MODERN COOKERY 



IN ALL ITS BRANCHES. 



MODERN COOKERY 



IN" ALL ITS BEANCHES: 



EMBRACING A SERIES OF PLAIN AND SIMPLE INSTRUCTIONS 

TO PRIVATE FAMILIES AND OTHERS, FOR THE CAREFUL 

AND JUDICIOUS PREPARATION OF EVERY VARIETY 

OF FOOD AS DRAWN FROM PRACTICAL 

OBSERVATION AND EXPERIENCE. 



BY MISS ELIZA ACTON, 



WITH DIRECTIONS FOR SETTING OUT AND ORNAMENTING THE TABLE, 
CARVING, RELATIVE DUTIES OF MISTRESS AND MAID, Etc., Etc. 



THE WHOLE CAREFULLY REVISED 



By MRS. S. J. HALE. 



EllustrattU foitlj numerous 35 n%xzb ittijs. 



PHILADELPHIA: 
PUBLISHED BY JOHN E. POTTER 

No. 617 SANSOM STREET. 
18G0. 



vA 









Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1860, hy 

JOHN E. POTTER, 

In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States, in and for the 
Eastern District of Pennsylvania. 



/ 50? 



PREFACE 



In history we find frequent mention of those who have at- 
tained high position in the State, through no other virtue than 
superior attainments in the Art of Cookery. No title seemed 
too noble, or emoluments too vast, to mark the bestower's sense 
of the value of a favorite and successful cook. Laying aside 
his ladle, he has ruffled it with the noblest of the land. Royal 
dames have delighted to do him honor ; while in the conclave 
of statesmen, or in the cabinet of sovereigns, he has been 
alike the accepted. aud well-approved confidant and adviser. 
In these more modern days, although we do not go to such 
extreme lengths in rewarding the professors of the culinary 
art, yet are we by no means insensible to its importance, or back- 
ward in our appreciation of its results. 

To be an able and successful cook should be the aim of 
every prudent housekeeper, for we know of no surer mark of 
sloth or negligence than an ill-served table. For if incapacity 
and indifference be allowed to exist in the kitchen, need we be 
surprised to find it in the parlor. Nor need we remind our 
fair readers how often an ill-cooked dish is the source, not only 
of bitter mortification, but of domestic discord and unhappi- 
ness. And is it not also equally true that many of the mental 
and physical derangements of both mind and body are fre- 
quently to be traced directly to the careless and imperfect pre- 
paration of our daily food. 

A would-be frugal housekeeper, actuated by the best motives, 
and really striving to "make both ends meet," is perplexed at 
her want of success, and is anxiously looking abroad for causes 
that she would find much nearer home. And what else is the 

/ ( xx 



XX11 PREFACE. 

reason but that, notwithstanding an expensive outlay in pro- 
visions, bad cooking spoils and renders uneatable a large 
proportion ; and that which should have graced her table, and 
delighted the palates of her household, becomes fit for naught 
else than food for pigs, and is therefore consigned to the al- 
ready overgorged swill tub. In how many of our households 
is not this notoriously the case ? If thus the art of Cooking ex- 
ercises so great an influence upon the health and happiness of 
the community, we are sure we need no longer dwell upon the 
importance, nor urge upon our readers the necessity of a closer 
study of this truly important branch of our domestic economy. 

This volume is offered to the experienced housekeeper as 
well as to the young beginner, as a faithful and intelligent 
counsellor and guide, in whom they can place the fullest confi- 
dence, and whose directions they can unhesitatingly follow. 
Every recipe having been fully tested, is now presented to 
them as the result of actual individual experience. They will 
be found to be practical, clear and simple, readily understood 
and as easily followed. So precise are the directions on every 
page, that'no novice, however unsophisticated, need be mis- 
led. Appended to each recipe is a summary of the different 
ingredients which it contains, with the exact proportions of 
each and the precise time necessary to dress the whole : thus 
showing at a glance its various requirements. 

The directions for boning poultry and game are entirely 
new, and also very exact ; while those pages devoted to explain- 
ing the somewhat rare accomplishment of carving, and how to 
set out a table, will, we trust, be found equally acceptable and 
instructive to our readers. 

To our country-women, then, throughout the land we dedi- 
cate this work in the fullest assurance that, in many households, 
it will become a valued and honored servant, always ready 
when needed, ever willing to advise; and whose counsels when 
faithfully followed will tend to add to the gratifications of 
many an American home. 



CONTENTS, 



CHAPTER L 



SOUPS. 



Introductory Remarks Page 37 

A few directions to the Cook 38 

To thicken Soups 39 

To frj bread to serve with Soup 40 

Sippets a la Reine ib. 

To make Nouilles, (an elegant substi- 
tute for Vermicelli) ib. 

Vegetable Vermicelli for Soups ib. 

Bouillon, or good Beef Broth, (French 

receipt) 41 

Clear, Pale, Gravy Soup, or Stock 42 

Another receipt for Gravy Soup 43 

Vermicelli Soup ; (Potage au Vermicelle) 44 
Semoulina Soup; (Soup a la Semoule) . . ib. 

Maccaroni Soup ib. 

Potage aux Nouilies, (or Taillerine 

Soup^ 45 

Sago Soup ib. 

Tapioca Soup ib. 

Rice Soup ib. 

White Rice Soup ib. 

Rice Flour Soup 46 

Stock for White Soups ib. 

Mutton-Stock for Soups ib. 

Common Carrot Soup 47 

Common Turnip Soup ib. 

A quickly made Turnip Soup ib. 



Potato Soup Page 48 

Apple Soup: (Soup a la Bourgnignon) ib. 

Veal Soup ! b - 

Westerfield White Soup ib. 

Mock Turtle, or Calf 's- head Soup 49 

Good Calf's head Soup (not expensive) 50 
White Oyster Soup (or Oyster Soup a 

la Reive) 51 

Brown Rabbit Soup lb - 

Pigeon Soup 52 

Pheasant or Chicken Soup i»- 

Partridge Soup 5 3 

Mullagatawnv Soup ID « 

To boil Rice for Mullagatawny Soup, 

or Curries • «|4 

Another receipt for boiling Rice 55 

An excellent Green Peas Soup lb. 

Green Peas Soup without meat ib. 

A cheap Green Peas Soup 56 

Rich Peas Soup 5 J 

Common Peas Soup >b. 

Peas Soup without meat 58 

Ox-tail Soup lb 

A cheap and good Stew Soup 59 

Soup in haste }}*• 

Veal or mutton Broth in. 

Milk Soup with Vermicelli...- ib. 



CHAPTER II. 



FISH. 



To choose Fish 60 

To clean Fish 61 

To keep Fish 62 

To sweeten tainted Fish ib. 

Brine for boiling Fish ib. 

To render boiled Fish firm 63 

To keep Fish hot for table ib. 

To boil a Turbot ib. 

Turbot a la Creme 64 

To broil Salmon ib. 

To bake Salmon. I ib. 

Pickle Salmon 65 

To boil Salmon ib. 

Crimped Salmon ib. 

Salmon a la St. Marcel 66 

To boil Cod Fish ib. 

Slices of Cod Fish fried 67 

6tewed Cod ib. 



Stewed Cod Fish in brown sauce 67 

To boil Salt Fish 68 

Salt Fish a la Maitre d'Hotel lb. 

To boil Cods' Sounds ib. 

To fry Cods' Sounds in batter ib. 

To make Chowder >b. 

To boil Rock-fish, Black-fish, and Sea- 

bass ®9 

To boil Halibut ib- 

Fillets of Halibut, Black-fish, &c ib. 

Baked Soles, Halibut and Carp 70 

Soles or Carp stewed in cream ib. 

To boil Sturgeon ib. 

To roast Sturgeon «»• 

To stew Sturgeon 71 

To fry Sturgeon • >b. 

To boil Whitings ; (French receipt). . . • ib 

Baked Whitings a la Francaise • • • lb 

(23) 



XXIV 



CONTENTS . 



To boil Mackerel 71 

To bake Mackerel 72 

Fried Mackerel ; (common French re- 
ceipt ib. 

Fillets of Mackerel ; (fried or boiled) . . ib. 

Boiled fillets of Mackerel 73 

Mackerel broiled whole ; (an excellent 
receipt) ■ ib. 

Mackerel stewed with Wine ; (very 
good) ib. 

Fillets of Mackerel stewed in Wine ; 
(excellent) , 74 

To boil Haddocks ib. 

Baked Haddocks ih. 

To boil plaice or flounders ib. 

To fry plaice or flounders 75 

To roast, bake, or broil Red Mullet ib. 

To boil Grey Mullet ib. 

To fry smelts and other small Fish ib. 

To bake a Shad 76 

To broil Shad ib. 

Shad, Touraine fashion; (jllose a la 

mode de Touraine) ib. 

Stewed Trout; (a good common receipt) ib. 



To fry Trout T) 

To bake Pike, or Trout ; (common re- 
ceipt) ib. 

To boil Perch ib 

To fry Perch or Tench 78 

To fry Eels ib. 

Boiled Eels ; (German receipt) ib. 

Eels ; (Cornish receipt) ib. 

To boil Lobsters 79 

Lobster fricasseed, or au Bechamel) ib. 

Buttered Crab, or Lobster ib. 

To stew Lobsters 80 

Lobster cold ib. 

To cook Terrapins ib. 

Oysters ib. 

To stew Oysters 81 

To scallop Oysters ib. 

Scalloped Oysters a la Heine 82 

Oyster Sausages ib. 

To fry Oysters ib. 

Oysters au Qratin ib. 

Broiled Oysters 83 

Anchovies fried in batter ib. 



CHAPTER III. 



GRAVIES. 



Introductory remarks 83 

To heighten the colour and the flavour 

of Gravies 84 

Shin of Beef Stock for Gravies 85 

Rich pale Veal Gravy, or Consommee . . ib. 

Rice deep-coloured Veal Gravy 86 

Good Beef or Veal Gravy : (English 

receipt) 87 

A rich English brown Gravy ib. 

Gravy for Venison ib. 

Sweet Sauce, or Gravy for Venison 88 



Espagnole (Spanish Sauce); a Gravy.. 88 

Gravy in haste ib 

Cheap Gravy for a Roast Fowl ib. 

Another cheap Gravy for a Fowl 89 

Q,uite common brown Gravy ib. 

Gravy or Sauce for a Goose ib. 

Orange Gravy, for Wild Fowl ib. 

MeatJellies for Pies or Sauces 90 

A cheaper meat Jelly ib. 

Glaze ib. 

Aspic, or clear Savoury Jelly 91 



CHAPTER IV. 



SAUCES. 



Introductory remarks 92 

To thicken Sauces i b. 

French Thickening, or Brown Roux . . . ib. 
White Roux, or French Thickening. ... 93 
Sauce Tournee, or pale thickened Gravy ib. 

Bechamel ib. 

Common Bechamel 94 

Rich melted Butter ib. 

Melted Butter ; (a good common receipt) ib. 

French melted Butter 95 

Norfolk Sauce, or rich melted butter 

without Flour ib. 

White melted Butter ib. 

Burnt Butter ib. 

Clarified Butter ib. 

Very good Egg Sauce 96 

Common Egg Sauce ib. 

Egg Sauce for Calf's Head ib. 

English White Sauce ib. 

Very common White Sauce ib. 

Dutch Sauce ib. 



Fricassee Sauce 

Bread Sauce 

Bread Sa uce with Onion 

Common Lobster Sauce 

Good Lobster Sauce 

Good Oyster Sauce 

Common Oyster Sauce 

Cream Sauce for Fish 

Sharp Mai tre d'Hotel Sauce 

French Maitre d'Hotel, or Steward's 

Sauce 

The Lady's Sauce, for Fish 

Genevese Sauce, or Sauce Gencvoise • ■ 

Sauce Robert 

Sauce Piquante 

Excellent Horseradish Sauce ; (to serve 

hot or cold with Roast Beef) 

Hot Horseradish Sauce; (to serve with 

boiled or stewed meat, or fish) 

Christopher North's own Sauce for 

many Meats 



CONTENTS. 



XXV 



Poor Man's Sauce ; (served with Tur- 
key Poults) 

Salad Dressing 

French Salad Dressing 

Our own Sauce for Salad or cold Meat 

Mayonnaise: (a very fine sauce for 
cold Meat, Poultry, Fish, or Salad) 

Fennel Sauce 

Parsley and Butter 

Gooseberry Sauce for Mackerel 

Common Sorrel Sauce 

Asparagus Sauce, for Lamb Chops. . . . 

Green Mint Sauce, for Roast Lamb. . . . 

Caper Sauce 

Brown Caper Sauce 

Caper Sauce for Fish 

Common Cucumber Sauce 

Another common Sauce of Cucumbers 

White Cucumber Sauce 

White Mushroom Sauce 

Another Mushroom Sauce 

Brown Mushroom Sauce 

Common Tomata Sauce 

A finer Tomata Sauce 

Boiled Apple Sauce 

Baked Apple Sauce 

Brown Apple Sauce 

White Onion Sauce 



Brown Onion Sauce 110 

Another brown Onion Sauce jb. 

Soubise ; (French receipt). ib. 

A fine Sauce, or Puree of Vegetable 

Marrow ib. 

Excellent Turnip, or Artichoke Sauce, 

for boiled Meat '. ib. 

Celery Sauce Ill 

Sweet Pudding Sauce ib. 

Punch Sauce for Sweet Puddings ib. 

Common Pudding Sauce 112 

A delicious German Pudding Sauce... ib. 
Parsley-green, for colouring Sauces. . . ib. 

To crisp Parsley ib. 

Fried Parsley ib. 

Tartar Mustard 113 

Another Tartar Mustard ib. 

Mild Mustard ib. 

Mustard the common way ib. 

French Batter for frying Vegetables, 

and for Fritters ib. 

To prepare Bread for frying Fish 114 

Browned Flour for thickening Soups 

and Gravies ib. 

Fried Bread-crumbs ib. 

Fried Bread, or Sippets of Bread for 

Garnishing ib. 

The Rajah's Sauce ib. 



CHAPTER V. 



STORE SAUCES. 



Observations 115 

Mushroom Catsup ib. 

Double Mushroom Catsup 316 

Compound or Cook's Catsup ib. 

Walnut Catsup ib. 

Another receipt for Walnut Catsup. . . 117 

Lemon Pickle, or Catsup ib. 

Pontac Catsup for Fish ib. 

Boiled Tomatas, or Tomata Catsup . . . ib. 

Epicurean Sauce 118 

Tarragon Vinegar ib. 

Green Mint Vinegar ib. 

Cucumber Vinegar ib. 

Celery Vinegar 1 19 



Eschalot, or Garlic Vinegar 119 

Eschalot Wine ib. 

Horse-radish Vinegar ib. 

Cayenne Vinegar ib. 

Lemon Brandy for flavouring Sweet 

Dishes 120 

Store-flavouring for Puddings, &c ib. 

Dried Mushrooms ib. 

Mushroom Powder ib 

Potato Flour; (Fecule de Pommes de 

Terre) . 121 

To make Flour of Rice ib. 

Powder of Savoury Herbs ib. 

The Doctor's Zest ib. 



CHAPTER VI. 



FORCEMEATS. 



General remarks 122 

Good common Forcemeat for Veal, 

Turkeys, &c, No. 1 ib. 

Another good common Forcemeat, 

No.2 123 

Superior Suet Foreemeat. No. 3 ib. 

Common Suet Forcemeat, No. 4 ib. 

Oyster Forcemeat, No. 5 124 

Finer Oyster Forcemeat, No. 6 ib. 

Mushroom Forcemeat, No. 7 ib. 

Onion and Sage stuffing for Geese, 

Ducks, &c, No. 8 125 



Cook's Forcemeat for Geese or Ducks, 

No. 9 125 

Forcemeat Balls for Mock Turtle Soups, 

No. 10 ib. 

Egg Balls. No. 11 126 

Brain Cakes, No. 12 ib 

Another receipt for Brain Cakes, No. 13 ib 
An excellent French Forcemeat, No. 14 127 
French Forcemeat, called Quenelles, 

No. 15 ib. 

Forcemeat for raised and other cold 

Pies, No. 16 128 

Panada ib 



XXVI 



CONTENTS . 



CHAPTER VII. 

OILING, ROASTING, ETC. 



To boil Meat 129 

Poelee 130 

A Blanc jb. 

Roasting 131 

Steaming 133 

Stewing jb. 

Broiling 135 

Frying 136 



Baking 13 

Braising 138 

Larding 139 

Boning 140 

To blanch Meat or Vegetables ib. 

Glazing ib. 

Toasting 1 141 

Browning with Salamander ib 



CHAPTER VIII. 



BEEF. 



To choose Beef 142 

To roast Sirloin or Ribs of Beef 143 

Roast Rump of Beef ib. 

To roast part of a Round of Beef ib. 

To roast a Fillet of Beef 144 

Roast Beef Steak ib. 

To broil Beef Steaks ib. 

Beef Steaks a la Francaise 145 

Beefsteaks a la Francaise; (another 

receipt) , ib. 

Stewed Beef Steak 146 

Fried Beef Steak ib, 

Beef Steak stewed in its own Gravy ib. 
Beef or Mutton Cake ; (very good). ... ib. 

German Stew 147 

Welsh Stew ib. 

A good English Stew ib. 

To stew Shin of Beef 148 

French Beef a la Mode ib. 

Stewed Sirloin of Beef 149 

To stew a Rump of Beef ib. 

Beef Palates 150 

Beef Palates; (Neapolitan mode) ib. 

Stewed Ox tails 151 

To salt and pickle Beef in various ways ib. 

To salt and boil a Round of Beef ib. 

Hamburgh Pickle for Beef, Hams, and 

Tongues 152 



Another Pickle for Tongues, Beef, and 
Hams 152 

Dutch, or Hung Beef ib. 

Collared Beef 153 

Collared Beef ; (another receipt) ib. 

A common receipt for Salting Beef ... ib. 

Spiced Round of Beef; (very highly 
flavoured) ib. 

Spiced Beef: (good and wholesome).. . 154 

A miniature Round of Beef 155 

Beef Roll ; (or Canellon de Basuf) ib. 

Minced Collops au Naturel ib. 

Savoury minced Collops 156 

Scotch minced Collops ib. 

Beef Tongues jb. 

Beef Tongues; (a Suffolk receipt) 157 

To dress Beef Tongues ib. 

To roast a Beef Heart ib. 

Beef Kidney ib. 

An excellent hash of cold Beef ib. 

A common hash of cold Beef or Mutton 158 

Breslaw of Beef; (good) ib. 

Norman Hash ib. 

French receipt for hashed Bouilli 159 

Baked minced Beef ib 

To boil Marrow bones ib. 

Baked Marrow-bones ib. 

Clarified Marrow for keeping ib. 



CHAPTER IX. 



VEAL. 



To choose Veal 

To take the hair from a Calf's Head 
with the skin on 

Boiled Calf's Head 

Calf's Head, the Warder's way; (an 
excellent receipt) 

Prepared Calf's Head; the Cook's re- 
ceipt) 

Hashed Calf's Head 

Cheap Hash of Calf's Head 

To dress cold Calf's Head, or Veal, a 
laMaitre d'Hotel; (English receipt) 

Calf's Head Brawn : (author's receipt) 

To roast a Fillet of Veal 

Boiled Fillet of Veal 

Roast Loin of Veal 

Boiled Loin of Veal 

Stewed Loin of Veal • .... 



1G0 



162 
ib. 
ib. 

163 

lt.il 
ib. 
165 
ib. 
ib. 
ib. ! 



Boiled Breast of Veal 166 

To roast a breast of Veal ib 

To bone a Shoulder of Veal, Mutton, 

or Lamb ib. 

Stewed Shoulder of Veal ; (English 

receipt) ib. 

Roast Neck of Veal 167 

Knuckle of Veal ere Ragout ib. 

Boiled Knuckle of Veal ib. 

Knuckle of Veal with Rice or Green 

Peas 168 

Bordyke Veal Cake ; (good) ib. 

Fricandeau or Veal ; (Entrie) ib. 

Spring stew of Veal 169 

Norman Harrico ib. 

Veal Cutlets 170 

Veal Cutlets, or Collops, a la Francaise ib. 
Scotch Collops 171 



CONTENTS. 



XXVJ1 



Veal Outlets, London fashion ; {Entree) 171 

Sweetbreads ; (simply dressed) ib. 

Sweetbread Cutlets ib. 

Stewed Calf's Feet ; (cheap and good). 172 

Calf's Liver fried ib. 

To roast Calf's Liver 173 



Blanquette of Veal, or Lamb, with 

Mushrooms ; (Entree) 173 

Minced Veal 174 

Minced Veal with Oysters ib. 

Veal Sydney : (good) ib. 

Fricasseed Veal 175 



CHAPTER X. 



MUTTON AND LAMB. 



To choose Mutton 175 

To roast a Haunch of Mutton 176 

Roast Saddle of Mutton ib. 

To roast a Leg of Mutton 177 

Superior receipt for roast Leg of Mutton ib. 

Leg of Mutton boned and forced ib. 

Mock Venison 178 

To boil a Leg of Mutton 179 

Cold roast Leg of Mutton ib. 

Fillet of Mutton ib. 

To roast a Loin of Mutton 180 

To dress a Loin of Mutton like Venison ib. 

To roast a Shoulder of Mutton ib. 

Spiced Shoulder of Mutton in. 

Forced Shoulder of Mutton 181 

Mutton Cutlets stewed in their own 
gravy ; (good) ib. 



To broil Mutton Cutlets 181 

China Chilo 182 

A good Family Stew of Mutton ib. 

An Irish Stew 183 

Cutlets of cold Mutton ib. 

Mutton Kidneys a la Francaise ib. 

Broiled Mutton Kidneys. .'. 184 

Oxford receipt for Mutton Kidneys. ... ib. 

To roast a Quarter of Lamb ib. 

Roast Saddle of Lamb 185 

Roast Loin of Lamb ib. 

Stewed Leg of Lamb, with white sauce ib. 

Loin of Lamb stewed in butter ib. 

Lamb or Mutton Cutlets, with Soubise 

sauce; (Entrie) ib. 

Lamb Cutlets in their own gravy 186 

Cutlets of Cold Lamb ib. 



CHAPTER XL 



PORK 



To choose Pork 186 

To melt Lard 187 

To preserve un melted Lard for many 

months ib. 

To roast a Sucking Pig 188 

Baked Pi? ib. 

Pig a la Tartar e 189 

Sucking Pin, en blanquetles ; (Entree) . ib. 

To roast Pork i b. 

To mast a Saddle of Pork 190 

To roast Spare-rib ib. 

To broil or fry Pork Cutlets ib. 

Cobbett's receipt for curinj; Bacon ib. 

A genuine Yorkshire receipt for curing 

Hams and Bacon 191 

Kentish mode of cutting up and curing 

a Pig 192 

French Bacon for larding ib. 

To pickle Cheeks of Bacon and Hams ib. 



Hams superior to Westphalia 193 

Hams; (Bordvke receipt) ib. 

To boil a Ham 194 

French receipt for boiling a Ham ib. 

To bake a Ham 195 

To boil Bacon ib. 

Bacon broiled or fried ib. 

Dressed Rashers of Bacon 196 

Tonbridge Brawn ib. 

Italian Pork Cheese ib. 

Sausage-meat Cake, or Pain de Pore 

Frais) 197 

Sausages ib. 

Kentish Sausage-meat ib. 

Excellent Sausages 198 

Pounded Sausage-meat ; (very good) . . ib. 

Boiled Sausages ib. 

Sausages and Chestnuts ; (French) .... ib. 
Truffled Sausages 199 



CHAPTER XII. 



POULTRY. 



To choose Poultry 199 

To bone a Fowl or Turkey without 

opening it 200 

Another mode of boning a Fowl or 

Turkey • ib. 

To bone Fowls for Fricassees, Curries, 

and Pies 201 

To roast a Turkey ib. 

To boil a Turkey 202 

Turkey boneo and forced 203 

Turkey a la Flamande, or dinde poudree 204 
To roast a Goose ib. 



To roast a green Goose 205 

To roast a Fowl ib. 

Roast Fowl ; (,a French receipt) 206 

To roast a Guinea Fowl ib. 

Fowl a la Carlsfort ; (Entree) ib. 

Boiled Fowls ib 

To broil a Chicken or Fowl 207 

Fricasseed Fowls or Chickens; (Entree) ib 

Chicken Cutlets ; (Entree) 203 

Cutlets of Fowls, Partridges, or Pigeons ib. 
Fried Chicken a la Malabar ; (Entree) b. 
Hashed Fowl: (Entree) W9 



XXV111 



CONTENTS 



Minced Fowl ; (French receipt) 20?) 

Cold Fowls, en Friture 210 

Scallops of Fowl, au Bechamel ib. 

Grillade of cold Fowls ib. 

Cold Fowls ; (the housekeeper's re- 
ceipt ; a supper dish) ib. 



Fowls a la Mayonnaise 210 

To roast Ducks 211 

Stewed Duck ; {Entree) ib. 

To roast Pigeons 212 

Boiled Pigeons ib. 

To stew Pigeons ib. 



CHAPTER XIII. 



G A ME, 



To choose Game 212 

To roast a Haunch of Venison 213 

To stew a Shoulder of Venison 214 

To hash Venison ib. 

To roast a Hare 215 

To roast a Rabbit 216 

To boil Rabbits ib. 

Fried Rabbit ib. 

To roast Partridges ib. 

Boiled Partridges 217 

Partridges with Mushrooms ib. 



Broiled Partridge ; (breakfast dish). ... 218 
Broiled Partridge ; (French receipt) ... ib. 

To roast Wild Pigeons ib. 

To roast small Birds ib. 

Reed Birds ib. 

A salmi of Moor Fowl, Pheasants, or 

Partridges 219 

To roast Canvass-back Ducks ib. 

To roast Wild Ducks ib. 

To roast Woodcocks or Snipes 220 

To roast the Pintail, or Sea Pheasant ib. 



CHAPTER XIV. 

CURRIES, POTTED MEATS, &c. 



Remarks on Curries, &c 221 

Mr. Arnott's Currie Powder ib. 

Mr. Arnott's Currie 222 

A Bengal Currie ib. 

A common Indian Currie 223 

Selim's Curries ; (Captain White's) 224 

Curried Eggs ib. 

Curried Sweetbreads ib. 



Curried Oysters 225 

Curried Gravy jh. 

Potted Meats 226 

Potted Ham ib. 

Potted Chicken, Partridge, or Pheasant 227 

Potted Ox Tongue ib. 

Lobster Butter 223 

Potted Mushrooms ib. 



CHAPTER XV. 



VEGETABLES. 



Observations on Vegetables 228 

To clear Vegetables from insects 229 

To boil Vegetables green ib. 

To boil Potatoes; (genuine Irish re- 
ceipt) i b. 

Another way to boil Potatoes 230 

To boil new Potatoes ib. 

New Potatoes in Butter ib. 

To boil Potatoes ; (Captain Kater's 
receipt) ib. 

To roast or bake Potatoes i b. 

Scooped Potatoes ; (Entremets) 231 

Fried Potatoes ; (Entremets) ib. 

Mashed Potatoes ib. 

English Potato Balls 232 

Potato Boulettes, (good) ; Entremets ... ib. 

Potato Rissoles ; (French) ib. 

Potatoes al a Maitre d 'Hotel ib. 

Potatoes a la Creme 233 

Spinach, (Entremets); French receipt. . ib. 

Spinach ; (common English mode) ib. 

Another common English receipt for 
Spi n ach i b. 

Boiled Turnip Radishes ib. 

Boiled Leeks 234 

Stewed Lettuces ib. 

To boil Asparagus ib. 

Asparagus points dressed like Peas. ... ib. 



To boil Green Peas 235 

Green Peas a la Francaise, or French 

fashion; (Entremets) ... ib. 

Green Peas with cream : (Entremets). . ib. 

To boil French Beans 236 

French Beans a la Francaise ib. 

An excellent receipt for French Beans 

a la Francaise ib. 

To boil Windsor Beans 237 

Dressed Cucumbers , ib. 

Mandrang, or Mandram ; (West India 

receipt) ib 

Another receipt for Mandram ib 

Stewed Cucumber; (English mode) ... ib 

Cucumbers a la Poulette 238 

Cucumbers a la Creme ib. 

Fried Cucumbers, to serve in common 

stews, hashes, and minces ibt 

Melon ib. 

Salad 239 

French Salad ib 

Suffolk Salad ib. 

Yorkshire Ploughman's Salad ib. 

To boil Cauliflowers ib. 

Cauliflowers; (French receipt) 240 

Brocoli ib 

To boil Artichokes ib. 

To boil winter Squash ib. 



CONTENTS 



XXIX 



Vegetable Marrow 240 

Tomatas en Salade 241 

Roast Tomatas ib. 

Stewed Tomatas ib. 

Forced Tomatas ; (English receipt) ib. 

Forced Tomatas ; (French receipt; .... ib. 

Puree of Tomatas 242 

Mushrooms au Beurre ib. 

Potted Mushrooms 243 

Mushroom Toast ....." ib. 

To boil Sprouts, Cabbages, Savoys, &c. ib. 

Stewed Cabbage 244 

To boil Turnips ib. 

To mash Turnips ib] 

Turnips in white sauce; (Entremets). . 245 

Turnips stewed in butter ib. 

Turnips in gravy i b. 



To boil carrots 245 

Sweet Carrots ; (Entremets) 246 

Carrots au Beurre, or Buttered Carrots ib. 

To boil Parsneps jb 

Fried Parsneps jb. 

Jerusalem Artichokes ib! 

To fry Jerusalem Artichokes 247 

Haricots Blancs jb 

To boil Beet Root ib.' 

To bake Beet Root 248 

Stewed Beet Root jb. 

To stew Red Cabbage ib! 

Boiled Celery jb. 

Stewed Celery jb! 

Stewed Onions 249 

To fry Onions jb # 

To boil Onions ib! 



CHAPTER XVI. 

PASTRY. 



Introductory remarks 250 

To glaze, or ice Pastry ib. 

Feuilletage, or fine French puff" Paste ib. 

Very good light Paste 251 

English Puff Paste 252 

Cream Crust ; (very good) ib. 

Pate Brisee, or French Crust ib. 

Flead Crust ib. 

Common Suet Crust for Pies 253 

Very superior Suet Crust ib. 

Very rich short Crust for Tarts ib. 

Brioche Paste ib. 

Modern Potato Pastry 254 

Modern Chicken Pie 255 

A common Chicken Pie 256 

Pigeon Pie ib. 

Beefsteak Pie ib! 

Mutton Pie 257 

Raised Pies ib. 

A Vol-au-Vent ; (Entree) 258 

A Vol-au-Vent of Fruit; (Entremets). 259 
Vol-au Vent a la Creme ; (Entremets) . ib. 

Oyster Patties ; (Entree) . . 260 

Good Chicken Patties ; (Entree) ib. 

Excellent Meat Rolls ib. 

Patties, Tartlets, and small VoJs-au- 
Vents 261 



Another receipt for Tartlets 

A Sefton, or Veal Custard 

Apple Cake, or German Tart 

Tourte Meringuee, or Tart with royal 

icing 

A good Apple Tart 

Barberry Tart 

Almond Paste 

Tartlets of Almond Paste 

Mincemeat ; (Author's receipt) 

Superlative Mincemeat \ . . 

Mince Pies ; (Entremets) 

Mince Pies Royal 

The Monitor's Tart, or Tourte a laJudd 

Pudding Pies ; (Entremets) 

Pudding Pies : (a commoner kind) 

Common Pudding Pies 

Cocoa-Nut Cheesecakes ; (Entremets). . 
Lemon Cheesecakes, Christ Church 

College receipt; (Entremets) 

Common Lemon Tartlets 

Creme Patissiere, or Pastry Cream 

Small Vols-au-Vents a la Howitt 

Pastry Sandwiches 

Fanchonettes: (Entremets) 

Currant-Jelly Tartlets, or Custards . . . 
Ramakins aVTJde, or Sefton-Fancies . 



ib. 
263 

ib. 

ib. 
264 

ib. 
265 

ib. 

ib. 

ib. 
266 

ib. 

ib. 

ib. 

267 
ib. 
ib. 
268 
ib. 
ib. 
ib. 
ib. 



CHAPTER XVII. 

BOILED PUDDINGS. 



General directions 269 

A ley for washing Pudding cloths 270 

To clean Currants for Puddings, &c. . . ib. 

To mix Batter for Puddings 271 

Suet Crust for Meat or Fruit Pudding. . ib 

Butter Crust for Puddings ib. 

Small Beefsteak Pudding 272 

Ruth Pinch's Beefsteak Pudding ib 

Superlative Beef Pudding ib 

Mutton Pudding ib' 

Partridge Puddi ng ib! 

Common Batter Pudding 273 

Another Batter Pudding ib 

Another Suet Pudding 274 

Batter Fruit Pudding ib. 

o 



A cheap Suet Pudding 274 

Apple, Currant, Cherry, or other fresh 

Fruit Pudding ib. 

A common Apple Pudding ib! 

The Publisher's Pudding 275 

Small Custard Pudding jb. 

Common Custard Pudding 276 

German Pudding and Sauce ib. 

Miss Bremer's Pudding jb! 

Very.good Raisin Pudding 277 

The elegant Economist's Pudding. .... ib. 

Pudding a la Scoones 278 

Cottage Christmas Pudding ib. 

Small light Plum Pudding ib. 

Another Pudding, light and wholesome ib. 



XXX 



CONTENTS 



Vegetable Plum Pudding 278 

An excellent small Mincemeat Pudding 279 

The Author's Christmas Pudding ib. 

Rolled Pudding ib. 

Bread Pudding ib. 

Brown Bread Pudding 280 

A good boiled Rice Pudding ib. 

Cheap Rice Pudding 281 

Tomata Pudding or Dumplins ib. 



Fashionable Apple Dumplins 281 

Orange Snow Balls ib. 

Apple Snow Balls 282 

Light Currant Dumplins ib. 

Lemon Dumplins ib. 

Sweet boiled Patties; (good) ib. 

Boiled Rice to serve with stewed Fruit, 
Preserve, or Raspberry Vinegar . . ib. 



CHAPTER XVIII. 

BAKED PUDDINGS. 



Introductory remarks 283 

The Printer's Pudding ib. 

Almond Pudding 284 

An excellent Lemon Pudding ib. 

Another Lemon Pudding ib. 

Lemon Suet Pudding ib. 

Bakewell Pudding 285 

The elegant Economist's Pudding ib. 

Rich Bread and Butter Pudding 286 

A common Bread and Butter Pudding, ib. 

A good baked Bread Pudding ib. 

Another baked Bread Pudding ib. 

Sutherland, or Castle Puddings 287 

Madeline Puddings; (to be served cold) ib. 
A French Rice Pudding, or Gateau de 

Riz ib. 

A common Rice Pudding 288 

Richer Rice Pudding ib. 

Rice Pudding Meringue 289 

Good ground Rice Pudding ib. 

Common ground Rice Pudding 290 

Potato Pudding ib. 



A richer Potato Pudding - ib. 

An excellent Sponge-cake Pudding ib. 

The Duchess's Pudding ib. 

Baked Apple Pudding, or Custard 291 

A common baked Apple Pudding ib. 

Essex Pudding ; (cheap and good) ib. 

Dutch Custard, or baked Raspberry 

Puddi ng ib. 

Vermicelli Pudding 292 

Small Cocoa-nut Pudding ib. 

Good Yorkshire Pudding ib. 

Common Yorkshire Pudding 293 

Normandy Pudding ib. 

Damson and Rice Pudding ib. 

Barberry and Rice Pudding ib. 

Apple and Rice Pudding ib. 

Common Raisin Pudding 294 

A richer Raisin Pudding ib. 

Poor Author's Pudding ib. 

Pudding a la Paysanne ib. 

Indian Pudding ib. 

Baked Hasty Pudding 295 



CHAPTER XIX. 

SOUFFLES, OMLETS, &c. 



Observations on Omlets, Fritters, &c. . 295 

A common Omlet 296 

An Omlette Soufflee ib 

Souffles jb. 

A Fondu 297 

Kentish Fritters 298 

Plain common Fritters ib. 

Pancakes ib' 

Fritters of Cake and Pudding 299 

Mincemeat Fritters jb. 

Venetian Fritters; (very good) ib. 

Fritters of Spring Fruit ib. 

Apple, Peach, Apricot, or Orange Frit- 
ters ib. 



Potato Fritters; {Entremets) 300 

Lemon Fritters; {Entremets) ib. 

Cannelons; {Entremets) ib. 

Croquettes of Rice ; {Entremets) ib. 

Finer Croquettes of Rice 301 

Rissoles ; {Entree) ib. 

Very Savoury Rissoles; {Entree) ib. 

Rissoles of Fish : {Entree) ib. 

To boil Pipe Maccaroni 302 

Ribband Maccaroni ib. 

Dressed Maccaroni ib. 

Maccaroni a la Reine 303 

Forced Eggs for Salad ib. 

Forced Eggs, or Eggs en surprise ib. 



CHAPTER XX. 

SWEET DISHES, OR ENTREMETS. 



To prepare Calf's Feet Stock 304 

To clarify Calf 's Feet Stock ib. 

To clarify Isinglass 305 

Spinach Green, for colouring Sweet 

Dishes, Confectionary, or Soups . . ib. 

Prepared Apple or Quince Juice ib. 

Cocoa-nut flavoured Milk: (for sweet 

dishes. &e) 306 



Compotes of Fruit 306 

Compote of Peaches 307 

Another receipt for stewed Peaches ... 308 
Stewed Barberries, or Compote d'Epine 

finette ib. 

Another Compote of Barberries for 

Dessert ib. 

Gateau de Pommes ifa 



CONTENTS. 



XXXI 



Gateau of mixed Fruits ; (good) 309 

Calf's Feet Jelly : (Entremets) ib. 

Another receipt for Calf's Feet Jelly. . 310 

Apple Calf a Feet Jelly ib. 

Orange Calf's Feet Jelly 311 

Orange Isinglass Jelly ib. 

Oranges filled with Jelly 312 

Lemon Calf's Feet Jelly ib. 

Constantia Jelly 313 

Strawberry Isinglass Jelly ib. 

Fancy Jellies 314 

Queen Mab's Pudding; (an elegant 

summer dish) ib. 

Nesselrode Cream 315 

An excellent Trifle ib. 

Swiss Cream, or Trifle, (very good) 316 

Chantilly Basket filled with whipped 

Cream and fresh Strawberries ib. 

Creme Meri nguee 317 

Lemon Cream, made without Cream. . ib. 

Very good Lemon Creams ib. 

Fruit Creams, and Italian Creams 318 

Very superior whipped Syllabubs ib. 

Good common Blamange, or Blanc 

Manger; (Author's receipt) 319 

Richer Blamange ib. 

Jaumange, or Jaune Manger ; some- 
times called Dutch Flummery ib. 



Extremely good Strawberry Blamanage 319 

Quince Blamange ; (delicious 320 

Uuince Blamage, with Almond Cream ib. 
Apricot Blamange, or Creme Parisienne ib. 
Blamange Rubane, or striped Blamange 321 

An Apple Hedgehog, or Suedoise ib. 

Imperial Goose berry- fool 322 

Very good old-fashioned boiled Custard ib. 

Rich boiled Custard ib. 

The Queen's Custard 323 

Currant Custard ib. 

Quince or Apple Custards ib. 

Chocolate Custards ib. 

Common baked Custard 324 

A finer baked Custard ib. 

French Custards ib. 

German Puffs 325 

Raspberry Puffs ib. 

An Apple Charlotte, or Charlotte des 

Pommes ib. 

Marmalade for the Charlotte 326 

A Charlotte a la Parisienne ib. 

Pommes au Buerre ; (buttered apples) ib. 

Suedoise of Peaches 327 

Aroce Doce, or Sweet Rice a la Portu- 

gaise 328 

Bermuda Witches ib. 

Strengthening Blamange ib. 



CHAPTER XXI. 



PRESERVES. 



Introductory remarks 329 

A few General Rules and Directions 
for Preserving 331 

To extract the juice of Plums for Jelly ib. 

To weigh the juice of Fruit 332 

Green Gooseberry Jelly ib. 

Green Gooseberry Jam ; (firm and of 
good colour) i b. 

To dry green Gooseberries ib. 

Green Gooseberries for Tarts 333 

Green Gooseberry Solid ib. 

Red Gooseberry Jam ib. 

Gooseberries dried without Sugar ib. 

Cherry Jam 334 

To dry Cherries with Sugar ib. 

Dried Cherries ; (superior receipt) ib. 

Cherries dried without Sugar 335 

Morella Cherries ib. 

Common Cherry Cheese ib. 

Cherry Paste ; (French) : .. . ib. 

Strawberry Jam ib. 

Strawberry Jelly 336 

Another very fine Strawberry Jelly ... ib. 

To preserve Strawberries or Raspber- 
ries for Creams or Ices, without 
boiling ib. 

Raspberry Jam 337 

Good Red or White Raspberry Jam ... ib. 

Raspberry Jelly for flavouring Creams ib. 

Another Raspberry Jelly; (very good), ib 

Green Currant Jam 338 

Red Currant Jelly : ib. 

Superlative Red Currant Jelly; (Nor- 
man receipt) ib. 

French Currant Jelly ib. 

Delicious Red Currant Jam 339 

Very tine White Currant Jelly ib. 



White Currant Jam 339 

Currant Paste ib. 

Black Currant Jelly 340 

Nursery Preserve ib. 

Another good common Preserve ib. 

A good Melange, or mixed Preserve. . • ib. 

Greengage Jam, or Marmalade 341 

Preserve of the Magnum Bonum, or 
Mogul Plum ib. 

To dry or preserve Mogul Plums in 

syrup ib. 

Mussel Plum Cheese and Jeily ib. 

To dry Apricots ; (a quick and easy 
method) 342 

Peach Jam, or Marmalade ib. 

To preserve, or to dry Peaches or Nec- 
tarines; (an easy and excellent 
receipt) ib. 

Damson Jam ; (very good) 343 

Damson Jelly ib. 

Damson solid ; (good) ib. 

Excellent Damson Cheese ib. 

Grape Jelly 344 

English Gnava ib. 

To dry Plums; (an easy method) 345 

To bottle Fruit for winter use ib. 

Apple Jelly ib. 

Exceedingly fine Apple Jelly 346 

Quince Jelly 347 

Qui nee Marmalade i b. 

Quince and Apple Marmalade 348 

Quince Paste ib. 

Jelly of Siberian Crabs ib. 

To preserve Barberries in bunches ib. 

Barberry Jelly 349 

Barberry Jam ; (a jrood receipt) ib. 

Barberry Jam ; (second receipt) ib. 



xxxn 



CONTENTS. 



Very common Barberry Jam 350 I Orange Marmalade 350 

Superior Barberry Jelly, and Manna- Genuine Scotch Marmalade 351 

lade ib. I Orange conserve for Puddings ib. 



CHAPTER XXII. 



PICKLES. 



Observations on Fickles 352 

To pickle Cherries ib. 

To pickle Gherkins or Cucumbers ib. 

Pickles 353 

To pickle Nasturtiums ib. 

To pickle Peaches ib. 

To pickle Mushrooms 354 

Mushrooms in brine, for winter use. . . ib. 



To pickle Walnuts 355 

To pickle Beet-root ib. 

Pickled Eschalots ib. 

Pickled Onions 356 

To pickle Lemons and Limes ; (excel- 
lent) ib. 

To pickle Barberries and Siberian 
Crabs ib. 



CHAPTER XXIII. 



CAKES. 



General remarks on Cakes 357 

To blanch Almonds 358 

To pound Almonds '. ib. 

To reduce Almonds to a Paste ib. 

To colour Almonds for Cakes or Pastry ib. 

To prepare Butter for rich Cakes 359 

To whisk Eggs for light rich Cakes ib. 

Orange-flower Macaroons; (delicious) ib. 

Almond Macaroons ib. 

Imperials ; (not very rich) 360 

Very good small rich Cakes ib. 

Almond Rocher ib. 

Bitter Almond Biscuits ib. 

Fine Almond Cake 361 

Pound Cake ib. 

Rice Cake ib. 

White Cake . 362 

A good Sponge Cake ib. 

A smaller Sponge Cake ; (very good). . ib. 
A Sponge Cake; (good and quickly 
made) ib. 



A good Madeira Cake .--. ib. 

Banbury Cakes .* 363 

Meringues ib. 

Thick, light Gingerbread 364 

Good common Gingerbread ib. 

Richer Gingerbread ib. 

Cocoa-nut Gingerbread ib. 

Cheap Ginger Biscuits 365 

A good Soda Cake ib. 

Cinnamon, or Lemon Cakes ib. 

Oueen Cakes 366 

A good light Bun ib. 

Cocoa-nut Biscuit ; (excellent) ib. 

Threadneedle-street Biscuits 367 

A Galette ib. 

Cornish heavy Cake. ib. 

Fleed, or Flead Cakes ib. 

Good Captain's Biscuits ib. 

The Colonel's Biscuits 368 

Aunt Charlotte's Biscuits ib. 



CHAPTER XXIV. 

CONFECTIONARY. 



To clarify Sugar 368 

To boil Sugar from Syrup to Candy, or 

to Caramel 369 

Barley Sugar ib. 

Ginger Candy 370 



Orange-flower Candy 37; 

Orange-flower Candy ; (another receipt) ib. 

Palace-Bonbons 371 

Everton Totne jb. 

Toflie; (another way) ib. 



CHAPTER XXV. 

DESSERT-DISHE! 



Melange of Fruit 371 

Fruit en Chemise, or Perle 372 

Peach Salad ib. 

Oransre Salad ib. 

Compote of Oranges ; (a Hebrew dish) ib. 

Orange warmed ib. 

Normandy Pippins 373 



Stewed Pruneaux de Tours, or Tours 

dried Plums 373 

Baked Compote of Apples ib. 

To bake Pears ib. 

Stewed Pears ib 

Boiled Chestnuts 374 

Roast. Chestnuts ib 



CONTENTS. 



XXX1H 



CHAPTER XXVI. 

SYRUPS, LIQUEURS, ETC. 



Strawberry Vinegar of delicious flavour 374 

Strawberry Acid Royal 375 

Verv fine Raspberry Vinegar ib. 

Oxford Punch 37(5 

Oxford receipt for Bishop ib. 

To Mull Wine, (an excellent French 

receipt) 377 

A birth-day Syllabub ib. 

Cuirasscau, or Curacoa ; (an excellent 

and wholesome Liqueur) ib. 

Mint Julep; (an American receipt) . . 378 



Delicious Milk Lemonade 378 

Excellent Portable Lemonade ib. 

Excellent. Barley Water; (poor Xury's 

receipt) ib. 

Raisin Wine; (which, if long kept, 

reallv resembles foreign) ib. 

Excellent Elderberry Wine 379 

Very good Gi nger VVi ne i b. 

Excellent Orange Wine ib. 

Currant Wine 380 

To clean Bottles in large numbers ib. 



CHAPTER XXVIL 

COFFEE, CHOCOLATE, ETC. 



To roast Coffee 381 

To make Coffee 382 

To make French breakfast Coffee ib. 

To boil Coffee and refine it ib. 



Burnt Coffee ; (in France vulgarly called 

Gloria) 383 

To make Choco'ate ; (French receipt), ib. 
To make Tea ib. 



CHAPTER XXVIII. 

BREAD. 



To purify Yeast for Bread or Cakes ... 384 

The Oven ib. 

To make Bread ib. 

Bordyke Bread ; (Author's receipt) 385 

Brown Bread 386 

Potato Bread ib. 

Dyspepsia Bread ib. 

Rye and Indian Bread 387 



Geneva Rolls. 

Rusks 

Crusts to serve with Cheese. 
Good Captains' Biscuits 
Breakfast Batter Cakes 



Tea Cakes 388 

Muffins 389 

Wheat Muffins ib. 

Rice Muffins ib. 

Rice Cakes ib. 

Buckwheat Cakes ib. 

Flannel Cakes ib. 

Yeast 390 

Milk Yeast i!». 

Hard Yeast ib. 

Potato Yeast 3'H 

Prepared Yeast, (Dr. Lettsom's) ib. 



CHAPTER XXIX. 

AMERICAN MODE OF COOKING INDIAN CORN, PUMPKINS, ETC. 



Indian Cake, or Bannock 391 

Indian Corn, or Maize Pudding baked. 393 



Boiled Maize Pudding 
Pumpkin and Squash Pie.. 
Carrot Pies .... 
American Custard Pudding 
American Plum Pudding .. 
American Apple Pudding . 



ib. 

ib. 
393 
sb. 
ib. 
ib. 



Bird's Nest Pudding 393 

Hasty Pudding ib. 

Dry-bread ib. 

Another sort of Brewis 3 4 

To preserve Cheese iii. 

American Mince meat ib. 

American Souse ib. 

Pork and Beans ib. 



CHAPTER XXX. 

DIRECTIONS FOR CARVING 



Garnishing and setting out a Table ... 395 

Fish. ib. 

Turbot,&c ib. 

A Cod's Head and Shoulders ib. 

Salmon ib. 



Soles 396 

Mackerel ib. 

Eels, Whiting Jack, &c ib. 

Aitch bone or Beef ib. 

A Round, or Buttock, and flank of Beef ib. 



XXXIV 



CONTENTS. 



A Brisket of Beef 396 

Sirloin of Beef ib. 

Fillet of Veal, and Breast of Veal. .. . 397 

Necks and Loins ib. 

Calf's Head ih. 

A \ez of Mutton, &c ib. 

A saddle or collar of Mutton ib. 

Shoulder of Mutton ib. 

Haunch of Venison or Mutton 308 

Fore-quarter of Lamb ib. 

Ham ib. 



Tongue 398 

A sucking Pig ib. 

A Fowl ib. 

A Pheasant 399 

Partridges and Pigeon ib. 

Goose or Duck ib. 

A Turkey ib. 

Hare 400 

Rabbits ib. 

Garnishes ib. 

Setting out a Table 401 



APPENDIX. 



Relative Duties of Mistress and Maid 

What mcst always be done, and what most never be done. 



402 
404 



MODERN COOKERY. 



CHAPTER I. 

SOUPS. 

INTRODUCTORY REMARKS. 



The art of preparing good, wholesome, palatable soups, ivithout great 
expense, which is so well understood in France, and in other countries 
where they form part of the daily food of all classes of the people, has 
hitherto been very much neglected in England and America : it is one, 
therefore, to which we would particularly direct the attention of the 
cook, who will find, we think, on a careful perusal of the present chap- 
ter, that it presents no difficulties which a common degree of care and 
skill will not easily overcome. The reader, who may be desirous to 
excel in it, should study the instructions given under the article Bouil- 
lon, where the principles of this branch of cookery are fully explained. 

The spices and other condiments used to give flavour to soups and 
gravies should be so nicely proportioned that none predominate nor 
overpower the rest ; and this delicate blending of savours is perhaps 
the most difficult part of a cook's task : it is an art, moreover, not 
easily acquired, except by long experience, unless great attention be 
combined with some natural refinement of the palate. 

A zealous servant will take all possible pains on her first entrance 
into a family, to ascertain the particular tastes of the individuals she 
serves ; and will be guided entirely by them in the preparation of her 
dishes, however much they may be opposed to her own ideas, or to her 
previous practice. 

Exceeding cleanliness, both in her personal habits and appearance, 
and in every department of her work, is so essential in a cook, that no 
degree of skill, nor any other good qualities which she may possess, can 
ever atone for the want of it. The very idea of a dirty cook is so 
revolting, that few people will be induced to tolerate the reality ; and 
we would therefore most strongly urge all* employed in the culinary 
department of a household, who may be anxious for their own success 

* An active, cleanly, and attentive kitchen-maid will generally become an admirable 
cook 

(37) 



38 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. I. 

in life, or solicitous to obtain the respect and approbation of their em- 
ployers, to strive to the utmost against any tendency to slovenliness of 
which they may be conscious, or which may be pointed out to them by 
others. 




Modern Copper Soup or Stock-Pot. 



A FEW DIRECTIONS TO THE COOK. 



In whatever vessel soup is boiled, see that it be perfectly clean, and 
let the inside of the cover and the rim be equally so. Wash the meat, 
and prepare the vegetables with great nicety before they are laid into 
it; and be careful to keep it always closely shut when it is on the fire. 
Never, on any account, set the soup by in it, but strain it off at once 
into a clean pan ; and fill the stock-pot immediately with water : pursue 
the same plan with all stewpans and saucepans directly they are 
emptied. 

Skim the soup thoroughly wh^n it first begins to boil, or it can never 
afterwards be rendered clear ; throw in some salt, which will assist to 
bring the scum to the surface, and when it has all been taken off, add 
the herbs and vegetables ; for if not long stewed in the soup, their 
flavour will prevail too strongly. Remember, that the trimmings, and 
especially the bones of fresh meat, the necks of poultry, the liquor in 
which a joint has been boiled, and the shank-bones of mutton, are all 
excellent additions to the stock-pot, and should be carefully reserved 
for it. 

Let the soup heat gradually over a moderate fire, and after it has 
been well skimmed, draw it to the side of the stove and keep it sim- 
mering softly, but without ceasing, until it is done ; for on this, as will 
hereafter be shown, its excellence principally depends. Every good 
cook understands perfectly the difference produced by the fast boiling, 
or the gentle stewing of soups and gravies, and will adhere strictly to 
the latter method. 

Pour boiling water, in small quantities at first, to the meat and 
vegetables of which the soup is to be made when they have been fried 
or browned ; but otherwise, add cold water to the meat. 

Unless precise orders to the contrary have been given, onions, escha- 
lots, and garlic, should be used for seasoning with great moderation 
always ; for not only are they very offensive to many eaters, but to per- 
sons of delicate habit their effects are sometimes extremely prejudi- 
cial ; and it is only in coarse cookery that their flavour is allowed ever 
strongly to prevail. 



CHAP. I.] SOUPS. 39 

A small proportion of sugar, about an ounce to the gallon, will very 
much improve the flavour of gravy-stock, and of all rich brown soups ; 
it may be added also to some others with advantage ; and for this, direc- 
tions will be given in the proper places. 

Two ounces of salt may be allowed for each gallon of soup or broth 
in which large quantities of vegetables are stewed ; but an ounce and 
a half will be sufficient for such as contain few or none ; it is always 
easy to add more if needful, but oversalting in the first instance is a 
fault for which there is no remedy but that of increasing the propor- 
tions of all the other ingredients, and stewing the whole afresh, which 
occasions needless trouble and expense, even when time will admit of 
its being done. 

As no particle of fat should be seen floating on your soups when they 
are sent to table, it is desirable that the stock should be made the day 
before it is wanted, that, it may become quite cold, when the fat may be 
entirely cleared off without difficulty. 

When cayenne pepper is not mixed with rice-flour, or with any other 
thickening, grind it down with the back of a spoon, and stir a little 
liquid to it before it is thrown into the stewpan, as it is apt to remain 
in lumps, and to occasion great irritation of the throat when swal- 
lowed so. 

Serve, not only soups and sauces, but all your dishes, as hot as pos- 
sible. 

TO THICKEN SOUPS. 

Except for white soups, to which arrow-root is, we think, more appro- 
priate, we prefer, to all other ingredients generally used for this purpose, 
the finest and freshest rice-flour, which after being passed through a 
lawn-sieve, should be thoroughly blended with the salt, pounded spices, 
catsup, or wine, required to finish the flavouring of the soup. Sufficient 
liquid should be added to it very gradually to render it of the consis- 
tency of batter, and it should also be perfectly smooth ; to keep it so, it 
should be moistened sparingly at first, and beaten with the back of a 
spoon until every lump has disappeared. The soup should boil quickly 
when the thickening is stirred into it, and be simmered for ten minutes 
afterwards. From an ounce and a half to two ounces of rice-flour will 
thicken sufficiently a quart of soup. 

Instead of this, arrow-root or the condiment known by the name of 
tnus les mois, which greatly resembles it, or potato-flour, or the French 
thickening called roux (see page 92) may be used in the following 
proportions: — Two and a half ounces of either of the first three, to four 
pints and a half of soup ; to be mixed gradually with a little cold stock 
or water, stirred into the boiling soup, and simmered for a minute. 

Six ounces of flour with seven of butter,* will be required to thicken 
a tureen of soup ; as much as half a pound is sometimes used ; these 
must be added by degrees and carefully stirred round in the soup until 
smoothly blended with it, or they will remain in lumps. 

All the ingredients used for soups should be fresh, and of good quality, 
particularly Italian pastes of every kind (maccaroni, vermicelli, &c), 

* We would recommend any other thickening in preference to this unwholesome 
mixture 



40 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. I, 

as they contract, by long keeping, a peculiarly unpleasant, musty 
flavour. 

Onions, freed from the outer skin, dried gradually to a deep brown, 
in a slow oven, and flattened, will keep for almost any length of time, 
and are extremely useful for heightening the colour and flavour of 
broths and gravies.* 

TO FRY BREAD TO SERVE WITH SOUP. 

Cut some slices a quarter-inch thick, from a stale loaf; pare off the 
crust, and divide the bread into dice, or cut it with a deep paste-cutter 
into any other form. For half a pound of bread put two ounces of the 
best butter into a frying-pan, and when it is quite melted, add the 
bread ; keep it turned, over a gentle fire, until it is equally coloured to 
a very pale brown, then drain it from the butter, and dry it on a soft 
cloth, or a sheet of paper placed before a clear fire, upon a dish, or on 
a sieve reversed. 

SIPPETS A LA REINE. 

Having cut the bread as for common sippets, spread it on a dish, and 
pour over it a few spoonsful of thin cream, or of good milk ; let it soak 
for an hour, then fry it in fresh butter of a delicate brown, drain, and 
serve the sippets hot. 

to make nouilles ; (an elegant substitute for Vermicelli.) 

Wet, with the yolks of four eggs, as much fine, dry, sifted flour, 
as will make them into a firm, but very smooth paste. Roll it out as 
thin as possible, and cut it into bands of about an inch and a quarter in 
width. Dust them lightly with flour, and place four of them one upon 
the other. Cut them obliquely in the finest possible strips ; separate 
them with the point of a knife, and spread them on writing paper, so 
that they may dry a little before they are used. Drop them gradually 
into the boiling soup, and in ten minutes they will be done. 

Various other forms may be given to this paste at will. It may be 
divided into a sort of riband maccaroni ; or stamped with small confec- 
tionary cutters into different shapes. 

vegetable vermicelli; (vegetables cut very fine for Soups.) 

Cut the carrots into inch lengths, then pare them round and round 
in ribbons of equal thickness, till the inside is reached ; next cut these 
ribands into straws, or very small strips ; celery is prepared in the sanr* 
way ; and turnips also are first pared into ribands, then sliced into 
strips: these last require less boiling than the carrots, and attention 
must be paid to this, for if broken, the whole would have a bad appear- 
ance in soup. The safer plan is to boil each vegetable separately, till 
tolerably tender, in a little pale broth (in water, if this be not at hand), 
to drain them well, and put them into the soup, which should be clear, 
only a few minutes before it is dished. For cutting them small, in 
other forms, the proper instruments will be found at the hardware-shops. 

* The fourth part of one of these dried onions (des oignojis brides), of moderate size 
i* sufficient for a tureen of 90iip. 



CHAP. I.] SOUPS. 



41 




•ouillon, {the Common Soup of Fiance ; Cheap, and very Wholesome.) 

This soup, or broth, as we should 
perhaps designate it in England., is 
made once or twice in the week, in 
every family of respectability in France ; 
and by the poorer classes as often as 
their means will enable them to sub- 
stitute it for the vegetable or maigre 
soups, on which they are more com- 
monly obliged to subsist. It is served 
usually on the first day, with slices of 
French Pot-au- Feu; or, un toasted bread soaked in it; on the 

Earthen boup Pot. , . . „ . , .., 

second, it is generally varied with ver- 
micelli, rice, or semoulina. The ingredients are, of course, often other- 
wise proportioned than as we have given them, and more or less meat 
is allowed, according to the taste or circumstances of the persons for 
whom the bouillon is prepared ; but the process of making it is always 
the same, and is thus described (rather learnedly) by one of the most 
skilful cooks in Europe : " The stock or soup-pot of the French artizan," 
says Monsieur Careme, " supplies his principal nourishment ; and it is 
thus managed by his wife, who, without the slightest knowledge of 
chemistry, conducts the process in a truly scientific manner. She first 
lays the meat into her earthen stock-pot, and pours cold water to it in 
the proportion of about two quarts to three pounds of the beef;* she 
then places it by the side of the fire, where it slowly becomes hot; and 
as it does so, the heat enlarges the fibre of the meat, dissolves the 
gelatinous substances which it contains, allows the albumen (or the 
muscular part which produces the scum) to disengage itself, and rise 
to the surface, and the ozmazome (which is the most savoury part of 
the meat) to be diffused through the broth. Thus, from the simple 
■ circumstance of boiling it in the gentlest manner, a relishing and nutri- 
tious soup will be obtained, and a dish of tender and palatable meat, 
but if the pot be placed and kept over a quick fire, the albumen will 
coagulate, harden the meat, prevent the water from penetrating it, and 
the osmazome from disengaging itself; the result will be a broth with- 
out flavour or goodness, and a tough, dry bit of meat." 

It must be observed in addition, that as the meat of which the 
bouillon is made, is almost invariably sent to table, a part of the rump, 
the rnouse-buttock, or the leg-of-mutton piece of beef, should be selected 
for it; and the simmering should be continued only until this is perfectly 
tender. When the object is simply to make good, pure-flavoured beef 
broth, part of the shin, or leg-, with a pound or two of the neck, will 
best answer the purpose. When the bouilli (that, is to say, the beef 
which is boiled in the soup) is to be served, bind it into a good shape, 
add to it a calf's foot, if easily procurable, as this much improves the 
quality of the bouillon; pour cold water to it in the proportion men- 
tioned above, and proceed as Monsieur Careme directs, to heat the soup 
slowly by the side' of the fire ; remove carefully the Head of scum, 

* This is a large proportion of meat for the family of a French artizan ; a pound to 
the quart would be nearer the reality: hut it is not the refuse-meat which would bo 
purchase I hy person- of the t>aiiie rank in England for running lirnth. 



42 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. I. 

which will gather on the surface, before the boiling commences, and 
continue the skimming at intervals, for about twenty minutes longer, 
pouring in once or twice a little cold water. Next, add salt in the pro- 
portion of two ounces to the gallon ; this will cause a little more scum 
to rise, — clear it quite off, and throw in three or four turnips, as many- 
carrots, half a head of celery, four or five young leeks, an onion stuck 
with six or eight cloves, a large half tea-spoonful of pepper-corns, and 
a bunch of savoury herbs. Let the whole stew very softly, without 
ceasing, from four hours and a half to six hours, according to the 
quantity: the beef in that time will be extremely tender, but not over- 
done. , It will be excellent eating, if properly managed, and might 
often, we think, be substituted with great advantage for the hard, half- 
boiled, salted beef, so often seen at an English table. It should be 
served with a couple of cabbages, which have been first boiled in the 
usual way, then pressed very dry, and stewed for about ten minutes in 
a little of the broth, and seasoned with pepper and salt. The other 
vegetables from the bouillon may be laid round it or not, at choice. 
The soup, if served on the same day, must be strained, well cleared 
from fat, and sent to table with fried or toasted bread, unless the con- 
tinental mode of putting slices or crusts of untoasted bread into the 
tureen, and soaking them for ten minutes in a ladleful or two of the 
bouillon, be, from custom, preferred. 

Beef, 8 to 9 lbs. ; water, 6 quarts ; salt, 3 ozs. (more if needed) ; 
carrots, 4 to 6 ; turnips, 4 or 5 ; celery, one small head ; leeks, 4 to 6 ; 
one onion, stuck with 6 cloves; pepper-corns, one small tea-spoonful; 
large bunch of savoury herbs : (calf's foot, if convenient) to simmer 
five to six hours. 

Obs. 1. — This broth forms in France the foundation of all richer 
soups and gravies. Poured on fresh meat (a portion of which should be 
veal), instead of water, it makes at once an excellent consommee, or 
strong jellied stock. If properly managed, it is very clear and pale 
and with an additional weight of beef, and some spoonsful of glaze, 
may easily be converted into an amber-coloured gravy-soup, suited to 
modern taste. 

Obs. 2.— It is a common practice abroad to boil poultry, pigeons, and 
even game in the pot-au-feu, or soup-pot. They should be properly 
trussed, stewed in the broth just long enough to render them tender, 
and served immediately, when ready, with a good sauce. A small 
ham, if well soaked, washed exceedingly clean, and freed entirely from 
any rusty, or blackened parts, laid with the beef when the water is first 
added to* it, and boiled from three hours and a half to four hours, in the 
bouillon, is very superior in flavour to those cooked in water only, and 
infinitely improves the soup, which cannot, however, so well be eaten, 
until the following day, when all the fat can easily be taken from it : it 
would, of course, require no salt. 

CLEAR, PALE, GRAVY-SOUP OR STOCK. 

Rub a deep stewpan or soup-pot with butter, and lay into it three 
nuarters of a pound of ham freed entirely from fat, skin, and rust, four 
pounds of leg or neck of veal, and the same weight of lean beef, all 
cut into thick slices; set it over a clear and rather brisk fire, until the 
meat is of a fine amber-colour : it must be often moved, and closely 



CHAP. I.] SOUPS. 43 

watched, that it may not stick to the pan, nor burn. When it is equally- 
browned, lay the bones upon it, and pour in gradually four quarts of 
boiling- water. Take off the scum carefully as it rises, and throw in a 
pint of cold water at intervals, to bring it quickly to the surface. When 
no more appears, add two ounces of salt, two onions, two large carrots, 
two turnips, one head of celery, a two-ounce faggot of savoury herbs, a 
dozen cloves, half a tea-spoonful of whole white pepper, and two large 
blades of mace. Let the soup boil gently from five hours and a half, to 
six hours and a half; then strain it through a very clean, fine cloth, laid 
in a hair sieve. When it is perfectly cold, remove every particle of fat 
from the top; and, in taking out the soup, leave the sediment un- 
touched ; heat in a clean pan the quantity required for table, add salt to 
it if needed, and a few drops of Chili or of cayenne vinegar. Harvey's 
sauce, or very fine mushroom catsup, may be substituted for these. 
When thus prepared, the soup is ready to serve : it should be accom- 
panied by pale sippets of fried bread, or sippets d la reine. Rice, mac- 
caroni in lengths or rings, vermicelli, or nouilles, may in turn be used, 
to vary it; but they must always be boiled apart till tender, in broth, or 
water, and well drained before they are slipped into it. The addition 
of young vegetables, too, and especially of asparagus, will convert it 
into an elegant spring-soup; but they, likewise, must be separately 
cooked. 

ANOTHER RECEIPT FOR GRAVY-SOUP. 

Instead of browning the meat in its own juices, put it with the onions 
and carrots, into a deep stewpan, with a quarter-pint of bouillon; set it 
over a brisk fire at first, and when the broth is somewhat reduced, let 
it boil gently until it has taken a fine colour and forms a glaze (or jelly) 
at the bottom of the stewpan ; then pour to it the proper quantity of 
water, and finish the soup by the preceding receipt.* 

Obs. — A rich, old-fashioned English brown gravy-soup may be made 
with beef only. It should be cut from the bones, dredged with flour, sea- 
soned with pepper and salt, and fried a clear brown ; then stewed for 
six hours, if the quantity be large, with a pint of water to each pound 
of meat, and vegetables as above, except onions, of which four mode- 
rate-sized ones, also fried, are to be added to every three quarts of the 
soup, which, after it has been strained, and cleared from fat, may be 
thickened with six ounces of fresh butter, worked up very smoothly 
with five of flour. In twenty minutes afterwards, a table-spoonful of 
the best soy, half a pint of sherry, and a little cayenne, may be added 
to the soup, which will then be ready to serve. 

* The juices of meat, drawn out with a small portion of liquid, as directed here, may 
easily be reduced to the consistency in which they form what is called glaze; for par- 
ticulars of this, see Chapter III. The best method, though perhaps not the easiest, of 
making the clear, amber-coloured stock, is to pour a ladleful or two of pale, but strong 
beef-broth to the veal, and to boil it briskly until well reduced, thrusting a knife, when 
this is done, into the meat, to let the juices escape; then to proceed more slowly and 
cautiously as the liquid approaches the state in which it would burn. It must be 
allowed to take a dark amber-colour only, and the meat must be turned, and often 
moved in it. When the desired point is reached, pour in more boiling broth, and let 
the pan remain oft' the fire for a few minutes, to detach and melt the glaze; then shake 
it well round before the boiling is continued. A certain quantity of deeply coloured 
glaze, made apart, and stirred into strong, clear, pale stock, would produce the desired 
effect of this, with much less trouble. 



44 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. I. 

vermicelli soup ; (Potage au Vermicelle.) 

Drop very lightly, and by degrees, six ounces of vermicelli, broken 
rather small, into three quarts of boiling bouillon, or clear gravy soup; 
let it simmer half an hour* over a gentle fire, and stir it often. This is 
the common French mode of making vermicelli soup, and we can 
recommend it as a particularly good one for family use. In England it 
is customary to soak, or to blanch the vermicelli, then to drain it well, 
and to stew it for a shorter time in the soup : the quantity, also, must 
be reduced quite two ounces, to suit modern taste. 

Bouillon, or gravy-soup, 3 quarts ; vermicelli, 6 ozs. ; 30 minutes. 
Or, soup, 3 quarts; vermicelli, 4 ozs.; blanched in boiling water, 5 
minutes; stewed in soup, 10 to 15 minutes. 

semoulina soup ; (Soupe a la Semoule.) 

Semoulina is used in the same way as the vermicelli. It should be 
dropped very lightly and by degrees into the boiling soup, which should 
be stirred all the time it is being added, and very frequently afterwards; 
indeed, it should scarcely be quitted for a moment until it is ready for 
table. Skim it carefully, and let it simmer from twenty to five and 
twenty minutes. This, when the semoulina can be procured good and 
fresh, is, to our taste, an excellent soup. 

Soup, 3 quarts ; semoulina, 6 ozs. : nearly, or quite 25 minutes. 

MACCARONI SOUP. 

Throw four ounces of fine freshf mellow maccaroni into a pan of 
fast-boiling water, with about an ounce of fresh butter, and a small 
onion stuck with three or four cloves.;}: When it has swelled to its full 
size, and become tender, drain it well, and slip it into a couple of quarts 
of clear gravy-soup; let it simmer for a few minutes, when it will be 
ready for table. Observe, that the maccaroni should be boiled quite 
tender ; but it should by no means be allowed to burst, nor to become 
pulpy. Serve grated Parmesan cheese with it. 

Maccaroni, 4 ozs. ; butter, 1 oz. ; 1 small onion ; 5 cloves ; three- 
quarters of an hour or more. In soup, 5 to 10 minutes. 

Obs. — The maccaroni for soups should always be either broken into 
short lengths before it is boiled, or sliced quickly afterwards into small 
rings not more than the sixth of an inch thick, unless the cut mac- 
caroni be used; this requires but ten minutes boiling, and should be 
dropped into the soup in the same way as vermicelli. Four ounces 
of it will be sufficient for two quarts of stock. It may be added 
to white soup after having been previously boiled in water or veal- 
broth, and well drained from it: it lias a rather elegant appearance 
in clear gravy-soup, but should have a boil in water before it is thrown 
into it. 

* When of very fine quality, the vermicelli will usually require less boiling than 
this. 

t We must here repeat our warning against the use of long-kept maccaroni, ver- 
micelli, or semoulina ; as when stale, they will render any dish iuto which they are in 
troduced, quite untit for table. 

1 For White Soups, omit the onion 



chap, i.] sours. 45 

POTAGE AUX NOUILLES, OR TAILLERINE SOUP. 

Make into nouille paste the yolks of four fresh eggs, and when ready 
cut, drop it gradually into five pints of boiling- soup; keep this gently 
stirred tor ten minutes, skim it well, and serve it quickly. This is a 
less common, and a more delicately flavoured soup than the vermicelli, 
provided always that the nouilles be made with really fresh eggs. The 
same paste may be cut into very small diamond squares, stars, or any 
other form, then left to dry a little, and boiled in the soup until swelled 
to its full size, and tender. 

Nouille paste of four eggs; soup, 5 pints: 10 minutes. 

SAGO SOUP. 

Wash in several waters, and float off the dirt from six ounces of 
sago; put it into three quarts of good cold gravy-stock, and let it stew 
gently from half to three quarters of an hour; stir it occasionally, that 
it may not burn nor stick to the stew-pan. A quarter-ounce more of 
sago to each pint of liquid, will thicken it to the consistency of peas- 
soup. It may be flavoured with half a wineglassful of Harvey's sauce, 
as much cayenne as it may need, the juice of half a lemon, an ounce 
of sugar, and two glasses of sherry ; or these may be omitted, and good 
beef-broth may be substituted for the gravy-soup, for a simple family 
dinner, or for an invalid. 

Sago, 6 ozs. ; soup, 3 quarts : 30 to 45 minutes. 

TAPIOCA SOUP. 

This is made in the same manner, and with the same proportions as 
the preceding soup, but it must be simmered from fifty to sixty minutes. 

RICE SOUP. 

In France this soup is served well thickened with the rice, which is 
stewed in it for upwards of an hour and a half, and makes thus, even 
with the common bouillon of the country, an excellent winter potage. 
Pick, and wipe in a dry cloth, eight ounces of the best rice ; add it, in 
small portions, to four quarts of hot soup, of which the boiling should 
not be checked as it is thrown in. When a clear soup is wanted, wash 
the rice, give it five minutes' boil in water, drain it well, throw it into 
as much boiling stock or well-flavoured broth as will keep it covered 
till done, and simmer it very softly until the grains are tender, but still 
separate ; drain it, slip it into the soup, and let it remain in it a few 
minutes before it is served, but without simmering. When stewed in 
the stock, it may be put at once, after being drained, into the tureen, 
and the clear gravy-soup may be poured to it. 

An easy English mode of making rice-soup is this: put the rice into 
plenty of cold water ; when it boils, throw in a small quantity of salt, 
let it simmer ten minutes, drain it well, throw it into the boiling soup, 
and simmer it gently from ten to filleen minutes longer; some rice 
will be tender in half that time. An extra quantity of stock must be 
allowed for the reduction of this soup, which is always considerable. 

WHITE RICE SOUP. 

Throw four ounces of well-washed rice into boiling water, and in 
five minutes after pour it into a sieve, drain it well, and put it into a 



40 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. I. 

couple of quarts of good white, boiling- stock; let it stew till tender; 
season the soup with salt, cayenne, and pounded mace; stir to it three- 
quarters of a pint of very rich cream, give it one boil, and serve it 
quickly. 

Rice, 4 ozs. : boiled 5 minutes. Soup, 2 quarts: three-quarters of an 
hour or more. Seasoning of salt, mace, and cayenne ; cream, three- 
quarters of a pint : 1 minute. 

RICE-FLOUR SOUP. 

Mix with a little cold broth, eight ounces of fine rice-flour, and pour 
it into a couple of quarts of fast-boiling broth, or gravy-soup. Add 
to it mace, and cayenne, with a little salt, if needful. It will require 
but ten minutes' boiling. 

Soup, 2 quarts ; rice-flour, 8 ozs. : 10 minutes. 

Obs. — Two dessert-spoonsful of currie-powder, and the strained juice 
of half a moderate-sized lemon, will greatly improve this soup : it may 
also be converted into a good common white soup (if it be made of veal 
stock), by the addition of three-quarters of a pint of thick cream to the 
rice. 

STOCK FOR WHITE SOUP. 

Though a knuckle of veal is usually preferred for this stock, part of 
the neck will, on an emergency, answer very well. Whichever joint 
be chosen, let it be thoroughly washed, once or twice divided, and laid 
into a delicately clean soup-pot, or well-tinned large stout iron sauce- 
pan, upon a pound of lean ham, freed entirely from skin and fat, and 
cut into thick sMces. Should very rich soup be wished for, pour in a 
pint only of cold water for each pound of meat, but otherwise a pint 
and a half may be allowed. When the soup has been thoroughly 
cleared from scum, which should be carefully taken off, from the time 
of its first beginning to boil, throw in an ounce of salt to the gallon 
(more can be added afterwards, if needed), two mild onions, a moderate- 
sized head of celery, two carrots, a small tea-spoonful of whole white 
pepper, and two blades of mace ; and let the soup stew very softly from 
five to six hours, if the quantity be large : it should simmer until the 
meat falls from the bones. The skin of a calf s-head, a calf s-foot, or an 
old fowl, may always be added to this stock, with good effect. Strain 
it into a clean deep pan, and keep it in a cool place till wanted for use. 

Lean ham, 1 lb. ; veal, 7 lbs. ; water, 4 to 6 quarts ; salt, 1^ oz. 
(more, if needed) ; onions, 2 ; celery, 1 head ; carrots, 2 ; pepper-corns, 
1 tea-spoonful ; mace, 2 blades : five to six hours. 

MUTTON-STOCK FOR SOUPS. 

Equal parts of beef and mutton, with the addition of a small portion of 
ham, or of very lean bacon, make excellent stock, especially for winter- 
soups. The necks of fowls, the bones of an undressed calf's-head, or 
of any uncooked joint, may be added to it with advantage. According 
to the quality of soup desired, pour from a pint to a pint and a half of 
cold water to each pound of meat ; and after the liquor has been well- 
skimmed on its beginning to boil, throw in an ounce and a half of salt 
to the gallon, two small heads of celery, three mild, middling-sized 
onions, three well-flavoured turnips, as many carrots, a faggot of thyme 
and parsley, half a tea-spoonful of white pepper-corns, twelve cloves, 



CHAP. I.] SOUPS. 47 

and a large blade of mace. Draw the soup-pot to the side of the fire, 
and boil the stock as gently as possible for about six hours ; then strain, 
and set it by for use. Be particularly careful to clear it entirely from 
fat before it is prepared for table. One-third of beef or veal, with 1 wo 
of mutton, will make very good soup ; or mutton only will answer the 
purpose quite well upon occasion. 

Beef, 4 lbs. ; mutton, 4 lbs. (or, beef or veal, from 2 to 3 lbs. ; mut- 
ton, from 5 to 6 lbs.) ; water, 1 gallon, to 1^ ; salt, 1^ oz. ; mild turnips, 
1 lb. ; onions, 6 ozs. ; carrots, | lb. ; celery, 6 to 8 ozs. ; 1 bunch of 
herbs ; pepper-corns, h tea-spoonful ; cloves, 12 ; mace, 1 large blade : 
six hours. 

Obs. — Salt should be used sparingly at first for stock in which any 
portion of ham is boiled; allowance should also be made for its reduc- 
tion, in case of its being required for gravy. 

COMMON CARROT SOUP. 

The easiest way of making this soup is to boil some carrots very 
tender in water slightly salted; then to pound them extremely fine, and 
to mix gradually with them boiling gravy-soup (or bouillon), in the pro- 
portion of a quart to twelve ounces of the carrot. The soup should 
then be passed through a strainer, seasoned with salt and cayenne, and 
served very hot, with fried bread in a separate dish. If only the red 
outsides of the carrot be used, the colour of the soup will be very 
bright : they should be weighed after they are pounded. Turnip-soup 
may also be made in the same manner. 

Soup, 2 quarts; pounded carrot, 1^ lb. ; salt, cayenne : 5 minutes. 

COMMON TURNIP SOUP. 

Wash and wipe the turnips, pare and weigh them ; allow a pound 
and a half for every quart of soup. Cut them in slices about a quarter 
of an inch thick. Melt four ounces of butter in a clean stew-pan, and 
put in the turnips before it begins to boil ; stew them gently for three 
quarters of an hour, taking care that they shall not brown. Then have 
the proper quantity of soup ready boiling, pour it to them, and let them 
simmer in it for three quarters of an hour. Pulp the whole through a 
coarse sieve or soup-strainer, put it again on the fire, keep it stirred until 
it has boiled three minutes, take off the scum, add salt and pepper, if 
required, and serve it very hot. 

Turnips, 3 lbs. ; butter, 4 ozs. : % hour. Soup, 2 quarts : £ hour. 
Last time : 3 minutes. 

A QUICKLY MADE TURNIP SOUP. 

Pare and slice into three pints of veal or mutton-stock, or of gooa 
broth, three pounds of young mild turnips ; stew them gently from 
twenty-five to thirty minutes, or until they can be reduced quite to 
pulp; press the whole through a sieve, add to it another quart of stock, 
a seasoning of salt, white pepper, and one lump of sugar ; simmer it a 
minute or two, skim, and serve it. A large white onion, when the 
flavour is liked, may be sliced and stewed with the turnips. A little 
cream improves mucli the colour of this soup. 

Turnips, 3 lbs. ; soup, 5 pints : 25 to 30 minutes. 



48 



MODERN COOKERY. [CHAI\ I. 



POTATO SOUP. 

Mash to a smooth paste three pounds of good mealy potatoes, that 
aave been steamed, or boiled very dry ; mix with them by degrees, two 
quarts of boiling broth, pass the soup through a strainer, set it again on 
the fire, add pepper and salt, and let it boil five minutes. Take off 
entirely the black scum that will rise upon it, and serve it very hot with 
fried or toasted bread. Where the flavour is approved, two ounces of 
onions, minced and fried a light brown, may be added to the soup, and 
stewed in it tor ten minutes- before it is sent to table. 

Potatoes, 3 lbs. ; broth, 2 quarts: 5 minutes. (With onions, 2 ozs. :) 
10 minutes. 

apple soup; (Soupe a, la Bourguignon.) 

Clear the fat from five pints of good mutton-broth, bouillon, or shin 
of beef stock, and strain it through a fine sieve; add to it, when it boils, 
a pound and a half of good pudding apples, and stew them down in it 
very softly, to a smooth pulp ; press the whole through a strainer, add 
a small teaspoonful of powdered ginger, and plenty of pepper, simmer 
the soup for a couple of minutes, skim, and serve it very hot, accompa- 
nied by a dish of rice, boiled as for curries. 

Broth, 5 pints; apples, l£ lb.: 25 to 40 minutes. Ginger, 1 tea- 
spoonful ; pepper, £ teaspoonful : 2 minutes. 

VEAL SOUP. 

Take four pounds of a knuckle of veal, break, and cut it small, put 
it into a stew-pan with two gallons of water; when it boils, skim it, 
and let it simmer till reduced to two quarts ; strain, and season it with 
white pepper, salt, a little mace, a dessertspoonful of lemon juice, and 
return it to the pot, adding two onions finely minced, a head of celery, 
and a turnip cut in small pieces. Let it simmer about half an hour 
longer, thicken it with a large tablespoonful of flour kneaded with an 
ounce of butter. 

WESTERFIELD WHITE SOUP. 

Break the bone of a knuckle of veal in one or two places, and put it 
on to stew, with three quarts of cold water to five pounds of meat; 
when ft has been quite cleared from scum, add to it an ounce and a 
half of salt, two ounces and a half of onions, twenty corns of white 
pepper, and two or three blades of mace, with a little cayenne pepper. 
When the soup is reduced one-third by slow simmering, strain it off, 
and set it by till cold; then free it carefully from the fat and sediment, 
and heat it again in a very clean stew-pan. Mix with it when it boils, 
a pint of thick cream smoothly blended with an ounce of good arrow- 
root, two ounces of very fresh vermicelli previously boiled tender in 
water slightly salted and well drained from it, and an ounce and a half 
of almonds blanched, and cut in strips;* give it one minute's simmer, 
and serve it immediately, with a French roll in the tureen. 

* We have given this receipt without any variation from the original, as the soup 
made exactly by it was much approved by the guests of the hospitable country gentle- 
man, at whose elegant table it was served often for many years; but we would rather 
recommend that the almonds should be pounded, or merely blanched, cut in spikes, 
stuck into the crumb of a French roll, and put into the tureen, simply to give flavour 
to the soup. 



CHAP. 1.] SOUPS. 49 

Veal, 5 lbs. ; water, 3 quarts ; salt, 1 h oz. ; onions, 2^ ozs. ; 20 
corns white pepper ; 2 large blades of mace : 5 hours or more. Cream, 
1 pint ; almonds, H oz. ; vermicelli, 1 oz : 1 minute. Little thicken- 
ing, if needed. 

Obs. — Cream should always be boiled for a few minutes before it is 
added to any soup. The yolks of two or three very fresh eggs beaten 
well, and mixed with half a pint of the boiling soup, may be stirred into 
the whole, after it is taken from the fire. Some persons put the eggs 
into the tureen, and add the soup to them by degrees ; but this is not so 
well. If a superior white soup to this be wanted, put three quarts of 
water to seven pounds of veal, and half a pound of the lean part of a 
ham ; or, instead of water, use very clear, weak, veal broth. Grated 
Parmesan cheese should be handed round the table when white or mac- 
caroni soup is served. 

MOCK TURTLE, OR CALF'S HEAD SOUP. 

After having taken out the brain and washed and soaked the head 
well, pour to it nine quarts of cold water, bring it gently to boil, skim 
it very clean, boil it, if large, an hour and a half, lift it out, and put into 
the liquor eight pounds of neck of beef, lightly browned in a little fresh 
butter, with three or four thick slices, or a knuckle of lean ham, four 
large onions sliced, three heads of celery, three large carrots, a large 
bunch of sweet herbs, the rind of a lemon pared very thin, adesertspoou- 
ful of pepper-corns, two ounces of salt, and after the meat has been 
taken from the head, all the bones and fragments. Stew these gently 
from seven to eight hours, then strain off the stock, and set it into a very 
cool place, that the fat may become firm enough on the top to be cleared 
off easily. The skin and fat of the head should be taken off together 
and divided into strips of two or three inches in length, and one in 
width; the tongue may be cut in the same manner, or into dice." Put 
the stock, of which there ought to be between four and five quarts, into 
a large soup or stew pot ; thicken it when it boils with four ounces of 
fresh butter* mixed with an equal weight of fine dry flour, a half-tea- 
spoonful of pounded mace, and a third as much of cayenne (it is better 
to use these sparingly at first, and to add more should the soup require 
it, after it has boiled some little time) ; pour in half a pint of sherry, stir 
the whole together until it has simmered for a minute or two, then put 
in the head, and let it stew gently from an hour and a quarter to an hour 
and a half; stir it often, and clear it perfectly from scum. Slip into it, 
just before it is ready for table, three dozens of small forcemeat-balls ; 
the brain cut into dice (after having been well soaked, scalded,f and 
freed from the film), dipped into beaten yolk of egg, then into the finest 
crumbs mixed with salt, white pepper, a little grated nutmeg, fine lemon- 
rind, and chopped parsley fried a fine brown, well drained and dried ; 
and as many egg-balls, the size of a small marble, as the yolks of four 
eggs will supply. (See Chapter VI.) This quantity will be sufficient 
for two large tureens of soup ; when the whole is not w r anted for table 

* When the butter is considered unobjectionable, the flour, without it, may be mixed 
to the smoothest batter possible, with a little cold stock or water, and stirred briskly 
into the boiling soup: the spices should be blended with it. 

tThe brain should be blanched, that is, thrown into boiling water with a little salt in 
it, and boiled from five to eight minutes ; then lifted out, and laid into cold water for 
a quarter of an hour; it must be wiped very dry before it is fried. 



50 MODERN COOKERY. [ CHAP. I. 

at the same time, it is better to add wine only to so much as will be re- 
quired for immediate consumption, or if it cannot conveniently be di- 
vided, to heat the wine in a small saucepan with a little of the soup, to 
turn it into the tureen, and then to mix it with the remainder by stirring 
the whole gently after the tureen is filled. Some persons simply put 
in the cold wine just before the soup is dished, but this is not so 
well. 

Whole calf's head with skin on, boiled 1^ hour. Stock : neck of 
beef, browned in butter, 8 lbs. ; lean of ham, ^ to | lb. (or a knuckle) ; 
onions, 4; large carrots, 3; heads of celery, 3; large bunch sweet 
herbs ; salt, 2 ozs. (as much more to be added when the soup is made 
as will season it sufficiently) ; thin rind, 1 lemon ; peppercorns, 1 des- 
sertspoonful ; bones and trimmings of head : 8 hours. Soup: stock, 4 
to 5 quarts; flour and butter for thickening, of each 4 ozs. ; pounded 
mace, half-teaspoonful ; cayenne, third as much (more of each as 
needed); sherry, half pint: 2 to 3 minutes. Flesh of head and tongue, 
nearly or quite, 2 lbs. : li to 1^ hour. Forcemeat-balls, 36; the brain 
cut and fried ; egg-balls, 16 to 24. 

Obs.— When the brain is not blanched it must be cut thinner in the 
form of small cakes, or it will not be done through by the time it has 
taken enough colour : it may be altogether omitted without much detri- 
ment to the soup, and will make an excellent corner dish, if gently 
stewed in white gravy for half an hour, and served with it thickened 
with cream and arrow-root, to the consistency of good white sauce, then 
rather highly seasoned, and mixed with plenty of chopped parsley, and 
some lemon-juice. 

good calf's head soup ; (not expensive.") 
Boil down from six to seven pounds of the thick part of a shin of 
beef with a little lean ham, or a slice of hung beef trimmed free from 
the smoky edges, should either of these last be at hand, in five quarts 
of water, till reduced nearly half, with the addition, when it first be- 
gins to stew, of an ounce of salt, a large bunch of savoury herbs, one 
large onion, a head of celery, three carrots, two or three turnips, two 
small blades of mace, eight or ten cloves, and a few white or black pep- 
percorns. Let it boil gently, that it may not be too much reduced, for 
six or seven hours, then strain it into a clean pan and set it by for use. 
Take out the bone from half a calf's head with the skin on (the butcher 
will do this if desired,) wash, roll and bind it with a bit of tape or twine, 
and lay it into a stewpot, w r ith the bones and tongue; cover the whole 
with the beef stock, and stew it for an hour and a half; then lift it into 
a deep earthen pan and let it cool in the liquor, as this will prevent the 
edges from being dry or discoloured. Take it out before it is quite 
cold ; strain, and skim all the fat carefully from the stock : heat five 
pints in a large clean saucepan, with the head cut into small thick 
slices or into inch-squares. As quite the whole will not be needed, 
leave a portion of the fat, but add every morsel of the skin to the soup, 
and of the tongue also. Should the first of these not be perfectly ten- 
der, it must be simmered gently till it is so ; then stir into the soup 
from six to eight ounces of fine rice-flour mixed with a quarter-tea- 
spoonful of cayenne, twice as much freshly pounded mace, half a wine- 
glassful of mushroom catsup, and sufficient cold broth or water to render 
•t of the consistency of batter ; boil the whole from eight to ten minutes; 



CHAP. I.] SOUPS. 51 

take off the scum, and throw in two glasses of sherry ; dish the soup and 
slip into the tureen some delicately fried, and well dried forcemeat-balls 
made by the receipt No. 1, 2, or 3 of Chapter VI. A small quantity of 
lemon-juice or other acid can be added at pleasure. The wine and 
forcemeat-balls may be omitted, and the other seasonings of the soup a 
little heightened. As much salt as may be required should be added to 
the stock when the head first begins to boil in it : the cook must regu- 
late also by the taste the exact proportion of cayenne, mace, and catsup, 
which will flavour the soup agreeably. The fragments of the head, 
with thi! bones and the residue of the beef used for stock, if stewed 
down together with some water and a few fresh vegetables, will afford 
some excellent broth, such as would be highly acceptable, especially if 
well thickened with rice, to many a poor family during the winter 
months. 

Stock : shin of beef, 6 to 7 lbs. ; water, 5 quarts : stewed down (with 
vegetables, &c.) till reduced nearly half. Boned half-head with skin on 
stewed in stock, 1| hour. Soup: stock, 5 pints; tongue, skin of head, 
and part of flesh : 15 to 40 minutes, or more if not quite tender. Rice- 
flour, 6 to 8 ozs. ; cayenne, quarter-teaspoonful ; mace, twice as much ; 
mushroom catsup, \ wineglassful: 10 minutes. Sherry, 2 wineglasses- 
ful, forcemeat-balls, 20 to 30. 

white oyster soup ; {or, Oyster Soup a la Reine.) 

When the oysters are small, from two to three dozens for each pint 
of soup should be prepared, but this number can, of course, be diminished 
or increased at pleasure. Let the fish (which should be finely condi- 
tioned natives) be opened carefully ; pour the liquor from them, and 
strain it; rinse them in it well, and beard them; strain the liquor a 
second time through a lawn-sieve or folded muslin, and pour it again 
over the oysters. Take a portion from two quarts of the palest veal 
stock, and simmer the beards in it from twenty to thirty minutes. Heat 
the soup, flavour it well with mace and cayenne, and strain the stock 
from the oyster-beards into it. Plump the fish in their own liquor, but 
do not let them boil ; pour the liquor to the soup, and add to it a pint of 
boiling cream ; put the oysters into the tureen, dish the soup, and send it 
to table quickly. Should any thickening be' required, stir briskly to the 
stock an ounce and a half of arrow-root, ground very smooth in a mor- 
tar, and carefully mixed with a little milk or cream; or, in lieu of this, 
when a rich soup is liked, thicken it with four ounces of fresh butter 
well blended with three of flour. 

Oysters, 8 to 12 dozens; pale veal stock, 2 quarts; cream, 1 pint; 
thickening, 1^ oz. arrow-root, or butter, 4 ozs., flour, 3 ozs. 

BROWN RABBIT SOUP. 

Cut down into joints, flour, and fry lightly, two full grown, or three 
young rabbits; add to them three onions of moderate size, also fried to a 
clear brown; on these pour gradually seven pints of boiling water, 
throw in a large teaspoonful of salt, clear oft* all the scum with care as 
it rises, and then put to the soup a faggot of parsley, four not very large 
carrots, and a small teaspoonful of peppercorns ; boil the whole very 
softly from five hours to five and a half; add more salt if needed, strain 
off the soup, let it cool sufficiently for the fat to be skimmed clean from 
it, heat it. afresh, and send it to table with sippets of fried bread. Spice, 



52 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. I. 

with a thickening of rice-flour, or of wheaten flour browned in the oven, 
and mixed with a spoonful or two of very good mushroom catsup, or of 
Harvey's sauce, can be added at pleasure to the above, with a few drops 
of eschalot-wine, or vinegar; but the simple receipt will be found 
extremely good without them. 

Rabbits, 2 full grown, or 3 small; onions fried, 3, middling-sized; 
water, 7 pints ; salt, 1 large teaspoonful or more ; carrots, 4 ; faggot of 
parsley ; peppercorns, 1 small teaspoonful ; 5 to 5^ hours. 

PIGEON SOUP. 

Take eight pigeons, cut down two of the oldest, and put them with 
the necks, pinions, livers, and gizzards of the others, into four quarts of 
water; let it boil till the substance is extracted, and strain it; season 
the pigeons with mixed spices and salt, and truss them as for stewing ; 
pick and wash clean a handful of parsley, chives or young onions, and a 
good deal of spinach, chop them ; put in a frying-pan a quarter of a 
pound of butter, and when it boils, mix in a handful of bread crumbs, 
keep stirring them with a knife till of a fine brown ; boil the whole 
pigeons till they become tender in the soup, with the herbs, and fried 
bread. If the soup be not sufficiently high seasoned, add more mixed 
spices and salt. 

PHEASANT OR CHICKEN SOUP. 

Half roast a brace of well-kept pheasants, and flour them rather 
thickly when they are first laid to the fire. As soon as they are nearly 
cold take all the flesh from the breasts, put it aside, and keep it covered 
from the air; carve down the remainder of the birds into joints, bruise 
the bodies thoroughly, and stew the whole gently from two to three 
hours in five pints of strong beef broth ; then strain off the soup, and 
press as much of it as possible from the pheasants. Let it cool, and in 
the mean time strip the skin from the breasts, mince them small, and 
pound them to the finest paste, with half as much fresh butter, and half 
of dry crumbs of bread ; season these well with cayenne, sufficiently 
with salt, and moderately with pounded mace, and grated nutmeg, and 
add, when their flavour is liked, three or four eschalots, previously boiled 
tender in a little of the soup, left till cold, and minced before they are 
put into the mortar; moisten the mixture with the yolks of two or three 
eggs, roll it into small balls of equal size, dust a little flour upon them, 
skim all the fat from the soup, heat it in a clean stewpan, and when it 
boils throw them in and poach them from ten to twelve minutes, but 
first ascertain that the soup is properly seasoned with salt and cay- 
enne. Minced savoury herbs, and even grated lemon-rind, would, 
perhaps, improve the forcemeat, as well as a small portion of lean 
ham, a thick slice of which might be stewed in the soup for the pur- 
pose. We have recommended that the birds should be partially roasted 
before they are put into the soup-pot, because their flavour is much 
finer when this is done than when they are simply stewed ; they should 
be placed rather near to a brisk fire that they be quickly browned on 
the surface, without losing any of their juices, and the basting should be 
constant. A slight thickening of rice-flour or arrow-root can be added 
to the soup at pleasure, and the forcemeat-balls may be fried and slipped 
into the tureen when they are preferred so. Half a dozen eschalots 
.lightly browned in butter, and a small head of celery may also be thrown 



CHAP. I.] SOUPS. 53 

in after the birds begin to stew, but nothing should be allowed to pre- 
vail over the natural flavour of the game itself; and this should be 
observed equally with other kinds, as partridges, grouse, and venison. 

Pheasants 2: roasted 20 to 30 minutes. Strong beef broth, or stock, 
5 pints : 2 to 3 hours. Forcemeat-balls : breasts of pheasants, half as 
much of dry bread-crumbs and of butter, salt, mace, cayenne; yolks of 
2 or 3 eggs (and at choice 3 or 4 boiled eschalots). 

Obs. — The stock may be made of six pounds of shin of beef, and four 
quarts of water reduced to within a pint of half. An onion, a large car- 
rot, a bunch of savoury herbs, and some salt and spice should be added 
to it: one pound of neck of veal or of beef will improve it. 

PARTRIDGE SOUP. 

This is, we think, superior in flavour to the pheasant soup. It should 
be made in precisely the same manner, but three birds allowed for it 
instead of two. Grouse and partridges together will make a still finer 
one : the remains of roast grouse even, added to a brace of partridges, 
will produce a very good effect. 

MULLAGATAWNY SOUP. 

Slice, and fry gently in some good butter three or four large onions, 
and when they are of a fine equal amber-colour, lift them out with a 
slice, and put them into a deep stewpot, or large thick saucepan ; throw 
a little more butter into the pan, and then brown lightly in it a young 
rabbit, or the prime joints of two, or a fowl cut down small, and floured. 
When the meat is sufficiently browned, lay it upon the onions, pour 
gradually to them a quart of good boiling stock, and stew it gently from 
three quarters of an hour to an hour; then take it out, and press the 
stock and onions through a fine sieve or strainer. Add to them two 
pints and a half more of stock, pour the whole into a clean pan, and 
when it boils stir to it two heaped tablespoonsful of currie-powder mixed 
with nearly as much of browned flour, and a little cold water or broth ; 
put it in the meat, and simmer it for twenty minutes or longer should it 
not be perfectly tender, add the juice of a small lemon just before it is 
dished, serve it very hot, and send boiled rice to table with it. Part of 
a pickled mango is sometimes stewed in this soup, and is much recom- 
mended by persons who have been long resident in India. We have 
given here the sort of receipt commonly used in England for mullaga- 
tawny, but a much finer soup may be made by departing from it in 
some respects. The onions, of which the proportion may be increased 
or diminished to the taste, after being fried slowly, and with care, that 
no part should be overdone, may be stewed for an hour in the first quart 
of stock with three or four ounces of grated cocoa-nut, which will im- 
part a rich mellow flavour to the whole. After all of this that can be 
rubbed through the sieve has been added to as much stock as will be 
required for the soup, and the currie-powder and thickening have boiled 
in it for twenty minutes, the flesh of part of a calf's head previously 
stewed almost sufficiently, and cut as for mock turtle, with a sweet- 
bread also stewed or boiled in broth tolerably tender, and divided into 
inch-square?, will make an admirable mullagatawny, if simmered in the 
stock until they have taken the flavour of the currie-seasoning. The 
flesh of a couple of calves' feet, with a sweetbread or two, may, when 
more convenient, be substituted for the head. A large cupful of thick 



54 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. I. 

cream, first mixed and boiled with a teaspoonful of flour or arrow-root 
to prevent its curdling-, and stirred into the soup before the lemon-juice, 
will enrich and improve it much. 

Rabbit, 1, or the best joints of two, or foul, 1 ; large onions, 4 to 6; 
stock, 1 quart: 3 to 1 hour. 2^ pints more of stock ; currie-powder, 2 
heaped tablespoonsful, with 2 of browned flour; meat and all simmered 
together 20 minutes or more ; juice of lemon, 1 small ; or part of pickled 
mango stewed in the soup. 

Or, — onions, 3 to 6 : cocoa-nut, 3 to 4 ozs. ; stock, 1 quart : stewed, 1 
hour. Stock, 3 pints, (in addition to the first quart) ; currie-powder and 
thickening- each, 2 large tablespoonsful : 20 minutes. Flesh of part of 
calf's head and sweetbread, 15 minutes, or more. Thick cream, 1 cup- 
ful ; flour, or arrow-root, 1 teaspoonful : boiled two minutes, and stirred 
to the soup. Chili vinegar, 1 tablespoonful, or lemon-juice, 2 table- 
spoonsful. 

Obs. 1. — The brain of the calf's head stewed for twenty minutes in 
a little of the stock, then rubbed through a sieve, diluted gradually with 
more of the stock, and added as thickening to the soup, will be found 
an admirable substitute for part of the flour. 

Obs. 2. — Three or four pounds of a breast of veal, or an equal weight 
of mutton, free from bone and fat, may take the place of rabbits or fowls 
in this soup, for a plain dinner. The veal should be cut into squares of 
an inch and a half, or into strips of an inch in width, and two in length ; 
and the mutton should be trimmed down in the same way, or into very 
small cutlets. 

Obs. 3.— For an elegant table, the joints of rabbit or of fowl should 
always he boned before they are added to the soup, for which, in this 
case, a couple of each will be needed for a single tureen, as all the in- 
ferior joints must be rejected. 

TO BOIL RICE FOR MULLAGATAWNY SOUPS, OR FOR CURRIES. 

The Patna, or small-grained rice, which is not so good as the Carolina 
for the general purposes of cookery, is the sort which ought to be served 
with currie. First take out the unhusked grains, then wash the rice in 
two or three different waters, and put it into a large quantity of cold ; 
bring it gently to boil, keeping it uncovered, and boil it softly for fifteen 
minutes, when it will be perfectly tender, and every grain will remain 
distinct. Throw it into a large cullender, and let it drain for ten minutes 
near the fire ; should it not then appear quite dry, turn it into a dish, 
and set it for a short time into a gentle oven, or let it steam in a clean 
saucepan near the fire. It should neither be stirred, except just at first, 
to prevent its lumping while it is still quite hard, nor touched with 
either fork or spoon ; the stewpan may be shaken occasionally, should the 
rice seem to require it, and it should be thrown lightly from the cullender 
upon the dish. A couple of minutes before it is done, throw in some salt, 
and from the time of its beginning to boil, remove the scum as it rises. 

Patna rice, \ lb. ; cold water, 2 quarts : boiled slowly, 15 minutes. 
Salt, 1 large teaspoonful. 

06s-. — This, of all the modes of boiling rice, which we have tried, 
and they have been very numerous, is indisputably the best. The Caro- 
lina rice even answers, well dressed, in this way. One or two minutes, 
more or less, will, sometimes, from the varying quality of the grain, be 
requisite to render it tender. 



CHAP. I.] SOUPS. 55 

another receipt for boiling rice ; {not sogood as the preceding one.) 
Wash the rice thoroughly in several waters, and soak it for an hour ; 
drain and throw it into a large quantity of fast-boiling water. Leave it 
uncovered, take off the scum, and add salt when it is nearly done. 
When it has boiled from fifteen to eighteen minutes, drain it well, heap 
it lightly in a dish, and place it in a gentle oven to dry. 

06s.— Rice is of far better flavour when cooked in so much water 
only as it will absorb ; but it cannot then so easily be rendered dry 
enough to serve with currie, or with curried soups. One pint of rice, 
washed and soaked for a few minutes, then wiped very dry, and dropped 
by degrees into five half pints of water, which should boil quickly, and 
continue to do so, while the rice is being added, and for a minute after- 
wards, and then placed over the fire, that it may stew very softly for 
half an hour, or until it is tender, and as dry as it will become without 
being burned, will be found very good. The addition of a couple of 
ounces of fresh butter, when it is nearly done, will convert it into a very 
palatable dish of itself. 

AN EXCELLENT GREEN PEAS SOUP. 

Take at their fullest size, but before they are of bad colour or worm* 
eaten, three pints of fine large peas, and boil them as for table (see 
Chapter XV.) with half a teaspoonful of carbonate of soda in the water, 
that they may be very green. When they are quite tender, drain them 
well, and put them into a couple of quarts of boiling, pale, but good 
beef or veal stock, and stew them in it gently for half an hour, then 
work the whole through a fine hair-sieve ; put it into a clean pan and 
bring it to the point of boiling; add salt, should it be needed, and a 
small teaspoonful of pounded sugar, clear off the scum entirely, and 
serve the soup as hot as possible, with small pale sippets of fried bread. 
An elegant variety of it is made by adding a half pint more of stock to 
the peas, and about three quarters of a pint of asparagus points, boiled 
apartf and well drained before they are thrown into it, which should be 
done only the instant before it is sent to table : the fried bread will not 
then be needed. 

Green peas, 3 pints : boiled 25 to 30 minutes, or more. Veal or beef 
stock, 2 quarts (with peas :) £ an hour. Sugar, one small teaspoonful ; 
salt, if needed. 

Obs. — When there is no stock at hand, four or five pounds of shin 
of beef, boiled slowly down with three quarts of water to two, and well 
seasoned with savoury herbs, young carrots, and onions, will serve in- 
stead quite well. A thick slice of lean, undressed ham would improve it. 

Should a common English peas soup be wished for, make it some- 
what thinner than the one above, and add to it, just, before it is dished, 
from half to three quarters of a pint of young peas boiled tender, and 
well drained. 

GREEN PEAS SOUP, WITHOUT MEAT. 

Boil tender, in three quarts of water, with the proportions of salt and 
soda directed for 'them in Chapter XV., one quart of large, full grown 
peas; drain and pound them in a mortar, mix with them gradually five 
pints of the liquor in which they were boiled, put the whole again over 
the fire, and stew it gently for a quarter of an hour ; then* press it 
through a hair-sieve. In the mean time, simmer, in from three to four 



56 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP I. 

ounces of butter,* three large, or four small cucumbers, pared and 
sliced, the hearts of three or four lettuces shred small, from one to four 
onions, according to the taste, cut thin, a tew smal] sprig's of parsley, 
and, when the flavour is liked, a dozen leaves or more of mint, roughly 
chopped : keep these stirred over a gentle fire for nearly or quite an 
hour, and strew over them a half-teaspoonful of salt, and a good season- 
ing of white pepper or cayenne. When they are partially done, drain 
them from the butter, put them into the strained stock, and let the 
whole boil gently until all the butter has been thrown to the surface, 
and been entirely cleared from it; then throw in from half to three- 
quarters of a pint of young peas, boiled as for eating, and serve the soup 
immediately. * 

When more convenient, the peas, with a portion of the liquor, may 
be pressed through a sieve, instead of being crushed in a mortar; and 
when the colour of the soup is not so much a consideration as the fla- 
vour, they may be slowly stewed until perfectly tender in four ounces 
of good butter, instead of being boiled : a few green onions, and some 
branches of parsley may then be added to them. 

Green peas, 1 quart; water, 5 pints; cucumbers, 3 to 6; lettuces, 3 
or 4; onions, 1 to 4; little parsley; mint (if liked), 12 to 20 leaves; 
butter, 3 to 4 ozs. ; salt, half-teaspoonful ; seasoning of white pepper or 
cayenne: 50 to 60 minutes. Young peas, ^ to | of a pint. 

Obs. — We must repeat that the peas for these soups must not be old, 
as when they are so, their fine sweet flavour is entirely lost, and the 
dried ones would have almost as good an effect; nor should they be of 
inferior kinds. Freshly gathered marrowfats, taken at nearly, or quite 
their full growth, will give the best quality of soup. We are credibly 
informed, but cannot assert it on our own authority, that it is often made 
for expensive tables in early spring, with the young tender plants or 
halms of the peas, when they are about a foot in height. They are cut 
off close to the ground, like small salad, then boiled and pressed through 
a strainer, and mixed with the stock. The flavour is affirmed to be ex- 
cellent. 

A CHEAP GREEN PEAS SOUP. 

Wash very clean, and throw into an equal quantity of boiling water, 
salted as for peas, three quarts of the shells, and in from twenty to 
thirty minutes, when they will be quite tender, turn the whole into a 
large strainer, and press the pods strongly with a wooden spoon. Mea- 
sure the liquor, put two quarts of it into a clean, deep saucepan, and 
when it boils add to it a quart of full grown peas, two, or even three 
large cucumbers, as many moderate-sized lettuces freed from the coarser 
leaves, and cut small, one large onion (or more if liked,) sliced ex- 
tremely thin and stewed for half an hour in a morsel of butter before it 
is added to the soup, or gently fried without being allowed to brown ; a 
branch or two of parsley, and, when the flavour is liked, a dozen 
leaves of mint. Stew these softly for an hour, with the addition of a 
small teaspoonful, or a larger quantity if required, of salt, and a good 
seasoning of fine white pepper, or of cayenne; then press the whole of 
the vegetables with the soup through a hair-sieve, heat it afresh, and 

* Some persons prefer the vegetables slowly fried to a fine hrown, then drained on a 
sieve, and well dried hefore the fire ; hut though more savoury so, they do not improve 
he colour of the soup. 



chap, i.] sours. 5? 

send it to table with a dish of small fried sippets. The colour will not 
be so bright as that of the more expensive soups which precede it, but 
it will be excellent in flavour. 

Pea-shells, 3 quarts ; water, 3 quarts : 20 to 30 minutes. Liquor 
from these, 2 quarts; full-sized green peas, 1 quart; large cucumbers, 
2 or 3 ; lettuces, 3 ; onion, 1 (or more) ; little parsley ; mint, 12 leaves ; 
seasoning of salt and pepper or cayenne : stewed 1 hour. 

Obs. — The cucumbers should be pared, quartered, and freed from the 
seeds before they are added to the soup. The peas, as we have said al- 
ready more than once, should not be old, but taken at their full growth, 
before they lose their colour : the youngest of the shells ought to be se- 
lected for the liquor. 

RICH PEAS SOUP. 

Soak a quart of fine yellow split peas for a night, drain them well, 
and put them into a large soup-pot with five quarts of good brown gravy 
stock ; and when they have boiled gently for half an hour, add to the soup 
three onions, as many carrots, and a turnip or two, all sliced and fried 
carefully in butter ; stew the whole softly till the peas are reduced to 
pulp, then add as much salt and cayenne as may be needed to season it 
well, give it two or three minutes' boil, and pass it through a sieve, 
pressing the vegetables with it. Put into a clean saucepan as much as 
may be required for table, add a little fresh stock to it should it be too 
thick, and reduce it by quick boiling if too thin; throw in the white 
part of some fresh celery sliced a quarter of an inch thick, and when 
this is tender send the soup quickly to table with a dish of small fried 
sippets. A dessertspoonful or more of currie-powder greatly improves 
peas soup: it should be smoothly mixed with a few spoonsful of it, and 
poured to the remainder when this first begins to boil after having been 
strained. 

Split peas, 1 quart : soaked one night. Good brown gravy soup 5 
quarts: 30 minutes. Onions and carrots browned in butter, 3 of each ; 
turnips, 2: 2^ to 3 h hours. Cayenne and salt as needed. Soup, 5 
pints; celery sliced, 1 large or 2 small heads: 20 minutes. 

Obs. — When more convenient, six pounds of neck of beef well scored 
and equally, but carefully browned, may be boiled gently with the peas 
and fried vegetables in a gallon of water (which should be poured to 
them boiling) for four or five hours. 

COMMON PEAS SOUP. 

Wash well a quart of good split peas, and float off such as remain on 
the surface of the water ; soak them for one night, and boil them with 
a bit of soda the size of a filbert in just sufficient water to allow them 
to break to a mash. Put them into from three to four quarts of good 
beef broth, and stew them in it gently for an hour ; then work the whole 
through a sieve, heat afresh as much as may be required for table, season 
it with salt and cayenne or common pepper, clear it perfectly from scum, 
and send it to table with fried or toasted bread. Celery sliced and 
stewed in it as directed for the rich peas soup, will be found a great im 
provement to this. 

Peas, 1 quart: soaked 1 night; boiled in two quarts or rather more 
of water, 2 to 21 hours. Beef broth, 3 to 4 quarts : 1 hour. Salt and 
cayenne or pepper as needed : 3 minutes. 



58 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. I. 

PEAS SOUP WITHOUT MEAT. 

To a pint of peas, freed from all that are worm-eaten, and well 
washed, put five pints of cold water, and boil them tolerably tender ; 
then add a couple of onions (more or less according to the taste), a 
couple of fine carrots grated, one large or two moderate-sized turnips 
sliced, all gently fried brown in butter ; half a teaspoonful of black 
pepper, and three times as much of salt. Stew these softly, keeping 
them often stirred, until the vegetables are sufficiently tender to press 
through a sieve ; then rub the whole through one, put it into a clean 
pan, and when it boils throw in a sliced head of celery, heighten the 
seasoning if needful, and in twenty minutes serve the soup as hot as 
possible, with a dish of fried or toasted bread cut into dice. A little 
Chili vinegar can be added when liked : a larger proportion of vegeta- 
bles also may be boiled down with the peas at pleasure. Weak broth, 
or the liquor in which a joint has been boiled, can, when at hand, be 
substituted for water, but the soup is very palatable as we have given 
the receipt for it Some persons like it flavoured with a little mush- 
room catsup. 

Split peas, 1 pint ; water, 5 pints : 2 hours or more. Onions, 2 ; car- 
rots, 2; large turnip, 1; pepper, ^ teaspoonful; salt, l£ teaspoonful: 1 
to 1^ hour. Celery, 1 head: 20 minutes. 

OX-TAIL SOUP. 

An inexpensive and very nutritious soup may be made of ox-tails, 
but it will be insipid in flavour without the addition of a little ham, 
knuckle of bacon, or a pound or two of other meat. Wash and soak 
three tails, pour on them a gallon of cold water, let them be brought 
gradually to boil, throw in an ounce and a half of salt, and clear off the 
scum carefully as soon as it forms upon the surface; when it ceases to 
rise, add four moderate-sized carrots, from two to four onions, according 
to the taste, a large faggot of savoury herbs, a head of celery, a couple 
of turnips, six or eight cloves, and a half-teaspoonful of peppercorns. 
Stew these gently from three hours to three and a half, if the tails be 
very large; lift them out, strain the liq.uor, and skim off all the fat; cut 
the meat from the tails (or serve them, if preferred, divided into joints), 
and put it into a couple of quarts or rather more of the stock ; stir in, 
when these begin to boil, a thickening of arrow-root or of rice-flour 
(see page 39), mixed with as much cayenne and salt as may be required 
to flavour the soup well, and serve it very hot. If stewed down until 
the flesh falls away from the bones, the ox-tails will make stock which 
will be quite a firm jelly when cold ; and this, strained, thickened, and 
well flavoured with spices, catsup, or a little wine, would, to many 
tastes, be a superior soup to the above. A richer one still may be made 
by pouring good beef broth instead of water to the meat in the first 
instance. 

Ox-tails, 3 ; water, 1 gallon ; salt, 1| oz. ; carrots, 4 ; onions, 2 to 4 ; 
turnips, 2 ; celery, 1 head ; cloves, 8 ; peppercorns, \ teaspoonful ; fag- 
got of savoury herbs : 3 hours to 3£. For a richer soup, 5 to 6 hours. 
(Ham or gammon of bacon at pleasure, with other flavourings.) 

Obs. — To increase the savour of this soup when the meat is not 
served in it, the onions, turnips, and carrots may be gently fried until 
of a fine light brown, before they are added to it. 



CHAP. I.] SOUPS. 59 

A CHEAP AND GOOD STEW SOUP. 

Put from four to five pounds of the gristly part of the shin of beef 
into three quarts of cold water, and stew it very softly indeed, with the 
addition of the salt and vegetables directed for bouillon (see page 41), 
until the whole is very tender; lift out the meat, strain the liquor, and 
put it into a large clean saucepan, add a thickening- of rice-flour or 
arrow-root, pepper and salt if needed, and a tablespoonful of mushroom 
catsup. In the mean time, cut all the meat into small, thick slices, add 
it to the soup, and serve it as soon as it is very hot. The thickening 
and catsup may be omitted, and all the veg-etables, pressed through a 
strainer, may be stirred into the soup instead, before the meat is put 
back into it. 

SOUP IN HASTE. 

Chop tolerably fine a pound of lean beef, mutton, or veal, and when 
it is partly done, add to it a small carrot and one small turnip, cut in 
slices, half an ounce of celery, the white part of a moderate-sized leek, 
or a quarter-ounce of onion. Mince all these tog-ether, and put the 
whole into a deep saucepan with three pints of cold water. When the 
soup boils, take off the scum, and add a little salt and pepper. In half 
an hour it will be ready to serve with or without straining : it may be 
flavoured at will, with cayenne, catsup, or aught else that is preferred. 
It may be converted into French spring broth, by passing it through a 
sieve, and boiling it again for five or six minutes with a handful of 
young and nicely-picked sorrel. 

Meat, 1 lb.; carrot, 2 ozs. ; turnip, li oz. ; celery, ^ oz. ; onion, 
£ oz. ; water, 3 pints : half an hour. Little pepper and salt. 

06s. — Three pounds of beef or mutton, with two or three slices of 
ham, and vegetables in proportion to the above receipt, all chopped fine, 
and boiled in three quarts of water for an hour and a half, will make 
an excellent family soup on an emergency; additional boiling will of 
course improve it, and a little spice should be added after it has been 
skimmed, and salted. It may easily be converted into carrot, turnip, 
or ground-rice soup after it is strained. 

VEAL OR MUTTON BROTH. 

To each pound of meat add a quart of cold water, bring it gently to 
boil, skim it very clean, add salt in the same proportion as for bouillon 
(see page 41), with spices and vegetables also, unless unflavoured broth 
be required, when a few peppercorns, a blade or two of mace, and a 
bunch of savoury herbs will be sufficient; though for some purposes 
even these, with the exception of the salt, are better omitted. Simmer 
the broth for about four hours, unless the quantity be very small, when 
from two and a half to three will be sufficient. A little rice boiled 
down with the meat will both thicken the broth and render it more nu- 
tritious. Strain it off when done, and let it stand till quite cold, that 
the fat may be entirely cleared from it: this is especially needful when 
it is to be served to aq invalid. 

Veal or mutton, 4 lbs. ; water, 4 quarts; salt. For vegetables, &c, 
see page 39 ; rice (if used), 4 ozs. : 4 hours or more. 

MILK SOUP WITH VERMICELLI. 

Throw into five pints of boiling milk a small quantity of salt, and 



60 



MODERN COOKERY. 



[CHAP. II. 



then drop lightly into it five ounces of good fresh vermicelli ; keep the 
milk stirred as this is added, to prevent its gathering into lumps, and 
continue to stir it very frequently from fifteen to twenty minutes, or 
until it, is perfectly tender. The addition of a little pounded sugar and 
powdered cinnamon, renders this a very agreeable dish. In Catholic 
countries, milk soups of various kinds constantly supply the place of 
those made with meat, on maigre days ; and with us they are sometimes 
very acceptable, as giving a change of diet for the nursery or sick room. 
Rice, semoulina, sago, cocoa-nut, and maccaronimay all in turn be used 
for them as directed for other soups in this chapter, but they will be 
required in rather smaller proportions with the milk. 
Milk, 5 pints ; vermicelli, 5 ozs. : 15 to 20 minutes. 




CHAPTER II. 

FISH. 

TO CHOOSE FISH. 

The cook should be w r ell ac- 
quainted with the signs of 
freshness and good condition in 
fish, as many of them are most 
unwholesome articles of food 
when stale, or out of season. 
The eyes should be bright, the 
gills of a fine clear red, the 
body stiff, the flesh firm, yet 
elastic to the touch, and the 
smell not disagreeable. When 
all these marks are reversed, 
Copper Fish or Ham Kettle. and the eyes are sunken, the 

gills very dark in hue, the fish itself flabby and of offensive odour, it is 
bad, and should be avoided. The chloride of 
soda, will, it is true, restore it to a tolerably 
eatable state,* if it be not very much over-kept, 
but it will never resemble in quality fish that is 
fresh from the water. 

A good turbot is thick, and full fleshed, ana 
the under side is of a pale cream colour or yel- 
lowish white; when this is of a bluish tint, and 
the fish is thin and soft, it should be rejected. 
Small Fish Kettle, called a The same observations apply equally to soles. 
Mackerel Kettle. The best salmon and cod fish are known by 

a small head, very thick shoulders, and a small tail ; the scales of the 
former should be bright, and its flesh of a fine red colour : to be eaten 
in perfection it should be dressed as soon as it is caught, before the curd 
(or white substance which li es between the flakes of flesh) has melted 

* We have known this applied very successfully to salmon which from some hours keep- 
ing in sultry weather had acquired a slight degree of taint, of which no trace remained 
after it was dressed. 




CHAP. II.] FISH. 51 

and rendered the fish oily. In that state it is really crimp, out con- 
tinues so only for a very few hours ; and it bears therefore a much higher 
price in the London market then, than when mellowed by having been 
kept a day or two. 

The flesh of cod fish should be white and clear before it is boiled, whiter 
still after it is boiled, and firm though tender, sweet and mild in flavour, 
and separated easily into large flakes. Many persons consider it rather 
improved than otherwise by having a little salt rubbed along the inside of 
of the back-bone and letting it lie from twenty-four to forty-eight hours 
before it is dressed. It is sometimes served crimp like salmon, and must 
then be sliced as soon as it is dead, or within the shortest possible time 
afterwards. 

Herrings, mackerel, and whitings, lose their freshness so rapidly, 
that unless newly caught they are quite uneatable. The herring may, 
it is said, be deprived of the strong rank smell which it emits when 
broiled or fried, by stripping off the skin, under which lies the oil that 
causes the disagreeable odour. The whiting is a peculiarly pure flavoured 
and delicate fish, and acceptable generally to invalids from being very 
light of digestion. 

Eels should be alive and brisk in movement when they are purchased, 
but the " horrid barbarity," as it is truly designated, of skinning and divid- 
ing them while they are so, is without excuse, as they are easily destroyed 
" by piercing the spinal marrow close to the back part of the skull with a 
sharp pointed knife, or skewer. If this be done in the right place all motion 
will instantly cease." We quote Doctor Kitchener's assertion on this sub- 
ject; but we know that the mode of destruction which he recommends is 
commonly practised by the London fishmongers. Boiling water also 
will immediately cause vitality to cease, and is perhaps the most humane 
and ready method of destroying the fish. 

Lobsters, prawns, and shrimps are very stiff when freshly boiled, and 
the tails turn strongly inwards; when these relax, and the fish are 
soft and watery, they are stale ; and the smell will detect their being 
so instantly even if no other symptoms of it be remarked. If bought 
alive, lobsters should be chosen by their weight and " liveliness." The 
hen lobster is preferred for sauce and soups, on account of the coral ; 
but the flesh of the male is generally considered of finer flavour for 
eating. The vivacity of their leaps will show when prawns and 
shrimps are fresh from the sea. 

Oysters should close forcibly on the knife when they are opened : if the 
shells are apart ever so little they are losing their condition, and when they 
remain far open the fish are dead, and fit only to be thrown away. Small 
plump natives are very preferable to the larger and coarser kinds. 

TO CLEAN FISH. 

Let this be done always with the most scrupulous nicety, for nothing 
can more effectually destroy the appetite, or disgrace the cook, than 
fish sent to table imperfectly cleaned. Handle it lightly, and never 
throw it roughly about, so as to bruise it ; wash it well, but do not leave 
it longer in the water than is necessary, for fish, like meat, loses its 
flavour from being soaked. When the scales are to be removed, lay 
the fish flat upon its side, and hold it firmly with the left hand, while 
they are scraped off with the right ; turn it, and when both sides are 
done, pour or pump sufficient water over to float off all the loose scales; 



62 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. II. 

(hen proceed to open and empty it. Be sure that not the slightest par- 
ticle of offensive matter be left in the inside ; wash out the blood en- 
tirely, and scrape or brush it away, if needful, from the back-bone. 
This may easily be accomplished, without opening the fish so much as 
to render it unsightly when it is sent to table. The red mullet is 
dressed without being emptied, and smelts are drawn at the gills. 
When the scales are left on, the outside of the fish should be wel 
washed and wiped with a coarse cloth, drawn gently from the head tc 
the tail. Eels, to be wholesome, should be skinned, but they are 
sometimes dressed without ; boiling water should then be poured upon 
them, and they should be left in it from five to ten minutes, before they 
are cut up. The dark skin of the sole must be stripped off when it is 
fried, but it must be left on, like that of a turbot, when the fish is 
boiled, and it should be dished with the white side upwards. Whitings 
are skinned, and dipped usually into egg and bread-crumbs, when they 
are to be fried ; but for boiling or broiling, the skin must be left on. 

TO KEEP FISH. 

We find that all the smaller kinds of fish keep best if emptied and 
cleaned as soon as they are brought in, then wiped gently as dry as 
they can be, and hung separately by the head on the hooks in the ceil- 
ing of a cool larder, or in the open air when the weather will allow. 
When there is danger of their being attacked by flies, a wire safe, 
placed in a strong draught of air, is better adapted to the purpose. 
Soles in winter will remain good a couple of days when thus prepared; 
and even whitings and mackerel may be kept so without losing any 
of their excellence. Salt may be rubbed slightly over cod fish, and 
well along the back-bone, but it injures the flavour of salmon, the in- 
side of which may be rubbed with vinegar, and peppered instead. 
When excessive sultriness renders all of these modes unavailing, the 
fish must at once be partially cooked to preserve it, but this should be 
avoided if possible, as it is very rarely so good when this method is re- 
sorted to. 

TO SWEETEN TAINTED FISH. 

The application of the pyroligneous acid will effect this when the 
taint is but slight. A wineglassful, mixed with two of water, may be 
poured over the fish, and rubbed upon the parts more particularly re- 
quiring it; it must then be left for some minutes untouched, and after- 
wards washed in several waters, and soaked until the smell of the acid 
is no longer perceptible. The chloride of soda, from its powerful anti- 
putrescent properties, will have more effect when the fish is in a worse 
state. It should be applied in the same manner, and will not at all 
injure the flavour of the fish, which is not fit for food when it cannot 
be perfectly purified by either of these means. The chloride may be 
diluted more or less, as occasion may require. 

BRLNE FOR BOILING FISH. 

Fish is exceedingly insipid if sufficient salt be not mixed with the 
water in which it is boiled, but the precise quantity required for it will 
depend, in some measure, upon the kind of salt which is used. Fine 
common salt is that for which our directions are given ; but when the 
Maldon salt, which is very superior in strength, as well as in its other 
qualities, is substituted for it, a smaller quantity must be allowed. 



CHAP. II.] FISH. 63 

About four ounces to the gallon of water will be sufficient for small fish 
in general ; an additional ounce, or rather more, will not be too much 
for cod fish, lobsters, crabs, prawns, and shrimps ; and salmon will re- 
quire eight ounces, as the brine for this fish should be strong: the water 
should always be perfectly well skimmed from the moment the scum 
begins to form upon the surface. 

Mackerel, whiting, and other small fish, 4 ozs. of salt to a gallon of 
water. Cod fish, lobsters, crabs, prawns, shrimps, 5 to 6 ozs. Salmon, 
8 ozs. 

TO RENDER BOILED FISH FIRM. 

Put a small bit of saltpetre with the salt into the water in which it 
is boiled : a quarter-ounce will be sufficient for a gallon. 

TO KEEP FISH HOT FOR TABLE. 

Never leave it in the water after it is done ; but if it cannot be sent 
to table as soon as it is ready to serve, lift it out, lay the fish-plate into 
a large and very hot dish, and set it across the fish-kettle; just dip a 
clean cloth into the boiling water, and spread it upon the fish ; place a 
tin cover over it, and let it remain so until two or three minutes before 
it is wanted, then remove the cloth, and put the fish back into the ket- 
tle for an instant that it may be as hot as possible ; drain, dish, and 
serve it immediately : the water should be kept boiling the whole time. 

TO BOIL A TURBOT. 

In season all the year. 
A fine turbot, in full season, and well served, is one of the most deli- 
cate and delicious fish that can be sent to table ; but it is generally an 
expensive dish, and its excellence so much depends on the manner in 
which it is dressed, that great care should be taken to prepare it pro- 
perly. After it is emptied, wash the inside until it is perfectly cleansed, 
and rub lightly a little fine salt over the outside, as this will render less 
washing and handling necessary, by at once taking off the slime; 
change the water several times, and when the fish is as clean as it is 
possible to render it, draw a sharp knife through the thickest part of the 
middle of the back nearly through to the bone. Never cut off the fins 
of a turbot when preparing it for table, and remember that it is the 
dark side of the fish in which the incision is to be made, to prevent the 
skin of the white side from cracking. Dissolve in a well-cleaned tur- 
bot, or common fish-kettle, in as much cold spring water as will cover 
the fish abundantly, salt, in the proportion of four ounces to the gallon, 
and a morsel of saltpetre ; wipe the fish-plate with a clean cloth, lay 
the turbot upon it with the white side upwards, place it in the kettle, 
bring it slowly to boil, and clear off the scum thoroughly as it rises. 
Let the water only just simmer until the fish is done, then lift it out, 
drain, and slide it gently on to a very hot dish, with a hot napkin neatly 
arranged over the drainer. Send it immediately to table with rich 
lobster sauce, good plain melted butter, and a dish of dressed cucumber. 
For a simple dinner, anchovy, or shrimp-sauce is sometimes served with 
a small turbot. Should there be any cracks in the skin of the fish, 
branches of curled parsley may be laid lightly over them, or part of the 
inside coral of the lobster, rubbed through a fine hair-sieve, may be 
sprinkled over the fish ; but it is better without either, when it is very 
white, and unbroken. When garnishing* are in favour, a slice of 



04 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. II 

lemon and a tuft of curled parsley may be placed alternately round the 
edge of the dish. A border of fried smelts, or of fillets of soles, was 
formerly served, in general, round a turbot, and is always a very ad- 
missible addition, though no longer so fashionable as it was. From 
fifteen to twenty minutes will boil a moderate-sized fish, and from 
twenty to thirty a large one; but as the same time will not always be 
sufficient for a fish of the same weight, the cook must watch it atten- 
tively, and lift it out as soon as its appearance denotes its being done. 

Moderate sized-turbot, 15 to 20 minutes. Large, 20 to 30 minutes. 
Longer, if of unusual size. 

Obs. — A lemon gently squeezed, and rubbed over the fish, is thought 
to preserve its whiteness. Some good cooks still put turbot into boiling 
water, and to prevent its breaking, tie it with a cloth tightly to the fish- 
plate ; but cold water seems better adapted to it, as it is desirable that 
it should be gradually heated through before it begins to boil. 

TURBOT A LA CREME. 

Raise carefully from the bones the flesh of a cold turbot, and clear it 
from the dark skin ; cut it into small squares, and put it into an ex- 
ceedingly clean stewpan or saucepan ; then make and pour upon it the 
cream-sauce of Chapter IV., or make as much as may be required for 
the fish by the same receipt, with equal proportions of milk and cream, 
and a little additional flour. Heat the turbot slowly in the sauce, but 
do not allow it to boil, and send it very hot to table. The white skin 
of the fish is not usually added to this dish, and it is of better appear- 
ance without it; but for a family dinner, it may be left on the flesh, 
when it is much liked. No acid must be stirred to the sauce until the 
whole is ready for table. 

TO BROIL SALMON. 

This is a good method of dressing a small quantity of salmon for one 
or two persons. It may be cut in slices the whole round of the fish, 
each taking in two divisions of the bone; or the fish may be split, and 
the bone removed, and the sides of the fish divided into cutlets of three 
or four inches each : the former method is preferable, if done neatly 
with a sharp knife. Rub it thoroughly dry with a clean rough cloth ; 
then do each piece over with salad oil or butter. Have a nice clean 
gridiron over a very clear fire, and at some distance from it. When 
the bars are hot. through wipe them, and rub with lard or suet to pre- 
vent sticking; lay on the salmon, and sprinkle with salt. When one 
side is brown, carefully turn and brown the other. They do equally 
well or better in a. tin or flat dish, in an oven, with a little bit of butter, 
or sweet oil ; or they may be done in buttered paper on the gridiron. 
Sauce, lobster or shrimp. 

TO BAKE SALMON. 

If a small fish, turn the tail to the mouth, and skewer it; forcemeat 
may be put in the belly, or, if part of a large fish is to be baked, cut it 
in slices, egg it over, and dip it in the forcemeat. Stick bits of butter 
about the salmon (a few oysters laid round are an improvement.) It 
will require occasional basting with the butter. When one side be- 
comes brown, let it be carefully turned, and when the second side is 
brown, it is done. Take it up carefully, with all that lies about it in 
the bakino- dish. For sauce, melted butter, with two tablespoonsful of 



"HAP. II.] FISH. 65 

port wine, one of catsup, and the juice of a lemon, poured over the fish , 
or anchovy sauce in a boat. 

PICKLE SALMON. 

Do not scrape off the scales, but clean the fish carefully, and cut into 
pieces about eight inches long. Make a strong- brine of salt and water ; 
to two quarts, put two pounds of salt, and a quarter of a pint of vinegar ; 
in all, make just enough to cover the fish ; boil it slowly, and barely as 
much as you would for eating hot. Drain off all the liquor; and, when 
cold, lay the pieces in a kit or small tub. Pack it as close as possible, 
and fill up with equal parts of best vinegar and the liquor in which the 
fish was boiled. Let it remain so a day or two, then again fill up. 
Serve with a garnish of fresh fennel. The same method of pickling 
will apply to sturgeon, mackerel, herrings, and sprats. The three lat- 
ter are sometimes baked in vinegar, flavoured with allspice and bay 
leaves, and eat very well ; but will not keep more than a few days. 

TO BOIL SALMON. 

In full season from May to August: may be had much earlier, but is scarce and dear. 

To preserve the fine colour of this fish, and to set the curd when it is 
quite freshly caught, it is usual to put it into boiling, instead of cold 
water. Scale, empty, and wash it with the greatest nicety, and be 
especially careful to cleanse all the blood from the inside. Stir into the 
fish-kettle eight ounces of common salt to the gallon of water, let it boil 
quickly for a minute or two, take off all the scum, put in the salmon 
and boil it moderately fast, if it be small, but more gently should it be 
very thick; and assure yourself that it is quite sufficiently done, before 
it is sent to table, for nothing can be more distasteful, even to the eye, 
than fish which is under dressed. 

From two to three pounds of the thick part of a fine salmon will 
require half an hour to boil it, but eight or ten pounds will be done 
enough in little more than double that time ; less, in proportion to its 
weight, should be allowed for a small fish, or for the thin end of a large 
one. Do not allow the salmon to remain in the water after it is ready 
to serve, or both its flavour and appearance will be injured. Dish it on 
a hot napkin, and send dressed cucumber, and anchovy, shrimp, or lob- 
ster sauce, and a tureen of plain melted butter to table with it. 

To each gallon of water, 8 ozs. salt. Salmon, 2 to 3 lbs. (thick) 
^ hour : 8 to 10 lbs., l£ hour: small, or thin fish, less time. 

Obs. — A fashionable mode of serving salmon at the present day is to 
divide the larger portion of the body into three equal parts; to boil 
them in water, or in a marinade; and to serve them dished in a line, 
but not close together, and covered with a rich Genevese sauce ; it ap- 
pears to us that the skin should be stripped from any fish over which the 
sauce is poured, but in this case it is not customary. 

CRIMPED SALMON. 

Cut into slices an inch and a half, or two inches thick, the body of a 
salmon quite newly caught ; throw them into strong salt and water as 
they are done, but do not let them soak in it ; wash them well, lay them 
on a fish-plate, and put them into fast-boiling water, salted, and well 
skimmed. In from ten to fifteen minutes they will be done. Dish 
them on a napkin, and send them very hot to table with lobster sauce, 
and plain melted butter; or with the caper fish sauce of Chapter IV 
4 



60 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. II 

The water should be salted as for salmon boiled in the ordinary way , 
and the scum should be cleared off with great care after the fish is in. 
In boiling water, 10 to 15 minutes. 

SALMON A LA ST. MARCEL. 

Separate some cold boiled salmon into flakes, and free them entirety 
from the skin ; break the bones, and boil them in a pint of water foi 
half an hour. Strain off the liquor, put it into a clean saucepan and 
stir into it by degrees when it begins to boil quickly, two ounces of but- 
ter mixed with a large teaspoonfnl of flour, and when the whole has 
boiled for two or three minutes add a teaspoonful of essence of ancho- 
vies, one of good mushroom catsup, half as much lemon-juice or Chili 
vinegar, a half teaspoonful of pounded mace, some cayenne, and a very 
little salt. Heat the fish very slowly in the sauce by the side of the 
fire, but do not allow it to boil. When it is very hot, dish, and send it 
quickly to table. French cooks, when they re-dress fish or meat of any 
kind, prepare the flesh with great nicety, and then put it into a stew- 
pan, and pour the sauce upon it, which is, we think, better than the 
more usual English mode of laying it into the boiling sauce. The cold 
salmon may also be re-heated in the cream sauce of Chapter IV. or in 
the Maitre d'Hotel sauce which follows it; and will be found excellent 
with either. This receipt is for a moderate sized dish. 

Obs.—We regret that we cannot give insertion to a larger number 
of receipts for dressing this truly excellent fish, which answers for 
almost every mode of cookery. It may be fried in cutlets, broiled, 
baked, roasted, or stewed ; served in a common, or in a raised pie, or in 
a potato-pasty ; in a salad, in jelly ; collared, smoked, or pickled ; and 
will be found good prepared by any of these processes. A rather full 
seasoning of savoury herbs is thought to correct the effect of the natu- 
ral richness of the salmon. For directions to broil, bake, or roast it, the 
reader is referred to Chapter VII. 

TO BOIL COD FISH. 

In highest season from October to the beginning of February; in perfection about 
Christmas. 

When this fish is large, the head and shoulders are sufficient for a 
handsome dish, and they contain all the choicer portion of it, though not 
so much substantial eating, as the middle of the body, which, in conse- 
quence, is generally preferred to them by the frugal housekeeper. 
Wash the fish, and cleanse the inside, and the back-bone in particular, 
with the most scrupulous care ; lay it into the fish kettle and cover it 
well with cold water mixed with five ounces of salt to the gallon, and 
about a quarter ounce of saltpetre to the whole. Place it over a mode- 
rate fire, clear off the scum perfectly, and let the fish boil gently until 
it is done. Drain it well* and dish it carefully upon a very hot napkin 
with the liver and the roe as a garnish. To these are usually added 
tufts of lightly scraped horse-raddish round the edge. Serve well made 
oyster sauce and plain melted butter with it; or anchovy sauce when 
oysters cannot be procured. The cream sauce of Chapter IV. is also an 
appropriate one for this fish. 

Moderate sized, 20 to 30 minutes. Large, \ to f hour. 

♦This should be done by setting the fish-plate across the kettle for a minute 
or two. 



CHAP. II.] FISH. 07 

SLICES OF COD FISH FRIED. 

Cut the middle or tail of the fish into slices nearly an inch thick, sea- 
son them with salt and white pepper or cayenne, flour them well, and 
fry them of a clear equal brown on both sides ; drain them on a sieve 
before the fire, and serve them on a well-heated napkin, with plenty of 
crisped parsley round them. Or, dip them into beaten egg, and then 
into fine crumbs mixed with a seasoning- of salt and pepper (some cooks 
add one of minced herbs also,) before they are fried. Send melted but- 
ter and anchovy sauce to table with them. "» 

8 to 12 minutes. 

Obs. — This is a much better way of dressing the thin part of the fish 
than boiling it, and as it is generally cheap, it makes thus an economi- 
cal, as well as a very good dish : if the slices are lifted from the frying- 
pan into a good curried gravy, and left in it by the side of the fire for a 
few minutes before they are sent to table, they will be found excellent. 

STEWED COD. 

Put into boiling water, salted as usual, about three pounds of fresh 
cod fish cut into slices an inch and a half thick, and boil them gently 
for five minutes ; lift them out, and let them drain. Have ready-heated 
in a wide stewpan nearly a pint of veal gravy or of very good broth, lay 
in the fish, and stew it for five minutes, then add four tablespoonsful of 
extremely fine bread-crumbs, and simmer it for three minutes longer. 
Stir well into the sauce a large teaspoonful of arrow-root, quite free 
from lumps, a fourth part as much of mace, something less of cayenne, 
and a tablespoonful of essence of anchovies, mixed with a glass of white 
wine and a dessertspoonful of lemon juice. Boil the whole for a cou- 
ple of minutes, lift out the fish carefully with a slice, pour the sauce 
over, and serve it quickly. 

Cod fish, 3 lbs. : boiled 5 minutes. Gravy, or strong broth, nearly 1 
pint: 5 minutes. Bread-crumbs, 4 tablespoonsful: 3 minutes. Arrow- 
root, 1 large teaspoonful ; mace, £ teaspoonful ; less of cayenne ; es- 
sence' of anchovies, 1 tablespoonful ; lemon-juice, 1 dessertspoonful ; 
sherry or Madeira, 1 wineglassful : 2 minutes. 

Obs. — A dozen or two of oysters, bearded, and added with their 
strained liquor to this dish two or three minutes before it is served, will, 
to many tastes, vary it very agreeably. 

STEWED COD FISH, IN BROWN SAUCE. 

Slice the fish, take off the skin, flour it well, and fry it quickly a fine 
brown ; lift it out and drain it on the back of a sieve, arrange it in a 
clean stewpan, and pour in as much good brown gravy, boiling, as will 
nearly cover it ; add from one to two glasses of port wine, or rather 
more of claret, a dessertspoonful of Chili vinegar, or the juice of half 
a lemon, and some cayenne, with as much salt as may be needed. Stew 
the fish very softly until it just begins to break, lift it carefully with a 
slice into a very hot dish, stir into the gravy an ounce and a half of but- 
ter, smoothly kneaded with a large teaspoonful of flour, and a little 
pounded mace, give the sauce a minute's boil, pour it over the fish, and 
serve it immediately. The wine may be omitted, good shin of beef 
stock substituted for the gravy, and a teaspoonful of soy, one of essence 
of anchovies, and two tablespoonsful of Harvey's sauce added to fla- 
vour it. 



68 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. II. 

TO BOIL SALT FISH. 

When very salt and dry, this must be long-soaked before it is boiled, 
but it is generally supplied by the fishmongers nearly or quite ready to 
dress. When it is not so, lay it for a night into a large quantity of cold 
water, then let it lie exposed to the air for some time, then again put it 
into water, and continue thus until it is well softened. Brush it very 
clean, wash it thoroughly, and put it with abundance of cold water into 
the fish kettle, place it near the fire and let it heat very slowly indeed. 
Keep it just on the point of simmering, without allowing it ever to boil 
(which would render it hard), from three quarters of an hour to a full 
hour, according to its weight; should it be quite small and thin, less 
time will be sufficient for it ; but by following these directions, the fish 
will be almost as good as if it were fresh. The scum should be cleared 
off with great care from the beginning. Egg sauce and boiled parsneps 
are the usual accompaniments to salt fish, which should be dished upon 
a hot napkin, and which is sometimes also thickly strewed with chop- 
ped eggs. 

salt fish ; (a la Mditre a" 'Hotel.) 

Boil the fish by the foregoing receipt, or take the remains of that 
which has been served at table, flake it off clear from the bones, and 
strip away every morsel of the skin; then lay it into a very clean 
saucepan or stewpan, and pour upon it the sharp Maitre d'Hotel sauce 
of Chapter IV. ; or, dissolve gently two or three ounces of butter with 
four or five spoonsful of water, and a half-teaspoonful of flour; add 
some pepper or cayenne, very little salt, and a dessertspoonful or more of 
minced parsley. Heat the fish slowly quite through in either of these 
sauces, and toss or stir it until the whole is well mixed ; if the second 
be used, add the juice of half a lemon, or a small quantity of Chili vin- 
egar, just before it is taken from the fire. The fish thus prepared may 
be served in a deep dish, with a border of mashed parsneps or potatoes. 

TO BOIL CODS SOUNDS. 

Should they be highly salted, soak them for a night, and on the fol- 
lowing day, rub off entirely the discoloured skin ; wash them well, lay 
them into plenty of cold milk and water, and boil them gently from 
thirty to forty minutes, or longer, should they not be quite tender. Clear 
off the scum as it rises with great care, or it will sink, and adhere to 
the sounds, of which the appearance will then be spoiled. Drain them 
well, dish them on a napkin, and send egg sauce and plain melted but- 
ter to table with them. 

TO FRY CODS' SOUNDS IN BATTER. 

Boil them as directed above, until they are nearly done, then lift them 
out, lay them on to a drainer, and let them remain till they are cold ; 
cut them across in strips of an inch deep, curl them round, dip them 
into a good French or English batter, fry them of a fine pale brown, 
drain and dry them well, dish them on a hot napkin, and garnish them 
with crisped parsley. 

TO MAKE CHOWDER. 

Lay some slices cut from the fat part of pork in a deep stew-pan, mix 
sliced onions with a variety of sweet herbs, and lay them on the pork ; 
bone and cut a fresh cod into thin slices, and place them on the pork, 



CHAP. II.] FISH. 69 

then put a layer of pork, on that a layer of biscuit, then alternately the 
other materials until the pan is nearly full, season with pepper and salt, 
put in about a quart of water, cover the stew-pan very close, and let it 
stand, with fire above as well as below, for lour hours; then skim it 
well, and it is done. 

TO BOIL ROCK-FISH, BLACK-FISH, AND SEA- BASS. 

Clean the fish with scrupulous care, particularly the back-bone, then 
lay the fish into the fish-kettle and cover it with cold water, strewing 
in a handful of salt (and a small pinch of saltpetre, if you have it), and 
place it over a moderate fire. Clean off the scum carefully, and let it 
boil very gently till it is done ; then drain it, as directed for cod-fish, 
and dish it nicely — garnished with hard-boiled eggs, cut in halves. 
Celery sauce, or anchovy sauce, is the proper kind for these fish, or 
plain melted butter. 

TO BOIL HALIBUT. 

Take a small halibut, or what you require from a large fish. Put it 
into the fish-kettle, with the back of the fish undermost, cover it with 
cold water, in which a handful of salt and a bit of saltpetre, the size of 
a hazle-nut, have been dissolved. When it begins to boil skim it care- 
fully, and then let it just simmer till it is done. Four pounds of fish 
will require half an hour, nearly, to boil it. Drain it, garnish with 
horse-radish or parsley — egg sauce, or plain melted butter, are served 
with it. 

FILLETS OF HALIBUT, BLACK-FISH, &DC. 

The word fillet, whether applied to fish, poultry, game, or butcher's 
meat, means simply the flesh of either (or of certain portions of it), 
raised clear from the bones in a handsome form, and divided or not, as 
the manner in which it is to be served may require. It is an elegant 
mode of dressing various kinds of fish, and even those which are not 
the most highly esteemed, afford an excellent dish when thus prepared. 
The fish, to be filletted with advantage, should be large ; the flesh may 
then be divided down the middle of the back, next, separated from the 
fins, and with a very sharp knife raised clean from the bones.* When 
thus prepared, the fillets may be divided, trimmed into a good form, 
egged, covered with fine crumbs, fried in the usual way, and served 
with the same sauces as the whole fish ; or each fillet may be rolled up, 
in its entire length, if very small, or after being once divided, if large, 
and fastened with a slight twine, or a short thin skewer; then egged, 
crumbed, and fried in plenty of boiling lard ; or merely well floured and 
fried from eight to ten minutes. When the fish are not very large, 
they are sometimes boned without being parted in the middle, and each 
side is rolled from the tail to the head, after being first spread with but- 
ter, a few bread-crumbs, and a high seasoning of mace and cayenne; 
or with pounded lobster mixed with a large portion of the coral, and 
the same seasoning, and proportion of butter ; then laid into a dish, well 
covered with crumbs of bread and clarified butter, and baked from 
twelve to sixteen minutes, or until the crumbs are coloured to a fine 
brown in a moderate oven. 

* A celebrated French conk gives - the following instructions for raisin? these fillets: 
— "Take them up by running your knife first between the bones and the flesh, then 
between Hie skin and the fillet ; by leaning pretty hard on the (able they nil come ofl[ 
very neatly." 



70 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAF. II. 

The fillets may likewise be cut into small strips or squares of uniform 
size, lightly dredged with pepper or cayenne, salt and flour, and fried 
in butter over a brisk fire; then well drained, and sauced with a good 
bechamel, flavoured with a teaspoonful of minced parsley. 

BAKED SOLES, HALIBUT AND CARP. 

Clarify from two to three ounces of fresh butter, and pour it into the 
dish in which the fish are to be served ; add to it a little salt, some 
cayenne, a teaspoonful of essence of anchovies, and from one to two 
glasses of sherry, or of any other dry white wine ; lay in a couple of 
fine soles which have been well cleaned and wiped very dry,strewover 
them a thick layer of fine bread-crumbs, moisten them with clarified 
butter, set the dish into a moderate oven, and bake the fish a quarter of 
an hour; we would recommend a little lemon-juice to be mixed with 
the sauce. 

Baked 15 minutes. 

Obs. — The fish are, we think, better without the wine in this receipt. 
They require but a small portion of liquid, which might be supplied by 
a little additional butter, a spoonful of water or pale gravy, the lemon- 
juice, and store-sauce. Minced parsley may be mixed with the bread- 
crumbs when it is liked. 

SOLES OR CARP STEWED IN CREAM. 

Prepare some very fresh middling sized fish with exceeding nicety, 
put them into boiling water slightly salted, and simmer them for two 
minutes only ; lift them out, and let them drain ; lay them into a wide 
stevvpan with as much sweet rich cream as will nearly cover them; 
add a good seasoning of pounded mace, cayenne and salt ; stew the fish 
softly from six to ten minutes, or until the flesh parts readily from the 
bones ; dish them, stir the juice of half a lemon to the sauce, pour it 
over the soles, and send them immediately to table. Some lemon-rind 
may be boiled in the cream, if approved ; and a small teaspoonful of 
arrow-root, very smoothly mixed with a little milk, may be stirred to 
the sauce (should it require thickening) before the lemon-juice is added. 
Turbot and brill also may be dressed by this receipt, time, proportioned 
to their size, being of course allowed for them. 

Soles, 3 or 4 : boiled in water 2 minutes. Cream, h to whole pint; 
salt, mace, cayenne : fish stewed, 6 to 10 minutes. Juice of half a 
lemon. 

TO BOIL STURGEON. 

Take off the skin, which is very rich and oily ; cut in slices ; season 
with pepper and salt ; broil over a clear fire ; rub over each slice a bit 
of butter, and serve with no other accompaniment than lemon ; or the 
slices may be dipped in seasoning or forcemeat, twisted in buttered 
white paper, and so broiled. For sauce, serve melted butter with catsup. 
Garnish with sliced lemon, as the juice is generally used with the fish. 

TO ROAST STURGEON. 

A piece of sturgeon may be tied securely on a spit, and roasted. 
Keep it constantly basted with butter, and when nearly done dredge 
with bread crumbs. When the flakes begin to separate, it is done. It 
will take about half an hour before a brisk fire. Serve with good gravy, 
thickened with butter and flour, and enriched with an anchovy, a glass 
of sherry wine, and the juice of half a Seville orange or lemon. 



CHAP. II.] FISH. 71 

TO STEW STURGEON. 

Take enough gravy to cover the fish ; set it on with a tablespoonful 
of salt, a few corns of black pepper, a bunch of sweet herbs, an onion 
or two, scraped horse-radish, and a glass of vinegar. Let this boil a 
few minutes ; then set it aside to become pretty cool ; then add the 
fish ; let it come gradually to boil ; and then stew gently till the fish 
begins to break. Take it off immediately ; keep the fish warm ; strain 
the gravy, and thicken with a good piece of butter ; add a glass of port 
or sherry wine, a grate of nutmeg, and a little lemon juice. Simmer till 
it thickens, and then pour over the fish. Sauce, anchovy. 

TO FRY STURGEON. 

Cut the fish into rather thin slices ; sprinkle it well with salt on both 
sides; when the salt has drawn out all the moisture of the fish, roll it 
in bread crumbs and egg, and fry it in hot lard. When done, take it 
out and put a glass of water, a spoonful of vinegar, and a little lemon- 
peel into the pan, give it a boil, cup and strain it over the fish. 
to boil whitings ; (Freiich Receipt.) 

Having scraped, cleaned, and wiped them, lay them on a fish-plate, 
and put them into water at the point of boiling; 'throw in a handful of 
salt, two bay leaves, and plenty of parsley, well washed, and tied to- 
gether ; let the fish just simmer from five to ten minutes, and watch 
them closely that they may not be over-done. Serve parsley and but- 
ter with them, and use in making it the liquor in which the whitings 
have been boiled. 

Just simmered from 5 to 10 minutes. 

BAKED WHITINGS A LA. FRANCAISE. 

Proceed with these exactly as with baked soles, page 70, or, pour a 
little clarified butter into a deep dish, and strew it rather thickly with 
• finely-minced mushrooms, mixed with a teaspoonful of parsley, and 
(when the flavour is liked, and considered appropriate) with an escha- 
lot or two, or the white part of a few green onions, also chopped very 
small. On these place the fish, after they have been scaled, emptied, 
thoroughly washed, and wiped dry: season them well with salt, and' 
white pepper, or cayenne ; sprinkle more of the herbs upon them ; pour 
gently from one to two glasses of light white wine into the dish, cover 
the whitings with a thick layer of fine crumbs of bread, sprinkle these 
plentifully with clarified butter, and bake the fish from fifteen to twenty 
minutes. Send a cut lemon only to table with them. When the wine 
is not liked, a few spoonsful of pale veal gravy can be used instead ; oi 
a larger quantity of clarified butter, with a tablespoonful of water, a 
teaspoonful of lemon-pickle and of mushroom catsup, and a few drops 
of soy. 

15 to 20 minutes. 

TO BOIL MACKEREL. 

In full season in May, June, and July; may be had also in early spring. 

Open the fish sufficiently to admit of the insides being perfectly 
cleansed, but not more than is necessary for this purpose ; empty them 
with care, lay the roes apart, and wash both them and the mackerel 
delicately clean. It is customary now to lay these, and the greater 
number of other fish as well, into cold water when they are to be boiled , 
formerly all were plunged at once into fast-boiling water. For such as 



72 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. II. 

are small and delicate, it should be warm, but not scalding ; they should 
be brought gently to a soft boil, and simmered until they are done; the 
scum should be cleared off as it rises, and the usual proportion of salt 
stirred into the water before the mackerel are put in. The roes are 
commonly replaced in the fish, but as they sometimes require more 
boiling than the mackerel themselves, it is better, when they are very 
large, to lay them upon the drainer by their sides. From fifteen to 
twenty minutes will generally be sufficient to boil a full-sized macke- 
rel: some will be done in less time, but they must be watched, and 
lifted out as soon as the tails split, and the eyes are starting. 

Dish them on a napkin, and send fennel or gooseberry sauce to table 
with them, and plain melted butter also. 

Small mackerel, 10 to 15 minutes; large, 15 to 20 minutes. 

TO BAKE MACKEREL. 

After they have been cleaned and well washed, wipe them very dry, 
fill the insides with the forcemeat, No. 1 of Chapter VI., sew them up, 
arrange them, with the roes, closely together in a coarse baking-dish, 
flour them lightly, strew a little fine salt over, and stick bits of butter 
upon them ; or pour some equally over them, after having just dissolved 
it in a small saucepan. Half an hour in a moderate oven will bake 
them. Oyster forcemeat is always appropriate for any kind of fish 
which is in season, while the oysters are so, but the mackerel are com- 
monly served, and are very good with that which we have named. 
Lift them carefully into a hot dish after they are taken from the oven, 
and send melted butter, and the sauce cruets to table with them. 

^ hour. 

Obs. — The dish in which they are baked should be buttered before 
they are laid in. 

fried mackerel ; (common French receipt.) 

After the fish have been emptied and washed extremely clean, cut 
off* the heads and tails, split the bodies quite open, and take out the 
backbones ;* wipe the mackerel very dry, dust fine salt, and pepper (or 
cayenne), over them, flour them well, fry them a fine brown in boiling 
lard, drain them thoroughly, and serve them with the following sauce : 
Dissolve in a small saucepan an ounce and a half of butter smoothly 
mixed with a teaspoonful of flour, some salt, pepper, and cayenne, shake 
these over a gentle fire until they are lightly coloured, then add by 
slow degrees nearly half a pint of good broth, or gravy, and the juice 
of one large lemon : boil the sauce for a couple of minutes, and serve 
it very hot. Or, instead of this, add a large teaspoonful of strong-made 
mustard, and a dessertspoonful of Chili vinegar, to some thick melted 
butter, and serve it with the fish. A spoonful of Harvey's sauce, or of 
mushroom catsup, can be mixed with this last, at pleasure. 

fillets of mackerel ; (fried or broiled.) 
Take off the flesh quite whole on either side, from three fine macke- 
rel, which have been opened and properly cleaned ; let it be entirely 
free from bone, dry it well in a cloth, then divide each part in two, and 
dip them into the beaten yolks of a couple of eggs, .seasoned with salt 

* We recommend in preference that the flesh of the fish should be taken off the 
bones as in the following receipt. % 



CHAP. II.] •FISH. 73 

and white pepper or cayenne; cover them equally with fine dry crumbs 
of bread, and fry them like soles ; or dip them into clarified butter, and 
then again into the crumbs, and broil them over a very clear fire of a 
fine brown. Dish them in a circle one over the other, and send them 
to table with the Maitre d'Hotel sauce of Chapter IV., or with the one 
which follows it. The French pour the sauce into the centre of the 
dish; but for broiled fillets this is not so well, we think, as serving it in 
a tureen. The roes of the fish, after being well washed and soaked, 
may be dressed with them, or they may be made into patties. Minced 
parsley can be mixed with the bread-crumbs when it is liked. 

BOILED FILLETS OF MACKEREL. 

After having taken oft' and divided the flesh of the fish, as above, 
place it flat in one layer in a wide stewpan or saucepan, and just cover 
the fillets with cold water ; throw in a teaspoonful of salt, and two or 
three small sprigs of parsley. Bring the mackerel slowly to a boil, 
clear off the scum with care, and after two or three minutes of slow 
simmering, try the fillets with a fork; if the thick part divides with a 
touch, they are done. Lift them out cautiously with a slice ; drain, and 
serve them very hot with good parsley and butter ; or strip off the 
skin quickly, and pour a Maitre d'Hotel sauce over them. 

mackerel broiled whole ; {an excellent receipt.) 
Empty, and cleanse perfectly a fine and very fresh mackerel, but 
without opening' it more than is needful; dry it well, either in a cloth, 
or by hanging it in a cool air until it is stiff; make, with a sharp knife, 
a deep incision the whole length of the fish, on either side of the back- 
bone, and about half an inch from it, and with a feather put in a little 
cayenne and fine salt, mixed with a tew drops of good salad oil or cla- 
rified butter. Lay the mackerel over a moderate fire upon a well 
heated gridiron, which has been rubbed with suet; loosen it gently 
should it stick, which it will do unless often moved; and when it is 
equally done on both sides, turn the back to the fire. About half an 
hour will broil it well. If a sheet of thickly-buttered writing-paper be 
folded round it, and just twisted at the ends before it is laid on the grid- 
iron, it will be finer eating than if exposed to the fire; but sometimes 
when this is done, the skin will adhere to the paper, and be drawn off 
with it, which injures its appearance. A cold Maitre d'Hotel sauce 
(see Chapter IV.), may be put into the back before it is sent to table. 
This is one of the very best modes of dressing a mackerel, which in 
flavour is quite a different fish when thus prepired to one which is 
simply boiled. A drop of oil is sometimes passed over the skin to pre- 
vent its sticking to the iron. It may be laid to the fire after having 
been merely cut as we have directed, when it is preferred so. 
30 minutes; 25 if small. 

mackerel stewed with wine; (very ^ood.) 
Work very smoothly together a large teaspoonful of flour with two 
ounces of butter, put them into a stewpan, and stir or shake them round 
over the fire until the butter is dissolved ; add a quarter-teaspoonful oi 
mace, twice as much salt, and some cayenne; pour in by slow deo-rec? 
three glasses of claret, and when the sauce boils, lay in a couple of fine 
mackerel, well cleaned, and wiped quite dry; stew them very softly 



74 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. II. 

from fifteen to twenty minutes, and turn them when half done ; lift 
them out, and dish them carefully; stir a teaspoonful of made-mustard 
to the sauce, give it a boil, and pour it over the fish. When more con- 
venient, substitute port wine and a little lemon-juice, for the claret. 

Mackerel, 2 ; flour, 1 teaspoonful ; butter, 2 ozs. ; seasoning of salt, 
mace, and cayenne ; claret, 3 glassesful ; made-mustard, 1 teaspoonful : 
15 to 20 minutes. 

FILLETS OF MACKEREL STEWED IN WINE; {excellent.) 

Raise the flesh entire from the bones on either side of the mackerel, 
and divide it once, if the fish be small, but cut the whole into six parts 
of equal size should they be large. Mix with flour, and dissolve the 
butter as in the preceding receipt, and when it has simmered for a 
minute throw in the spice, a little salt, and the thinly pared rind of 
half a small fresh lemon ; lay in the fillets of fish, shake them over a 
gentle fire from four to five minutes, and turn them once in the time ; 
then pour to them in small portions a couple of large glassesful of port 
wine, a tablespoonful of Harvey's sauce, should it be at hand, a tea- 
spoonful of soy, and one of lemon-juice ; stew the mackerel very softly 
until the thinner parts begin to break, lift them out with care, dish and 
serve them in their sauce as hot as possible. We can recommend the 
dish to our readers as a very excellent one. A garnish of fried sippets 
can be placed round the fish at will. A teaspoonful of made-mustard 
should be stirred to the sauce before it is poured over the fish. 

Mackerel, 2; butter, 2 ozs.; flour, 1 teaspoonful; rind of £ lemon; 
salt, cayenne, pounded mace : 2 minutes. Fish, 4 to 5 minutes. Port 
wine, 2 large glassesful; Harvey's sauce, 1 tablespoonful; soy and 
lemon-juice each, 1 teaspoonful : 4 to 6 minutes. Mustard, 1 teaspoonful. 

Obs. — Trout may be dressed by this receipt. 

TO BOIL HADDOCKS. 

In the best season in October, November, and December. 

Scrape the outsides very clean, open the fish, empty them, wash the 
insides thoroughly, take out the gills, curl the haddocks round, fasten 
the tails to the mouths, arrange them on a fish-plate, and lay them into 
warm water salted as for mackerel, with a very small bit of saltpetre to 
render them firm. Skim the water, and simmer them from seven to 
ten minutes, according to thetr size. Send them very hot to table, with 
a tureen of melted butter, and one of anchovy sauce. 

7 to 10 minutes. 

BAKED HADDOCKS. 

After they have been cleaned, dry them thoroughly, then bake them, 
as directed in the common receipt for pike, or fill them with oyster- 
forcemeat, or with No. 1 of Chapter IV., if more convenient, and pro- 
ceed as for baked mackerel. 

20 to 30 minutes ; longer if very large. 

TO BOIL PLAICE OR FLOUNDERS. 

Plaice in season from May to January; flounders in September, October, and No- 

vember. 

After having emptied and well cleaned the fish, make an incision in 
the back as directed for turbot; lay them into cold spring water; add 
salt, and saltDetre in the same proportion as for cod fish, and let them 



CHAP. II.] FISH. 75 

just simmer for four or five minutes after the water first begins to boil, 
or longer, should their size require it, but guard against their being 
broken. Serve them with plain melted butter. 
4 to 5 minutes: longer if needful. 

TO FRY PLAICE OR FLOUNDERS. 

Sprinkle them with salt, and let them lie for two or three hours be- 
fore they are dressed. Wash and clean them thoroughly, wipe them 
very dry, flour them well, and wipe them again with a clean cloth ; dip 
them into egg, and fine bread-crumbs, and fry them in plenty of lard. 
If the fish be large, raise the flesh in handsome fillets from the bones, 
and finish them as directed for fillets of soles. 

Obs. — Plaice is said to be rendered less watery by beating it gently 
with a paste-roller before it is cooked. It is very sweet and pleasant in 
flavour while it is in the best season, which is from the end of May to 
about September. 

TO ROAST, BAKE, OR BROIL RED MULLET. 

In best season through the summer: may he had all the year. 

First wash, and then dry the fish thoroughly in a cloth, but neither 
scale nor open it ; wrap it closely in a sheet of thickly-buttered paper, 
tie this securely at the ends, and over the mullet with packthread, and 
roast it in a Dutch oven, or broil it over a clear and gentle fire, or 
bake it in a moderate oven: from twenty to thirty minutes will 
be sufficient generally to dress it in either way, if it be only of mode- 
rate size. For sauce, put into a little good melted butter the liquor 
which has flowed from fish, a small dessertspoonful of essence of ancho- 
vies, some cayenne, a glass of port wine, or claret, and a little lemon- 
juice. Remove the packthread, and send the mullet to table in the 
paper case. This is the usual mode of serving it ; but it is dished with- 
out the paper, for dinners of high taste. 
. 20 to 30 minutes. 

TO BOIL GREY MULLET. 

This fish varies so much in size and quality, that it is difficult to give 
exact directions for the time of cooking it. When quite young and 
small, it may be boiled by the receipt for whitings, haddocks, and other 
fish of about their size : but at its finest growth it must be laid into cold 
water, and managed like larger fish. We have ourselves partaken of 
one which was caught upon our eastern coast, that weighed ten pounds, 
of which the flesh was quite equal to that of salmon, but its weight was, 
we believe, an unusual one. Anchovy, or caper fish sauce, with melted 
butter, mav be sent to table with grey mullet. 

TO FRY SMELTS AND OTHER SMALL FISH. 

In season from beginning of November to May. 

Smelts when quite fresh have a perfume resembling that of a cucum- 
ber, and a peculiarly delicate and agreeable flavour when dressed. 
Draw them at the gills, as they must not be opened ; wash and dry 
them thoroughly in a cloth ; dip them into beaten egg-yolk, and then 
into the finest bread-crumbs, mixed with a small quantity of flour; fry 
them of a clear golden brown, and serve them very crisp and dry, with 
good melted butter in a tureen. They are sometimes dipped into bat- 
ter and then fried ; when this is done, we would recommend for them 
the French batter of Chapter IV. 

3 to 4 minutes. 



76 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. II. 

TO BAKE A SHAD. 

Empty and wash the fish with care, but do not open it more than is 
necessary, and keep on the head and fins. Then stuff it with forcemeat 
No. 2, of Chapter VI. Sew it up, or fasten it with fine skewers, and 
rub the fish over with the yolk of egg and a little of the stuffing. 

Put into the pan in which the fish is to be baked about a gill of wine, 
or the same quantity of water mixed with a tablespoonful of cayenne 
vinegar, or common vinegar will do. Baked in a moderate oven 1^ or 
2 hours, according to its size. 

TO BROIL SHAD. 

This delicate and delicious fish is excellent broiled. Clean, wash, 
and split the shad, wipe it dry, and sprinkle it with pepper and salt — 
broil it like mackerel. 

shad, touraine fashion ; (Alose a la mode de Touraine.) 

In season in April, May, and early part of June. 

Empty and wash the fish with care, but do not open it more than is 
needful ; fill it either with the forcemeat No. 1, or No. 2 of Chapter 
VL, and its own roe ; then sew it up, or fasten it securely with very 
fine skewers, wrap it in a thickly-buttered paper, and broil it gently for 
an hour over a charcoal fire. Serve it with caper sauce, or with cay- 
enne vinegar and melted butter. 

We are indebted for this receipt to a friend who has been long resi- 
dent in Touraine, at whose table the fish is constantly served, thus 
dressed, and is considered excellent. It is likewise often gently stewed 
in the light white wine of the country, and served covered with a rich 
bechamel. Many fish more common with us than the shad might be 
advantageously prepared in the same manner. The charcoal fire is not 
indispensable : any that is entirely free from smoke will answer. We 
would suggest as an improvement, that oyster-forcemeat should be sub- 
stituted for that which we have indicated, until the oyster season ends. 

Broiled gently, 1 hour, more or less, according to its size. 
stewed trout ; (good common receipt.) 
In season from May to August. 

Melt three ounces of butter in a broad stevvpan, or well tinned iron 
saucepan, stir to it a tablespoonful of flour, some mace, cayenne, and 
nutmeg ; lay in the fish after it has been emptied, washed very clean, 
and wiped perfectly dry ; shake it in the pan, that it may not stick, and 
when lightly browned on both sides, pour in three quarters of a pint of 
good veal stock, add a small bunch of parsley, one bay leaf, a roll of 
lemon-peel, and a little salt: stew the fish very gently from half to 
three quarters of an hour, or more, should it be unusually fine. Dish 
the trout, skim the fat from the gravy, and pass it through a hot strainer 
over the fish, which should be served immediately. A little acid can 
be added to the sauce at pleasure, and a glass of wine when it is con- 
sidered an improvement. This receipt is for one large, or for two mid- 
dling-sized fish. We can recommend it as a good one, from our own 
experience. 

Butter, 3 ozs. ; flour, 1 tablespoonful ; seasoning of mace, cayenne, 
and nutmeg; trout, 1 large, or 2 moderate sized; veal stock, £ pint; 
parsley, small faggot ; 1 bay-leaf; roll of lemon-rind ; little salt : ^ to 
£ hour. 



CHAI\ II. J FISH. 



77 



Obs. — Trout may be stewed in equal parts of strong veal gravy, and 
of red or white wine, without having been previously browned; the 
sauce should then be thickened, and agreeably flavoured with lemon- 
juice, and the usual store-sauces, before it is poured over the fish. They 
are also good when wrapped in buttered paper and baked or broiled : if 
very small, the better mode of cooking them is to fry them whole. 
They should never be plain boiled, as, though a naturally delicious fish, 
they are then very insipid. 

TO FRY TROUT. 

Clean and dry them thoroughly in a cloth, fry them plain in hot butter ; 
or beat the white of egg on a plate, dip the trout in the egg and then 
in very fine bread-crumbs, which have been rubbed through a sieve — 
biscuit powder is better. Fry them till of a delicate brown ; it takes 
but a few minutes, if the trout be small — serve with crisp parsley and 
plain melted butter. 

to bake pike, or trout; (common receipt.) 

Pour warm water over the outside of the fish, and wipe it very clean 
with a coarse cloth drawn from the head downwards, that the scales 
may not be disturbed ; then wash it well in cold water, empty, and 
clean the inside with the greatest nicety, fill it either with the common 
forcemeat, No. 1, or with No. 4, of Chapter VI., sew it up, fasten the 
tail to the mouth, give it a slight dredging of flour, stick small bits of 
butter thickly over it, and bake it from half to three quarters of an 
hour, should it be of moderate size, and upwards of an hour, if it be 
large. Should there not be sufficient sauce with it in the dish, plain 
melted butter, and a lemon, or anchovy sauce may be sent to table with 
it. When more convenient, the forcemeat may be omitted, and a little 
fine salt and cayenne, with some bits of butter, put into the inside of 
the fish, which will then require rather less baking. A buttered paper 
should always be laid over it in the oven, should the outside appear 
likely to become too highly coloured, or too dry, before the fish is done ; 
and it is better to wrap quite small pike in buttered paper at once, be- 
fore they are sent to the oven. 

Moderate-sized pike, 30 to 45 minutes; large pike, 1 to l£ hour. 

TO BOIL PERCH. 

First wipe or wash off the slime, then scrape off the scales, which 
adheres rather tenaciously to this fish ; empty and clean the insides per- 
fectly, take out the gills, cut oft' the fins, and lay the perch into equal 
parts of cold and of boiling water, salted as for mackerel: from eight to 
ten minutes will boil them unless they are very large. Dish them on a 
napkin, garnish them with curled parsley, and serve melted butter with 
them, or Mditre d' 'Hotel sauce mnigre. 

Very good French cooks put them at once into boiling water, and 
keep them over a brisk fire for about fifteen minutes. They dress them 
also without taking off the scales or fins until they are ready to serve, 
when they strip the whole of the skin off carefully, and stick the red 
fins into the middle of the backs; the fish are then covered with the 
Steward's sauce, thickened with eggs. 

In warm water, 8 to 10 minutes, m boiling, 12 to 15. 



78 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. II. 

TO FRY PERCH OR TENCH. 

Scale, and clean them perfectly; dry them well, flour and fry them 
in boiling lard. Serve plenty of tried parsley round them. 

TO FRY EELS. 

In season all the year, but not so well-conditioned in April and May as in other 
months. 

First kill, then skin, empty, and wash them as clean as possible ; cut 
them into four-inch lengths, and dry them well in a soft cloth. Season 
them with fine salt, and white pepper, or cayenne, flour them thickly, 
and fry them a fine brown in boiling lard ; drain and dry them as direct- 
ed for soles, and send them to table with plain melted butter and a 
lemon, or the sauce-cruets. Eels are sometimes dipped into batter and 
then tried ; or into egg and fine bread-crumbs (mixed with minced pars- 
ley or not, at pleasure), and served with plenty of crisped parsley round, 
and on them. 

It is an improvement for these modes of dressing the fish to open 
them entirely and remove the bones : the smaller parts should be thrown 
into the pan a minute or two later than the thicker portions of the bodies, 
or they will not be equally done. 

boiled eels; (German receipt.) 

Pare a fine lemon, and strip from it entirely the white inner rind, 
slice it, and remove the pips with care, put it with a blade of mace, a 
small half-teaspoonful of white pepper-corns, nearly twice as much of 
salt, and a moderate-sized bunch of parsley, into three pints of cold 
water, bring them gently to boil, and simmer them for twenty minutes ; 
let them become quite cold, then put in three pounds of eels skinned, 
and cleaned with great nicety, and cut into lengths of three or four 
inches ; simmer them very softly from ten to fifteen minutes, lift them 
with a slice into a very hot dish, and serve them with a good Dutch 
sauce, or with parsley and butter acidulated with lemon-juice, or with 
vinegar. 

eels; (Cornish receipt.) 

Skin, empty, and wash as clean as possible, two or three fine eels, 
cut them into short lengths, and just cover them with cold water ; add 
sufficient salt and cayenne to season them, and stew them very softly 
indeed from fifteen to twenty minutes, or longer should they require it. 
When they are nearly done, strew over them a tablespoonful of minced 
parsley, thicken the sauce with a teaspoonful of flour mixed with a slice 
of butter, and add a quarter-pint or more of clotted cream. Give the 
whole a boil, lift the fish into a hot dish, and stir briskly the juice of 
half a lemon into the sauce ; pour it upon the eels, and serve them im- 
mediately. Very sweet thick cream is, we think, preferable to clotted 
cream for this dish. The sauce should be of a good consistence, and a 
dessertspoonful of flour will be needed for a large dish of the stew, and 
from one and a half to two ounces of butter. The size of the fish must 
determine the precise quantity of liquid and of seasoning which they 
will require. 

By substituting pale veal gravy for water, and thin strips of lemon- 
rind for the parsley, this maybe converted into a white fricasse of eels: 
a flavouring of mace must then be added to it, and the beaten yolks of 
two or Miree eggs, mixed with a couple of spoonsful of cream, must be 



CHAP. II.] FISH. 79 

stirred into the sauce before the lemon-juice, but it must on no account 
be allowed to boil afterwards. Rich brown gravy and port wine highly 
spiced, with acid as above, will give another variety of stewed eels. 
For this dish the fish are sometimes fried before they are laid into the 
sauce. 

TO BOIL LOBSTERS. 
In season from April to October. 

Choose them by the directions which we have already given at the 
commencement of this chapter, and throw them into plenty of fast- 
boiling salt and water, that life may be destroyed in an instant. A 
moderate-sized lobster will be done in from fifteen to twenty-five mi- 
nutes: a large one in from half an hour to forty minutes; before they 
are sent to table, the large claws should be taken off, and the shells 
cracked across the joints without disfiguring them ; the tail should be 
separated from the body and split quite through the middle; the whole 
neatly dished upon a napkin, and garnished with curled parsley or not, 
at choice. A good remoulade, or any other sauce of the kind that may 
be preferred, should be sent to table with it ; or oil and vinegar, when 
better liked. 

To 1 gallon water 5 ozs. salt. Moderate-sized lobster, 15 to 25 mi- 
nutes. Large lobster, 30 to 40 minutes. 

LOBSTER FRICASSEED, OR ATJ BECHAMEL. (ENTREE.) 

Take the flesh from the claws and tails of two moderate-sized lob- 
sters, cut it into small thick slices or dice; heat it slowly quite through 
in about three quarters of a pint of good white sauce or bechamel ; and 
serve it when it is at the point of boiling, after having stirred briskly 
to it a little lemon-juice, just as it is taken from the fire. The coral, 
pounded and mixed gradually with a few spoonsful of the sauce, should 
be added previously. Good shin of beef stock, made without vegeta- 
bles (see page 53), and somewhat reduced by quick boiling, if mixed 
with an equal proportion of cream, and thickened with arrow-root, will 
answer extremely well, in a general way, for this dish, which is most 
excellent, if well made. The sauce should never be thin ; nor more 
than sufficient in quantity to just cover the fish. For a second course 
dish only as much must be used as will adhere to the fish, which after 
being heated should be laid evenly into the shells after they have been 
split quite through the centre of the backs in their entire length, with- 
out being broken or divided at the joint, and nicely cleaned. When 
thus arranged, the lobster may be thickly covered with well-dried, fine, 
pale, fried crumbs of bread ; or with unfried ones, which must then be 
equally moistened with clarified butter, and browned with a salamander. 
A small quantity of salt, mace, and cayenne, may be required to finish 
the flavouring of either of these preparations, 

BUTTERED CRAB, OR LOBSTER. 

In season during the same time as Lobsters. 
Slice quite small, or pull into light flakes with a couple of forks, the 
flesh of either fish ; put it into a saucepan with a few bits of good but- 
ter lightly rolled in flour, and heat it slowly over a gentle fire ; then 
pour over and mix thoroug-hly with it, from one to two teaspoonsful of 
made-mustard smoothly blended with a tablespoonful or more of com- 
mon vinegar : add to it a tolerable seasoning of cayenne. Grate in a 



80 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. II. 

little nutmeg, and when the whole is well heated serve it immediately 
either in the shell of the crab or lobster, or in scollop-shells, and serve 
it plain, or with bread-crumbs over, as in the preceding- receipt. A 
spoonful or so of good meat jelly is, we think, a great improvement to 
this dish, for which an ounce and a half of butter will be quite suffi- 
cient. 

Crabs are boiled like lobsters. 

TO STEW LOBSTERS. 

A middling sized lobster is best : pick all the meat from the shells 
and mince it fine ; season with a little salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg ; 
add three or four spoons of rich gravy and a small bit of butter. If you 
have no gravy, use more butter, and two spoonsful of vinegar ; stew 
about twenty minutes. 

LOBSTER COLD. 

It is frequently eaten in this way, with a dressing of vinegar, mus- 
tard, sweet oil, and a little salt and cayenne. 

The meat of the lobster must be minced very fine. 

TO COOK TERRAPINS. 

This is a favourite dish for suppers and parties; and, when well 
cooked, they are certainly very delicious. Many persons in Philadel- 
phia have made themselves famous for cooking this article alone. Mrs. 
Rubicam, who during her lifetime always stood first in that way, pre- 
pared them as follows: — Put the terrapins alive in a pot of boiling 
water, where they must remain until they are quite dead. You then 
divest them of their outer skin and toe-nails; and, after washing them 
in warm water, boil them again until they become quite tender, adding 
a handful of salt to the water. Having satisfied yourself of their being 
perfectly tender, take off the shells and clean the terrapins very care- 
fully, removing the sand-bag and gall without breaking them. Then 
cut the meat and entrails into small pieces, and put into a saucepan, 
adding the juice which has been given out in cutting them up, but no 
water, and season with salt, cayenne, and black pepper, to your taste ; 
adding a quarter of a pound of good butter to each terrapin, and a hand- 
ful of flour for thickening. After stirring a short time, add four or five 
tablespoonsful of cream, and a half pint of good Madeira to every four 
terrapins, and serve hot in a deep dish. Our own cook has been in the 
habit of putting in a very little mace, a large tablespoonful of mustard, 
and ten drops of the gall ; and, just before serving, adding the yolks of 
four hard boiled eggs. During the stewing, particular attention must 
be paid to stirring the preparation frequently ; and it must be borne in 
mind, that terrapins cannot possibly be too hot. — Sanderson.'] 

OYSTERS. 

In season from September to April. 
The old-fashioned plan of feeding oysters with a sprinkling of oat- 
meal or flour, in addition to the salt and water to which they were com- 
mitted, has long been rejected by all genuine amateurs of these nutri- 
tious and excellent fish, who consider the plumpness which the oysters 
are supposed to gain from the process but poor compensation for the fla- 
vour which they are sure to lose. To cleanse them when they first 
come up from the beds, and to keep them in good condition for four or 



CHAP. II.] FISH. 81 

five days, they only require to be covered with cold water, with five 
ounces of salt to the gallon dissolved in it before it is poured on them : 
this should be changed with regularity every twenty-four hours. By 
following this plan with exactness they may be kept alive from a week 
to ten days, but will remain in perfect condition scarcely more than 
half that time. Oysters should be eaten always the instant they are 
opened. They are served often before the soup, in the first course of a 
dinner, left upon their shells, and arranged usually in as many plates as 
there are guests at table. 

TO STEW OYSTERS. 

A pint of small plump oysters will be sufficient for quite a moderate- 
sized dish, but twice as many will be required for a large one. Let 
them be very carefully opened, and not mangled in the slightest degree ; 
wash them free from grit in their own strained liquor, lay them into a 
very clean stewpan or well-tinned saucepan, strain the liquor a second 
time, pour it on them, and heat them slowly in it. When they are just 
beginning to simmer, lift them out with a slice or a bored w 7 ooden spoon, 
and take off the beards ; add to the liquor a quarter-pint of good cream, 
a seasoning of pounded mace and cayenne, and a little salt, and when it 
boils, stir in from one to two ounces of good butter, smoothly mixed with 
a large teaspoonful of flour ; continue to stir the sauce until these are 
perfectly blended with it, then put in the oysters and let them remain 
by the side of the fire until they are very hot : they require so little 
cooking, that if kept for four or five minutes nearly simmering, they 
will be ready for table, and they are quickly hardened by being allowed 
to boil, or by too much stewing. Serve them garnished with pale fried 
sippets. Fried bread, see Chapter IV. 

Small plump oysters, 1 pint: their own liquor: brought slowly to the 
point of simmering. Cream, \ pint ; seasoning of pounded mace and 
cayenne; salt as needed; butter, 1 to 2 ounces; flour, 1 large tea- 
spoonful. 

06s. — A little lemon-juice should be stirred quickly into the stew 
just as it is taken from the fire. Another mode of preparing this dish 
is to add the strained liquor of the oysters to about an equal quantity of 
rich bechamel, with a little additional thickening; then to heat them 
in it, after having prepared and plumped them properly. Or, the beards 
of the fish may be stewed for half an hour in a little pale veal gravy, 
and this, when strained and mixed with the oyster-liquor, may be brought 
to the consistency of cream with the French thickening of Chapter VI., 
or, with flour and butter, then seasoned with spice as above : the pro- 
cess should be quite the same in all of these receipts, though the com- 
position of the sauce is varied. Essence of anchovies, or yolks of eggs 
can be added to the taste. 

TO SCALLOP OYSTERS. 

Large coarse oysters should never be dressed in this way. Select 
small plump ones for the purpose, let them be opened carefully, give 
them a scald in their own liquor, wash them in it free from grit, and 
beard them neatly. Butter the scallop shells and shake some fine bread- 
crumbs over them ; fill them with alternate layers of oysters, crumbs 
of bread, and fresh butter cut into small bits; pour in the oyster-liquor, 
after it lias been strained, put a thick, smooth layer of bread-crumbs on 



82 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. II. 

the top, moisten them with clarified butter, place the shells in a Dutch 
oven before a clear fire, and turn them often till the tops are equally 
and lightly browned : send them immediately to table. 

Some persons like a little white pepper or cayenne, and a flavouring 
of nutmeg added to the oysters ; others prefer pounded mace. French 
cooks recommend with them a mixture of minced mushrooms stewed 
in butter till quite tender, and sweet herbs finely chopped. The fish is 
t sometimes laid into the shells after having been bearded only. 

SCALLOPED OYSTERS A LA REINE. 

Plump and beard the oysters, after having rinsed them well in their 
own strained liquor ; add to this about an equal quantity of very rich 
white sauce, and thicken it, if needful, with a half-teaspoon ful of flour, 
mixed with a small slice of butter, or with as much arrow-root only; 
put in the oysters, and keep them at the point of simmering for three 
or four minutes; lay them into the shells, and cover the tops thickly 
with crumbs fried a delicate brown and well dried ; or heap over them 
instead, a layer of fine crumbs ; pour clarified butter on them, and brown 
them with a salamander. 

OYSTER SAUSAGES. 

Beard, rinse well in their strained liquor, and mince, but not finely, 
three dozens and a half of plump oysters, and mix them with ten ounces 
of fine bread-crumbs, and ten of beef-suet chopped extremely small ; 
add a saltspoonful of salt, and one of pepper, or less than half the quan- 
tity of cayenne, twice as much pounded mace, and the third of a small 
nutmeg grated ; moisten the whole with two unbeaten eggs, or with 
the yolks only of three, and a dessertspoonful of the whites. When 
these ingredients have been well worked together, and are perfectly 
blended, set the mixture in a cool place for two or three hours before it 
is used ; make it into the form of small sausages or sausage-cakes, flour 
and fry them in butter of a fine light brown; or throw them into boiling 
water for three minutes, drain, and let them become cold, dip them into 
egg and bread-crumbs, and broil them gently until they are lightly co- 
loured. A small bit should be cooked and tasted before the whole is 
put aside, that the seasoning may be heightened if required. The sau- 
sages thus made are very good. 

Small plump oysters, 3^ dozens; bread-crumbs, 10 ozs. ; beef-suet, 
lOozs. ; seasoning of salt, cayenne, pounded mace, and nutmeg; un- 
beaten eggs 2, or yolks of 3. 

Obs. — The fingers should be well floured for making up these sau- 
sages. 

TO FRY OYSTERS. 

They should be large for this purpose. Simmer them for a couple 
of minutes in their own liquor, beard and dry them in a cloth, dredge 
them lightly with flour, dip them in egg and fine bread-crumbs, and fry 
them a delicate brown in boiling lard ; or make a thick batter with eggs 
and flour, season it with plenty of mace and white pepper, dip the oys- 
ters in and then fry them. 

OYSTERS AU GRATIN. 

Take the best oysters you can find, and dry them on a napkin ; you 
then place them on a silver shell, made expressly for the purpose, or 
fine, large, deep oyster shells, which should be well cleaned, placing in 



CHAP. III.] GRAVIES. S3 

them four or six oysters, according to their size ; season with salt, pep- 
per, nutmeg 1 , parsley, mushrooms hashed very fine, a small quantity of 
bread-crumbs, with which the surface of the oysters must be covered, 
placing on top of all a small piece of the best butter. Then put them 
in a hot oven, and let them remain until they acquire a golden colour 
Serve them hot. 

BROILED OYSTERS. 

The oysters should be the largest and finest you can get. Prepare 
your gridiron, which should be a double one made of wire, by rubbing 
with butter, and having placed your oysters so that they will all receive 
the heat equally, set them over a brisk fire, and broil both sides without 
burning them. Let them be served hot, with a small lump of fresh 
butter, pepper and salt, added to them. 

ANCHOVIES FRIED IN BATTER. 

Scrape very clean a dozen or more of fine anchovies, and soak them 
in plenty of spring water from two to six hours; then wipe them dry, 
open them, and take out the back-bones, without dividing the fish. 
Season the insides highly with cayenne, close the anchovies, dip them 
into the French batter of Chapter VI., or into a light English batter, 
and fry them a pale amber-colour : in from four to five minutes they 
will be quite sufficiently done. 



CHAPTER III. 

GRAVIES. 

INTRODUCTORY REMARKS. 




Gravies are not often required 
either in great variety, or in abun- 
dant quantities, when only a mode- 
rate table is kept, and a clever cook 
will manage to supply, at a trifling 
cost, all that is generally needed 
for plain family dinners; while an Gravy Kettle, 

unskilful or extravagant one will render them sources of unbounded 
expense.* But however small the proportions in which they are made, 
their quality should be particularly attended to, and they should be well 
adapted in flavour to the dishes they are to accompany. For some, a 
high degree of savour is desirable ; but for fricassees, and other prepara- 
tions of delicate white meats, this should be avoided, and a soft, smooth 
sauce of refined flavour should be used in preference to any of more 
piquant relish. 

Instead of fryino- the ingredients for brown gravies, which is usually 
done in common English kitchens, French cooks pour to them at first a 

* We know of an instance of a cook who stewed down two or three pounds of 
beef to make gravy for a single brace of partridges; and who complained of the 
meanness of her employers (who were by no means affluent) because this was object- 



84 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. III. 

small quantity of liquid, which is reduced by rapid boiling- to what is 
technically called glaze ; particular directions for which will be found 
in the next receipt to this, and also at pages 43 and 90. When the 
glaze has acquired the proper colour, boiling' broth should be added in 
small portions, and well shaken round the stewpan to detach it entire- 
ly ; the meat may then be stewed gently for three or four hours with a 
few mushrooms, should they be at hand, a bunch of parsley, and some 
green onions. 

A thick slice or two of an unboiled ham is an almost indispensable 
addition to rich soup or gravy ; and to supply it in the most economical 
manner, a large, highly cured one, or more, not over fatted, should be 
kept for the purpose, and cut as required. The bones of undressed 
meat will supply almost, or quite as good gravy-stock as the meat itself, 
if well boiled down, particularly those of the loin, or neck of veal: and 
as the flesh of these may be dressed in many ways advantageously 
without them, the whole joint may be turned to excellent account by so 
dividing it. 

The necks of poultry, with the feet properly skinned, a few herbs, a 
morsel or two of ham or of lean bacon, and such slight flavourings be- 
side as the spice-box can supply, with a few drops of good mushroom 
catsup, will of themselves, if well managed, produce sufficient gravy to 
serve with the birds from which they are taken ; and if not wanted for 
the purpose, they should always be stewed down, or thrown into the stock- 
pot, for which the shank-bones of legs of mutton, and all trimmings of 
meat should likewise be reserved. Excellent broth tor the sick or for 
the needy, may also be made of them at little cost, when they are not 
required for other uses. 

To deepen the colour of gravies, the thick mushroom pressings of 
Chapter V., or a little soy (when its flavour is admissible), or cavice, 
or Harvey's sauce* may be added to it ; and for some dishes, a glass of 
claret, or of port wine. 

Vermicelli, or rasped cocoa-nut, lightly, and very gently browned in 
a small quantity of butter, will both thicken and enrich them, if about 
an ounce of either to the pint of gravy be stewed gently in it from half 
an hour to an hour, and then strained out. 

All the ingredients indicated at page 39, for giving consistency to 
soups, will answer equally for gravies, which should not, however, be 
too much thickened, particularly with the unwholesome mixture of flour 
and butter, so commonly used for the purpose. Arrow-root, or rice- 
flour, or common flour gradually browned in a slow oven, are much bet- 
ter suited to a delicate stomach. No particle of fat should ever be per- 
ceptible upon them when they are sent to table ; and when it cannot 
be removed by skimming, they should be allowed to become sufficiently 
cold for it to congeal, and be taken off at once without trouble. It may 
be cleared from such as have not been thickened, by passing them 
through a closely woven cloth, which has previously been laid into, and 
well wrung from, some cold water. 

TO HEIGHTEN THE COLOUR AND THE FLAVOUR OF GRAVIES. 

This is best done by the directions given for making Espagnole. An 

* Harvey's sauce, cavice, and.voy are very little known in America; these flavourings, 
when named, may be dispensed with, or pepper sauce or tomato sauce substituted 
instead. v 



CHAP. III.] GRAVIES. 85 

ounce or two of the lean of unboiled ham, cut into dice and coloured 
slowly in a small stewpan, or smoothly tinned iron saucepan, with less 
than an ounce of butter, a blade of mace, two or three cloves, a bay- 
leaf, a few small sprigs of savoury herbs, and an eschalot or two, or 
about a teaspoonful of minced onion, and a little young" parsley root, 
when it can be had, will convert common shin of beef stock, or even 
strong broth, into an excellent gravy, if it be gradually added to them 
after they have stewed slowly for quite half an hour, and then boiled 
with them for twenty minutes or more. The liquid should not be mixed 
with the other ingredients until the side of the stewpan is coloured of a 
reddish brown ; and should any thickening be required, a teaspoonful of 
flour should be stirred in well, and simmered for three or four minutes 
before the stock is added : the pan should be strongly shaken round after- 
wards to detach the browning from it, and this must be done often while 
the ham is stewing. 

06s. — The cook who is not acquainted with this mode of preparing 
or enriching gravies, will do well to make herself acquainted with it ; 
as it presents no difficulties, and is exceedingly convenient and advan- 
tageous when they are wanted in small quantities, very highly fla- 
voured and well coloured. An unboiled -ham, kept in cut, will be found, 
as we have already said, a great economy for this, and other purposes, 
saving much of the expense commonly incurred for gravy-meats. As 
eschalots, when sparingly used, impart a much finer savour than onions, 
though they are not commonly so much used in England, we would re- 
commend that a small store of them should always be kept. 

shin of beef stock, (for Gravies.) 
There is no better foundation for strong gravies than shin of beef 
stewed down to a jelly (which it easily becomes), with the addition only 
of some spice, a bunch of savoury herbs, and a moderate proportion of 
salt; this, if kept in a cool larder, boiled softly for two or three minutes 
every second or third day, and each time put into a clean, well-scalded 
pan, will remain good for many days, and may easily be converted into 
excellent soup or gravy. Let the bone be broken in one or two places, 
take out the marrow, which, if not wanted for immediate use, should be 
clarified, and stored for future occasions; put a pint and a half of cold 
water to the pound of beef, and stew it very gently indeed for six or 
seven hours, or even longer should the meat not then be quite in frag- 
ments. The bones of calf's feet which have been boiled down for jelly, 
the liquor in which the head has been cooked, and any remains of ham 
quite freed from the smoky parts, from rust and fat, will be serviceable 
additions to this stock. A couple of pounds of the neck of beef may be 
added to six of the shin with very good effect ; but for white soup or 
sauces this is better avoided. 

Shin of beef, 6 lbs. ; water, 9 pints ; salt, 1 oz. ; large bunch savoury 
herbs ; peppercorns, 1 teaspoonful ; mace, 2 blades. 

RICH PALE VEAL GRAVY, OR, CONSOMMEE. 

The French, who have always at hand their stock-pot of good bouil- 
lon (beef soup or broth), make great use of it in preparing their gra- 
vies. It is added instead of water to the fresh meat, and when this, in 
somewhat large proportions, is boiled down in it, with the addition only of 
a bunch of parsley, a few green onions, and a moderate seasoning of 



86 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. III. 

salt, a strong- and very pure-flavoured pale gravy is produced. When 
the best joints of fowls, or of partridges have been taken for fricassees 
or cutlets, the remainder may be stewed with a pound or two of veal 
into a consommee, which then takes the name of chicken or of game 
gravy. For a large dinner it is always desirable to have in readiness 
such stock as can easily and quickly be converted into white and other 
sauces. To make this, arrange a slice or two of lean ham in a stew- 
pan or saucepan with three pounds of the neck of veal once or twice 
divided (unless the thick fleshy part of the knuckle can be had), and 
pour to them three full pints of strong beef or veal broth ; or if this 
cannot conveniently be done, increase the proportion of meat or dimin- 
ish that of the liquid, substituting water for the broth, throw in some 
salt after the boiling has commenced, and the gravy has been well skim- 
med, with one mild onion, a bunch of savoury herbs, a little celery, if 
in season, a carrot, a blade of mace, and a half-saltspoonful of pepper- 
corns; stew these very gently for four hours; then, should the meat be 
quite in fragments, strain off the gravy, and let it become sufficiently 
cold to allow the fat to be entirely cleared from it. A handful of nicely 
prepared mushroom-buttons will much improve its flavour; and the 
bones of boiled calf's feet, or the fresh ones of fowls will be found ex- 
cellent additions to it. A better method of making- it, when time and 
trouble are not regarded, is to heat the meat, which ought then to be 
free of bones, quite through, with from a quarter to half a pint of broth 
only, and when on probing it with the point of a knife no blood issues 
from it, and it has been turned and equally done, to moisten it with the 
remainder of the broth, which should be boiling. 

Lean of ham, 6 to 8 ozs. ; neck or knuckle of veal, 3 lbs. ; strong 
broth, 3 pints, (or veal, 4 lbs., and water, 3 pints) ; salt ; bunch of sa- 
voury herbs ; mild onion, 1 ; carrot, 1 large or 2 small ; celery, ^ small 
head ; mace, 1 large blade ; peppercorns, ^ saltspoonful : 4 hours or 
more. Or: ham, A lb.; veal, 4 lbs.; broth, third of a pint: nearly 1 
hour. Additional broth, 3 pints: 3^ to 4J hours. 

RICH DEEP-COLOURED VEAL GRAVY. 

Lay into a large thick stewpan or saucepan, from half to three quar- 
ters of a pound of undressed ham, freed entirely from fat, and from the 
smoked edges, and sliced half an inch thick ; on this place about four 
pounds of lean veal, cut from the best part of the knuckle or from the 
neck (part of the fillet, which in France is often used for it instead, not 
being generally purchasable here, the butchers seldom dividing the 
joint); pour to them about half a pint of good broth,* and place the pan 
over a brisk fire until it is well reduced, then thrust a knife into the 
meat, and continue the stewing more gently until a glaze is formed as 
we have described at page 90. The latter part of the process must be 
very slow ; the stewpan must be frequently shaken, and the gravy close- 
ly w r atched that it may not burn; when it is of a fine deep amber co- 
lour, pour in sufficient boilinp; broth to cover the meat, add a bunch of 
parsley, and a few mushrooms and green onions. A blade or two of 
mace, a few white peppercorns, and a head of celery, would, we think, 

* When there is no provision of this in the house, the quantity required may be made 
with a small quantity of beef, and the trimmings of the veal, by the directions for 
Bouillon, page 41. 



CHAP. III.] GRAVIES. 87 

be very admissible additions to this gravy, but it is extremely good with- 
out Half the quantity can be made, but it will then be rather more 
troublesome to manage. 

Undressed ham, 8 to 12 ozs. ; lean veal, 4 lbs. ; broth, | pint: 1 to 2 
hours. Broth, 3 to 4 pints ; bunch of parsley and green onions ; mush- 
rooms, ^ to ^ pint: H to 2 hours. 

good beef or veal gravy; (English receipt.) 

Flour and fry lightly in a bit of good butter a couple of pounds of 
either beef or veal; drain the meat well from the fat, and lay it into a 
small thick stewpan or iron saucepan ; pour to it a quart of boiling wa- 
ter; add, after it has been well skimmed and salted, a large mild onion 
sliced, very delicately fried, and laid on a sieve to drain, a carrot also 
sliced, a small bunch of thyme and parsley, a blade of mace and a few 
peppercorns; stew these gently for three hours or more, pass the gravy 
through a sieve into a clean pan, and when it is quite cold clear it en- 
tirely from fat, heat as much as is wanted for table, and if not suffi- 
ciently thick stir into it from half to a whole teaspoonful of arrow-root 
mixed with a little mushroom catsup. 

Beef or veal, 2 lbs. ; water, 2 pints ; fried onion, 1 large ; carrot, 1 ; 
small bunch of herbs ; salt, 1 small teaspoonful or more ; mace, 1 blade ; 
peppercorns, 20: 3 to 3 J hours. 

A RICH ExXGLISH BROWN GRAVY. 

Brown lightly and carefully from four to six ounces of lean ham, 
thickly sliced and cut into large dice ; lift these out, and put them into 
the pan in which the gravy is to be made ; next, fry lightly also, a cou- 
ple of pounds of neck of beef, dredged moderately with flour, and slight- 
ly with pepper ; put this when it is done over the ham ; and then brown 
gently, and add to them one not large common onion. Pour over these 
ingredients a quart of boiling water, or of weak but well-flavoured broth, 
bring the whole slowly to a boil, clear off the scum with great care, 
throw in'a saltspoonful of salt, four cloves, a blade of mace, twenty corns 
of pepper, a bunch of savoury herbs, a carrot, and a few slices of celery : 
these last two may be fried or not, as is most convenient. Boil the 
gr&vy very softly until it is reduced to little more than a pint ; strain, 
and set it by until the fat can be taken from it. Heat it anew, add more 
salt if needed, and a little mushroom catsup, cayenne-vinegar, or what- 
ever flavouring it may require for the dish with which it is to be served : 
it will seldom need any thickening. A dozen small mushrooms prepared 
as for pickling, may be added to it at first with advantage. Half this 
quantity of gravy will be sufficient for a single tureen, and the econo- 
mist can diminish a little the proportion of meat when it is thought too 
much. 

GRAVY FOR VENISON. 

If possible, let this be made with a little of the neck, or of any odd 
trimmings of the venison itself. Cut down the meat small, and let it 
stand over a slow frre until the juices are well drawn out; then to each 
pound of it add a pint and a quarter of boiling water ; throw in a small 
half-teaspoon ful of salt, and eight or ten corns of pepper ; skim it tho- 
roughly, and let it boil two hours and a half: then strain it, let it cool, 



88 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAF. III. 

take off every particle of fat, give it a minute's simmer, and send it very 
hot to table. 

Neck, or other trimmings of venison, 1 lb. ; water, l£ pint; salt, small 
\ teaspoonful ; peppercorns, 8 or 10 : 2| hours. 

SWEET SAUCE, OR GRAVY FOR VENISON. 

Add to a quarter pint of common venison gravy a couple of glasses 
of port wine or claret, and half an ounce of sugar in lumps. 

espagnole (spanish sauce) ; (a highly flavoured gravy.) 
Dissolve a couple of ounces of good butter in a thick stewpan or sauce- 
pan, throw in from four to six sliced eschalots, four ounces of the lean 
of an undressed ham, three ounces of carrot, cut in small dice, one bay 
leaf, two or three branches of parsley, and one or two of thyme, but 
these last must be small ; three cloves, a blade of mace, and a dozen 
corns of pepper ; add part of a root of parsley, if it be at hand, and keep 
the whole stirred or shaken over a moderate fire for twenty minutes, 
then add by degrees one pint of very strong veal stock or gravy, and 
stew the whole gently from thirty to forty minutes ; strain it, skim off 
the fat, and it will be ready to serve. 

Butter, 2 ozs. ; eschalots, 4 to 6 ; lean of undressed ham, 4 ozs. ; car- 
rots, 3 ozs. ; bay leaf, 1 ; little thyme and parsley, in branches ; cloves, 3 ; 
mace, 1 blade ; peppercorns, 12 ; little parsley root : fried gently, 20 
minutes. Strong veal stock, or gravy, 1 pint: stewed very softly, 30 to 
40 minutes. 

GRAVY IN HASTE. 

Chop fine a few bits of lean meat, a small onion, a few slices of carrot 
and turnip, and a little thyme and parsley; put these with half an ounce 
of butter into a thick saucepan, and keep them stirred until they are 
slightly browned ; add a little spice, and water in the proportion of a 
pint to a pound of meat ; clear the gravy from scum, let it boil half an 
hour, then strain it for use. 

Meat, 1 lb. ; 1 small onion ; little carrot, turnip, thyme, and parsley ; 
butter, ^ oz. ; cloves, 6 ; corns of pepper, 12 ; water, 1 pint : ^ hour. 

CHEAP GRAVY FOR A ROAST FOWL. 

When there is neither broth nor gravy to be had, nor meat of which 
either can be made, boil the neck of the fowl after having cut it small, 
in half a pint of water with any slight seasonings of spice or herbs, or 
with a little salt and pepper only; it should stew very softly for an hour 
or more, or the quantity will be too much reduced. When the bird is 
just ready for table, take the gravy from the dripping-pan, and drain 
off the fat from it as closely as possible ; strain the liquor from the neck 
to it, mixing them smoothly, pass the gravy again through the strainer, 
heat it, add salt and pepper or cayenne, if needed, and serve it extreme- 
ly hot. When this is done, the fowl should be basted with good butter 
only, and well floured when it is first laid to the fire. Many cooks 
always mix the gravy from the pan when game is roasted with that 
which they send to table with it, as they think that this enriches the 
flavour; but it is not always considered an improvement by the eaters. 

Neck of fowl; water, i pint; pepper, salt (little vegetable and spice 
at choice) : stewed gently, 1 hour ; strained, stirred to the gravy of the 
roast, well cleared from fat. 



CHAP. III.] GRAVIES. 89 

ANOTHER CHEAP GRAVY FOR A FOWL. 

A little good broth added to half a dozen dice of lean ham, lightly 
browned in a morsel of butter, with half a dozen corns of pepper and a 
small branch or two of parsley, and stewed for half an hour, will make 
excellent gravy of a common kind. When there is no broth, the neck 
of the chicken must be stewed down to supply its place. 

QUITE COMMON BROWN GRAVY. 

Cut a sheep's melt into slices half an inch thick, flour them lightly, 
and either fry them a pale brown, or dissolve a small slice of butter in 
a thick saucepan, lay them in and shake them over a moderate fire until 
they have taken sufficient colour; then pour gradually to them between 
half and three quarters of a pint of boiling water; add a not very full 
seasoning of salt and pepper, and stew the gravy very gently tor up- 
wards of an hour and a half. Strain, and skim off the tat, and it will be 
ready for table. When it is to accompany ducks or geese, brown a 
minced onion with the melt, and add a sprig of lemon thyme. This, 
though a very cheap, is a rich gravy in flavour; but it would be infi- 
nitely improved by using for it equal parts of neck of beef (or of beef 
steak) and sheep's melt ; or the bone and the lean only of a thick mut- 
ton cutlet. A little catsup, or a very small quantity of spice, will like- 
wise be good additions to it; and a slice or two of a root of celery, and 
of a carrot, might be boiled down with the meat. A bit or two of lean 
ham will heighten greatly the flavour of all brown gravies. 

1 sheep's melt ; butter, J to 1 oz. ; parsley, 1 or 2 small branches : 
gently browned. Boiling water, \ to f pint; pepper, salt: 1^ hour, or 
more. Slowly stewed. (Onion, carrot, celery, mushroom catsup, little 
spice, or bit or two of lean ham at choice.) 

Obs. — Part of an ox's melt is sometimes used for gravy in common 
cookery, but it is, we should say, too coarse for the purpose, and the fla- 
vour is peculiarly, and we think disagreeably, sweet; but a skilful cook, 
may perhaps, by artificial means, render it more palatable. 

Obs. 2. — The best gravies possible, may be made with the bones of 
all uncooked meat except pork. 

GRAVY OR SAUCE FOR A GOOSE. 

Mince, and brown in a small saucepan, with a slice of butter, two 
ounces of mild onion. When it begins to brown, stir to it a teaspoonful 
of flour, and in five or six minutes afterwards, pour in by degrees the 
third of a pint of good brown gravy; let this simmer fifteen minutes; 
strain it; bring it again to the point of boiling, and add to it a teaspoon- 
ful of made-mustard mixed well with a glass of port wine. Season it 
with cayenne pepper, and salt, if this last be needed. Do not let the 
sauce boil after the wine is added, but serve it very hot. 

Onions, 2 ozs. ; butter, 1^ oz. : 10 to 15 minutes. Flour, 1 teaspoon- 
ful: 5 to 6 minutes. Gravy, § pint: 15 minutes. Mustard, 1 tea- 
spoonful; port wine, 1 glassful ; cayenne pepper ; salt. See also Chris- 
topher North's own sauce. 

ORANGE GRAVY, FOR WILD FOWL. 

Boil for about ten 'minutes, in half a pint of rich and highly-flavoured 
brown gravy, or espagnole, half the rind of an orange, pared as thin as 
possible, and a small strip of lemon-rind, with a bit of sugar the size of 



90 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. III. 

a hazel-nut. Strain it off, add to it a quarter pint of port or claret, the 
juice of half a lemon, and a tablespoonful of orange-juice ; season it with 
cayenne, and serve it as hot as possible. 

Gravy, ^ pint ; ^ the rind of an orange ; lemon-peel, 1 small strip ; 
sugar, size of hazel-nut : 10 minutes. Juice of \ a lemon : orange- 
juice, 1 tablespoonful; cayenne. See also Christopher North's own 
sauce. 

MEAT JELLIES FOR PIES AND SAUCES. 

A very firm meat jelly is easily made by stewing slowly down equal 
parts of shin of beef, and knuckle or neck of veal, with a pint of cold 
water to each pound of meat; but to give it flavour, some thick slices 
of lean unboiled ham should be added to it, two or three carrots, some 
spice, a bunch of parsley, one mild onion, or more, and a moderate quan- 
tity of salt; or part of the meat may be omitted, and a calf 's-head, or the 
scalp of one, very advantageously substituted for it, though the flavouring 
must then be heightened, because, though very gelatinous, these are in 
themselves exceedingly insipid to the taste. If rapidly boiled, the jelly 
will not be clear, and it will be difficult to render it so without clarify- 
ing it with the whites of eggs, which it ought never to require ; if very 
gently stewed, on the contrary, it will only need to be passed through a 
fine sieve, or cloth. The fat must be carefully removed, after it is quite 
cold. The shin of beef recommended for this and other receipts, should 
be from the middle of the leg of young heifer beef, not of that which is 
large and coarse. 

Middle of small shin of beef, 3 lbs. ; knuckle or neck of veal, 3 lbs. ; 
lean of ham, \ lb. ; water, 3 quarts ; carrots, 3 large, or 2 small ; bunch 
of parsley ; 1 mild onion, stuck with 8 cloves ; 2 small bay-leaves ; 1 
large blade of mace; small saltspoonful of peppercorns ; salt, | oz. (more 
if needed): 5 to 6 hours' very gentle stewing. 

Obs. — A finer jelly may be made by using a larger proportion of veal 
than of beef, and by adding clear beef or veal broth to it instead of water, 
in a small proportion at first, as directed in the receipt for consommee, 
see page 85, and by pouring in the remainder when the meat is heated 
through. The necks of poultry, any inferior joints of them omitted from 
a fricassee, or other dish, or an old fowl, will further improve it much ; 
an eschalot or two may at choice be boiled down in it, instead of the 
onion, but the flavour should be scarcely perceptible. 

A CHEAPER MEAT JELLY. 

One calf's foot, a pound and a half or two pounds of neck of veal or 
beef, a small onion, a carrot, a bunch of parsley, a little spice, a bit oi 
two of quite lean ham, dressed or undressed, and five half pints of watei, 
boiled very slowly for five or six hours will give a strong, though not a 
highly flavoured jelly. More ham, any bones of unboiled meat, poultry, 
or game will, in this respect, improve it; and the liquor in which fowls 
or veal have been boiled for table should, when at hand, be used for it 
instead of water. These jellies keep much better and longer when no 
vegetables are stewed down in them. 

GLAZE. 

This is merely strong, clear gravy or jelly boiled quickly down to 
the consistency of thin cream; but this reduction must be carefully 



CHAP. III. GRAVIES. 91 

managed that the glaze may be brought to the proper point without 
being burned ; it must be attentively watched, and stirred without being 
quitted for a moment from the time of its beginning to thicken; when 
it has reached the proper degree of boiling, it will jelly in dropping from 
the spoon, like preserve, and should then be poured out immediately, or 
it will burn. When wanted for use, melt it gently by placing the ves- 
sel which contains it (see article Glazing, Chapter VII.) in a pan of 
coiling water, and with a paste-brush lay it on to the meat, upon which 
it will form a sort of clear varnish. In consequence of the very great 
reduction which it undergoes, salt should be added to it sparingly when 
it is made. Any kind of stock may be boiled down to glaze ; but unless 
it be strong, a pint will afford but a spoonful or two; a small quantity 
of it, however, is generally sufficient, unless a large repast is to be 
served. Two or three layers must be given to each joint. The jellies 
which precede this will answer for it extremely well ; and it may be 
made also with shin of beef stock, for common occasions, when no other 
is at hand. 

ASPIC, OR CLEAR SAVOURY-JELLY. 

Boil a couple of calf's feet, with three or four pounds of knuckle of 
veal, three-quarters of a pound of lean ham, two large onions, three 
whole carrots, and a large bunch of herbs, in a gallon of water, till it is 
reduced more than half. Strain it off; when perfectly cold, remove 
every particle of fat and sediment, and put the jelly into a very clean 
stewpan, with four whites of eggs well beaten ; keep it stirred until it 
is nearly boiling ; then place it by the side of the fire to simmer for a 
quarter of an hour. Let it settle, and pour it through a jelly-bag until 
it is quite clear. Add, when it first begins to boil, three blades of mace, 
a teaspoonful of white peppercorns, and sufficient salt to flavour it pro- 
perly, allowing for the ham, and the reduction. French cooks flavour 
this jelly with caragon vinegar when it is clarified : cold poultry, game, 
and fish are served in, or garnished with it; when it is to be moulded, 
with slices of boiled tongue laid in the middle in a chain, or carved fowl, 
or aught else, it will be well to throw in a pinch of isinglass; and hams 
are often placed on a thick layer of it roughed, and then covered en- 
tirely with more for large breakfasts, or cold repasts. It is also used as 
gravy for meat pies. 

Calfs feet, 2 ; veal, 4 lbs. ; ham, § lb. ; onions, 2 ; carrots, 3 ; herbs, 
large bunch ; mace, 3 blades ; white whole pepper, 1 teaspoonful ; water, 
1 gallon : 5 to 6 hours. Whites of eggs, 4 : 15 minutes. 



92 



MODERN COOKERY. 



[chap. IV. 



CHAPTER IV. 



SAUCES. 




INTRODUCTORY REMARKS. 

The difference between good 
and bad cookery can scarcely 
be more strikingly shown than 
in the manner in which sauces 
are prepared and served. If 
well made, appropriate to the 
dishes they accompany, and sent 
to table with them as hot as pos- 
Bain Marie, or Water Bath. sible, they not only give a height- 

ened relish to a dinner, but they prove that both skill and taste have 
have been exerted in its arrangements. When coarsely or carelessly 
prepared, on the contrary, as they too often are, they greatly discredit 
the cook, and are anything but acceptable to the eaters. Melted butter, 
the most common of all — the " one sauce" of England and America, 
which excites the raillery of foreigners — is frequently found to be such 
an intolerable compound, either oiled or lumpy, or composed principally 
of flour and water, that it says but little for the state of cookery amongst 
us. We trust that the receipts in the present chapter are so clearly 
given, that if strictly followed they will materially assist the learner in 
preparing tolerably palatable sauces at the least. The cut at the com- 
mencement of the chapter exhibits the vessel called a bain marie, in 
which saucepans are placed when it is necessary to keep their contents 
not without allowing them to boil : it is extremely useful when dinners 
<ire delayed after they are ready to serve. 

TO THICKEN SAUCES. 

When this is done with the yolks of eggs, they should first, be well 
beaten, and then mixed with a spoonful of cold stock, should it be at 
hand, and with one or two of the boiling sauce, which should be stirred 
very quickly to them, and they must in turn be stirred briskly to the 
sauce, which may be held over the fire, and well shaken for an instant 
afterwards, but never placed upon it, nor allowed to boil. 

To the mux or French thickening (which follows.) the gravy or other 
liquid which is to be mixed with it should be poured boiling, and in 
small quantities, the saucepan being often well shaken round, and the 
sauce made to boil up after each portion is added. If this precaution 
be observed, the butter will never float upon the surface, but the whole 
will be well and smoothly blended : it will otherwise be difficult to clear 
the sauce from it perfectly. 

For invalids, or persons who object to butter in their soups or sauces, 
flour only, mixed to a smooth batter and stirred into the boiling liquid, 
may be substituted for other thickening : arrow-root also, used in the 
same way, will answer even better than flour. 

FRENCH THICKENING ; OR, BROWN ROUX. 

For ordinary purposes this may be made as it is wanted for use ; bu? 



CHAP. IV.] SAUCES. 93 

when it is required for various dishes at the same time, or for cookery 
upon a large scale, it can be prepared at once in sufficient quantity to 
last for several days, and it will remain good for some time. Dissolve 
with a very gentle degree of heat, half a pound of good butter, then 
draw it from the fire, skim it well, give time for it to settle, pour it gen- 
tly from the sediment into a very clean frying-pan, and place it over a 
slow but clear fire. Put into a dredging box about seven ounces of fine 
dry flour; add it gradually to the butter, shake the pan often as it is 
thrown in, and keep the thickening constantly stirred until it has ac- 
quired a clear light brown colour. It should be very slowly and equally 
done, or its flavour will be unpleasant. Pour it into a jar, and stir a 
spoonful or two as it is needed into boiling soup or gravy. When the 
butter is not clarified it will absorb an additional ounce of flour, the 
whole of which ought to be fine and dry. This thickening may be 
made in a well-tinned stewpan even better than in a frying-pan, and if 
simmered over a coal fire it should be placed high above it, and well 
guarded from smoke. 

WHITE ROUX, OR FRENCH THICKENING. 

Proceed exactly as for the preceding receipt, but dredge in the flour 
as soon as the butter is in full simmer, and be careful not to allow the 
thickening to take the slightest colour : this is used for white gravies 
or sauces. 

SAUCE TOURNEE, OR, PALE THICKENED GRAVY. 

Sauce tournee is nothing more than rich pale gravy made with veal 
or poultry (see consommee, page 85) and thickened with delicate white 
roux. The French give it a flavouring of mushrooms and green onions, 
by boiling some of each in it for about half an hour before the sauce is 
served ; it must then be strained previously to being dished. Either 
first dissolve an ounce of butter, and then dredge gradually to it three 
quarters of an ounce of flour, and proceed as for the preceding receipt; 
or blend the flour and butter perfectly with a knife, before they are 
thrown into the stewpan, and keep them stirred without ceasing over a 
clear and gentle fire until they have simmered for some minutes, then 
place the stewpan high over the fire, and shake it constantly until the 
roux has lost the raw taste of the flour; next, stir very gradually to it a 
pint of the gravy, which should be boiling : set it by the side of the 
stove for a few minutes and skim it thoroughly. 

Butter, 1 oz. ; flour, | oz. ; strong, pale gravy, seasoned with mush- 
rooms and green onions, 1 pint. 

Obs. 3. — With the addition of three or four yolks of very fresh eggs, 
mixed with a seasoning of mace, cayenne, and lemon-juice, this be- 
comes German sauce, now much used for fricassees, and other dishes ; 
and minced parsley (boiled) and cayenne vinegar, each in sufficient 
quantity to flavour it agreeably, convert it into a good fish sauce. 

BECHAMEL. 

This is a fine French white sauce, now very much served at good 
English tables. It may be made in various ways, and more or less 
expensively; but it should always be thick, smooth, and rich, though 
delicate in flavour. The most ready mode of preparing it, is to take 
nn equal proportion of very strong, pale veal gravy, and of good cream 



94 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. IV. 

(a pint of each, for example), and then by rapid boiling over a very 
clear fire, to reduce the gravy nearly half; next, to mix with part of 
the cream a tablespoonful of fine dry flour, to pour it to the remainder, 
when it boils, and to keep the whole stirred for five minutes or more 
over a slow fire, for if placed upon a fierce one, it would be liable to 
burn ; then to add the gravy, to stir and mix the sauce perfectly, and 
to simmer it for a few minutes longer. All the flavour should be given 
by the gravy, in which French cooks boil a handful of mushrooms, a 
few green onions, and some branches of parsley before it is reduced : 
but a good bechamel may be made without them, with a strong con- 
sommee. (See pale veal gravy, page 85) well reduced. 

Strong pale veal gravy (flavoured with mushrooms or not), 1 pint: 
reduced half. Rich cream, 1 pint; flour, 1 tablespoonful: 5 minutes. 
With gravy, 4 or 5 minutes. 

Obs. — Veloute, which is a rather thinner sauce or gravy, is made by 
simply well reducing the cream and stock separately, and then mixing 
them together without any thickening. 

COMMON BECHAMEL. 

Cut half a pound of veal, and a slice of lean ham into small dice, and 
stew them in butter, with vegetables, as directed in the foregoing re- 
ceipt : stir in the same proportion of flour, then add the milk, and let 
the sauce boil very gently for an hour. It should not be allowed to 
thicken too much before it is strained. 

Obs. — Common bechamel, with the addition of a spoonful of made- 
mustard, is an excellent sauce for boiled mutton. 

RICH MELTED BUTTER. 

This is more particularly required in general for lobster sauce, when 
it is to be served with turbot or brill, and for good oyster sauce as well. 
Salmon is itself so rich, that less butter is needed for it than for sauce 
which is to accompany a drier fish. Mix to a very smooth batter a 
dessertspoonful of flour, a half-saltspoonful of salt, and half a pint of 
cold water ; put these into a delicately clean saucepan, with from four 
to six ounces of well-flavoured butter, cut into small bits, and shake the 
sauce strongly round, almost without cessation, until the ingredients 
are perfectly blended, and it is on the point of boiling; let it simmer 
for two or three minutes, and it will be ready for use. The best French 
cooks recommend its not being allowed to boil, as they say it tastes less 
of flour if served when it is just at the point of simmering. 

Cold water, § pint; salt, § spoonful; flour, 1 dessertspoonful: 3 to 4 
minutes. Butter; 4 to 6 ozs. 

melted butter ; (a good common receipt.) 
Put into a basin a large teaspoonful of flour, and a little salt, then 
mix with them very gradually and very smoothly a quarter-pint of cold 
water ; turn these into a small clean saucepan, and shake or stir them 
constantly over a clear fire until they have boiled a couple of minutes, 
then add an ounce and a half of butter cut small, keep the sauce stirred 
until this is entirely dissolved, give the whole a minute's boil, and serve 
it quickly. The more usual mode is to put the butter in at first with 
the flour and water; but for inexperienced or unskilful cooks the safer 
plan is to follow the present receipt. 



CHAP. IV.] SAUCES. 95 

Water, £ pint; flour, 1 teaspoonful: 2 minutes. Butter, 1 J oz: 1 
minute. 

Obs. — To render this a rich sauce, increase or even double the pro- 
portion of butter. 

FRENCH MELTED BUTTER. 

Pour half a pint of good, but not very thick, boiling- melted butter, to 
the well-beaten yolks of two very fresh eggs, and stir them briskly as 
it is added ; put the sauce again into the saucepan, and shake it high 
over the fire for an instant, but do not allow it to boil, or it will curdle. 
Add a little lemon-juice or vinegar, and serve it immediately. 

NORFOLK SAUCE, OR, RICH MELTED BUTTER WITHOUT FLOUR. 

Put three tablespoonsful of water into a small saucepan, and when it 
boils add four ounces of fresh butter ; as soon as this is quite dissolved, 
take the saucepan from the fire and shake it round until the sauce 
looks thick and smooth. It must not be allowed to boil after the butter 
is added. 

Water, 3 tablespoonsful ; butter, 4 ozs. 

WHITE MELTED BUTTER. 

Thicken half a pint of new milk with rather less flour than is direct- 
ed for the common melted butter, or with a little arrowroot, and stir 
into it by degrees, after it has boiled, a couple of ounces of fresh butter 
cut small ; do not cease to stir the sauce until this is entirely dissolved, 
or it may become oiled, and float upon the top. Thin cream, substi 
tuted for the milk, and flavoured with a few strips of lemon-rind cut 
extremely thin, some salt, and a small quantity of pounded mace, if 
mixed with rather Jess flour, and the same proportion of butter, will 
make an excellent sauce to serve with fowls or other dishes, when no 
gravy is at hand to make white sauce in the usual way. 

BURNT BUTTER. 

Melt in a frying-pan three ounces of fresh butter, and keep it stirred 
slowly over a gentle fire until it is of a dark brown colour ; then pour 
to it a couple of tablespoonsful of good hoi vinegar, and season it with 
black pepper, and a little salt. In France, this is a favourite sauce 
with boiled skate, which is served with plenty of crisped parsley, in 
addition, strewed over it. 

Butter, 3 ozs. ; vinegar, 2 tablespoonsful ; pepper ; salt. 

CLARIFIED BUTTER. 

Put the butter into a very clean and well-tinned saucepan or ena- 
melled stewpan, and melt it gently over a clear fire; when it just 
begins to simmer, skim it thoroughly, draw it from the fire, and let it 
stand a few minutes that the butter-milk may sink to the bottom ; then 
pour it clear of the sediment through a muslin strainer or a fine hair- 
sieve; put it into jars, and store them in a cool place. Butter, thus 
prepared, will answer for all the ordinary purposes of cookery, and re- 
main good for a great length of time. In France, large quantities are 
melted down in autumn for winter use. The clarified butter ordered 
for the various receipts in this volume is merely dissolved with a gentle 
degree of heat in a small saucepan, skimmed, and poured out for use, 
leaving the thick sediment bohin 1. 



96 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. IV 

VERY GOOD EGG SAUCE. 

Boil four fresh eggs for quite fifteen minutes, then lay them intr 
plenty of fresh water, and let them remain until they are perfectly cold 
Break the shells by rolling them on a table, take them off, separate the 
whites from the yolks, and divide all of the latter into quarter-incr 
dice; mince two of the whites only, tolerably small, mix them lightly 
and stir them into the third of a pint of rich melted butter, or of white 
sauce : serve the whole as hot as possible. 

Eggs, 4: boiled 15 minutes, left till cold. The yolks of all, whites 
of 2 ; third of pint of good melted butter or white sauce. Salt as 
needed. 

COMMON EGG SAUCE. 

Boil a couple of eggs hard, and when they are quite cold cut the 
whites and yolks separately; mix them well, put them into a very hot 
tureen, and pour boiling to them a quarter-pint of melted butter: stir, 
and serve the sauce immediately. 

Whole eggs, 2; melted butter, £ pint. 

EGG SAUCE FOR CALF'S HEAD. 

This is a provincial sauce, served sometimes with fish, and with calf's 
head also. Thicken to the proper consistency with flour and butter 
some good pale veal gravy, throw into it when it boils from one to two 
large teaspoonsful of minced parsley, add a slight squeeze of lemon-juice, 
a little cayenne, and then the eggs. 

Veal gravy, | pint; flour, lh oz. ; butter, 2 ozs. ; minced parsley, 1 
dessertspoonful ; lemon-juice, 1 teaspoonful ; little cayenne ; eggs, 3 to 4. 

ENGLISH WHITE SAUCE. 

Boil softly in half a pint of well-flavoured pale veal gravy a few very 
thin strips of fresh lemon-rind, for just sufficient time to give their fla- 
vour to it; stir in a thickening of arrow-root, or of flour and butter; add 
salt if needed, and mix with the gravy a quarter-pint of boiling cream. 

Good pale veal gravy, ^ pint; third of rind of 1 lemon: 15 to 20 mi- 
nutes. Freshly pounded mace, third of saltspoonful ; butter, 1 to 2 ozs. ; 
flour, 1 teaspoonful (or arrow-root an equal quantity) ; cream, ± pint. 

Obs. — For the best kind of white sauce, see bechamel. 

VERY COMMON WHITE SAUCE. 

The neck and the feet of a fowl, nicely cleaned, and stewed down in 
half a pint of water, until it is reduced to less than a quarter-pint, w 7 ith 
a thin strip or two of lemon-rind, a small blade of mace, a small branch 
or two of parsley, a little salt, and half a dozen corns of pepper, then 
strained, thickened, and flavoured by the preceding receipt, and mixed 
with something more than half the quantity of cream, will answer for 
this sauce extremely well ; and if it be added, when made, to the liver 
of the chicken, previously boiled for six minutes in the gravy, then 
bruised to a smooth paste, and passed through a sieve, it. will become an 
excellent liver sauce. A little strained lemon-juice is generally added 
to it when it is ready to serve : it should be stirred very briskly in. 

DUTCH SAUCE. 

Put into a small saucepan the yolks of three fresh eggs, the juice of 
a large lemon, three ounces of butter, a little salt and nutmeg, and a 



CHAP. IV.] SAUCES. 97 

wineglassful of water. Hold the saucepan over a clear fire, and keep 
the sauce stirred until it nearly boils : a little cayenne may be added. 
The safest way of making all sauces that will curdle by being allowed 
to boil, is to put them into a jar, and to set the jar over the fire, in a 
saucepan of boiling water, and then to stir the ingredients constantly 
until the sauce is thickened sufficiently to serve. 

Yolks of eggs, 3; juice, 1 lemon; butter, 3 ozs.; little salt and nut- 
meg; water, 1 wineglassful; cayenne at pleasure. 

Obs. — A small cupful of veal gravy, mixed with plenty of blanched 
and chopped parsley, may be used instead of water for this sauce, when 
it is to be served with boiled veal, or with calf's head. 

FRICASSEE SAUCE. 

Stir briskly, but by degrees, to the well beaten yolks of two large, or 
of three small fresh eggs, half a pint of common English white sauce; 
put it again into the saucepan, give it a shake over the fire, but be ex- 
tremely careful not to allow it to boil, and just before it is served stir in 
a dessertspoonful of strained lemon-juice. When meat or chickens are 
fricasseed, they should be lifted from the saucepan with a slice, drained 
on it from the sauce, and laid into a very hot dish before the eggs are 
added, and when these are just set, the sauce should be poured on them. 

BREAD SAUCE. 

Pour quite boiling on half a pint of the finest bread-crumbs, an equal 
measure of new milk ; cover them closely with a plate, and let the sauce 
remain for twenty or thirty minutes ; put it then into a delicately clean 
saucepan, with a small saltspoonful of salt, half as much pounded mace, 
a little ca}' , enne, and about an ounce of fresh butter ; keep it stirred con- 
stantly over a clear fire for a few minutes, then mix with it a couple of 
spoonsful of good cream, give it a boil, and serve it immediately. When 
cream is not to be had, an additional spoonful or two of milk must be 
used ; and as the sauce ought to be perfectly smooth, it is better to 
shake the crumbs through a cullender before the milk is poured to them ; 
they should be of stale bread, and very lightly grated. As some will 
absorb more liquid than others, the cook must increase a little the above 
proportion, should it be needed. Equal parts of milk and of thin cream 
make an excellent bread sauce : more butter can be used to enrich it 
when it is liked. 

Bread-crumbs and new milk, each ^ pint (or any other measure) ■ 
soaked 20 to 30 minutes, or more. Salt, small saltspoonful ; mace, half 
as much ; little cayenne ; butter, 1 oz. : boiled 4 to 5 minutes. 2 to 4 
spoonsful of good cream (or milk): 1 minute. Or: bread-crumbs, ^ 
pint; milk and cream, each £ pint; and from 2 to 4 spoonsful of either 
in addition. 

Obs. — Very pale, strong veal gravy is sometimes poured on the 
bread-crumbs, instead of milk; and these, after being soaked, are 
boiled extremely dry, and then brought to the proper consistency with 
rich cream. The gravy may be highly flavoured with mushrooms 
when this is done. 

BREAD SAUCE WITH ONION. 

Put into a very clean saucepan nearly half a pint of fine bread- 
crumbs, and the white part of a large mild onion, cut into quarters; 
6 



98 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. IV. 

pour to these three quarters of a pint of new milk, and boil them very 
gently, keeping them often stirred, until the onion is perfectly tender, 
which will be in from forty minutes to an hour. Press the whole 
through a hair-sieve, which should be as clean as possible ; reduce the 
sauce by quick boiling, should it be too thin ; add a seasoning of salt 
and grated nutmeg, an ounce of butter, and four spoonsful of cream, 
and when it is of the proper thickness, dish, and send it quickly to 
table. 

Bread-crumbs, nearly -£ pint; white part of 1 large mild onion; new 
milk, | pint: 40 to 60 minutes. Seasoning of salt and grated nutmeg; 
butter, 1 oz. ; cream, 4 tablespoonsful : to be boiled till of a proper con- 
sistency. 

Obs. — This is an excellent sauce for those who like a subdued fla- 
vour of onion in it; but as many persons object to any, the cook should 
ascertain whether it be liked before she follows this receipt. 

COMMON LOBSTER SAUCE. 

Add to half a pint of good melted butter, a tablespoonful of essence 
of anchovies, a small half-saltspoonful of freshly pounded mace, and 
less than a quarter one of cayenne. If a couple of spoonsful of cream 
are at hand, stir them to the sauce when it boils ; then put in the flesh 
of the tail and claws of a small lobster cut into dice (or any other form) 
of equal size. Keep the saucepan by the side of the fire until the fish 
is quite heated through, but do not let the sauce boil again : serve it 
very hot. A small quantity can be made on occasion with the remains 
of a lobster which has been served at table. 

Melted butter, ^pint; essence of anchovies,* 1 tablespoonful; pound 
ed mace, small ^ saltspoonful ; less than £ one of cayenne ; cream (if 
added), 2 tablespoonsful ; flesh of small lobster. 

GOOD LOBSTER SAUCE. 

Select for this a perfectly fresh hen lobster ; split the tail carefully, 
and take out the inside coral ; pound half of it in a mortar very smoothly 
with less than an ounce of butter, rub it through a hair-sieve, and put 
it aside. Cut the firm flesh of the fish into dice of not less than half 
an inch in size; and when these are ready, make as much good melted 
butter as will supply the quantity of sauce required for table, and if to 
be served with a turbot, or other large fish, to a numerous company, let 
it be plentifully provided. Season it well with cayenne, mace, and 
salt; add to it. a few spoonsful of rich cream, and then mix a small poi 
tion of it very gradually with the pounded coral ; when this is suffi- 
ciently liquefied, pour it into the sauce, and stir the whole well to- 
gether; put in immediately the flesh of the fish, and heat the sauce 
thoroughly by the side of the fire, without allowing it to boil, for if it 
should do so its fine colour would be destroyed. The whole of the 
coral may be used for the sauce when no portion of it is required for 
other purposes. 

GOOD OYSTER SAUCE. 

At the moment they are wanted for use, open three dozens of fine 
plump native oysters; save carefully and strain their liquor, rinse them 

* Anchovies, from which this essence is made, are small sea-fish, not known ia 
America The flavouring must therefore he dispensed with. 



CHAP. IV.] SAUCES. 99 

separately in it, put them into a very clean saucepan, strain the liquor 
again, and pour it to them ; heat them slowly, and keep them from one 
to two minutes at the simmering point, without allowing them to boil, 
as that will render them hard. Lift them out and beard them neatly ; 
add to the liquor three ounces of butter, smoothly mixed with a large 
dessertspoonful of flour ; stir these without ceasing until they boil, and 
are perfectly mixed; then add to them gradually a quarter-pint, or 
rather more, of new milk, or of thin cream (or equal parts of both), 
and continue the stirring until the sauce boils again ; add a little salt, 
should it be needed, and a small quantity of cayenne in the finest pow- 
der ; put in the oysters, and keep the saucepan by the side of the fire, 
until the whole is thoroughly hot, and begins to simmer, then turn the 
sauce into a well-heated tureen, and send it immediately to table. 

Small plump oysters, 3 dozens; butter, 3 ozs; flour, 1 large desert- 
spoonful ; the oyster-liquor; milk or cream, full ^ pint* little salt and 
cayenne. 

COMMON OYSTER SAUCE. 

Prepare and plump two dozens of oysters as directed in the receipt 
above; add their strained liquor to a quarter-pint of thick melted butter 
made with milk, or with half milk and half water; stir the whole until 
it boils, put in the oysters, and when they are quite heated through, 
send the sauce to table without delay. Some persons like a little cay- 
enne and essence of anchovies added to it when it is served with fish; 
others prefer the unmixed flavour of the oysters. 

Oysters, 2 dozens; their liquor; melted butter, a pint. (Little cay- 
enne and 1 desertspoonful of essence of anchovies when liked.) 

CREAM SAUCE FOR FISH. 

Knead very smoothly together with a strong bladed knife, a large 
teaspoonful of flour with three ounces of good butter; stir them in a 
very clean saucepan or stevvpan, over a gentle fire until the butter is 
dissolved, then throw in a little salt, and some cayenne, give the whole 
one minute's simmer, and add, very gradually, half a pint of good cream ; 
keep the sauce constantly stirred until it boils, then mix with it a dessert- 
spoonful of essence of anchovies, and half as much vinegar or lemon- 
juice. The addition of shelled shrimps, or lobster cut in dice, will con- 
vert this at once into a most excellent sauce of either. Pounded mace 
may be added to it with the cayenne ; and it may be thinned with a 
few spoonsful of milk should it be too thick. Omit the essence of an- 
chovies, and mix with it some parsley boiled very green, and minced, 
and it becomes a good sauce for boiled poultry. 

Butter, 3 ozs. ; flour, 1 large teaspoonful : 2 to 3 minutes. Cream, 
ipint; essence of anchovies, 1 large dessertspoonful (more if liked) ; 
vinegar or lemon-juice, 1 teaspoonful ; salt, ^ saltspoonful. 

sharp maitre d'hotel sauce ; (English Receipt.) 
For a rich sauce of this kind, mix a dessertspoonful of flour with four 
ounces of good buiter, but with from two to three ounces only for com- 
mon occasions; knead them together until they resemble a smooth 
oaste, then proceed exactly as for the sauce above, but substitute good 
Dale veal gravy, or strong, pure-flavoured veal broth, or shin of beef 
stock (which, if well made, has little colour), lor the cream; and when 
these have boiled for two or three minutes, stir in a tablespoonful of 



100 MODERN COOKERY. [CAl~?. IV, 

common vinegar, and one of Chili vinegar, with as much cayenne as 
will flavour the sauce well, and salt, should it be needed ; throw in 
from two to three dessertspoonsful of finely-minced parsley, give the 
whole a boil, and it will be ready to serve. A tablespoonful of mush- 
room catsup or of Harvey's sauce may be added with the vinegar, when 
the colour of the sauce is immaterial. It may be served with boiled 
calf's head, or with boiled eels with good effect; and, as we have 
directed in another part of this volume, various kinds of cold meat and 
fish may be re-warmed for table in it. With a little more flour, and a 
flavouring of essence of anchovies, it will make, without parsley, an ex- 
cellent sauce for these last, when they are first dressed. 

Butter, 2 to 4 ozs. ; flour, one dessertspoonful; pale veal gravy or 
strong broth, or shin of beef stock, | pint; cayenne; salt, if needed; 
common vinegar, 1 tablespoonful ; Chili vinegar, 1 tablespoonful. (Cat- 
sup or Harvey's sauce, according to circumstances.) 

FRENCH MAITRE D'HOTEL,* OR STEWARD'S SAUCE. 

Add to half a pint of rich, pale veal gravy, well thickened with the 
white roux of page 93, a good seasoning of pepper, salt, minced parsley, 
and lemon-juice ; or make the thickening with a small tablespoonful of 
flour, and a couple of ounces of butter; keep these stirred constantly 
over a very gentle fire from ten to fifteen minutes, then pour to them 
the gravy, boiling, in small portions, mixing the whole well as it is 
added, and letting it boil up between each, for unless this be done, the 
butter will be likely to float upon the surface. Simmer the sauce for a 
few minutes, and skim it well, then add salt should it be needed, a tole- 
rable seasoning of pepper or of cayenne, in fine powder, from two to 
three teaspoonsful of minced parsley, and the strained juice of a small 
lemon. For some dishes, this sauce is thickened with the yolks of eggs, 
about four to the pint. The French work into their sauces generally a 
small bit of fresh butter, just before they are taken from the fire, to give 
them mellowness: this is done usually for the Maitre d'Hotel. 

the lady's sauce ; (for fish.') 

Pound to a very smooth paste the inside coral of a lobster with a small 
slice of butter, and some cayenne ; rub it through a hair-sieve, g'ather it 
together, and mix it very smoothly with from half to three-quarters of 
a pint of sauce tournee, or of cream fish-sauce, previously well seasoned 
with cayenne and salt, and moderately with pounded mace ; bring it to 
the point of boiling only, stir in quickly, but gradually, a tablespoonful 
of strained lemon-juice, and serve it very hot. When neither cream 
nor gravy is at hand, substitute rich melted butter, mixed with a des- 
sertspoonful or two of essence of anchovies, and well seasoned. The 
fine colour of the coral will be destroyed by boiling. This sauce, which 
the French call Sauce a VAurore, may be served with brill, boiled soles, 
grey mullet, and some few other kinds of fish: it is quickly made when 
the lobster butter of Chapter XIV. is in the house. 

Coral of lobster, pounded ; cream-sauce, or sauce tournee (thickened 
pale veal gravy), ^ to f pint; lemon-juice, 1 tablespoonful; salt, cay- 
enne, and mace, as needed. Or : rich melted butter, instead of other 
eauce ; essence of anchovies, 2 dessertspoonsful ; other seasoning, as *ibovt. 

* The Maitre d'Hotel is, properly, the House Steward. 



CHAP. IV.] SAUCES. 101 

Obs.— The proportion of spices here must, of course, depend on the 
flavouring which the gravy or sauce may have already received. 

GENEVEVE SAUCE, OR SAUCE GENEVOISE. 

Cut into dice three ounces of the lean of a well-flavoured ham, and 
put them with half a small carrot, four cloves, a blade of mace, two or 
three very small sprigs of lemon-thyme, and of parsley, and rather more 
than an ounce of butter into a stevvpan, just simmer them from three- 
quarters of an hour to a whole hour, then stir in a teaspoonful of flour ; 
continue the slow stewing for about five minutes, and pour in by de- 
grees a pint of good boiling veal gravy, and let the sauce again simmer 
softly for nearly an hour. Strain it off, heat it in a clean saucepan, and 
when it boils, stir in a wineglassful and a half of good sherry or Ma- 
deira, two tablespoonsful of lemon-juice, some cayenne, a little salt if 
needed, and a small tablespoonful of flour, very smoothly mixed with 
two ounces of butter. Give the whole a boil after the thickening is 
added, pour a portion of the sauce over the fish (it is served principally 
with salmon and trout), and send the remainder very hot to table in a 
tureen. 

Lean of ham, 3 ozs. ; ^ small carrot; 4 to 6 cloves; mace, 1 large 
blade ; thyme and parsley, 3 or 4 small sprigs of each ; butter, 1 to 1^ 
oz. : 50 to 60 minutes. Veal gravy, 1 pint: | to 1 hour. Sherry or 
Madeira, H glassful; lemon-juice, 2 tablespoonsful; seasoning of cay- 
enne and salt ; flour, 1 tablespoonful ; butter, 2 ozs. : 1 minute. 

Obs. — A teaspoonful or more of essence of anchovies is usually added 
to the sauce, though it is scarcely required. 

SAUCE ROBERT. 

Cut into small dice four or five large onions, and brown them in a 
stewpan with three ounces of butter, and "a dessertspoonful of flour. 
When of a deep yellow brown, pour to them half a pint of beef or of 
veal gravy, and let them simmer for fifteen minutes ; skim the sauce, 
add a seasoning of salt and pepper, and, at the moment of serving, mix 
in a dessertspoonful of made-mustard. 

Large onions, 4 or 5; butter, 3 ozs. ; flour, dessertspoonful : 10 to 15 
minutes. Gravy, ^ pint: 15 minutes. Mustard, dessertspoonful. 

SAUCE PIQUANTE. 

Brown lightly, in an ounce and a half of butter, a tablespoonful of 
minced eschalots, or three of onions ; add a teaspoonful of flour when 
they are partially done ; pour to them half a pint of gravy or of good 
broth, and when it boils, add three chilies, a bay-leaf, and a very small 
bunch of thyme. Let these simmer for twenty minutes; take out the 
thyme and bay-leaf, add a high seasoning of black pepper, and half a 
wineglassful of the best vinegar. A quarter-teaspoonful of cayenne 
may be substituted for the chilies. 

Eschalots, 1 tablespoonful, or three of onions ; flour, 1 teaspoonful; 
butter, 1^ oz. : 10 to 15 minutes. Gravy or broth, i pint; chilies 3; 
bay-leaf; thyme, small bunch: 20 minutes. Pepper, plenty; vinegar, 
| wineglassful. 

excellent horseradish sauce ; (to serve hot or cold wilh roast beef.) 
Wash and wipe a stick of young horseradish, grate it as small as 



102 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. IV. 

possible on a fine grater, then with two ounces (or a couple of large 
tablespoonsful) of it, mix a small teaspoonful of salt, and four table- 
spoonsful of good cream ; stir in briskly and by degrees, three dessert- 
spoonsful of vinegar. To heat the sauce, put it into a small and deli- 
cately clean saucepan, hold it over, but do not place it upon the fire, 
and stir it without intermission until it is near the point of simmering, 
but do not allow it to boil, or it will curdle instantly. 

Horseradish pulp, 2 ozs. (or, 2 large tablespoonsful) ; salt, 1 teaspoon- 
ful ; good cream, 4 tablespoonsful ; vinegar, 3 dessertspoonsful. 

Obs. — Common English salad-mixture is often added to the grated 
horseradish when the sauce is to be served cold. 

hot horseradish sauce ; (to serve with boiled or stewed meat, or fish.) 
Mix three ounces of young, tender, grated horseradish with half a 
pint of good brown gravy, and let it stand by the side of the fire until it 
is on the point of boiling ; add salt if required, a teaspoonful of made- 
mustard, and a dessertspoonful of garlic or of eschalot vinegar, if at 
hand ; if not, twice as much common vinegar for it. 

Some cooks stew the horseradish in vinegar for ten minutes, and 
after having drained it from this, mix it with nearly half a pint of thick 
melted butter. 

Horseradish, grated, 3 ozs.; brown gravy, i pint; made-mustard, 1 
teaspoonful ; eschalot or garlic vinegar, 1 dessertspoonful (or common 
vinegar, twice as much). 

CHRISTOPHER NORTH'S OWN SAUCE FOR MANY MEATS. 

Throw into a small basin a heaped saltspoonful of good cayenne pep- 
per, in very fine powder, and half the quantity of salt ; * add a small 
dessertspoonful of well-refined, pounded and sifted sugar ; mix these 
thoroughly ; then pour in a tablespoonful of the strained juice of a fresh 
lemon, two of Harvey's sauce, a teaspoonful of the very best mushroom 
catsup (or of cavice), and three tablespoonsful, or a small wineglassful, 
of port wine. Heat the sauce by placing the basin in a saucepan of 
boiling water, or turn it into a jar, and place this in the water. Serve 
it directly it is ready with geese or ducks, tame or wild ; roast pork, 
venison, fawn, a grilled blade-bone, or any other broil. A slight flavour 
of garlic or eschalot vinegar may be given to it at pleasure. Many 
persons use it with fish. It is good cold ; and, if bottled directly it is 
made, may be stored for several days. It is the better for being mixed 
some hours before it is served. The proportion of cayenne may be 
doubled when a very pungent sauce is desired. 

Good cayenne pepper in fine powder, 1 heaped saltspoonful; salt, 
half as much; pounded sugar, 1 small dessertspoonful; strained lemon- 
juice, 1 tablespoonful; Harvey's sauce, 2 tablespoonsful; best mush- 
room catsup, 1 teaspoonful; port wine, 3 tablespoonsful, or small wine- 
glassful. (Little eschalot, or garlic-vinegar at pleasure.) 

Obs. — This sauce is exceedingly good when mixed with the brown 
gravy of a hash or stew, or with that which is served with game or 
other dishes. 

poor man's sauce ; (served with Turkey Poults.) 

Mix with four tablespoonsful of minced onions, half a teaspoonful of 

* Characteristically , the salt of this sauce ought, perhaps, to prevail more strongly 
over the sugar, but it will be found for most tastes sufficiently j>iuuant as it is. 



CHAP. IV.] SAUCES. 103 

salt, nearly as much pepper, two tablespoonsful of watei, and three of 
good sharp vinegar. Boil the sauce for a few minutes, and serve it 
hot ; or send it to table cold, when it is liked so. Vinegar may en- 
tirely supply the place of the water in this case, and a spoonful or two 
of oil may be mixed with it. A small desertspoonful of minced parsley 
is likewise sometimes mixed with the onions. Their strong flavour 
may be in some measure weakened by steeping them for an hour or 
more in a pint of cold water after they are minced. 

SALLAD DRESSING. 

For a salad of moderate size pound very smoothly the yolks of two 
hard-boiled eggs with a small teaspoonful of unmade mustard, half as 
much sugar in fine powder, and a saltspoonful of salt. Mix gradually 
with these a small cup of cream, or the same quantity of very pure oil, 
and two tablespoonsful of vinegar. More salt and acid can be added at 
pleasure ; but the latter usually predominates too much in English 
salads. A few drops of cayenne vinegar will improve this receipt. 

Hard yolks of eggs, 2; unmade mustard, 1 small teaspoonful; sugar, 
half as much; salt, 1 saltspoonful; cream or oil, small cupful; vinegar, 
2 tablespoonsful. 

Obs. 1. — To some tastes a teaspoonful or more of eschalot vinegar 
would be an acceptable addition to this sauce, which may be otherwise 
varied in numberless ways. Cucumber-vinegar may be substituted for 
other, and small quantities of soy, cavice, essence of anchovies, or cat- 
sup may in turn be used to flavour the compound. The salad-bowl too 
may be rubbed with a cut clove of garlic, to give the whole composition 
a very slight flavour of it. The eggs should be boiled for fifteen 
minutes, and allowed to become quite cold always before they are 
pounded, or the mixture will not be smooth : if it should curdle, which 
it will sometimes do, if not carefully made, add to it the yolk of a very 
fresh unboiled egg. 

Obs. 2. — As we have before had occasion to remark, garlic, when 
very sparingly and judiciously used, imparts a remarkably fine savour 
to a sauce or gravy, and neither a strong nor a coarse one, as it does 
when used in larger quantities. The veriest morsel (or, as the French 
call it, a mere soupqon) of the root is sufficient to give this agreeable 
piquancy, but unless the proportion be extremely small, the effect will 
be quite different. The Italians dress their salads upon a round of deli- 
cately toasted bread, which is rubbed with garlic, saturated with oil, 
and sprinkled with cayenne, before it is laid into the bowl : they also 
eat the bread thus prepared, but with less of oil, and untoasted often be- 
fore their meals, as a digestor. 

FRENCH SALAD DRESSING. 

Stir a saltspoonful of salt and half as much pepper into a large spoon- 
ful of oil, and when the salt is dissolved, mix with them four additional 
spoonsful of oil, and pour the whole over the salad ; let it be well turned, 
and then add a couple of spoonsful of vinegar ; mix the whole thoroughly 
and serve it without delay. The salad should not be dressed in this 
way until the instant before it is wanted for table: the proportions of 
salt and pepper can be increased at pleasure, and common, or cucumber 
vinegar may be substituted for the tarragon, which, however is more 
frequently used in France than any other 



104 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. IV. 

Salt, 1 spoonful ; pepper, ^ as much; oil, 5 salad-spoonsful ; tarragon, 
or other vinegar, 2 spoonsful. 

OUR OWN SA.UCE FOR SALAD OR COLD MEAT. 

Mix with the yolks of two very fresh unboiled eggs a half-saltspoon- 
ful of salt, a third as much of cayenne, and a slight grating of nutmeg; 
then stir very gradually to them three tablespoonsful of oil of the finest 
quality working the sauce like the Mayonnaise; and when it is per- 
fectly smooth, add three spoonsful of good meat-jelly, and two of cucum- 
ber-vinegar. The shin of beef stock for gravies, which will be strongly 
jellied when cold, will answer very well for this sauce when no richer 
is at hand. 

mayonnaise ; (a very fine sauce for cold meat, poultry, fish, or salad.') 
Put into a large basin the yolks only of two fine and very fresh eggs, 
carefully freed from the germs, with a little salt and cayenne; stir 
these well together, then add about a teaspoonful of the purest salad 
oil, and work the mixture round with a wooden spoon until it appears 
like cream. Pour in by slow degrees nearly half a pint of oil, con- 
tinuing at each interval to work the sauce as at first until it resumes 
the smoothness of a custard, and not a particle of the oil remains visi- 
ble; then add a couple of tablespoonsful of plain or of tarragon vine- 
gar, and one of cold water to whiten the sauce. A bit of clear veal 
jelly the size of an egg will improve it greatly; and a morsel of garlic 
not larger than a pea, bruised as fine as possible, will give it a very 
agreeable relish, even to persons to whom garlic generally is distaste- 
ful. In lieu of this, a few drops of eschalot vinegar may be stirred in ; 
and the flavour may be varied with lemon-juice, and cucumber, or Chili 
vinegar at choice. The reader who may have a prejudice against the 
unboiled eggs which enter into the composition of the Mayonnaise, will 
find that the most fastidious taste would not detect their being raw, if 
the sauce be well made; and persons who dislike oil may partake of it 
in this form, without being aware of its presence, provided always that 
it be perfectly fresh, and pure in flavour, for otherwise it is easily per- 
ceptible. 

Yolks of fresh unboiled eggs, 2 ; salt, ^ saltspoonful or rather more ; 
cayenne ; oil, full third of pint ; common, or tarragon vinegar, 2 table- 
spoonsful ; cold water, 1 tablespoonful ; garlic, morsel size of pea (or 
few drop*> of eschalot vinegar). Meat jelly (if at hand), size of an 
egg. 

Obs. — When a much larger proportion of vinegar is liked, a third 
yolk of egg should be used, or the sauce will be too thin. It is some- 
times coloured green with the juice of parsley, and other herbs. A 
spoonful or two of cold bechamel, or of good white sauce, is always an 
'improvement to it. 

FENNEL SAUCE. 

Strip from the stems, wash very clean, and boil quickly in salt and 
water until it is quite tender, a handful of young fennel; press the 
water well from it, mince it very small, and mix it gradually with the 
quantity of melted butter required for table. 

Fennel, small handful: 10 minutes, or until quite tender. Melted 
butter, J- to I pint ; little salt. 



CHAP. IV.] SAUCES. 105 

Obs. — The French use good pale veal gravy thickened with flour 
and butter for this sauce. 

TARSLEY AND BUTTER. 

Proceed exactly as for the fennel, but boil the parsley four or five 
minutes less ; and be careful to press the water from it thoroughly. For 
an improved sauce, substitute bechamel or white melted butter for the 
common melted butter. 

Melted butter, or thickened veal gravy, third of pint; parsley, boiled 
and minced, 1 dessertspoonful. 

GOOSEBERRY SAUCE FOR MACKEREL. 

Cut the stalks and tops from half to a whole pint of quite young 
gooseberries, wash them well, just cover them with cold water and 
boil them very gently indeed until they are tender; drain them well, 
and mix with them a small quantity of melted butter made with rather 
less flour than usual. Some eaters prefer the mashed gooseberries 
without any addition ; others like that of a little ginger. The best way 
of making this sauce is to turn the gooseberries into a hair-sieve to 
drain, then to press them through it with a wooden spoon, and to stir 
them in a clean stewpan or saucepan over the fire with from half to a 
whole teaspoonful of sugar, just to soften their extreme acidity, and a 
bit of fresh butter about the size of a walnut. When the fruit is not 
passed through the sieve it is an improvement to seed it. 

COMMON SORREL SAUCE. 

Strip from the stalks and the large fibres, from one to a couple of 
quarts of freshly-gathered sorrel; wash it very clean, and put it'into a 
well-tinned stewpan or saucepan (or into a German enamelled one, 
which would be far better), without any water ; add to it a small slice 
of good butter, some pepper and salt, and stew it gently, keeping it well 
stirred, until it is exceedingly tender, that it may not burn ; then drain 
it on a sieve, or press the liquid well from it; chop it as fine as possi- 
ble; and boil it again for a few minutes with a spoonful or two of 
gravy, or the same quantity of cream or milk, mixed with a half-tea- 
spoonful of flour, or with only a fresh slice of good butter. The beaten 
yolk of an egg or two stirred in just as the sorrel is taken from the file 
will soften the sauce greatly, and a saltspoonful of pounded sugar will 
also be an improvement. 

ASPARAGUS SAUCE, FOR LA BIB CHOPS. 

Cut the green tender points of some young asparagus into half-inch 
lengths, wash them well, drain and throw them into plenty of boiling 
salt and water. When they are quite tender, which may be in from 
ten to fifteen minutes, turn them into a hot strainer and drain the water 
thoroughly from them ; put them, at the instant of serving, into half a 
pint of thickened veal gravy (see Sauce Tournee), mixed with the 
yolks of a couple of eggs, and well seasoned with salt and cayenne, or 
white pepper; or, into an equal quantity of good melted butter : add to 
this last a squeeze of lemon-juice. The asparagus will become yellow 
if reboiled, or if loft long in the sauce before it is served. 

Asparagus points, h pint: boiled 10 to 15 minutes, longer if not quite 
tender. Thickened veal gravy, 1 pint; yolks of eggs," 2. Or: good 



106 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. IV. 

melted butter, \ pint; lemon-juice, small dessertspoonful, seasoning of 
salt and white pepper. 

GREEN MINT SAUCE, FOR ROAST LAMB. 

The mint for this sauce should be fresh and young, for the leaves 
when old are tough. Strip them from the stems, wash them with great 
nicety, and drain them on a sieve or dry them in a cloth. Chop them 
very fine, put them into a sauce-tureen, and to three heaped table- 
spoonsful of the mint add two of pounded sugar ; mix them well, and 
then add gradually six tablespoonsful of good vinegar. The sauce 
made thus is excellent, but Lisbon sugar can be used for it when pre- 
ferred, and all the proportions can be varied to the taste. It is com- 
monly served too liquid, and not sufficiently sweetened ; and it will be 
found much more wholesome, and generally far more palatable made by 
this receipt. 

Young mint minced, 3 heaped tablespoonsful ; pounded sugar, 2 ta- 
blespoonsful ; vinegar, 6 tablespoonsful. 

CAPER SAUCE. 

Stir into the third of a pint of good melted butter from three to four 
dessertspoonsful of capers ; add a little of the vinegar, and dish the 
sauce as soon as it boils. Keep it stirred after the berries are added : 
part of them may be minced, and a little Chili vinegar substituted for 
their own. Pickled nasturtiums make a very good sauce, and their fla- 
vour is sometimes preferred to that of the capers. For a large joint, 
increase the quantity of butter to half a pint. 

Melted butter, third of pint ; capers, 3 to 4 dessertspoonsful. 

BROWN CAPER SAUCE. 

Thicken half a pint of good veal or beef gravy as directed for Sauce 
Tournee, and add to it two tablespoonsful of capers, and a dessertspoon- 
ful of the pickle liquor, or of Chili vinegar, with some cayenne if the 
former be used, and a proper seasoning of salt. 

Thickened veal, or beef gravy, £ pint; capers, 2 tablespoonsful; 
caper-liquor or Chili vinegar, 1 dessertspoonful. 

CAPER SAUCE FOR FISH. 

To nearly half a pint of very rich melted butter add six spoonsful of 
strong veal gravy or jelly, a tablespoonful of essence of anchovies, and 
some Chili vinegar or cayenne. When there is no gravy at hand sub- 
stitute a half wineglassful of mushroom catsup, or of Harvey's sauce ; 
though these deepen the colour more than is desirable. 

COMMON CUCUMBER SAUCE. 

Pare, slice, dust slightly with pepper, and with flour, two or three 
young cucumbers, and fry them a fine brown, in a little butter, or dis- 
solve an ounce and a half in a small stewpan, or iron saucepan, and 
shake them in it over a brisk fire from twelve to fifteen minutes; pour 
to them, by degrees, nearly half a pint of strong beef broth, or of brown 
gravy ; add salt, and more pepper if required ; stew the whole for five 
minutes, and send the sauce very hot to table. A minced onion may 
be browned with the cucumbers when it is liked, and a spoonful of vine- 
gar added to them before they are served. 



CHAP. IV.] SAUCES. 107 

Cucumbers, 2 or 3 ; butter, 1 h oz. ; broth or gravy, nearly ^ pint , salt, 
pepper. 

ANOTHER COMMON SAUCE OF CUCUMBERS. 

Cucumbers which have the fewest seeds are best for this sauce. Pare 
and slice a couple, or three, should they be small, and put them into a 
saucepan, in which two ounces, or rather more, of butter have been dis- 
solved, and are beginning to boil; place them high over the fire, that 
they may stew as softly as possible without taking colour, for three- 
quarters of an hour, or longer should they require it; add to them a good 
seasoning of white pepper, and some salt, when they are half done, and 
just before they are served stir to them half a teaspoonful of flour, mixed 
with a morsel of butter ; stew in some minced parsley, give it a boil, 
and finish with a spoonful of good vinegar. 

WHITE CUCUMBER SAUCE. 

Quarter some young quickly grown cucumbers, without many seeds 
in them ; empty them of these, and take off the rinds. Cut them into 
inch lengths, and boil them from fifteen to eighteen minutes in salt and 
water ; squeeze, and work them through a sieve ; mix them with a few 
spoonsful of bechamel, or thick white sauce ; do not let them boil again, 
but serve them very hot. A sauce of better flavour is made by boiling 
the cucumbers in veal gravy well seasoned, and stirring in the beaten 
yolks of two or three eggs, and a little vinegar or lemon-juice, at the 
instant of serving. Another also of cucumbers sliced, and stewed in 
butter, but without being at all browned, and then boiled in pale veal 
gravy, which must be thickened with rich cream, is excellent. A mor- 
sel of sugar improves this sauce. 

Cucumbers, 3 : 15 to 18 minutes. White sauce, £ pint. 

WHITE MUSHROOM SAUCE. 

Cut off the stems closely from half a pint of small button mushrooms; 
clean them with a little salt and a bit of flannel, and throw them into 
cold water, slightly salted, as they are done ; drain them well, or dry 
them in a soft cloth, and throw them into half a pint of boiling bechamel 
(see page 93), or of white sauce made with very fresh milk, or thin 
cream, thickened with a tablespoonful of flour, and two ounces of butter. 
Simmer the mushrooms from ten to twenty minutes, or until they are 
quite tender, and dish the sauce, which should be properly seasoned 
with salt, mace, and cayenne. 

Mushrooms, | pint ; white sauce, \ pint ; seasoning of salt, mace, and 
cayenne : 10 minutes. 

ANOTHER MUSHROOM SAUCE. 

Prepare from half to a whole pint of very small mushroom-buttons 
with great nicety, and throw them into as much sauce tournee ; when 
they are tender add a few spoonsful of rich cream, give the whole a 
boil, and serve it. Either of these sauces may be sent to table with 
boiled poultry, breast of veal, or veal-cutlets : the sauce tournee should 
be thickened rather more than usual when it is to be used in this re- 
ceipt. 

Mushrooms and sauce tournee each, ^ to whole pint : stewed till ten- 
der. Cream, 4 to 8 tablespoonsful. 



108 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. IV. 

BROWN MUSHROOM SAUCE. 

Very small flaps, peeled and freed entirely from the fur, will answer 
for this sauce. Leave them whole, or quarter them, and stew them 
tender in some rich brown gravy ; give a full seasoning- of mace and 
cayenne, add thickening, and salt if needed, and a tablespoonful of 
good mushroom catsup. 

COMMON TOM ATA SAUCE. 

Tomatas are so juicy when ripe, that they require but little liquid to 
reduce them to a proper consistency for sauce ; and they vary so ex- 
ceedingly in size and quality that it is difficult to give precise direc- 
tions for the exact quantity which is needed for them. Take off the 
stalks, halve the tomatas, and gently squeeze out the seeds and wa- 
tery pulp ; then stew them softly with a few spoonsful of gravy or of 
strong broth until they are quite melted. Press the whole through a 
hair-sieve, and heat it afresh with a little additional gravy should it be 
too thick, and some cayenne, and salt. Serve it very hot. 

Fine ripe tomatas, 6 or 8 ; gravy or strong broth, 4 tablespoonsful : ^ 
to £ hour, or longer if needed. Salt and cayenne sufficient to season 
the sauce, and two or three spoonsful more of gravy if required. 

Obs. — For a large tureen of this sauce, increase the proportions; and 
should it be at first too liquid, reduce it by quick boiling. When nei-' 
ther gravy nor broth is at hand, the tomatas may be stewed perfectly 
tender, but very gently, in a couple of ounces of butter, with some cay- 
enne and salt only, or with the addition of a very little finely minced 
onion; then rubbed through a sieve, and heated, and served without 
any addition, or with only that of a teaspoonful of vinegar ; or, when 
the colour is not a principal consideration, with a few spoonsful of rich 
cream, smoothly mixed with a little flour to prevent its curdling. The 
sauce must be stirred without ceasing should the last be added, and 
boiled for four or five minutes. 

A FINER TOMATA SAUCE. 

Stew very gently a dozen fine red tomatas, prepared as for the pre- 
ceding receipt, with two or three sliced eschalots, four or five chilies, 
or a capsicum or two, or in lieu of either, with a quarter-teaspoonful of 
cayenne pepper, a few small dice of lean ham, and half a cupful of rich 
gravy. Stir these often, and when the tomatas are reduced quite to a 
smooth pulp, press them through a sieve ; put them into a clean sauce- 
pan, with a few spoonsful more of rich gravy, or Espagnole, add salt, 
if needed, boil the sauce, stirring it well, for ten minutes, and serve it 
very hot. When the gravy is exceedingly good, and highly flavoured, 
the ham may be omitted : a dozen small mushrooms, nicely cleaned, 
may also be sliced, and stewed with the tomatas, instead of the escha- 
lots, when their flavour is preferred, or they may be added with them. 
The exact proportion of liquid used is immaterial, for should the sauce 
be too thin, it may be reduced by rapid boiling, and diluted with more 
gravy if too thick. 

BOILED APPLE SAUCE. 

Apples of a fine cooking sort require but a very small portion of 
liquid to boil down well and smoothly for sauce, if placed over a gentle 
fire in a close-shutting saucepan, and simmered as soilly as possible, 



CHAP. IV.] SAUCES. 109 

until they are well broken ; and their flavour is injured by the common 
mode of adding so much to them, that the greater part must be drained 
off again before they are sent to table. Pare the fruit quickly, quarter 
it, and be careful entirely to remove the cores ; put one tablespoonful 
of water into a saucepan before the apples are thrown in ; and proceed, 
as we have directed, to simmer them until they are nearly ready to 
serve : finish the sauce by the receipt which follows. 

Apples, ^ lb.; water, 1 tablespoonful; stewed very softly: 30 to 60 
minutes. 

Obs. — These proportions are sufficient only for a small tureen of the 
sauce, and should be doubled for a large one. 

BAKED APPLE SAUCE ; (good.) 

Put a tablespoonful of water into a quart basin, and fill it with good 
boiling apples, pared, quartered, and carefully cored : put a plate over, 
and set them into a moderate oven for about an hour, or until they are 
reduced quite to a pulp; beat them smooth with a clean wooden spoon, 
adding to them a little sugar, and a morsel of fresh butter, when these 
are liked, though they will scarcely be required. 

The sauce made thus is far superior to that which is boiled. When 
no other oven is at hand, a Dutch or an American one would answer 
for it. 

Good boiling apples, 1 quart: baked, 1 hour (more or less according 
to the quality of the fruit, and temperature of the oven) ; sugar, 1 oz. ; 
butter, £ oz. 

BROWN APPLE SAUCE. 

Stew gently down to a thick and perfectly smooth marmalade, a 
pound of pearmains, or of any other well-flavoured boiling apples, in 
about the third of a pint of rich brown gravy : season the sauce rather 
highly with black pepper or cayenne, and serve it very hot. Currie 
sauce will make an excellent substitute for the gravy when a very 
piquante accompaniment is wanted for pork or other rich meats. 

Apples pared and cored, 1 lb. : good brown gravy, third of pint : ^ to 
l£ hour. Pepper or cayenne as needed. 

WHITE ONION SAUCE. 

. Strip the skin from some large white onions, and after having taken 
off the tops and roots, cut them in two, throw them into cold water as 
they are done, cover them plentifully with more, and boil them very 
tender ; lift them out, drain, and then press the water thoroughly from 
them ; chop them small, rub them through a sieve or strainer, put them 
into a little rich melted butter, mixed with a spoonful or two of cream 
or milk, add a seasoning of salt, give the sauce a boil, and serve it very 
hot. Portugal onions, when they can be obtained, are superior to any 
others, both for this and for most other purposes of cookery. 
For the finest kind of onion sauce, see Soubise, below. 

BROWN ONION SAUCE. 

Cut off both ends of the onions, and slice them into a saucepan in 
which two ounces of butter have been dissolved ; keep them stewing 
over a clear fire until they are lightly coloured ; then pour to them half 
a pint of brown gravy and when they have boiled until they are per- 



1 10 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. IV. 

fectly tender, work the sauce altogether through a strainer, season it 
with a little cayenne, and serve it very hot. 

ANOTHER BROWN ONION SAUCE. 

Mince the onions, stew them in butter until well coloured, stir in a 
dessertspoonful of flour, shake the stewpan over the fire for three or four 
minutes, pour in only as much broth or gravy as will leave the sauce 
tolerably thick, season, and serve it. 

soubise; {French Receipt.) 

Peel some fine white onions, and trim away all tough and discoloured 
parts ; mince them small, and throw them into plenty of boiling water; 
when they have boiled quickly for five minutes, drain them well in a 
sieve, then stew them very softly indeed in an ounce or two of fresh 
butter, until they are dry and perfectly tender ; stir to them as much 
bechamel as will bring them to the consistency of very thick peas soup ; 
pass the whole through a strainer, pressing the onion strongly that none 
may remain behind, and heat the sauce afresh, without allowing it tc 
boil. A small half-teaspoonful of pounded sugar is sometimes added tc 
this soubise. 

White part of onions, 2 lbs. : blanched 5 minutes. Butter, 2 ozs. : 
30 to 50 minutes. Bechamel, £ to 1 pint, or more. 

Obs. — These sauces are served more particularly with lamb or mut- 
ton cutlets, than with any other meats ; but they would probably find 
many approvers if sent to table with roast mutton, or boiled veal. Half 
the quantity given above will be sufficient for a moderate-sized dish. 

A FINE SAUCE, OR PUREE OF VEGETABLE MARROW. 

Pare one or two half grown marrows and cut all the seeds; take a 
pound of the vegetable, and slice it with one ounce of mild onion, into a 
pint of strong veal broth or of pale gravy ; stew them very softly for 
nearly or quite an hour; add salt and cayenne, or white pepper, when 
they are nearly done ; press the whole through a fine and delicately 
clean hair-sieve ; heat it afresh, and stir to it when it boils about the 
third of a pint of rich cream. Serve it with boiled chickens, stewed or 
boiled veal, lamb cutlets, or any other delicate meat. When to be 
served as a puree, an additional half pound of the vegetable must be used; 
and it should be dished with small fried sippets round it. For a maigre 
dish, stew the marrow and onion quite tender in butter, and dilute them 
with half boiling water and half cream. 

Vegetable marrow, 1 lb; mild onion, 1 oz. ; strong broth or pale 
gravy, 1 pint: nearly or quite 1 hour. Pepper or cayenne, and salt as 
needed ; good cream from £ to h of pint. For puree, £ lb. more o 
marrow. 

EXCELLENT TURNIP, OR ARTICHOKE SAUCE FOR BOILED MEAT. 

Pare, slice, and boil quite tender, some finely-grained mild turnips, 
press the water from them thoroughly, and pass them through a sieve. 
Dissolve a slice of butter in a clean saucepan, and stir to it a large tea- 
spoonful of flour, or mix them smoothly together before they are put in, 
and shake the saucepan round until they boil ; pour to them very gra- 
dually, nearly a pint of thin cream (or of good milk mixed with a por- 
tion of cream,) add the turnips with a half-teaspoonful or more of salt, 



CHAP. IV.] SAUCES. Ill 

and when the whole is well mixed and very hot, pour it over boiled 
mutton, veal, lamb, or poultry. There should be sufficient of the sauce 
to cover the meat entirely, and when properly made it improves greatly 
the appearance of a joint. A little cayenne tied in a muslin may be 
boiled in the milk before it is mixed with the turnips. Jerusalem arti- 
chokes make a more delicate sauce of this kind even than turnips ; the 
weight of both vegetables must be taken after they are pared. 

Pared turnips or artichokes, 1 lb ; fresh butter, 1^ oz. ; flour, 1 large 
teaspoonful (twice as much if all milk be used) ; salt, ^ teaspoonful or 
more ; cream, or cream and milk mixed, from | to 1 pint. 

CELERY SAUCE. 

Slice the white part of from three to five heads of young tender 
celery ; peel it if not very young, and boil it in salt and water for twenty 
minutes. If for white sauce, put the celery, after it has been well 
drained, into half a pint of veal broth or gravy, and let it stew until it is 
quite soft; then add an ounce and a half of butter, mixed with a des- 
sertspoonful of flour, and a quarter-pint of thick cream, or the yolks of 
three eggs. The French, after boiling the celery, which they cut very 
small, for about twenty minutes, drain, and chop it; then put it with a 
slice of butter into a stewpan, and season it with pepper, salt, and nut- 
meg ; they keep these stirred over the fire for two or three minutes, 
and then dredge in a dessertspoonful of flour ; when this has lost its raw 
taste, they pour in a sufficiency of white gravy to moisten the celery, 
and to allow for twenty minutes' longer boiling. A very good common 
celery sauce is made by simply stewing the celery, cut into inch-lengths, 
in butter, until it begins to be tender ; and then adding a spoonful of 
flour, which must be allowed to brown a little, and half a pint of good 
broth or beef gravy, with a seasoning of pepper or cayenne. 

Celery, 3 to 5 heads: 20 minutes. Veal broth, or gravy, J pint: 20 
to 40 minutes. Butter, I3 oz. ; flour, 1 dessertspoonful ; cream, ^ pint, 
or three yolks of eggs. 

SWEET PUDDING SAUCE. 

Boil together for fifteen minutes the thin rind of half a small lemon, 
an ounce and a half of fine sugar, and a wineglassful of water ; then 
take out the lemon-peel, and mix very smoothly an ounce of butter 
with rather more than a half-teaspoonful of flour, stir them round in the 
sauce until it has boiled one minute; next add a wineglassful and a 
half of sherry or Madeira, or two thirds of that quantity and a quarter- 
glass of brandy : when quite hot, serve the sauce. 

Port-wine sauce is made in the same way, with the addition of a des- 
sertspoonful of lemon-juice, some grated nutmeg, and a little more 
sugar: orange rind and juice may be used to give it flavour when pre- 
ferred to lemon. 

Rind § lemon; sugar, lj oz. ; water, 1 wineglassful: 15 minutes. 
Butter, 1 oz. ; flour, large ^ teaspoonful: 1 minute. Wine, 1| wine- 
glassful ; or, 1 of wine, and £ glass of brandy. 

PUNCH SAUCE FOR SWEET PUDDINGS. 

This is a favourite sauce with custard, plain bread, and plum-pud 
dings. With two ounces of sugar and a quarter-pint of water, boil 
very gently the rind of half a small lemon, and somewhat less of orange- 



112 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. IV. 

peel, from fifteen to twenty minutes ; strain oat the rinds, thicken the 
sauce with an ounce and a half of butter and nearly a teaspoonful of 
flour, add a half-glass of brandy, the same of white wine, two thirds of 
a glass of rum, with the juice of half an orange, and rather less of 
lemon-juice : serve the sauce very hot, but do not allow it to boil after 
the spirit is stirred in. 

Sugar, 2 ozs. ; water, £ pint; lemon and orange rind: 14 to 20 rni- 
nntes. Butter, 1| oz. ; flour, 1 teaspoonful; brandy and white wine 
each ^ wineglassful ; rum, two thirds of glassful ; orange and lemon 
juice. 

COMMON PUDDING SAUCE. 

Sweeten a quarter-pint of good melted butter with an ounce and a 
half of sugar, and add to it gradually a couple of glasses of wine; stir 
it until it is at the point of boiling, and serve it immediately. Lemon- 
grate, or nutmeg, can be added at pleasure. 

A DELICIOUS GERMAN PUDDING SAUCE. 

Dissolve in half a pint of sherry or of Madeira, from three to four 
ounces of fine sugar, but do not allow the wine to boil ; stir it hot to 
the well-beaten yolks of six fresh eggs, and mill the sauce over a gentle 
fire until it is well thickened and highly frothed ; pour it over a plum, 
or any other kind of sweet boiled pudding, of which it much improves 
the appearance. Half the quantity will be sufficient for one of mode- 
rate size. A small machine, resembling a chocolate mill, is used in 
Germany for frothing this sauce ; but a couple of silver forks, fastened 
together at the handles, will serve for the purpose, on an emergency. 
We recommend the addition of a dessertspoonful of strained lemon- 
juice to the wine. 

For large pudding, sherry or Madeira, h pint ; fine sugar, 3 to 4 ozs. ; 
yolks of eggs, 6; lemon-juice (if added), 1 dessertspoonful. 

Obs. — The safer plan with sauces liable to curdle is to thicken them 
always in a jar or jug, placed in a saucepan of water ; when this is not 
done, they should be held over the fire, but never placed upon it. 

PARSLEY-GREEN, FOR COLOURING SAUCES. 

Gather a quantity of young parsley, strip it from the stalks, wash it 
very clean, shake it as dry as possible in a cloth, pound it in a mortar, 
press all the juice closely from it through a hair-sieve reversed, and put 
it into a clean jar ; set it into a pan of boiling water, and in about three 
minutes, if gently simmered, the juice will be poached sufficiently ; lay 
it then upon a clean sieve to drain, and it will be ready for use. 

TO CRISP PARSLEY. 

Pick some branches of young parsley, wash them well, drain them 
from the water, and swing them in a clean cloth until they are quite 
dry ; place them on a sheet of writing paper in a Dutch oven, before a 
brisk fire, and keep them frequently turned until they are quite crisp. 
They will be done in from six to eight minutes. 

FRIED PARSLEY. 

When the parsley has been prepared as for crisping, and is quite 
dry, throw it into plenty of lard or butter, which is on the point of boil 



CHAP. IV.] SAUCES. 1 13 

ing ; take it up with a skimmer the instant it is crisp, and drain u on a 
cloth spread upon a sieve reversed, and placed before the fire. 

TARTAR MUSTARD. 

Rub four ounces of the best mustard very smooth with a full tea- 
spoonful of salt, and wet it by degrees with strong- horseradish vinegar, 
a dessertspoonful of cayenne or of Chili vinegar, and one or two of tai- 
ragon vinegar, when its flavour is not disliked. A quarter-pint of vine- 
gar poured boiling upon an ounce of scraped horseradish, and left for 
one night, closely covered, will be ready to use for this mustard, but it 
will be better for standing two or three days. 

Mustard, 4 ozs. ; salt, large teaspoonfnl ; cayenne, or Chili vinegar, 
1 dessertspoonful; horseradish vinegar, third of pint. 

Obs. — This is an exceedingly pungent compound, but has many 
admirers. 

ANOTHER TARTAR MUSTARD. 

Mix the salt and mustard smoothly, with equal parts of horseradish 
vinegar and of common vinegar. Mustard made by these receipts will 
keep long, if put into jars or bottles, and closely stopped. Cucumber, 
eschalot, or any other of the flavoured vinegars for which we have 
given receipts, may in turn be used for it, and mushroom, gherkin, or 
India pickle-liquor, likewise. 

MILD MUSTARD. 

Mustard for instant use should be mixed with milk, to which a spoon- 
ful or two of very thin cream may be added. 

MUSTARD THE COMMON WAY. 

The great art of mixing mustard, is to have it perfectly smooth, and 
of a proper consistency. The liquid with which it is moistened should 
be added to it in small quantities, and the mustard should be well rubbed, 
and beaten with a spoon. Mix a half-teaspoonful of salt with two 
ounces of the flour of mustard, and stir to them by degrees, sufficient 
boiling^ water to reduce it to the appearance of a thick batter ; do not 
put it into the mustard-glass until cold. Some persons like a half-tea- 
spoonful of sugar, in the finest powder, mixed with it. It ought to be 
sufficiently diluted always to drop easily from the spoon. 

French batter ; (for frying vegetables, and for apj)le, peach, or orange 
fritters.) 

Cut a couple of ounces of good butter into small bits, pour on it less 
than a quarter-pint of boiling water, and when it is dissolved, add three 
quarters of a pint of cold water, so that the whole shall not be quite 
milk warm ; mix it then by degrees, and very smoothly, with twelve 
ounces of fine dry flour, and a small pinch of salt, if the batter be for 
fruit fritters, but with more if for meat or vegetables. Just before it is 
used, stir into it the whites of two eggs beaten to a solid froth ; but pre- 
viously to this, add a little water should it appear too thick, as somes 
flour requires more liquid than other, to bring it to the proper con- 
sistency. 

Butter, 2 ozs. ; water, from £ to nearly 1 pint ; little salt ; flour, | lb. : 



114 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. IV. 

TO PREPARE BREAD FOR FRYING FISH. 

Cut thick slices from the middle of a loaf of light bread, pare the 
crust entirely from them, and dry them gradually in a cool oven until 
they are crisp quite through ; let them become cold, then roll or beat 
them into fine crumbs, and keep them in a dry place for use. To strew- 
over hams or cheeks of bacon, the bread should be left all night in the 
oven, which should be sufficiently heated to brown, as well as to harden 
it: it ought indeed to be entirely converted into equally-coloured crust. 
it may be sifted through a dredging-box on to the hams, after it has 
been reduced almost to powder. 

BROWNED FLOUR FOR THICKENING SOUPS AND GRAVIES. 

Spread it on a tin or dish, and colour it without burning, in a gentle 
oven, or before the fire in a Dutch or American oven : turn it often, or 
the edges will be too much browned before the middle is enough so. 
This, blended with butter, makes a convenient thickening for soups or 
gravies, of which it is desirable to deepen the colour ; and it requires 
less time and attention than the French roux of page 92. 

FRIED BREAD-CRUMBS. 

Grate lightly into very fine crumbs four ounces of stale bread, and 
shake them through a cullender, without rubbing or touching them with 
the hands. Dissolve two ounces of fresh butter in a frying-pan, throw 
in the crumbs, and stir them constantly over a moderate fire, until they 
are all of a clear gold colour; lift them out with a skimmer, spread 
them on a solt cloth laid upon a sieve reversed, and dry them before the 
fire. They may be more delicately prepared by browning them in a 
gentle oven without the addition of butter. 

Bread, 4 ozs. ; butter, 2 ozs. 

FRIED BREAD, OR SIPPETS OF BREAD FOR GARNISHING. 

Cut the crumb of a stale loaf in slices a quarter-inch thick: form 
them into diamonds, or half diamonds, or shape them with a paste-cut- 
ter in any other way ; fry them in Iresh butter, some of a very pale 
brown, and others a deeper colour: dry them well, and place them al- 
ternately round the dish that is to be garnished. They may be made to 
adhere to the edge of the dish, when they are required for ornament 
only, by means of a little flour and white of egg brushed over the side 
which is placed on it: this must be allowed to dry before they are 
served. 

THE RAJAH'S SAUCE. 

Strain, very clear, the juice of six fine lemons; add to it a small tea- 
spoonful of salt, a drachm of good cayenne-pepper, and a slight strip or 
two of the lemon-rind cut extremely thin. Give the sauce three or 
four minutes simmering: turn it into a China jug or basin; and when 
it is quite cold, strain it again, put it into small dry bottles, cork 
them well, and store them in a cool place which is free from damp. 
The sauce is good without being boiled, but is apt to ferment after a 
time: it is, we think, of much finer flavour than Chili vinegar. 

Lemon-juice £ pint; salt 1 small teaspoonful ; cayenne 1 drachm; 
bimmered 5 minutes. 



CHAP. V.] STORE SAUCES. 115 



CHAPTER V. 

STORE SAUCES. 

OBSERVATIONS. 

A WELL-selected stock of these will always prove a convenient re- 
source for giving colour and flavour to soups, gravies, and made dishes; 
but unless the consumption be considerable, they should not be over- 
abundantly provided, as few of them are improved by age, and many are 
altogether spoiled by long keeping, especially if they be not perfectly 
secured from the air by sound corking, or if stored where there is the 
slightest degree of damp. To prevent loss, they should be examined at 
short intervals, and at the first appearance of mould or fermentation, 
such as will bear the process should be reboiled, and put, when again 
quite cold, into clean bottles; a precaution often especially needful for 
mushroom catsup when it has been made in a wet season. This, with 
walnut catsup, Harvey's sauce, cavice, lemon-pickle, Chili, cucumber, 
and eschalot vinegar, will be all that is commonly needed for family 
use, but there is at the present day an extensive choice of these stores 
on sale, in London, and should there be a demand for them in America, 
they could easily be procured. 

MUSHROOM CATSUP. 

Cut the ends of the stalks from two gallons of freshly-gathered mush- 
rooms (the large flaps are best for this purpose, but they should not be 
worm-eaten); break them into a deep earthen pan, and strew amongst 
them three-quarters of a pound of salt, reserving the larger portion of it 
for the top. Let them stand for three, or even four days, and stir them 
gently once every four and twenty hours; then drain off the liquor with- 
out pressing the mushrooms; strain and measure it; put it into a very 
•clean stewpan, and boil it quickly until reduced nearly or quite half. 
For every quart, allow half an ounce of whole black pepper, and a 
drachm of mace; or, instead of the pepper, a quarter- teaspoonful (ten 
grains) of good cayenne; pour the catsup into a clean jug or jar, lay a 
folded cloth over it, and keep it in a cool place until the following day ; 
pour it gently from the sediment, put it into small bottles, cork them 
well, and rosin them down. A teaspoonful of salad-oil may be poured 
into each bottle before it is corked, the better to exclude the air from 
the catsup: it must be kept in a dry cool place. 

Mushrooms, 2 gallons; salt, | lb.; to macerate three or four days. 
To each quart of liquor, ^ oz. black pepper, or quarter-teaspoonful cay- 
enne; and 1 drachm mace: to be reduced half! 

Obs. 1. — Catsup made thus will not be too salt, nor will the flavour 
of the mushrooms be overpowered by that of the spices; of which a 
larger quantity, and a greater variety, can be used at will. 

Obs. 2. — After the mushrooms have stood for three or four days, as 
we have directed, the whole may be turned into a large stewpan, brought 
slowly to a boil, anti simmered for a few minutes before the liquor is 
strained off! We think the catsup keeps rather better when this is 
done, but we recommend only just sufficient simmering to preserve it 



116 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. V. 

well. When the mushrooms are crushed, or mashed, as some authors 
direct, the liquor will necessarily be very thick ; it is better to proceed 
as above, and then to boil the squeezing s of the mushrooms with the 
sediment of the catsup, and sufficient cloves, pepper, allspice, and ginger, 
to flavour it highly : this second catsup will be found very useful to mix 
with common thickened sauces, hashes, and stews. In some seasons it 
is necessary to boil the catsup with the spice a second time after it has 
been kept for three or four months : this, by way of precaution, can 
always be done, but it had better then be put into large bottles in the 
first instance, and stored in the small ones afterwards. 

DOUBLE MUSHROOM CATSUP. 

On a gallon of fresh mushrooms strew three ounces of salt, and pour 
to them a quart of ready-made catsup (that which is a year old will do 
if it be perfectly good) ; keep these stirred occasionally for four days, 
then drain the liquor very dry from the mushrooms, and boil it for fifteen 
minutes, with an ounce of whole black pepper, a drachm and a half of 
mace, an ounce of ginger, and three or four grains only of cayenne. 

Mushrooms, 1 gallon ; salt, 3 ozs. ; mushroom catsup, 1 quart. ; pepper- 
corns, 1 oz. ; mace, 1^ drachm ; ginger, 1 oz. ; cayenne, 3 to 4 grains: 
15 minutes. 

COMPOUND, OR COOK'S CATSUP. 

Take a pint and a half of mushroom catsup when it is first made, and 
ready boiled (the double is best for the purpose), simmer in it for five 
minutes, an ounce of small eschalots or onions, nicely peeled ; add to 
these half a pint of walnut catsup, and a wineglassful of cayenne vine- 
gar,* or of Chili vinegar ; give the whole one boil, pour it out, and when 
cold, bottle it with the eschalots. 

Mushroom catsup, 1| pint; eschalots or onions, 1 oz. ; walnut catsup 
or pickle, ^ pint ; cayenne or Chili vinegar, 1 wineglassful. 

WALNUT CATSUP. 

The vinegar in which walnuts have been pickled, when they have 
remained in it a year, will generally answer all the purposes for which 
this catsup is required, particularly if it be drained from them and boiled 
for a few minutes, with a little additional spice, and a few eschalots; 
but where the vinegar is objected to, it may be made by boiling either 
the expressed juice of young walnuts for an hour, with six ounces of 
fine anchovies, four ounces of eschalots, half an ounce of black pepper, 
a quarter ounce of cloves, and a drachm of mace, to every quart; or as 
follows : — 

Pound in a mortar a hundred young walnuts, strewing amongst them 
as they are done half a pound of salt ; then pour to them a quart of 
strong vinegar, and let them stand until they have become quite black, 
keeping them stirred three or four times a day ; next add a quart of 
strong old beer, and boil the whole together for ten minutes ; strain it, 
and let it remain until the next day ; then pour it off clear from the 
sediment, add to it one large head of garlic bruised, half an ounce of 
nutmegs bruised, the same quantity of cloves and black pepper, and two 
drachms of mace : boil these together for half an hour, and the following 

* We have always had the cayenne-vinegar used in this receipt, but the Chili would, 
without doubt, answer as well, or better. 



CHAP. V.] STORE SAUCES. 117 

day bottle and cork the catsup well. It will keep for a dozen y3ars. 
Many persons add to it, before it is boiled, a bottle of port wine ; and 
others recommend a large bunch of sweet herbs to be put in with the 
spice. 

1st Recipe. Expressed juice of walnuts, 1 quart; eschalots, 4 ozs.; 
black pepper, ^ oz. ; cloves, £ oz. ; mace, 1 drachm : 1 hour. 

2d. Walnuts, 100; salt, ^ lb.; vinegar, 1 quart: to stand till black. 
Strong beer, 1 quart ; anchovies, ^ lb. ; 1 head garlic ; nutmegs, ^ oz. ; 
'cloves, ^ oz. ; black pepper, £ oz. ; mace, 2 drachms : h hour. 

ANOTHER GOOD RECEIPT FOR WALNUT CATSUP. 

Beat a hundred green walnuts in a large marble mortar until they 
are thoroughly bruised and broken, and then put them into a stone jar, 
with half a pound of eschalots, cut in slices, one head of garlic, half a 
pound of salt, and two quarts of vinegar; let them stand for ten days, 
and stir them night and morning. Strain off the liquor, and boil it for 
half an hour with the addition of two ounces of anchovies, two of whole 
pepper, half an ounce of cloves, and two drachms of mace ; skim it well, 
strain it off, and when it is quite cold pour it gently from the sediment 
(which may be reserved for flavouring c<jmmon sauces) into small dry 
bottles ; secure it from the air by sound corking, and store it in a dry 
place. 

Walnuts, 100; eschalots, ^ lb.; garlic, 1 head; salt, | lb.; vinegar, 
2 quarts : 10 days. Anchovies, 2 ozs. ; black pepper, 2 ozs. ; mace, 
$ oz. ; cloves, h oz. : ^ hour. 

LEMON PICKLE OR CATSUP. 

Either divide six small lemons into quarters, remove all the pips that 
are in sight, and strew three ounces of salt upon them, and keep them 
turned in it for a week, or, merely make deep incisions in them, and 
proceed as directed for pickled lemons. When they have stood in a 
warm place for eight days, put into a stone jar two ounces and a half 
of finely scraped horseradish, and two ounces of eschalots, or one and a 
half of garlic ; to these add the lemons with all their liquor, and pour on 
them a pint and a half of boiling vinegar in which half an ounce of 
bruised ginger, a quarter ounce of whole white pepper, and two blades 
of mace have been simmered (or two or three minutes. The pickle 
will be fit for use in two or three months, but may stand four or five 
before it is strained off. 

Small lemons, 6 ; salt, 3 ozs. : 8 days. Horseradish, 2^ ozs. ; escha- 
ots, 2 ozs., or garlic lh oz. ; vinegar, 11 pint; ginger, £ oz. ; whole 
white pepper, £ oz. ; mace, 2 blades : 3 to 6 months. 

PONTAC CATSUP FOR FISH. 

On one pint of ripe elderberries stripped from the stalks, pour three- 
quarters of a pint of boiling vinegar, and let it stand in a cool oven al 1 
night; the next day strain off the liquid without pressure, and boil it for 
five minutes with a half-teaspoonful salt, a small race of ginger, a blade 
of mace, forty corns of pepper, twelve cloves, and four eschalots. Bottle 
it with the spice when it is quite cold. 

BOTTLED TOMATAS, OR TOMATA CATSUP. 

Cut half a peck of ripe tomatas into quarters ; lay them on dishes, 



118 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. V. 

and sprinkle over them half a pound of salt. The next day drain the 
juice from them through a hair-sieve into a stewpan, and boil it half ai? 
hour with three dozens of small capsicums, and half a pound of escha- 
lots ; then add the tomatas, which should be ready pulped through a 
strainer. Boil the whole for thirty minutes longer; have some clean 
bottles, kept warm by the lire, fill them with the catsup while it is quite 
hot ; cork, and rosin them down directly. 

Tomatas, ^ peck ; salt, h lb. ; capsicums, 3 doz. ; eschalots, \ lb. : 
§ hour. After pulp is added, \ hour. 

Obs. — This receipt has been kindly contributed by a person who 
makes by it every year large quantities of the catsup, which is consi- 
dered excellent: for sauce, it must be mixed with gravy or melted but- 
ter. We have not ourselves been able to make trial of it. 

EPICUREAN SAUCE. 

Mix well, by shaking them in a bottle a quarter pint of Indian soy, 
half a pint of Chili vinegar, half a pint of walnut catsup, and a pint and 
a half of the best mushroom catsup. These proportions make an excel- 
lent sauce, either to mix with melted butter, and to serve with fish, or 
to add to different kinds of <fravy ; but they can be varied, or added to, 
at pleasure. 

Indian soy, ^ pint; Chili vinegar, ^ pint; walnut catsup, ^ pint; 
mushroom catsup, 1| pint. 

Obs. — A pint of port wine, a few eschalots, and some thin strips of 
lemon-rind will convert this into an admirable store-sauce. Less soy 
would adapt it better to many tastes. 

TARRAGON VINEGAR. 

Gather the tarragon just before it blossoms, which will be late in 
July, or early in August; strip it from the larger stalks, and put it into 
small stone jars or wide-necked bottles, and in doing this twist some of 
the branches so as to bruise the leaves and wring them asunder; then 
pour in sufficient distilled or very pale vinegar to cover the tarragon ; 
let it infuse for two months, or more : it will take no harm even by 
standing all the winter. When it is poured off, strain it very clear, put 
it into small dry bottles, and cork them well. Sweet basil vinegar is 
made in exactly the same way, but it should not be left on the leaves 
more than three weeks. The jars or bottles should be filled to the neck 
with the tarragon before the vinegar is added : its flavour is strong and 
peculiar, but to many tastes very agreeable. It imparts quite a foreign 
character to the dishes for which it is used. 

GREEN MINT VINEGAR. 

Pick and slightly chop, or bruise, freshly-gathered mint, and put it 
into bottles; fill them nearly to the necks, and add vinegar as for tar- 
ragon : in forty days, strain it off, and bottle it for use. 

The mint itself, ready minced for sauce, will keep well in vinegar 
though the colour will not be very good. 

CUCUMBER VINEGAR. 

First wipe, and then, without paring, slice into a jar some young and 
quickly-grown cucumbers; pour on them as much boiling vinegar as 
will cover them well, with a teaspoonful of salt and two-thirds as much 



CHAP. IV.] STORE SAT/CES. 119 

of peppercorns to the pint and a half of vinegar: it may remain on 
them for a month, or even for two, if well defended from the air. A 
mild onion can be intermixed with the cucumbers, when its flavour is 
considered an improvement. 

CELERY VINEGAR. 

Put into a wide-necked bottle or pickle-jar eight ounces of the white 
part of the root and stalks of fine fresh celery cut into slices, and pour 
on it a pint of boiling- vinegar; when a little cool, cork it down, and in 
three weeks it will be ready to strain, and to bottle for keeping. Half 
an ounce of bruised celery-seed will answer the same purpose, when the 
root cannot be obtained. This is an agreeable addition to a salad, 
when its flavour is much liked : a half-teaspoonful of salt should be 
boiled in it. 

ESCHALOT, OR GARLIC VINEGAR. 

On from four to six ounces of eschalots, or on two of garlic, peeled 
and bruised, pour a quart of the best vinegar ; stop the jar or bottle close, 
and in a fortnight or three weeks the vinegar may be strained off for 
use : a few drops will give a sufficient flavour to a sauce, or to a tureen 
of gravy. 

Eschalots, 4 to 6 ozs. ; or, garlic, 2 to 4 ozs. ; vinegar, 1 quart : 15 to 
21 days. 

Obs. — These roots may be used in smaller or in larger proportion, as 
a slighter or a stronger flavour of them is desired, and may remain longer 
in the vinegar without any detriment to it. 

ESCHALOT WINE. 

This is a far more useful preparation even than the preceding one, 
since it can be used to impart the flavour of the eschalot to dishes for 
which acid is not required. Peel and slice, or bruise, four ounces of 
eschalots, put them into a bottle, and add to them a pint of sherry; in a 
fortnight pour off the wine, and should it not be strongly flavoured with 
the eschalots, steep in it two ounces more, for another fortnight ; a half- 
teaspoonful of cayenne may be added at first The bottle should be 
shaken occasionally, while the eschalots are infusing, but should remain 
undisturbed for the last two or three days, that the wine may be clear 
when it is poured off to bottle for keeping. Sweet-basil wine is made 
by steeping the fresh leaves of the herb inline, from ten to fifteen days. 
Eschalots, 4 ozs. ; sherry 1 pint : 15 days, or more. 

HORSERADISH VINEGAR. 

On four ounces of young and freshly-scraped horseradish pour a quart 
of boiling vinegar, and cover it down closely: it will be ready for use 
in three or four days, but may remain for weeks, or months, before the 
vinegar is poured off An ounce of minced eschalot may be substituted 
for one of the horseradish, if the flavour be liked. 

CAYENNE VINEGAR. 

Put from a quarter to half an ounce of the best cayenne pepper into 
a bottle, and pour on it a pint of pale vinegar. Cork it closely, and 
shake it well every two or three days. It may remain any length o( 
time before it is poured off, but will very soon be ready for use. From 
being so extremely pungent, it is, for some purposes, preferable to Chili 



120 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. V. 

vinegar, as the cayenne seasoning- can be given with less of acid. It 
may be made of any degree of strength. We warn the young house- 
keeper against using essence of cayenne (or cayenne steeped in brandy) 
for flavouring any dishes, as the brandy is very perceptible always, and 
gives an exceedingly coarse taste. 

Good cayenne pepper, \ to ^ oz. ; vinegar, 1 pint: infuse from 2 
weeks to 12 months. 

lemon brandy ; (for flavouring sweet dishes.) 
Fill any sized wide-necked bottle lightly with the very thin rinds of 
fresh lemons, and cover them with good brandy ; let them remain three 
weeks, then strain off the spirit and keep it well corked for use: a few 
apricot-kernels blanched and infused with the lemon-rind will give an 
agreeable flavour. 

ANOTHER STORE-FLAVOURING FOR PUDDINGS OR CAKES. 

Rasp on from two to four ounces of sugar the rinds of a couple of fine 
lemons, reduce the lumps to powder, and add it gradually to, and pound 
it with, an ounce of bitter almonds, blanched and wiped very dry. 
When these have been beaten to a fine paste, and the whole is well 
blended, press the mixture into a small pan, tie a paper over, and keep 
it for use. The proportions can be varied at pleasure, and the quanti- 
ties increased : from a teaspoonful to three times as much can be mixed 
with the ingredients for a pudding. Cakes require more in proportion 
to their size. 

Rinds large lemons, 2 ; sugar, 2 to 4 ozs. ; bitter almonds, 1 oz. 

DRIED MUSHROOMS. 

Peel small, sound, freshly-gathered flaps, cut oft' the stems, and scrape 
out the fur entirely; then arrange the mushrooms singly on tins or 
dishes, and dry them as gradually as possible in a gentle oven. Put 
them, when they are done, into tin canisters, and store them where 
they will be secure from damp. French cooks give them a single boil 
in water, from which they then are well drained, and dried, as usual. 
When wanted for table, they should be put into cold gravy, slowly 
heated, and gently simmered, until they are tender. 

MUSHROOM POWDER. 

When the mushrooms have been prepared with great nicety, and 
dried, as in the foregoing receipt, pound them to a very fine powder ; 
sift it, and put it immediately into small and perfectly dry bottles ; cork 
and seal them without delay, for if the powder be long exposed to the 
air, so as to imbibe any humidity, or if it be not well secured from it in 
the bottles, it will be likely to become putrid: much of that which is 
purchased, even at the best Italian warehouses, is found to be so, and, 
as it is sold at a very high price, it is a great economy, as well as a 
surer plan, to have it carefully prepared at home. It is an exceedingly 
useful store, and an elegant addition to many dishes and sauces. To 
insure its being good, the mushrooms should be gathered in dry wea- 
ther, and if any addition of spices be made to the powder (some persons 
mix with it a seasoning of mace and cayenne), they should be put into 
the oven for awhile before they are used : but even these precautions 
"ill not be sufficient, unless the powder be stored in a very dry place 



CHAP. V.] STORE SAUCES. 121 

after it is bottled. A teaspoonful of it, with a quarter-pint of strong 
veal gravy, as much cream, and a small dessertspoonful of flour, will 
make an excellent bechamel or white sauce. 

potato flour ; (Fecule de Pommes de terre.) 
Grate into a large vessel full of cold water, six pounds of sound 
mealy potatoes, and stir them well together. In six hours pour off the 
water, and add fresh, stirring the mixture well; repeat this process 
every three or four hours during the day, change the water at night, 
and the next morning pour it off; put two or three quarts more to the 
potatoes, and turn them directly into a hair-sieve, set over a pan to 
receive the flour, which may then be washed through the sieve, by 
pouring water to it. Let it settle in the pan, drain off the water, spread 
the potato-sediment on dishes, dry it in a slow oven, sift it, and put it 
into bottles or jars, and cork or cover them closely. The flour thus 
made will be beautifully white, and perfectly tasteless. It will remain 
good for years. 

TO make flour of rice. 
Take any quantity of whole rice, wash it thoroughly, changing the 
water several times ; drain and press it in a cloth, then spread it on a 
dish, and dry it perfectly ; beat it in a mortar to a smooth powder, and 
sift it through a fine sieve. When used to thicken soup or sauces, mix 
it with a small quantity of cold water or of broth, and pour it to them 
while they are boiling. 

This flour, when newly made, is of much purer flavour than any 
usually prepared for sale. 

POWDER OF SAVOURY HERBS. 

All herbs which are to be dried for storing should be gathered in fine 
weather ; cleared from dirt and decayed leaves ; and dried quickly, but 
without scorching, in a Dutch oven before the fire, or in any other that 
is not too much heated. The leaves should then be stripped from the 
stalks, pounded, sifted, and closely corked in separate bottles; or several 
kinds may be mixed and pounded together for the convenience of sea- 
soning in an instant gravies, soups, forcemeats, and made dishes : appro- 
priate spices, celery-seed, and dried lemon-peel, all in fine powder, can 
be added to the herbs. 

THE DOCTOR'S ZEST. 

Pound to the finest powder, separately, eight ounces of basket salt, a 
quarter-ounce of cayenne, a drachm of mace, and of nutmeg; of cloves 
and pimento, a drachm and a half each ; then add the other ingredi- 
ents, one by one, to the salt, and pound them together until they are 
perfectly well blended. Put the zest into wide-mouthed phials, and 
cork them tightly. Half an ounce of mushroom-powder, and a drachm 
of dried lemon-peel, will greatly improve this mixture. 



^22 MODERN COOKERY. [*CHAP. VI 



CHAPTER VI. 
FORCEMEATS. 

GENERAL REMARKS- 

The coarse and unpalatable compounds so constantly met with under 
the denomination of forcemeat, even at tables otherwise tolerably well 
served, show with how little attention they are commonly prepared. 

Many very indifferent cooks pique themselves on never doing any 
thing by rule, and the consequence of their throwing together at ran- 
dom (or "by guess" as they call it) the ingredients which ought to be 
proportioned with exceeding delicacy and exactness is, repeated failure 
in all they attempt to do. Long experience and a very correct eye 
may, it is true, enable a person to dispense occasionally with weights 
and measures, without hazarding the success of their operations; but it 
is an experiment which the learner will do better to avoid. 

A large marble or Wedgwood mortar is indispensable in making all 
the finer kinds of forcemeat ; and equally so indeed for many other pur- 
poses in cookery ; no kitchen, therefore, should be without one ; and 
for whatever preparation it may be used, the pounding should be con- 
tinued with patience and perseverance until not a single lump nor fibre 
be perceptible in the mass of the articles beaten together. This parti- 
cularly applies to potted meats, which should resemble the smoothest 
paste ; as well as to several varieties of forcemeat. Of these last it 
should be observed, that such as are made by the French method (see 
quenelles) are the most appropriate for an elegant dinner, either to 
serve in soups or to fill boned poultry of any kind; but when their 
exceeding lightness, which to foreigners constitutes one of their great- 
est excellencies, is objected to, it may be remedied by substituting dry 
crumbs of bread for the panada, and pounding a small quantity of the 
lean of a boiled ham, with the other ingredients: however, this should 
be done only for the balls. 

No particular herb or spice should be allowed to predominate power- 
fully in these compositions; but the whole of the seasonings should be 
taken in such quantity only as will produce an agreeable savour when 
they are blended together. 

NO. 1. GOOD COMMON FORCEMEAT, FOR ROAST VEAL, TURKEYS, &C. 

Grate very lightly into exceedingly fine crumbs, four ounces of the 
inside of a stale loaf, and mix thoroughly with it, a quarter of an ounce 
of lemon-rind pared as thin as possible, and minced extremely small ; 
the same quantity of savoury herbs, of which two-thirds should be pars- 
ley, and one-third thyme, likewise finely minced, a little grated nut- 
meg, a half-teaspoonful of salt, and as much common pepper or cayenne 
as will season the forcemeat sufficiently. Break into these, two ounces 
of good butter in very small bits, add the unbeaten yolk of one egg, and 
with the fingers work the whole well together until it is smoothly 
mixed. It is usual to chop the lemon-rind, but we prefer it lightly 
grated on a fine grater. It should always be fresh for the purpose, or 
it will be likely to impart a very unpleasant flavour to the forcemeat. 



CHAP. VI.] FORCEMEATS. 128 

Half the rind of a moderate-sized lemon will be sufficient for this quan- 
tity ; which for a large turkey must be increased one-half. 

Bread-crumbs, 4 ozs. ; lemon-rind, \ oz. (or grated rind of h lemon) ; 
mixed savoury herbs, minced, $ oz. ; salt, ^ teaspoonful ; pepper ^ to i 
of teaspoonful ; butter, 2 ozs. ; yolk, 1 egg. 

Obs. — This, to our taste, is a much nicer and more delicate force- 
meat than that which is made with chopped suet, and we would recom- 
mend it for trial in preference. Any variety of herb or spice may be 
used to give it flavour, and a little minced onion or eschalot can be add- 
ed to it also; but these last do not appear to us suited to the meats for 
which the forcemeat is more particularly intended. Half an ounce of 
the butter may be omitted on ordinary occasions: and a portion of mar- 
joram or of sweet basil may take the place of part of the thyme and 
parsley when preferred to them. 

NO. 2. ANOTHER GOOD COMMON FORCEMEAT. 

Add to four ounces of bread-crumbs two of the lean of a boiled ham, 
quite free from sinew, and very finely minced ; two of good butter, a 
dessertspoonful of herbs, chopped small, some lemon-grate, nutmeg, a 
little salt, a good seasoning of pepper or cayenne, and one whole egg, 
or the yolks of two. This may be fried in balls of moderate size, for 
five minutes, to serve with roast veal, or it may be put into the joint in 
the usual way. 

Bread-crumbs, 4 ozs. ; lean of ham, 2 ozs. ; butter, 2 ozs. ; minced herbs, 
1 dessertspoonful ; lemon-grate, 1 teaspoonful ; nutmeg, mace,and cay- 
enne, together, 1 small teaspoonful ; little salt ; 1 whole egg, or yolks of 2. 

NO. 3. SUr-ERIOR SUET FORCEMEAT, FOR VEAL, TURKEYS, &C. 

Mix well together six ounces of fine stale crumbs, with an equal 
weight of beef-kidney suet, chopped extremely small, a large dessert- 
spoonful of parsley, mixed with a little lemon-thyme, a teaspoonful of 
salt, a quarter one of cayenne, and a saltspoonful or rather more of 
mace and nutmeg together ; work these up with three unbeaten egg- 
yolks, and three teaspoonsful of milk; then put the forcemeat intcTa 
large mortar, and pound it perfectly smooth. Take it out, and let it 
remain in a cool place for half an hour at least before it is used : then roll 
it into balls, if it be wanted to serve in that form ; flour and fry them gen- 
tly from seven to eight minutes, and dry them well before theyare dished. 

Beef suet finely minced, 6 ozs. ; bread-crumbs, 6 ozs. ; parsley, mixed 
with little thyme, 1 large dessertspoonful ; salt, 1 teaspoonful ; mace, 
large saltspoonful, and one-fourth as much cayenne ; unbeaten egg-yolks, 
3; milk, 3 teaspoonsful: well pounded. Fried in balls, 7 to 8 minutes, 
or poached, 6 to 7. 

Obs.— The finely grated rind of half a lemon can be added to this 
forcemeat at pleasure; and for some purposes a morsel of garlic, or 
three or four minced eschalots, may be mixed with it before it is put 
into the mortar. 

NO. 4. COMMON SUET FORCEMEAT. 

Beef suet is commonly used in the composition of this kind of force- 
meat, but we think that veal-kidney suet, when it could be obtained, 
would have a better effect; though the reader will easily comprehend 
that it is scarcely possible for us to have every variety of every receipt 



124 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. VI. 

which we insert put to the test: in some cases we are compelled mere- 
ly to suggest what appear to us likely to be improvements. Strip care- 
fully every morsel of skin from the suet, and mince it small ; to six 
ounces add eight of bread-crumbs, with the same proportion of herbs, 
spice, salt, and lemon-peel, as in the foregoing receipt, and a couple of 
whole eggs, which should be very slightly beaten, after the specks 
have been taken out with the point of a small fork. Should more liquid 
be required, the yolk of another egg, or a spoonful or two of milk, may 
be used. Half this quantity will be sufficient for a small joint of veal, 
or for a dozen balls, which, when it is more convenient to serve it in 
that form, may be fried or browned beneath the roast, and then dished 
round it, though this last is not a very refined mode of dressing them. 
From eight to ten minutes will dry them well. 

NO. 5. OYSTER FORCEMEAT. 

Open carefully a dozen fine plump natives, take off the beards, strain 
their liquor, and rinse the oysters in it. Grate four ounces of the crumb 
of a stale loaf into fine light crumbs, mince the oysters, but not too 
small, and mix them with the bread ; add an ounce and a half of good 
butter, broken into minute bits, the grated rind of half a small lemon, 
a small saltspoonful of pounded mace, some cayenne, a little salt, and a 
large teaspoonful of parsley: mix these ingredients well, and work 
them together with the unbeaten yolk of one egg, and a little of the 
oyster liquor, the remainder of which can be added to the sauce which 
usually accompanies this forcemeat. 

Oysters, 1 dozen ; bread-crumbs, 4 ozs. ; butter, 1^ oz. ; rind \ small 
lemon; mace, 1 saltspoonful; some cayenne and salt; minced parsley, 
1 large teaspoonful; yolk 1 egg; oyster-liquor, 1 dessertspoonful: rolled 
into balls, and fried from 7 to 10 minutes, or poached from 5 to 6 
minutes. 

Obs. — In this forcemeat the flavour of the oysters should prevail 
entirely over that of all the other ingredients which are mixed with 
them. 

NO. 6. A FINER OYSTER FORCEMEAT. 

Pound the preceding forcemeat to -the smoothest paste, with the addi- 
tion only of half an ounce of fresh butter, should it be sufficiently dry to 
allow of it. It is remarkably good when thus prepared, and may be 
poached or fried in balls for soups or made dishes, or used to fill boned 
fowls, or the breasts of boiled turkeys with equally good effect. 

NO. 7. MUSHROOM FORCEMEAT. 

Cut closely off the stems of some small, just-opened mushrooms, peel 
them, and take out the fur. Dissolve an ounce and a half of good but- 
ter in a saucepan, throw them into it with a little cayenne, and a slight 
sprinkling of mace, and stew them softly, keeping them well shaken, 
from five to seven minutes; then turn them into a dish, spread them 
over it, and raise one end, that the liquid may drain from them. When 
they are quite cold, mince, and then mix them with four ounces of fins 
bread-crumbs, an ounce and a half of good butter, and part of that in 
which they were stewed, should the forcemeat appear too moist to 
admit of the whole, as the yolk of one egg, at the least, must be added, 
to bind the ingredients together; strew in a saltspoonful of salt, a third 



CHAP. VI.] FORCEMEATS. 125 

as much of cayenne, and about the same quantity of mace and nutmeg-, 
with a teaspoonful of grated lemon-rind. The seasonings must be rather 
sparingly used, that the flavour of the mushrooms may not be over- 
powered by them. Mix the whole thoroughly with the unbeaten yolk 
of one egg, or of two, and use the forcemeat poached in small balls for 
soup, or fried and served in the dish with roast fowls, or round minced 
veal ; or to fill boiled fowls, partridges, or turkeys. 

Small mushrooms, peeled and trimmed, 4 ozs. ; butter, 1^ oz. ; slight 
sprinkling mace and cayenne : 5 to 7 minutes. Mushrooms minced ; 
bread-crumbs, 4 ozs.; butter, I3 oz. (with part of that used in the stew- 
ing) ; salt, 1 saltspoonful ; third as much of cayenne, of mace, and of 
nutmeg; grated lemon-rind, 1 teaspoonful; yolk of 1 or 2 eggs. In 
balls, poached, 5 to 6 minutes ; fried, 6 to 8 minutes. 

Obs. — This, like most other forcemeats, is improved by being well 
beaten in a large mortar after it is entirely mixed. 

NO. 8. ONION AND SAGE STUFFING, FOR PORK, GEESE, OR DUCKS. 

Boil three large onions from ten to fifteen minutes, chop them small, 
and mix with them an equal quantity of bread-crumbs, a heaped table- 
spoonful of minced sage, an ounce of butter, a half saltspoonful of pep- 
per, and twice as much of salt, and put them into the body of the goose; 
part of the liver boiled for two or three minutes, and shred fine, is some- 
times added to these, and the whole is bound together with an egg-yolk 
or two ; but they are quite as frequently served without. The onions 
can be used raw, when their very strong flavour is not objected to, but 
the odour of the whole dish will then be somewhat overpowering. 

Large onions, 3 : boiled 20 to 30 minutes. Sage, 2 to 3 dessertspoons- 
ful (or \ to £ oz.) ; butter, 1 oz. ; pepper, £ teaspoonful ; salt, 1 tea- 
spoonful. 

S NO. 9. MR. COOKE'S FORCEMEAT FOR DUCKS OR GEESE. 

Two parts of chopped onion, two parts of bread-crumbs, three of but- 
ter, one of pounded sage, and a seasoning of pepper and salt. 
This receipt we have not proved. 

NO. 10. FORCEMEAT BALLS FOR MOCK TURTLE SOUPS. 

The French forcemeat, No. 15 of the present Chapter, is the most 
elegant and appropriate forcemeat to serve in mock turtle, but a more 
solid and highly seasoned one is usually added to it in this country. In 
very common cookery the ingredients are merely chopped small and 
mixed together with a moistening of eggs ; but when the trouble of 
pounding and blending them properly is objected to, we would recom- 
mend the common veal forcemeat, No. 1, in preference, as the undressed 
veal and suet, when merely minced, do not produce a good effect. Four 
ounces each of these, with an ounce or so of the lean of a boiled ham, 
and three ounces of bread-crumbs, a large dessertspoonful of minced 
parsley, a small portion of thyme, or marjoram, a saltspoonful of white 
pepper, twice as much salt, or more, a little cayenne, half a small nut 
meg, and a couple of eggs, well mixed with a fork first, to separate the 
meat, and after the moistening is added, with the fingers, then rolled 
into balls, and boiled in a little soup for twelve minutes, is the manner 
in which it is prepared ; but the reader w T ill find the following receipt 
very suoerior to it: — Rasp, that is to say, scrape with a knife, clear 



126 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. VI. 

from the fibre, four ounces of veal, which should be cut into thick slices, 
and taken quite free from skin and fat ; chop it fine, and then pound it 
as smoothly as possible in a large mortar, with three ounces of the 
rasped fat of an unboiled ham, of good flavour, or of the finest bacon, 
and one of butter, two ounces of bread-crumbs, a tablespoonful of the 
lean of a boiled ham, should it be at hand, a good seasoning of cayenne, 
nutmeg, and mace, mixed together, a heaped dessertspoonful of minced 
herbs, and the yolks of two eggs; poach a small bit when it is mixed, 
and add any further seasoning it may require; and when it is of good 
flavour, roll it into balls of moderate size, and boil them twelve minutes; 
then drain and slip them into the soup. No forcemeat should be boiled 
in the soup itself, on account of the fat which would escape from it in 
the process : a little stock should be reserved for the purpose. 

Very common : — Lean of neck of veal, 4 ozs. ; beef-kidney suet, 4 
ozs., both finely chopped ; bread-crumbs, 3 ozs. ; minced parsley, large 
dessertspoonful ; thyme or marjoram, small teaspoonful ; lean of boiled 
ham, 1 to 2 ozs. ; white pepper, 1 saltspoonful ; salt, twice as much ; 
§ small nutmeg ; eggs, 2 : in balls, 12 minutes. 

Better forcemeat : — Lean veal rasped, 4 ozs. ; fat of unboiled ham, or 
finest bacon, 3 ozs. ; butter, 1 oz. ; bread-crumbs, 2 ozs. ; lean of boiled 
ham, minced, 1 large tablespoonful ; minced herbs, 1 heaped dessert- 
spoonful ; full seasoning of mace, nutmeg, and cayenne, mixed ; yolks 
of eggs, 2 : 12 minutes. 

NO. 11. EGG BALLS. 

Boil four or five new-laid eggs for ten or twelve minutes, and lay 
them into fresh water until they are cold. Take out the yolks, and 
pound them smoothly with the beaten yolk of one raw egg, or more, if 
required; add a little salt and cayenne, roll the mixture into very small 
balls, and boil them for two minutes. Half a teaspoonful of flour is 
sometimes worked up with the eggs. 

Hard yolks of eggs, 4 ; 1 raw ; little salt, cayenne : 2 minutes. 

NO. 12. BRAIN CAKES. 

Wash and soak the brains well in cold water, and afterwards in hot; 
then remove the skin and large fibres, and boil them in water, slightly 
salted, from two to three minutes; beat them up with a teaspoonful of 
sage, very finely chopped, or with equal parts of sage and parsley, half 
a teaspoonful or rather more of salt, half as much mace, a little white 
pepper or cayenne, and one egg; drop them in small cakes, and fry them 
a fine light brown: two yolks of eggs will make the cakes more deli- 
cate than the white and yolk of one. A teaspoonful of flour and a little 
lemon-grate are sometimes added. 

NO. 13. ANOTHER RECEIPT FOR BRAIN CAKES. 

Boil the brains in a little good veal-gravy very gently for ten minutes, 
drain them on a sieve, and when cold, cut them into thick dice ; dip 
them into beaten yolk of egg, and then into very fine bread-crumbs, 
mixed with salt, pounded spices, and fine herbs, minced extremely 
small ; fry them of a light brown, drain and dry them well, and slip 
them into the soup or hash after it is dished. When broth or gravy is 
not at hand, the brains may be boiled in water. 



CHAP. VI.] FORCEMEATS. 127 

NO. 14. AN EXCELLENT FRENCH FORCEMEAT. 

Take six ounces of veal free from fat and skin, cut it into dice and 
put it into a saucepan with two ounces of butter, a large teaspoonful of 
parsley finely minced, half as much thyme, salt, and grated lemon-rind, 
and a sufficient seasoning - of nutmeg, cayenne, and mace, to flavour it 
pleasantly. Stew these very gently from twelve to fifteen minutes, 
then lift out the veal and put into the saucepan two ounces of bread- 
crumbs; let them simmer until they have absorbed the gravy yielded 
by the meat; keep them stirred until they are as dry as possible; beat 
the yolk of an egg to them while they are hot, and set them aside to 
cool. Chop and pound the veal, add the bread to it as soon as it is cold, 
beat them well together, with an ounce and a half of fresh butter, and 
two of the finest bacon, scraped quite clear from rust, skin, and fibre ; 
put to them the yolks of two small eggs, and mix them well ; then take 
the forcemeat from the mortar, and set it in a very cool place until it 
is wanted for use. 

Veal, 6 ozs. ; butter, 2 ozs. ; minced parsley, 1 teaspoonful ; thyme, 
salt, and lemon-peel, each ^ teaspoonful ; little nutmeg, cayenne, and 
mace : 12 to 15 minutes. Bread-crumbs, 2 ozs. ; butter, 1| oz. ; rasped 
bacon, 2 ozs. ; yolks of eggs, 2 to 3. 

06*. 1. — When this forcemeat is intended to fill boned fowls, the 
livers of two or three, boiled for four minutes, or stewed with the veal 
for the same length of time, then minced and pounded with the other 
ingredients, will be found a great improvement; and, if mushrooms can 
be procured, two tablespoonsful of them chopped small, should be stewed 
and beaten with it also. A small portion of the best end of the neck 
will afford the quantity of lean required for this receipt, and the remains 
of it will make excellent gravy. 

NO. 15. FRENCH FORCEMEAT CALLED QUENELLES. 

This is a peculiarly light and delicate kind of forcemeat, which, by 
good French cooks, is compounded with exceeding care. It is served 
abroad in a variety of forms, and is made of very finely-grained white 
veal, or of the undressed flesh of poultry, or of rabbits, rasped quite free 
from sinew, then chopped and pounded to the finest paste, first by itself, 
and afterwards with an equal quantity of boiled calf's udder or of but- 
ter, and of panada, which is but another name for bread soaked in 
cream or gravy and then dried over the fire until it forms a sort of 
paste. As the three ingredients should be equal in volume, not in 
weight, they are each rolled into a separate ball before they are mixed, 
that their size may be determined by the eye. When the fat of the 
fillet of veal (which in England is not often divided for sale, as it is in 
France) is not to be procured, a rather less proportion of butter will 
serve in its stead. The following will be found a very good, and not a 
troublesome receipt for veal forcemeat of this kind. 

Rasp quite clear from sinew, after the fat and skin have been entirely 
cleared from it, four ounces of the finest veal ; chop, and pound it well : 
if it be carefully prepared there will be no necessity for passing it 
through a sieve, but this should otherwise be done. Soak in a small 
waucepan two ounces of the crumb of a stale loaf in a little rich but 



128 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. VI. 

pale veal gravy, or white sauce ; then press and drain as much as pos- 
sible of the moisture from it, and stir it over a gentle fire until it is as 
dry as it will become without burning- : it will adhere in a ball to the 
spoon, and leave the saucepan quite dry when it is sufficiently done. 
Mix with it, while it is still hot, the yolk of one egg, and when it is 
quite cold, add it to the veal with three ounces of very fresh butter, a 
quarter-teaspoonful of mace, half as much cayenne, a little nutmeg - , and 
a saltspoonful of salt. When these are perfectly beaten, and well 
blended together, add another whole egg after having merely taken out 
the germs ; the mixture will then be ready for use, and may be moulded 
into balls, or small thick oval shapes, a little flattened, and poached in 
soup or gravy from ten to fifteen minutes. These quenelles may be 
served by themselves in a rich sauce, as a corner dish, or in conjunction 
with other things. They may likewise be first poached for three or 
four minutes, and left on a drainer to become cold ; then dipped into 
egg and the finest bread-crumbs, and fried, and served as croquettes. 

NO. 16. FORCEMEAT FOR RAISED AND OTHER COLD PIES. 

The very finest sausage-meat, highly seasoned, and made with an 
equal proportion of fat and lean, is an exceedingly good forcemeat for 
veal, chicken, rabbit, and some few other pies; savoury herbs minced 
small, may be added to heighten its flavour, if it be intended for imme- 
diate eating ; but it will not then remain good quite so long, unless they 
should have been previously dried. To prevent its being too dry, two 
or three spoonsful of cold water should be mixed with it before it is put 
into the pie. One pound of lean veal to one and a quarter of the pork- 
fat is sometimes used, and smoothly pounded with a high seasoning of 
spices, herbs, and eschalots, or garlic, but we cannot recommend the 
introduction of these last into pies unless they are especially ordered : 
mushrooms may be mixed with any kind of forcemeat with far better 
effect. Equal parts of veal and fat bacon will also make a good force- 
meat for pies, if chopped finely and well spiced. 

Sausage-meat, well seasoned. Or: veal, 1 lb. ; pork-fat, 1^ lb.; salt, 
1 oz. ; pepper, } to \ oz. ; fine herbs, spice, &c, as in forcemeat No. 1, 
or sausage-meat. Or : veal and bacon, equal weight, seasoned in the 
same way. 

PANADA. 

This is the name given to the soaked bread which is mixed with the 
French forcemeats, and which renders them so peculiarly delicate. 
Pour on the crumb of two or three rolls, or on that of any other very 
light bread, as much good boiling broth, milk, or cream as will cover 
and moisten it well ; put a plate over to keep in the steam, and let il 
remain for half an hour, or more; then drain off the superfluous liquid, 
and squeeze the panada dry by wringing it round in a thin cloth into a 
ball; put it into a small stewpan, or well tinned saucepan, and pour to 
it as much only of rich white sauce, or of gravy, as it can easily absorb, 
and stir it constantly with a wooden spoon, over a clear and gentle fire, 
until it forms a very dry paste, and adheres in a mass to the spoon ; 
when it is in this state, mix with it, thoroughly, the unbeaten yolk of 
two fresh eggs, which will give it firmness, and set it aside to become 



CHAP. VII.] BOILING, ROASTING, &C. 129 

quite cold before it is put into the mortar. The best French cooks give 
the highest degree of savour that they can to this panada, and add no 
other seasoning to the forcemeats of which it forms a part : it is used 
in an equal proportion with the meat, and calf's udder or buttei of 
which they are composed, as we have shown in the preceding receipt 
for quenelles. They stew slowly, for the purpose, a small bit of lean 
ham, two or three minced eschalots, a bayleaf, a few mushrooms, a 
little parsley, a clove or two, and a small blade of mace, in a little good 
butter, and when they are sufficiently browned, pour to them as much 
broth or gravy as will be needed for the panada ; and when this hat- 
simmered from twenty to thirty minutes, so as to have acquired the 
proper flavour, without being much reduced, they strain it over, and 
boil it into the bread. The common course of cookery in an English 
kitchen does not often require the practice of the greater niceties and 
refinements of the art : and trouble (of which the French appear to be 
perfectly regardless when the excellence of their preparations is con- 
cerned) is there in general so much thought of, and exclaimed against, 
that a more summary process would probably meet with a better chance 
of success. 

A quicker and rougher mode of making the panada, and indeed the 
forcemeat altogether, is to pour strong veal broth or gravy upon it, and 
after it has soaked, to boil it dry, without any addition except that of a 
little fine spice, lemon-grate, or any other favourite seasoning. Minced 
herbs, salt, cayenne, and mace may be beaten with the meat, to which 
a small portion of well-pounded ham may likewise be added at pleasure. 



CHAPTER VII. 

BOILING, ROASTING, &c. 

TO BOIL MEAT. 



Large joints of meat should be neatly trimmed, washed extremely 
clean, and skewered or bound firmly into good shape, wnen they are of 
a nature to require it; then well covered with cold water, brought to 
boil over a moderate fire, and simmered until they are done, the scum 
being carefully and entirely cleaned from the surface of the water, as it 
gathers there, which will be principally from within a few minutes of 
its beginning to boil, and during a few minutes afterwards. If not tho- 
roughly skimmed off at the proper time, it will sink, and adhere to the 
joint, giving it a very uninviting appearance. 

We cannot too strongly again impress upon the cook the advantages 
of gentle simmering over the usual fast-boiling of meat, by which, as 
has been already forcibly shown (see article Bouillon, Chapter I.), the 
outside is hardened and deprived of its juices before the inside is half 
done, while the starting of the flesh from the bones which it occasions, 
and the altogether ragged aspect which it gives, are most unsightly. 



130 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. VII. 

Pickled or salted meat requires longer boiling than fresh ; and that 
which is smoked and dried longer still. This last should always be 
slowly heated, and if, from any circumstances, time cannot have been 
allowed for soaking it properly, and there is a probability of its being 
too salt when served, it should be brought very softly to boil in a large 
quantity of water, which should in part be changed as soon as it be- 
comes quite briny, for as much more that is ready boiling. 

It is customary to lay large joints upon a fish-plate, or to throw some 
wooden skewers under them, to prevent their sticking to the vessel in 
which they are cooked ; and it is as well to take the precaution, though, 
unless they be placed over a very fierce fire, they cannot be in danger 
of this. The time allowed for them is about the same as for roasting, 
from fifteen to twenty minutes to the pound. For cooking rounds of 
beef, and other ponderous joints, a pan of this form is very convenient. 

By means of two almost equally expensive preparations, called a 
poelee, and a blanc, the insipidity which results from boiling meat or 
\egetables in water only, may be removed, and the whiteness of either 
will be better preserved. Turkeys, fowls, sweetbreads, calf's brains, 
cauliflowers, and artichoke bottoms, are the articles for which the poelee 
and the blanc are more especially used for refined foreign cookery : the 
reader will judge by the following receipts how far they are admissible 
into that of the economist. 

POELEE. 

Cut into large dice two pounds of lean veal, and two pounds of fat 
bacon, cured without saltpetre, two large carrots, and two onions; to 
these add half a pound of fresh butter, put the whole into a stewpan, and 
stir it with a wooden spoon over a gentle fire, until the veal is very 
white, and the bacon is partially melted ; then pour to them three pints 
of clear boiling broth or water, throw in four cloves, a small bunch 01 
two of thyme and parsley, a bay-leaf, and a few corns of white pepper; 
boil these gently for an hour and a half, then strain the poelee through 
a fine sieve, and set it by in a cool place. Use is instead of water toi 
boiling the various articles we have already named : it will answer foi 
several in succession, and will remain good for many days. Some cooks 
order a pound of butter in addition to the bacon, and others substitute 
beef-suet in part for this last. 

A BLANC. 

Put into a stewpan one pound of fat bacon rasped, one pound of beef 
suet cut small, and one pound of butter, the strained juice of two lemons, 
a couple of bay-leaves, three cloves, three carrots, and three onions 
divided into dice, and less than half a pint of water. Simmer these 
gently, keeping them often stirred, until the tat is well melted, and the 
water has evaporated ; then pour in rather more than will be required 
for the dish which is to be cooked in the blanc ; boil it softly until all 
the ingredients have given out their full flavour, skim it well, and salt 
if needed, and strain it off for use. A calf's head is often boiled in this. 



CHAP. VII.] 



BOILING, ROASTING, &C. 



131 



ROASTING. 

Roasting 1 , which is quite the favourite 
mode of dressing meat in the United States, 
and one, of consequence, most familiar 
to us, requires unremitting attention on 
the part of the cook, rather than any great 
exertion of skill. Large kitchens are 
usually fitted with a smoke-jack, by means 
of which several spits, if needful, can be 
kept turning at the same time; but in 
small establishments, a roaster which al- 
lows of some economy in point of fuel is 
more commonly used. That shown in the 
print is of very advantageous construction 
in this respect, as a joint may be cooked 
in it with a comparatively small fire, the 
heat being strongly reflected from the 
screen upon the meat ; in consequence of 
this, it should never be placed very close 
to the grate, as the surface of the joint 
would then become dry and hard. 

A more convenient form of roaster, with 
a spit placed horizontally, and turned by 
means of a wheel and chain, of which the 
movement is regulated by a spring con- 
tained in a box at the top, is of the same 
economical order as the one above. 

For roasting without either of these, 
make up a fire proportioned in width and 
height to the joint which is to be roasted, 
and which it should surpass in dimensions 
every way, by two or three inches. Place 
some moderate-sized lumps of coal on the 
top ; let it be free from smoke and ashes 
in front; and so compactly arranged that 
it will neither require to be disturbed, nor 
supplied with fresh fuel, for some con- 
siderable time after the meat is laid down. 
Spit the joint and place it very far from 
the fire at first; keep it constantly basted, 
and when it is two parts done, move it nearer to the fire that it may be 
properly browned ; but guard carefully against it being burned. A 
few minutes before it is taken from the spit, sprinkle a little fine salt 
over it, baste it thoroughly with its own dripping, or with butter, and 
dredge it with flour : as soon as the froth is well risen, dish, and serve 
the meat. Or, to avoid the necessity of the frothing, which is often 
greatly objected to on account of the raw taste retained by the flou« 
dredge the roast liberally soon after it is first laid to the fire ; the flour 

* The boltle-jack, without the screen, is used in many families very successfully; it 
is wound up like a watch, by means of a key, and turns very regularly until it haa 
run down. 




Improved Spring-jack and 
Roaster. 



J 32 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. VII. 

will then form a savoury incrustation upon it, and assist to prevent the 
escape of its juices. When meat or poultry is wrapped in buttered 
paper it must not be floured until this is removed, which should be fif- 
teen or twenty minutes before either is served. 

Remember always to draw back the dripping-pan when the fire has 
to be stirred, or when fresh coals are thrown on, that the cinders and 
ashes may not fall into it. 

When meat is very lean, a slice of butter, or a small quantity of cla- 
rified dripping should be melted in the pan to baste it with at first; 
though the use of the latter should be scrupulously avoided for poultry, 
or any delicate meats, as the flavour it imparts is to many persons pe- 
culiarly objectionable. Let the spit be kept bright and clean, and wipe 
it before the meat is put on ; balance the joint well upon it, that it may 
turn steadily, and if needful secure it with screw-skewers. A cradle 
spit, which is so constructed that it contains the meat in a sort of frame- 
work, instead of passing through it, may be often very advantageously 
used instead of an ordinary one, as the perforation of the meat by this 
last must always occasion some escape of the juices ; and it is, more- 
over, particularly to be objected to in roasting joints or poultry which 
have been boned and filled with forcemeat. The cradle spit (for which 
see " Turkey Boned and Forced," Chapter XII.) is much better suited 
to these, as well as to a sucking pig, sturgeon, salmon, and other large 
fish ; but it is not very commonly to be found in our kitchens, many of 
which exhibit a singular scantiness of the conveniences which facilitate 
the labours of the cook. 

For heavy and substantial joints, a quarter of an hour is generally 
allowed for every pound of meat ; and, with a sound fire and frequent 
basting, will be found sufficient when the process is conducted in the 
usual manner ; but by the slow method, as we shall designate it, almost 
double the time will be required. Pork, veal, and lamb, should always 
be well roasted ; but many eaters prefer mutton and beef rather under- 
dressed, though some persons have a strong objection to the sight even 
of any meat that is not thoroughly cooked. 

Joints which are thin in proportion to their weight, require less of 
the fire than thick and solid ones. Ribs of beef, for example, will be 
sooner ready to serve than an equal weight of the rump, round or sir- 
loin ; and the neck or shoulder of mutton, or spare rib of pork, than 
the leg. 

When to preserve the succulence of the meat is more an object than 
to economize fuel, beef and mutton should be laid at twice the usual dis- 
tance from the fire, and allowed to remain so until they are perfectly 
heated through; the roasting, so managed, will of course be slow; and 
from three hours and a half to four hours will be necessary to cook by 
this method a leg of mutton of ordinary size, for which two hours would 
amply suffice in a common way; but the flesh will be remarkably ten- 
der, and the flow of gravy from it most abundant. It should not be 
drawn near the fire until within the last hour, and should then be 
placed only so close as to brown it properly. No kind of roast indeed 
should at any time be allowed to take colour too quickly ; it should be 
heated gradually, and kept at least at a moderate distance from the fire 
until it is nearly done, or the outside will be dry and hard, if not burned, 
while the inside will be only half-cooked. 



CHAP. VII.J 



BOILING, ROASTING, &C. 



133 




STEAMING. 

The application of steam to culinary pur- 
poses is becoming very general in our kitchens 
at the present day, especially in those of large 
establishments, many of which are furnished 
with apparatus for its use, so admirably con- 
structed, and so complete, that the process may 
be conducted on an extensive scale, with very 
slight trouble to the cook ; and with the fur- 
ther advantage of being at a distance from the 
fire, the steam being conveyed by pipes to the Saucepan, with Steamer, 
vessels intended to receive it. Fish, butcher's meat, poultry, vegeta- 
bles, puddings, maccaroni, and rice, are all subjected to its action, in- 
stead of being immersed in water, as in simple boiling ; and the result 
is to many persons perfectly satisfactory : though, as there is a differ- 
ence of opinion amongst first-rate cooks, with regard to the comparative 
merits of the two modes of dressing meat and fish, a trial should be 
given to the steaming, on a small scale, before any great expenses are 
incurred for it, which may be done easily with a common saucepan or 
boiler, fitted like the one shown above, with a simple tin steamer. Ser- 
vants not accustomed to the use of these, should be warned against boil- 
ing in the vessel itself any thing of coarse or strong flavour, when the 
article steamed is of a delicate nature. The vapour from soup contain- 
ing onions, for example, would have a very bad effect on a sweet pud- 
ding especially, and on many other dishes. Care and discretion, there- 
fore, must be exercised on this point. By means of a kettle fixed over 
it, the steam of the boiler in the kitchen range, may be made available 
for cooking, in the way shown by the engraving, which exhibits fish, 
potatoes, and their sauces, all in progress 
of steaming at the same time. The limits 
of our work do not permit us to enter at 
much length upon this subject, but the 
reader who may wish to understand the na- 
ture of steam, and the various modes in 
which its agency may be applied to domes- 
tic purposes, will do well to consult Mr. 
Webster's excellent work, (Encyclopaedia 
of Domestic Economy,) of which we have 
more particularly spoken in another chap- 
ter. The quite inexperienced cook may require to be told, that any 
article of food which is to be cooked by steam in a saucepan of the form 
exhibited in the first of the engravings of this section, must be prepared 
exactly as for boiling, and laid into the sort of strainer affixed to the top 
of the saucepan; and that water, or some other kind of liquid, must be 
put into the saucepan itself, and kept boiling in it, the lid being first 
closely fixed into the steamer. 

STEWING. 

This very wholesome, convenient, and economical mode of cookery is 
by no means so well understood nor profited by in England or America 
as on the continent, where its advantages are fully appreciated. So 
very small a quantity of fuel is necessary to sustain the gentle aegree 




134 



MODERN COOKERY. 



[chap. VII. 



of sbullition which it requires, that this alone would recommend it to 
the careful housekeeper ; but if the process be skilfully conducted, meat 







m x 



softly stoved or stewed, in close- 
shutting - , or luted vessels, is in 
every respect equal, if not superior, 
to that which is roasted ; but it 
must be simmered only, and in the 
gentlest possible manner, or, in- 
stead of being tender, nutritious, 
and highly palatable, it will be dry, 
hard, and indigestible. The com- 
mon cooking stoves in this coun- 
try, as they have hitherto been 
Hot Plate, or Hearth. constructed^ have rendered the ex- 

act regulation of heat which stewing requires rather difficult; and the 
smoke and blaze of a large coal fire are very unfavourable to many 
other modes of cookery as well. The American as well as the French 
have generally the advantage of the embers and ashes of the Wood 
which is their ordinary fuel ; and they have always, in addition, a stove 
of this construction in which charcoal or braise (for explanation of this 
word, see remarks on preserving, Chapter XXI.) only is burned ; and 
upon which their stewpanscan, when there 
is occasion, be left uncovered, without the 
danger of their contents being spoiled, 
which there generally is with us. It is 
true that of late great improvements have 
been made in our own stoves ;* and the hot 
plates, or hearths with which the kitchens 
of good houses are always furnished, are admirably adapted to the sim- 
mering system; but when the cook has not the convenience of one, the 
stew pans must be placed on trevets high above the fire, and be con- 
stantly watched, and moved, as occasion may require, nearer to, or fur- 
ther from the flame. 

No copper vessels from which the inner tinning is in the slightest 
degree worn away should ever be used for this or for any other kind of 
cookery ; for not health only, but life itself, may be endangered by 
them.-f We have ourselves seen a dish of acid fruit which had been 
boiled without sugar, in a copper pan from which the tin lining was 
half worn away, coated with verdigris after it had become cold ; and 
from the careless habits of the person who had prepared it, the chances 
were greatly in favour of its being served to a family afterwards, if it 
had not been accidentally discovered. Salt acts upon the copper in the 
same manner as acids: vegetables, too, from the portion of the latter 
which they contain, have the same injurious effect; and the greatest 
danger results from allowing preparations containing any of these to 
become cold (or cool) in the stewpan, in contact with the exposed part 
of the copper in the inside. Thick, well-tinned iron saucepans will 

[* This remark will apply well to this country: an intelligent housekeeper can readily 
adapt the various improvements that are constantly making in stoves and ranges for 
cooking.] 

f Sugar, being an antidote to the poisonous effects of verdigris, should be plentifully 
taken, dissolved in water, so as to form quite a syrup, by persons who may unfortu 
lately have partaken of any dish into which this dangerous ingredient has entered. 




CHAP. VII.] 



BOILING, ROASTING, &C. 



135 



answer for all the ordinary purposes of common English cookery, even 
for stewing-, provided they have tightly-fitting- lids to prevent the escape 
of the steam ; but the copper ones are of more convenient form, and 
better adapted to a superior order of cookery. 

We shall have occasion to speak more particularly in another part 
of this work, of the German enamelled stewpans, so safe, and so well 
suited, from the extreme nicety of the composition, resembling- earthen- 
ware or china, with which they are lined, to all delicate compounds. 
The cook should be warned, however, that v.hey retain the heat so long- 
that the contents will boil for several minutes after they are removed 
from the fire, and this must be guarded against when they have reached 
the exact point at which further boiling- would have a bad effect; as 
would be the case with some preserves, and other sweets. 

BROILING. 

Broiling- is the best possible mode of cooking- and of preserving- the 
flavour of several kinds offish, amongst which we may specify mackerel 
and whitings;* it is also incomparably 
superior to frying- for steaks and cutlets, 
especially of beef and mutton; and it is 
far better adapted, also, to the preparation 
of food for invalids; but it should be care- 
fully done, for if the heat be too fierce, the 
outside of the meat will be scorched and 
hardened so as to render it uneatable ; and 
if, on the contrary, it be too g-entle, the 
gravy will be drawn out, and yet the flesh 
will remain so entirely without firmness, A Conjurer, 

as to be unpleasant eating-. A brisk fire perfectly free from smoke, a 
very clean gridiron, tender meat, a dish and plates as hot as they can 
be, and great despatch in sending- it to table when done, are all essen- 
tial to the serving of a good broil. The gridiron should be well heated, 
and rubbed with mutton suet before the meat is laid on, and it should 
be placed slopingly over the fire, that the fat may run off to the back 
of the grate, instead of falling- on the live coals and smoking- the meat: 
if this precaution should not prevent its making- an occasional blaze, 
lift the gridiron quickly beyond the reach of the smoke, and hold it 
away until the fire is clear again. Steaks and chops should be turned 
often, that the juices may be kept in, and that they may be equally 
done in every part. If, for this purpose, it should be necessary, lor 
want of steak-tongs, to use a fork, it should be passed through the outer 
skin, or fat of the steak, but never stuck into the lean, as by that means 
much of the gravy will escape. Most eaters prefer broiled beef or 
mutton, rather under-dressed; but pork chops should always be tho- 

* Salmon broiled in slices is a favourite dish with eaters who like the full rich fla- 
vour of the fish preserved, as it is much more luscious (but less delicate) dressed thus 
than when it is boiled. The slices should be cut from an inch to an inch and a half 
*hick and taken from the middle of a very fresh salmon ; they may be seasoned with 
cayenne only, and slowly broiled over a very clear fire; or, folded in buttered paper 
before they are-laid on the gridiron : or, lightly brushed with oil, and highly seasoned ; 
or, dipped into egg-yolk's and then into the finest crumbs mixed with salt, spice, and 
plenty of minced herbs, then sprinkled with clarified butter; but in whichever way 
they are prepared they will require to be gently broiled, with every precaution against 
their being smoked. From half to three quarters of an hour will cook them. Dried 
salmon cut into thin slices is merely warmed through over a slow lire. 




136 



MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. VII. 

roughly cooked. When a fowl or any other bird is cut asunder before 
it is broiled, the inside should first be laid to the fire : this should be 
done with kidneys also. Fish is less dry, and of better flavour, as well 
as less liable to be smoked, if it be wrapped in a thickly buttered sheet 
of writing paper before it is placed on the gridiron For the more deli- 
cate-skinned kinds, the bars should be rubbed with chalk instead of 
suet, when the paper is omitted. Cutlets, or meat in any other form, 
when egged and crumbed for broiling, should afterwards be dipped into 
clarified butter, or sprinkled with it plentifully, as the egg-yolk and 
bread will otherwise ibrm too dry a crust upon it. French cooks season 
their cutlets both with salt and pepper, and brush a little oil or butter 
over them to keep them moist; but unless this be done, no seasoning 
of salt should be given them until they are just ready to be dished: the 
French method is a very good one. 

Steaks or cutlets may be quickly cooked with a 
sheet or two of lighted paper only, in the apparatus 
shown in the preceding page, and called a conjurer. 
Lift off the cover and lay in the meat properly sea- 
soned, with a small slice of butter under it, and in- 
sert the lighted paper in the aperture shown in the 
plate ; in from eight to ten minutes the meat will 
be done, and found to be remarkably tender, and 
very palatable : it must be turned and moved occa- 
sionally during the process. This is an especially 
convenient mode of cooking for persons whose 
hours of dining are rendered uncertain by the na- 
ture of their avocations. For medical men en- 
gaged in extensive country practice it has been 
often proved so. The conjurer costs but a few 
shillings. Another form of this economical appa- 
ratus, with which a pint of water may be made to 
boil by means of only a sheet of paper wrapped round a cone, in the 
inside, is shown in the second plate. 

FRYING. 

This is an operation, which, though apparently 
I very simple, requires to be more carefully and 
skilfully conducted than it commonly is. Its suc- 
cess depends principally on allowing the fat to 
attain the exact degree of heat which shall give 
firmness, without too quick browning or scorching, 
before anything is laid into the pan ; for if this be neglected the article 
fried will be saturated with the fat, and remain pale and flaccid. When 
the requisite degree of colour is acquired before the cooking is complete, 
the pan should be placed high above the fire, that it may be continued 
slowly to the proper point. Steaks and cutlets should be seasoned with 
salt and pepper, and dredged on both sides lightly with flour before they 
are laid into the pan, in which they should be often moved and turned, 
that they may be equally done, and that they may not stick nor burn to 
it. From ten to fifteen minutes will fry them. They should be evenly 
sliced, about the same thickness as for broiling, and neatly trimmed and 
divided in the first instance. Lift them into a hot dish when done , 





Saute Pan. 



CHAP. VII. J 



BOILING, ROASTING, &C. 



137 



pojr the fat from the pan, and throw in a small slice of butter; stir to 
this a large teaspoonful of flour, brown it gently, and pour in by degrees 
a quarter pint of hot broth or water; shake the pan well round, add pep- 
per, salt, and a little good catsup, or any other store sauce which may 
be preferred to it, and pour the gravy over the steaks: this is the most 
common mode of saucing and serving them. 

Minute directions for fish, and others for omlets, and for different pre- 
parations of batter, are given in their proper places; but we must again 
observe, that a very small fryingpan (scarcely larger than a dirmer- 
plate) is necessary tor many of these; and, indeed, the large and thick 
one suited to meat and fish, and used commonly for them, is altogether 
unfit for nicer purposes. 

The saute-pan, shown in the preceding- page, is much used by French 
cooks instead of a frying-pan ; it is more particularly convenient for toss- 
ing- quickly over the fire small collops, or aught else which requires but 
little cooking. 

All fried dishes, which are not sauced, should be served extremely 
dry, upon a neatly-folded damask cloth : they are best drained, upon a 
sieve reversed, placed before the fire. 

A wire basket of this form is conve-- 
nient for frying parsley and other herbs. 
It must be placed in a pan well filled 
with fat, and lifted out quickly when 
the herbs are done : they may likewise 



be crisped in it over a clear fire, with- 
out being fried. 




Wire Basket for Frying. 



0^ 




BAKING. 

The oven may be used with advantage 
for many purposes of cookery, for which 
it is not commonly put into requisition. 
Calves' feet, covered with a proper pro- 
portion of water, may be reduced to a 
strong jelly if left in it for some hours ; 
the half-head, boned and rolled, will be 
found excellent eating, if laid, with the 
bones, into a deep pan and baked quite 
tender in sufficient broth, or water, to 
keep it covered in ever}' part until done; 
good soup also may be made in the same 
way, the usual ingredients being at once 
added to the meat, with the exception of the vegetables, which will not 
become tender if put into cold liquor, and should therefore be thrown in 
after it begins to simmer. Baking is likewise one of the best modes of 
dressing various kinds of fish : pike and red mullet amongst others. 
Salmon cut into thick slices, freed from the skin, well seasoned with 
spice, mixed with salt (and with minced herbs, at pleasure), then ar- 
ranged evenly in a dish, and covered thickly with crumbs of bread, 

* By means of this oven, which; from its construction, reflects the heat very strongly, 
hread, cakes, and pies, can he perfectly well baked before a large clear fire: but, as ws 
have stated in another part, of our work, the consumption of fuel necessary to the pre 
cess renders it far from economical. A spit has lately been introduced into some of the 
American ovens, converting them at once into portable and convenient roastern. 



American Oven.* 



138 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. VII. 

moistened with clarified butter, as directed in Chapter IL, for baked 
soles, and placed in the oven for about half an hour, will be found very 
rich and highly flavoured. Part of the middle of the salmon left entire, 
well cleaned, and thoroughly dried, then seasoned, and securely wrapped 
in two or three folds of thickly buttered paper, will also prove excellent 
eating, if gently baked. (This may likewise be roasted in a Dutch 
oven, either folded in the paper, or left without it, and basted with 
butter.) 

Hams, when freshly cured, and not over salted, if neatly trimmed, 
and closely wrapped in a coarse paste, are both more juicy, and of finer 
flavour baked than boiled. Savoury or pickled beef, too, put into a deep 
pan, with a little gravy, and plenty of butter, or chopped suet on the 
top, to prevent the outside from becoming dry ; then covered with paste, 
or with several folds of thick paper, and set into a moderate oven for 
four or five hours, or even longer, if it be of large weight, is an excel- 
lent dish. A goose, a leg of pork, and a sucking pig, if properly attended 
to while in the oven, are said to be nearly, or quite as good as if roasted; 
but baking is both an unpalatable and an unprofitable mode of cooking 
joints of meat in general, though its great convenience to many persons 
renders it a very common one. 

It is usual to raise meat from the dish in which it is sent to the oven 
by placing it, properly skewered, on a stand, so as to allow potatoes or 
a batter pudding to be baked under it. A few button onions, freed from 
the outer skin, or three or four large ones, cut in halves, are sometimes 
put beneath a shoulder of mutton. Two sheets of paper spread sepa- 
rately with a thick layer of butter, clarified marrow, or any other fat, 
and fastened securely over the outside of a joint, will prevent its being 
too much dried by the fierce heat of the oven. A few spoonsful of water 
or gravy should be poured into the dish with potatoes, and a little salt 
sprinkled over them. 

A celebrated French cook recommends braising- in the oven : that is 
to say, after the meat has been arranged in the usual manner, and just 
brought to boil over the fire, that the braising pan, closely stopped, 
should be put into a moderate oven, for the same length of time as 
would be required to stew the meat perfectly tender. 



Braising is but a more expensive mode 
of stewing meat. The following French 
recipe will explain the process. We 
would observe, however, that the layers 
of beef or veal, in which the joint to be 
braised is imbedded, can afterwards be con- 
verted into excellent soup, gravy, or glaze; 
and that there need, in consequence, be n<? 
English Braising-pan. waste, nor any unreasonable degree of ex- 

pense attending it ; but it is a troublesome process, and quite as good a 
result may be obtained by simmering the meat in very strong gravy. 
Should the flavour of the bacon be considered an advantage, slices of it 
can be laid over the article braised, and secured to it with a fillet of 
tape. 

" To braise the inside (or small fillet, as it is called in Fra nee) of a 




CHAI\ VII.] BOILING, ROASTING, &C. 139 

sirloin of beef: Raise the fillet clean from the joint ; and with a sharp 
knife strip off all the skin, leaving- the surface of the meat as smooth as 
possible ; have ready some strips of unsmoked bacon, half as thick as 
your little finger, roll them in a mixture of thyme finely minced, spices 
in powder, and a little pepper and salt. Lard the fillet quite through 
with these, and tie it round with tape in any shape you choose. Line 
the bottom of a stewpan (or braising-pan) with slices of bacon ; next 
^ut in a layer of beef, or veal, four onions, two bay-leaves, two carrots, 
and a bunch of sweet herbs, and place the fillet on them. Cover it 
vvith slices of bacon, put some trimmings of meat all round it, and pour 
on to it half a pint of good bouillon or gravy. Let it stew as gently as 
possible for two hours and a half; take it up, and keep it very hot; 
strain, and reduce the gravy by quick boiling until it is thick enough to 
glaze with; brush the meat over with it; put the rest in the dish with 
the fillet, after the tape has been removed from it, and send it directly 
to table." 

Equal parts of Madeira and gravy are sometimes used to moisten the 
meat. 

No attempt should be made to braise a joint in any vessel that is not 
very nearly of its own size. 

A round of buttered paper is generally put over the more delicate 
kinds of braised meat, to prevent their being browned by the fire, which 
in France is put round the lid of the braising-pan, in a groove made on 
purpose to contain it. The embers of a wood fire mixed with the hot 
ashes are best adapted to sustain the regular, but gentle degree of heat 
required for this mode of cooking. 

The pan shown at the head of this section, with a closely fitting cop- 
per tray, serving for the cover, is used 
commonly in England for braising; but a 
stewpan of modern form, or any other 
vessel which will admit of embers being 
placed upon the lid, will answer for the 
purpose as well. 

Common cooks sometimes stew meat in 
a mixture of butter and water, and call it Copper Stewpan. 

braising. 

LARDING. 




Larding Pins. 

Cut into slices, of the same length and thickness, some bacon of the 
finest quality; trim away the outsides, place the slices evenly upon 
each other, and with a sharp knife divide them obliquely into small 
strips of equal size. For pheasants, partridges, hares, fowls, and fri- 
candeaux, the bacon should be about the eighth of ar inch square, and 
two inches in length ; kit for meat which is to be larded quite through, 
instead of on the outside merely, the bits of bacon (properly called lar- 
doons) must be at least the third of an inch square. 

In general, the breasts only of birds are larded, the backs and thighs 



140 MODERN COOKERY. CHAP. VII, 

of rabbits, and the whole of the upper surface of a fricandeau : these 
should be thickly covered with small lardoons, placed at regular inter* 
vals, and in lines which intersect each other, so as to form rather mi« 
nute diamonds. 

The following directions for larding a partridge will serve equally 
for poultry, or for other kinds of game: — 

Secure one end of the bacon in a slight larding-pin, and on the point 
of this take up sufficient of the flesh of the bird to hold the lardoon 
firmly; draw the pin through it, and part of the bacon, of which the 
two ends should be left of equal length. Proceed thus, until the breast 
of the pheasant is entirely garnished with lardoons, when it ought to 
resemble in appearance a cake thickly stuck with slips of almonds. 

The larger strips of bacon, after being rolled in a high seasoning of 
minced herbs and spices, are used to lard the inside of meat, and they 
should be proportioned to its thickness, as they must be passed .quite 
through it. For example : a four inch slice from a rump of beef will 
require lardoons of very nearly that length, which must be drawn 
through with a large larding-pin, and left in it, with the ends just out 
of sight on either side. 

In France, truffles, anchovies, slices of tongue, and of fat, all trimmed 
into proper shape, are occasionally used for larding. The bacon em- 
ployed there for the purpose is cured without any saltpetre (as this 
would redden the white meats), and it is never smoked : the receipt for 
it will be found in Chapter XI. 

A turkey is sometimes larded with alternate lardoons of fat bacon and 
of bullock's tongue, which has been pickled but not dried : we appre- 
hend that the lean of a half-boiled ham, of good colour, could answer 
the purpose quite as well, or better. 

Larding the surface of meat, poultry, or game, gives it a good appear- 
ance, but it is a more positive improvement to meat of a dry nature to 
interlard the inside with large lardoons of well-seasoned, delicate, 
striped bacon. 

BONING. 

Very minute directions being given in other parts of our volume for 
this, we confine ourselves here to the following rules : — in disengaging 
the flesh from it, work the knife always close to the bone, and take 
every care not to pierce the outer skin. 

TO BLANCH MEAT OR VEGETABLES. 

This is merely to throw either into a pan of boiling water for a few 
minutes, which gives firmness to the first, and is necessary for some 
modes of preparing vegetables. 

The breast only of a bird is sometimes held in the water while it 
boils, to render it firm for larding. To preserve the whiteness of meat, 
and the bright green of vegetables, they are lifted from the water after 
they have boiled a few minutes, and are thrown immediately into spring 
water, and left till cold. 

5 to 10 minutes. 



This process we have explained at the article Glaze, Chapter III. 
The surface of the meat should be covered evenly, with two or three 



CHAP. VII.'J 



BOILING, ROASTING, &C. 



141 



separate layers of the glaze, which, if 
properly made, soon becomes firm. A 
ham should be well dried in the oven be- 
fore it is laid on. Cutlets of all kinds may 
be glazed before they are sent to table, 
with very good effect. The figure above 
represents a glaze-pot and brush, used 
for heating and applying the preparation : 
a jar placed in a pan of boiling water 
may be substituted for the first, when it is 
not at hand. 

TOASTING. 





A very cheap apparatus, by which chops can be dressed before v 
clear fire, is shown by the first of these figures ; and the second is pecu 
liarly convenient when bread or muffins are required to be toasted ex 
peditiously and in large quantities, without much time and attentior 
being bestowed upon them. 

To brown the surface of a dish without baking or placing it at 
the fire. 

This is done with a salamander, as it is called, formed like the en- 
graving below ; it is heated in the fire, and held over the dish suffi- 
ciently near to give it colour. It is very much used in a superior order 
of cookery. A kitchen shovel is sometimes substituted for it on an 
emergency. 



142 



MODERN COOKERY. 



[CHAP. VIII. 



CHAPTER VIII. 
BEEF. 




No. 

1. Sirloin. 

2. Rump. 

3. Edge-bone. 

4. Buttock, or Round. 

5. Mouse Buttock. 

6. Veiny Piece. 

7. Thick Flank. 

8. Thin Flank. 

9. Leg. 



No. 

10. Fore Rib. (Five Ribs.) 

11. Middle Rib. (Four Ribs.) 

12. Chuck Rib. (Three Ribs.) 

13. Shoulder, or Leg of Mutton Piece. 

14. Brisket. 

15. Clod. 

16. Neck. 

17. Shin. 

18. Cheek. 



TO CHOOSE BEEF. 

If young 1 and freshly killed, the lean of ox-beef will be smoothly 
grained, and of a fine, healthy, carnation-red, the fat rather white than 
yellow, and the suet white and firm. Heifer-beef is more closely 
grained, and rather less bright of colour, the bones are considerably 
smaller, and the fat of a purer white. 

Of bull-beef we only speak to warn our readers, that it is of all meat 
the coarsest and the most rank in flavour. It may be known by its 
dark hue, its close tough fibre, and the scanty proportion, bad appear- 
ance, and strong odour of its fat. 

In choice and well-fed beef, the lean will be found intergrained with 
fat : very lean meat is always of an inferior quality. 

The ribs, the sirloin, and the rump, are the proper joints for roasting. 
The round, or buttock, the edge-bone, the second round, or mouse-but- 
tock, the shin, the brisket, the shoulder, or leg of mutton piece, and the 
clod may be boiled or stewed. The neck is generally used for soup or 
gravy ; and the thin flank for collaring. The best steaks are cut from 
the middle of the rump; the next best from the veiny piece, or from 
the chuck-rib. The inside of the sirloin, commonly used for the pur- 
pose in France, makes by far the most delicate steaks; but though ex- 
ceedingly tender, they are considered by English epicures to be want- 
ing in flavour. 

The finest part of the sirloin is the chump-end, which contains the 
larger portion of the fillet: of the ribs, the middle ones are those gene- 
rally preferred by experienced housekeepers. 



CHAP VIII.] BEEF. 143 

TO ROAST SIRLOIN, OR RIBS OF BEEF. 

Let the joint hang as long as it can possibly be kept perfectly sweet. 
When it is first brought in, remove the pipe of marrow which runs 
along the backbone, and cut out the kernels from the fat. Be very 
careful in summer to guard it from flies; examine it frequently in warm 
or damp weather ; and scrape off with a knife, or wipe away with a 
dry cloth, any moisture which may appear on the surface : when this 
has been done, dust some powdered ginger or pepper over it. Unless 
the joint should be very large, its appearance will be improved by 
taking off the ends of the bones, which may then be laid in salt for a 
few days, and afterwards boiled. Spit the beef firmly; keep it far 
back from the fire until it is well heated through ; baste it constantly ; 
and proceed as directed in the general rules for roasting (see page 131). 
Persons who object to meat being frothed for table, have it dredged 
with flour when it is first placed at the fire, and sprinkled with fine salt 
when it is nearly done. It is not necessary to paper the fat of beef, as 
many cooks direct, if proper attention be given to it while roasting. 

As a general rule, it may be observed, that when the steam from the 
meat draws strongly towards the fire, it is nearly or quite ready to serve. 
The time required to roast it will depend on the state of the weather,* 
the size and strength of the fire, the thickness of the joint, the use or 
non-use of a meat-screen or reflector, the general temperature of the 
kitchen and other contingencies. A quarter of an hour for each pound 
of meat is commonly allowed for solid, heavy joints, and, if the direc- 
tions we have given be attended to, this will not be found too much even 
for persons who prefer beef somewhat rare : it must be left longer at the 
fire if wished very thoroughly roasted, and quite double the usual time 
when the plan we have noticed at page 132, is adopted. When likely 
to be sent to table hashed, minced, or dressed a second time in any way, 
the juices of the meat should be dried up as little as possible when it is 
first cooked. 

ROAST RUMP OF BEEF. 

As this joint is generally too large to serve whole, as much of it as 
will form a handsome dish should be cut from the chump end to roast. 
It must be managed as the sirloin, to which it is commonly preferred by 
connoisseurs. When boned and rolled into the form of a fillet of veal v 
as it sometimes is, nearly or quite an additional hour should be allowed 
to dress it. 

to Roast part of a round of beef„ 

The natural division of the meat will show where the silver side of 
the round is to be separated from the upper or tongue side, which is the 
proper part for roasting, and which will be found equally good and pro- 
fitable for the purpose, if allowed to hang as Jong as it can be kept sweef 
before it is dressed. Care should be taken in dividing the meat, not to 
pierce the inner skin. The silver side, with the udder, if there should 
be one to the joint, may be pickled, spiced, or simply salted, and will be 
excellent either way. I The outside fat should be drawn tightly round 

* The meat will be much sooner done in hot weather than in cold. If frozen, it must 
be thawed very gradually before it is put to the fire, or no length of time will roast it ; 
this will he effected better by laying it into cold water for some hours before it ia 
wanted, than by any other means. 



144 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. VIII. 

the remainder of the beef, which must be firmly skewered, or bound 
with tape, to keep it in form. It will require long roasting at a strong, 
steady fire, and should be kept constantly basted. 

Beef, 14 lbs. : 4^ to 5 hours. 

Obs. — We think that larding the beef quite through with large lar- 
doons of firm fat, of udder, or of bacon, would be an improvement ; and 
we ought also to observe, that unless it be young and of fine quality, it 
will not answer well for roasting. 

TO ROAST A FILLET OF BEEF. 

Raise the fillet from the inside of the sirloin, or from part of it, with 
a sharp knife; leave the fat on, trim off the skin, lard it through, or all 
over, or roast it, quite plain ; baste it with butter, and send it very hot 
to table, with tomata sauce, or sauce piquante, or eschalot sauce, in a 
tureen. It is sometimes served with brown gravy or currant jelly : it 
should then be garnished with forcemeat-balls, made as for hare. If not 
very large, an hour and a quarter will roast it well with a brisk fire. 

Obs. — The remainder of the joint may be boned, rolled, and roasted, 
or braised ; or made into meat cakes ; or served as a miniature round of 
beef. 

1 hour, 15 minutes. 

ROAST BEEF STEAK, 

If extremely tender, a large slice from the middle of the rump will 
make an excellent small dish of roast meat, when a joint is not easily 
to be procured. Let it be smoothly cut, from an inch to an inch and a 
half thick, flattened on a table, and the inside sprinkled with a little 
fine salt and cayenne, or common pepper. Make a roll of forcemeat, as 
No. 1 (page 122), adding, at pleasure, a flavouring of minced onion or 
eschalot, and increasing the quantity of spices ; place this on one end 
of the steak, and roll it up tightly in it; skewer and bind the meat so 
that the forcemeat cannot escape, fasten a buttered paper over it, and 
roast it an hour and a half, or more, according to its size. Twenty 
minutes before it is served, take ofTthe paper, and flour the meat, which 
should be kept well basted with butter all the time it is roasting. Send 
brown gravy to table with it, and pour a little over the beef. 

1 \ hour, or more. 

TO BROIL BEEF STEAKS. 

The steaks should be from half to three-quarters of an inch thick, 
equally sliced, and freshly cut from the middle of a well-kept, finely 
grained, and tender rump of beef. They should be neatly trimmed, and 
once or twice divided, if very large. The fire, as we have already said 
in the general directions for broiling (page 135), must be strong and 
clear. The bars of the gridiron should be thin, and not very close toge- 
ther. When they are thoroughly heated, without being sufficiently 
burning to scorch the meat, wipe and rub them with fresh mutton suet; 
next pepper the steaks slightly, but never season them with salt before 
they are dressed ; lay them on the gridiron, and when done on one side, 
turn them on the other, being careful to catch, in the dish in which they 
are to be sent to table, any gravy which may threaten to drain from 
hem when they are moved. Let them be served the instant they are 
.aken from the fire ; and ha,ve ready at the moment, dish, cover, and 



CHAP. VIII.] BEEF. 115 

plates, as hot as they can be. From eight to ten minutes will be suffi- 
cient to broil steaks for the generality of eaters, and more than enough 
for those who like them but partially done. 

Genuine amateurs seldom take prepared sauce or gravy with their 
steaks, as they consider the natural juices of the meat sufficient. When 
any accompaniment to them is desired, a small quantity of choice mush- 
room catsup may be warmed in the dish that is heated to receive them ; 
and which, when the not very refined flavour of a raw eschalot is liked, 
as it is by some eaters, may previously be rubbed with one, of which 
the large end has been cut off. A thin slice or two of fresh butter is 
sometimes laid under the steaks, where it soon melts and mingles with 
the gravy which flows from them. The appropriate tureen sauces for 
broiled beef steaks are onion, tomata, oyster, eschalot, hot horseradish, 
and brown cucumber, or mushroom sauce. 

Obs. 1. — We have departed a little in this receipt from our previous 
instructions for broiling, by recommending that the steaks should be 
turned but once, instead of " often," as all great authorities on the sub- 
ject direct. By trying each method, our readers will be able to decide 
for themselves upon the preferable one : we can only say, that we have 
never eaten steaks so excellent as those which have been dressed exactly 
in accordance with the receipt we have just given, and w r e have taken 
infinite pains to ascertain the really best mode of preparing this very 
favourite English dish, which so constantly makes its appearance both 
carelessly cooked and ill served, especially at private tables. 

Obs. 2. — It is a good plan to throw a few bits of charcoal on the fire 
some minutes before the steaks are laid down, as they give forth e 
strong heat without any smoke. 

The upright gridirons, by which meat is rather toasted than broiled, 
though used in many kitchens and generally pronounced exceedingly 
convenient, where they have been tried, do not appear to us so well 
adapted for dressing steaks as those of less modern fashion, which are 
placed over, instead of before the fire. 

BEEF STEAKS A LA FRANCAISE. 

The inside of the sirloin freed from skin, and cut evenly into round 
quarter-inch slices, should properly be used for these ; but when it can- 
not be obtained, part of the rump must be substituted for it. Season 
the steaks with fine salt and pepper, brush them with a little clarified 
butter, and boil them over a clear, brisk fire. Mix a teaspoonful of 
parsley, minced extremely fine, with a large slice of fresh butter, a 
little cayenne, and a small quantity of salt. When the steaks are done, 
put the mixture into the dish intended for them, and lay them upon it ; 
garnish them plentifully with fried potatoes. It is an improvement to 
squeeze the juice of half a lemon on the butter, before the meat is 
heaped over it. The potatoes should be sliced rather thin, coloured of 
a fine brown, and placed evenly round the meat. 

beef steaks a la francaise (entree) ', (another receipt. 

Cut the beef into small thin steaks as above, season them with fine 
salt and pepper, dredge them lightly with flour, and fry them in butter 
over a brisk fire ; arrange them in a chain round a very hot dish, and 
pour into the centre a little olive sauce. 
9 



146 MODERN COOKERY. CHAP. VIII. 

STEWED BEEF STEAK (ENTREE). 

This may be cut from one to two inches thick, and the time of stew- 
mg it must be proportioned to its size. Dissolve a slice of butter in a 
large saucepan or stewpan, and brown the steak on both sides, moving- 
it often that it may not burn ; then shake in a little flour, and when it 
is coloured pour in by degrees rather more than sufficient broth or water 
to cover the meat. When it boils, season it with salt, take off the scum, 
slice in one onion, a carrot or two, and half a turnip; add a small bunch 
of sweet herbs, and stew the steak very softly from two hours and a 
half to three hours. A quarter of an hour before it is served, stir well 
into the gravy three teaspoonsful of rice flour smoothly mixed with a 
little cayenne, half a wineglassful of mushroom catsup, and a slight 
seasoning of spice. A teaspoonful of currie powder, in addition, will 
improve both the flavour and the appearance of the sauce. The onion 
is sometimes browned with the meat; and the quantity is considerably 
increased. Eschalots may be used instead, where their strong flavour 
is approved. A few button-mushrooms, stewed from twenty to thirty 
minutes with the meat, will render the catsup unnecessary. Wine, or 
any favourite store sauce, can be added at will. 

2^ to 3 hours. 

FRIED BEEF STEAK. 

We have little to add here to the directions of page 136, which are 
sufficient to enable the cook to send a dish of fried steaks to table pro- 
perly dressed. Currie sauce, highly onioned, is frequently served 
with them. 

beef steak stewed in its own gravy ; ( Good and wholesome.) 
Trim all the fat and skin from a rump steak of nearly an inch thick, 
and divide it once or twice ; just dip it into cold water, let it drain for 
an instant, sprinkle it on both sides with pepper, and then flour it rather 
thickly ; lay it quite flat into a well-tinned iron saucepan or stewpan, 
which has been rinsed with cold water, of which a tablespoonful should 
be left in it. Place it over (not upon) a very gentle fire, and keep it 
just simmering from an hour and a half to an hour and three quarters, 
when, if the meat be good, it will have become perfectly tender. Add 
salt to it when it first begins to boil, and turn it when rather more than 
half done. A couple of spoonsful of gravy, half as much catsup, and a 
slight seasoning of spice, would, to many tastes, improve this dish, of 
which, however, the great recommendation is its wholesome simplicity, 
which renders it suitable to the most delicate stomach. A thick mut- 
ton cutlet from the middle of the leg is excellent dressed thus. 

1£ to If hour. 

beef or mutton cake ; ( Very good.) 
Chop two pounds of lean and very tender beef or mutton, with three 
quarters of a pound of beef suet; mix them well, and season them with 
a dessertspoonful of salt, nearly as much pounded cloves, a teaspoonful 
of pounded mace, and half a teaspoonful of cayenne. Line a round 
baking dish with thin slices of fat bacon, press the meat closely into it, 
smooth the top, and cover it with bacon, set a plate on it with a weight, 
and bake it two hours and a quarter. Take off the bacon, and serve 
the meat hot, with a little rich brown gravy, or set it by until cold, 



CHAP. VIII.] BEEF. 147 

when it will be equally good. The fat of the meat which is used for 
this dish can be chopped up with it instead of suet, where it is liked as 
well ; and onion, or eschalot, shred fine, minced savoury herbs, grated 
lemon-peel, rasped bacon, or mushrooms cut small, may in turn be 
added to vary it in flavour. 

Lean beef or mutton, 2 lbs ; suet, £ lb. ; salt and cloves in powder, 
each a dessertspoonful ; mace, 1 teaspoonful ; half as much cayenne : 
baked 2} hours. 

Obs. — A larger portion of suet, or of fat will render these cakes 
lighter, but will not otherwise improve them : they may be made of 
veal or of venison, but one-third of mutton suet or of fat bacon should be 
mixed with this last. 

GERMAN STEW. 

Cut into about three-inch squares, two pounds and a half of th** leaner 
part of the veiny piece of beef, or of any joint which is likely to uo ten- 
der, and set it on to stew, with a pint and three quarters of cold broth, 
or water, and one large onion sliced. When these begin to boil, add a 
teaspoonful of salt, and a third as much of pepper, and let them simmer 
gently for an hour and a half. Have ready some young white cab- 
bages, parboiled ; press the water well from them, lay them in with the 
beef, and let the whole stew for another hour. More onions, and a sea- 
soning of mixed spices, or a few bits of lean bacon, or of ham, can be 
added to this stew when a higher flavour is desired ; but it is very good 
without. 

Beef, 2 1 lbs. ; water, or broth, If pint ; onion, 1 ; salt, 1 teaspoonful ; 
third as much pepper: 1^ hour. Parboiled cabbages, 3 or 4: 1 hour. 

WELSH STEW. 

Take the same proportions of beef, and of broth or water, as for the 
German stew. When they have simmered gently for an hour, add the 
white part of from twenty to thirty leeks, or two dozens of button 
onions, and five or six young mild turnips, cut in slices, a small lump 
of white sugar, nearly half a teaspoonful of white pepper, and more 
than twice as much salt. Stew the whole softly from an hour and a 
quarter to an hour and a half, after the vegetables are added. 

Beef and water as above : 1 hour. Leeks, 20 to 30 ; or small onions, 
24; young turnips, 6; small lump of sugar; white pepper, nearly ^ 
teaspoonful ; salt, twice as much: 1£ to 1^ hour. 

A COOD ENGLISH STEW. 

On three pounds offender rump of beef, freed from skin and fat, and 
cut down into two-inch squares, pour rather more than a quart of cold 
broth or gravy. When it boils add salt if required, and a little cayenne, 
and keep it just simmering for a couple of hours; then put to it the 
grated rind of a large lemon, or of two small ones, and half an hour 
after stir to it a tablespoonful of rice-flour, smoothly mixed with a wine- 
glassful of mushroom catsup, a dessertspoonful of lemon-juice, and a 
teaspoonful of soy : in fifteen minutes it will be ready to serve. A 
glass and a half of port, or of white wine, will greatly improve this 
Btuw, which may likewise be flavoured with the store-sauce of page 
117, or with another, which we find excellent for the purpose, made 
with half a pint of port wine, the same of mushroom-catsup, a quarter- 



148 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. VIII. 

pint of walnut-pickle, a tablespoonful of the best soy, and a dessert- 
spoonful of cayenne-vinegar, all well shaken together and poured into 
a bottle containing the thin rind of a lemon and two fine mellow ancho- 
vies, of moderate size. A few delicately fried forcemeat-balls may be 
slipped into it after it is dished. 

Obs. — The limits of our work will not permit us to devote a further 
space to this class of dishes, but an intelligent cook will find it easy to 
vary them in numberless ways. Mushrooms, celery, carrots, sweet 
herbs, parboiled new potatoes, green peas, rice, and currie-powder may 
be advantageously used for that purpose. Oxtails, just blanched and 
cut into joints, will be found excellent substitutes for the beef: mutton 
and veal also may be dressed in the same way. The meat and vege- 
tables can be browned before broth or water is poured to them ; but, 
though perhaps more savoury, the stew will then be much less delicate. 
Each .^nd of vegetable should be allowed something more than suffi- 
cient time to render it perfectly tender, but not so much as would 
reduce it to pulp. 

TO STEW SHIN OF BEEF. 

Wash, and set it on to stew in sufficient cold water to keep it just 
covered until it is done. When it boils, take off the scum, and put an 
ounce and a quarter of salt to the gallon of water. It is usual to add a 
few cloves and some black pepper, slightly bruised and tied up loosely 
in a fold of muslin, two or more onions, a root of celery, a bunch of 
savoury herbs, four or five carrots, and as many turnips, either whole or 
sliced : if to be served with the meat, the last two will require a little 
more than the ordinary time of boiling, but otherwise they may be sim- 
mered with the meat from the beginning. Give the beef from four to 
five hours' gentle stewing; and serve it with part of its own liquor 
thickened and flavoured, or quite plain. An excellent dish for a family 
may be made by stewing the thick fleshy part of the shin or leg in 
stock made of the knuckle, with a few bits of lean ham, or a slice ot 
hung beef from which the smoked edges have been carefully pared 
away, and some spice, salt, and vegetables: by frying these last before 
they are thrown into the soup- pot the savour of the stew will be greatly 
heightened ; and a tureen of good soup may be made of its remains, 
after it has been served at table. 

Ox-cheek, after having been soaked for four or five hours, and washed 
with great nicety, may be dressed like the shin; but as it has little fla- 
vour, the gravy should be strained, and quite cleared from fat, then put 
into a clean saucepan, and thickened as soon as it boils, with the fol- 
lowing mixture : — three dessertspoonsful of rice-flour, nearly a wine- 
glassful of catsup, a teaspoonful of currie-powder, or a little powdered 
ginger and cayenne. When these have stewed for ten minutes, dish 
the head, pour the sauce over, and serve it. 

Shin of beef, 4 to 5 hours. Ox-cheek, 2 to 3 hours. 

French beef a la mode ; (a common receipt.) 
Take seven or eight pounds of a rump of beef (or of any other tender 
ioint), free from bone, and skewer it firmly into a good shape. Put 
two ounces of butter into a thick saucepan or stewpan, and when it 
boils stir to it a tablespoonful of flour ; keep these well shaken over a 
gentle fire until they are of a fine amber colour; then lay in the beef. 



CHAP. VIII.] BEEF. 149 

and brown it on both sides, taking care that it shall not stick to the 
pan. Pour to it by slow degrees, letting each portion boil before the 
next is added, or the butter will float upon the surface and be difficult 
to clear off afterwards, three quarters of a pint of hot water, or gravy; 
add a bunch of savoury herbs, one large or two small carrots cut in 
thick slices, two or three moderate-sized onions, two bay-leaves, and 
sufficient pepper and salt to season the gravy. Let the meat simmer 
gently from four to five hours, and turn it when it is half done. When 
ready to serve, lift the beef into a hot dish, lay the vegetables round, 
and pour the gravy over it, after having taken out the herbs and 
skimmed away the fat. In France, half or the whole of a calf's foot is 
stewed with the beef, which is there generally larded through with 
thick strips of fat bacon. (For larding, see page 139.) Veal dressed 
in this way is even better than beef. The stewpan used for either 
should be as nearly of the size of the meat as possible. 
Beef, 7 to 8 lbs. : 4 to 5 hours. 

STEWED SIRLOIN OF BEEF. 

As a matter of convenience we have occasionally had this joint 
stewed instead of roasted, and have found it excellent. Cut out the 
inside or fillet as entire as possible, and reserve it for a separate dish; 
then remove the bones with care, or let the butcher do this for you; 
spread the meat flat on a table and cover the inside with thin slices of 
striped bacon, after having first strewed over it a mixed seasoning of a 
small teaspoonful of salt, half as much mace or nutmeg, and a moderate 
quantity of pepper or cayenne. Roll and bind the meat firmly, lay it 
into a stewpan or thick iron saucepan nearly of its size, and add the 
bones and as much good beef broth as will nearly cover the joint. 
Should this not be at hand, put a few slices of lean ham or bacon under 
the beef, and lay round it three pounds of nu^k or knuckle of veal, or of 
stewing beef, divided into several parts; then pour to it cold water in- 
stead of broth. In either case, so soon as it has boiled a few minutes 
and been well cleaned from scum, throw in a large faggot of savoury 
herbs, three or four carrots, as many leeks, or a large onion, stuck with 
a dozen cloves ; and, an hour later, two blades of mace, and half a 
teaspoonful of peppercorns. Stew the beef very gently indeed from 
four to five hours, and longer, should the joint be large: serve it with a 
good Espagnole, sauce piquante, or brown caper sauce. Add what salt 
may be needed before the vegetables are thrown in ; and, after the meat 
is lifted out, boil down to soup or gravy the liquor in which it has been 
stewed. To many tastes it would be an improvement to flour and 
brown the outside of the beef in butter before the broth or water is 
poured to it : it may also be stewed (but somewhat longer) half-covered 
with rich gravy, and turned when partially done. Minced eschalots 
may be strewed over the inside before it is rolled, when their strong 
savour is relished, or veal forcemeat may supply their place. 

TO STEW A RUMP OF BEEF. 

This joint is more easily carved, and is of better appearance when 
the bones are removed before it is dressed. Roll and bind it firmly 
cover it with strong cold b?ef broth or gravy, and stew it very gently 
indeed from six hours to between seven and eight ; add to it, after the 



150 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. VIII. 

scum has been well cleared off, one large or two moderate-sized onions 
stucK with thirty cloves, a head of celery, two carrots, two turnips, and 
a large faggot of savoury herbs. When the beef is perfectly tender 
quite through, which may be known by probing it with a sharp thin 
skewer, remove the fillets of tape, dish it neatly, and serve it with a 
rich Espagnole, and a garnish of forced tomatas, or with a highly fla- 
voured brown English gravy, and stewed carrots in the dish: for these 
last the mild preparation of garlic or eschalots, of page 110, may be 
substituted with good effect; they should be well drained, laid round the 
meat, and a little brown gravy poured over the whole. 

This is the most simple and economical manner of stewing the beef; 
but. should a richer one be desired, half roast the joint, and stew it after- 
wards in strong gravy, to which a pint of mushrooms, and a pint of 
sherry or Madeira, should be added an hour before it is ready for table. 
Keep it hot while a portion of the gravy is thickened with a well-made 
brown roux (see Chapter IV., page 96), and seasoned with salt, cay- 
enne, and any other spice it may require. Garnish it with large balls 
of forcemeat, highly seasoned with minced eschalots, rolled in egg and 
bread-crumbs, and fried a fine golden brown. 

Plainly stewed from 6 to 7 or 8 hours. Or : half roasted, then stewed 
from 4 to 5 hours. 

Obs. — Grated horse-radish, mixed with some well-thickened brown 
gravy, a teaspoonful of mustard, and a little lemon-juice or vinegar, is a 
good sauce for stewed beef. 

BEEF PALATES. (ENTREE.) 

First rub them well with salt, to take off the slime ; then wash them 
thoroughly in several waters, and leave them to soak for half an hour 
before they are dressed. Set them over the fire in cold water, and boil 
them gently until the skin will peel off, and the palates are tolerably 
tender. It is difficult to state the exact time required for this, as some 
will be done enough in two hours and a half, and others in not less than 
from four to five hours. When thus prepared, the palates may be cut 
into various forms, and simmered until fit to serve, in rich brown gravy, 
highly flavoured with ham, cayenne, wine, and lemon-peel; or they 
will make an excellent currie. As they are very insipid of themselves, 
they require a sauce of some piquancy, in which, after they have been 
peeled and trimmed, they should be stewed from twenty to thirty min- 
utes, or until they are perfectly tender. The black parts of them must 
be cut away, when the skin is taken off. An onion, stuck with a few 
cloves, a carrot sliced, a teaspoonful of whole white pepper, a slice of 
butter, and a teaspoonful of salt, may be boiled with the palates in the 
first instance; and they will be found very good, if sent to table in the 
curried gravy of Chapter XIV., or in the Soubise of Chapter IV., made 
thinner than the receipts direct. 

Boiled from 2^ to 4 or 5 hours. Stewed from 20 to 30 minutes. 

Obs. — A French cook of some celebrity, orders the palates to be laid 
on the gridiron until the skin will peel or scrape oft": the plan seems a 
good one, but we have not tried it. 

beef palates ; (Neapolitan mode.) 
Boil the palates until the skin can be easily removed, then stew them 



CHAP. VIII.] BEEF. 151 

very tender in good veal broth, lay them on a drainer and let them cool ; 
cut them across obliquely into strips of about a quarter inch in width, 
and finish them by either of the receipts for dressing maccaroni, which 
will be found in Chapters XIV. and XVIII. 

STEWED OX-TAILS, 

They should be sent from the butcher read}^ jointed. Soak and wash 
them well, cut them into joints, or into lengths of two or three joints, 
and cover them with cold broth or water. As soon as they boil, remove 
the scum, and add a half-teaspoonful of salt, or as much more as may be 
needed, and a little common pepper, or cayenne, an onion stuck with 
half a dozen cloves, two or three small carrots, and a bunch or two of 
parsley. When these have simmered for two hours and a quarter, try 
the meat with a fork, and should it not be perfectly tender, let it remain 
over the fire until it is so. Ox-tails sometimes require nearly or quite 
three hours' stewing: they may be served with the vegetables, or with 
the gravy strained from them, and thickened like the English stew, of 
page 147. 

Ox-tails, 2 ; water or broth to cover them ; salt, \ teaspoonful, or more ; 
little pepper or cayenne ; onion, 1 ; cloves, (5; carrots, 2 or 3 ; parsley, 2 
or 3 branches : 2\- to 3 hours. 

TO SALT AND PICKLE BEEF, IN VARIOUS WAYS. 

Let the meat hang a couple of days in mild weather, and four or five 
in winter, before it is salted or pickled. During the heat of summer it 
is better to immerse it entirely in brine, that it may be secured alike 
from the flies, and from the danger of becoming putrid. Trim it, and 
take out the kernels from the fat; then rub a little fine dry salt over it, 
and leave it until the following day; drain it well from the blood, which 
will be found to have flowed from it, and it will be ready for any of the 
.following modes of curing, which are all excellent of their kind, and 
have been well proved. 

In very cold weather, the salt may be applied quite warm to the 
meat: it should always be perfectly dry, and reduced to powder. 

Saltpetre hardens and renders meat indigestible ; sugar, on the con- 
trary, mellows and improves it much; and it is more tender when cured 
with bay salt than when common salt is used for it. 

TO SALT AND BOIL A ROUND OF BEEF. 

Mix an ounce of saltpetre, finely powdered, with half a pound of very 
coarse sugar, and rub the beef thoroughly with them ; in two days add 
three-quarters of a pound of common salt, well dried and beaten ; turn 
and rub the meat well in every part with the pickle tor three weeks, 
when it will be fit to dress. Just wash off the salt, and skewer the beef 
as round and as even as possible; bind it tightly with broad tape, cover 
it with cold water, and let it simmer gently for at least five hours. 
Carrots, mashed turnips, or cabbages, are usually served with boiled 
beef; and horseradish stewed for ten minutes in equal parts of vinegar 
and water, then pressed well from them, and mixed with some rich 
melted butter, is a good sauce for it. 

Beef, 20 lbs. ; coarse sugar, § lb. ; saltpetre, 1 oz. : 2 days. Salt, ^ 
lb. : 21 days. Boil 5 hours, or more. 



152 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. VIII. 

Obs. — Beef cured by this receipt, if properly boiled, is tender, of 
good colour and flavour, and not over salt. The rump, edge-bone, and 
brisket may be salted, or pickled in the same way as the round. 

HAMBURGH PICKLE FOR BEEF, HAMS, AND TONGUE. 

Boil together, for twenty minutes, two gallons of water, three pounds 
of bay salt, two pounds of coarse sugar, two ounces of saltpetre, and 
two of black pepper, bruised, and tied in a fold of muslin ; clear off the 
scum thoroughly, as it rises, pour the pickle into a deep earthen-pan, 
and when it is quite cold lay in the meat, of which every part must be 
perfectly covered with it. A moderate-sized round of beef will be 
ready for table in a fortnight ; it should be turned occasionally in the 
brine. Five pounds of common salt may be substituted for the quantity 
of bay salt given above ; but the meat will not be so finely flavoured. 

Water, 2 gallons ; bay salt, 3 lbs. ; saltpetre, 2 ozs. ; black pepper, 2 
ozs. ; sugar, 2 lbs. : 20 minutes. 

ANOTHER PICKLE FOR TONGUES, BEEF, AND HAMS. 

To three gallons of spring water add six pounds of common salt, two 
pounds of bay salt, two pounds of common loaf sugar, and two ounces 
of saltpetre. Boil these over a gentle fire, and be careful to take off all 
the scum as it rises: when quite cold it will be fit for use. Rub the 
meat to be cured with fine salt, and let it drain for a day or two, in 
order to free it from the blood ; then immerse it in the brine, taking 
care that every part of it shall be covered. Young pork should not 
remain more than from three to five days in the pickle ; but hams for 
drying may be left in it for a fortnight at least: tongues will be ready 
in rather less time. Beef may remain from one week to two, accord- 
ing to its size, and the degree of saltness desired for it. A little expe- 
rience will soon teach the exact time required for the different kinds of 
meat. When the pickle has been in use for about three months, boil it 
up again gently, and take the scum carefully off! Add to it three 
pounds of common salt, four ounces of sugar, and one of saltpetre: it 
will remain good for a year or more. 

Water, 3 gallons ; common salt, 6 lbs. ; bay salt, 2 lbs. ; loaf sugar, 
2 lbs. ; saltpetre, 2 ozs. : boil 20 to 30 minutes. 

DUTCH, OR HUNG BEEF. 

For fourteen pounds weight of the round, the rump, or the thick 
flank of beef, mix two ounces of saltpetre with the same quantity of 
coarse sugar ; rub the meat with them in every part, and let it remain 
for two days, then add one pound of bay salt, four ounces of common 
salt, and one ounce of ground black pepper. Rub these ingredients 
thoroughly into the beef, and in four days pour over it a pound of trea- 
cle; rub and turn it daily for a fortnight; drain, and send it to be 
smoked. When wanted for table, lay it into plenty of cold water, boil 
it very slowly, and press it under a heavy weight while hot. A slice 
of this beef, from which the edges have been carefully trimmed, wi±. 
serve to flavour soups or gravies as well as ham. 

Beef, 14 lbs. ; saltpetre and coarse sugar, each 2 ozs. : 2 days. Bay 
salt, 1 lb. ; common salt, 4 ozs. ; pepper, 1 oz. : 4 days. Treacle, 1 lb. : 
14 days. 

■ 



CHAP. VIII.] BEEF. 153 

Obs. — Three quarters of a pound of coarse sugar may be rubbed into 
the meat at first, and the treacle may be altogether omitted ; cloves 
and mace, too, may be added in the same proportion as for spiced beef. 

COLLARED BEEF. 

Only the thinnest part of the flank, or the ribs, which are not so 
generally used for it, will serve conveniently for collaring. The first 
of these should be hung in a damp place for a day or two, to soften the 
outer skin; then rubbed with coarse sugar, and left for a couple of days; 
when, for eight pounds of the meat, one ounce of saltpetre and half a 
pound of salt should be added. In ten days it will be fit to dress. The 
bones and tough inner skin must be removed, and the beef sprinkled 
thickly on the under side with parsley and other savoury herbs shred 
small, before it is rolled, which should be done very tightly : it must 
then be secured with a cloth, and bound as closely as possible with 
broad tape. It will require nearly or quite five hours of gentle boiling, 
and should be placed while hot under a weight, or in a press, without 
having the tape and cloth removed. 

Beef, 8 lbs. ; sugar, 3 ozs. ; salt, 8 ozs. : 10 days. Boil 5 hours. 

collared beef ; {another way.) 
Mix half an ounce of saltpetre with the same quantity of pepper, four 
ounces of bay salt, and four of common salt; with these rub well from 
six to seven pounds of the thin flank, and in four days add seven ounces 
of treacle ; turn the beef daily in the pickle for a week or more ; dip it 
into water, bone it and skin the inside, roll and bind it up very tightly, 
lay it into cold water, and boil it for three hours and a half. We have 
found beef dressed by this receipt extremely good : herbs can, of course, 
be added to it as usual. Spices and juniper berries would to many 
tastes improve it, but we give the receipt simply as we have been ac- 
customed to have it used. 

. Thin flank, 6 to 7 lbs. ; bay-salt, and common salt, each 4 ozs. ; salt- 
petre, h oz. ; pepper, i oz. : 4 days. Treacle, 7 ozs. : 8 to 10 days. 
Boiled 3^ hours. 

A COMMON RECEIPT FOR SALTING BEEF. 

One ounce of saltpetre, and a pound of common salt, will be sufficient 
for sixteen pounds of beef. Both should be well dried, and finely pow- 
dered ; the saltpetre rubbed first equally over the meat, and the salt 
next applied in every part. It should be rubbed thoroughly with the 
pickle and turned daily, from a week to ten days. An ounce or two of 
sugar mixed with the saltpetre will render the beef more tender and 
palatable. 

Beef, 16 lbs. ; saltpetre, 1 oz. ; salt, 1 lb. : 7 to 10 days. 

spiced round of beef; (very highly flavoured.') 

Rub the beef well in every part with half a pound of coarse brown 
sugar, and let it remain two days ; then reduce to powder, and mix 
thoroughly before they are applied to the meat, two ounces of saltpetre, 
three quarters of a pound of common salt, a quarter-pound of black pep 
per, three ounces of allspice, and four of bruised juniper-berries. Rub 
these ingredients strongly and equally over the joint, and do so daily 
for three weeks, turning it at the same time. Just wash oft' the spice, 



154 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. VIII. 

and put the beef into a tin, or covered earthen pan as nearly of its size 
as possible, with a cup of water or gravy ; cover the top thickly with 
chopped beef-suet, and lay a coarse thick crust over the pan; place the 
cover on it, and bake the meat from five to six hours in a well-heated 
oven, which should not, however, be sufficiently fierce to harden the 
outside of the joint, which, if properly managed, will be exceedingly 
tender. Let it cool in the pan ; and clear off the suet before it is dished. 
It is to be served cold, and will remain good for a fortnight. 

Beef, 20 to 25 lbs. weight; sugar, 3 ozs. : 2 days. Saltpetre, 2 ozs. ; 
common salt, | lb.; black pepper, 4 ozs.; allspice, 3 ozs.; juniper- 
berries, 4 ozs. : 21 days. Baked 5 to 6 hours. 

Ohs. — We have not ourselves tested this receipt, but the meat cured 
by it has received such high commendations from several of our friends 
who have partaken of it frequently, that we think we may safely insert 
it without. The proportion of allspice appears to us more than would 
be agreeable to many tastes, and we would rather recommend that part 
of it should be omitted, and that a portion of nutmeg, mace, and cloves 
should be substituted for it ; as we have found these spices to answer 
well in the following receipt. 

spiced beef; {good and wholesome.) 

For twelve pounds of the round, rump, or thick flank of beef, take a 
large teaspoonful of freshly-pounded mace, and of ground black pepper, 
twice as much of cloves, one small nutmeg, and a quarter teaspoonful 
of cayenne, all in the finest powder. Mix them well with seven ounces 
of brown sugar, rub the beef with them and let it lie three days ; add 
to it then half a pound of fine salt, and rub and turn it once in twenty- 
four hours for twelve days. Just wash, but do not soak it; skewer, or 
bind it into good form, put it into a stewpan or saucepan nearly of its 
size, pour to it a pint and a half of good beef broth, and when it begins 
to boil, take off the scum, and throw in one small onion, a moderate- 
sized faggot of thyme and parsley, and two large, or four small carrots. 
Let it simmer quite softly for four hours and a half, and if not wanted 
to serve hot, leave it in its own liquor until it is nearly cold. This is 
an excellent and far more wholesome dish than the hard, bright- 
coloured beef which is cured with large quantities of salt and saltpetre: 
two or three ounces of juniper-berries may be added to it with the spice, 
to heighten its flavour. 

Beef', 12 lbs. ; sugar, 7 ozs. ; mace and black pepper, each, 1 large 
teaspoonful ; cloves, in powder, 1 large dessertspoonful ; nutmeg, 1 ; 
cayenne, £ teaspoonful : 3 days. Fine salt, \ lb. : 12 days. Beef broth 
(or bouillon), 1^ pint; onion, 1 small; bunch of herbs; carrots, 2 large, 
or 4 small: stewed 4^ hours. 

Obs. — We give this receipt pxaclly as we have often had it used, but 
celery and turnips might be added to the gravy; and when the appear- 
ance of the meat is much considered, three-quarters of an ounce of salt- 
petre may be mixed with the spices; the beef may also be plainly boiled 
in water only, with a few vegetables, or baked in a deep pan with a 
little gravy. No meat must ever be left to cool in the stewpan or sauce- 
pan in which it is cooked ; it must be lifted into a pan of its own depth, 
and the liquor poured upon it. 



CHAP. VIII.] BEEF. 155 

A MINIATURE ROUND OF BEEF. 

" Select a fine rib of beef, and have it cut small or large in width, 
according to your taste ; it may thus be made to weigh from five to 
twelve pounds, or more. Take out the bone, and wrap the meat round 
like a fillet of veal, securing it with two or three wooden skewers; 
place it in a strong pickle for four or five days, and then cook it, taking 
care that it does not boil, but only simmers from forty minutes, or more, 
according to its size. It is best to put it on in hot water, as it will not 
draw the gravy so much as cold. Many persons adjust a rib of beef in 
this way for roasting: let them try it salted, and they need not envy the 
possessor of the finest round of beef." We give the receipt to our read- 
ers in its original form, and we can assure them, from our own experi- 
ence, that it is a good one ; but we would recommend that, in dressing 
the meat, quite the usual time for each pound of it should be allowed. 
When boned and rolled at the butcher's, the skewers should be removed 
when it is first brought in ; it should be well wiped with a dry cloth, or 
washed with a little fresh brine, and a small quantity of salt and salt- 
petre should be rubbed over the inside; it may then be firmly bound 
with tape, and will be quite ready to boil when taken from the pickle. 
The sirloin, after the inside fillet is removed, may be cured and dressed 
in the same way, and will be found super-excellent, if the beef be well 
fatted and properly kept. The Hamburg pickle (see page 152,) is per- 
haps the best for these joints. Part of the rump, taken clear of bone, 
answers admirably when prepared by this receipt. 

BEEF ROLL, OR, CANELLON DE BCEUF. (ENTREE.) 

Chop and mix thoroughly two pounds of lean and very tender beef, 
with one pound of slightly striped bacon; season them with a large tea- 
spoonful of pepper, a little salt, a small nutmeg, or two-thirds as much 
of mace, the grated rind of a lemon, or a teaspoonfnl of thyme and pars- 
ley finely minced. Form the whole into a thick rouleau, wrap a but- 
tered paper round it, enclose it in a paste made of flour and water, and 
send it to a moderate oven for a couple of hours. Remove the paper 
and the crust, and serve the meat with a little brown gravy. Lamb 
and veal are excellent dressed in this way, particularly when mixed 
with plenty of mushrooms. Brown cucumber sauce should be served 
with the lamb ; and currie, or oyster sauce, when there are no mush- 
rooms, with the veal. A flavouring of onion or of eschalot, where it is 
liked, can be added at pleasure to the beef; suet, or the fat of the meat, 
may be substituted for the bacon. 

Beef, 2 lbs. ; bacon, 1 lb.; pepper, } oz. ; little salt; small nutmeg; 
rind of 1 lemon, or fine herbs, 1 tablespoonful : baked 2 hours. 

MINCED COLLOPS AU NATUREL. 

Mince finely a pound of very tender undressed beef, free from fat or 
skin ; season it with a moderate quantity of pepper and salt, set it over 
a gentle fire, and keep it stirred with a fork until it is quite hot, that it 
may not gather into jumps. Simmer it very slowly in its own gravy 
from ten to twelve minutes, and then, should it be too dry, add a little 
boiling water, broth, or gravy ; stew it two minutes longer, and serve it 
directly. 

These collops are particularly suited to persons in delicate health, or 



156 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. VIII. 

of weak digestion ; and when an extra dish is required at a short notice, 
from the expedition with which they may be dressed, they are a con- 
venient resource. 
10 to 12 minutes. 

SAVOURY MINCED COLLOPS. 

Make a little brown thickening (see page 92) with about an ounce 
and a half of butter, and a dessertspoonful of flour ; when it begins to be 
coloured, shake lightly into it a large teaspoonful of finely-shred parsley 
or mixed savoury herbs, two-thirds as much of salt, and half the quan- 
tity of pepper. Keep these stirred over a gentle fire until the thicken- 
ing is of a deep yellow brown ; then add a pound of rump-steak, finely 
minced, and keep it well separated with a fork until it is quite hot; next 
pour to it gradually half a cupful of boiling water, and stew the collops 
very gently for ten minutes. Before they are served, stir to them a 
little catsup. Chili vinegar, or lemon-juice: a small quantity of minced 
onion, eschalot, or a particle of garlic, may be added at first to the thick- 
ening when the flavour is not objected to. 

SCOTCH MINCED COLLOPS. 

" Chop the beef small, season it with salt and pepper, put it, in its 
raw state, into small jars, and pour on the top some clarified butter. 
When wanted for use, put the clarified butter into a frying-pan, and 
slice some onions into the pan and fry them. Add a little water to them, 
and then put in the minced meat. Stew it well, and in a few minutes 
it will be fit to serve." 

BEEF TONGUES. 

These may be cured by any of the receipts which we have already 
given for pickling beef, or for those which will be found further on for 
hams and bacon. Some persons prefer them cured with salt and salt- 
petre only, and dried naturally in a cool and airy room. For such of 
our readers as like them highly and richly flavoured we give our own 
method of having them prepared, which is this: — "Rub over the tongue 
a handful of fine salt, and let it drain until the following day; then, 
should it weigh from seven to eight pounds, mix thoroughly an ounce 
of saltpetre, two ounces of the coarsest sugar, and half an ounce of black 
pepper ; when the tongue has been well rubbed with these, add three 
ounces of bruised juniper-berries; and when it has laid two days, eight 
ounces of bay salt, dried and pounded ; at the end of three days more, 
pour on it half a pound of treacle, and let it remain in the pickle a fort- 
night after this; then hang it to drain, fold it in brown paper, and send 
it to be smoked over a wood fire for two or three weeks. Should the 
peculiar flavour of the juniper-berries prevail too much, or be disap- 
proved, they may be in part, or altogether, omitted ; and six ounces of 
sugar may be rubbed into the tongue in the first instance when it is 
liked better than treacle. 

Tongue, 7 to 8 lbs. ; saltpetre, 1 oz. ; black pepper, $ oz. ; sugar, 2 
ozs. ; juniper-berries, 3 ozs. : 2 days. Bay salt, 8 ozs. : 3 days. Trea- 
cle, | lb. : 14 days. 

Qbs. — Before the tongue is salted, the gullet, which has an unsightly 
appearance, should be trimmed away: it is indeed usual to take the root 
off entirely, but some families prefer it left on for the sake of the fat. 



CHAP. VIII.] BEEF. J 57 

beep tongues ; (a Suffolk receipt.) 

For each very large tongue, mix with half a pound of salt two ounces 
of saltpetre and three-quarters of a pound of the coarsest sugar; rub the 
tongues daily, and turn them in the pickle for five weeks, when they 
will be fit to be dressed, or to be smoked. 

1 large tongue ; salt, £ lb. ; sugar, £ lb. ; saltpetre, 2 ozs. : 5 weeks 

TO DRESS BEEF TONGUES. 

When taken fresh from the pickle they require no soaking unless 
they should have remained in it much beyond the usual time, or have 
been cured with a more than common proportion of salt ; but when they 
have been smoked and hung for some time, they should be laid for two 
or three hours in cold, and as much longer in tepid water, before they 
are dressed : if extremely dry, ten or twelve hours must be allowed to 
soften them, and they should always be brought very slowly to boil. 
Two or three carrots and a large bunch of savoury herbs, added after 
the scum is cleared off, will improve them. They should be simmered 
until they are extremely tender, when the skin will peel from them 
easily. A highly dried tongue will usually require from three and a 
half to four hours' boiling ; an unsmoked one, about an hour less ; and 
for one which has not been salted at all, a shorter time will suffice. 

TO ROAST A BEEF HEART. 

Wash and soak the heart very thoroughly, cut away the lobes, fill 
the cavities with a veal forcemeat (No. 1, page 126), secure it well 
with a needle and twine, or very coarse thread, and roast it at a good 
fire for an hour and a half, keeping it basted plentifully with butter. 
Pour melted butter over it, after it is dished, and send it to table as hot 
as possible. Many persons boil the heart for three quarters of an hour 
before it is put to the fire, and this is said to render it more delicate eat- 
ing; the time of roasting must of course be proportionately diminished. 
Good brown gravy may be substituted for the melted butter, and cur- 
rant jelly also may be served with it. 

1^ hour, or more. 

BEEF KIDNEY. 

Trim, and cut the kidney into slices; season them with salt and 
pepper, and dredge them well with flour ; fry them on both sides, and 
when they are done through, lift them out, empty the pan, and make a 
gravy for them with a small slice of butter, a dessertspoonful of flour, 
pepper and salt, and a cup of boiling water; shake these round and give 
them a minute's simmering : add a little mushroom catsup, lemon-juice, 
eschalot vinegar, or any store sauce that will give a good flavour. 
Minced herbs are to many tastes an improvement to this dish, to which 
a small quantity of onion shred fine can be added when it is liked. 

6 to 9 minutes. 

AN EXCELLENT HASH OF COLD BEEF. 

Put a slice of butter into a thick saucepan, and when it boils throw 
in a dessertspoonful of minced herbs, and an onion (or two or three 
eschalots) shred small : shake them over the fire until lightly browned, 
then stir in a tablespoonful of flour, a little cayenne, some mace or nut- 
meg, and half a teaspoonful of salt. When the whole is well coloured. 



158 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. VIII. 

pour to it three quarters of a pint or more of broth or gravy, according 
to the quantity of meat to be served in it. Let this boil gently for fif- 
teen minutes ; then strain it ; add half a wineglassful of mushroom or 
of compound catsup; lay in the meat, and keep it by the side of the fire 
until it is heated through and is on the point of simmering, but be sure 
not to let it boil. Put some fried or toasted sippets into a very hot dish, 
and serve the hash directly. 

A COMMON HASH OF COLD BEEF OR MUTTON. 

Take the meat from the bones, slice it small, trim off the brown edges, 
and stew down the trimmings with the bones well broken, an onion, a 
bunch of thyme and parsley, a carrot cut into thick slices, a few pepper- 
corns, four cloves, some salt, and a pint and a half of water. When 
this is reduced to little more than three-quarters of a pint, strain it, 
clear it from the fat, thicken it with a large dessertspoonful of rice 
flour, or rather less of arrow-root ; add salt and pepper if needed, boil 
the whole for a few minutes, then lay in the meat and heat it well. 
Boiled potatoes are sometimes sliced hot into a very common hash. 

Obs. — The cook should be reminded that if the meat in a hash or 
mince be allowed to boil, it will immediately become hard, and can then 
only be rendered eatable by very long- stewing; which is by no means 
desirable for meat which is already sufficiently done. 

BRESLAW OF BEEF; (good.) 

Trim the brown edges from half a pound of underdressed roast beef, 
shred it small, and mix it with four ounces of fine bread-crumbs, a tea- 
spoonful of minced parsley, and two-thirds as much of thyme, two ounces 
of butter broken small, half a cupful of gravy or cream, a high season- 
ing of pepper and cayenne, and mace, or nutmeg, a small teaspoonful of 
salt, and three large eggs, well beaten. Melt a little butter in a pie 
dish, pour in the beef, and bake it half an hour; turn it out, and send it 
to table with brown gravy in a tureen. When cream or gravy is not 
at hand, an additional egg or two, and rather more butter, must be used. 
We think that grated lemon-rind improves the breslaw. A portion of 
fat from the joint can be added where it is liked. The mixture is some- 
times baked in buttered cups. 

Beef, \ lb. ; bread-crumbs, 4 ozs. ; butter, 2 ozs. ; gravy or cream, ^ 
cupful; parsley, 1 teaspoonful ; thyme, two-thirds of teaspoonful ; eggs, 
3, or 4, if small; salt, 1 teaspoonful; pepper and nutmeg, | teaspoonful 
each : bake \ hour. 

NORMAN HASH. 

Peel and fry two dozens of button onions in butter until they are 
lightly browned, then stir to them a tablespoonful of flour, and when 
the whole is of a deep amber shade, pour in a glass and a half of red 
wine, and a large cup of boiling broth or water; add a seasoning of 
salt and common pepper, or cayenne, and a little lemon-pickle, catsup, 
or lemon-juice, and boil the whole until the onions are quite tender; 
cut and trim into small handsome slices the remains of either a roast or 
boiled joint of beef, and arrange them in a clean saucepan ; pour the 
gravy and onions on them, and let them stand for awhile to imbibe the 
flavour of the sauce ; then place the hash near the fire, and when it is 
thoroughly hot serve it immediately, without allowing it to boil. 



CHAP. VIII. J BEEF. 159 

FRENCH RECEIPT FOR HASHED BOUILLI. 

Shake over a slow fire a bit of butter the size of an egg, and a table- 
spoonful of flour; when they have simmered for a minute, stir to them 
a little finely-chopped onion, and a dessertspoonful of minced parsley; 
so soon as the whole is equally browned, add sufficient pepper, salt, and 
nutmeg- to season the hash properly, and from half to three-quarters of 
a pint of boiling water or of bouillon. Put in the beef cut into small 
but thick slices; let it stand by the fire and heat gradually; and when 
near the point of boiling thicken the sauce with the yolks of three eggs, 
mixed with a tablespoonful of lemon-juice. For change, omit the eggs, 
and substitute a tablespoonful of catsup, and another of pickled gher- 
kins [small cucumbers], minced or sliced. 

BAKED MINCED BEEF. 

Mince tolerably fine, with a moderate proportion of its own fat, as 
much of the inside of a cold roast joint as will suffice for a dish : that 
which is least done is best for the purpose. Season it rather highly 
with cayenne and mace, or nutmeg, and moderately with salt ; add, 
when they are liked, one or two eschalots, minced small, with a few 
chopped mushrooms, either fresh or pickled, or two tablespoonsful of 
mushroom catsup. Moisten the whole, mixing it well, with a cupful 
of good gravy, and put it into a deep dish. Place on the top an inch- 
thick layer of bread-crumbs ; moisten these plentifully with clarified 
butter, passed through a small strainer over them, and send the mince 
to a slow oven for twenty minutes, or brown it in a Dutch oven. 

TO BOIL MARROW BONES. 

Let the large ends of the bones be sawed by the butcher, so that 
when they are dished they may stand upright; and if it can be done 
conveniently, let them be placed in the same manner in the vessel in 
which they are boiled. Put a bit of paste, made with flour and water, 
Over the ends where the marrow is visible, and tie a cloth tightly over 
them ; take the paste off before the bones are sent to table, and serve 
them, placed upright in a napkin, with slices of dry toasted bread, apart. 
When not wanted for immediate use, they may be partially boiled, and 
set into a cool place, where they will remain good tor many days. 

Large marrow bones, 2 hours; moderate sized, 1| hour. To keep: 
boil them 1 J hour, and from 5 to | hour more when wanted for table. 

BAKED MARROW BONES. 

When the bones have been sawed to the length of a deep pie dish, 
wash and wipe them dry, lay them into it, and cover them entirely with 
a good batter. Send them to a moderate oven for an hour or more, and 
serve them in the batter. 

CLARIFIED MARROW FOR KEEPING. 

Take the marrow from the bones while it is as fresh as possible; cut 
it small, put it into a very clean jar, and melt it with a gentle heat, 
either in a pan of water placed over the fire, or at the mouth of a cool 
oven ; strain it through a muslin, let it settle for a minute or two, and 
pour it, clear of sediment, into small jars. Tie skins, or double folds 
of thick paper, over them as soon as the marrow is cold, and store it in 
a cool place. It will remain good for months. 



160 



MODERN COOKERY. 



[chap. IX. 



CHAPTER IX. 
VEAL. 




No. 

1. Loin, Best End. 

2. Loin, Chump End. 

3. Fillet. 

4. Hind Knuckle. 

5. Fore Knuckle. 



No. 

6. Neck, Best End. 

7. Neck, Scrag End. 

8. Blade Bone. 

9. Breast, Best End. 
10. Breast, Brisket End. 



TO CHOOSE VEAL. 



Veal should be fat, finely grained, white, firm, and not overgrown : 
for when very large it is apt to be coarse and tough. It is more diffi- 
cult to keep than any other meat except pork, and should never be 
allowed to acquire the slightest taint before it is dressed, as any ap- 
proach to putridity renders it equally unwholesome and offensive to the 
taste. The fillet, the loin, the shoulder, and the best end of the neck, 
are the parts generally selected for roasting ; the breast and knuckle 
are more usually stewed or boiled. The udder, or firm white fat of the 
fillet, is much used by French cooks instead of butter, especially in the 
composition of their forcemeats : for these, it is first well boiled, then 
left until quite cold, and afterwards thoroughly pounded before it is 
mixed with the other ingredients. The head and feet of the calf are 
valuable articles of food, both for the nutriment which the gelatinous 
parts of them afford, and for the great variety of modes in which they 
may be dressed. The kidneys, with the rich fat that surrounds them, 
and the sweetbreads especially, are well known delicacies; the liver 
and the heart also are very good eating ; and no meat is so generally 
useful for rich soups and gravies as veal. 

TO TAKE THE HAIR FROM A CALF'S HEAD WITH THE SKIN ON. 

It is better to do this before the head is divided ; but if only the half 
of one with the skin on can be procured, it must be managed in the 
same way. Put it into plenty of water which is on the point of sim- 
mering, but which does not positively boil, and let it remain in until it 
does so, and for five or six minutes afterwards, but at the first full bub- 
ble draw it from the fire and let it merely scald ; then lift it out, and 
with a knife that is not sharp scrape oft' the hair as closely and as 
quickly as possible. The butchers have an instrument on purpose for 
the operation ; but we have had the head look quite as well when done 
in the manner we have just described, as when it has been sent in 
readv prepared by them. After the hair is off, the head should be well 



CHAP. IX.] VEAL. 161 

washed, and if it cannot be cooked the same day, it must be wiped ex- 
tremely dry before it is hung- up; and when it has not been divided, it 
should be left whole until the time approaches for dressing it. The 
brain must then be taken out, and both that and the head well soaked 
and washed with the greatest nicety. When the half head only is 
scalded, the brain should first be removed. Calves' feet are freed from 
the hair easily in the same manner ; indeed, we find it a better mode 
of having it cleared from them than the one we have given in Chapter 
XX., though that is practised by many good butchers. 

BOILED CALF'S HEAD. '# 

When the head is dressed with the skin on, which many persons 
prefer, the ear must be cut off* quite close to it; it will require three 
quarters of an hour or upwards of additional boiling, and should be 
served covered with fried crumbs: the more usual mode, however, is 
to boil it without the skin. In either case, first remove the brain, wash 
the head delicately clean, and soak it for a quarter of an hour; cover it 
plentifully with cold water, remove the scum as it rises with great 
care, throw in a little salt, and boil the head gently until it is perfectly 
tender. In the mean time, wash and soak the brains first in cold and 
then in warm water, remove the skin or film, boil them in a small 
saucepan from fourteen to sixteen minutes, according to their size, and 
when they are done, chop and mix them with eight or ten sage leaves 
boiled tender, and finely minced, or, if preferred, with parsley boiled 
instead ; warm them in a spoonful or two of melted butter, or white 
sauce ; skin the tongue, trim oft* the root, and serve it in a small dish 
with the brains laid round it. Send the head to table very hot, with 
parsley and butter poured over it, and some more in a tureen. A cheek 
of bacon, or very delicate pickled pork, and greens, are the usual ac- 
companiments to boiled calf's head. 

We have given here the common English mode of serving this dish, 
by some epicures considered the best, and by others, as exceedingly 
insipid. On the Continent, tomata sauce takes the place of the parsley 
and butter ; and rich oyster or Dutch sauce are varieties often substi- 
tuted for it in this country. 

With the skin on, from 2\ to 2£ hours ; without the skin, from 1^ to 
If hour. 

calf's head, the warder's way ; (an excellent receipt.) 

Boil the half-head until tolerably tender; let it cool, and bone it 
entirely ; replace the brain, lay the head into a stewpan, and simmer 
it gently for an hour in rich gravy. From five and twenty to thirty 
minutes before it is dished, add, if procurable, half a pint of mushroom- 
buttons. Thicken the gravy, if needful, with rice-flour, or with flour 
and butter, and serve plenty of forcemeat-balls round the head. For 
dishes of this kind, a little sweet-basil wine, or a few sprigs of the herb 
itself, impart a very agreeable flavour. When neither these nor mush- 
rooms are within reach, the very thin rind of a small but fresh lemon 
may be boiled in the gravy, and the strained juice added at the instant 
of serving. 

Boiled from 1 to 2 hours ; stewed 1 hour. 

Ohs. — The skin, with the ear, may be left on the nead rbr this re- 
ceipt, and the latter slit into narrow strips from the tip to within au 
10 



162 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. IX. 

inch and a half of the base ; which will give it a feathery and orna- 
mental appearance : the head may then be glazed or not at pleasure. 

prepared calf's head ; {the Cook's receipt.) 
Take away the brains and tongue from the half of a calf's head, and 
then remove the bones, being careful in doing so to keep the knife as 
close to them as possible, and to avoid piercing the outer skin : in this 
consists the whole art of boning, in which an attentive cook may easily 
render herself expert. Next wash the head and dry it in a clean cloth ; 
sprinkle over the inside a little pounded mace and cayenne, or white 
pepper ; roll it up tightly, and bind it round with tape or twine. Lay 
into a small stew pot three or four pounds of neck of veal or of beef, 
twice or thrice divided, and place the head upon it with the bones well 
Droken ; pour in half a gallon of cold water, or as much as will suffice 
to keep the head covered until it is done, and simmer it very gently 
from an hour and a quarter to an hour and three quarters. When it is 
extremely tender, lift it out, and if wanted for table, remove the bind- 
ing, and serve it very hot, with currie sauee, rich oyster sauce, or egg 
sauce and brown gravy ; but should the remains, or the whole of it be 
required for the following receipts, pour no gravy over it : in the latter 
case do not take off the tape for several hours. The tongue may be 
stewed with the head, but will require rather less time. We do not 
think it needful to repeat in every receipt our directions for adding salt 
to, and removing carefully the scum from, meats that are stewed or 
boiled, but the cook must not neglect either. When the trouble of 
boning is objected to, it can be dispensed with for some of the dishes 
which follow, but not for all. After the head is taken out, boil the 
gravy until it is well reduced, and rich : it should be strongly jellied 
when cold. A bone of barn, or a slice of hung beef will much improve 
its flavour ; but vegetables must be avoided if it be wanted to keep : a 
little spice and a faggot of parsley may be added to it, and a calf's foot 
will be sure to give it the requisite degree of firmness. This receipt 
is for a head without the skin. 

HASHED CALF'S HEAD. 

When the whole of this dish has to be prepared, make for it a quart 
of stock, and proceed in all else as in making mock turtle soup; 
but after the head has been parboiled, cut down a full pound and 
a half of it for the hash, and slice it small and thick, instead of dividing 
it into dice. Make the brains into cakes (see page 126), and gar- 
nish the dish with forcemeat balls, rolled in egg r and in the finest 
bread-crumbs, then fried a delicate brown, and well drained, and dried 
upon a warm sieve reversed. The wine and other seasonings should 
be the same as for the soup. 

Rich gravy, 1 quart; flesh of calf's head, full 1£ lb.; wine, and 
other seasonings, as for mock turtle soup. 

Obs. — The gravy for this hash should be stewed with ham, eschalots, 
&c, exactly as for the soup. 

CHEAP HASH OF CALF's HEAD. 

Take the flesh from the bone of a cold boiled head, and put it aside 
until wanted ; take about three pints of the liquor in which it was 



CHAP. IX.] VEAL. 1()3 

cooked ; break the bones, and stew them down with a small bunch of 
savoury herbs, a carrot, or two should they be small, a little carefully 
fried onion, four cloves, a dozen corns of pepper, and either a slice or 
two of lean unboiled ham, or the bone of a boiled one, quite cleared of 
flesh, well bruised and broken, and freed carefully from any of the 
smoked outsides. If neither of these can be had, from half to a whole 
pound of neck of beef should be stewed with the bones, or the whole 
will be insipid in flavour. When the liquid is reduced nearly half, 
strain it, take off the fat, thicken it with a little well-made roux, or, if 
more convenient, with flour and butter, stirred into it when it boils, or 
with rice flour or arrow-root, mixed with a little spice, mushroom cat- 
sup, or Harvey's sauce, and a small quantity of lemon pickle or Chili 
vinegar. Heat the meat slowly in the sauce when it is ready, but do 
not allow it to boil. The forcemeat, No. 1. of Chapter VI., may be 
rolled into balls, fried, and served round it. The gravy should be well 
seasoned. 

TO DRESS COLD CALF'S HEAD OR VEAL A LA MAITRE d'hOTEl! (GOOD.) 

{English receipt.) 

Cut into small delicate slices, or into scollops of equal size, sufficient 
cold calf's head or veal for a dish. Next knead very smoothly together 
with a knife two ounces of butter, and a small dessertspoonful of flour; 
put these into a stewpan or well-tinned saucepan, and keep them stirred 
or shaken over a gentle fire until they have simmered for a minute or 
two, but do not Jet them take the slightest colour ; then add to them in 
very small portions (letting the sauce boil up after each is poured in) 
half a pint of pale veal gravy, or of good shin-of-beef stock, and when 
the whole is very smoothly blended, and has boiled for a couple of mi- 
nutes, mix together and stir to it a tablespoonful of common vinegar, a 
dessertspoonful of Chili vinegar, a little cayenne, a tablespoonful of 
good mushroom catsup, and a very small bit of sugar; and when the 
sauce again boils, strew a tablespoonful of minced parsley over the 
meat, lay it in, and let it stand by the fire until it is quite heated 
through, but do not allow it to boil : if kept just at the simmering point 
for ten or twelve minutes, it may be served perfectly hot without. The 
addition of the mushroom catsup converts this into an English sauce, 
and renders it in colour, as well as in flavour, unlike the French one 
which bears the same name, and which is acidulated generally with 
lemon-juice instead of vinegar. Pickled mushrooms are sometimes 
added to the dish : the parsley when it is objected to may be omitted, 
and the yolks of two or three eggs mixed with a little cream may be 
stirred in, but not allowed to boil, just before the meat is served. When 
veal is used for this hash instead of calf's head, it should be cut into 
slices not much larger than a twenty-five cent piece, and freed entirely 
from fat, sinew, and the brown edges. When neither broth nor gravy 
is at hand, a morsel or two of lean ham, and a few of the trimmings or 
bones of the head or joint, may be boiled down to supply its olace. 

Sufficient cold calf's head, or meat, for a dish; butter, 2 ozs. ; flour, 
1 small dessertspoonful ; gravy, or strong broth, ^, pint ; vinegar, and 
mushroom catsup, of each 1 tablespoonful ; Chili vinegar, 1 dessert- 
spoonful ; small bit of sugar ; little cayenne, and salt if needed ; 
parsley, 1 tablespoonful (pickled mushrooms or not at pleasure). 



164 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. IX. 

Obs. — Soles or codfish are very good, if raised neatly from the bones, 
or Jlaked, and heated in this Maitre d'Hotel sauce. 

calf's head brawn; (authors receipt.) 
The half of a fine large calf's head, with the skin on, will best an- 
swer for this brawn. Take out the brains, and bone it entirely, or get 
the butcher to do this; rub a little fine salt over, and let it drain for ten 
or twelve hours ; next wipe it dry, and rub it well in every part with 
three-quarters of an ounce of saltpetre finely powdered (or with an ounce 
should the head be very large) and mixed with four ounces of common 
salt, and three of bay salt, also beaten fine; turn the head daily in this 
pickle for four or five days, rubbing it. a little each time ; and then pour 
over it four ounces of treacle, and continue to turn it every day, and 
baste it with the brine very frequently for a month. Hang it up for a 
night to drain, fold it in brown paper, and send it to be smoked where 
wood only is burned, from three to four weeks. When wanted for table, 
wash and scrape it very clean, but do not soak it; lay it, with the rind 
downwards, into a saucepan or stewpan, which will hold it easily; cover 
it well with cold water, as it will swell considerably in the cooking; let 
it heat rather slowly, skim it thoroughly when it first begins to simmer, 
and boil it as gently as possible from an hour and three-quarters to a 
couple of hours, or more, should it not then be perfectly tender quite 
through ; for unless sufficiently boiled, the skin, which greatly resem- 
bles brawn, will be unpleasantly tough when cold. When the fleshy 
side of the head is done, which will be twenty minutes or half an hour 
sooner than the outside, pour the water from it, leaving so much only 
in the stewpan as will just cover the gelatinous part, and simmer it 
until this is thoroughly tender. The head thus cured is very highly 
flavoured, and most excellent eating. The receipt for it is entirely- 
new, having originated with ourselves. We give the reader, in addi- 
tion, the result of our first experiment with it, which was exceedingly 
successful: — "A half calf's head, not very large, without the skin, 
pickled with three ounces of common salt, two of bay salt, half an ounce 
of saltpetre, one ounce of brown sugar, and half an ounce of pepper, left 
four days ; then three ounces of treacle added, and the pickling continued 
for a month ; smoked nearly as long, and boiled between one hour and 
a half, and two hours." The pepper was omitted in our second trial, 
because it did not improve the appearance of the dish, although it was 
an advantage in point of flavour. Juniper-berries might, we think, be 
added with advantage, when they are liked; and cayenne tied in a 
muslin might supply the place of the pepper. It is an infinite improve* 
ment to have the skin of the head left on. 

TO ROAST A FILLET OF VEAL. 

Take out the bone and put a good roll of forcemeat (No. 1, page 122) 
under the flap, dividing first, with a sharp knife, the skin from the meat 
sufficiently to admit the quantity required ; secure it well, truss the veal 
firmly into good shape, place it at a distance from the fire at first, and 
baste it with butter. The outside will have a richer crust of browning 
if the meat be washed, wiped tolerably dry, and well floured before it 
is laid to the fire. It should be carefully watched, and basted often, 
that the iat may not burn. Pour melted butter over it after it is dished, 



CHAP. IX.] VEAL. 165 

and serve with it a boiled cheek of bacon and a lemon. Roast it from 
three hours and a half, to four hours and a half, according to its size. 

BOILED FILLET OF VEAL. 

A small and delicately white fillet should be selected for this purpose. 
Bind it round with tape, after having- washed it thoroughly ; cover it 
well with cold water, and bring it gently to boil ; watch, and clear off 
carefully, the scum as it rises, and be, at the same time, very cautious 
not to allow the water to become smoked. Let the meat be gently sim- 
mered from three hours and a half to four and a half, according to its 
weight. Send it to table with rich white sauce, and a boiled tongue; 
or make for it in the first instance the oyster forcemeat of Chapter VI., 
and serve with the veal a tureen of well-made oyster sauce. 

3* 5 to 4i hours. 

ROAST LOIN OF VEAL. 

It is not usual to stuff a loin of veal, but we greatly recommend the 
practice, as an infinite improvement to the joint. Make the same force- 
meat as for the fillet; and insert it between the skin and the flesh just 
over the ends of the bones. Skewer down the flap, place the joint at a 
moderate distance from a sound fire, keep it constantly basted, and be 
especially careful not to allow the kidney fat to burn : to prevent this, 
and to ensure the good appearance of the joint, a buttered paper is often 
fastened round the loin, and removed about half an hour before it is 
taken from the fire. It is the fashion in some counties to serve egg- 
sauce and brown gravy with roast loin, or breast of veal. 

The cook will scarcely need to be told that she must separate the 
skin from the flank, with a sharp knife, quite from the end, to the place 
where the forcemeat is to be put, and then skewer the whole very se- 
curely. When the veal is not papered, dredge it well with flour soon 
after it is laid to the fire. 

2 to 2 1 hours. 

BOILED LOIN OF VEAL. 

If dressed with care and served with good sauces, this, when the meal 
is small and white, is an excellent dish, and often more acceptable to 
persons of delicate habit than roast veal. Take from eight to ten pounds 
of the best end of the loin, leave the kidney in with all its fat, skewer 
or bind down the flap, lay the meat into cold water, and boil it as gently 
as possible from two hours and a quarter to two and a half, clearino- off 
the scum perfectly, as in dressing the fillet. Send it to table with well- 
made oyster sauce, or bechamel, or with white sauce well flavoured 
with lemon-juice, and with parsley, boiled, pressed dry, and finely 
chopped. 

2\ to 2^ hours. 

STEWED LOIN OF VEAL. 

Take part of a loin of veal, the chump end will do; put into a large, 
thick, well-tinned iron saucepan, or into a stewpan, about a couple of 
ounces of butter, and shake it over a moderate fire until it begins to 
brown ; flour the veal well all over, lay it into the saucepan, and when 
it is of a fine, equal light-brown, pour gradually in veal broth, gravy, 
or boiling water to nearly half its depth ; add a little salt, one or two 
sliced carrots, a small onion, or more when the flavour is much liked, 



166 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. IX. 

and a bunch of parsley ; stew the veal very softly for an hour or rather 
more ; then turn it, and let it stew for nearly or quite another hour, or 
longer should it not appear perfectly done. As none of our receipts 
have been tried with large, coarse veal, the cooking must be regulated 
by that circumstance, and longer time allowed should the meat be of 
more than middling size. Dish the joint; skim all the fat from the 
gravy, and strain it over the meat; or keep the joint hot while it is 
rapidly reduced to a richer consistency. This is merely a plain family 
etew. 

BOILED BREAST OF VEAL*. 

Let both the veal and the sweetbread be washed with exceeding 
nicety, cover them with cold water, clear off the scum as it rises, throw 
in a little salt, add a bunch of parsley, a large blade of mace, and twenty 
white peppercorns; simmer the meat from an hour to an hour and a 
quarter, and serve it covered with rich onion sauce. Send it to table 
very hot. The sweetbread may be taken up when half done, and cur- 
ried, or made into cutlets, or stewed in brown gravy. When onions 
are objected to, substitute white sauce and a cheek of bacon for them, 
or parsley and butter, if preferred to it. 

1 to 1\ hour. 

TO ROAST A BREAST OF VEAL. 

Let the caul remain skewered over the joint till within half an hour 
of its being ready for table ; place it at a moderate distance from a 
brisk fire, baste it constantly, and in about an hour and a half remove 
the caul, flour the joint, and let it brown. Dish and pour melted butter 
over it, and serve it with a cut lemon, and any other of the usual ac- 
companiments to veal. It may be garnished with fried balls of the 
forcemeat (No. 1, Chapter VI.), about the size of a walnut. 

2 to 2^ hours. 

TO BONE A SHOULDER OF VEAL, MUTTON OR LAMB. 

Spread a clean cloth upon a table or dresser, and lay the joint flat 
upon it, with the skin downwards; with a sharp knife cut off the flesh 
from the inner side, nearly down to the blade 
bone, of which detach the edges first, then 
work the knife under it, keeping it always 
close to the bone, and using all possible pre- 
caution not to pierce the outer skin ; when 
it is in every part separated from the flesh, 
loosen it from the socket with the point of 
Shoulder of Veal or Mutton, the knife, and remove it; or, without di- 
boned and rolled. viding the two bones, cut round the joint 

until it is freed entirely from the meat, and proceed to detach the second 
bone. That of the knuckle is frequently left in, but for some dishes it 
is necessary to take it out ; in doing this, be careful not to tear the 
skin. A most excellent, grill may be made by leaving sufficient meat 
for it upon the bones of a shoulder of mutton, when they are removed 
from the joint: it will be found very superior to the broiled blade-bone 
of a roast shoulder, which is so much esteemed by many people. 

stewed shoulder of veal ; {English receipt.) 
Bone a shoulder of veal, and strew the inside thickly with savoury 




CHAP. IX.] VEAL. 167 

herbs, minced small ; season it well with salt, cayenne, and pounded 
mace ; and place on these a layer of ham cut in thin slices, and freed 
from rind and rust. Roll the veal, and bind it tightly with a fillet; 
roast it for an hour and a half, then simmer it gently in good brown 
gravy for five hours; add forcemeat balls before it is dished; skim the 
fat from the gravy, and serve it with the meat. This receipt, for which 
we are indebted to a correspondent on whom we can depend, and which 
we have not, therefore, proved ourselves, is for a joint which weighs 
ten pounds before it is boned. 

ROAST NECK OF VEAL. 

The best end of the neck will make an excellent roast. A forcemeat 
may be inserted between the skin and the flesh, by first separating them 
with a sharp knife; or the dish may be garnished with the forcemeat in 
balls. From an hour and three-quarters to a couple of hours will roast 
it. Pour melted butter over it when it is dished, and serve it like other 
joints. Let it be floured when first laid to the fire, kept constantly 
basted, and always at a sufficient distance to prevent its being scorched. 

If to 2 hours. 

For the forcemeat, see No. 1, Chapter VI. From 8 to 10 minutes 
will fry the balls. 

knuckle of veal; (en Ragout.) 
Cut in small thick slices the flesh of a knuckle of veal, season it with 
a little fine salt and white pepper, flour it lightly, and fry it in butter to 
a pale brown, lay it into a very clean stewpan or saucepan, and just 
cover it with boiling water; skim it clean, and add to it a faggot of 
thyme and parsley, the white part of a head of celery, a small quantity 
of cayenne, and a blade or two of mace. Stew it very softly from an 
hour and three-quarters, to two hours and a half. Thicken and enrich 
the gravy if needful with rice-flour and mushroom catsup or Harvey's 
sauce, or with a large teaspoonful of flour, mixed with a slice of butter, 
a little good store-sauce and a glass of sherry or Madeira. Fried force- 
meat balls of No. 1, page 122, may be added at pleasure. With an 
additional quantity of water, or of broth (made with the bones of the 
joint), a pint and a half of young green peas stewed with the veal for 
an hour will give an agreeable variety of this dish. 

BOILED KNUCKLE OF VEAL. 

After the joint has been trimmed and well washed, put it into a ves- 
sel well adapted to it in size, for if it be very large, so much water wdl 
be required that the veal will be deprived of its flavour ; it should be 
well covered with it, and very gently boiled until it is perfectly tender 
in every part, but not so much done as to separate from the bone. . Clear 
off the scum with scrupulous care when the simmering first commences, 
and throw in a small portion of salt ; as this, if sparingly used, will not 
redden the meat, and will otherwise much improve it. Parsley and 
butter is usually both poured over, and sent to table with a knuckle of 
veal, and boiled bacon also should accompany it. From the sinewy 
nature of this joint, it requires more than the usual time of cooking, ? 
quarter of an hour to the pound not being sufficient for it. 

Vea 1 , 6 to 7 lbs.: 2 hours or more. 



168 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. IX. 

KNUCKLE OF VEAL WITH RICE OR GREEN PEAS. 

Pour over a small knuckle of veal rather more than sufficient water 
to cover it ; bring it slowly to a boil ; take off all the scum with great 
care, throw in a teaspoonful of salt, and when the joint has simmered 
for about half an hour, throw in from eight to twelve ounces of well- 
washed rice, and stew the veal gently for an hour and a half longer, or 
until both the meat and rice are perfectly tender. A seasoning of cay- 
enne and mace in fine powder with more salt, should it be required, 
must be added twenty or thirty minutes before they are served. For a 
superior stew, good veal broth may be substituted for the water. 

Veal, 6 lbs. ; water, 3 to 4 pints; salt, 1 teaspoonful : 30 to 40 min- 
utes. Rice, 8 to 12 ozs. : labour. Seasoning of cayenne, mace, and 
more salt if needed. A quart or even more of full-grown green peas 
added to the veal as soon as the scum has been cleared off will make a 
most excellent stew. It should be well seasoned with white pepper, 
and the mace should be omitted. Two or three cucumbers, pared and 
freed from the seeds, may be sliced into it when it boils, or four or live 
young lettuces shred small may be used to give it flavour. 

BORDYKE VEAL CAKE; (good.) 

Take a pound and a half of veal perfectly clear of fat and skin, and 
eight ounces of the nicest striped bacon ; chop them separately, then 
mTx them well together with the grated rind of a small lemon, half a 
teaspoonful of salt~ a fourth as much of cayenne, the third part of a nut- 
meg, grated, and a half-teaspoonful of freshly pounded mace. When it 
is pressed into the dish, let it be somewhat higher in the centre than at 
the edge ; and whether to be served hot or cold, lift it out as soon as it 
comes'from the oven, and place it on a strainer that the fat may drain 
from it: it will keep many days if the under side be dry. The bacon 
should be weighed after the rind, and any rust it may exhibit, have 
been trimmed °from it : that cured by the East Farleigh receipt, (see 
Chapter XI.) is best for the purpose. This cake is excellent cold, bet- 
ter indeed than the preceding one; but slices of either if preferred hot, 
may be warmed through in a Dutch oven, or on the gridiron, or in a 
few spoonsful of gravy. The same ingredients made into small cakes, 
well floured, and slowly fried from twelve to fifteen minutes, then served 
with gravy made in the pan as for cutlets, will be found extremely 
good. 

Veal, 1^ lb.; striped bacon, 8 ozs.; salt and mace, 1 teaspoonful 
each; rind" of lemon, 1; third of 1 nutmeg; cayenne, 4 grains: baked 
1^ to H hour. 

FRICANDEAU OF VEAL. (ENTREE.) 

French cooks always prefer for this dish, which is a common one in 
their own country, that part of the fillet to which the fat or udder is 
attached ;* but the flesh of the finer part of the neck, or loin, raised 
clear from the bones, may be made to answer the purpose nearly, or 
quite as well, and often much more conveniently, as the meat with us 
is not divided for sale as in France ; and to purchase the entire fillet, 
for the sake of the fricundeau, would render it exceedingly expensive. 
Lay the veal flat upon a table, or dresser, with the skin uppermost, and 



* Called by them the noix. 



CHAP. IX. J VEAL. 101) 

endeavour, with one stroke of an exceedingly sharp knife, to clear 
this off, and to leave the surface of the meat extremely smooth ; next 
lard it thickly with small lardoons, as directed lor a partridge (page 
140,) and make one or two incisions in the wndei side with the point 
of a knife, that it may the hetter imbibe the flavour of the seasoning's. 
Take a stewpan, of sufficient, size to hold the fricandeau, and the 
proper quantity of vegetables compactly arranged, without much room 
being left round the meat. Put into it a couple of large carrots, 
cut in thick slices, two onions of moderate size, two or three roots 
of parsley, three bay-leaves, two small blades of mace, a branch or 
two of lemon thyme, and a little cayenne, or a saltspoonfu! of white 
peppercorns. Raise these high in the centre of the stewpan, so as to 
support the meat, and prevent its touching the gravy. Cover them with 
slices of very fat bacon, and place the fricandeau gently on them ; then 
pour in as much good veal broth, or stock, as will nearly cover the vege- 
tables without reaching to the veal. A calf's foot, split in two, may 
with advantage be laid under them in the first instance. Stew the fri- 
candeau vtry gently for upwards of three hours, or until it is found to 
be extremely tender when probed with a fine skewer or a larding-pin. 
Plenty of live embers must then be put on the lid of the stewpan for 
ten minutes, or a quarter of an hour, to render the lardoons firm. Lift 
out the fricandeau, and keep it hot; strain and reduce the gravy very 
quickly, after having skimmed off every particle of fat; glaze the veal, 
and serve it on a ragout of sorrel, cucumbers, or spinach. This, though 
rather an elaborate receipt, is the best we can offer to the reader lor a 
dish, which is now almost as fashionable with us as it is common on the 
Continent. Some English cooks have a very summary method of pre- 
paring it; they merely lard and boil the veal until they can "cut it 
with a spoon," then glaze and serve it with "brown gravy in the dish." 
This may be very tolerable eating, but it will bear small resemblance to 
the French fricandeau. 
3 J to 4 hours. 

SPRING-STEW OF VEAL. 

Cut two pounds of veal, free from fat, into small half-inch thick cut- 
lets; flour them well, and fry them in butter with two small cucumbers 
sliced, sprinkled with pepper, and floured, one moderate sized lettuce, 
and twenty-four green gooseberries cut open lengthwise and seeded. 
When the whole is nicely browned, lift it into a thick snucepan, and 
pour gradually into the pan half a pint, or rather more, of boiling water, 
broth, or gravy. Add as much salt and pepper as it requires. Give it 
a minute's simmer, and pour it over the meat, shaking it well round the 
pan as this is done. Let the veal stew gently from three quarters of 
an hour to an hour. A bunch of green onions cut small may be added 
to the other vegetables if liked; and the veal will eat better if slightly 
seasoned with salt and pepper before it is floured ; a portion of fat can 
be left on it if preferred. 

Veal, 2 lbs. ; cucumbers, 2 ; lettuce, 1 ; green gooseberries, 24 ; water 
or broth, h pint or more : | to 1 hour. 

NORMAN IIARRICO. 

Brown in a stewpan, or fry lightly, after having sprinkled them with 
pepper, salt and flour, from two to three pounds of veal cutlets. If 



170 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. IX. 

taken from the neck, chop the bones very short, and trim away the 
greater part of the fat. Arrange them as flat as they can be in a sauce- 
pan ; give a pint of hot water a boil in the pan in which they have been 
browned, and pour it on them ; add a small faggot of parsley, and, 
should the flavour be liked, one of green onions also. Let the meat 
simmer softly for half an hour; then cover it with small new potatoes 
which have had a single boil in water, give the saucepan a shake, and 
let the harrico stew very gently for another half hour, or until the pota- 
toes are quite done, and the veal is tender. When the cutlets are thick 
and the potatoes approaching their full size, more time will be required 
for the meat, and the vegetables may be at once divided : if extremely 
young they will not need the previous boil. Before the harrico is 
served, skim the fat from it, and add salt and pepper should it not be 
sufficiently seasoned. A few bits of lean ham, or shoulder of bacon 
browned with the veal, will much improve this dish, and for some tastes, 
a little acid will render it more agreeable. Very delicate pork chops 
may be dressed in the same way. 

Veal, 2 to 3 lbs.; water (or gravy), 1 pint; new potatoes, 1£ to 2 
lbs. ; faggot, parsley and green onions : 1 hour or more. 

. VEAL CUTLETS. 

Take them, if possible, free from bone, and after having trimmed 
them into proper shape, beat them with a paste roller until the fibre of 
the meat is thoroughly broken ; flour them well to prevent the escape 
of the gravy, and fry them from twelve to fifteen minutes over a fire 
which is not sufficiently fierce to burn them before they are quite cooked 
through : they should be of a fine amber brown, and perfectly done. 
Lift them into a hot dish, pour the fat from the pan, throw in a slice of 
* fresh butter, and when it is melted, stir or dredge in a dessertspoonful 
of flour; keep these shaken until they are well coloured, then pour 
gradually to them a cup of gravy or boiling water; add pepper, salt, a 
little lemon pickle or juice, give the whole a boil, and pour it over the 
cutlets: a few forcemeat-balls, fried, and served with them, is usually 
a very acceptable addition to this dish, even when it is garnished or 
accompanied with rashers of ham or bacon. A morsel of glaze, or of 
the jelly of roast meat, should, when at hand, be added to the sauce, 
which a little mushroom powder would further improve: mushroom 
sauce, indeed, is considered by many epicures as indispensable with 
veal cutlets. We have recommended, in this one instance, that the 
meat should be thoroughly beaten, because we find that the veal is 
wonderfully improved by the process, which, however, we still depre- 
cate for other meat. 
12 to 15 minutes. 

teal cutlets, or collops. (entree.) (A la Francaise.) 

Cut the veal into small, thin, round collops of equal size, arrange 
them evenly in a saute-pan, or in a small frying-pan, and sprinkle a 
little fine salt, white pepper, and grated nutmeg on them. Clarify, oi 
merely dissolve in a clean saucepan, with a gentle degree of heat, an 
ounce or two of good butter, and pour it equally over the meat. Set 
the pan aside until the dinner-hour, then fry the collops over a clear 
fire, and when they are lightly browned, which will be in from four to 



CHAP. IX.] VEAL, 171 

five minutes, lift them into a hot dish, and sauce them with a little 
Espagnole, or with a gravy made quickly in the pan, and flavoured 
with lemon-juice and cayenne. They are excellent even without any 
sauce. 

3 to 4 minutes. 

SCOTCH COLLOPS. (ENTREE.) 

Prepare the veal as for the preceding receipt, but dip the collops into 
beaten egg and seasoned bread-crumbs, and fry them directly in good 
butter, over a moderate fire, of a light golden brown ; drain them well 
in lifting them from the pan, and sauce them like the collops a la 
Francaise. 

VEAL CUTLETS, A LA MODE DE LONDRES ; OR, LONDON 
FASHION. (ENTREE.) 

Raise the flesh entire from the upper side of the best end of a neck 
of veal, free it from the skin, and from the greater portion of the fat, 
slice it equally into cutlets little more than a quarter of an inch thick, 
brush them with egg, strew them with fine bread-crumbs, and fry them 
of a light brown. Toast, or fry apart as many small slices of bacon as 
there are cutlets, and let them be trimmed nearly to the same shape ; 
place them alternately on their edges round the inside of a hot dish (so 
as to form a sort of chain), and pour into the middle some rich gravy 
made in the pan, and very slightly flavoured with eschalot ; or substi- 
tute for this some good brown mushroom sauce. Savoury herbs, grated 
lemon-rind, nutmeg, or mace, salt, and white pepper, or cayenne, should 
be mixed with the bread-crumbs, in the proper proportions, for cutlets 
of calf's head ; or they may be varied at pleasure. A cheek of bacon 
is best adapted to this dish. 

sweetbreads, (entree.) (Simply dressed.) 
. In whatever way sweetbreads are dressed, they should first be well 
soaked in lukewarm water, then thrown into boiling water to blanch 
them, as it is called, and to render them firm. If lifted out after they 
have boiled from five to ten minutes, according to their size, and laid 
immediately into fresh spring water to cool, their colour will be the 
better preserved. They may then be gently stewed for three quarters 
of an hour in veal gravy, which, with the usual additions of cream, 
lemon, and egg-yolks, may be converted into a fricassee sauce for them 
when they are done; or they may be lifted from it, glazed, and served 
with good Spanish gravy ; or, the glazing being omitted, they may be 
sauced with the sharp Maitre d' 'Hotel sauce of page 99. They may 
also be simply floured, and roasted in a Dutch oven, being often basted 
with butter, and frequently turned. A full sized sweetbread, after 
having been blanched, will require quite three quarters of an hour to 
dress it. 

Blanched 5 to 10 minutes. Stewed | hour or more. 

sweetbread cutlets, (entree.) 

Boil the sweetbreads for half an hour in water, or veal broth, and 

when they are perfectly cold, cut them into slices of equal thickness, 

brush them with yolks of egg, and dip them into very fine bread-crumbs, 

seasoned with salt, cayenne, grated lemon-rind, and mace ; fry them in 



172 MODERN COOKERY. fcHAP. IX 

butter of a fine light brown, arrange thern in a dish, placing them high 
in the centre, and pour under them a gravy made in the pan, thickened 
with mushroom powder, and flavoured with lemon-juice; or, in lieu of 
this, sauce them with some rich brown gravy, to which a glass of sherry 
or Madeira has been added. When it can be done conveniently, take 
as many slices of a cold boiled tongue as there are sweetbread cutlets ; 
pare the rind from them, trim them into good shape, and dress them 
with the sweetbreads, after they have been egged and seasoned in the 
same way; place each cutlet upon a slice of tongue when they are 
dished. For variety, substitute croutons of fried bread, stamped out to 
the size of the cutlets, with a round or fluted paste or cake cutter. The 
crumb of a stale loaf, very evenly sliced, is best for the purpose. 

stewed calf's feet ; (cheap and good.) 
This is an excellent family dish, highly nutritious, and often very 
inexpensive, as the feet, during the summer, are usually sold at a low 
rate. Wash them with nicety, divide them at the joint, and split the 
claws; arrange them closely in a thick stewpan or saucepan, and pour 
in as much cold water as will cover them about half an inch : three 
pints will be sufficient for a couple of large feet. When broth or stock 
is at hand it is good economy to substitute it for the water, as, by this 
means, a portion of strong and well-flavoured jellied gravy will be 
obtained for general use, the full quantity not being needed as sauce for 
the feet. The whole preparation will be much improved by laying a 
thick slice of the lean of an unboiled ham, knuckle of bacon, hung 
beef, or the end of a dried tongue, at the bottom of the pan, before the 
other ingredients are added ; or, when none of these are at hand, by 
supplying the deficiency with a few bits of ste wing-beef or veal : the 
feet being of themselves insipid, will be much more palatable with one 
or the other of these additions. Throw in from half to three quarters 
of a teaspoonful of salt when they begin to boil, and, after the scum has 
been all cleared off", add a few branches of parsley, a little celery, one 
small onion or more, stuck with half a dozen cloves, a carrot or two, a 
large blade of mace, and twenty corns of whole pepper ; stew them 
softly until the flesh will part entirely from the bones ; take it from 
them; strain part of the gravy, and skim off all the fat, flavour it with 
catsup, or any other store sauce, and thicken it, when it boils, with 
arrow-root, or flour and butter ; put in the flesh of the feet, and serve 
the dish as soon as the whole is very hot. A glass of wine, a little 
lemon-juice, and a few forcemeat-balls, will convert this into a very 
superior stew ; a handful of mushroom-buttons also simmered in it for 
half an hour before it is dished will vary it agreeably. 

Calf's feet (large), 2; water, 3 pints; salt, ^ to £ teaspoonful; onions, 
1 to 3; cloves, 6; peppercorns, 20; mace, large blade; little celery 
and parsley; carrots, 1 or 2: stewed softly, 2^ to 3£ hours. Mush- 
room catsup, 1 tablespoonful ; flour, or arrow-root, 1 large teaspoonful ■ 
butter, 1 to 2 ozs. Cayenne, to taste. 

calf's liver fried. 
To render the liver firm when dressed, lay it into a deep dish, and 
pour over it half a pint of vinegar; turn it often in this, and let it lie 
for four and twenty hours, or longer even, if more convenient. Sliced 



CHAP. IX.] VEAL. 173 

onions, or eschalots, and branches of parsley, may be steeped witn it in 
the vinegar, when their flavour is relished ; but, in general, they would 
not, we think, be considered an improvement. Wash and wipe the 
liver very dry, slice it evenly, season it with pepper, salt, and savoury 
herbs shred extremely small, then flour and fry it in butter quickly of 
a fine light brown; lift it out and keep it very hot, while a gravy is 
made for it in the pan. Pour out the fat, throw in a small slice of fresh 
butter, and when it boils stir to it a half-teaspoonful of flour; add a sea- 
soning of pepper and salt ; about a quarter-pint of boiling water, and a 
little lemon-juice, Chili vinegar, or lemon-pickle; shake the pan well 
round, give the whole a boil; sauce the liver with it, and send it to 
table with or without a garnish of curled bacon. 

TO ROAST CALF'S LIVER. 

Take the whole or part of a fine white sound liver, and either lard it 
as a fricandeau upon the surface, or with large strips of highly-seasoned 
Aacon in the inside (see Larding, page 139) ; or should either of these 
/nodes be objected to, merely wrap it in a well-buttered paper, and 
roast it from an hour to an hour and a quarter, at a moderate distance 
from a clear fire, keeping it constantly basted. Remove the paper, and 
froth the liver well from ten to fifteen minutes before it is done. It 
should be served with a sauce of some piquancy, such as a poivrade, or 
brown eschalot, in addition to some good gravy. French cooks steep 
the liver over-night in vinegar, with a sliced onion and branches of 
savoury herbs laid over it ; this whitens and renders it firm. As an 
economical mode, some small bits of the liver may be trimmed off, 
floured, and lightly fried with a sliced onion, and stewed down for 
gravy in three quarters of a pint of water which has been poured into 
the pan, w T ith the addition of a few peppercorns, and a small bunch of 
herbs. A seasoning of salt must not be forgotten, and a little lemon- 
pickle, or juice, would generally be considered an improvement. 

1 to 1^ hour. 

BLANQUETTE OF VEAL OR LAMB, WITH MUSHROOMS. (ENTREE.) 

Slice very thin the white part of some cold veal, divide and trim it 
into scallops not larger than a shilling, and lay it into a clean saucepan 
or stewpan. Wipe with a bit of new flannel and a few grains of salt, 
from a quarter to half a pint of mushroom-buttons, and slice them into 
a little butter which just begins to simmer; stew them to it from 
twelve to fifteen minutes, without allowing them to take the slightest 
colour; then lift them out and lay them on the veal. Pour boiling to 
them a pint of sauce tournee (see page 93) ; let. the blanquette remain 
near but not close to the fire for awhile ; bring it nearer, heat it slowly, 
and when it is on the point of boiling mix a spoonful or two of the 
sauce from it with the well-beaten yolks of four fresh eggs ; stir them 
to the remainder; add the strained juice of half a small lemon; shake 
the saucepan above the fire until the sauce is just set, and serve the 
blanquette instantly. 

Cold veal, f lb. ; mushrooms, i to \ pint : stewed in H oz. butter, 12 
to 15 minutes. Sauce tournee, or thickened veal gravy, 1 pint; yolks 
of eggs, 4 ; lemon-juice, 1 tablespoonful. 

Obs. — Any white meat may be served en blanquette. The ir-ish- 



174 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. IX. 

rooms are not indispensable for it, but they are always a great improve- 
ment. White sauce substituted for the thickened veal gravy will at 
once convert this dish into an inexpensive fricassee. Mace, salt, and 
cayenne, must be added to either preparation, should it require sea- 
soning. 

MINCED VEAL. 

When there is neither gravy nor broth at hand, the bones and trim- 
mings of the meat must be boiled down to turnish what is required for 
the mince. As cold meat is very light in weight, a pound of the white 
part of the veal will be sufficient for a dish, and for this quantity a pint 
of gravy will be needed. Break down the bones of the joint well, add 
the trimmings of the meat, a small bunch of savoury herbs, a slice or 
two of carrot or of celery, a blade of mace, a few white peppercorns, 
and a bit or two of lean ham, boiled, or unboiled if it can be had, as 
either will improve the flavour of the mince. Pour to these a pint and 
a half of water, and stew them gently for a couple of hours ; then strain 
off the gravy, let it cool and clear it entirely from the fat. Cut the 
white part of the veal small with a very sharp knife, after all the 
gristle and brown edges have been trimmed away. Some persons like 
a portion of fat minced with it, others object to the addition altogether. 
Thicken the gravy with a teaspoonful and a half of flour smoothly mixed 
with a small slice of butter, season the veal with a saltspoonful or more 
of salt, and half as much white pepper and grated nutmeg-, or pounded 
mace; add the lightly-grated rind of half a small lemon; mix the whole 
well, put it into the gravy, and heat it thoroughly by the side of the 
fire without allowing it to boil ; serve it with pale-toasted sippets in 
and round the dish. A spoonful or two of cream is always an improve- 
ment to this mince. 

MINCED VEAL AND OYSTERS. 

The most elegant mode of preparing this dish is to mince about a 
pound of the whitest part of the inside of a cold roast fillet or loin of 
veal, to heat it without allowing it to boil, in a pint of rich white sauce, 
or bechamel, and to mix with it at the moment of serving three dozens 
of small oysters ready bearded, and plumped in their own strained 
liquor, which is also to be added to the mince ; the requisite quantity 
of salt, cayenne, and mace should be sprinkled over the veal before it is 
put into the sauce. Garnish the dish with pale fried sippets of bread, 
or with fleurons* of brioche, or of puff-paste. Nearly half a pint of 
mushrooms minced, and stewed white in a little butter, may be mixed 
with the veal instead of the oysters ; or should they be very small they 
may be added to it whole : from ten to twelve minutes will be sufficient 
to make thern tender. Balls of delicately fried oyster-forcemeat laid 
round the dish will give another good variety of it. 

Veal minced, 1 lb. ; white sauce, 1 pint; oysters, 3 dozens, with their 
liquor ; or mushrooms, ^ pint, stewed in butter 10 to 12 minutes. 

VEAL-SYDNEY. (GOOD.) 

Pour boiling on an ounce and a half of fine bread-crumbs nearly 
half a pint of good veal stock or gravy, and let them stand till cool; 
mix with them then, two ounces of beet-suet shred very small, half a 

* Fleurons, flowers, or flower-like figures, cut out with tin shapes. 



CHAP. IX.] VEAL. 175 

pound of cold roast veal carefully trimmed from the brown edges, skin, 
and fat, and finely minced ; the grated rind of half a lemon, nearly a 
teaspoonful of salt, a little cayenne, the third of a teaspoonful of mace 
or nutmeg, and four well-beaten eggs. Whisk up the whole well to- 
gether, put it into a buttered dish, and bake it from three quarters of an 
hour to an hour. Cream may be used instead of gravy when more 
convenient, but this last will give the better flavour. A little clarified 
butter put into the dish before the other ingredients are poured in will 
be an improvement. 

Bread-crumbs, l^oz. ; gravy or cream, nearly | pint; beef-suet, 2 
ozs. ; cold veal, £ lb.; rind of £ lemon; salt, small teaspoonful; third 
as much mace and nutmeg ; little cayenne ; eggs, 4 large or 5 small : 
| to 1 hour. 

FRICASSEED VEAL. 

Divide into small, thick, handsome slices of equal size, about a couple 
of pounds of veal, quite free from fat, bone, and skin; dissolve a couple 
of ounces of butter in a wide stewpan, and just as it begins to boil lay 
in the veal, and shake it over the fire until it is quite firm on both sides ; 
but do not allow it to take the slightest colour. Stir in a tablespoonful 
of flour, and when it is well mixed with the cutlets, pour gradually to 
them, shaking the pan often, sufficient boiling veal gravy to almost 
cover them. Stew them gently from fifty to sixty minutes, or longer 
should they not be perfectly tender. Add a flavouring of mace, some 
salt, a quarter-pint of rich cream, a couple of egg-yolks, and a little 
lemon-juice, observing, when the last are added, the directions given 
for a blanquette of veal, page 173. Strips of lemon-rind can be stewed 
in the gravy at pleasure. Two or three dozens of mushroom-buttons, 
added twenty minutes before it is served, will much improve this 
fricassee. 



CHAPTER X. 
MUTTON. 



No. 

1. Leg. 

2. Best End of Loin. 

3. Chump End of Loin. 

4. Neck, Best Em 

5. Neck, Scrag End 




No. 

6. Shoulder. 

7. Breast. 

A Saddle is the Two Loins. 
A Chine, the Two Necks. 



TO CHOOSE MUTTON. 

The best mutton is small-boned, plump, finely-grained, and short 
legged ; the lean of a dark, rather than of a bright hue, and the fat 



170 MODERN COOKERY. £cHAP. X. 

white and clear: when this is yellow, the meat is rank, and of bad 
quality. Mutton is not considered by experienced judges to be in per- 
fection until it is nearly or quite five years old ; but to avoid the addi- 
tional expense of feeding" the animal so long, it is commonly brought 
into the market at three years old. The les - and the loin are the supe- 
rior joints ; and the preference would probably be given more frequently 
to the latter, but for the superabundance of its fat, which renders it a 
not very economical dish. The haunch consists of the leg and the part 
of the loin adjoining it ; the saddle, of the two loins together, or of the 
undivided back of the sheep : these last are always roasted, and are 
served usually at good tables, or for company-dinners, instead of the 
smaller joints. The shoulder, dressed in the ordinary way, is not very 
highly esteemed, but when boned, rolled, and filled with forcemeat, it 
is of more presentable appearance, and to many tastes, far better eating; 
though some persons prefer it in its natural form, accompanied by stewed 
onions. It is occasionally boiled or stewed, and covered with rich onion 
sauce. The neck is sometimes roasted, but it is more generally boiled ; 
the scrag, or that part of it which joins the head, is seldom used for any 
other purpose than making broth, and should be taken off before the 
joint is dressed. Cutlets from the thick end of the loin are commonly 
preferred to any others, but they are frequently taken likewise from the 
best end of the neck (sometimes called the back-ribs) and from the mid- 
dle of the leg. Mutton kidneys are dressed in various ways, and are 
excellent in many. The trotters and the head of a sheep may be con- 
verted into very good dishes, but they are scarcely worth the trouble 
which is required to render them palatable. The loin and the leg are 
occasionally cured and smoked like hams or bacon. 

TO ROAST A HAUNCH OF MUTTON. 

This joint should be well kept, and when the larder-accommodations 
of a house are not good, the butcher should be requested to hang it the 
the proper time. Roast it carefully at a large sound fire, and let it 
remain at a considerable distance for at least a couple of hours; then 
draw it nearer, but never sufficiently so to burn or injure the fat. Keep 
it constantly basted ; flour it soon after it is laid to the fire, instead of 
frothing it, as this latter mode is not generally relished, though fashion 
is in its favour. In from three and a half to four hours, the haunch will 
be done, and it will require something less of time when not kept back 
at first, as we have advised ; but if roasted entirely on the plan men- 
tioned at page 132, it will be much finer than in the usual way. Serve 
it with a good Espagnole, or with plain mutton-gravy and currant-jelly. 
This joint, when the meat is of very fine quality, may be dressed and 
served exactly like venison. 

3|- to 4 hours. 5 hours or more by the slow method. 

ROAST SADDLE OF MUTTON. 

This is an excellent joint, though not considered a very economical 
one. It is usual for the butcher to raise the skin from it before it is 
sent in, and to skewer it on again, that in the roasting the juices of the 
meat may bf better preserved, and the fat prevented from taking too 
much colour, as this should be only slightly browned. In something 
less than half an hour before the mutton is done, remove the skin, and 



CHAP. X.] MUTTON. 177 

flour the joint lightly after having basted it well. Our own great objec- 
tion to frothed meat would lead us to recommend that the skin should 
be taken off half an hour earlier, and that the joint should be kept at 
sufficient distance from the fire to prevent the possibility of the fat being 
burned ; and that something more of time should be allowed for the 
roasting. With constant basting, great care, and good management, 
the cook may always ensure the proper appearance of this, or of any 
other joint (except, perhaps, of a haunch of venison) without having' 
recourse to papering or pasting, or even to replacing the skin ; but when 
unremitted attention cannot be given to this one part of the dinner, it 
is advisable to take all precautions that can secure it from being spoiled. 
2$ to 2| hours. More 'tfvery large. 

TO ROAST A LEG OF MUTTON. 

In a cool and airy larder, a leg of mutton will hang many days with 
advantage, if the kernel be taken out, and the flap wiped very dry when 
it is first brought in ; and it is never tender when freshly killed : in warm 
weather it should be well dredged with pepper to preserve it from the 
flies. If washed before it is put upon the spit, it should be wiped as dry 
as possible afterwards, and well floured soon after it is laid to the fire. 
When the excellence of the joint is more regarded than the expense of 
fuel, it should be roasted by what we have denominated the slow 
method ; that is to say, it should be kept at a considerable distance 
from the fire, and remain at it four hours instead of two : it may be 
drawn nearer for the last twenty or thirty minutes, to give it colour. 
The gravy will flow from it in great abundance when it is cut, and the 
meat will be very superior to that roasted in the usual way. When 
this plan is not pursued, the mutton should still be kept quite a foot 
from the fire until it is heated through, and never brought sufficiently 
near to scorch or to harden any part. It should be constantly basted 
with its own fat, for if this be neglected, all other precautions will fail 
to ensure a good roast; and after it is dished, a little fine salt should be 
sprinkled lightly on it, and a spoonful or two of boiling water ladled 
over. This is the most palatable mode of serving it, but it may be 
frothed when it is preferred so, though we would rather recommend that 
the flour should be dredged on in the first instance, as it then prevents 
the juices of the meat from escaping, and forms a savoury coating to it; 
while the raw taste which it so often retains with mere frothing is to 
many eaters especially objectionable. 

Leg of mutton, 7 to 8 lbs. ; slow method 4 hours, common method 1| 
to 2 hours. 

SUPERIOR RECEIPT FOR ROAST LEG OF MUTTON. 

Cover the joint well with cold water, bring it gradually to boil, and 
let it simmer gently for half an hour; then lift it out, put it immediately 
on to the spit, and roast it from an hour and a quarter to an hour and a 
half, according to its weight. This mode of dressing the joint renders 
it remarkably juicy and tender; but there must be no delay in putting 
it on the spit after it is lifted from the water ; it may be garnished with 
roast tomatas. 

Boiled, Jf hour; roast, 1J to 1^ hour. 

LEG OF MUTTON BONED AND FORCED. 

Turn the under-side of the mutton upwards, and with a sharp knifo 
11 



178 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. X. 

cut through the middle of the skin from the knuckle to the first joint, 
and raise it from the flesh on the side along which the bone runs, until 
the knife is just above it, then cut through the flesh down to the bone ; 
work the knife round it in every part till you reach the socket; next 
remove the flat bone from the large end of the joint, and pass the knife 
freely round the remaining one, as it is not needful to take it out clear 
of the meat; when you again reach the middle joint, loosen the skin 
round it with great care, and the two bones can then be drawn out 
without being divided. This being done, fill the cavities with the force- 
meat, No. 1. (page 122), adding to it a somewhat high seasoning of 
eschalot, garlic, or onion ; or cut out with the bone, nearly a pound of 
the inside of the mutton, chop it fine with six ounces of delicate striped 
bacon, and mix with it thoroughly three-quarters of an ounce of pars- 
ley, and half as much of thyme and winter savory, all minced extremely 
small; a half teaspoonful of pepper (or a third as much of cayenne); 
the same of mace, salt, and nutmeg, and either the grated rind of a 
small lemon, or four eschalots finely shred. When the lower part of 
the leg is filled, sew the skin neatly together where it has been cut 
open, and tie the knuckle round tightly, to prevent the escape of the 
gravy. Replace the flat bone at the large end, and with a long needle 
and twine, draw the edges of the meat together over it. If it can be 
done conveniently, it is better to roast the mutton thus prepared in a 
cradle spit or upon a hanging or bottle jack, with the knuckle down- 
wards. Place it at first far from the fire, and keep it constantly basted. 
It will require nearly or quite three hours roasting. Remove the twine 
before it is served, and send it very hot to table with some rich brown 
gravy ; or it may be put into a braising-pan and stewed gently four or 
five hours. 

MOCK VENISON. 

Hang a plump and finely-grained leg of mutton in a cool place, for 
as many days as it can possibly be kept without becoming altogether 
uneatable. Lay it on a dish, pour over, and rub well into it, about half 
a small cupful of pyroligneous aeid, and let it remain ten minutes. 
Wash it very thoroughly, cut otT the knuckle, and trim away the flap, 
and any part that may continue very offensive, or take a few inches 
from either end of the joint; then lay it into a close-shutting stewpot, 
or thick iron saucepan of its own size, with no other liquid than the 
drops of water which adhere to it, and simmer it over a very slow fire, 
from four and a half to five hours, turning it several times, that it may 
be equally done. Give it no seasoning beyond pepper and salt. Should 
the gravy be too much reduced, add two spoonsful of boiling water, or 
of mutton gravy. Send the meat to table in its own juices, with cur- 
rant jelly, or sharp venison sauce apart. We owe this receipt entirely 
to accident; for, wishing to have proof of the anti- putrescent qualities 
of the pyroligneous acid, we had it applied to a leg of mutton which 
had been kept too long, and which was dressed in the way we have 
described. When brought to table, its resemblance to venison, both in 
appearance and flavour, was remarkable; and several persons partook 
of it hashed on the following day, and were all perfectly unconscious 
that they were not really eating venison; in the latter instance, it was 
served in rich gravy made in part of hare ; a glass of port wine, a little 
compound catsup, and a thickening of rice flour were added. The 



CHAP. X.] MUTTON. 179 

meat, of course, was only heated through, and not allowed to boil. On 
a second trial we found it an improvement to touch the mutton in every 
part with a feather dipped in the acid, as soon as it gave evidence of 
having been sufficiently kept, and then to let it hang three or four days 
longer: it was again washed with the acid, and afterwards with cold 
water before it was dressed. 

to boil a leg of mutton; {an excellent receipt.) 
Trim into handsome form a well-kept, but perfectly sweet leg of 
mutton, of middling weight; wash, but do not soak it; lay it into a 
vessel as nearly of its size as convenient, and pour in rather more than 
sufficient cold water to cover it ; set it over a good fire, and when it 
begins to boil, take off the scum, and continue to do so until no more 
appears ; throw in a tablespoonful of salt (after the first skimming), 
which will assist to bring it to the surface, and as soon as the liquor is 
clear, add two moderate-sized onions, stuck with a dozen cloves, a large 
faggot of parsley, thyme, and savory, and four or five l^rge carrots, 
and half an hour afterwards, as many turnips. Draw the pan to the 
side of the fire, and let the mutton be simmered gently for two hours 
and a half, from the time of its first beginning to boil. Serve it with 
caper, brown cucumber, or oyster sauce. If stewed softly, as we have 
directed, the mutton will be found excellent dressed thus ; otherwise, it 
will but resemble the unpalatable and ragged-looking joints of fast- 
boiled meat, so constantly sent to table by common English cooks. 
Any undressed bones of veal, mutton, or beef, boiled with the joint, 
will improve it much, and the liauor will then make excellent soup or 
bouillon. 

2 to 2\ hours. 

COLD ROAST LEG OF MUTTON. 

When only a few slices have been cut from the middle of the joint, 
it will still afford a fillet of tolerable size, which, dressed in the follow- 
ing manner, will make a dish of better appearance and savour than a 
common hash or mince. Take off as much of the large end of the leg, 
quite through, as will render that side of the fillet perfectly flat ; cut 
also evenly through the joint, where it has been carved ; then remove 
the bone from the fillet, and replace it with veal forcemeat (No. 1, page 
122) ; put the meat, with the bones, knuckle, and trimmings, into°a 
stewpot, or stout saucepan adapted to its size, and just cover it with 
water, or with broth in preference, when any stock is at hand ; as soon 
as it boils, add a couple of onions, a bunch of parsley, two or even three 
bay-leaves, four or five carrots, and as many turnips {plenty of vege- 
tables, in fact), and simmer the whole gently for nearly, or quite a 
couple of hours. Thickening, spice, or store-sauce, can be added to the 
gravy at will, before the meat is served, which it should be with the 
vegetables round it. 

A FILLET OF MUTTON. 

Cut some inches from either end of a large and well-kept leg of 
mutton, and leave the fillet shaped like one of veal. Remove the bone, 
and fill the cavity 'with forcemeat (No. 1, page 122), which may be 
flavoured with a little minced onion, when its flavour is liked : more 
forcemeat may be added by detaching the skin sufficiently on the flap 
side to admit it. When thus prepared, the fillet may be floured, and 



180 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. X. 

roasted, served with currant-jelly and brown gravy, or with only melted 
butter poured over it; or it may be stewed gently for nearly or quite 
four hours, in a pint of gravy or water, after having been floured and 
browned all over in a couple of ounces of butter ; it must then be turned 
every hour, that it may be equally done. Two or three small onions, a 
faggot of herbs, a couple of carrots sliced, four or five cloves, and twenty 
whole peppercorns can be added at will. 
Roasted 2 hours, or stewed 4 hours. 

TO ROAST A LOIN OF MUTTON. 

The flesh of the loin of mutton is superior to that of the leg, when 
roasted ; but to the frugal housekeeper this consideration is usually 
overbalanced by the great weight of fat attached to it; this, however, 
when economy is more considered than appearance, may be pared off 
and melted down for various kitchen uses, or finely chopped, and sub- 
stituted for suet in making hot pie or pudding crust. When thus re- 
duced in si^e, the mutton will be soon roasted. If it is to be dressed in 
the usual way, the butcher should be desired to take off the skin ; care 
should be taken to preserve the fat from being ever so slightly burned; 
it should be managed, indeed, in the same manner as the saddle, in 
every respect, and carved also in the same way, that is to say, the meat 
should be cut out in slices the whole length of the back-bone, and close 
to it. 

Without the fat, 1 to 1^ hour; with, l£ to 1J hour. 

TO DRESS A LOIN OF MUTTON LIKE VENISON. 

Skin and bone a loin of mutton, and lay it into a stewpan, or braising- 
pan, with a pint of water, a large onion stuck with a dozen cloves, half 
a pint of port wine and a spoonful of vinegar; add, when it boils, a small 
faggot of thyme and parsley, and some pepper and salt: let it stew 
three hours, and turn it often. Make some gravy of the bones, and add 
it at intervals to the mutton when required. 

This receipt comes to us so strongly recommended by persons who 
have partaken frequently of the dish, that we have not thought it need- 
ful to prove it ourselves. 

3 hours. 

TO ROAST A SHOULDER OF MUTTON. 

Flour it w r ell, and baste it constantly with its own dripping; do not 
place it close enough to the fire for the fat to be in the slightest degree 
burned, or even too deeply browned. An hour and a half will roast it, 
if it be of moderate size. Stewed onions are often sent to table with it. 
A shoulder of mutton is sometimes boiled, and smothered with onion 
sauce. 

1| hour. 

SPICED SHOULDER OF MUTTON. 

Bone the joint, and rub it, if large, with four ounces of the coarsest 
sugar (or with three, if it be small), well mixed with a dessertspoonful 
of pounded cloves, half that quantity of pepper and of mace, and a fourth 
part as much of ginger : the following day add four ounces of salt. Keep 
the mutton turned, and rubbed occasionally with the pickle from eight 
to ten days ; then roll it up tight, bind it with a fillet, and stew it gently 
for four hours in a pint and a half of beef broth, or put into the stewpan 



CHAP. X.] MUTTON. 181 

with it a pound and a half of neck of beef, three half pints of water, one 
large mild onion, two carrots, two turnips, and a large faggot of herbs. 
When the mutton is perfectly tender, serve it with some of its own 
gravy, thickened and highly flavoured with lemon-pickle, or with any 
other acid sauce; or send it to table with a good sauce piquante. 

Mutton, 8 to 9 lbs. ; sugar, 4 ozs. ; cloves, in powder, 1 dessertspoon- 
ful ; mace, and pepper, 1 teaspoonful each; ginger, ^ teaspoonful; salt, 
4 ozs. : 8 to 10 days. Beef broth, 11 pint : 4 hours. 

Obs. — For variety, the inside of the mutton may be thickly strewed 
with minced herbs before it is rolled. 

FORCED SHOULDER OF MUTTON. 

Cut oft all the flesh from the inside of the joint down to the blade- 
bone, and reserve it for a separate dish. It may be lightly browned 
with some turnips or carrots, or both, and made into a small harrico, or 
stewed simply in its own gravy, or it will make in part, a pudding or a 
pie. Bone the mutton (see page 140), flatten it on a table, lay over the 
inside some thin and neatly-trimmed slices of striped bacon, and spread 
over them some good veal forcemeat (No. 1, page 122) to within an 
inch of the outer edge ; roll the joint up tightly towards the knuckle 
(of which the bone may be left in or not, at pleasure), secure it well 
with tape or twine, and stew it gently in good gravy, from four hours 
to four and a half. 

4 to 4^ hours. 

Obs. — In France it is usual to substitute sausage-meat for the bacon 
and veal stuffing in this dish. 

MUTTON CUTLETS STEWED IN THEIR OWN GRAVY; (good.) 

Trim the fat entirely from some cutlets taken from the loin ; just dip 
them into cold water, dredge them moderately with pepper, and plenti- 
fully on both sides with flour; rinse a thick iron saucepan with spring- 
water, and leave a couple of tablespoonsful in it; arrange the cutlets in 
one flat layer, if it can be done conveniently, and place them over a 
very gentle fire ; throw in a little salt when they begin to stew, and let 
them simmer as softly as possible, but without ceasing, from an hour 
and a quarter to an hour and a half. If dressed with great care, which 
they require, they will be equally tender, easy of digestion, and nutri- 
tious; and being at the same time free from everything which can disa- 
gree with the most delicate stomach, the receipt will be found a valua- 
ble one for invalids. The mutton should be of good quality, but the 
excellence of the dish mainly depends on its being most gently stewed; 
for if allowed to boil quickly all the gravy will be dried up, and the meat 
will be unfit for table. The cutlets must be turned when they are half 
done: a couple of spoonsful of water or gravy may be added to them 
should they not yield sufficient moisture, but this is rarely needful. 

1^ to l£ hour. 

TO BROIL MUTTON CUTLETS. (ENTREE.) 

These may be taken from the loin, or the best end of the neck, but 
the former are generally preferred. Trim off a portion of the fat, or the 
whole of it, unless it be liked; pepper the cutlets, heat the gridiron, rub 
it with a bit of the mutton suet, broil them over a brisk fire, and turn 
them often until they are done; this, for the generality of eaters, will be 



182 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. X. 

in about eight minutes if they are not more than half an inch thick, 
which they should not be. French cooks season them with pepper and 
salt, and give them a light coating of dissolved butter or of oil, before 
they are laid to the fire, and we have found the cutlets so managed 
extremely good. 

Lightly broiled, 7 to 8 minutes. Well done, 10 minutes. 

06s. — A cold Maitre d'Hotel sauce may be laid under the cutlets 
when they are dished ; or they may be served quite dry, or with brown 
gravy ; or when none is at hand, with good melted butter seasoned with 
mushroom catsup, cayenne, and Chili vinegar, or lemon-juice. 

CHINA CHILO. 

Mince a pound of an undressed loin or leg of mutton, with or without 
a portion of its fat, mix with it two or three young lettuces shred small, 
a pint of young peas, a teaspoonful of salt, half as much pepper, four 
tablespoonsful of water, from two to three ounces of good butter, and, 
if the flavour be liked, a few green onions minced. Keep the whole 
well stirred with a fork, over a clear and gentle fire until it is quite hot, 
then place it closely covered by the side of the stove, or on a high trevet, 
that it may stew as softly as possible for a couple of hours. One or 
even two half-grown cucumbers, cut small by scoring the ends deeply 
as they are sliced, or a quarter-pint of minced mushrooms may be added 
with good effect; or a dessertspoonful of currie-powder and a large 
chopped onion. A dish of boiled rice should be sent to table with it. 

Mutton, 1 pint; green peas, 1 pint; young lettuces, 2; salt, 1 tea- 
spoonful ; pepper, ^ teaspoonful; water, 4 tablespoonsful; butter, 2 to 3 
ozs. : 2 hours. Varieties: cucumbers, 2; or mushrooms minced, £ pint; 
or currie-powder, 1 dessertspoonful, and 1 large onion. 

A GOOD FAMILY STEW OF MUTTON. 

Put into a broad stewpan or saucepan a flat layer of mutton chops, 
freed entirely from fat and from the greater portion of the bone, then 
just dipped into cold water, seasoned with pepper, and lightly dredged 
with flour; on these put a layer of mild turnips sliced half an inch 
thick, and divided into squares ; then some carrots of the same thick- 
ness, with a seasoning of salt and black pepper between them ; next, 
another layer of chops, then plenty of vegetables, and as much weak 
broth or cold water as will barely cover the whole ; bring them slowly 
to a boil, and let them just simmer from two to three hours, according 
to the quantity. One or two minced onions may be strewed between 
the other vegetables when their flavour is liked. The savour of the 
dish will be increased by browning the chops in a little butter before 
they are stewed, and still more so by frying the vegetables lightly as 
well, before they are added to it. A head or two of celery would to 
many tastes improve the flavour of the whole. In summer, cucumber, 
green onions, shred lettuces, and green peas may be substituted for the 
winter vegetables. 

Mutton^ free from fat. 2h lbs. ; turnips, 3 lbs. ; carrots, 3 lbs. ; celery 
(if added), 2 small heads : 2 to 3 hours. 

Obs. — The fat and trimmings of the mutton used for this and for 
other dishes into which only the lean is admissible may be turned to 
advantage by cutting the whole up rather small, and then boiling it in 



CHAP. X.] MUTTON. 183 

a quart of water to the pound, with a little spice, a bunch of herbs and 
some salt, until the fat is nearly dissolved: the liquid will then, if 
strained off and left until cold, make tolerable broth, and the cake of 
fat which is on the top, if again just melted and poured free of sediment 
into small pans, will serve excellently for common pies and for frying 
kitchen dinners. Less water will of course produce broth of better 
quality, and the addition of a small quantity of fresh meat or bones will 
render it very good. 

AN IRISH STEW. 

Take a couple of pounds of small thick mutton cutlets with or with- 
out fat according to the taste of the persons to whom the stew is to be 
served ; take also four pounds of good potatoes, weighed after they are 
pared, slice them thick, and put a portion of them, in a fiat layer, into 
a large thick saucepan or stewpan ; season the mutton well with pep- 
per, and place some of it on tiie potatoes, cover it with another layer, 
and proceed in the same manner with all, reserving plenty of the vege- 
table for the top ; pour in three quarters of a pint of cold water, and 
add, when the stew begins to boil, an ounce of salt ; let it simmer 
gently for two hours, and serve it very hot. When the addition of 
onion is liked, strew in two or three minced ones with the potatoes. 

Mutton cutlets, 2 lbs. ; potatoes, 4 lbs. ; pepper, £ oz. ; salt, 1 oz. ; 
water, f pint: 2 hours. 

Obs.— For a real Irish stew the potatoes should be boiled to a mash : 
an additional quarter-hour may be necessary for the full quantity here, 
but for half of it two hours are quite sufficient. 

CUTLETS OF COLD MUTTON. 

Trim into well-shaped cutlets, which should not be very thin, the re- 
mains of a roast loin or neck of mutton, or of a quite under-dressed 
stewed or boiled joint; dip them into egg and well-seasoned bread- 
crumbs, and broil or fry them over a quick fire that they may be browned 
and heated through without being too much done. This is a very good 
mode of serving a half-roasted loin or neck. When the cutlets are 
broiled they should be dipped into, or sprinkled thickly with butter just 
dissolved, or they will be exceedingly dry ; a few additional crumbs 
should be made to adhere to them after they are moistened with this. 

MUTTON KIDNEYS A LA FRANCAISE. (ENTREE.) 

Skin six or eight fine fresh mutton kidneys, and, without opening 
them, remove the fat; slice them rather thin, strew over them a large 
dessertspoonful of minced herbs, of which two-thirds should be parsley 
and the remainder thyme, with a tolerable seasoning of pepper or cay- 
enne, and some fine salt. Melt two ounces of butter in a frying-pan, 
put in the kidneys and brown them quickly on both sides ; when nearly 
done, stir amongst them a dessertspoonful of flour, and shake them well 
in the pan; pour in the third of a pint of gravy (or of hot water in 
default of this), the juice of half a lemon, and as much of Harvey's 
sauce, or of mushroom catsup, as will flavour the whole pleasantly ; 
bring these to the' point of boiling, and pour them into a dish garnished 
with fried sippets, or lift out the kidneys first, give the sauce a boil and 
pour it on them. We generally have the store-sauce of page 147 (see 
English stew) used to flavour this dish in preference to simple catsup. 



184 MODERN COOKERY. [dlAP. X. 

In France, a couple of glasses of champagne, or, for variety, of claret, 
are frequently added to the gravy ; one of port wine can be substituted 
for either of these. A dessertspoonful of minced eschalots may be 
strewed over the kidneys with the herbs; or two dozens of very small 
ones, previously stewed till tender in fresh butter over a gentle fire, 
may be added after they are dished. This is a very excellent and 
approved receipt. 
Fried 6 minutes. 

BROILED MUTTON KIDNEYS. 

Split them open lengthwise without dividing them ; strip off the skin 
and fat ; run a fine skewer through the points and across the back of 
the kidneys to keep them flat while broiling ; season them with pepper 
or cayenne ; lay them over a clear brisk fire, with the cut sides towards 
it; turn them in from four to five minutes; and in as many more dish, 
and serve them quickly, with or without a cold Maitre d'Hotel sauce 
under them. French cooks season them with pepper and fine salt, and 
brush a very small quantity of oil, or clarified butter over them before 
they are broiled : we think this an improvement. 

8 to 10 minutes. 

OXFORD RECEIPT FOR MUTTON KIDNEYS. (BREAKFAST DISH, OR 
ENTREE.) 

Fry gently, in a little good butter, a dozen croutons (slices of bread, 
of uniform shape and size, trimmed free from crust,) cut half an inch 
thick, about two inches and a half wide, and from three to four in length : 
lift them out and keep them hot. Split quite asunder six fine fresh kid- 
neys, after having freed them from the skin and fat; season them with 
fine salt and cayenne; arrange them evenly in a clean frying-pan, and 
pour some clarified butter over them. Fry them over a somewhat brisK 
fire ; dish each half upon a crouton ; make a sauce in the pan as fbr 
veal cutlets, but use gravy for it instead of water, should it be at hand ; 
add a little wine or catsup ; pour it round the croutons, and serve the 
kidneys instantly. 

10 minutes. 

TO ROAST A FORE QUARTER OF LAMB. 

This should be laid to a clear brisk fire, and carefully and plentifully 
basted from the time of its becoming warm until it is ready for table ; 
but though it requires quick roasting, it must never be placed sufficiently 
near the fire to endanger the fat, which is very liable to catch or burn. 
When the joint is served, the shoulder should be separated from the 
ribs with a sharp knife, and a small slice of fresh butter, a little cay- 
enne, and a squeeze of lemon-juice should be laid between them; if the 
cook be an expert carver, this had better be done before the lamb is 
sent to table. The cold Maitre d'Hotel sauce of page 100, may be sub- 
stituted for the usual ingredients, the parsley being omitted or not, 
according to the taste. Serve good mint sauce, and a fresh salad with 
this roast. 

A leg, shouldei, or loin of lamb should be cooked by the same direc- 
tions as the quarter, a difference only being made in the time allowed 
for each. 

Fore-quarter of lamb, If to 2 hours. Leg, \h hour (less if very 
small); loin, 1 to l\ hour. 



CHAP. X.] LAMB. 185 

Obs. — The time will vary a little, of course, from the difference in 
the weather, and in the strength of the fire. Lamb should always be 
toell roasted. 

SADDLE OF LAMB. 

This is an exceedingly nice joint for a small party. It should be 
roasted at a brisk fire, and kept constantly basted with its own dripping : 
it will require from an hour and three quarters to two hours roasting. 
Send it to table with mint sauce, and if convenient, with brown cucum- 
ber sauce also, and a salad. 

l£ to 2 hours. 

Obs. — The following will be found an excellent receipt for mint 
sauce : — With three heaped tablespoonsful of finely-chopped young mint, 
mix two of pounded and sifted sugar, and six of the best vinegar: stir it 
until the sugar is dissolved. 

ROAST LOIN OF LAMB. 

Place it at a moderate distance from a clear fire, baste it frequently, 
froth it when nearly done, and serve it with the same sauces as the pre- 
ceding joints. A loin of lamb may be boiled and sent to table with 
white cucumber, mushroom, common white sauce, or parsley and butter. 

1 to 1^ hour. 

STEWED LEG OF LAMB WITH WHITE SAUCE. (ENTREE.) 

Choose a small plump leg of lamb, not much exceeding five pounds 
in weight ; put it into a vessel nearly of its size, with a few trimmings, 
or a bone or two of undressed veal if at hand ; cover it with cold water, 
bring it slowly to a boil, clear off the scum with great care when it is 
first thrown to the surface, and when it has all been skimmed off, add a 
bunch of thyme and parsley, and two carrots of moderate size. Let the 
lamb simmer only, but without ceasing, for an hour and a quarter; 
serve it covered with bechamel, or rich English white sauce, and send 
a boiled tongue to table with it, and some of the sauce in a tureen. 

1^ hour. 

LOIN OF LAMB STEWED IN BUTTER. (ENTREE.) 

Wash the joint, and wipe it very dry ; skewer down the flap, and lay 
it into a close-shutting and thick stewpan, or saucepan, in which three 
ounces of good butter have been just dissolved, but not allowed to boil; 
let it simmer slowly over a very gentle fire for two hours and a quarter, 
and turn it when it is rather more than half done. Lift it out, skim 
and pour the gravy over it; send brown asparagus, cucumber, or sou- 
bise sauce to table with it ; or brown gravy, mint sauce, and a salad. 

2£ hours. 

LAMB OR MUTTON CUTLETS, WITH SOUBISE SAUCE. (ENTREE.) 

The best end of two necks of either will be required for a handsome 
dish. Cut them thin with one bone to each ; trim off the fat and all 
the skin, scrape the bones very clean that they may look white, and 
season the cutlets with salt and white pepper ; brush them with egg, 
dip them into very fine bread-crumbs, then into clarified butter, and 
again into the bread-crumbs, which should be flattened evenly upon 
them, and broil them over a very clear and brisk fire, or fry them in a 
little good butter of a fine clear brown ; press them in two sheets of 
white blotting-paper to extract the grease, and dish them on end. with 



186 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. X. 

the points meeting at the top ; or place them one over the other in a 
chain, and pour into the centre a soubise, or a puree of cucumbers. 
Brown cucumber sauce, or a rich gravy, may be substituted for either 
of these in serving a quite simple dinner. Cutlets of the loin may be 
dressed in the same way, after being dipped into crumbs of bread mixed 
with a full seasoning of minced herbs, and a small quantity of eschalot, 
when its flavour is liked. The small flat bone at the end of the cutlets 
should be taken off, to give them a very good appearance. 

LAMB CUTLETS IN THEIR OWN GRAVY. 

Follow exactly the receipt for mutton cutlets dressed in the same 
way, but allow for those of lamb fifteen or twenty minutes less of time, 
and an additional spoonful of liquid. 

CUTLETS OF COLD LAMB. 

See the receipt for Cutlets of Cold Mutton, page 183. 



CHAPTER XI. 
PORK. 



No. 


1 * No. 


1. The Spare Rib. 


4. Fore Loin. 


2. Hand. 


5. Hind Loin. 


3. Belly, or Spring. 


6. Leg. 



TO CHOOSE PORK. 

This meat is so proverbially, and we believe even dangerously un- 
wholesome when ill fed, or in any degree diseased, that its quality 
should be closely examined before it is purchased. When not home- 
fatted, it should be bought if possible of some respectable farmer, or 
miller, unless the butcher who supplies it can be perfectly relied on. 
Both the fat and lean should be very white, and the latter finely grained; 
the rind should be thin, smooth, and cool to the touch; if it be clammy, 
the pork is stale, and should be at once rejected ; it ought also to be 
scrupulously avoided when the fat, instead of being quite clear of all 
blemish, is full of small kernels, which are indicative of disease. The 
manner of cutting up the pork varies in different counties, and also 
according to the purposes for which it is intended. The legs are either 
made into hams, or slightly salted for a few days and boiled ; they are 
also sometimes roasted when the pork is not large nor coarse, with a 



CHAP. XI.] PORK. 187 

savoury forcemeat inserted between the skin and flesh of the knuckle. 
The part of the shoulder called the hand is also occasionally pickled in 
the same way as hams and bacon, or it may be salted and boiled, but it 
is too sinewy for roasting - . After these and the head have been taken 
off, the remainder, without further division than being 1 split down the 
back, may be converted into whole sides, or flitches, as they are usually 
called, of bacon ; but when the meat is large, and required in part for 
various other purposes, a chine may be taken out, and the fat pared off 
the bones of the ribs and loins for bacon ; the thin part of the body con- 
verted into pickled pork, and the ribs and other bones roasted, or made 
into pies or sausages. The feet, which are generally salted down for 
immediate use, are excellent if laid for two or three weeks into the same 
pickle as the hams, then well covered with cold water, and slowly boiled 
until tender. 

The loins of young and delicate pork are roasted with the skin on ; 
and this is scored in regular stripes of about a quarter-inch wide with 
the point of a sharp knife, before the joints are laid to the fire. The 
skin of the leg also is just cut through in the same manner. This is 
done to prevent its blistering, and to render it more easy to carve, as 
the skin {or crackling) becomes so crisp and hard in the cooking, that 
it is otherwise sometimes difficult to divide it. 

To be at any time fit for table, pork must be perfectly sweet, and 
thoroughly cooked ; great attention also should be given to it when it is 
in pickle, for if any part of it be long exposed to the air, without being 
turned into, or well and frequently basted with the brine, it will often 
become tainted during the process of curing it. 

TO MELT LARD. 

Strip the skin from the inside fat of a freshly killed and well-fed 
pig ; slice it small and thin ; put it into a new or well-scalded jar, set 
it into a pan of boiling water, and let it simmer over a clear fire. As 
it dissolves, strain it into small stone jars, or deep earthen pans, and 
when perfectly cold, tie over it the skin that was cleared from the lard, 
or bladders which have been thoroughly washed and wiped very dry. 
Lard thus prepared is extremely pure in flavour, and keeps perfectly 
well, if stored in a cool place ; it may be used with advantage in mak- 
ing pastry, as well as for frying fish, and for various other purposes. It 
is better to keep the last drainings of the fat apart from that which is 
first poured off, as it will not be quite so fine in quality. 

TO PRESERVE UNMELTED LARD FOR MANY MONTHS. 

For the particular uses to which the leaf-fat, or fleed, can be advan- 
tageously applied, see Heed-crust, Chapter XVI. It may be kept well 
during the summer months by rubbing fine salt rather plentifully upon 
it when it is first taken from the pig, and leaving it for a couple of days; 
it should then be well drained, and covered with a strong brine: this, 
in warmer weather, should be changed occasionally. When wanted 
for use, lay it into cold water for two or three hours, then wipe it dry, 
and it will have quite the effect of the fresh leaf when made into 
paste. 

Inner fat of pig, 6 lbs. ; fine salt, £ to £ lb. : 2 days. Brine ; to each 
quart of water, 6 ozs. salt. 



188 



MODERN COOKERY. 



[CHAP. XI. 



TO ROAST A SUCKING PIG. 




After the pig- has been 
scalded and prepared for the 
spit, wipe it as dry as possi- 
ble, and put into the body- 
about half a pint of fine 
bread-crumbs, mixed with 
three heaped teaspoonsful of 
sage, minced very small, 
three ounces of good butter, 
a large saltspoonful of salt, and two thirds as much of pepper, or some 
cayenne. Sew it up with soft, but strong cotton, truss it as a hare, 
with the fore legs skewered back, and the hind ones forward ; lay it to 
a strong, clear fire, but keep it at a moderate distance, as it would 
quickly blister or scorch if placed too near. So soon as it has become 
warm, rub it with a bit of butter, tie it in a fold of muslin, or of thin 
cloth, and repeat this process constantly while it is roasting. When 
the gravy begins to drop from it, put basins, or small deep tureens 
under, to catch it in. As soon as the pig is of a fine light amber brown, 
and the steam draws strongly towards the fire, wipe it quite dry with a 
clean cloth, and rub a bit of cold butter over it. When it is half done, 
a pig iron, or, in lieu of this, a large flat iron should be hung in the 
centre of the grate, or the middle of the pig will be done long before 
tiie ends. When it is ready for table, lay it into a very hot dish, and 
before the spit is withdrawn, take off and open the head, and split the 
body in two ; chop together quickly the stuffing and the brains, put 
them into half a pint of good veal gravy, ready thickened, add a glass 
of Madeira or of sherry, and the gravy which has dropped from the 
pig; pour a small portion of this under the meat, and serve the remain- 
der as hot as possible in a tureen ; a little pounded mace and cayenne, 
with a squeeze of lemon-juice, maybe added, should the flavour require 
heightening. Fine bread sauce, and plain gravy should likewise be 
served with it. Some persons still prefer the old-fashioned currant 
sauce to any other; and many have the brains and stuffing stirred 
into rich melted butter, instead of gravy ; but the receipt which we 
have given has usually been so much approved, that we can recom- 
mend it with some confidence, as it stands. Modern taste would per- 
haps be rather in favour of rich brown gravy and thick tomata sauce, or 
sauce Poivrade. 

In dishing the pig, lay the body flat in the middle, and the head and 
ears at the ends and sides. When very pure oil can be obtained, it is 
preferable to butter for the basting: it should be laid on with a bunch 
of feathers. A suckling of three weeks old is considered as best suited 
to the spit ; and it should always be dressed, if possible, the day it is 
killed. 



l£ to l£ hour. 



BAKED PIG. 



Prepare the pig exactly as for roasting, truss, and place it in the dish 
in which it is to be sent to the oven, and anoint it thickly in every part 
with white of egg which has been slightly beaten : it will require ne 



CHAP. XI.] PORK. 189 

basting, nor further attention of any kind, and will be well crisped by 
this process. 

PIG A LA TARTARE. 

When the shoulders of a cold roast pig are left entire, take them off 
with care, remove the skin, trim them into good form, dip them into 
clarified butter or very pure salad oil, then into fine crumbs highly sea- 
soned with cayenne and mixed with about a half-teaspoonful of salt. 
Broil them over a clear brisk fire, and send them quickly to table, as 
soon as they are heated through and equally browned, with tomata 
sauce, or sauce Robert. Curried crumbs and a currie-sauce will give 
an excellent variety of this dish ; and savoury herbs, with two or three 
eschalots chopped small together and mixed with the bread-crumbs, and 
brown eschalot sauce to accompany the broil, will likewise be an ac- 
ceptable one to many tastes. 

SUCKING PIG EN BLANQUETTE. (ENTREE.) 

Raise the flesh from the bones of a cold roast pig, free it from the 
crisp outer skin or crackling, and cut it down into small handsome 
slices. Dissolve a bit of butter the size of an egg, and, if they can be 
easily procured, throw in a handful of button-mushrooms, cleaned and 
sliced; shake these over the fire for three or four minutes, then stir to 
them a dessertspoonful of flour, and continue to shake or toss them 
gently, but do not allow them to brown. Add a small bunch of parsley, 
a bay-leaf, a middling-sized blade of mace, some salt, a small quantity 
of cayenne or white pepper, half a pint of good veal or beef broth, and 
from two to three glasses of light white wine. Let these boil gently 
until reduced nearly one third ; take out the parsley and mace, lay in 
the meat and bring it slowly to the point of simmering; stir to it the 
beaten yolks of three fresh eggs, and the strained juice of half a lemon. 
Serve the blanquette very hot. 

TO ROAST PORK. 

When the skin is left on the joint which is to be roasted, it must be 
scored in narrow strips of equal width, before it is put to the fire, and 
laid at a considerable distance from it at first, that the meat may be 
heated through before the skin hardens or begins to brown ; it must 
never stand still for an instant, and the basting should be constant. 
Pork is not at the present day much served at very good tables, parti- 
cularly in this form ; and it is so still less with the old savoury stuffing 
of sage and onions, though some eaters like it always with the leg: 
when it is ordered for this joint, therefore, prepare it as directed for a 
goose, at page 125, and after having loosened the skin from the knuckle, 
insert as much as can well be secured in it. A little clarified butter, 
or salad oil may be brushed over the skin quite at first, particularly 
should the meat not be very fat, but unless remarkably lean, it will 
speedily yield sufficient dripping to baste it with. Joints from which 
the fat has been pared will require, of course, far less roasting than 
those on which the crackling is retained. Brown gravy and apple or 
tomata sauce are the usual accompaniments to all roasts of pork, except 
a sucking pig; they should always be thoroughly cooked. 

Leg of pork of S lbs., 3 hours ; loin of from 5 to 6 lbs., with the skin 
on, 2 to 2$ hours; spare-rib of 6 to 7 lbs.. H hour. 



190 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XI. 

TO ROAST A SADDLE OF PORK. 

The skin of this joint may be removed entirely, but if left on it must 
be scored lengthwise, or in the direction in which it will be carved. 
The pork should be young, of fine quality, and of moderate size. Roast 
it very carefully, either by the directions given in the preceding- receipt, 
or when the skin is taken off, by those for a saddle of mutton, allowing 
in the latter case from three quarters of an hour to a full hour more 
of the fire for it in proportion to its weight. Serve it with good brown 
gravy and tomata sauce, or sauce Robert; or with apple sauce should 
it be preferred. 20 minutes to the pound, quite. 

TO ROAST SPARE-RIB. 

Spare-rib should be rubbed with powdered sage mixed with salt and 
pepper, before it is roasted. It will require, if large and thick, two or 
three hours to roast it; a very thin one may be roasted in an hour. 
Lay the thick end to the fire. When you put it down, dust on some 
flour, and baste with a little butter. 

The shoulder, loin, and chine are roasted in the same manner. A 
shoulder is the most economical part to buy, and is excellent boiled. 
Pork is always salted before it is boiled. 

Apple-sauce is always proper to accompany roasted pork ; this, with 
potatoes, mashed or plain, mashed turnips, and pickles, is good. 

TO BROIL OR FRY PORK CUTLETS. 

Cut them about half an inch thick from a delicate loin of pork, trim 
them into neat form, and take off part of the fat, or the whole of it when 
it is not liked ; dredge a little pepper or cayenne upon them, and broil 
them over a clear and moderate fire from fifteen to eighteen minutes, 
sprinkle a little fine salt upon them just before they are dished. They 
may be dipped into egg and then into bread-crumbs mixed with minced 
sage, then finished in the usual way. When fried, flour them well, 
and season them with salt and pepper first. Serve them with gravy 
made in the pan, or with sauce Robert. 

cobbett's receipt for curing bacon ; (extracted from his " Cottage 
Economy") 
" All other parts being taken aw T ay, the two sides that remain, and 
which are called flitches, are to be cured for bacon. They are first 
rubbed with salt on their inside, or flesh sides, then placed one on the 
other, the flesh sides uppermost, in a salting trough, which has a gutter 
round its edges to drain away the brine; for to have sweet and fine 
bacon, the flitches must not be sopping in brine, which gives it the sort 
of taste that barrel-pork and sea-junk have, and than which nothing is 
more villanous. Every one knows how different is the taste of fresh 
dry salt from that of salt in a dissolved state. Therefore, change the 
salt often ; once in four or five days. Let it melt and sink in, but let 
it not lie too long. Change the flitches, put that at bottom which was 
first on the top. Do this a couple of times. This mode will cost you a 
great deal more in salt than the sopping mode ; but without it your 
bacon will not be so sweet, and fine, nor keep so well. As to the time 
required for making the flitches sufficiently salt, it depends on circum- 
Btances ; the thickness of the flitch, the state of the weather, the place 
wherein the saltinsr is ffoino- on. It takes a longer time for a thick than 



CHAP. XI.] PORK. ]91 

for a thin flitch ; it takes longer in dry than in damp weather; it takes 
longer in a dry than in a damp place. But for the flitches of a hog of 
five score, in weather not very dry or very damp, about six weeks may 
do; and as yours is to be fat, which receives little injury from over- 
salting', give time enough ; for you are to have bacon until Christmas 
comes again. The place for salting should, like a dairy, always be 
cool, but always admit of a free circulation of air; confined air, though 
cool, will taint meat sooner than the mid-day sun accompanied with a 
breeze. With regard to smoking the bacon, two precautions are neces- 
sary : first, to hang the flitches where no rain comes down upon them, 
and next, that the smoke must proceed from wood, not peat, turf nor 
coal. As to the time that it requires to smoke a flitch, it must depend 
a good deal upon whether there be a constant fire beneath, and whether 
the fire be large or small. A month will do if the fire be pretty con- 
stant, and such as a farm-house fire usually is. But over-smoking, or 
rather, too long hanging in the air, makes the bacon rust. Great atten- 
tion should, therefore, be paid to this matter. The flitch ought not to 
be dried up to the hardness of a board, and yet it oughl to be perfectly 
dry. Before you hang it up, lay it on the floor, scatter the flesh-side 
pretty thickly over with bran or with some fine saw-dust, not of deal or 
fir. Rub it on the flesh, or pat it well down upon it. This keeps the 
smoke from getting into the little openings, and makes a sort of crust 
to be dried on. 

" To keep the bacon sweet and good, and free from hoppers, sift fine 
some clean and dry wood-ashes. Put some at the bottom of a box or 
chest long enough to hold a flitch of bacon. Lay in one flitch ; and 
then put in more ashes, then another flitch, and cover this with six or 
eight inches of the ashes. The place where the box or chest is kept 
ought to be dry, and should the ashes become damp they should be put 
in the fire-place to dry, and when cold, put back again. With these 
precautions the bacon will be as good at the end of the year as on the 
first day." 

Obs. — Although the preceding directions for curing the bacon are a 
little vague as regards the proportions of salt and pork, we think those 
for its after-management will be acceptable to many of our readers, as 
in our damp climate it is often a matter of great difficulty to preserve 
hams and bacon through the year from rust. 

A GENUINE YORKSHIRE RECEIPT FOR CURING HAMS AND BACON. 

" Let the swine be put up to fast for twenty-four hours before they 
are killed (and observe that neither a time of severe frost nor very damp 
weather is favourable for curing bacon). After a pig has been killed 
and scalded, let it hang twelve hours before it is cut up, then for every 
stone, or fourteen pounds weight of the meat, take one pound of salt, an 
ounce and a quarter of saltpetre, and half an ounce of coarse sugar. 
Rub the sugar and saltpetre first into the fleshy parts of the pork, and 
remove carefully with a fork any extravasated blood that may appear 
on it, together with the broken vessels adjoining ; apply the salt espe- 
cially to those parts, as well as to the shank-ends of the hams, and any 
other portions of the flesh that are more particularly exposed. Before 
the salt is added to the meat, warm it a little before the fire, and use 
only a part of it in the first instance; then, as it dissolves, or is absorbed 



192 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XI. 

by the meat, add the remainder at several different times. Let the 
meat in the mean while lie either on clean straw, or on a cold brick or 
stone floor: it will require from a fortnight to three weeks' curino- 
according to the state of the atmosphere. When done, hang it in a 
cool dry place, where there is a thorough current of air, and let it 
remain there until it is perfectly dry, when the salt will be found to 
have crystallized upon the surface. The meat may then be removed 
to your store, and kept in a close chest, surrounded with clean outer 
straw. If very large, the hams will not be in perfection in less than 
twelve months from the time of their being stored." 

Pork, 20 stone ; salt, 20 lbs. ; saltpetre, 20 ozs. ; sugar lOozs. : 14 to 
21 days. 

KENTISH MODE OF CUTTING UP AND CURING A PIG. 

To a porker of sixteen stone Kentish weight, (that is to say, eight 
pounds to the stone, or nine stone two pounds of common weight,) allow 
two gallons of salt, two pounds of saltpetre, one pound of coarse sugar, 
and two pounds of bay-salt, well dried and reduced to powder. Put 
aside the hams and cheeks to be cured by themselves; let the feet, ears, 
tail, and eye-parts of the head be salted for immediate eating. The 
blade-bones, and ends of the loins and ribs reserved for sausage-meat 
should it be wanted, and the loin and spare-ribs for roasting. Divide 
and salt the remainder thus : Mix well together the saltpetre, sugar, 
and bay-salt, and rub the pork gently with them in every part; cover 
the bottom of the pickling tub with salt, and pack in the pork as closely 
as possible, with a portion of the remaining salt between each layer. A 
very little water is sometimes sprinkled in to facilitate the dissolving of 
the salt into a brine, but this is better avoided, if possible, and in damp 
weather will not be needed. If in a fortnight it should not have risen, 
so as almost entirely to cover the meat, boil a strong brine of salt, salt- 
petre, sugar, and bay-salt; let it remain till perfectly cold, and then 
pour it over the pork. A board, with a heavy stone weight upon it, 
should be kept upon the meat, to force it down under the brine. In 
from three to four months it will be fit for table, and will be delicate 
and excellent pickled pork. 

The pickling parts of a porker of sixteen stone (Kentish weight, or 
nine stone two pounds of common weight, or fourteen pounds to the 
stone); common salt, 2 gallons; saltpetre, 2 lbs.; coarse sugar, 1 lb.; 
bay-salt, 2 lbs. 

FRENCH BACON FOR LARDING. 

Cut the bacon from the pig with as little lean to it as possible. Rub 
it well in every part, with salt which has been dried, reduced to powder, 
and sifted; put the layers of bacon close against and upon each other, 
in a shallow wooden trough, and set in a cool, but not a damp cellar ; 
add more salt all round the bacon, and lay a board, with a very heavy 
weight upon it. Let it remain for six weeks, then hang it up in a dry 
and airy place. 

Pork, 14 lbs. ; salt, 14 ozs. : 6 weeks. 

TO PICKLE CHEEKS OF BACON AND HAMS. 

One pound of common salt, one pound of the coarsest sugar, and one 
ounce of saltpetre, in fine powder, to each stone (fourteen pounds) of 
the meat will answer this purpose extremely well. An ounce of black 



CHAP. XI.] PORK. 193 

pepper can be added, ifliked, and when less sugar is preferred, the pro- 
portion can be diminished one-half, and the quantity of salt as much in- 
creased. Bacon also may be cured by this receipt, or by the Bordyke 
one for hams. A month is sufficient time for the salting - , unless the 
pork be very large, when five weeks must be allowed for a ham. The 
ingredients may be well mixed, and all applied at the same time. 

To each 14 lbs. of pork, salt, 1 lb. ; coarse sugar, 1 lb. ; saltpetre, 1 
oz. ; pepper (if used), 1 oz. : 4 to 5 weeks. 

HAMS SUPERIOR TO WESTPHALIA. 

Take the hams as soon as the pig is sufficiently cold to be cut up, 
rub them well with common salt, and leave them for three days to 
drain; throw away the brine, and for a couple of hams of from fifteen to 
eighteen pounds weight, mix together two ounces of saltpetre, a pound 
of coarse sugar, and a pound of common salt; rub the hams in every 
part with these, lay them into deep pickling-pans with the rind down- 
wards, and keep them for three days well covered with the salt and. 
sugar ; then pour over them a bottle of good vinegar, and turn them in 
the brine, and baste them with it daily for a month; drain them well, 
rub them with bran, and let them be hung for a month high in a chim- 
ney over a wood-fire to be smoked. 

Hams, of from 15 to 18 lbs. each, 2; to drain 3 days. Common salt, 
and coarse sugar, each 1 lb. ; saltpetre, 2 ozs. : 3 days. Vinegar, 1 
bottle : 1 month. To be smoked 1 month. 

Obs. — Such of our readers as shall make trial of this admirable 
receipt, will acknowledge, we doubt not, that the hams thus cured are 
in reality superior to those of Westphalia. It was originally given to 
the public by the celebrated French cook, Monsieur Ude, to whom, after 
having proved it, we are happy to acknowledge our obligation for it. 
He directs that the hams when smoked should be hung as high as possi- 
ble from the fire, that the fat may not be melted ; a very necessary pre- 
caution, as the mode of their being cured renders it peculiarly liable to 
do so. This, indeed, is somewhat perceptible in the cooking, which 
ought, therefore, to be conducted with especial care. The hams should 
be very softly simmered,* and not orer-done. They should be large, and 
of finely-fed pork, or the receipt will not answer. We give the result 
of our first trial of it, which was perfectly successful. 

Leg of farm-house pork, 14 to 15 lbs. ; saltpetre, 1} oz. ; strong coarse 
salt, 6 ozs. ; coarse sugar, 8 ozs. : 3 days. Fine white-wine vinegar, 1 
pint. In pickle, turned daily, 1 month. Smoked over wood, 1 month. 

Obs. — When two hams are pickled together a smaller proportion of 
the ingredients is required for each, than for one which is cured by itself. 

hams ; (Bordyke Receipt.) 
After the hams have been rubbed with salt, and well drained from 
the brine, according to our previous directions, take, for each fourteen 
pounds weight of the pork, one ounce of saltpetre in fine powder, mixed 
with three ounces of the coarsest sugar ; rub the meat in every part 
with these, and let ft remain some hours, then cover it well with eight 
ounces of bay-salt, dried and pounded, and mixed with four ounces of 

* We have not been able to make the trial ourselves, but we think they would be 
even finf-r baked than boiled. 

12 



194 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XI. 

common salt : in four days add one pound of treacle, and keep the hams 
turned daily, and well basted with the pickle for a month. Hang them 
up to drain for a night, fold them in brown paper, and send them to be 
smoked for a month. An ounce of ground black pepper is often mixed 
with the saltpetre in this receipt, and three ounces of bruised juniper- 
berries are rubbed on to the meat before the salt is added, when hams 
of a very high flavour are desired. 

Ham, 14 lbs. ; saltpetre, 1 oz. ; coarse sugar, 3 ozs. : 8 to 12 hours. 
Bay-salt, \ lb. ; common salt, 4 ozs. : 4 days. Treacle, 1 lb. : 1 month. 
To heighten flavour, black pepper, 1 oz. ; juniper-berries, 3 ozs. 

TO BOIL A HAM. 

The degree of soaking which must be given to a ham before it is 
boiled, must depend both on the manner in which it has been cured, 
ind on its age. If highly salted, hard, and old, a day and night, or even 
longer, may be requisite to dilate the pores sufficiently, and to extract a 
portion of the salt. To do either effectually the water must be several 
times changed during the steeping. We generally find hams cured by 
any of the receipts which we have given in this chapter quite enough 
soaked in twelve hours; and they are more frequently laid into water 
only early in the morning of the day on which they are boiled. Those 
pickled by Monsieur Ude's receipt need much less steeping than any 
others. After the ham has been scraped, or brushed, as clean as possi- 
ble, pare away lightly any part which, from being blackened or rusty, 
would disfigure it; though it is better not to cut the flesh at all unless 
it be really requisite for the good appearance of the joint. Lay it into 
a ham-kettle, or into any other vessel of a similar form, and cover it 
plentifully with cold water ; bring it very sloivly indeed to boil, and 
clear off carefully the scum which will be thrown up in great abundance. 
So soon as the water has been cleared from this, draw back the pan 
quite to the edge of the stove, that the ham may be simmered softly, 
but steadily, until it is tender. On no account allow it to boil fast. A 
bunch of herbs and three or four carrots, thrown in directly after the 
water has been skimmed, will improve it. When it can be probed very 
easily with a sharp skewer, or larding-pin, lift it out, strip off the skin, 
which may be kept to cover the ham when cold, and should there be 
an oven at hand, set it in for a few minutes, after having laid it on a 
drainer ; strew fine raspings over it, or grate a hard-toasted crust, or sift 
upon it the prepared bread of page 1 14, unless it is to be glazed, when 
neither of these must be used. 

Small ham, 3£ to 4 hours; moderate sized, 4 to 4i hours; very large, 
5 to 5A hours. 

Obs. — We have seen the following manner of boiling a ham recom- 
mended, but we have not tried it:— -"Put into the water in which it is 
to he boiled, a quart of old cider and a pint of vinegar, a large bunch of 
sweet herbs, and a bay-leaf. When it is two thirds done, skin, cover it 
with raspings, and set it in an oven until it is done enough: it will 
prove incomparably superior to a ham boiled in the usual way.*' 

FUENCH RECEIPT FOR BOILING A HAM. 

After having soaked, thoroughly cleaned, and trimmed the ham, put 
over it a little very sweet clean hay, and tie it up in a thin cloth ; place 



CHAP. XI.] FORK. 195 

it in a ham kettle, a braising- pan, or any other vessel as nearly of its 
size as can be, and cover it with two parts of cold water, and one of 
light white wine (we think the reader will perhaps find cider a good 
substitute for this) ; add, when it boils and has been skimmed, four or 
five carrots, two or three onions, a large bunch of savoury herbs, and 
the smallest bit of garlic. Let the whole simmer gently from four to 
five hours, or longer should the ham be very large. When perfectly 
tender, lift it out, take off the rind, and sprinkle over it some fine 
crumbs, or some raspings of bread mixed with a little finely minced 
parsley. 

TO BAKE A HAM. 

Unless when too salt, from not being sufficiently soaked, a ham (par- 
ticularly a young and fresh one) eats much better baked than boiled, 
and remains longer good. The safer plan is to lay it into plenty of cold 
water over night. The following day soak it for an hour or more in 
warm water, wash it delicately clean, trim smoothly off all rusty parts, 
and lay it with the rind downwards into a coarse paste rolled to about 
an inch thick ; moisten the edges, draw, pinch them together, and fold 
them over on the upper side of the ham, taking care to close them so 
that no gravy can escape. Send it to a well-heated, but not a fierce 
oven. A very small ham will require quite three hours baking, and a 
large one five. The crust and the skin must be removed while it is 
hot. When part only of a ham is dressed, this mode is better far than 
boiling it. 

TO BOIL BACON. 

When very highly salted and dried, it should be soaked for an hour 
before it is dressed. Scrape and wash it well, cover it plentifully with 
cold water, let it both heat and boil slowly, remove all the scum with 
care, and when a fork or skewer will penetrate the bacon easily lift it 
out, strip off the skin, and strew raspings of bread over the top, or grate 
upon it a hard crust which has been toasted until it is crisp quite 
through ; or should it be at hand, use for the purpose the bread recom- 
mended at page 114, then dry it a little before the fire, or set it for a 
few minutes into a gentle oven. Bacon requires long boiling, but the 
precise time depends upon its quality, the flesh of young porkers be- 
coming tender much sooner than that of older ones; sometimes, too, the 
manner in which the animal has been fed renders the meat hard, and it 
will then, unless thoroughly cooked, prove very indigestible. From ten 
to fifteen minutes less for the pound must be allowed for unsmoked 
bacon, or for pickled pork. 

Smoked bacon (striped), 2 lbs., from l£ to 1^ hour; unsmoked bacon, 
or pork, 1 to 1^ hour. 

Obs. — The thickest part of a large gammon of bacon will require 
from twenty to thirty minutes longer buling than the thinner side. 

BACON BROILED OR FRIED. 

Cut it evenly in thin slices, or rashers, as they are generally called, 
pare from them all rind and rust, curl them round, fasten them with 
small slight skewers, then fry, broil, or toast them in a Dutch oven; 
draw out the skewers before they are tsent to tabic A few minutes 
will dress them either way. They may also be cookeu without being 
curled. The rind should always be taken off, and the bacon gently 



196 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XI. 

toasted, grilled, or fried, that it may be well done without being- too 
much dried, or hardened : it should be cut thin. Fry what eggs you 
want in butter, and when dished lay an egg on each slice of ham, and 
serve. 

DRESSED RASHERS OF BACON. 

Slice rather thicker than for frying, some cold boiled bacon, and strew 
it lightly on both sides with fine raspings of bread, or with a grated 
crust which has been very slowly and gradually toasted until brown 
quite through. Toast or warm the rashers in a Dutch oven, and serve 
them with veal cutlets, or any other delicate meat. The bacon thus 
dressed is much nicer than when broiled or fried without the previous 
boiling. 

4 to 5 minutes. 

TONBRIDGE BRAWN. 

Split open the head of a middling-sized porker, remove the brain and 
all the bones, strew the inside rather thickly with fine salt, and let it 
drain until the following day. Cleanse the ears and feet in the same 
manner; wipe them all from the brine, lay them into a large pan, and 
rub them well with an ounce and a half of saltpetre mixed with six 
ounces of sugar; in twelve hours, add six ounces of salt; the next day 
pour a quarter-pint of good vinegar over them, and keep them turned in 
the pickle every twenty-four hours, for a week, then wash it off the ears 
and feet, and boil them for about an hour and a half; bone the feet 
while they are warm, and trim the gristle from the large ends of the 
ears. When these are ready, mix a large grated nutmeg with a tea- 
spoonful and a half of mace, half a teaspoonful of cayenne, and as much 
of cloves. Wash, but do not soak the head ; wipe and flatten it on a 
board; cut some of the flesh from the thickest parts, and (when the 
whole of the meat has been seasoned equally with the spices) lay it on 
the thinnest ; intermix it with that of the ears and feet, roll it up very 
tight, and bind it firmly with broad tape; fold a thin pudding-cloth quite 
closely round it, and tie it securely at both ends. A braising-pan, from 
its form, is best adapted for boiling it, but if there be not one at hand, 
place the head in a vessel adapted to its size, with the bones and trim- 
mings of the feet and ears, a large bunch of savoury herbs, two mode- 
rate-sized onions, a small head of celery, three or four carrots, a tea- 
spoonful of peppercorns, and sufficient cold water to cover it well ; boil 
it very gently for four hours, and leave it until two parts cold in the 
liquor in which it was boiled. Take off the cloth, and put the brawn 
between two dishes or trenchers, with a heavy weight on the upper one. 
The next day take off the fillets of tape, and serve the head whole or 
sliced. 

ITALIAN PORK CHEESE. 

Chop, not very fine, one pound of lean pork with two pounds of the 
inside fat; strew over and mix thoroughly with them three teaspoonsful 
of salt, nearly half as much pepper, a half-teaspoonful of mixed parsley, 
thyme, and sage (and sweet-basil, if it can be procured), all minced ex- 
tremely small. Press the meat closely and evenly into a shallow tin, — 
such as are used for Yorkshire puddings will answer well, — and bake it 
in a very gentle oven from an hour to an hour and a half: it is served 
cold, in slices. Should the proportion of fat be considered too much, it 
can be diminished on a second trial. 



— .-J pork. 197 

Minced mushrooms or truffles may be added with very good effect to 
all meat-cakes, or compositions of this kind. 

Lean of pork, 1 lb. ; fat, 2 lbs. ; salt, 3 teaspoonsful ; pepper, 1^ tea- 
spoonful ; mace, \ teaspoonful ; nutmeg-, 1 small ; mixed herbs, 1 laro-e 
tablespoonfhl : 1 to 1^ hour. 

[Pickled pork takes more time than other meat. If you buy your 
pork ready salted, ask how many days it has been in salt ; if many, it 
will require to be soaked in water before you dress it. When you cook 
it, wash and scrape it as clean as possible ; when delicately dressed, it 
is a favourite dish with almost every body. Take care it does not boil 
fast; if it does, the knuckle will break to pieces before the thick part of 
the meat is warm through ; a leg of seven pounds takes three hours and 
a half very slow simmering. Skim your pot very carefully, and when 
you take the meat out of the boiler, scrape it clean. 

The proper vegetables are parsnips, potatoes, turnips, or carrots. 
Some like cabbage, but it is a strong, rank vegetable, and does not 
agree with a delicate stomach.] 

SAUSAGE-MEAT CAKE, OR, PAIN DE PORC FRAIS. 

Season very highly from two to three pounds of good sausage-meat, 
both with spices and with sage, or with thyme and parsley, if these be 
preferred ; press the mixture into a pan, and proceed exactly as for the 
veal-cake of page 168. A few minced eschalots can be mixed with the 
meat for those who like their flavour. 

SAUSAGES. 

Common farm-house sausages are made with nearly equal parts of 
fat and lean pork, coarsely chopped, and seasoned with salt and pepper 
only. They are put into skins (which have previously been turned 
inside out, scraped very thin, washed with exceeding nicety, and wiped 
very dry), then twisted into links, and should be hung in a cool airy 
larder, when they will remain good for some length of time. Odd scraps 
and trimmings of pork are usually taken for sausage-meat when the pig 
is killed and cut up at home ; but the chine and blade-bone are pre- 
ferred in general for the purpose. The pork rinds, as we have already 
stated, will make a strong and almost flavourless jelly, which may be 
used with excellent effect for stock, and which, with the addition of 
some pork-bones, plenty of vegetables, and some dried peas, will make 
a very nutritious soup for those who do not object to the pork-flavour 
which the bones will give. Half an ounce of salt, and nearly or quite 
a quarter-ounce of pepper will sufficiently season each pound of the 
sausage-meat. 

KENTISH SAUSAGE-MEAT. 

To three pounds of lean pork add two of fat, and let both be taken 
clear of skin. As sausages are lighter, though not so delicate when 
the meat is somewhat, coarsely chopped, this difference should be at- 
tended to in making them. When the fat and lean are partially mixed, 
strew over them two ounces and a half of dry salt, beaten to powder, 
and mixed with one ounce of ground black pepper, and three laro-e 
tablespoonsful of sage, very finely minced. Turn the meat with the 
chopping-kmfe, until the ingredients are well blended. Test it before 
it is taken off the block, by frying a small portion, that if more season 



198 MODERN COOKERY. ^CHAP. XI. 

ing be desired, it may at once be added. A full-sized nutmeg, and a 
small dessertspoonful of pounded mace would, to many tastes, improve 
it. This sausage-meat is usually formed into cakes, which, after being 
well floured, are roasted in a Dutch oven. They must be watched, and 
often turned, that no part may be scorched. The meat may also be 
put into skins, and dressed in any other way. 

Lean of pork, 3 lbs. ; fat, 2 lbs. ; salt, 2J ozs. ; pepper, 1 oz. ; minced 
sage, 3 large tablespoonsful. 

EXCELLENT SAUSAGES. 

Chop, first separately, and then together, one pound and a quarter of 
veal, perfectly free from fat, skin, and sinew, an equal weight of lean 
pork, and of the inside fat of the pig. Mix well, and strew over the 
meat an ounce and a quarter of salt, half an ounce of pepper, one nut- 
meg grated, and a large teaspoonful of pounded mace. Turn, and chop 
the sausages until they are equally seasoned throughout, and tolerably 
fine ; press them into a clean pan, and keep them in a very cool place. 
Form them, when wanted for table, into cakes something less than an 
inch thick, flour and fry them then for about ten minutes in a little 
butter. 

Lean of veal and pork, of each, 1 lb. 4 ozs. ; fat of pork, 1 lb. 4 ozs. ; 
salt, li oz. ; pepper, ^ oz. ; nutmeg, 1 ; mace, 1 large teaspoonful: 
fried in cakes, 10 minutes. 

pounded sausage-meat ; {very good.) 

Take from the best end of a neck of veal, or from the fillet or loin, a 
couple or more pounds of flesh without any intermixture of fat or skin ; 
chop it small, and pound it thoroughly in a large mortar, with half its 
weight of the inside, or leaf-fat, of a pig ; proportion salt and spice to 
it by the preceding receipt, form it into cakes, and fry it as above. 

BOILED SAUSAGES. 

Sausages are sometimes boiled in the skins, and served upon a toast, 
as a corner dish. They should be put into boiling water, and simmered 
from seven to ten minutes, according to their size. 

sausages and chestnuts, (entree.) An excellent dish. (French.) 
Roast, and take the husk and skin from forty fine Spanish chestnuts; 
fry gently, in a morsel of butter, six small flat oval cakes of fine sausage- 
meat, and when they are well browned, lift them out and pour into a 
saucepan, which should be bright in the inside, the greater part of the 
fat in which they have been fried ; mix with it a large teaspoonful ot 
flour, and stir these over the fire till they are well and equally browned ; 
then pour in by degrees nearly half a pint of strong beef or veal broth, 
or gravy, and two glasses of good white wine ; add a small bunch of 
savoury herbs, and as much salt and pepper, or cayenne, as will season 
the whole properly; give it a boil, lay in the sausages round the pan, 
and the chestnuts in the centre; stew them very softly for nearly an 
hour ; take out the herbs, dish the sausages neatly, and heap the chest- 
nuts in the centre, strain the sauce over them and serve them very hot. 
This is a corner dish. There should be no sage mixed with the pork 
to dress thus. 

Chestnuts, roasted, 40; sausages, 6; gravy, nearly | pint; sherry or 
Madeira, 2 wineglassesfui : stewed together from 50 to 60 minutes. 



CHAP. XII.] 



POULTRY. 



199 



truffled sausages ; (Saucisses aux Truffles.) 
With two pounds of the lean of young tender pork, mix one pound 
of fat, a quarter of a pound of truffles, minced very small, an ounce 
and a half of salt, a seasoning- of cayenne, or quite half an ounce of 
white pepper, a nutmeg-, a teaspoonful of freshly pounded mace, and a 
dessertspoonful or more of savoury herbs dried and reduced to powder. 
Test a morsel of the mixture ; heig-hten any of the seasoning-s to the 
taste ; and put the meat into delicately clean skins : if it be for imme- 
diate use, and the addition is liked, moisten it, before it is dressed, with 
-me or two g-lassesful of Madeira. The substitution of a clove of garlic 
for the truffles will convert these into Saucisses a VAil, or garlic sau- 
sages. 



CHAPTER XII. 
POULTRY. 




Boiled Fowl. 



TO CHOOSE POULTRY. 

Young, plump, well-fed, but not over-fatted poultry is the best. The 
skin of fowls and turkeys should be clear, white, and finely grained, 
the breasts broad and full-fleshed, the legs smooth, the toes pliable and 
easily broken when bent back; the birds should also be heavy in pro- 
portion to their size. This applies equally to geese and ducks, of which 
the breasts likewise should be very plump, and the feet yellow and flex- 
ible : when these are red and hard, the bills of the same colour, and the 
skin full of hairs, and extremely coarse, the birds are old. 

White-legged fowls and chickens should be chosen for boiling, be- 
cause their appearance is the most delicate when dressed ; but the dark- 
legged ones often prove more juicy and of better flavour when roasted, 
and their colour then is immaterial. 

Every precaution should be taken to prevent poultry from becoming 
ever so slightly tainted before it is cooked, but unless the weather be 
exceedingly sultry, it should not be quite freshly killed :* pigeons only 

*If from accidental circumstances it should become apparently unfit for table, it may 
be restored to an eatable state by the same means as fish; it should not, however, be 
ourchased, at any time, when it exhibits a greenish tint on any part of the skin, at 
this indicates its being already stale. 



200 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XII. 

are the better for heing so, and are thought to lose their flavour by 
hanging- even a day or two. Turkeys, as we have stated in our receipts 
for them, are very tough and poor eating if not sufficiently long kept. 
A goose, also, in winter, should hang some days before it is dressed, and 
fowls, likewise, will be improved by it. 

All kinds of poultry should be thorou<rhhj cooked, though without 
being over-done, for nothing in general can more effectually destroy the 
appetite than the taste and appearance of their flesh when brought to 
table half roasted or boiled. 

TO BONE A FOWL OR TURKEY WITHOUT OPENING IT. 

After the fowl has been drawn and singed, wipe it inside and out with 
a clean cloth, but do not wash it. Take off the head, cut through the 
ekin all round the first joint of the legs, and pull them from the fowl, 
to draw out the large tendons. Raise the flesh first from the lower part 
of the back-bone, and a little also from the end of the breast-bone, if 
necessary ; work the knife gradually to the socket of the thigh ; with 
the point of the knife detach the joint from it, take the end of the bone 
firmly in the fingers, and cut the flesh clean from it down to the next 
joint, round which pass the point of the knife carefully, and when the 
skin is loosened from it in every part, cut round the next bone, keeping 
the edge of tiie knife close to it, until the whole of the leg is done. 
Remove the bones of the other leg in the same manner ; then detach 
the flesh from the back and breast-bone sufficiently to enable you to 
reach the upper joints of the wings; proceed with these as with the 
legs, but be especially careful not to pierce the skin of the second joint: 
it is usual to leave the pinions unboned, in order to give more easily its 
natural form to the fowl when it is dressed. The merry-thought and 
neck-bones may now easily be cut away, the back and side-bones taken 
out without being divided, and the breast-bone separated carefully from 
the flesh (which, as the work progresses, must be turned back from the 
bones upon the fowl, until it is completely inside out). After the one 
remaining bone is removed, draw the wings and legs back to their pro- 
per form, and turn the fowl the right side outwards. 

A turkey is boned exactly in the same manner, but as it requires a 
very large proportion of forcemeat to fill it entirely, the legs and wings 
are sometimes drawn into the body, to diminish the expense of this. 
If very securely trussed, and sewn, the bird may be either boiled, or 
stewed in rich gravy, as well as roasted, after being boned and forced. 

ANOTHER MODE OF BONING A FOWL OR TURKEY. 

Cut through the skin down the centre of the back, and raise the flesh 
carefully on either side with the point of a sharp knife, until the sockets 
of the wings and thighs are reached. Till a little practice has been 
gained, it will perhaps be better to bone these joints before proceeding 
further ; but after they are once detached from it, the whole of the 
body may easily be separated from the flesh and taken out entire : only 
the neck-bones and merrythought will then remain to be removed. 
The bird thus prepared may either be restored to its original form, by 
filling the legs and wings with forcemeat, and the body with the livers 
of two or three fowls, if they can be procured, mixed with alternate lay- 
ers of parboiled tongue, freed from the rind, fine sausr.ge meat, or veal 



CHAP. XII.] POULTRY. 201 

forcemeat, or thin slices of the nicest bacon, or aught else of good fla- 
vour, which will give a marbled appearance to the fowl when it id 
carved; and then be sewn up and trussed as usual; or the legs and 
wings may be drawn inside the botly, and the bird being first flattened 
on a table may be covered with sausage meat, and the various other 
ingredients we have named, so placed that it shall lie of equal thickness 
in every part; then tightly rolled, bound firmly together with a fillet of 
broad tape, wrapped in a thin pudding-cloth, closely tied at both ends, 
and dressed as follows : — Put it into a braising-pan, stewpan, or thick 
iron saucepan, bright in the inside, and fitted as nearly as may be to its 
size; add all the chicken-bones, a bunch of sweet herbs, two carrots, 
two bay-leaves, a large blade of mace, twenty-four white peppercorns, 
and any trimmings or bones of undressed veal which may be at hand ; 
cover the whole with good veal-broth, add salt, if needed, and stew it 
very softly, from an hour and a quarter to an hour and a half; let it cool 
in the liquor in which it was stewed ; and after it is lifted out, boil down 
the gravy to a jelly and strain it; let it become cold, clear off the fat, 
and serve it cut into large dice or roughed, and laid round the fowl, 
which is to be served cold. If restored to its form, instead of being 
rolled, it must be stewed gently for an hour, and may then be sent to 
table hot, covered with mushroom, or any other good sauce that may be 
preferred; or it may be left until the following- day, and served gar- 
nished with the jelly, which should be firm, and very clear and well- 
flavoured: the liquor in which the calf's foot has been boiled down, 
added to the broth, will give it the necessary degree of consistency. 
French cooks add three or four onions to these preparations of poultry 
(the last of which is called a galantine) ; but these our own taste would 
lead us to reject. 

Rolled, 1^ to H hour; galantine, 1 hour. 

Obs. — A couple of fowls, boned and rolled, make an excellent pie. 

TO BOXE FOWLS FOR FRICASSEES, CURRIES, AAD PIES. 

First carve them entirely into joints, then remove the bones, begin- 
ning with the legs and wings, at the head of the largest bone ; hold Ihis 
with the fingers, and work the knife as directed in the receipt above. 
The remainder of the birds is too easily done to require any instructions. 

TO ROAST A TURKEY. 

In very cold weather a turkey in 
its feathers will hang (in an airy lar- 
der) quite a fortnight with advantage; 
and, however fine a quality of bird it ^i^ 
may be, unless sufficiently long kept, 
it will prove not worth the dressing,' 
though it should always he perfectly 
sweet when prepared for table. Pluck, 
draw, and singe it with exceeding Tnrke - V trussed for Roasting, 

care; wash, and then dry it thoroughly with clean cloths, or merely 
wipe the outside well, without wetting it, and pour water plentifully 
through the inside.' Fill the breast with forcemeat (No. 1, page 1^2), 
or with the finest sausage meat, highly seasoned with minced herbs, 
lemon-rind, mace, and cayenne. Truss the bird firmly, lay it to a clear 




202 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XII. 

sound fire, baste it constantly and bountifully with butter, and serve it 
when done with good brown gravy, and well-made bread sauce. An 
entire chain of delicate fried sausages is still often placed in the dish, 
round a turkey, as a garnish. 

It is usual to fold and fasten a sheet of buttered writing-paper over 
the breast to prevent its being too much coloured: this should be re- 
moved twenty minutes before the bird is done. The forcemeat of 
chestnuts (No. 15, Chapter VI.) may be very advantageously substi- 
tuted for the commoner kinds in stuffing it, and the body may then be 
filled with chestnuts, previously stewed until tender in rich gravy, or 
simmered over a slow fire in plenty of rasped bacon, with a high sea- 
soning of mace, nutmeg, and cayenne, until they are so ; or, instead of 
this, well-made chestnut, sauce, or a dish of stewed chestnuts, may be 
sent to table with the turkey. 

1^ to 2 \ hours. 

Obs. — A turkey should be laid at first far from the fire, and drawn 
nearer when half done, though never sufficiently so to scorch it; it 
should be well roasted, for even the most inveterate advocates of under- 
dressed meats will seldom tolerate the taste or sight of partially-raw 
poultry. 

TO BOIL A TURKEY. 

A delicate but plump hen-turkey of 
moderate size should be selected for 
boiling. Pick and draw it, using the 
greatest precaution not to break the 
gall bladder; singe it with writing 
paper, take off the head and neck, cut 
through the skin round the first joint 
of the legs, and draw them off: this 
is best accomplished by fastening the Turkey for Boiling, 

feet to a strong hook, and then pulling the bird away from it. Wash it 
exceedingly clean, and then wipe it dry; fill the breast with the force- 
meat No. 1 or 2 of Chapter VI.,- or with the oyster, chestnut, or French 
forcemeat, of which the receipts are given in the same chapter. In 
trussing it draw the legs into the body, break the breast-bone, and give 
the turkey as round and plump an appearance as can be. Put it into 
plenty of warm water, clear off the scum with the greatest care as it is 
thrown to the surface, and boil the bird very gently from an hour and a 
half to two hours and a quarter. A very large turkey would require a 
longer time, but it is unsuited to this mode of cooking. When the 
oyster-forcemeat is used, a large tureen of rich oyster sauce should 
accompany the dish ; but celery sauce, or good white sauce, may other 
wise be sent to table with it; and a boiled tongue or a small ham is 
usually served in addition. For a plain family dinner, a delicate cheek 
of bacon is sometimes substituted for either of these, and parsley and 
butter for a more expensive sauce. Fast boiling will cause the skin of 
the bird to break, and must therefore be especially avoided : it should 
hang for some days before it is dressed, for if quite freshly killed it will 
not be tender, but it must be perfectly sweet to be fit for table. 

Moderate-sized turkey, 1^ to 2 hours; large turkey, longer; very 
small one, less time. 




vx..j POULTRY. Soo 

turkey boned and forced ; (an excellent msh.) 
Take a small, well-kept, but quite sweet hen-turkey, of from seven to 
eight pounds weight, and remove, by the receipt for a fowl (page 200), 
all the bones except those of the pinions, without opening the bird ; 
draw it into shape, and fill it entirely with exceedingly fine sausage- 
meat, beginning with the legs and wings; plump the breast well in pre- 
paring it, and when its original form is quite restored, tie it securely at 
both ends, and at the extremities of the legs; pass a slight iron skewer 
through these and the body, and another through the wings and body ; 
then lay a twine over the back of the turkey, and pass it under the ends 
of the first skew T er, cross it in the centre of the back, and pass it under 
the ends of the second skewer ; then carry it over the pinions to keep 
them firmly in their place, and fasten it at the neck. When a cradle 
spit, of which the engraving below shows the form, and which opens 




Cradle Spit. 

with a joint to receive the roast, is not at hand, a bottle-jack will be 
found more convenient than any other for holding the turkey; and after 
the hook of this is passed through the neck, it must be further supported 
by a string running across the back and under the points of the skewer 
which confines the pinions to the hook; for, otherwise, its weight would 
most probably cause it to fall. Flour it well, place it far from the fire 
until it is heated through, and baste it plentifully and incessantly with 
butter. An hour and three quarters will roast it well. Break and 
boil down the bones for gravy in a pint and a half of water, with a little 
salt, a few slices of celery, a dozen corns of pepper, and a branch or 
two of parsley. Brown gently in a morsel of good butter, a couple of 
ounces of lean ham, add to them a slight dredge of flour, and a little 
cayenne, and pour to them the broth from the bones, after it has boiled 
an hour, and been strained and skimmed ; shake the stewpan well round, 
and stew the gravy until it is wanted for table ; clear it entirely from 
fat ; strain, and serve it very hot. 

The turkey may be partially filled with the forcemeat No. 1 or 3, of 
Chapter VI., and the sausage-meat may then be placed on either side 
of it. 

Hen turkey between 7 and 8 lbs. weight, boned, filled with sausage- 
meat, 3 to 4 lbs. ; or with forcemeat No. 1, or with No. 3, Chapter VI., 
1 lb. (that is to say, 1 lb. of bread-crumbs, and the other ingredients in 
proportion.) Sausage-meat, 2 to 3 lbs. roasted 1| hour. 

Obs. — When a common spit is used for the turkey, it must be fas- 
tened /o, and not put upon it. 

Bread sauce can be served with the bird, or not, at pleasure. 

It will be found an improvement to moisten the sausage-meat with 
one or two spoonsful^of water : it should be finely minced, well spiced, 
and mixed with herb's, when the common forcemeat is not used in addi- 
tion. In preparing it a pound and a quarter of faft should be mixed with 
each pound of the lean. 



*J04 MODERN COOKERY. [_CHAP 

To give the turkey a very good appearance, the breast may be larded 
by the directions of page 139. 

TURKEY A LA FLAMANDE, OR, DINDE POUDREE. 

Prepare as for boiling a fine well-kept hen turkey ; wipe the inside 
thoroughly with a dry cloth, but do not wash it; throw in a little salt to 
draw out the blood, let it remain a couple of hours or more, then drain 
and wipe it again ; next, rub the outside in every part with about four 
ounces of line dry salt, mixed with a large tablespoonful of pounded 
su^ar; rub the turkey well with these, and turn it every day for four 
days ; then fill it entirely with equal parts of choice sausage-meat, and 
of the crumb of bread soaked in boiling milk or cream, and wrung dry 
in a cloth ; season these with the grated rind of a large lemon, a small 
nutmeg, some mace, cayenne, and fine herbs, in the same proportion as 
for veal forcemeat (No. 1, page 122.) Sew the turkey up very securely, 
and when trussed, roll it in a cloth, tie it closely at both ends, and boil 
it very gently between three and four hours. When taken up, sprinkle 
it thickly with fine crumbs of bread, mixed with plenty of parsley, shred 
extremely small. Serve it cold, with a sauce made of the strained 
juice and grated rind of two lemons, a teaspoonful of made-mustard, and 
one of pounded sugar, with as much oil as will prevent its being more 
than pleasantly acid, and a little salt, if needed ; work these together 
until perfectly mixed, and send them to table in a tureen. 

This receipt was given to us abroad, by a Flemish lady, who had had 
the dish often served with great success in Paris. We have inserted it 
on her authority, not on our own experience ; but we think it may be 
quite depended on. 

TO ROAST A GOOSE. 

After it has been picked and singed with care, put into the body of 
the goose two parboiled onions of mode- 
rate size, finely chopped, and mixed with 
half an ounce of minced sage-leaves, a 
saltspoonful of salt, and half as much black 
pepper, or a proportionate quantity of cay- 
enne ; to these add a small slice of fresh 
Goose ready for the Spit. butter. Truss the goose, and after it is on 
the spit, tie it firmly at both ends that it may turn steadily, and that the 
seasoning may not escape; roast it at a brisk fire, and keep it con- 
stantly basted. Serve it with brown gravy, and apple or tomata sauce. 
When the taste is in favour of a stronger seasoning than the above, 
which occurs, we apprehend, but seldom, use raw onions for it, and in- 
crease the quantity ; but should one still milder be preferred, mix a 
handful of fine bread-crumbs with the other ingredients, or two or three 
minced apples. The body of a goose is sometimes filled entirely with 
mashed potatoes, which, for this purpose, ought to be boiled very dry, 
and well blended with two or three ounces of butter, or with some thick 
cream, some salt, and white pepper or cayenne : to these minced sage 
and parboiled onions can also be added at pleasure. A teaspoonful of 
made-mustard, half as much of salt, and a small portion of cayenne, 
smoothly mixed with a glass of port wine, are sometimes poured into 
the goose just before it is served, through a cut made in the apron. 
1J to 1|- hour. 




-HAP. XII. J POULTRY. 205 

Obs. — We extract, for the benefit of our readers, from a work in our 
possession, the following passage, of which we have had no oppor- 
tunity of testing the correctness. " Geese, with sage and onions, may 
be deprived of power to breathe forth any incense, thus : — Pare from a 
lemon all the yellow rind, taking care not to bruise the fruit nor to cut 
so deeply as to let out the juice. Place this lemon in the centre of the 
seasoning within the bird. When or before it is brought to table, let 
the flap be gently opened, remove the lemon with a tablespoon ; avoid 
breaking, and let it instantly be thrown away, as its white pithy skin 
will have absorbed all the gross particles which else would have 
escaped." 

TO ROAST A GREEN GOOSE. 

Season the inside with a little pepper and salt, and roast the goose at 
a brisk fire from forty to fifty minutes. Serve it with good brown gravy 
only, and sorrel sauce. 

TO ROAST A FOWL. 

Strip off the feathers, and carefully pick every stump or plug from 
the skin, as nothing can be more uninviting than the appearance of any 
kind of poultry where this has been 
neglected, nor more indicative of slo- 
venliness on the part of the cook. 
Take off the head and neck close to 
the body, but leave sufficient of the 
skin to tie over the part that is cut. 
In drawing the bird, do not open it 
more than is needful, and use great Fowl for Roasting, 

precaution to avoid breaking the gall-bladder. Hold the less in boiling 
water for two or three minutes, that the skin may be peeled from them 
easily; cut off the claws, and then, with a bit of lighted writing-paper, 
singe off the hairs without blackening the fowl. Wash, and wipe it 
afterwards very dry, and let the liver and gizzard be made delicately 
clean, and fastened into the pinions. Truss, and spit it firmly ; flour 
it well when first laid to the fire, baste it frequently with butter, and 
when it is done, draw out the skewers, dish it, pour a little good gravy 
over, and send it to table with bread, mushroom, egg, chestnut, or olive 
sauce. A common mode of serving roast fowls in France is aux cres 
sons, that is, laid upon young water-cresses, which have previously been 
freed from the outer leaves, thoroughly washed, shaken dry in a clean 
cloth, and sprinkled with a little fine salt, and a small quantity of vine- 
gar : these should cover the dish, and after the fowls are placed on them, 
gravy should be poured over as usual. 

The body of a fowl may be filled with very small mushrooms pre- 
pared as for partridges (see partridges with mushrooms), then sewn up, 
roasted, and served with mushroom-sauce: this is an excellent mode of 
dressing it. A slice of fresh butter mixed with some salt and cayenne 
or pepper; a little rasped bacon ; or a bit or two of the lean of beef or 
veal minced, or cut into dice, may be put inside the bird when either is 
considered an improvement. An ounce or two of fresh butter smoothly 
mixed with a teaspoonful of really good mushroom-powder, a little 
pounded mace, salt, and cayenne, will impart much more of flavour to 
the fowl. 




206 



MODERN COOKERY. 



[CHAP. XII. 



Full-sized fowl, 1 hour : young chicken, 25 to 35 minutes. 

Obs. — As we have already observed in our general remarks on roast- 
ing, the time must be regulated by various circumstances, which we 
named, and which the cook should always take into consideration. A 
buttered paper phould be fastened over the breast, and removed about 
fifteen minutes before the fowl is served : this will prevent its taking 
too much colour. 

roast fowl; (a French Receipt.) 

Fill the breast of a fine fowl with good forcemeat, roast it as usuc 1, 
and when it is very nearly ready to serve take it from the fire, pour 
lukewarm butter over it in every part, and strew it thickly with very 
fine bread-crumbs; sprinkle these again with butter, and dip the fowl 
into more crumbs. Put it down to the fire, and when it is of a clear, 
light brown all over, take it carefully from the spit, dish, and serve it 
with lemon-sauce, and with gravy thickened and mixed with plenty of 
minced parsley, or with brown gravy and any other sauce usually served 
with fowls. Savoury herbs shred small, spice, and lemon-grate, may 
be mixed with the crumbs at pleasure. Do not pour gravy over the 
fowl when it is thus prepared. 

TO ROAST A GUINEA FOWL. 

Let the bird hang for as many days as the weather will allow ; then 
stuff', truss, roast, and serve it like a turkey, or leave the head on and 
lard the breast. Send gravy and bread-sauce to table with it in either 
case : it will be found excellent eating. 

| to 1 hour. 

FOWL A LA CARLSFORT. (ENTREE.) 

Bone a fowl without opening the back, and restore it to its original 
form by filling the vacant spaces in the legs and wings with forcemeat; 
put a roll of it also into the body, and a large sausage on either side; 
tie it very securely at both ends, truss it with fine skewers, and roast it 
ibr a full hour, keeping it basted plentifully with butter. When ap- 
pearance is not regarded, the pinions may be taken off, and the legs and 
wings drawn inside the fowl, which will then require a much smaller 
proportion of forcemeat : — that directed for veal (No. 1, page 122), will 
answer quite well in a general way, but for a dinner of ceremony, No. 
17 or 18 of the same Chapter should be used in preference. The fowl 
must be tied securely to the spit, not put upon it. Bone chickens are 
excellent when entirely filled with well-made mushroom-forcemeat, or 
very delicate and nicely seasoned sausage-meat; and either roasted or 
stewed. Brown gravy, or mushroom sauce should then be sent to table 
with them. 

BOILED FOWLS. 

White-legged poultry should al- 
ways be selected for boiling, as they 
are of better colour when dressed 
than any others. Truss them firmly 
nd neatly, with the le<fs drawn 
into the bodies, and the wings 
twisted over the backs; let them 
be well covered with water, which 
Fowls trussed for Boiling. should be hot, but not boiling when 



r£^K 




CHAP. XII.] POULTRY. 207 

they are put in. A full-sized fowl will require about three quarters of 
an hour from the time of its beginning to simmer ; but young chickens 
not more than from twenty to twenty-five minutes: they should be very 
gently boiled, and the scum should be removed with gieat care as it 
gathers on the surface of the water. Either of the following sauces 
may be sent to table with them : parsley and butter, bechamel, English 
white sauce, oyster, celery, or white-mushroom sauce. The fowls are 
often dished with small tufts of delicately-boiled cauliflower placed 
round them ; or with young vegetable marrow, scarcely larger than an 
Ggg, merely pared and halved after it is dressed : white sauce must be 
served with both of these. The livers and gizzards are not, at the 
present day, usually served in the wings of boiled fowls. When they 
are not so, the livers may be simmered for four or five minutes, then 
pressed to a smooth paste with a wooden spoon, and mixed very gradu- 
ally with the sauce, which should not boil after they are added. 

Full-sized fowl, f hour : young chickens, 20 to 25 minutes. 

Obs. — Half a gallon of cold added to an equal quantity of boiling 
water, will bring it to the proper degree of heat for putting in the 
fowls. For richer modes of boiling poultry, see Blanc and Foelee, 
Chapter VII. 

TO BROIL A CHICKEN OR FOWL. 

Either of these, when merely split and broiled, is very dry and unsa- 
voury eating; but will be greatly improved if first boiled gently from 
five to ten minutes and left to become cold, then divided, dipped into eo-o* 
and well seasoned bread-crumbs, plentifully sprinkled with clarified 
butter, dipped again into the crumbs, and broiled over a clear and gentle 
fire from half to three quarters of an hour. It should be served very 
hot, with mushroom-sauce, or with a little good plain gravy, which may 
be thickened and flavoured with a teaspoonful of mushroom powder 
(should it be at hand), mixed with half as much flour and a little butter ; 
or with some Espagnole. It should be opened at the back, and evenly 
divided quite through ; the legs should be trussed like those of a boiled 
fowl ; the breast-bone, or that of the back may be removed at pleasure, 
and both sides of the bird should be made as flat as they can, that the 
fire may penetrate every part equally; the inside should be first laid 
towards it. The neck, feet, and gizzard may be boiled down with a 
small quantity of onion and carrot previously browned in a morsel of 
butter, to make the gravy ; and the liver, after having been simmered 
with them for five or six minutes, may be used to thicken it after it is 
strained. A teaspoonful of lemon-juice, some cayenne, and minced 
parsley should be added to it, and a little arrow-root, or flour and butter. 

^ to | hour. 

FRICASSEED FOWLS OR CHICKENS. (ENTREE.) 

To make a fricassee of good appearance without great expense, pre- 
pare, with exceeding nicety, a couple of plump chickens, strip off the 
skin, and carve them very neatly. Reserve the wings, breasts, merry- 
thoughts, and thifhs; and stew down the inferior joints with a couple 
of blades of mace, a small bunch of savoury herbs, a few white pepper- 
corns, a pint and a half of water, and a small half-teaspoonful of salt. 
When something more than a third part reduced, strain the gravy, let 
it cool, and skim off every particle of fat. Arrange the joints which 



208 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XII. 

are tu be fricasseed in one layer, if it can be done conveniently, and 
pour to them as much of the gravy as will nearly cover them ; add the 
very thin rind of half a fine fresh lemon, and simmer the fowls gently 
from half to three quarters of an hour; throw in sufficient salt, pounded 
mace, and cayenne to give the sauce a good flavour, thicken it with a 
large teaspoonfal of arrow-root, and stir to it the third of a pint of rich 
boiling cream; then lift the stewpan from the fire, and shake it briskly 
round while the beaten yolks of three fresh eggs, mixed with a spoonful 
or two of cream, are added ; continue to shake the pan gently above 
the fire till the sauce is just set, but it must not be allowed to boil, or it 
will curdle in an instant. 
\ to | hour. 

CHICKEN CUTLETS. (ENTREE.) 

Skin, and cut into joints, one or two young chickens, and remove the 
bones with care from the breasts, merrythoughts, and thighs, which are 
to be separated from the legs. Mix well together a teaspoonful of salt, 
and nearly a fourth as much of mace, a little grated nutmeg, and cay- 
enne ; flatten, and form into good shape, the boned joints of chicken, 
and the flesh of the wings ; rub a little of the seasoning over them in 
every part, dip them into beaten egg, and then into very fine bread- 
crumbs, and fry them gently in fresh butter until they are of a delicate 
brown. Some of the bones and trimmings may be boiled down in half 
a pint of water, with a roll of lemon-peel, a little salt, and eight or ten 
white peppercorns, to make the gravy, which, after being strained and 
cleared from fat, may be poured hot to some thickening made in the 
pan with a slice of fresh butter and a dessertspoonful of flour : a tea- 
spoonful of mushroom-powder would improve it greatly, and a small 
quantity of lemon-pickle or juice should be added before it is poured 
out, with salt and cayenne if required. Pile the cutlets high in the 
middle of the dish, and serve the sauce under them, or in a tureen. 

CUTLETS OF FOWLS, PARTRIDOES, OR PIGEONS. (ENTREE.) 

{French Receipt.) 

Take closely off the flesh of the breast and wing together, on either 
side of the bone, and when you have thus raised the large fillets, as 
they are called, from three birds, which will give you but six cutlets, 
take the strips of flesh that lie under the wings, and that of the merry- 
thoughts, and flatten two or three of these together, that you may have 
nine cutlets at least, of equal size. When all are ready, fry to a pale 
brown as many diamond-shaped sippets of bread as there are fillets of 
fowl, and let them be quite as large; place these before the fire to dry, 
and wipe out the pan. Dip the cutlets into some yolks of eggs mixed 
with a little clarified butter, and strew them in every part with the 
finest bread-crumbs, moderately seasoned with salt, cayenne, and 
pounded mace. Dissolve as much good butter as will be required to 
dress them, and fry them in it of a light amber-colour : arrange them 
upon the sippets of bread, pile them high in the dish, and pour a rich 
brown gravy or Sauce Espagnole round, but not over them. 

FRIED CHICKEN A LA MALABAR. (ENTREE.) 

This is an Indian dish. Cut up the chicken, wipe it dry, and rub it 
well with currie-powder, mixed with a little salt; fry it in a bit of but- 



CHAP. XII.] POULTRY. 20fi 

ter, taking- care that it is of a nice light brown. In the meantime cut 
two or three onions into thin slices, draw them out into rings, and cut 
the ring's into little bits, about half an inch long ; fry them for a long 
time gently in a little bit of clarified butter, until they have gradually 
dried up and are of a delicate yellow-brown. Bo careful that they are 
not burnt, as the burnt taste of a single bit would spoil the flavour of 
the whole. When they are as dry as chips, without the least grease or 
moisture upon them, mix a little salt with them, strew them over the 
fried chicken, and serve up with lemon on a plate. 

We have extracted this receipt from a clever little work called the 
" Hand-Book of Cookery." 

HASHED FOWL. (ENTREE.) 

After having taken off, in joints, as much of a cold fowl or fowls as 
will suffice for a dish, bruise the bodies with a paste roller, pour to them 
a pint of water, and boil them for an hour and a half to two hours, with 
the addition of a little pepper and salt only, or with a small quantity of 
onion, carrot, and herbs. Strain, and skim the fat from the gravy, put 
it into a clean saucepan, and, should it require thickening, stir to it 
when it boils half a teaspoonful of flour, smoothly mixed with a small 
bit of butter; add a little mushroom catsup, or store-sauce, with a slight 
seasoning of mace or nutmeg. Lay in the fowl, and keep it near the 
fire until it is heated quite through, and is at the point of boiling : serve 
it with fried sippets round the dish. For a hash of higher relish, add 
to the bones, when they are first stewed down, a large onion, minced 
and browned in butter, and before the fowl is dished add some cayenne, 
and the juice of half a lemon. 

minced fowl, (entree.) (French Receipt.) 
Raise from the bones all the more delicate parts of the flesh of either 
cold roast, or cold boiled fowls, clear it from the skin, and keep it co- 
vered from the air until wanted for use. Boil the bones, well bruised, 
and the skin, with three quarters or a pint of water, until reduced quite 
half, then strain the gravy and let it cool ; next, having first skimmed 
off the fat, put it into a clean saucepan, with a quarter-pint of cream, 
an ounce and a half of butter, well mixed with a dessertspoonful of 
flour, a little pounded mace, and grated lemon-rind ; keep these stirred 
until they boil, then put in the fowl, finely minced, with three or four 
hard-boiled eggs, chopped small, and sufficient salt, and white pepper, 
or cayenne, to season it properly. Shake the mince over the fire until 
it is just ready to boil, stir to it quickly a squeeze of lemon-juice, dish 
it with pale sippets of fried bread, and serve it immediately. When 
cream cannot easily be obtained, use milk, with a double quantity of 
butter and flour. The eggs may be omitted; the mince may be warmed 
in good white sauce, and a border formed round it of leaves of pastry, 
fried or baked ; or it may be served in a vol-an-vent. Poached eggs are 
sometimes laid over it, and a garnish of curled bacon is placed round 
the edge. Another excellent variety of the dish is also made by co- 
vering the fowl thickly with very fine bread-crumbs, moistening them 
with clarified butter, and giving them colour with a salamander, or in 
a quick oven.* 

* For minced fowl and oysters, follow the receipt for veal, jvige 174. 

13 



2J0 MODERN COOKERV. [CHAP. XII. 

COLD FOWLS, EN FRITURE. 

Cut into joints, and take the skin from some cold fowls, lay them into 
a deep dish, strew over them a little fine salt and cayenne, add the juice 
of a lemon, and let them remain for an hour, moving- them occasionally, 
that they may all absorb a portion of the acid ; then dip them one by 
one into some French batter (see page 113), and fry them a pale brown 
over a gentle fire. Serve them garnished with very green crisped 
parsley. A few drops of eschalot vinegar may be mixed with the 
lemon-juice which is poured to the fowls, or slices of raw onion or 
eschalot, and small branches of sweet herbs may be laid amongst them, 
and cleared off before they are dipped into the batter. Gravy made of 
the trimmings, thickened, and well flavoured, may be sent to table with 
them in a tureen, and dressed bacon (see page 196,) in a dish apart. 

SCALLOPS OF FOWL, AU BECHAMEL. (ENTREE.) 

Raise the flesh from a couple of fowls, as directed for cutlets in the 
foregoing receipt, and take it as entire as possible from either side of 
the breast ; strip off the skin, lay the fillets flat, and slice them into 
small thin scallops; dip them one by one into clarified butter, and 
arrange them evenly in a delicately clean and not large frying-pan ; 
sprinkle a seasoning of fine salt over, and just before the dish is wanted 
for table, fry them quickly without allowing them to brown ; drain them 
well from the butter, pile them in the centre of a hot dish, and sauce 
them with some boiling bechamel. This dish may be quickly prepared 
by taking a ready-dressed fowl from the spit or stewpan, and by raising 
the fillets, and slicing the scallops into the boiling sauce before they 
have had time to cool. 

Fried, 3 to 4 minutes. 

GRILLADE OF COLD FOWLS. 

Carve and soak the remains of roast fowls as above, wipe thern dry, 
dip them into clarified butter, and then into fine bread-crumbs, and broil 
them gently over a very clear fire. A little finely-minced lean of ham, 
or grated lemon-peel, with a seasoning of cayenne, salt, and mace, mixed 
with the crumbs, will vary this dish agreeably. When fried, instead 
of broiled, the fowls may be dipped into yolk of egg, instead of butter, 
but this renders them too dry for the gridiron. 

cold fowls; (the Housekeeper's Receipt ,- a Supper Dish.) 
Cut very equally a sufficient number of slices from a cold ham, to 
form two or even three layers round the rim of the dish which is to be 
sent to table. Place the fowls, neatly carved and trimmed, in the 
centre, with some branches of curled parsley, or other light foliage 
amongst them. Cold tongue may be substituted for the ham with ad- 
vantage. This dish has a handsome appearance, and is convenient for 
the purpose of quick serving. 

FOWLS A LA MAYONNAISE. 

Carve with great nicety a couple of cold roast fowls; place the infe- 
rior joints, if they are served at all, close together in the middle of a 
dish, and arrange the others round and over them, piling them as high 
as you can in the centre. Border the dish with the hearts of young let- 
tuces cut in two, and hard-boiled eggs, halved lengthwise. At the mo- 




CHAP. XII.] POULTRY. 21 1 

ment of serving, pour over the fowls a well-made mayonnaise sauce 
(see page 104), or, if preferred, a salad mixture, compounded with thick 
cream, instead of oil. 

TO ROAST DUCKS. 

In preparing these for the spit, be careful to clear the skin entirely 
from the stumps of the feathers; take off the heads and necks, but leave 
the feet on, and hold them for a few 
minutes in boiling water to loosen the 
skin, which must be peeled oft' Wash 
the insides of the birds by pouring 
water through them, but merely wipe 
the outsides with a dry cloth. Put 
into the bodies a seasoning of par- 
boiled onions mixed with minced sage, 
salt, pepper, and a slice of butter, 
when this mode of dressing them is Ducks ready for the spit. 

liked; but as the taste of a whole party is seldom in its favour, one, 
when a couple are roasted, is often served without the stuffing. Cut 
oft' the pinions at the first joint from the bodies, truss the feet behind the 
backs, spit the birds firmly, and roast them at a brisk fire, but do not 
place them sufficiently near to be scorched ; baste them constantly, and 
when the breasts are well plumped, and the steam from them draws 
towards the fire, dish, and serve them quickly with a little good brown 
gravy poured round them, and some also in a tureen; or instead of this, 
with some which has been made with the necks, gizzards, and livers 
well stewed down, with a sligfit seasoning of browned onion, some 
herbs, and spice. 

Young ducks, h hour : full sized, from ^ to 1 hour. 

Obs. — Olive-sauce may be served with roast as w-elras with stewed 
ducks. 

STEWED DUCK. (ENTREE.) 

A couple of quite young ducks, or a fine full-grown, but still tender 
one, will be required for this dish. Cut either down neatly into joints, 
and arrange them, in a single layer if possible, in a widestewpan; pour 
in about three-quarters of a pint of strong, cold beef stock or gravy; let 
it be well cleared from scum when it begins to boil, then throw in a 
little salt, a rather full seasoning of cayenne, and a few thin strips of 
lemon-rind. Simmer the ducks very softly for three-quarters of an hour, 
or somewhat longer, should the joints be large; then stir into the gravy 
a tablespoonful of the finest rice-flour, mixed with a wineglassful or 
rather more of port wine, and a dessertspoonful of lemon-juice: in ten 
minutes after, dish the stew and send it to table instantly. 

The ducks may be served with a small portion only of their sauce, 
laid in a circle, with green peas a la Francaise, heaped high in the cen- 
tre; the lemon-rind and port wine should then be altogether omitted, 
and a small bunch of green onions and parsley, with two or three young 
carrots, may be stewed down with the birds; or three or four minced 
eschalots, delicately fried in butter, may be used to flavour the gravy. 
Turnips an beurre, prepared by the receipt of Chapter XV., may be 
substituted for the peas; and a well-made Espagnole may take the 
place of beef stock, when a dish of high savour is wished for. A duck 
is often stewed without being divided into joints. It should then bo 




212 MODERN COOKERY. fCHAP. XII. 

firmly trussed, half roasted at a quick fire, and laid into the stewpan as 
it is taken from the spit; or well browned in some French thickening - , 
then half covered with boiling- gravy, and turned when partially done: 
from an hour to an hour and a quarter will stew it well. 

TO ROAST PIGEONS. 

These, as we have already said, should be 
dressed while they are very fresh. If ex- 
tremely young they will be ready in twelve 
hours tor the spit, otherwise, in twenty-four. 
Take oft* the heads and necks, and cut off 
| the toes at the first joint: draw them care- 
KhhJ) ft^ty' tnat tne gall-bladders may not be 

broken, and pour plenty of water through 
Pigeons for roasting. ' . [. l , J . . ""6" 

them; wipe them dry, and put into each 

bird a small bit of butter lightly dipped into a little cayenne (formerly it 

was rolled in minced parsley, but this is no longer the fashionable mode 

of preparing- them.) Truss the wings over the backs, and roast them 

at a brisk fire, keeping- them well and constantly basted with butter. 

Serve them with brown gravy, and a tureen of parsley and butter. For 

the second course, dish them upon young- water-cresses, as directed for 

roast fowl aux cressons, page 205. About twenty minutes will roast 

them. 

18 to 20 minutes ; five minutes long-er, if large ; rather less, if very 

young-. 

BOILED PI« EONS. 

Truss them like boiled fowls, drop them into plenty of boiling- water, 
throw in a little salt, and in fifteen minutes lift them out, pour parsley 
and butter over, and send a tureen of it to table with them. 

TO STEW PIGEONS. 

Wash and clean six pig-eons, cut them into quarters, and put all their 
g-iblets with them into a stewpan, a piece of butter, a little water, a bit 
of lemon-peel, two blades of mace, some chopped parsley, salt, and pep- 
per; cover the pan closely, and stew them till they are tender ; thicken 
the sauce with the yolk of an eg-g- beaten up with three table-spoonsful 
of cream and a bit of butter dusted with flour; let them stew ten 
minutes longer before serving-. This is an excellent and economical 
way of cooking them. 



CHAPTER XIII. 
GAME. 



TO CHOOSE GAME. 



Buck venison, which is in season only from June to Michaelmas, is 
considered finer than doe venison, which comes into the market in 
October, and remains in season through November and December: 
neither should be cooked at any other part of the year. The greater 
the depth of fat upon the haunch the better the quality of the meat will 



CHAP. XIII.] GAME. 213 

be, provided it be clear and white, and the lean of a dark hue. If the 
cleft of the hoof, which is always left on the joint, be small and smooth, 
the animal is young- ; but it is old when the marks are the reverse of 
these.* Although the haunch is the prime and favourite joint of veni- 
son, the neck and shoulder are also excellent, stewed in various ways, 
or made into pasties. If kept to the proper point, and well dressed, this 
is the most tender of all meat; but care is necessary to bring it into a 
fitting state for table without its becoming offensive. A free current of 
air in a larder is always a great advantage, as it assists materially in 
preserving the sweetness of every thing which is kept in it, while a 
close damp atmosphere, on the contrary, is more destructive of animal 
food of all kinds even than positive heat. The fumes of creosote are 
said to be an admirable preservative against putrescence, but we have 
not ourselves yet had experience of the fact. All moisture should be 
wiped daily, or even more frequently, from the venison, with soft cloths, 
when any appears upon the surface; and every precaution must be 
taken to keep off the flies, when the joint is not hung in a wire-safe. 
Black pepper thickly powdered on it will generally answer the purpose: 
with common care, indeed, meat may always be protected from their 
attacks, and to leave it exposed to them in warm weather is altogether 
inexcusable in the cook. 

Hares and rabbits are stiff when freshly killed, and if young, the 
ears tear easily, and the claws are smooth and sharp. A hare in cold 
weather will remain good from ten to fourteen days ; care only must be 
taken to prevent the inside from becoming musty, which it will do if it 
has been emptied in the field. Pigeons, partridges, and other game 
may be chosen by nearly the same tests as poultry : by opening the bill, 
the staleness will be detected easily if they have been too long kept. 
With few exceptions, game depends almost entirely for the fine flavour 
and the tenderness of its flesh, on the time which it is allowed to hang 
before it is cooked, and it is never good when very fresh ; but it does 
not follow that it should be sent to table in a really offensive state, for 
this is agreeable to few eaters and disgusting to many, and nothing 
should afany time be served of which the appearance or the odour may 
destroy the appetite of any person present. 

TO ROAST A HAUNCH OF VENISON. 

To give venison the flavour and the tenderness so much prized by 
epicures, it must be well kept ; and by taking the necessary precau- 
tions, it will hang a conside- ^ 



rable time without detriment. 
Wipe it with soft dry cloths 
wherever the slightest moist- 
ure appears on the surface, 
and dust it plentifully with 
freshly-ground pepper or pow- 
dered ginger, to preserve it 
from the flies. The application of the pyroligneous or ascetic acid 
would effectually protect it from these, as well as from the effects of 

* It must, be observed that venison is not in perfection when young : like mutton, it 
requires to be of a certain ajre before it is brought to table. The word cleft applies also 
to the thickest part of the haunch, and it is the depth of the fat on this which decides 
the quality of the joint. 




214 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XIII. 

the weather; but the joint must then be not only well washed, but 
soaked some considerable time, and this would be injurious to it: the 
acid, therefore, should only be resorted to for the purpose of restoring to 
an eatable state that which would otherwise be lost, from having- been 
kept beyond the point in which it is possible to serve it. 

To prepare the venison for the spit, wash it slightly with tepid water, 
or merely wipe it thoroughly with damp cloths, and dry it afterwards 
with clean ones ; then lay over the fat side a large sheet of thickly- 
buttered paper, and next a paste of flour and water about three quarters 
of an inch thick; cover this again with two or three sheets of stout 
paper, secure the whole well with twine, and lay the haunch to a sound 
clear fire; baste the paper immediately with butter, or clarified drip- 
ping, and roast the joint from three hours and a half to four and a half, 
according to its weight and quality. Doe venison will require half an 
hour less time than buck venison. Twenty minutes before the joint is 
done remove the paste and paper, baste the meat in every part with 
butter, and dredge it very lightly with flour ; let it take a pale brown 
colour, and send it to table as hot as possible with unflavoured gravy in 
a tureen, and good currant-jelly. It is not now customary to serve any 
other sauces with it ; but should the old-fashioned sharp or sweet sauce 
be ordered, the receipt for it will be found at page 88.* 

3^ to 4^ hours. 

TO STEW r A SHOULDER OF VENISON. 

Bone the joint, by the directions given for a shoulder of veal or mut- 
ton (see page 166) ; flatten it on a table, season it well with cayenne, 
salt, and pounded mace, mixed with a very small proportion of allspice ; 
lay over it thin slices of the fat of a loin of well-fed mutton, roll and 
bind it tightly, lay it into a vessel nearly of its size, and pour to it as 
much good stock made with equal parts of beef and mutton as will 
nearly cover it; stew it as slowly as possible from three hours to three 
and a half or longer, should it be very large, and turn it when it is half 
done. Dish and serve it with a good Espagnole, made with part of the 
gravy in which it has been stewed; or thicken this slightly with rice- 
flour, mixed with a glass or more of claret or of port wine, and as much 
salt and cayenne as will season the gravy properly. 

Some cooks soak the slices of mutton-iat in wine before they are laid 
upon the joint; but no process of the sort will ever give to any kind of 
meat the true flavour of the venison, which to most eaters is far finer 
than that of the wine, and should always be allowed to prevail over all 
the condiments with which it is dressed. Those, however, who care 
for it less than for a dish of high artificial savour, can have eschalots, 
ham, and carrot, lightly browned in good butter, added to the stew when 
it first begins to boil. 

3^ to 4 hours. 

TO HASH VENISON.t 

For a superior hash of venison, add to three quarters of a pint of 
strong thickened brown gravy, Christopher North's sauce, in the propor- 

* Plates of minced eschalots are still sometimes handed round to the venison-eaters, 
but not at very refined tables, we believe, 
t Minced collops of venison may be prepared exactly like those of beef; and venison- 
utlets like those of mutton : the neck may be taken for both of these. 



CHAP. XIII.] GAME- 215 

tion directed for in the receipt of page 102. Cut the venison in small 
thin slices of equal size, arrange them in a clean saucepan, pour the 
gravy on them, let them stand for ten minutes or more, then place them 
near the fire, and bring the whole very slowly to the point of boiling 
only: serve the hash immediately in a hot-water dish. 

For a plain dinner, when no gravy is at hand, break down the bones 
of the venison small, after the flesh has been cleared from them, and 
boil them with those of three or four undressed mutton-cutlets, a slice 
or two of carrot, or a few savoury herbs, and about a pint and a half of 
water or broth, until the liquid is reduced quite one third. Strain it off, 
let it cool, skim oft* all the fat, heat the gravy, thicken it when it boils 
with a dessertspoonful or rather more of arrow-root, or with the brown 
mux of page 92, mix the same sauce with it, and finish it exactly as 
the richer hash above. It may be served on sippets of fried bread or 
not, at choice. 

TO ROAST A HARE. 

After the hare has been skinned, or cased, as it is called, wash it very 
thoroughly in cold water, and afterwards in warm. If in any degree 
overkept, or musty in the inside, which it will sometimes be when emp- 
tied before it is hung 
up, and neglected after- 
wards, use vinegar, or 
the pyrol igneous acid, 
well diluted, to render 
it sweet ; then again 
throw it into abundance 
of water, that it may 
retain no taste of the 
acid. Pierce with the 
point of a knife any 
parts in which the blood 
appears to have settled, Hare Dressed for Roasting, 

and soak them in tepid water, that it may be well drawn out. Wipe 
the hare dry, fill it with the forcemeat No. 1, page 122, sew it up, truss 
and spit it firmly, baste it for ten minutes with lukewarm water, mixed 
with a very little salt, throw this away, and put into the pan a quart or 
more of new milk; keep it constantly laded over the hare, until it is 
nearly dried up, then add a large lump of butter, flour the hare, and 
continue the basting steadily until it is well browned ; for unless this be 
done, and the roast be kept at a proper distance from the fire, the out- 
side will become so dry and hard as to be quite uneatable. Serve the 
hare when done, with good brown gravy (of which a little should be 
poured round it in the dish), and with fine red currant jelly. This is an 
approved English method of dressing it, but we would recommend in 
preference, that it should be basted plentifully with butter from the be- 
ginning (the strict economist may substitute clarified beef-dripping, and 
finish with a small quantity of butter only); and that the salt and water 
should be altogether omitted. Firstrate cooks merely wipe the hare 
inside and out, and rub it with its own blood before it is laid to the fire ; 
but there is generally a rankness about it, especially after it has been 
many days killed, which, we should say, renders the washing indis- 
pensable, unless a coarse game-flavour be liked. 

11 to 1 1 hour. 




216 



MODERN COOKERY. 



TCHAP. XIII. 



TO ROAST A RABBIT. 

This, like a hare, is much improved by having the back-bone taken 
out, and the directions we have given will enable the cook, with very- 
little practice, to remove it without difficulty. Line the inside, when 
this is done, with thin slices of bacon, fill it with forcemeat (No. 1, page 
122), sew it up, truss, and roast it at a clear, brisk fire, and baste it 
constantly with butter. Flour it well soon after it is laid down. Serve 
it with o-ood brown gravy, and with currant jelly, when this last is 
liked. For change, the back of the rabbit may be larded, and the bone 
left in, or not, at pleasure; or it can be plain roasted when more con- 
venient. 

| to 1 hour; less, if small. 

TO BOIL RABBITS. 

Rabbits that are three parts grown, or, at all events, which are still 
quite young, should be chosen for this mode of cooking. Wash and 

soak them well, truss 
them firmly, with the 
heads turned and 
skewered to the sides, 
drop them into plenty 
of boiling water, and 
simmer them gently 
from thirty to forty- 
five minutes: when 
very young they will 




*&*& 



Rabbit Trussed for Boiling. 

require even less time than this. Cover them with rich white sauce, 
mixed with the livers parboiled, and finely pounded, and well seasoned 
with cayenne and lemon-juice; or with white onion sauce, or with 
parsley and butter, made with milk or cream, instead of water, (the 
livers, minced, are often added to the last of these,) or with good mush- 
room sauce. 

30 to 45 minutes. 

FRIED RABBIT. 

After the rabbit has been emptied, thoroughly washed, and well 
soaked, blanch it, that is to say, put it into boiling water, and let it boil 
from five to seven minutes ; drain it, and when cold, or nearly so, cut it 
into joints, dip them into beaten egg, and then into fine bread-crumbs, 
seasoned with salt and pepper, and when all are ready, fry them in 
butter over a moderate fire, from twelve to fifteen minutes. Simmer 
two or three strips of lemon-rind in a little gravy, until it is well fla- 
voured with it; boil the liver of the rabbit for five minutes, let it cool, 
and then mince it; thicken the gravy with an ounce of butter, and a 
small teaspoonful of flour, add the liver, give the sauce a minute's boil, 
stir in two tablespoonsful of cream, if at hand, and, last of all, a small 
quantity of lemon-juice. Dish the rabbit, pour the sauce under it, and 
serve it quickly. If preferred, a gravy can be made in the pan, ai for 
veal cutlets, and the rabbit may be simply fried. 

TO ROAST PARTRIDGES. 

Let the birds hang as long as they can possibly be kept without be- 
coming offensive ; pick them carefully, draw, and singe them ; wipe the 




CHAP. XIII.] GAME. 217 

insides thoroughly with a clean cloth; truss them with the head turned 
under the wing and the legs drawn close together or crossed. Flour 
them when first laid to the tire, and haste them 
plentifully with hatter. Serve them with bread 
sauce, and good brown gravy : a little of this 
last should be poured over them. In some 
instances they are dished upon fried bread- 
crumbs, but these are better handed round the 
table by themselves. Where game is plenti- 
ful we recommend that the remains of a cold 
roasted partridge should be well bruised and a Partridge Trussed for 
boiled down with just so much water, or unrla- Roasting, 

voured broth, as will make gravy for a couple of other birds : this, sea- 
soned with salt and cayenne only, or flavoured with a few mushrooms, 
will be found a very superior accompaniment for roast partridges, to 
the best meat-gravy that can be made. A little eschalot, and a few 
herbs can be added to it at pleasure. It should be served olso with 
boiled or with broiled partridges in preference to any other. 

30 to 40 minutes. 

Obs. — Rather less time must be allowed when the birds are liked 
underdressed. In preparing them for the spit, the crop must be re- 
moved through a slit cut in the back of the neck, the claws clipped 
close, and the legs held in boiling water for a minute, that they may he 
skinned the more easily. 

BOILED PARTRIDGES. 

This is a delicate mode of dressing young and tender birds. Strip 
off the feathers, clean, and wash them well ; cut off the heads, truss 
them like boiled fowls, and when ready, drop them into a large pan of 
boiling water; throw a little salt on them, and in fifteen, or at the ut- 
most in eighteen minutes they will be ready to serve. Lift them out, 
dish them quickly, and send them to table with white mushroom-sauce, 
with bread sauce and game gravy (see preceding receipt), or with 
celery sauce. Our own mode of having them served is usually with a 
slice of fresh butter, about a tablespoonful of lemon-juice, and a good 
sprinkling of cayenne placed in a very hot dish, under them. 

15 to 18 minutes. 

PARTRIDGES WITH MUSHROOMS. 

For a brace of young well-kept birds, prepare from half to three quar- 
ters of a pint of mushroom-buttons, or very small flaps, as lor pickling 
Dissolve over a gentle fire an ounce and a half of butter, throw in the 
mushrooms with a slight sprinkling of salt and cayenne, simmer them 
from eight to ten minutes, and turn the.m, with the butter, on to a plate; 
when they are quite cold, put the whole into the bodies of the partridges, 
sew them up, truss them securely, and roast them on a vertical jack 
with the heads downwards; or should an ordinary spit be used, tie them 
firmly to it, instead of passing it through them. Roast them the usual 
time, and serve them with brown mushroom-sauce, or with gravy and 
bread sauce only. The birds may be trussed like boiled fowls, floured, 
and lightly browned in butter; half covered with rich brown gravy and 
stewed slowly for thirty minutes; then turned, and simmered for ano- 
ther half hour with the addition of some mushrooms to the gravy; or 



218 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XIII. 

they may be covered with small mushrooms stewed apart, when they 
are sent to table. They can also be served with their sauce only, simply 
thickened with a small quantity of fresh butter, smoothly mixed with 
less than a tea spoonful of arrow-root and flavoured with cayenne and a 
little catsup, wine, or store-sauce. 

Partridges, 2; mushrooms, ^ to £ pint; butter, 1J oz. ; little mace 
and cayenne : roasted 30 to 40 minutes, or stewed 1 hour. 

06s. — Nothing- can be finer than the game flavour imbibed by the 
mushrooms with which the birds are filled, in this receipt. 

broiled partridge; {Breakfast dish.) 
" Split a young and well-kept partridge, and wipe it with a soft clean 
cloth inside and out, but do not wash it; broil it delicately over a very 
clear fire, sprinkling it with a little salt and cayenne ; rub a bit of fresh 
butter over it the moment it is taken from the fire, and send it quickly 
to table with a sauce made of a good slice of butter browned with flour, 
a little water, cayenne, salt, and mushroom-catsup, poured over it." 
We give this receipt exactly as we received it from a house where we 
know it to have been greatly approved by various guests who have par- 
taken of it there. 

broiled partridge : (French Receipt.) 
After having prepared the bird with great nicety, divided, and flat- 
tened it, season it with salt, and pepper, or cayenne, dip it into clarified 
butter, and then into very fine bread-crumbs, and take care that every 
part shall be equally covered : if wanted of particularly good appear- 
ance, dip it a second time into the butter and crumbs. Place it over a 
very clear fire, and broil it gently from twenty to thirty minutes. Send 
it to table with brown mushroom sauce, or some Espagnole. 

[to roast wild pigeons. 

Pigeons, when stuffed, require some green parsley to be chopped very 
fine with the liver and a bit of butter, seasoned with a little pepper and 
salt ; or they may be stuffed with the same as a fillet of veal. Fill the 
belly of each bird with either of these compositions. They will roast in 
about twenty or thirty minutes. Serve with parsley and butter, with a 
dish under them, with some in a boat. Garnish with crisp parsley, 
fried bread crumbs, bread sauce or gravy. 

TO roast small birds. 

The most delicate of these are larks, which are in high season in 
November and December. When cleaned and prepared for roasting, 
brush them with the yolk of an egg, and roll in bread crumbs; spit 
them on a lark-spit, and tie that on a larger spit; ten or fifteen minutes 
at a quick fire will do them ; baste them with fresh butter, and sprinkle 
them with bread crumbs, till they are quite covered, while roasting. 
Sauce, grated bread fried in butter, which set to drain before the fire 
that it may harden ; serve the crumbs under the larks when you dish 
them, and garnish them with slices of lemon. Wheatears are dressed 
in the same way. 

REED BntDS. 

Having carefully picked your birds, which should be very fat, draw 
them with the greatest care possible so as not to rob them of any fat, 



CHAP. XIII.] GAME. 219 

and truss them on a skewer, which you fasten to the spit, and cook 
them before a brisk fire; a very few minutes is requisite. In serving 
them, place them on buttered toast, and pour a small portion of gravy 
over them. Let them be hot. This is generally considered the best 
manner of serving reed-birds, although many persons prefer them 
breaded and fried, or barbacued. When they are very fat it is unne- 
cessary to draw them. The season for this delicious bird is from trie 
middle of September to the first or second week in October.] 

Obs. — There are few occasions, we think, in which the contents of 
the dripping-pan can be introduced at table with advantage; but in 
dressing moor game, we would strongly recommend the toast to be laid 
in it under the birds, as it will afford a superior relish even to the birds 
themselves. 

A SALMI OF MOOR FOWL, PHEASANTS, OR PARTRIDGES. (ENTREE.) 

This is an elegant mode of serving the remains of roasted game, but 
when a superlative salmi is desired, the birds must be scarcely more 
than half roasted for it. In either case, carve them very neatly, and 
strip every particle of skin and fat from the legs, wings, and breasts ; 
bruise the bodies well, and put them with the skin, and other trimmings, 
into a very clean stew-pan. If for a simple and inexpensive dinner, 
merely add to them two or three sliced eschalots, a bay-leaf, a small 
blade of mace, and a few peppercorns; then pour in a pint, or rather 
more, of good veal gravy, or strong broth, and boil it briskly until 
reduced nearly half; strain the gravy, pressing the bones well, to obtain 
all the flavour, skim off the fa£ add a little cayenne, and lemon-juice, 
heat the game very gradually, in it, but do not, on any account, allow 
it to boil ; place sippets of fried bread round a dish, arrange the birds in 
good form in the centre, give the sauce a boil, and pour it on them. 
This is but a homely sort of salmi, though of excellent flavour if well 
made ; it may require perhaps the addition of a little thickening, and 
two or three glasses of dry white wine poured to the bodies of the birds, 
with the broth, would bring it nearer to the French salmi in flavour. 
As the spongy substance in the inside of moor fowl and black game is 
apt to be extremely bitter, when they have been long kept, care should 
be taken to remove such parts as would endanger the preparation. 

TO ROAST CANVASS-BACK DUCKS. 

Let your duck be young and fat, if possible; having picked it well, 
draw it and singe carefully, without washing it, so as to preserve the 
blood, and consequently, all its flavour. You then truss it, leaving its 
head on for the purpose of distinguishing it from common game,°and 
place it on the spit before a brisk fire, for at least fifteen minutes. Then 
serve it hot, in its own gravy, on a large chafing-dish. The best birds 
are found on the Potomac River; they have the head purple, and the 
breast silver colour, and it is considered superior in quality and flavour 
to any other species of wild duck. The season is only during the cold 
weather. 

TO ROAST WILD DUCKS. 

These are prepared for the spit exactly like the tame ones, with the 
exception of the stuffing, which is never used for wild fowl. A bit of 
soft bread soaked in port wine, or in claret, is sometimes put into them, 




220 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XIII. 

but nothing* more. Flour them well, lay them rather near to a very 
clear and brisk fire, that they may be quickly browned, and yet retain 
their juices. Baste them plentifully and constantly with butter, and, 
if it can be so regulated, let the spit turn with them rapidly. From 
fifteen to twenty minutes will roast them sufficiently for the generality 
of eaters; but tor those who object to them much underdressed, a few 
additional minutes must be allowed. Something less of time will suffice 
when they are prepared for persons who like them scarcely more than 
heated through. 

Teal, which is a more delicate kind of wild fowl, is roasted in the 
same way: in from ten to fifteen minutes it will be enough done for the 
fashionable mode of serving it, and twenty minutes will dress it well at 
a good fire. 

TO ROAST WOODCOCKS OR SNIPES. 

Handle them as little and as 
lightly as possible, and pluck 
off* the feathers gently ; for if 
this be violently done the skin 
of the birds will be broken. 
Do not draw them, but after 
having wiped them with clean 
soft cloths, truss them with the 
head under the wing, and the 
bill laid close along the breast ; 
Woodcock. pass a slight skewer through 

the thighs, catch the ends with a bit of twine, and tie it across to keep 
the legs straight. Suspend the birds with the feet downwards to a 
bird-spit, flour them well, and baste them with butter, which should be 
ready dissolved in the pan or ladle. Before the trail begins to drop, 
which it will do as soon as they are well heated, lay a thick round of 
bread, freed from the crust, toasted to a delicate brown, and buttered on 
both sides, into the pan under them to catch it, as this is considered finer 
eating even than the flesh of the birds ; continue the basting, letting the 
butter fall from them into the basting-spoon or ladle, as it cannot be 
collected again from the dripping-pan should it drop there, in conse- 
quence of the toast or toasts being in it. There should be one of these 
for each woodcock, and the trail should be spread equally over itv 
When the birds are done, which they will be, at a brisk fire, in from 
twenty to twenty-five minutes, lay the toasts into a very hot dish, dress 
the birds upon them, pour a little gravy round the bread, and send more 
to table in a tureen. 

Woodcock, 20 to 25 minutes; snipe, 5 minutes less. 

TO ROAST THE PINTAIL, OR SEA PHEASANT. 

This beautiful bird is by no means rare upon the coast, but we know 
not whether it be much seen in the markets generally. It is most ex- 
cellent eating, and should be roasted at a clear quick fire, well floured 
when first laid down, turned briskly, and basted with butter almost 
without cessation. If drawn from the spit in from twenty-five to thirty 
minutes, then dished and laid before the fire for two or three more, it 
will give forth a singularly rich gravy. Score the breast when it is 



CHAP. XIV. ~] CURRIES, POTTED MEATS, &C. 221 

carved, sprinkle on it a little cayenne and fine salt, and let a cut lemon 
be handed round the table when the bird is served ; or omit the scoring, 
and send round with it brown gravy, and Christopher North's sauce 
made hot. 

20 to 30 minutes. 



CHAPTER XIV. 
CURRIES, POTTED MEATS, &c. 

The great superiority of the oriental curries over those generally 
prepared in Europe or America, is not, we believe, altogether the result 
of a want of skill or of experience on the part of our cooks, but is 
attributable, in some measure, to many of the ingredients, which in a 
fresh and green state add so much to their excellence, being here 
beyond our reach. 

The natives of the East compound and vary this class of dishes, we 
are told, with infinite ingenuity, blending in them very agreeably many 
condiments of different flavour, until the highest degree of piquancy 
and savour is produced, the whole being tempered with fine vegetable 
acids. With us, turmeric and cayenne pepper prevail in them often far 
too powerfully : the prodigal use of the former should be especially 
avoided, as it injures both the quality and the colour of the currie, 
which ought to be of a dark green, rather than of a red or yellow hue. 
The first is given by the genuine powder imported from India; the 
others, by the greater number of spurious ones, sold in England and 
America under its name. A couple of ounces of a sweet, sound cocoa- 
nut, lightly grated and stewed for nearly or quite an hour in the gravy 
of a currie, is a great improvement to its flavour : it will be found par- 
ticularly agreeable with that of sweetbreads, and may be served in the 
currie, or strained from it at pleasure. Great care, however, should be 
taken not to use, for the purpose, a nut that is rancid. Spinage, cu- 
cumbers, vegetable marrow, tomatas, acid apples, green gooseberries 
(seeded), and tamarinds imported in the shell — not preserved — may all, 
in their season, be added with very good effect to curries of different 
kinds. Potatoes and celery are also occasionally boiled down in them. 

The rice for a currie should always be sent to table in a separate 
dish from it, and, in serving them, it should be first helped, and the cur- 
rie laid upon it. 

MR. ARNOTT'S CURRIE-POWDER. 

Turmeric, eight ounces.* 
Coriander seed, four ounces. 
Cummin seed, two ounces. 
Foenugreek seed, two ounces. 
Cayenne, half an ounce. (More or less of this 
last to the taste.) 

* We tliink it would be an improvement to diminish by two ounces the proportion 
of turmeric, and to increase that of the coriander seed; but we have not tried it. 



222 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP XIV. 

Let the seeds be of the finest quality. Dry them well, pound, and 
sift them separately through a lawn sieve, then weigh, and mix them 
in the above proportions. This is an exceedingly agreeable and aro- 
matic powder, when all the ingredients are perfectly fresh and good ; 
but the preparing it is rather a troublesome process. Mr. Arnott re- 
commends that when it is considered so, a " high-caste" chemist should 
be applied to for it. 

MR. ARNOTt's CURRIE. 

"Take the heart of a cabbage, and nothing but the heart, that is to 
say, pull away all the outside leaves until it is about the size of an egg ; 
chop it fine, add to it a couple of apples sliced thin, the juice of one 
iemon, half a teaspoonful of black pepper, with one large tablespoonful 
of my currie-powder, and mix the whole well together. Now take six 
onions that have been chopped fine and fried brown, a garlic head, the 
size of a nutmeg, also minced fine, two ounces of fresh butter, two table- 
spoonsful of flour, and one pint of strong mutton or beef gravy ; and 
when these articles are boiling, add the former ingredients, and let the 
whole be well stewed up together: if not hot enough, add cayenne 
pepper. Next, put in a fowl that has been roasted and nicely cut up ; 
or a rabbit ; or some lean chops of pork or mutton ; or a lobster, or the 
remains of yesterday's calf's head; or anything else you may fancy, 
and you will have an excellent currie, fit for kings to partake of." 

" Well ! now for the rice ! It should be put into water which should 
be frequently changed, and should remain in for half an hour at least ; 
this both clears and soaks it. Have your saucepan full of water (the 
larger the better,) and when it boils rapidly, throw the rice into it : it 
will be done in fifteen minutes. Strain it into a dish, wipe the sauce- 
pan dry, return the drained rice into it, and put it over a gentle fire for 
a few minutes, with a cloth over it: every grain will be separate. 
When served, do not cover the dish." 

Obs. — We have already given testimony to the excellence of Mr. 
Arnott's currie-powder, but we think the currie itself will be found 
somewhat too acid for English or American taste in general, and the 
proportion of onion and garlic by one half too much for any but well- 
seasoned Anglo-Indian palates. After having tried his method of boil- 
ing the rice, we still give the preference to that of page 54, Chapter I. 

A BENGAL CURRIE. 

Slice and fry three large onions in two ounces of butter, and lift them 
out of the pan when done. Put into a stewpan three other large onions 
and a small clove of garlic which have been pounded together, and 
smoothly mixed with a dessertspoonful of the. best pale turmeric, a tea- 
spoonful of powdered ginger, one of salt, and one of cayenne pepper ; 
add to these the butter in which the onions were fried, and half a cup- 
ful of good gravy; let them stew for about ten minutes, taking care 
that they shall not burn. Next, stir to them the fried onions and half 
a pint more of gravy ; add a pound and a half of mutton, or of any 
other meat, free from bone and fat, and simmer it gently for an houi, or 
more should it not then be perfectly tender. 

Fried onions, 3 large ; butter, 2 ozs. ; onions, pounded, 3 large ; gar- 
lic, 1 clove; turmeric, 1 dessertspoonful; powdered ginger, salt, cay- 



CHAP. XIV.] CURRIES, POTTED MEATS, &C. 223 

enne, each 1 teaspoonful ; gravy, ^ cupful : 10 minutes. Gravy, i pint; 
meat, lh lb. : 1 hour or more. 

A COMMON INDIAN CURRIE. 

For each pound of meat, whether veal, mutton, or beef, take a heaped 
tablespoonful of good currie powder, a small teaspoonful of salt, and one 
of flour ; mix these well together, and after having cut down the meat 
into thick small cutlets, or squares, rub half of the mixed powder equally 
over it. Next, fry gently from one to four or five large onions sliced, 
with or without the addition of a small clove of garlic, or half a dozen 
eschalots, according to the taste ; and when they are of a fine golden 
brown, lift them out with a slice and lay them upon a sieve to drain ; 
throw a little more butter into the pan and fry the meat lightly in it ; 
drain it well from the fat in taking it out, and lay it into a clean stewpan 
or saucepan ; strew the onion over it, and pour in as much boiling water 
as will almost cover it. Mix the remainder of the currie-powder 
smoothly with a little broth or cold water, and after the currie has 
stewed for a few minutes pour it in, shaking the pan well round that it 
may be smoothly blended with the gravy. Simmer the whole very 
softly until the meat is perfectly tender : this will be in from an hour 
and a quarter, to two hours and a half, according to the quantity and the 
nature of the meat. Mutton will be the soonest done ; the brisket end 
(gristles) of a breast of veal will require twice as much stewing, and 
sometimes more. A fowl will be ready to serve in an hour. An acid 
apple or two, or any of the vegetables which we have enumerated at 
the commencement of this chapter, may be added to the currie, proper 
time being allowed for cooking each variety. Very young green peas 
are liked by some people in it ; and cucumbers pared, seeded, and cut 
moderately small, are always a good addition. A richer currie will of 
course be produced if gravy or broth be substituted for the water: either 
should be boilino- when poured to the meat. Lemon-juice should be 
stirred in before it is served, when there is no other acid in the currie. 
A dish of boiled rice must be sent to table with it. A couple of pounds 
of meat free from bone, is sufficient quite for a moderate-sized dish of 
this kind, but those of the breast of veal are sometimes used for it, 
when it is to be served to a large family-party of currie-eaters : from 
half to a whole pound of rice should then accompany it. For the pro- 
per mode of boiling it, see mullagatawny soup, Chapter I. The small 
grained, or Patna, is the kind which ought to be used for the purpose. 
Six ounces is quite sufficient for a not large currie; and a pound, when 
boiled, and heated lightly in a dish, appears an enormous quantity for a 
modern table. 

To each pound of meat, whether veal, mutton, or beef, 1 heaped 
tablespoonful of good currie-powder, 1 small teaspoonful of salt, and a 
large one of flour, to be well mixed, and half rubbed on to the meat 
before it is fried, the rest added afterwards ; onions fried, from 1 to 4 or 
5 (with or without the addition of a clove of garlic, or half a dozen 
eschalots); sufficient boiling water to nearly cover the meat; vegeta- 
bles, as in receipt, at choice; stewed, 1^ to 2^ hours' a fowl, 1 hour, or 
rather less; beef, 2 lbs., li hour, or more; veal gristles, 2h to 3 hours. 

Obs.— Rabbits make a very good currie when quite young. Cayenne 
pepper can always be added to heighten the pungency of a currie when 
the proportion in the powder is not considered sufficient. 



224 .MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XIV. 

selim's curries. {Captain White's.) 
These curries are made with a sort of paste, which is labelled with 
the above names, and as it has attracted some attention of late, and the 
curries made with it are very good, and quickly and easily prepared, we 
give the directions for them. " Cut a pound and a half of chicken, 
fowl, veal, rabbit, or mutton, into pieces an inch and a half square. Put 
from two to three ounces of fresh butter in a stewpan, and when it is 
melted put in the meat, and give it a good stir with a wooden spoon ; 
add from two to three dessertspoonsful of the currie-paste ; mix the 
whole up well together, and continue the stirring over a brisk fire from 
five to ten minutes, and the currie will be done. This is a dry currie. 
For a gravy currie, add two or three tablespoonsful of boiling water 
after the paste is well mixed in, and continue the stewing and stirring 
from ten to twelve minutes longer, keeping the sauce of the consistency 
of cream. Prepare salmon and lobster in the same way, but very 
quickly, that they may come up firm. The paste may be rubbed over 
steaks, or cutlets, when they are nearly broiled ; three or four minutes 
will finish them."* 

CURRIED EGGS. 

Boil six or eight fresh eggs quite hard, as for salad, and put them 
aside until they are cold. Mix well together from two to three ounces 
of good butter, and from three to four dessertspoonsful of currie-powder; 
shake them in a stewpan, or thick saucepan, over a clear but moderate 
fire for some minutes, then throw in a couple of mild onions finely 
minced, and fry them gently until they are tolerably soft; pour to them 
by degrees from half to three quarters of a pint of broth or gravy, 
and stew them slowly until they are reduced to pulp; mix smoothly a 
small cup of thick cream with two teaspoonsful of wheaten or of rice- 
flour, stir them to the currie, and simmer the whole until the raw taste 
of the thickening is gone. Cut the eggs into half inch slices, heat 
them quite through in the sauce without boiling them, and serve them 
as hot as possible. 

CURRIED SWEETBREADS. 

Wash and soak them as usual, then throw them into boiling water 
with a little salt in it, and a whole onion, and let them simmer for ten 
minutes; or, if at hand, substitute weak veal broth for the water. Lift 
them out, place them on a drainer, and leave them until they are per- 
fectly cold ; then cut them into half-inch slices, and either flour and 
fry them lightly in butter, or put them, without this, into as much cur- 
ried gravy as will just cover them ; stew them in it very gently from 
twenty to thirty minutes; add as much lemon-juice or Chili vinegar as 
will acidulate the sauce agreeably,")" and serve the currie very hot. As 
we have already stated in two or three previous receipts, an ounce or 
more of sweet freshly-grated cocoa-nut, stewed tender in the gravy, 
and strained from it before the sweetbreads are added, will give a pecu- 
liarly pleasant flavour to all curries. 

* Unless the meat be extremely tender, and cut small, it will require from ten to 
fifteen minutes stewing: when no liquid is added, it must be stirred without intermis- 
sion, or the paste will burn to the pan. It answers well for cutlets, and for mullaga- 
lawny soup also; but makes a very mild currie. 

t We find that a small portion of Indian pickled mango, or of its liquor, is an agre« 
able addition to a currie, as well as to mullagatawny soup. 



CHAP. XIV.] CURRIES, POTTED MEATS, &C. 225 

Blanched 10 minutes; sliced (fried or not); stewed from 20 to 30 
minutes. 

CURRIED OYSTERS. 

" Let a hundred of large sea-oysters be opened into a basin, without 
losing- one drop of their liquor. Put a lump of fresh butter into a good- 
sized saucepan, and when it boils, add a large onion, cut into thin slices, 
and let it fry in the uncovered stewpan until it is of a rich brown ; now 
add a bit more butter, and two or three tablespoonsful of currie-powder. 
When these ingredients are well mixed over the fire with a wooden 
spoon, add gradually either hot water, or broth from the stock-pot; 
cover the stewpan, and let the whole boil up. Meanwhile, have ready 
the meat of a cocoa-nut, grated or rasped fine, put this into the stew- 
pan with a few sour tamarinds (if they are to be obtained, if not, a sour 
apple, chopped.) Let the whole simmer over the fire until the apple is 
dissolved, and the cocoa-nut very tender ; then add a cupful of strong 
thickening made of flour and water, and sufficient salt, as a currie will 
not bear being salted at table. Let this boil up for five minutes. Have 
ready also, a vegetable marrow, or part of one, cut into bits, and suffi- 
ciently boiled to require little or no further cooking. Put this in with 
a tomata or two; either of these vegetables may be omitted. Now put 
into the stewpan the oysters with their liquor, and the milk of the 
cocoa-nut ; stir them well with the former ingredients ; let the currie 
stew gently for a few minutes, then throw in the strained juice of half 
a lemon. Stir the currie from time to time with a wooden spoon, and 
as soon as the oysters are done enough serve it up with a corresponding 
dish of rice on the opposite side of the table. The dish is considered at 
Madras the ne plus ultra of Indian cookery."* 

We have extracted this receipt, as it stands, from the Magazine of 
Domestic Economy, the season in which we have met with it not per- 
mitting us to have it tested. Such of our readers as may have partaken 
of the true Oriental preparation, will be able to judge of its correctness ; 
■and others may consider it worthy of a trial. We should suppose it 
necessary to beard the oysters. 

CURRIED GRAVY. 

The quantity of onion, eschalot, or garlic used for a currie should be 
regulated by the taste of the persons for whom it is prepared ; the very 
large proportions of them which are acceptable to some eaters, prevent- 
ing others altogether from partaking of the dish. Slice, and fry gently 
in a little good butter, from a couple to six large onions (with a bit of 
garlic, and four or five eschalots, or none of either), when they are 
coloured equally of a fine yellow-brown, lift them on to a sieve reversed 
to drain ; put them into a clean saucepan, add a pint and a half of good 
gravy, with a couple of ounces of rasped cocoa-nut, or of any other of 
the condiments we have already specified, which may require as much 
stewing as the onions (an apple or two, for instance), and simmer them 
softly from half to three quarters of an hour, or until the onion is suffi- 
ciently tender to be pressed through a strainer. We would recommend 
that for a delicate currie this should always be done ; for a common one 
it is not necessary ; and many persons prefer to have the whole of it 

* Native oysters, prepared as for sauce, may be curried by the receipt for eggs or 
s\veetbrr-ads, with the addition of their liquor. 

14 



226 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XIV. 

left in this last. After the gravy has been worked through the strainer, 
and again boils, add to it from three to four dessertspoonsful of currie- 
povvder, and one of flour, with as much salt as the gravy may require, 
the whole mixed to a smooth batter with a small cupful of good cream.* 
Simmer it from fifteen to twenty minutes, and it will be ready for use. 
Lobster, prawns, shrimps, maccaroni, hard-boiled eggs, cold calf's head, 
and various other meats maybe heated and served in it with advantage. 
For all these, and indeed tor every kind of currie, acid of some sort 
should be added. Chili vinegar answers well when no fresh lemon- 
juice is at hand. 

Onions, 2 to 6 (garlic, 1 clove, or eschalots, 4 to 5, or neither) ; fried 
a light brown. Gravy, 1| pint; cocoa-nut, 2 ozs. (3, if very young): 
^ to f hour. Currie-powder, 3 to 4 dessertspoonsful ; flour, 1 dessert- 
spoonful ; salt, as needed ; cream, 1 small cupful : 15 to 20 minutes. 

0/ ; , 9 ._Jr] India, curds are frequently added to curries, but that may 
possibly be from theii abounding much more than sweet cream in so hot 
a climate. 

POTTED MEATS. 

Any tender and well-roasted meat, taken free of fat, skin, and gristle, 
as well as from the dry outsides, will answer for potting admirably, bet- 
ter, indeed, than that which is generally baked for the purpose, and 
which is usually quite deprived of its juices by the process. Spiced or 
corned beef also is excellent when thus prepared ; and any of these will 
remain good a long time if mixed with cold fresh butter, instead of that 
which is clarified" but no addition that can be made to it will render 
the meat eatable, unless it be thoroughly pounded; reduced, in fact, to 
the smoothest possible paste, free from a single lump or a morsel of un- 
broken fibre. If rent into fragments, instead of being cut quite through 
the grain, in being minced, before it is put into the mortar, no beating 
wiH^ring it to the proper state. Unless it be very dry, it is better to 
pound it for some time before any butter is added, and it must be long 
and patit ntly beaten after all the ingredients are mixed, that the whole 
may be equally blended and well mellowed in flavour. 

The quantity of butter required will depend upon the nature of the 
meat; ham and salted beef will need a larger proportion than roast 
meat, or than the breasts of poultry and game ; white fish, from being 
less dry, will require comparatively little. Salmon, lobsters, prawns, 
and shrimps are all extremely good, prepared in this way. They should, 
however, be perfectly fresh when they are pounded, and be set imme- 
diately afterwards into a very cool place. For these, and for white 
meats in general, mace, nutmeg, and cayenne or white pepper, are the 
appropriate spices. A small quantity of cloves may be added to hare 
and other brown meat, but allspice we would not recommend unless the 
taste is known to be in favour of it. The following receipt for pounding 
ham will serve as a general one for the particular manner of proceeding. 

potted ham; (an excellent Receipt.) 
To be eaten in perfection this should be made with a freshly cured 
ham, which, after having been soaked for twelve hours, should be wiped 

*TIiis must, be added only just before the currie is dished, when any acid fruit has 
be<n boiled in the gravy: it may then be .first blended with a small portion of arrow- 
root, or flour. 



CHAP. XIV.] CURRIES, POTTED MEATS, &C. 227 

dry, nicely trimmed, closely wrapped in coarse paste, and baked very 
tender.* When it comes from the oven, remove the crust and rind, 
and when the ham is perfectly cold, take for each pound of the lean, 
which should be weighed after every morsel of skin and fibre has been 
carefully removed, six ounces of cold roast veal, prepared with equal 
nicety. Mince these quite fine with an exceedingly sharp knife, taking 
care to cut through the meat, and not to tear the fibre, as on this much 
of the excellence of the preparation depends. Next put it into a large 
stone or marble mortar, and pound it to the smoothest paste with eight 
ounces of fresh butter, which must be added by degrees. When three- 
pans beaten, strew over it ateaspoonful of freshly-pounded mace, half a 
large, or the whole of a small nutmeg grated, and the third of a tea- 
spoonful of cayenne well mixed together. It is better to limit the spice 
to this quantity in the first instance, and to increase afterwards either 
of the three kinds to the taste of the parties to whom the meat is to be 
served. f We do not find half a teaspoonful of cayenne and nearly two 
teaspoonsful of mace, more than is generally approved. After the spice 
is added, keep the meat often turned from the sides to the middle of the 
mortar, that it may be seasoned equally in every part. When perfectly 
pounded, press it into small potting-pans, and pour clarified butterj over 
the top. If kept in a cool and dry place, this meat will remain good for 
a fortnight, or more. 

Lean of ham, 1 lb. ; lean of roast veal, 6 ozs. ; fresh butter, 8 ozs. ; 
mace, from 1 to 2 teaspoonsful ; \ large nutmeg ; cayenne, \ to \ tea- 
spoonful. 

Obs. — The roast veal is ordered in this receipt because the ham alone 
is generally too salt ; for the same reason butter, fresh taken from the 
churn, or that which is but slightly salted and quite new, should be used 
for it in preference to its own fat. When there is no ready-dressed veal 
in the house, the best part of the neck, roasted or stewed, will supply 
the requisite quantity. The remains of a cold boiled ham will answer 
quite well for potting, even when a little dry. 

POTTED CHICKEN, PARTRIDGE, OR PHEASANT. 

Roast the birds as for table, but let them be thoroughly done, for if 
the gravy be left in, the meat will not keep half so well. Raise the 
flesh of the breast, wings, and merrythought quite clear from the bones, 
take off the skin, mince, and then pound it very smoothly with about 
one third of its weight of fresh butter, or something less, if the meat 
should appear of a proper consistence without the full quantity; season 
it with salt, mace, and cayenne only, and add these in small portions 
until the meat is rather highly flavoured with both the last: proceed 
with it as with other potted meats. 

POTTED OX-TOXCUE. 

Boil tender an unsmoked tongue of good flavour, and the following 
day cut from it the quantity desired for potting, or take for this purpose 

* See Baked Ham, Chapter XL, page 195. 

t Spice, it must be observed, varies so very greatly in its quality that discretion ia 
always necessary in using it. 

JThis should never be poured hot on the meat: it should be less than milk-warm 
when added to it. 



228 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XV. 

the remains of one which has already been served at table. Trim off 
the skin and rind, weigh the meat, mince it very small, then pound it 
as fine as possible with four ounces of butter to each pound of tongue, a 
small teaspoonful of mace, half as much of nutmeg- and cloves, and a 
tolerably high seasoning of cayenne. After the spices are well beaten 
with the meat, taste it, and add more if required. A few ounces of any 
well-roasted meat mixed with the tongue will give it firmness, in which 
it is apt to be deficient. The breasts of turkeys, fowls, partridges, or 
pheasants may be used for the purpose with good effect. 

Tongue, 1 lb. ; butter, 4 ozs. ; mace, 1 teaspoonful ; nutmeg and 
cJoves, each } 2 teaspoonful ; cayenne, 5 to 10 grains. 

LOBSTER BUTTER. 

Pound to the smoothest paste the coral of one or two fine lobsters, 
mix with it about a third of its volume of fresh butter, and the same 
proportion of spices as are given in the preceding receipt. Let the 
whole be thoroughly blended; set it by for a while in a cool place and 
pot it, or make it up into small pats and serve them with curled parsley 
round the dish, or with any light foliage that will contrast well with 
their brilliant colour. The flesh of the lobster may be cut fine with a 
very sharp knife, and pounded with the coral. 

POTTED MUSHROOMS. 

The receipt for these, which we can recommend to the reader, will 
be found in the next Chapter. 



CHAPTER XV. 
VEGETABLES. 



The quality of vegetables depends much both on the soil in which 
they are grown, and on the degree of care bestowed upon their culture; 
but if produced in ever so great perfection, their excellence will be en- 
tirely destroyed if they be badly cooked. 

With the exception of artichokes, which are said to be improved by 
two or three days' keeping, all the summer varieties should be dressed 
before their first freshness has in any degree passed oft* (for their flavour 
is never so fine as within a few hours of their being cut or gathered) ; 
but when this cannot be done, precaution should be taken to prevent 
their withering. The stalk-ends of asparagus, cucumbers, and vege 
table-marrow should be placed in from one to two inches of cold water 
and all other kinds should be spread on a cool brick floor. When th~ 
has been neglected, they must be thrown into cold water for some time 
before they are boiled to recover them, though they will prove even 
then but very inferior eating. 

Vegetables, when not sufficiently cooked, are known to be so exceed- 
ingly unwholesome and indigestible, that the custom of serving them 
ciisp, which means, in reality, only half-boiled, should be altogether 
disregarded when health is considered of more importance than fashion; 
but they should not be allowed to remain in the water after they are 



CHAP. XV.] VEGETABLES. 229 

quite done, or both their nutritive properties and their flavour will be 
lost, and their good appearance destroyed. Care should be taken to 
drain them thoroughly in a warm strainer, and to serve them very hot, 
with well-made sauces, if with any. 

Only dried peas or beans, Jerusalem artichokes, and potatoes, are put 
at first into cold water. All others require plenty of fast-boiling- water, 
which should be ready salted and skimmed before they are thrown 
into it. 

TO CLEAR VEGETABLES FROM INSECTS. 

Lay them for half an hour or more into a pan of strong brine, with 
the stalk ends uppermost; this will destroy the small snails and other 
insects which cluster in the leaves, and they will fall out and sink to 
the bottom. A pound and a half of salt to the gallon of water will an- 
swer for this purpose, and if strained daily it will last for some time. 

TO BOIL VEGETABLES GREEN. 

After they have been properly prepared and washed, throw them into 
plenty of boiling water which has been salted and well skimmed; and 
keep them uncovered and boiling fast until they are done, taking every 
precaution against their being smoked. Should the water be very hard, 
a bit of soda the size of a hazel-nut, or a small half-teaspoonful of car- 
bonate of soda, may be added with the salt, for every two quarts, and 
will greatly improve the colour of the vegetables; but if used in undue 
proportion, it will injure them ; green peas especially will be quickly 
reduced to a mash if boiled with too large a quantity. 

Water, 1 gallon ; salt, 2 ozs. ; soda, ^ to \ oz. ; or carbonate of soda, 
1 teaspoonful. 

to boil potatoes; (a genuine Irish Receipt.) 
Potatoes, to boil well together, should be all of the same sort, and as 
nearly equal in size as may be. Wash off the mould, and scrub them 
very clean with a hard brush, but neither scoop nor apply a knife to 
them in any way, even to clear the eyes.* Rinse them w T ell, and arrange 
them compactly in a saucepan, so that they may not lie loose in the 
water, and that a small quantity may suffice to cover them. Pour this 
in cold, and when it boils, throw in about a large teaspoonful of salt to 
the quart, and simmer the potatoes until they are nearly done, but for 
the last two or three minutes let them boil rapidly. When they are 
tender quite through, which may be known by probing them with a 
fork, pour all the water from them immediately, lift the lid of the sauce- 
pan to allow the steam to escape, and place them on a trevet, high over 
the fire, or by the side of it, until the moisture has entirely evaporated ; 
then peel, and send them to table as quickly as possible, either in a hot 
napkin, or in a dish, of which the cover is so placed that the steam can 
pass off! There should be no delay in serving them after they are once 
taken from the fire : Irish families usually prefer them served in their 
skins. Some kinds will be done in twenty minutes, others in less than 
three quarters of an hour. We are informed that " the best potatoes 
are those which -average from five to six to the pound, with few eyes, 

♦"Because," in the words nf our clever Irish correspondent, "the water through 
these parts is then admitted into the very heart of the vegetable; and the latent heat, 
after cooking, is not sufficient to throw it oiF: this renders the potatoes very un« 
wholesome." 



230 MODERN COOKERY. [dlAP. XV. 

but those pretty deep, and equally distributed over the surface." We 
cannot ourselves vouch for the correctness of the assertion, but we think 
it may be relied on. 

20 minutes to f hour or more. 

Obs. — The water in which they are boiled should barely cover the 
potatoes. 

ANOTHER WAY TO BOIL POTATOES. 

Pare, wash and throw them into a pan of cold water; then put them 
on to boil in a clean pot with cold water sufficient to cover them, and 
sprinkle over a little salt; let them boil slowly uncovered till you can 
pass a fork through them ; pour off the water, and set them where they 
will keep hot till wanted. When done in this way they are very 
mealy and dry. 

Potatoes either boiled or roasted, should never be covered to keep 
them hot. 

TO BOIL NEW POTATOES. 

These are never good unless freshly dug. Take them of equal size, 
and rub off the skins with a brush, or a very coarse cloth, wash then? 
clean, and put them, without salt, into boiling, or at least, quite hot 
water; boil them softly, and when they are tender enough to serve, 
pour off the water entirely, strew some fine salt over the potatoes, give 
them a shake, and let them stand by the fire in the saucepan for a 
minute, then dish and serve them immediately. Some cooks throw in 
a small slice of fresh butter, with the salt, and toss them gently in it 
after it is dissolved. This is a good mode, but the more usual one is to 
send melted butter to table with them, or to pour white sauce over 
them when they are very young, and served early in the season, as a 
side or corner dish. 

Very small, 10 to 15 minutes : moderate sized, 15 to 20 minutes. 

NEW POTATOES IN BUTTER. 

Rub off the skins, wash the potatoes well, and wipe them dry ; put 
them with three ounces of good butter, for a small dish, and with four 
ounces, or more, for a large one, into a well-tinned stewpan or sauce- 
pan, and simmer them over a gentle fire for about half an hour. Keep 
them well shaken or tossed, that they may be equally done, and throw 
in some salt when they begin to stew. This is a good mode of dress- 
ing them when they are very young and watery. 

to boil potatoes; {Captain Eater's Receipt.) 
Wash, wipe, and pare the potatoes, cover them w 7 ith cold water, and 
boil them gently until they are done, pour off the water, and sprinkle 
a little fine salt over them ; then take each potato separately with a 
spoon, and lay it into a clean warm cloth, twist this so as to press all 
the moisture from the vegetable, and render it quite round ; turn it 
carefully into a dish placed before the fire, throw a cloth over, and 
when all are done, send them to table quickly. . Potatoes dressed in 
this way are mashed without the slighest trouble ; it is also by far the 
best method of preparing them for puddings or for cakes. 

TO ROAST OR BAKE POTATOES. 

Scrub, and wash exceedingly clean, some potatoes nearly assorted in 
size ; wipe them very dry, and roast them in a Dutch oven before the 



CKAI>. XV.] VEGETABLES. 231 

fire, placing them at a distance from it, and keepii.g them often turned; 
arrange them in a coarse dish, and bake thern in a moderate oven. 
Dish them neatly in a napkin, and send them very hot to table ; serve 
cold butter with them, 
lj to upwards of 2 hours. 

scooped potatoes, (extremets) ; or second course dish. 
Wash and wipe some large potatoes of a firm kind, and with a small 
scoop adapted to the purpose, form as many diminutive ones as will fill 
a dish; cover them with cold water, and when they have boiled gently 
for five minutes, pour it oft* and put more cold water to them ; after they 
have simmered a second time for five minutes, drain the water quite 
away, and lei them steam by the side of the fire from four to five min- 
utes longer. Dish them carefully, pour white sauce over them, and 
serve them with the second course. Old potatoes thus prepared, have 
often been made to pass for neiv ones, at the best tables, at the season in 
which the fresh vegetable is dearest. The time required to boil them 
will of course vary with their quality: we give the method which we 
have found very successful. 

FRIED POTATOES. (ENTREMETS.) 

After having washed them, wipe and pare some raw potatoes, cut 
them in slices of equal thickness, or into thin shavings, and throw them 
into plenty of boiling butter, or very pure clarified dripping. Fry them 
of a fine light brown, and very crisp ; lift them out with a skimmer, 
drain them on a soft warm cloth, dish them very hot, and sprinkle fine 
salt over them. This is an admirable way of dressing potatoes, very 
common on the Continent, but less so in England than it deserves to be. 
When pared round and round to a corkscrew form, in ribbons or shavings 
of equal width, and served dry and well fried, lightly piled in a dish, 
they make a handsome appearance and are excellent eating. We have 
known them served in this country with a slight sprinkling of cayenne. 
If sliced, they should be something less than a quarter-inch thick. 

MASHED POTATOES. 

Boil them perfectly tender quite through, pour off the water, and 
steam them very dry by the directions already given in the receipt of 
page 229; peel them quickly, take out every speck, and while they are 
still hot press the potatoes through an earthen cullender, or bruise them 
to a smooth mash with a strong wooden fork or spoon, but never pound 
them in a mortar, as that will reduce them to a close heavy paste. Let 
them be entirely free from lumps, for nothing can be more indicative of 
carelessness or want of skill on the part of the cook, than mashed pota- 
toes sent to table full of these. Melt in a clean saucepan a slice of 
good butter with a few spoonsful of milk, or, better still, of cream ; put 
in the potatoes after having sprinkled some fine salt upon them, and stir 
the whole over a gentle fire, with a wooden spoon, until the ingredients 
are well mixed, and the whole is very hot. It may then be served 
directly ; or heaped high in a dish, left rough on the surface, and browned 
before the fire; or it may be pressed into a well-buttered mould of 
handsome form, which has been strewed with the finest bread-crumbs, 
and shaken free of the loose ones, then turned out, and browned in a 



232 MODERN COOKERY. [ciIAP. XV. 

Dutch or common oven. More or less liquid will be required to moisten 
sufficiently potatoes of various kinds. 

Potatoes mashed, 2 lbs. ; salt, 1 teaspoonful ; butter, 1 to 2 ozs. ; milk 
or cream, £ pint. 

Obs. — Mushed potatoes are often moulded with a cup, and then 
equally browned ; any other shape will answer the purpose as well, and 
many are of better appearance. 

ENGLISH POTATO-BALLS. 

Boil some floury potatoes very dry, mash them as smoothly as possi- 
ble, season them well with salt and white pepper; warm them with 
about, an ounce of butter to the pound, or rather more if it will not ren- 
der them too moist ; a few T spoonsful of good cream may be added, but 
they must be boiled very dry after it is stirred to them. Let the mix- 
ture cool a little, roll it into balls, sprinkle over them vermicelli crushed 
slightly with the hand, and fry them a line light brown. They may be 
dished round a shape of plain mashed potatoes, or piled on a napkin by 
themselves. They may likewise be rolled in egg and fine bread-crumbs 
instead of in the vermicelli, or in rice-flour, which answers very well 
for them. 

POTATO BOULETTES. (ENTREMETS) ;, (good.) 

Boil some good potatoes as dry as possible, or let them be prepared by 
Captain Rater's receipt ; mash a pound of them very smoothly, and mix 
with them while they are still warm, two ounces of fresh butter, a tea- 
spoonful of salt, a little nutmeg, the beaten and strained yolks of four 
eggs, and last of all the whites thoroughly whisked. Mould with, and 
drop the mixture from a teaspoon, into a small pan of boiling butter, or 
of very pure lard, and fry the boulettes for five minutes over a mode- 
rate fire : they should be of a line pale brown, and very light. Drain 
them well and dish them on a hot napkin. 

Potatoes, 1 lb. ; butter, 2 ozs. ; salt, 1 teaspoonful ; eggs, 4 : 5 
minutes. 

potato rissoles; (French.) 
Mash and season the potatoes with salt, and white pepper, or cayenne, 
and mix with them plenty of minced parsley, and a small quantity of 
green onions, or eschalots ; add sufficient yolks of egg to bind the mix- 
ture together, roll it into small balls, and fry them in plenty of lard or 
butter over a moderate fire, or they will be too much browned before 
they are done through. Ham, or any other kind of meat finely minced, 
may be substituted lor the herbs, or added to them. 

POTATOES A LA MAITRE d'hOTEL. 

Boil in the usual manner some potatoes of a firm kind, peel, and let 
them cool ; then cut them equally into quarter-inch slices. Dissolve in 
a very clean stewpan or saucepan from two to four ounces of good but- 
ter, stir to it a small dessertspoonful of flour, and shake the pan over the 
fire for two or three minutes; add by slow degrees a small cup of boil- 
ing water, some pepper, salt, and a tablespoonful of minced parsley ; 
put in the potatoes, and toss them gently over a clear fire until they are 
quite hot, and the sauce adheres well to them; at the instant of serving 
add a dessertspoonful of strained lemon-juice. Pale veal gravy may be 
substituted for the water; and the potatoes, after being thickly sliced, 
may be quickly cut of the same size with a small round cutter. 



CHAP. XV.] VEGETABLES. 233 

POTATOES A LA CREME. 

Prepare the potatoes as above, and toss them gently in a quarterpint 
or more of thick white sauce or of common bechamel, with or without 
the addition of the minced parsley. 

spinach, (entremets.) (French Receipt.) 
Pick the spinach leaf by leaf from the stems, and wash it in abun- 
dance of spring water, changing it several times ; then shake it in a 
dry cloth held by the four corners, or drain it on a large sieve. Throw 
it into sufficient well-salted boiling water to allow it to float freely, and 
keep it pressed down with a skimmer that it may be equally done. 
When quite young it will be tender in from eight to ten minutes, but to 
ascertain if it be so, take a leaf and squeeze it between the fingers. If 
to be dressed in the French mode, drain, and then throw it directly into 
plenty of fresh water, and when it is cool form it into balls and press 
the moisture thoroughly from it with the hands. Next, chop it ex- 
tremely fine upon a clean trencher ; put two ounces (for a large dish) 
of butter into a stewpan or bright thick saucepan, lay the spinach on it, 
and keep it stirred over a gentle fire for ten minutes, or until it appears 
dry ; dredge in a spoonful of flour, and turn the spinach as it is added ; 
pour to it gradually a few spoonsful of very rich veal gravy, or, if pre- 
ferred, of good boiling cream, (with the last of these a dessertspoonful 
or more of pounded sugar may be added for a second-course dish, when 
the true French mode of dressing the vegetable is liked.) Stew the 
whole briskly until the whole is well absorbed; dish, and serve the 
spinach very hot, with small, pale fried sippets round it, or with leaves 
of puff paste fresh from the oven, or well dried after having been fried. 
For ornament, the sippets may be fancifully shaped with a tin cutter. 
A proper seasoning of salt must not be omitted in this or any other pre- 
paration of the spinach. 

spinach ; (common English mode.) 
Boil the spinach very green in plenty of water, drain, and then press 
the moisture from it between two trenchers ; chop it small, put it into 
a clean saucepan, with a slice of fresh butter, and stir the whole until 
well mixed and very hot. Smooth it in a dish, mark it in dice, and 
send it quickly to table. 

ANOTHER COMMON ENGLISH RECEIPT FOR SPINACH. 

Take it leaf by leaf from the stalks, and be very careful to clear it 
from any weeds that may be amongst it, and to free it by copious and 
repeated washings from every particle of grit. Put it into a large well- 
tinned stewpan or saucepan, with the water only which hangs about it ; 
throw in a small spoonful of salt, and keep it constantly pressed down 
with a wooden spoon, and turned often for about a quarter of an hour, 
or until it is perfectly tender. Drain off the superfluous moisture, chop 
the spinach quickly on a hot trencher; dish and serve it immediately. 
Fried sippets of bread should always be served round this vegetable, 
unless it be prepared for an invalid. 

BOILED TURNIP-RADISHES. 

These should be freshly drawn, young and white. Wash and trim 
them neatly, leaving on two or three of the small inner leaves of the 



234 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XV. 

top. Boil them in plenty of salted water from twenty to thirty minutes, 
and as soon as they are tender send them to table well drained, with 
melted butter or white sauce. Common radishes, when young, tied in 
bunches, and boiled from eighteen to twenty-five minutes, then served 
on a toast like asparagus, are very good. 

BOILED LEEKS. 

Trim off the coarser leaves from some young leeks, cut them into 
equal lengths, tie them into small bunches, and boil them in plenty of 
water which has been previously salted and skimmed ; serve them on a 
toast, and send melted butter to table with them. 

20 to 25 minutes. 

STEWED LETTUCES. 

Strip off the outer leaves, and cut away the stalks; wash the lettuces 
with exceeding nicety, and throw them into water salted as for all green 
vegetables. When they are quite tender, which will be in from twenty 
to thirty minutes, according to their age, lift them out, and press the 
water thoroughly from them ; chop them a little, and neat them in a 
clean saucepan with a seasoning of pepper and salt, and a small slice of 
butter; then dredge in a little flour and stir them well; add next a 
small cup of broth or gravy, boil them quickly until they are tolerably 
dry, then stir in a little pale vinegar or lemon-juice, and serve them as 
hot as possible, with fried sippets round them. 

TO BOIL ASPARAGUS. 

With a sharp knife scrape the stems of the asparagus lightly, but 
very clean, from within one to two inches of the green tender points, 
throw them into cold water as they are done, and when all are ready, 
tie them in bunches of equal size ; cut the large ends evenly, that the 
asparagus may be all of the same length, and put it into plenty of boil- 
ing water prepared by the directions of page 229. Cut a round of 
bread quite half an inch thick, and after having pared off the crust, 
toast it a delicate brown on both sides. When the stalks of the aspa- 
ragus are tender, lift it out directly, or it will lose both its colour and 
its flavour, and will also be liable to break ; dip the toast quickly into 
the water in which it was boiled, and dish the vegetable upon it, with 
the points meeting in the centre. Send rich melted butter to table 
with it. In France, a small quantity of vinegar is stirred into the 
sauce before it is served ; and many persons like the addition. Aspa- 
ragus may be preserved for a day or two sufficiently fresh for use, by 
keeping the stalks immersed in an inch depth of cold water; but it is 
never so good as when dressed directly it is cut, or within a few hours 
after. 

20 to 25 minutes. 

Obs. — Abroad, boiled asparagus is very frequently served cold, and 
eaten with oil and vinegar, or a sauce Mayonnaise. 

ASPARAGUS POINTS DRESSED LIKE PEAS. (ENTREMETS.) 

This is a convenient mode of dressing asparagus, when it is too small 
and green to make a good appearance plainly boiled. Cut the points 
so far only as they are perfectly tender, in bits of equal size, not more 
than the third of an inch in length ; wash them very clean, and throw 



CHAP. XV.] VEGETABLES. 235 

them into plenty of boiling- water, with the usual quantity of salt and a 
morsel of soda. When they are tolerably tender, which will be in from 
ten to twelve minutes, drain them well, and spread them on a clean 
cloth ; fold it over them, wipe them gently, and when they are quite 
dry put them into a clean stewpan with a good slice of butter, which 
should be just dissolved before the asparagus is added ; stew them in 
this over a brisk fire, shaking them often, for eight or ten minutes; 
dredge in about a small teaspoonful of flour, and add half that quantity 
of white sugar; then pour in boiling water to nearly cover the aspara- 
gus, and boil it rapidly until but little liquid remains : stir in the beaten 
yolks of two eggs, heap the asparagus high in a dish, and serve it very 
hot. The sauce should adhere entirely to the vegetable, as in green 
peas a la Francaise. 

TO BOIL GREEN PEAS. 

To be eaten in perfection these should be young, very freshly 
gathered, and shelled just before they are boiled ; should there be great 
inequality in their size, the smaller ones may be separated from the 
others, and thrown into the saucepan four or five minutes later. Wash 
and drain the peas in a cullender, put them into plenty of fast-boiling 
water, salted by the directions of page 229, keep the pan uncovered, and 
let them boil rapidly until they are tender; drain them well, dish them 
quickly, and serve them very hot, with good melted butter in a tureen ; 
or put a slice of fresh butter into the midst of the peas, heap them well 
over it in the centre of the dish, and let it dissolve before they are dis- 
turbed. Never, on any account, boil or mix mint with them unless it 
be expressly ordered, as it is particularly distasteful to many persons. 
It should be served in small heaps round them, if at all. 

15 to 25 minutes, or more if old. 

GREEN PEAS A LA FRANCAISE; OR, FRENCH FASHION. (ENTREMETS.) 

.Throw a quart of young and freshly-shelled peas into plenty of spring 
water with a couple of ounces of butter, and with the hand work them 
together until the butter adheres well to the peas; lift them out, and 
drain them in a cullender ; put them into a stewpan or thick saucepan 
without any water, and let them remain over a gentle fire, and be 
stirred occasionally for twenty minutes from the time of their first be- 
ginning to simmer; then pour to them as much boiling water as will 
just cover them ; throw in a small quantity of salt, and keep them 
boiling quickly for forty minutes : stir well amongst them a small lump 
of sugar which has been dipped quickly into water, and a thickening 
of about half an ounce of butter very smoothly mixed with a teaspoonful 
of flour; shake them over the fire for a couple of minutes, and serve 
them directly, heaped high in a very hot dish : there will be no sauce 
except that which adheres to the peas if they be properly managed. 
We have found marrow-fats excellent, dressed by this receipt. Fresh 
and good butter should be used with them always. 

Peas, 1 quart ; butter, 2 ozs. : 20 minutes. Water to cover the peas; 
little salt: 40 minutes. Sugar, small lump; butter, ^ oz. ; flour, 1 
teaspoonful : 2 minutes. 

GREEN PEAS WITH CREAM. (ENTREMETS.) 

Boil a quart of young peas perfectly tender in salt and water, and 



236 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XV. 

drain them as dry as possible. Dissolve an ounce and a half of butter 
in a clean stewpan, stir smoothly to it when it boils a dessertspoonful of 
flour, and shake these over the fire for three or four minutes, but with- 
out allowing them to take the slightest colour ; pour gradually to them 
a cup of rich cream, add a small lump of sugar pounded, let the sauce 
boil, then put in the peas and toss them gently in it until they are very 
hot : dish, and serve them quickly. 

Peas, 1 quart: 18 to 25 minutes. Butter, 1^ oz. ; flour, 1 dessert- 
spoonful : 3 to 5 minutes. Sugar, 1 saltspoonful ; cream, 1 cupful. 

TO EOIL FRENCH OR STRING BEANS. 

When the beans are very small and young, merely take off the ends 
and stalks, and drop them into plenty of spring water as they are done; 
when all are ready wash and drain them well, throw them into a large 
saucepan of fast-boiling water, salted as usual (see page 229), and when 
they are quite tender, which will be in from twelve to eighteen minutes, 
pour them into a cullender, shake the water from them, dish, and send 
quickly to table with good melted butter in a tureen. When from half 
to two parts grown, cut the beans obliquely into a lozenge form, or, 
when a less modern fashion is preferred, split them lengthwise into 
delicate strips, and then cut them once across : the strings should be 
drawn off with the tops and stalks. No mode of dressing it can render 
this vegetable good when it is old, but if the sides be pared off, the 
beans cut thin, and boiled tender with rather more than the ordinary 
proportion of soda, they will be of excellent colour, and tolerably 
eatable. 

FRENCH BEANS A LA FRANCAISE. (ENTREMETS.) 

Boil, and drain them thoroughly ; put them into a clean stewpan, or 
well-tinned iron saucepan, and shake them over the fire until they are 
very dry and hot; add to them from two to four ounces of fresh butter 
cut into small bits, some white pepper, a little salt, and the juice of half 
a lemon ; toss them gently for a few minutes over a clear fire, and 
serve them very hot. Should the butter turn to oil, a spoonful or two 
of veal gravy or boiling water must be added. 

AN EXCELLENT RECEIPT FOR FRENCH BEANS A LA FRANCAISE. 

Prepare as many young and freshly-gathered beans as will serve foi 
a large dish, boil them tender, and drain the water well from them 
Melt a couple of ounces of fresh butter, in a clean saucepan, and stir 
smoothly to it a small dessertspoonful of flour; keep these well shaken, 
and gently simmered until they are lightly browned, add salt and 
pepper, and pour to them by degrees a small cupful of good veal gravy 
(or, in lieu of this, of sweet rich cream), toss the beans in the sauce 
until they are as hot as possible ; stir quickly in, as they are taken from 
the fire, the beaten yolks of two fresh eggs, and a little lemon-juice, 
and serve them without delay. The eggs and lemon are sometimes 
omitted, and a tablespoonful of minced parsley is added to the butter 
and flour ; but this, we think, is scarcely an improvement. 

Beans, 1 to 2 quarts : boiled 15 to 20 minutes. Butter, 2 ozs. ; flour, 
1 dessertspoonful ; salt and pepper ; veal gravy, small cupful ; yolks of 
eggs, 2 ; lemon-juice, a dessertspoonful. 



CHAP. XV.] VEGETABLES. 237 

TO BOIL WINDSOR BEANS. 

When young, freshly gathered, and well dressed, these beans, even 
with many persons accustomed to a luxurious table, are a favourite 
accompaniment to a dish of streaked bacon, or delicate pickled pork. 
Shell them only just before they are wanted, then wash, drain, and 
throw them into boiling water, salted as for peas. When they are 
quite tender, pour them into a hot cullender, drain them thoroughly, 
and send them to table quickly, with a tureen of parsley and butter, or 
with plain melted butter, when it is preferred. A boiled cheek of bacon, 
trimmed free of any blackened parts, may be dished over the beans, 
upon occasion. 

20 to 30 minutes ; less, when very young. 

Obs. — When the skin of the beans appears wrinkled, they will gene- 
rally be found sufficiently tender to serve, but they should be tasted to 
ascertain that they are so. 

DRESSED CUCUMBERS. 

Pare and slice them very thin, strew a little fine salt over them, and 
when they have stood a few minutes drain off the water, by raising one 
side of the dish, and letting it flow to the other; pour it away, strew 
more salt, and a moderate seasoning of pepper on them, add two or 
three tablespoonsful of the purest salad-oil, and turn the cucumbers well, 
that the whole may receive a portion of it ; then pour over them from 
one to three dessertspoonsful of Chili vinegar, and a little common, 
should it be needed ; turn them into a clean dish and serve them. 

Obs. — If very young, cucumbers are usually dressed without being 
pared, but the tough rind of full-grown ones being extremely indigesti- 
ble, should be avoided. The vegetable, though apt to disagree with 
persons of delicate habit, when sauced in the common mode, with 
salt, pepper, and vinegar only, may often be eaten by them with 
impunity when dressed with plenty of oil. It is difficult to obtain this 
perfectly fresh and pure here ; and hence, perhaps, arises in part the 
prejudice, which amongst us, is so often found to exist against the use 
of this most wholesome condiment. 

mandrang, or mandram ; ( West Indian Receipt.) 
Chop together very small, two moderate-sized cucumbers, with half 
the quantity of mild onion ; add the juice of a lemon, a saltspoonful or 
more of salt, a third as much of cayenne, and one or two glasses of 
Madeira, or of any other dry white wine. This preparation is to be 
served with any kind of roast meat. 

ANOTHER RECEIPT FOR MANDRAM. 

Take three or four cucumbers, so young as not to require paring; 
score the ends well, that when they are sliced they may fall into small 
bits; add plenty of young onions, cut fine, the juice of half a lemon, a 
glass of sherry or Madeira, and a dessertspoonful of vinegar. 

stewed cucumbers. (English mode.) 

Pare, and split into quarters, four or five full-grown but still young 

cucumbers ; take out the seeds and cut each part in two ; sprinkle them 

with white pepper or cayenne, flour and fry them lightly in a little 

butter, lift them from the pan, drain them on a sieve, then lay them 



238 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XV. 

into as much good brown gravy as will nearly cover them, and stew 
them gently from twenty-five to thirty minutes, or until they are quite 
^ender. Should the gravy require to be thickened or flavoured, dish the 
cucumbers and keep them hot while a little flour and butter, or any 
other of the usual ingredients, is stirred into it. Some persons like a 
small portion of lemon-juice, or of vinegar added to the sauce ; cu- 
cumber vinegar might be substited for these with very good effect, as 
the vegetable loses much of its fine and peculiar flavour when cooked. 

25 to 30 minutes. 

06*. — The cucumbers maybe left in entire lengths, thrown into well- 
salted boiling water, and simmered for ten minutes, then thoroughly 
drained upon the back of a sieve, and • afterwards stewed very quickly 
till tender in some highly-flavoured brown gravy, or in the Spanish 
sauce of page 88. 

CUCUMBERS A LA POULETTE. 

The cucumbers for this dish may be pared and sliced very thin; or 
quartered, freed from the seeds, and cut into halt-inch lengths; in either 
case they should be steeped in a little vinegar and sprinkled with salt 
for half an hour before they are dressed. Drain, and then press them 
dry in a soft cloth ; flour them well, put a slice of butter into a stewpan 
or saucepan bright in the inside, and when it begins to boil throw in the 
cucumbers, and shake them over a gentle fire ten minutes, but be care- 
ful to prevent their taking the slightest colour ; pour to them gradually 
as much strong, but very pale, veal stock or gravy as will nearly cover 
them ; when it boils skim off the fat entirely, add salt and white pepper, 
if needed, and when the cucumbers are quite tender, strew in a large 
teaspoonful of finely-minced parsley, and thicken the sauce with the 
yolks of two or three eggs. French cooks add the flour when the vege- 
table has stewed in the butter, instead of dredging it upon them at first, 
and this is perhaps the better method. 

CUCUMBERS A LA CREME. 

Boil them tolerably tender in salt and water, drain them well, 
then stew them for a few minutes in a thick bechamel, and serve 
them in it. 

FRIED CUCUMBERS TO SERVE IN COMMON HASHES AND MINCES. 

If very young they need not. be pared, but otherwise, take off the 
rind, slice, and dredge them lightly with pepper and flour, but put no 
salt at first; throw them into very hot butter or clarified dripping, or 
they will not brown ; when they are nearly done sprinkle some salt 
amongst them, and as soon as they are quite tender, lift them out 
with a slice, drain them well, and place them lightly over the hash 
or mince. A small portion of onion may be fried with them when it 
is liked. 

MELON. 

This in France and in other parts of the Continent is served and eaten 
with the bouilli (or beef boiled tender in the soup-pot), with a seasoning 
of salt and pepper only ; but the fruit is there far more abundant, and of 
infinitely finer growth than with us, and requires so little care, compa- 
ratively, that it is planted in many places in the open fields, where it 
llocrishes admirably. 



CHAP. XV.] VEGETABLES. 289 

SALAD. 

The herbs and vegetables for a salad cannot be too freshly gathered ; 
they should be carefully cleared from insects and washed with scrupu- 
lous nicety ; they are better when not prepared until near the time of 
sending them to table, and should not be sauced until the instant before 
they are served. Tender lettuces, of which the outer leaves should be 
stripped away, mustard and cress, young radishes, and occasionally 
chives or small green onions (when the taste of a party is in favour of 
these last) are the usual ingredients of summer salads. Half-grown 
cucumbers sliced thin, and mixed with them, are a favourite addition 
with many persons. In England it is customary to cut the lettuces 
extremely fine; the French, who object to the flavour of the knife, 
which they fancy this mode imparts, break them small instead. Young 
celery alone, sliced and dressed with a rich salad mixture (see page 103) 
is excellent : it is still in some families served thus always with roast 
pheasants. 

Beet-root, baked or boiled, blanched endive, small salad-herbs which 
are easily raised at any time of the year, celery, and hardy lettuces, 
with any ready-dressed vegetable, will supply salads through the winter.. 
Cucumber vinegar is an agreeable addition to these. 

FRENCH SALAD. 

In winter this is made principally of beautifully-blanched endive, 
washed delicately clean and broken into small branches with the fingers, 
then taken from the water and shaken dry in a basket kept for the pur- 
pose, or in a fine cloth ; then arranged in the salad-bowl, and strewed 
with herbs (tarragon generally, when in season) minced small: the 
dressing is not added until just before the salad is eaten. In summer, 
young lettuces are substituted for the endive, and intermixed with a 
variety of herbs, some of which are not generally cultivated in England. 

SUFFOLK SALAD. 

Fill a salad-bowl from half to three parts full with very tender let- 
tuces shred small, minced lean of ham, and hard-boiled eggs, or their 
yolks only, also minced, placed in alternate layers ; dress the mixture 
with English salad-sauce, but do not pour it into the bowl until the in- 
stant of serving. A portion of cold chicken, cut in thin slices about the 
size of a shilling, may be added when convenient. 

YORKSHIRE PLOUGHMAN'S SALAD. 

Mix treacle and vinegar, in the proportion of one tablespoonful of the 
first to two of the latter; add a little black pepper, and eat the sauce 
with lettuces shred small (with an intermixture of young onions when 
they are liked.) This, though certainly not a very, refined order of 
salad, is scarcely so unpalatable as such ingredients would seem to 
promise. 

TO BOIL CAULIFLOWERS. 

Trim off the outside leaves, and cut the stems quite close to the cauli- 
flowers; let them lie for an hour in plenty of cold water, with a hand- 
ful of salt in it, to draw out any insects that may be amongst them; 
then wash them very thoroughly, and examine them well, to be assured 
that no snail is left in any part of them, throw them into a large pan of 



240 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XV. 

boiling water, salted as for asparagus, and quite cleared from scum ; for 
this, if not removed, will adhere to the cauliflowers and spoil their 
appearance. When the stalks are tender lift them out, dish them 
neatly, and send good melted butter to table with them. 
20 to 30 minutes. 

cauliflowers. {French Receipt.) 
Cut the cauliflowers into small handsome tufts, and boil them until 
three parts done, drain them well, toss them for a moment in some thick 
melted butter or white sauce, and set them by to cool. When they are 
quite cold, dip them separately into the batter of page 130, fry them a 
light brown, arrange them neatly in a dish, and serve them very hot. 

BROCCOLI. 

This is boiled, and served in the same manner as cauliflowers when 
the heads are large ; the stems of the branching broccoli are peeled, and 
the vegetable, tied in bunches, is dressed and served, like asparagus, 
upon a toast. 

10 to 20 minutes. 

TO BOIL ARTICHOKES. 

After they have been soaked and well washed, cut off the stems quite 
close, trim away a few of the lower leaves, and clip the points of all; 
throw the artichokes into plenty of fast boiling water, ready salted and 
skimmed, with the addition, if it be at hand, of the proportion of soda 
directed in page 229, as this will greatly improve the colour of the 
vegetable. When extremely young, the artichokes will be tender in 
from half to three quarters of an hour, but they will require more than 
double that time when at their full growth : when the leaves can be 
drawn out easily, they are done. Send good melted butter to table with 
them. They should be boiled always with the stalk-ends uppermost. 

Very young, ^ to £ hour; full grown, 1-]- to 2 hours. 

Obs. — French cooks lift the tops from the artichokes before they are 
served, and replace them after having taken out the chokes: this must 
be expeditiously done to prevent the vegetable from cooling. 

TO BOIL WINTER SQUASH. 

Squash is a rich vegetable, particularly the yellow winter squash. 
This requires more boiling than the summer kind. Pare it, cut in 
pieces, take out the seeds and boil it in a very little water till it is quite 
soft. Then press out all the water, mash it and add a little butter, pep- 
per and salt. 

VEGETABLE MARROW. 

It is customary to gather this when not larger than a turkey's egg, 
but we should say that the vegetable is not then in its perfection. The 
flesh is whiter and of better flavour when the gourd is about six inches 
long ; at least we have found it so with the kinds which have fallen 
under our observation. It may either be boiled in the skin, then pared, 
halved, and served upon a toast; or quartered, freed from the seed, and 
left until cold, then dipped into egg and fine crumbs of bread, and fried; 
or it may be cut into dice, and reheated in a little good white sauce; or 
stewed tender in butter, and served in well-thickened veal gravy, fla- 
voured with a little lemon-juico. It may likewise bo mashed by the 



CHAP. XV.] VEGETABLES. 241 

receipt which we have given for turnips, and in that form will be found 
excellent. The French make a fanciful dish of the marrows thus: they 
boil them tender in water, and halve them lengthwise as is usual, they 
then slice a small bit off" each to make them stand evenly in the dish, 
and after having hollowed the insides, so as to leave a mere shell, about 
half an inch thick, they fill them with a thick rich mince of white meat, 
and pour white sauce round them; or they heap fried crumbs over the 
tops, place the dish in the oven for a few minutes, and serve them with- 
out sauce. 

Size of turkey's egg, 10 to 15 minutes; moderate-sized, 20 to 30; 
large, | to 1 hour. 

TOM AT AS EN SALADE. 

These are now often served in England in the American fashion, 
merely sliced, and dressed like cucumbers, with salt, pepper, oil, and 
vinegar. For various other American modes of preparing them for 
table, see tomata dumplings, Chapter XVII. 

roast tomatas. To serve with roast leg, loin, or shoulder of mutton. 
Select them nearly of the same size, take off the stalks, and roast 
them gently in a Dutch oven, or if more convenient, place them at the 
edge of the dripping-pan, taking care that no fat from the joint shall fall 
upon them, and keeping them turned that they may be equally done. 
From ten to fourteen minutes will roast them. 

STEWED TOMATAS. 

Arrange them in a single layer, and pour to them as much gravy as 
will reach to half their height; stew them very softly until the under 
sides are done, then turn, and finish stewing them. Thicken the gravy 
with a little arrow-root and cream, or with flour and butter, and serve 
it round them. 

forced tomatas ; {English Receipt.) 

Cut the stems quite close, slice off the tops of eight fine tomatas, and 
scoop out the insides; press the pulp through a sieve, and mix with it 
one ounce of fine crumbs of bread, one of butter, broken very small, 
some pepper, or cayenne, and salt. Fill the tomatas with the mixture, 
and bake them ten minutes in a moderate oven ; serve them with brown 
gravy in the dish. A few small mushrooms, stewed tender in a little 
butter, then minced and added to the tomata pulp, will very much im- 
prove this receipt. 

Baked 10 minutes. 

forced tomatas ; {French Receipt.') 
Let the tomatas be well shaped and of equal size; divide them nearly 
in the middle, leaving the blossom-side the largest, as this only is to be 
used; empty them carefully of their seeds and juice, and fill them with 
the following ingredients, which must previously be stewed tender in 
butter, but without being allowed to brown : minced mushrooms and 
shalots, with a moderate proportion of parsley, some lean of ham chopped 
small, a seasoning bf cayenne, and a little fine salt, if needed ; let them 
cool, then mix with them about a third as much of fine crumbs of bread, 
and two yolks of eggs; fill the tomatas, cover them with fine crumbs, 
moisten them with clarified butter, and bake them in a brisk oven until 
J5 



242 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XV. 

they are well coloured. Serve them as a garnish to stewed rump or 
sirloin of beef, or to a boned and forced leg- of mutton. 

Minced lean of ham, 2 ozs. ; mushrooms, 2 ozs. ; bread-crumbs, 2 
ozs. ; shalots, 4 to 8 ; parsley, full teaspooniul ; cayenne, quarter salt- 
spoonful ; little salt, if needed ; butter, 2 ozs. ; yolks of eggs, 2 to 3 : 
baked, 10 to 20 minutes. 

Obs. — The French pound the whole of these ingredients with a bit 
of garlic, before they rill the tomatas with them, but this is not abso- 
lutely necessary, and the garlic, if added at all, should be parboiled 
first, as its strong flavour, combined with that of the eschalots, would 
scarcely suit the general taste. When the lean of a dressed ham is at 
hand, only the herbs and vegetables will need to be stewed in the but- 
ter; this should be mixed with them into the forcemeat, which an 
intelligent cook will vary in many ways. 

PUREE OF TOMATAS. 

Divide a dozen fine ripe tomatas, squeeze out the seeds, and take off 
the stalks; put, them with one small mild onion (or more, if liked), and 
about half a pint of very good gravy, into a well-tinned stewpan or 
saucepan, and simmer them for nearly or quite an hour; a couple of 
bay-leaves, some cayenne, and as much salt as the dish may require 
should be added when they begin to boil. Press them through a sieve, 
heat them again, and stir to them a quarter-pint of good cream, previ- 
ously mixed and boiled for five minutes with a teaspoon ful of flour. 
This puree is to be served with calf's head, veal cutlets, boiled knuckle 
of veal, calf's brains, or beef palates. For pork, beef, geese, and other 
brown meats, the tomatas should be reduced to a proper consistency in 
rich and highly-flavoured brown gravy, or Spanish sauce. 

mushrooms au beurre ; (delicious.) 
Cut the stems from some fine meadow mushroom-buttons, and clean 
them with a bit of new flannel and some fine salt, then either wipe them 
dry with a soft cloth, or rinse them in fresh water, drain them quickly, 
spread them in a clean cloth, fold it over them, and leave them ten 
minutes, or more, to dry. For every pint of them thus prepared, put an 
ounce and a half of fresh butter into a thick iron saucepan, shake it ovei 
the fire until it just begins to brown, throw in the mushrooms, continue 
to shake the saucepan over a clear fire, that they may not stick to it, 
nor burn, and when they have simmered three or four minutes, strew 
over them a little salt, some cayenne, and pounded mace ; stew them 
until they are perfectly tender, heap them in a dish, and serve them 
with their own sauce only, for breakfast, supper, or luncheon. Nothing 
can be finer than the flavour of the mushrooms thus prepared ; and the 
addition of any liquid is far from an improvement to it. They are very 
good when drained from the butter and served cold, and in a cool larder 
may be kept for several days. The butter in which they are stewed is 
admirable for flavouring gravies, sauces, or potted meats. Small flaps, 
freed from the fur and skin, may be stewed in the same way ; and either 
these or the buttons, served under roast poultry or partridges, will give 
a dish of very superior relish. 

Meadow mushrooms, 3 pints, fresh butter, 4^ ozs. : 3 to 5 minutes. 
Salt, 1 small teaspoonful ; mace, half as much ; cayenne, third of salt- 



CHAr. XV.] VEGETABLES. 243 

spoonful : 10 to 15 minutes. More spices to be added if required — 
much depending on their quality ; but they should not overpower the 
flavour of the mushrooms. 

Obs. — Persons inhabiting parts of the country where mushrooms are 
abundant, may send them easily, when thus prepared (or when potted 
by the following receipt), to their friends in cities, or in less productive 
counties. If poured into jars, with sufficient butter to cover them, they 
will travel any distance, and can be rewarmed for use. 

POTTED MUSHROOMS. 

Prepare either small flaps or buttons with great nicety, without wet- 
ting them, and wipe the former very dry, after the application of the 
salt and flannel. Stew them quite tender, with the same proportion 
of butter as the mushrooms au beurre, but increase a little the quantity 
of spice ; when they are done turn them into a large dish, spread them 
over one end of it, and raise it two or three inches, that they may be 
well drained from the butter. As soon as they are quite cold, press 
them very closely into small potting-pans ; pour lukewarm clarified 
butter thickly over them, and store them in a cool dry place. If in- 
tended for present use, merely turn them down upon a clean shelf; but 
for longer keeping, cover the tops first with very dry paper, and then 
with melted mutton-suet. We have ourselves had the mushrooms, after 
being simply spread upon a dish while hot, remain perfectly good in 
that state for seven or eight weeks: they were prepared late in the 
season, and the weather was consequently cool during the interval. 

MUSHROOM-TOAST, OR CROUTE AUX CHAMPIGNONS*, (excellent.) 

Cut the stems closely from a quart, or more, of small just-opened 
mushrooms, peel them, and take out the fur. Dissolve from two to 
three ounces of fresh butter in a well-tinned saucepan or stewpan ; put 
in the mushrooms, strew over them a quarter-tea spoonful of pounded 
mace mixed with a little cayenne, and let them stew over a gentle fire 
from ten to fifteen minutes; toss or stir them often during the time; 
then add a small dessertspoonful of flour, and shake the pan round until 
it is lightly browned. Next pour in, by slow degrees, half a pint of 
gravy or of good beef-broth; and when the mushrooms have stewed 
softly in this for a couple of minutes, throw in a little salt, and a squeeze 
of lemon-juice, and pour them on to a crust, cut about an inch and a 
quarter thick, from the under part of a moderate-sized loaf, and fried in 
good butter to a light brown, after having been first slightly hol- 
lowed in the inside. New milk, or thin cream, may be used with very 
good effect instead of the gravy; but a few strips of lemon-rind, and a 
small portion of nutmeg and mushroom-catsup should then be added to 
the sauce. The bread may be buttered and grilled over a gentle fire 
instead of being fried, and is better so. 

Small mushrooms, 4 to 5 half pints; butter, 3 to 4 ozs. ; mace, mixed 
with a little cayenne, \ teaspoonful : stewed softly 10 to 15 minutes. 
Flour, 1 small dessertspoonful: 3 to 5 minutes. Gravy or broth, \ pint: 
2 minutes. Little salt and lemon-juice. 

TO BOIL SPROUTS, CABBAGES, SAVOYS, LETTUCES, OR ENDIVE. 

All green vegetables should be thrown into abundance of fast-boiling 
water ready salted and skimmed, with the addition of the morsel of soda 



244 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XV. 

which we have recommended, in a previous page of this chapter; the 
pan should be left uncovered, and every precaution taken to prevent the 
smoke from reaching its contents. Endive, sprouts, and spring greens, 
will only require copious washing before they are boiled ; bat savoys, 
large lettuces, and close-leaved cabbages should be thrown into salt and 
water for half an hour or more before they are dressed, with the tops 
downwards to draw out the insects. The stems of these last should be 
cut off, the decayed leaves stripped away, and the vegetable halved or 
quartered, or split deeply across the stalk-end, and divided entirely 
before it is dished. 

Very young greens, 15 to 20 minutes; lettuces, 20 to 30 minutes; 
large savoys, or cabbages, 1 to lh hour, or more. 

Obs. — When the stalk of any kind of cabbage is tender, it is done. 
Turnip-greens should be well washed in several waters, and boiled in a 
very large quantity to deprive them of their bitterness. 

STEWED CABBAGE. 

Cut out the stalk entirely, and slice a fine firm cabbage or two in very 
thin strips; throw them alter they have been well washed and drained, 
into a large pan of boiling water ready salted and skimmed, and when 
they are tender, which will be in from ten to fifteen minutes, pour them 
into a sieve or strainer, press the water thoroughly from them, and chop 
them slightly. Put into a very clean saucepan about a couple of ounces 
of butter, and when it is dissolved add the cabbage, with sufficient pep- 
per and salt to season it, and stir it over a clear fire until it appears 
tolerably dry ; then shake lightly in a tablespoonful of flour, turn the 
whole well, and add by slow degrees a cup of thick cream : veal gravy 
or good white sauce may be substituted for this, when preferred to it. 

TO BOIL TURNIPS. 

Pare entirely from them the stringy rind, and either split the turnips 
once or leave them whole; throw them into boiling water slightly salted, 
and keep them closely covered from smoke and dust till they are tender. 
When small and young they will be done in from fifteen to twenty 
minutes; at their full growth they will require from three quarters to a 
full hour, or more, of gentle boiling. After they become old and woolly, 
they are not worth dressing in any way. When boiled in their skins 
and pared afterwards, they are said to be of better flavour and much 
less watery than when cooked in the usual way. 

Young turnips, 15 to 20 minutes: full grown, £ to 1 hour, or more. 

TO MASH TURNIPS. 

Split them once or even twice should they be large ; after they are 
pared, boil them very tender, and press the water thoroughly from them 
with a couple of trenchers, or with the back of a large plate and one 
trencher. To ensure their being free from lumps, it is better to pass 
them through a cullender or coarse hair-sieve, with a wooden spoon ; 
though, when quite young, they may be worked sufficiently smooth 
without this. Put them into a clean saucepan, and stir them constantly 
for some minutes over a gentle fire, that they may be very dry ; then add 
some salt, a bit of fresh butter, and a little cream, or in lieu of this new 
milk (we would also recommend a seasoning of white pepper or cayenne, 
when appearance and fashion are not particularly regarded), and con 



CHAP. XV.] VEGETABLES. 245 

tinue to simmer and to stir them for five or six minutes longer, or until 
they have quite absorbed all the liquid which has been poured to them. 
Serve them always as hot as possible. This is an excellent receipt. 

Turnips, weighed after they are pared, 3 lbs. : dried 5 to 8 minutes. 
Salt, 1 teaspoon ful; butter, 1 oz. to \\ oz. ; cream or milk, nearly \ 
pint : 5 or 6 minutes. 

TURNIPS IN WHITE SAUCE. (ENTREMETS.) 

When no scoop for the purpose is at hand, cut some small finely- 
grained turnips into quarters, and pare them into balls, or into the shape 
of plums or pears of equal size ; arrange them evenly in a broad stew- 
pan or saucepan, and cover them nearly with good veal broth, throw in 
a little salt, and a morsel of sugar, and boil them rather quickly until 
they are quite tender, but unbroken ; lift them out, draining them well 
from the broth ; dish, and pour over them some thick white sauce. As 
an economy, a cup of cream, and a teaspoonful of arrowroot, may be 
added to the broth in which the turnips have stewed, to make the sauce ; 
and when it boils, a small slice of butter may be stirred and well worked 
into it, should it not be sufficiently rich without. 

TURNIPS STEWED IN BUTTER. (GOOD.) 

This is an excellent way of dressing the vegetable when it is mild 
and finely grained ; but its flavour otherwise is too strong to be agreea- 
ble. After they have been washed, wiped quite dry, and pared, slice 
the turnips nearly half an inch thick, and divide them into dice. Just 
dissolve an ounce of butter for each half-pound of the turnips, put them 
in as flat as they can be, and stew them very gently indeed, from three 
quarters of an hour to a full hour. Add a seasoning of salt and white 
pepper when they are half done. When thus prepared, they may be 
dished over fried or nicely broiled mutton cutlets, or served by them- 
selves. 

For a small dish : turnips, 1^ lb. ; butter, 3 ozs. ; seasoning of white 
pepper ; salt, \ teaspoonful, or more : | to 1 hour. Large dish, turnips, 
2 lbs. ; butter, 4 ozs. 

TURNIPS IN GRAVY. 

To a pound of turnips sliced and cut into dice, pour a quarter-pint of 
boiling veal gravy, add a small lump of sugar, some salt and cayenne, 
or white pepper, and boil them quickly from fifty lo sixty minutes. 
Serve them very hot. 

TO BOIL CARROTS. 

Wash the mould from them, and scrape the skin off lightly with the 
edge of a sharp knife, or, should this be objected to, pare them as thin 
and as equally as possible; in either case free them from all blemishes, 
and should they be very large, split them across the tops a few inches 
down ; rinse them well, and throw them into plenty of boiling watei 
with some salt in it. The skin of very young carrots may be rubbed 
off like that of new potatoes, and from twenty to thirty minutes will 
then be sufficient to boil them; but at their full growth they will require 
from an hour and a half to two hours. It was formerly the custom to 
tie them in a cloth, and to wipe the skin from them with it after they 
were dressed ; and old-fashioned cooks still use one to remove it ; but 



246 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XV 

all vegetables should, we think, be dished and served with the least 
possible delay after they are ready for table. Melted butter should 
accompany boiled carrots. 

Very young- carrots, 20 to 30 minutes. Full-grown ones, 1 § to 2 
hours. 

SWEET CARROTS. (ENTREMETS.) 

Boil quite tender some fine highly-flavoured carrots, press the water 
from them, and rub them through the back of a fine hair-sieve ; put 
them into a clean saucepan or stewpan, and dry them thoroughly over 
a gentle fire ; then add a slice of fresh butter, and when this is dis- 
solved and well mixed with them, strew in a dessertspoonful or more 
of powdered sugar, and a little salt; next, stir in by degrees some good 
cream, and when this is quite absorbed, and the carrots again appear 
dry, dish and serve them quickly with small sippets, d la Reine (see 
page 40), placed round them* 

Carrots, 3 lbs., boiled quite tender: stirred over a gentle fire 5 to 10 
minutes. Butter, 2 ozs. ; salt, ^ teaspoonful ; pounded sugar, 1 dessert- 
spoonful; cream, \ pinf» stewed gently together until quite dry. 

Obs. — For excellent mashed carrots omit the sugar, add a good sea- 
soning of salt and white pepper, and half a pint of rich brown gravy ; or 
for a plain dinner rather less than this of milk. 

CARROTS AU BEURRE, OR BUTTERED CARROTS. 

Either boil sufficient carrots for a dish quite tender, and then cut them 
into slices a quarter-inch thick, or first slice, and then boil them: the 
latter method is the most expeditious, but the other best preserves the 
flavour of the vegetable. Drain them well, and while this is being done 
just dissolve from two to four ounces of butter in a saucepan, and strew 
in some minced parsley, some salt, and white pepper or cayenne; then 
add the carrots, and toss them very gently until they are equally covered 
with the sauce, which should not be allowed to boil : the parsley may 
be omitted at pleasure. Cold carrots may be rewarmed in this way. 

TO BOIL PARSNEPS. 

These are dressed in precisely the same manner as carrots, but re- 
quire much less boiling. According to their quality and the time of 
year, they will take from twenty minutes to nearly an hour. Every 
speck or blemish should be cut from them after they are scraped, and 
the water in which they are boiled should be well skimmed. They are 
a favourite accompaniment to salt-fish and boiled pork, and may be 
served either mashed or plain. 

20 to 55 minutes. 

FRIED PARSNEPS. 

Boil them until they are about half done, lift them out, and let them 
cool; slice them rather thickly, sprinkle them with fine salt and white 
pepper, and fry them a pale brown in good butter. Serve them with 
roast meat, or dish them under it. 

JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES. 

Wash the artichokes, pare them quickly, and throw them as they are 
done into a saucepan of cold water, or of equal parts of milk and water; 
and when they are about half boiled add a little salt to them. Take 



CHAP. XV.] VEGETABLES. 247 

them up the instant they are perfectly tender: this will be .n from 
fifteen to twenty-five minutes, so much do they vary as to the time 
necessary to dress them. If allowed to remain in the water after they 
are done, they become black and flavourless. Melted butter should 
always be sent to table with them. 
15 to 25 minutes. 

TO FRY JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES. (ENTREMETS ) 

Boil them from eight to twelve minutes; lift them out, drain them 
on a sieve, and let them cool; dip them into beaten eggs, and cover 
them with fine bread-crumbs. Fry them a light brown, drain, pile them 
in a hot dish, and serve them quickly. 

HARICOTS BLANCS. 

The haricot blanc is the seed of a particular kind of French bean, of 
which we find some difficulty in ascertaining the English name, for 
though we have tried several which resemble it in appearance, we have 
found their flavour, after they were dressed, very different, and far from 
agreeable. The large white Dutch runner is, we believe, the proper 
variety for cooking; at least we have obtained a small quantity under 
that name, which approached much more nearly than any others we 
had tried to those which we had eaten abroad. The haricots, when 
freshly harvested, may be thrown into plenty of boiling water, with 
some salt and a small bit of butter; if old, they must be previously 
soaked for an hour or two, put into cold water, brought to boil gently, 
and simmered until they are tender, for if boiled fast the skins will burst 
before the beans are done. Drain them thoroughly from the water when 
*hey are ready, and lay them into a clean saucepan over two or three 
ounces of fresh butter, a small dessertspoonful of chopped parsley, and 
sufficient salt and pepper to season the whole ; then gently shake or 
toss the beans until they are quite hot and equally covered with the 
sauce; add the strained juice of half a lemon, and serve them quickly. 
The vegetable thus dressed is excellent; and it affords a convenient 
resource in the season when the supply of other kinds is scantiest. In 
some countries the dried beans are placed in water, over-night, upon a 
stove, and by a very gentle degree of warmth are sufficiently softened 
by the following day to be served as follows: — they are drained from 
the water, spread on a clean cloth and wiped quite dry, then lightly 
floured and fried in oil or butter, with a seasoning of pepper and salt, 
lifted into a hot dish, and served under roast beef, or mutton. 

TO BOIL BEET ROOT. 

Wash the roots delicately clean, but .neither scrape nor cut them, aa 
not a fibre even should be trimmed away, until after they are dressed. 
Throw them into boiling water, and according to their size boil them 
from one hour and a half to two hours and a half. Pare and serve them 
whole, or thickly sliced, and send melted butter to table with them. 
B6et-root is often mixed with winter salads ; and it makes a pickle of 
beautiful colour;, but one of the most usual modes of serving it at the 
present day is, with the cheese, cold and merely pared and sliced, after 
having been boiled or baked. 

H to2| hours. Baked, 2| to 3^ hours. 

Obs. — This root must not be probed with a fork like other vegeta- 



248 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAI\ XV 

bles, to ascertain if it be done or not; but the cook must endeavour, by 
attention, to learn the time required for it. After it is lifted out, the 
thickest part may be pressed with the fingers, to which it will yield, if 
it be sufficiently boiled. 

TO BAKE BEET ROOT. 

Beet root, if slowly and carefully baked until it is tender quite 
through, is very rich and sweet in flavour, although less bright in 
colour than when it is boiled : it is also, we believe, remarkably nutri- 
tious and wholesome. Wash and wipe it very dry, but neither cut nor 
break any part of it ; then lay it into a coarse dish, and bake it in a 
•jentle oven for four or five hours : it will sometimes require even a longer 
me than this. Pare it quickly if to be served hot ; but leave it to cool 
rst, when it is to be sent to table cold. 

The white beet-root is dressed exactly like the red : the leaves of it 
re boiled and served like asparagus. 
In slow oven from 4 to 6 hours. 

STEWED BEET ROOT. 

Bake or boil it tolerably tender, and let it remain until it is cold, then 
pare and cut it into slices ; heat and stew it for a short time in some 
good pale veal gravy (or in strong veal broth for ordinary occasions), 
Ihicken this with a teaspoonful of arrow-root, and half a cupful or more 
if good cream, and stir in, as it is taken from the fire, from a tea to a 
.ablespoonful of vinegar. The beet may be served likewise in thick 
white sauce, to which, just before it is dished, the mild eschalots of 
page 138 may be added. 

to stew red cabbace. (Flemish Receipt.) 
Strip the outer leaves from a fine and fresh red cabbage; wash it 
well, and cut it into the thinnest possible slices, beginning at the top ; 
put it into a thick saucepan in which two or three ounces of good but- 
ter have been just dissolved ; add some pepper and salt, and stew it very 
slowly indeed lor three or four hours in its own juice, keeping it often 
stirred, and well pressed down. When it is perfectly tender add a 
tablespoonful of vinegar; mix the whole up thoroughly, heap the cab- 
bage in a hot dish, and serve broiled sausages round it; or omit these 
last, and substitute lemon-juice, cayenne pepper, and a half-cupful of 
good gravy. 

The stalk of the cabbage should be split in quarters and taken en- 
tirely out in the first instance. 
3 to 4 hours. 

BOILED CELERY. 

This vegetable is extremely good dressed like sea-kale, and served 
on a toast with rich melted butter. Let it be freshly dug, wash it with 
great nicety, trim the ends, take off the coarse outer-leaves, cut the 
roots of equal length, tie them in bunches, and boil them in plenty 
of water, with the usual proportion of salt, from twenty to thirty 
minutes. 

20 to 30 minutes. 

STEWED CELERY. 

Cut five or six fine roots of celery to the length of the inside of the 
dish in which they are to be served; free them from all the coarser 



CHAP. XV.] VEGETABLES. 249 

leaves, and from the green tops, trim the root ends neatly, and wash 
the vegetable in several waters till it is as clean as possible ; then, 
either boil it tender with a little salt, and a bit of fresh butter the size 
of a walnut, in just sufficient water to cover it quite, drain it well, 
arrange it on a very hot dish, and pour a thick bechamel, or white sauce 
over it; or stew it in broth or common stock, and serve it with very 
rich, thickened, Espagnole or brown gravy. It has a higher flavour 
when partially stewed in the sauce, after being drained thoroughly from 
the broth. Unless very large and old, it will be done in from twenty- 
five to thirty minutes, but if not quite tender, longer time must be al- 
lowed for it. A cheap and expeditious method of preparing this dish is 
to slice the celery, to simmer it until soft in as much good broth as will 
only just cover it, and to add a thickening of flour and butter, or arrow- 
root, with some salt, pepper, and a small cupful of cream. 
25 to 30 minutes, or more. 

STEWED ONIONS. 

Strip the outer skin from four or five fine Portugal onions, and trim 
the ends, but without cutting into the vegetable ; arrange them in a 
saucepan of sufficient size to contain them all in one layer; just cover 
them with good beef, or veal gravy, and stew them very gently indeed 
for a couple of hours : they should be tender quite through, but should 
not be allowed to fall to pieces. When large, but not mild onions are 
used, they should be first boiled for half an hour in plenty of water, 
then drained from it, and put into boiling gravy r strong, well-flavoured 
broth of veal or beef, is sometimes substituted for this, and with the 
addition of a little catsup, spice, and thickening answers very well. 
The savour of this dish is heightened by flouring lightly and frying the 
onions of a pale brown before they are stewed. 

Portugal onions, 4 or 5 (if fried, 15 to 20 minutes) ; broth or gravy, 1 
to 1 h pint : nearly or quite 2 hours. 

Obs. — When the quantity of gravy is considered too much, the onions 
may be only half covered, and turned when the under side is tender, but 
longer time must be allowed for stewing them. 

TO FRY ONIONS. 

Peel and slice them evenly, have ready a pan of hot butter, or salt- 
pork fat, and fry the onions till slightly browned. 

TO BOIL ONIONS. 

Take onions of the same size, peel and wash them, lay them in some 
pan or kettle with a broad bottom, so that the onions may not be piled 
one upon another. Cover them with water, or milk and water if you 
like them very mild, and let them simmer slowly for 20 minutes, or till 
done. 



250 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XVI. 



CHAPTER XVI. 

PASTRY. 

INTRODUCTORY REMARKS. 

The greatest possible cleanliness and nicety should be observed in 
making- pastry. The slab or board, paste-rollers, tins, cutters, stamps, 
everything-, in fact, used for it, and especially the hands (for these last 
are not always so scrupulously attended to as they ought to be), should 
be equally free from the slightest soil or particle of dust. The more 
expeditiously the finer kinds of crust are made and despatched to the 
oven, and the less they are touched, the better. Much of their excel- 
lence depends upon the baking also; they should have a sufficient de- 
gree of heat to raise them quickly, but not so fierce a one as to colour 
them too much before they are done, and still less to burn them. The 
oven-door should remain closed after they are put in, and not be 
removed until the paste is set. Large raised pies require a steadily- 
sustained, or, what is technically called a soaking heat, and to ensure 
this the oven should be made very hot, then cleared, and closely shut 
from half to a whole hour before it is used, to concentrate the heat. It 
is an advantage in this case to have a large log or two of cord-wood 
burned in it, in addition to the usual firing. 

In mixing paste, the water should be added gradually, and the whole 
gently drawn together with the fingers, until sufficient has been added, 
when it should be lightly kneaded until it is as smooth as possible. 
When carelessly made, the surface is often left covered with small dry 
crumbs or lumps; or the water is poured in heedlessly in so large a 
proportion that it becomes necessary to add more flour to render it 
workable in any way ; and this ought particularly to be avoided when a 
certain weight of all the ingredients has been taken. 

TO GLAZE OR ICE PASTRY. 

The fine yellow glaze appropriate to meat pies is given with beaten 
yolk of egg, which should be laid on with a paste brush, or a small 
bunch of feathers : if a lighter colour be wished for, whisk the whole of 
the egg together, or mix a little milk with the yolk. 

The best mode of icing fruit-tarts before they are sent to the oven is, 
to moisten the paste with cold water, to sift sugar thickly upon it, and 
to press it lightly on with the hand ; but when a whiter icing is preferred, 
the pastry must be drawn from the oven when nearly baked, and brushed 
with white of egg, whisked to a froth ; then well covered with the sifted 
sugar, and sprinkled with a few drops of water before it is put in again : 
this glazing answers also very well, though it takes a slight colour, if 
used before the pastry is baked. 

FEUILLETAGE, OR FINE FRENCH PUFF PASTE. 

This, wnen made by a good French cook, is the perfection of rich 
light crust, and will rise in the oven from one to six inches in height; 
but some practice is, without doubt, necessary to accomplish this. In 
summer it is a great advantage to have ice at hand, and to harden the 



CHAP. XVI.] PASTRY. 251 

butter over it before it is used ; the paste also in the intervals of rolling 
is improved by being laid on an oven-leaf over a vessel containing it. 
Take an equal weight of good butter free from the coarse salt which is 
found in some, and which is disadvantageous for this paste, and of fine 
dry, sifted flour; to each pound of these allow the yolks of a couple of 
eggs, and a small teaspoonful of salt. Break a few small bits of the 
butter very lightly into the flour, put the salt into the centre, and pour 
on it sufficient water to dissolve it (we do not quite understand why the 
doing this should be better than mixing it with the flour, as in other 
pastes, but such is the method always pursued for it) ; add a little more 
water to the eggs, moisten the flour gradually, and make it into a very 
smooth paste, rather lithe in summer, and never exceedingly stiff, though 
the opposite fault, in an extreme, would render the crust unmanageable. 
Press, in a soft thin cloth, all the moisture from the remainder of the 
butter, and form it into a ball, but in doing this be careful not to soften 
it too much. Should it be in an unfit state for pastry, from the heat of 
the weather, put it into a basin, and set the basin in a pan of water 
mixed with plenty of salt and saltpetre, and let it remain in a cool place 
for an hour if possible, before it is used. When it is ready (and the 
paste should never be commenced until it be so), roll the crust out 
square,* and of sufficient size to enclose the butter, flatten this a little 
upon it in the centre, and then fold the crust well over it, and roll it out 
thin as lightly as possible, after having dredged the board and paste- 
roller with a little flour : this is called giving it one turn. Then fold it. 
in three, give it another turn, and set it aside, where it will be very cool, 
for a few minutes; give it two more turns in the same way, rolling it 
each time very lightly, but of equal thickness, and to the full length 
that it will reach, taking always especial care that the butter shall not 
break through the paste. Let it again be set aside to become cold ; and 
after it has been twice more rolled and folded in three, give it a half- 
turn, by folding it once only, and it will be ready for use. 

Equal weight of the finest flour and good butter ; to each pound of 
these, the yolks of two eggs, and a small saltspoonful of salt: 6^ turns 
to be given to the paste. 

VERY GOOD LIGHT PASTE. 

Mix with a pound of sifted flour six ounces of fresh, pure lard, and 
make them into a smooth paste with cold water ; press the buttermilk 
from ten ounces of butter, and form it into a ball, by twisting it in a 
clean cloth. Roll out the paste, put the ball of butter in the middle, 
close it like an apple-dumpling, and roll it very lightly until it is less 
than an inch thick ; fold the ends into the middle, dust a little flour over 
the board and paste-roller, and roll the paste thin a second time, then set 
it aside for three or four minutes in a very cool place ; give it two more 
turns, and after it has again been left for a few minutes, roll it out 
twice more, folding it each time in three. This ought to render it fit 
for use. The sooner this paste is sent to the oven after it is made, the 
lighter it will be : if allowed to remain long before it is baked, it will 
be tough and heavy. 

Flour, 1 lb. ; lard, 6 ozs. ; butter, 10 ozs. ; little salt. 



* The learner will perhaps find it easier to fold the paste securely 
form of a dumpling, until a little experience has been acquired. 



round it in the 



252 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XVI. 

ENGLISH PUFF-PASTE. 

Break lightly into a couple of pounds of dried and sifted flour, eight 
ounces of butter; add a pinch of salt, and sufficient cold water to make 
the paste ; work it as quickly and as lightly as possible, until it is smooth 
and pliable, then level it with the paste-roller until it is three-quarters 
of an inch thick, and place regularly upon it six ounces of butter in 
small bits; fold the paste like a blanket-pudding, roll it out again, lay 
on it six ounces more of butter, repeat the rolling, dusting each time a 
little flour over the board and paste, add again six ounces of butter, and 
roll the paste out thin three or four times, folding the ends into the 
middle. 

Flour, 2 lbs. ; little salt; butter, 1 lb. 10 ozs. 

If very rich paste be required, equal portions of flour and butter must 
be used ; and the latter may be divided into two, instead of three parts, 
when it is to be rolled in. 

cream crust ; (very good.) 

Stir a little fine salt into a pound of dry flour, and mix gradually 
with it sufficient very thick, sweet cream to form a smooth paste; it will 
be found sufficiently good for common family dinners, without the addi- 
tion of butter ; but to make an excellent crust, roll in four ounces in the 
usual way, after having given the paste a couple of turns. Handle it 
as lightly as possible in making it, and send it to the oven as soon as it 
is ready ; it may be used for fruit tarts, cannelons, puffs, and other 
varieties of small pastry, or for good meat-pies. Six ounces of butter 
to the pound of flour will give a very rich crust. 

Flour, 1 lb. ; salt, 1 small saltspoonful (more for meat pies) ; rich 
cream, ^ to | pint ; butter, 4 ozs. ; for richest crust, 6 ozs. 

PATE BRISEE, OR FRENCH CRUST FOR HOT OR COLD *MEAT-PIES. 

Sift two pounds and a quarter of fine dry flour, and break into it one 
pound of butter, work them together with the fingers until they resem- 
ble fine crumbs of bread, then add a small teaspoonful of salt, and make 
them into a firm paste, with the yolks of four eggs, well beaten, mixed 
with half a pint of cold water, and strained : or for a somewhat richer 
crust of the same kind, take two pounds of flour, one of butter, the 
yolks of four eggs, half an ounce of salt, and less than the half-pint of 
water, and work the whole well until the paste is perfectly smooth. 

Flour, 2£ lbs.; butter, 1 lb.; salt, 1 small teaspoonful; yolks of eggs, 
4 ; water, i pint. Or ; flour, 2 lbs. ; butter, 1 lb. ; yolks of eggs, 4 ; 
water, less than $ pint. 

FLEAD CRUST. 

Flead is the provincial name for the leaf, or inside fat of a pig, which 
makes excellent crust when fresh, much finer, indeed, than after it is 
melted into lard. Clear it quite from skin, and slice it very thin into 
the flour, add sufficient salt to give flavour to the paste, and make the 
whole up smooth and firm with cold water; lay it on a clean dresser, 
and beat it forcibly with a rolling-pin until the flead is blended perfectly 
with the flour. It may then be made into cakes with a paste-cutter, or 
used for pies, round the edges of which a knife should be passed, as the 
crust rises better when cut than if merely rolled to the proper size. 
With the addition of a small quantity of butter, which may either be 



CHAP. XVI.] PASTRY. 253 

broken into the flour before the flead is mixed with it, or rolled into the 
paste after it is beaten, it will be found equal to fine puff crust, with the 
advantage of being more easy of digestion. 

Quite common crust: flour, l£ lb. ; flead, 8 ozs. ; salt, 1 small tea- 
spoonful. Good common crust : flour, 1 lb. ; flead, 6 ozs. ; butter, 2 ozs. 
Rich crust : flead, £ lb. ; butter, 2 ozs. ; flour, 1 lb. The crust is very 
good when made without any butter. 

COMMON SUET-CRUST FOR PIES. 

In many families this is preferred both for pies and tarts, to crust made 
with butter, as being much more wholesome ; but it should never be 
served unless especially ordered, as it is to some persons peculiarly dis- 
tasteful. Chop the suet extremely small, and add from six to eight 
ounces of it to a pound of flour, with a few grains of salt; mix these 
with cold water into a firm paste, and work it very smooth. Some 
cooks beat it with a paste-roller, until the suet is perfectly blended with 
the flour ; but the crust is lighter without this. In exceedingly sultry 
weather the suet, not being firm enough to chop, may be sliced as thin 
as possible, and well beaten into the paste after it is worked up. 

Flour, 2 lbs. ; beef or veal kidney-suet, 12 to 16 ozs. ; salt (for fruit- 
pies), i teaspoonful; for meat-pies, 1 teaspoonful. 

VERY SUPERIOR SUET-CBUST. 

Strip the skin entirely from some fresh veal or beef kidney-suet ; chop, 
and then put it into the mortar, with a small quantity of pure-flavoured 
lard, oil, or butter, and pound it perfectly smooth : it may then be used 
for crust in the same way that butter is, in making puff-paste, and in 
this form will be found a most excellent substitute for it, for hot pies or 
tarts. It is not quite so good for those which are to be served cold. 
Eight ounces of suet pounded with two of butter, and worked with the 
fingers into a pound of flour, will make an exceedingly good short crust; 
hut for a very rich one, the proportion must be increased. 

Good short crust : flour, 1 lb. ; suet, 8 ozs. ; butter, 2 ozs. ; salt, ^ 
teaspoonful. Richer crust : suet, 16 ozs. ; butter, 4 ozs. ; flour, 1J? lb. ; 
salt, 1 small teaspoonful. 

VERY RICH SHORT CRUST FOR TARTS. 

Break lightly, with the least possible handling, six ounces of butter 
into eight of flour; add a dessertspoonful of pounded sugar, and two or 
three of water ; roll the paste for several minutes, to blend the ingre- 
dients well, folding it together like puff-crust, and touch it as little as 
possible. 

Flour, 8 ozs. ; butter, 6 ozs. ; pounded sugar, 1 dessertspoonful ; water, 
1 to 2 spoonsful. 

BRIOCHE PASTE. 

The brioche is a rich, light kind of unsweetened bun, or cake, very 
commonly sold, and served to all classes of people in France, where it 
is made in great perfection by good cooks and pastry-cooks. It is 
fashionable at some tables, though in a different form, serving princi- 
pally as a crust to enclose rissoles, or to make cannelons and fritters. 
We have seen it recommended for a vol-au-vent, for which we should 
say it does not answer by any means so well as the fine puff-paste called 
feuilletage. The large proportion of butter and eggs which it contains 



254 MODERN COOKERW [CHAP. XVI. 

render it to many persons highly indigestible ; and we mention this to 
warn invalids against it, as we have known it to cause great suffering 
to persons out of health. To make it, take a couple of pounds* of fine 
dry flour, sifted as for cakes, and separate eight ounces of this from the 
remainder to make the leaven. Put it into a small pan, and mix it 
lightly into a lithe paste, with half an ounce of yeast, and a spoonful 
or two of warm water ; make two or three slight incisions across the 
top, throw a cloth over the pan, and place it near the fire for about 
twenty minutes, to rise. In the interval make a hollow space in the 
centre of the remainder of the flour, and put into it half an ounce of 
salt, as much fine sifted sugar, and half a gill of cream, or a dessert- 
spoonful of water; add a pound of butter, as free from moisture as it 
can be, and quite so from large grains of salt; cut it into small bits, put 
it into the flour, and pour on it one by one six fresh eggs freed from the 
specks; then with the fingers work the flour gently into this mass until 
the whole forms a perfectly smooth, and not stiff paste : a seventh egg, 
or the yolk of one, or even of two, may be added with advantage if the 
flour will absorb them; but the brioche must always be workable, and 
not so moist as to adhere to the board and roller disagreeably. When 
the leaven is well risen spread this paste out, and the leaven over it; 
mix them well together with the hands, then cut the whole into several 
portions, and change them about that the leaven may be incorporated 
perfectly and equally with the other ingredients: when this is done, 
and the brioche is perfectly smooth and pliable, dust some flour on a 
cloth, roll the brioche in it, and lay it into a pan ; place it. in summer in 
a cool place, in winter in a warm one. It is usually made over-night, 
and baked in the early part of the following day. It should then be 
kneaded up afresh the first thing in the morning. To mould it in the 
usual form, make it into balls of uniform size, hollow these a little at 
the top by pressing the thumb round them, brush them over with yolk 
of egg, and put a second much smaller ball into the hollow part of each ; 
glaze them entirely with yolk of egg, and send them to a quick oven 
for half an hour or more. The paste may also be made into the form 
of a large cake, then placed on a tin, or copper oven-leaf, and supported 
with a pasteboard in the baking ; for the form of which see introductory 
page of Chapter XXIII. 

Flour, 2 lbs. ; yeast, ^ oz. ; salt and sugar, each ^ oz. ; butter, 1 lb. ; 
eggs, 6 to 8. 

modern potato pasty; (an excellent family dish.) 

A tin mould of the construction shown in the plate, with a perforated 
moveable top, and a small valve to allow the escape of the steam, must 
be had for this pasty, which is an excellent family dish, and which may 
be varied in numberless ways. Arrange at the bottom of the mould 
from two to three pounds of mutton cutlets, freed, according to the 
taste, from all, or from the greater portion of the fat, then washed, 
lightly dredged on both sides with flour, and seasoned with salt and 
pepper or cayenne. Pour to them sufficient broth or water to make 

* It should he remarked, that the directions for brioche-making are principally de- 
rived from the French, and that the pound in their country weighs two ounces more 
than with us : this difference will account for the difficulty of working in the number 
'if eggs which they generally specify, and which render the paste too moist. 



CIIAr. XVI. PASTRY. 255 

the gravy, and add to it at pleasure a tablespoonful of mushroom catsup 
or of Harvey's sauce. Have ready boiled, and very smoothly mashed, 
with about an ounce of butter, and a spoonful or two of milk or cream 
to each pound, as many good potatoes as will form a crust to the pasty 
of quite three inches thick; put the cover on the mould, and arrange 





these equally upon it, leaving them a little rough on the surface. Bake 
the pastry in a moderate oven from three quarters of an hour to an hour 
and a quarter, according to its size and its contents. Pin a folded nap- 
kin neatly round the mould, before it is served, and have ready a hot 
dish to receive the cover, which must not be lifted off until after the 
pasty is on the table. 

Chicken, or veal and oysters ; delicate pork chops with a seasoning- 
of sage and a little parboiled onion, or an eschalot or two finely minced ; 
partridges or rabbits neatly carved, mixed with small mushrooms, and 
moistened with a little good stock, will all give excellent varieties of 
this dish, which may be made likewise with highly seasoned slices of 
salmon freed from the skin, sprinkled with fine herbs or intermixed 
with shrimps ; clarified butter, rich veal stock, or good white wine, may 
be poured to them to form the gravy. To thicken this, a little flour 
should be dredged upon the fish before it is laid into the mould. Other 
kinds, such as cod, mackerel in fillets, salt fish (previously kept at the 
point of boiling until three parts done, then pulled into flakes, and put 
into the mould with hard eggs sliced, a little cream, flour, butter, cay- 
enne, and anchovy-essence, and baked with mashed parsneps on the 
top), will all answer well for this pasty. Veal, when used for it, should 
be well beaten first: sweetbreads, sliced, may be laid in with it. 

For a pasty of moderate size, two pounds, or two and a half of meat, 
and from three to four of potatoes will be sufficient: a quarter-pint of 
milk or cream, two small teaspoonsful of salt, and from one to two 
ounces of butter must be mixed up with these last* 

MODERN CHICKEN PIE. 

Skin, and cut down into joints a couple of fowls, take out all the 
bones, and season the flesh highly with salt, cayenne, pounded mace, 
and nutmeg; line a dish with a thin paste, and spread over it a layer 
of the finest sausage-meat, which has previously been moistened with a 
spoonful or two of cold water ; over this place closely together some of 
the boned chicken joints, then more sausage-meat, and continue thus 

* A larger proportion of cream and butter well dried into the potatoes over a gentle 
fire, after they are mashed, will render the crust of the pasty richer and finer. 



356 MODERN COOKERY. CHAP. XVI. 

with alternate layers of each, until the dish is full ; roll out, and fasten 
securely at the edges, a cover half an inch thick, trim off the superflu- 
ous paste, make an incision in the top, lay some paste leaves round it, 
glaze the whole with yolk of egg, and bake the pie from an hour and a 
half to two hours in a well-heated oven. Lay a sheet or two of writing- 
paper over the crust, should it brown too quickly. Minced herbs can 
be mixed with the sausage-meat at pleasure, and a small quantity of 
eschalot also, where the flavour is much liked : it should be well moist- 
ened with water, or the whole will be unpalatably dry. The pie may 
be served hot or cold, but we would rather recommend the latter. 

A couple of very young tender rabbits will answer exceedingly well 
for it instead of fowls, and a border, or half paste in the dish will gene- 
rally be preferred to an entire lining of the crust, which is now but 
rarely served, unless for pastry, which is to be taken out of the dish in 
which it is baked before it is sent to table. 

A COMMON CHICKEN PIE. 

Prepare the fowls as for boiling, cut them down into joints, and sea- 
son them with salt, white pepper, and nutmeg, or pounded mace; 
arrange them neatly in a dish bordered with paste, lay amongst them 
three or four fresh eggs, boiled hard, and cut in halves, pour in some 
cold water, put on a thick cover, pare the edge, and ornament it, make 
a hole in the centre, lay a roll of paste, or a few leaves round it, and 
bake the pie in a moderate oven from an hour to an hour and a half. 
The back and neck bones may be boiled down with a bit or two of lean 
ham, to make a little additional gravy, which can be poured into the 
pie after it is baked. 

PIGEON PIE. 

Border a large dish with fine puff-paste, and cover the bottom with a 
veal cutlet, or tender rump steak, free from fat and bone, and seasoned 
with salt, cayenne, and nutmeg, or pounded mace ; prepare with great 
nicety as many freshly-killed young pigeons as the dish will contain in 
one layer; put into each a slice or ball of butter, seasoned with a little 
cayenne and mace ; lay them into the dish with the breasts downwards, 
and between and over them put the yolks of half a dozen or more of 
hard-boiled eggs; stick plenty of butter on them, season the whole well 
with salt and spice, pour in some cold water or veal broth for the gravy, 
roll out the cover three quarters of an inch thick, secure it well round 
the edge, ornament it highly, and bake it for an hour or more in a well- 
heated oven. It is a great improvement to fill the birds with small 
mushroom-buttons, prepared as for partridges (see Chapter XIII.) : their 
livers also may be put into them. 

BEEF-STEAK PIE. 

From a couple to three pounds of rump-steak will be sufficient for a 
good family pie. It should be well kept though perfectly sw T eet, for in 
no form can tainted meat be more offensive than when it is enclosed in 
paste. Trim off the coarse skin, and part of the fat, should there be 
much of it (many eaters dislike it altogether in pies, and when this is 
the case every morsel should be carefully cut away). If the beef should 
not appear very tender, it may be gently beaten with a paste-roller until 
the fibre is broken, then divided into slices half as large as the hand- 



CHAP. XVI.] TASTRY. 257 

and laid into a dish bordered with paste. It should be seasoned with 
salt and pepper, or cayenne, and sufficient water poured in to make the 
gravy and keep the meat moist. Lay on the cover, and be careful 
always to brush the edge in every part with egg or cold water, then 
join it securely to the paste which is round the rim, trim both off close 
to the dish, pass the point of the knife through the middle of the cover, 
lay some slight roll or ornament of paste round it, and decorate the 
border of the pie in any of the usual modes, which are too common to 
require description. Send the pie to a well-heated, but not fierce oven 
for about an hour and twenty minutes. To make a richer beef-steak 
pie put bearded oysters in alternate layers with the meat, add their 
strained liquor to a little good gravy, in which the beards may be sim- 
mered for a few minutes, to give it further flavour, and make a light 
puff paste for the crust. Some eaters like it seasoned with a small por- 
tion of minced onion or eschalot when the oysters are omitted. Mush- 
rooms improve all meat-pies. 
1 to 1^ hour. 

MUTTON PIE. 

A pound and a quarter of flour will make sufficient paste for a mode- 
rate-sized pie, and two pounds of mutton freed from the greater portion 
of the fat will fill it. Butter a dish, and line it with about half the 
paste rolled thin ; lay in the mutton evenly, and sprinkle over three 
quarters of an ounce of salt, and from half to a whole teaspoonful of 
pepper according to the taste; pour in cold water to within an inch of 
the brim. Roll the cover, whicli should be quite half an inch thick, to 
the size of the dish ; wet the edges of the paste with cold water or 
white of egg, be careful to close them securely, cut them off close to 
the rim of the dish, stick the point of the knife through the centre, and 
bake the pie an hour and a quarter in a well-heated oven. 

Flour, 1^ lb. ; dripping, ^ lb. (or suet, ^ lb. and butter, 2 ozs). Mut- 
ton, 2 lbs. ; salt, | oz. ; pepper, half to whole teaspoonful ; water, £ pint 
li hour. 

RAISED PIES. 

These may be made of any size, 
and with any kind of meat, poultry, 
or game, but the whole must be 
entirely free from bone. When 
the crust is not to be eaten, it is 
made simply with a few ounces of 
lard or butter dissolved in boiling 
water, with which the flour is to be 
mixed (with a spoon at first, as the 
heat would be too great for the 
hands, but afterwards with the fin- 
gers) to a smooth and firm paste. The French, who excel greatly in 
this form of pie,* use for it a good crust which they call a pate brisee 
(see page 252), and this is eaten usually with the meat which it con- 

* We remember having partaken of one which was brought from Bordeaux, and 
which contained a small boned ham of delicious flavour, surmounted by boned part- 
ridges;, above which were placed fine larks likewise boned; all the interstices were 
filled with superexcellent forcemeat ; and the whole, being a solid mass of nourishing 
viands, would have formed an admirable traveller's larder in itself. 

16 




Raised Pie. 



258 



MODERN COOKERY. 



[CHAP. XVI. 



tains. In either case the paste must be sufficiently stiff to retain its 
form perfectly after it is raised, as it will have no support to prevent its 
falling 1 . The celebrated Monsieur Ude gives the following- directions 
for moulding it to a proper shape without difficulty; and as inexpe- 
rienced cooks generally find a little at first in giving a good appearance 
to these pies, we copy his instructions for them : " Take a lump of 
paste proportionate to the size of the pie you are to make, mould it in 
the shape of a sugar loaf, put it upright on the table, then with the 
palms of your hands flatten the sides of it; when you have equalized it 
all round and it is quite smooth, squeeze the middle of the point down 
to half the height of the paste," then hollow the inside by pressing it 
with the fingers, and in doing this be careful to keep it in every part of 
equal thickness. Fill it,* roll out the cover, egg the edges, press them 
securely together, make a hole in the centre, lay a roll of paste round 
it, and encircle this with a wreath of leaves, or ornament the pie in any 
other way, according to the taste; glaze it with well-beaten yolk of 
agg, and bake it from two to three hours in a well-heated oven if it be 
small, and from four to five hours if it be large, though the time must 
be regulated in some measure by the nature of the contents, as well as 
by the size of the dish. 

Obs. — We know not if we have succeeded in making the reader 
comprehend that this sort of pie (with the exception of the cover, for 
which a portion must at first be taken off) is made from one solid lump 
of paste, which, after having been shaped into a cone, as Monsieur Ude 
directs, or into a high round, or oval form, is hollowed by pressing down 
the centre with the knuckles, and continuing to knead the inside equally 
round with the one hand, while the other is pressed close to the outside. 
It is desirable that the mode of doing this should be once seen by the 
learner, if possible, as mere verbal instructions are scarcely sufficient 
to enable the quite-inexperienced cook to comprehend at once the exact 
form and appearance which should be given to the paste. 

A VOL-AU-VENT. (eIVTREE.) 

This dish can be successfully made only with the finest and lightest 
puff-paste (see feuilletage, page 250), as its height, which ought to be 

from four to five inches, de- 
pends entirely on its rising in 
the oven. Roll it to something 
more than an inch in thick- 
ness, and cut it to the shape 
and size of the inside of the 
dish in which it is to be served, 
or stamp it out with a fluted 
tin of proper dimensions; then 
mark the cover evenly about an inch from the edge all round, and orna- 
ment it and the border also, with a knife, as fancy may direct; brush 
yolk of egg quickly over them, and put the vol-au-vent immediately into 
a brisk oven, that it may rise well, and be finely coloured, but do not 
allow it to be scorched. In from twenty to thirty minutes, should it 

* For the mode of doing this, see observations, pape 256, and note, page 257. A 
ham must be boiled or stewed tender, and freed from the skin and blackened parts be 
tore it is laid in ; poultry and game, boned ; and all meat highly seasoned. 




CHAP. XVI.] PASTRY. 259 

appear baked through, as well as sufficiently browned, draw it out, and 
with the point of a knife detach the cover carefully where it has been 
marked, and scoop out all the soft unbaked crumb from the inside of the 
vol-au-vent ; then turn it gently on to a sheet of clean paper, to drain 
the butter from it. At the instant of serving, fill it with a rich fricas- 
see of lobster, or of sweetbreads, or with tnrbot a la cremc, or with the 
white part of cold roast veal cut in thin collops not larger than a shil- 
ling 1 , and heated in good white sauce with oysters (see minced veal and 
oysters, page 174), or with any other of the preparations which we shall 
indicate in their proper places, and send it immediately to table. The 
vol-au-vent, as the reader will perceive, is but the ease, or crust, in 
which various kinds of delicate ragouts are served in an elegant form. 
As these are most frequently composed offish, or of meats which have 
been already dressed, it is an economical as well as an excellent mode 
of employing- such remains. The sauces in which they are heated must 
be quite thick, tor they would otherwise soften, or even run through 
the crust. This, we ought to observe, should be examined before it is 
filled, and should any part appear too thin, a portion of the crumb which 
has been taken out should be fastened to it with some beaten egg, and 
the whole of the inside brushed lightly with more egg, in order to make 
the loose parts of the vol-au-vent stick well together. This method is 
recommended by an admirable and highly experienced cook, but it need 
only be resorted to when the crust is not solid enough to hold the con- 
tents securely. 

For moderate-sized vol-au-vent, flour, h lb. ; butter, ^ lb. ; salt, small 
saltspoonful ; yolk, 1 egg; little water. Larger vol-au-vent, % lb. flour; 
other ingredients in proportion: baked 20 to 30 minutes. 

Obs. — When the vol-au-vent is cut out with the fluted cutter, a second, 
some sizes smaller, after being just dipped into hot water, should be 
pressed nearly half through the paste, to mark the cover. The border 
ought to be from three quarters of an inch to an inch and a half wide. 

A VAL-AU-VENT OF FRUIT. (ENTREMETS.) 

After the crust has been made and baked as above, fill it at the mo- 
ment of serving with peaches, apricots, mogul, or any other richly 
flavoured plums, which have been stewed tender in syrup; lift them 
from this, and keep them hot while it is boiled rapidly almost to jelly ; 
then arrange the fruit in the vol-au-vent, and pour the syrup over it. 
For the manner of preparing it, see compotes of fruit, Chapter XX. ; but 
increase the proportion of sugar nearly half, that the juice may be 
reduced quickly to the proper consistency for the vol-au-vent. Skin 
and divide the apricots, and quarter the peaches, unless they should be 
very small. 

VOL-AU-VENT A LA CREME. (ENTREMETS.) 

After having raised the cover and emptied the vol-au-vent, lay it on a 
sheet of paper, and let it become cold. Fill it just before it is sent to 
table with fruit, either boiled down to a rich marmalade, or stewed as 
for the preceding vol-au-vent, and heap well-flavoured, but not too 
highly sweetened, whipped cream over it. The edge of the crust may 
be glazed by sifting sugar over it, when it is drawn from the oven, and 
holding a salamander or red-hot shovel above it; or it may be left 
unglazed. and ornamented with bright-coloured fruit jelly. 



260 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XVI 

OYSTER-PATTIES.* (ENTREE.) 

Line some small patty-pans with fine puff-paste, rolled thin and to 
preserve their form when baked, put a bit of bread into each ; lay on 
the covers, pinch and trim the edges, and send the patties to a brisk 
oven. Plump and beard from two to three dozens of small oysters; mix 
very smoothly a teaspoonful of flour with an ounce of butter, put them 
into a dean saucepan, shake them round over a gentle fire, and let them 
simmer for two or three minutes ; throw in a little salt, pounded mace, 
and cayenne, then add, by slow degrees, two or three spoonsful of rich 
cream, give these a boil, and pour in the strained liquor of the oysters ; 
next, lay in the fish, and keep at the point of boiling for a couple of 
minutes. Raise the covers from the patties, take out the bread, fill 
them with the oysters and their sauce, and replace the covers. We 
have found it an improvement to stew the beards of the fish with a 
strip or two of lemon-peel, in a little good veal stock for a quarter of an 
hour, then to strain and add it to the sauce. The oysters, unless very 
small, should be once or twice divided. 

GOOD CHICKEN PATTIES. (ENTREE.) 

Raise the white flesh entirely from a young undressed fowl, divide it 
once or twice, and lay it into a small clean saucepan, in which about an 
ounce of butter has been dissolved, and just begins to simmer ; strew in 
a slight seasoning of salt, mace, and cayenne, and stew the chicken 
very softly indeed for about ten minutes, taking every precaution against 
its browning: turn it into a dish with the butter, and its own gravy, and 
let it become cold. Mince it with a sharp knife; heat it, without 
allowing it to boil, in a little good white sauce (which may be made of 
some of the bones of the fowl), and fill ready-baked patty-crusts, or 
small vol-au-vents with it, just before they are sent to table ; or stew 
the flesh only just sufficiently to render it firm, mix it after it is minced 
and seasoned with a spoonful or two of strong gravy, fill the patties, and 
bake them from fifteen to eighteen minutes. It is a great improvement 
to stew and mince a few mushrooms with the chicken. 

The breasts of cold turkeys, fowls, partridges, or pheasants, or the 
white part of cold veal, minced, heated in a bechamel sauce, will serve 
at once for patties : they may also be made of cold game, heated in an 
Espagnole, or in a good brown gravy. 

Obs. — A spoonful or two of jellied stock or gravy, or of good white 
sauce, converts these into admirable patties: the same ingredients make 
also very superior rolls or cannelons. For patties a la Cardinale, small 
mushroom-buttons stewed as for partridges, Chapter XIII., before they 
are minced, must be substituted for truffles; and the butter in which 
they are simmered should be added with them to the eggs. 

EXCELLENT MEAT ROLLS. 

Pound, as for potting (see page 227), and with the same proportion 
of butter and of seasonings, some half-roasted veal, chicken, or turkey. 
Make some forcemeat by the receipt No. 1, Chapter VI., and form it 

These patties should be made small, with a thin crust, and be well-filled with the 
oysters and their sauce. The substitution of fried crumbs for the covers will vary 
them vnry agreeably. For lobster-patties, prepare the fish as for a volau-vent, but cut 
it smaller. 



CHAP. XVI.] FINE PASTRY. 261 

into small rolls, not larger than a finger; wrap twice or thrice as much 
of the pounded meat equally round each of these, first moistenino- it with 
a teaspoonful of water ; fold them in good puff-paste, and bake them 
from fifteen to twenty minutes, or until the crust is perfectly done A 
small quantity of the lean of a boiled ham may be finely minced' and 
pounded with the veal, and very small mushrooms, prepared as for a 
partridge (page 217), may be substituted for the forcemeat. 

PATTIES, TARTLETS, OR SMALL VOLS-AU-VENTS. 

These are quickly and easily made with two round paste-cutters of 
which one should be little more than half the size of the other: to iive 
the pastry a better appearance, they should be fluted. Roll out some 
of the lightest puff-paste to a half inch of thickness, and with the Wer 
of the tins cut the number of patties required ; then dip the edo- e of the 
small shape into hot water, and press it about half through them Bake 
them in a moderately quick oven from ten to twelve minutes, and when 
they are done, with the point of a sharp knife, take out the small rounds 
of crust from the tops, and scoop all the crumb from the insides of the 
patties which may then be filled with oysters, lobster, chicken, or any 
other of the ordinary varieties of patty meat, prepared with white sauce. 

fan be C re3laced ^ ^ ""**** ° f the ° 0VerS ' ° r these last 

For sweet dishes glaze the pastry, and fill it with rich whipped 
cream, preserve or boiled custard ; if with the last of these, put it back 
into a very gentle oven until the custards are set. 

ANOTHER RECEIPT FOR TARTLETS. 

For a dozen tartlets, cut twenty-four rounds of paste of the usual size 
yid form twelve of them into rings by pressing the small cutter cm iS 
through them; moisten these with cold water, or white of eJg, and lay 

the tartlets Bake them from ten to twelve minutes, fill them with 
preserve while they are still warm, and place over it a mall ornament 
of paste cut from the remnants, and baked gently of a lio-ht cofour 

thTnvp C f GtS C ° ld ' ° r . if WantGd h0t for table P ut them & back into 
the oven for one minute after they are filled. 

A SEFTON, OR VEAL CUSTARD. 

Pour boiling, a pint of rich, clear, pale veal gravy on six fresh eo-o-g 
which have been well beaten and strained: fprinkle in directive 
grated rind of a fine lemon, a little cayenne, some salt if needed and a 
quarter-teaspoonful of mace Put a paste border round a dish, pour in* 
first two ounces of clarified butter, and then the other ingredients; bake 
the Sefton in a very slow oven from twenty-five to thirty minutes, or 

™ v VT . fi M m fl the mK dle ' and send jt to table with a «ttle good 
C7hp 2 7 g A ly fla y oured A ame stock, in which a few mushrooms 
have been stewed, may be used for this dish with great advantage in 
heu of veal gravy; and a sauce made of the smallest mushroom buttons, 
may be served with it m either case. The mixture can be baked in a 
whole paste, if preferred so or in well-buttered cups; then turned out 
and covered with the sauce before it is sent to table 

Rich veal or game stock, 1 pint; fresh eggs, 6; rind, 1 lemon; littte 



262 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XVI. 

salt and cayenne ; pounded mace, $ teaspoonful ; butter, 2 ozs. : baked, 
25 to 30 minutes, slow oven. 

APPLE CAKE. OR GERMAN TART. 

Work tog-ether with the fingers ten ounces of butter and a pound of 
flour, until they resemble fine crumbs of bread ; throw in a small pinch 
of salt, and make them into a firm smooth paste with the yolks of twc 
eggs and a spoonful or two of water. Butter thickly a plain tin cake, 
or pie mould (those which open at the sides are best adapted for the 
purpose); roll out the paste thin, place the mould upon it, trim a bit to 
its exact size, cover the bottom of the mould with this, then cut a band 
the height of the sides, and press it smoothly round them, joining the 
edge, which must be moistened with egg or water, to the bottom crust; 
and fasten upon them, to prevent their separation, a narrow and thin 
band of paste, also moistened. Next, fill the mould nearly from the 
brim with the following marmalade, which must be quite cold when it 
is put in. Boil together, over a gentle fire at first, but more quickly 
afterwards, three pounds of good apples with fourteen ounces of pounded 
sugar, or of the finest Lisbon, the strained juice of a large lemon, three 
ounces of the best butter, and a teaspoonful of pounded cinnamon, or 
the lightly grated rind of a couple of lemons: when the whole is per- 
fectly smooth and dry, turn it into a pan to cool, and let it be quite cold 
before it is put into the paste. In early autumn, a larger proportion of 
sugar may be required, but this can be regulated by the taste. When 
the mould is filled, roll out the cover, lay it carefully over the marma- 
lade that it may not touch it ; and when the cake is securely closed, 
trim off the superfluous paste, add a little pounded sugar to the parings, 
spread them out very thin, and cut them into leaves to ornament the 
top of the cake, round which they may be placed as a sort of wreath.* 
Bake it for an hour in a moderately brisk oven ; take it from the mould, 
and should the sides not be sufficiently coloured, put it back for a few 
minutes into the oven upon a baking tin. Lay a paper over the top, 
when it is of a fine light brown, to prevent its being too deeply coloured. 
This cake should be served hot. 

Paste: flour, 1 lb.; butter, 10 ozs.; yolks of eggs, 2; little w T ater. 
Marmalade : apples, 3 lbs. ; sugar, 14 ozs. (more if needed) ; juice of 
lemon, 1 ; rinds of lemons, 2: butter, 3 ozs. : baked, 1 hour. 

TOURTE MERINGUEE, OR TART WITH ROYAL ICING, f 

Lay a band of fine paste round the rim of a tart-dish, fill it with any 
kind of fruit mixed with a moderate proportion of sugar, roll out the 
cover very evenly, moisten the edges of the paste, press them together 
carefully, and trim them off close to the dish ; spread equally over the 
top, to within rather more than an inch of the edge all round, the whites 
of three fresh eggs beaten to a quite solid froth, and mixed quickly at 
the moment of using them, with three tablespoonsful of dry sifted sugar. 

* Or. instead of these, fasten on it with a liitle white of egg, after it is taken from 
the oven, some ready-baked leaves of almond-paste (see paye 263), ei t her plain or co- 
loured. 

t The limits to which we are obliged to confine this volume, compel ns to omit many 
receipts which we would gladly insert: we have, therefore, rejected those which may 
he found in almost every English cookery hook, for such as are. we apprehend, lr*s 
known to the rendnr : this will account for the s.nall number of receipts for pies and 
fruit tarts to be found in the present chapter. 



CHAP. XVI.] FINE PASTRY. 263 

Put the tart into a moderately brisk oven, and when the crust has risen 
well, and the icing- is set, either lay a sheet of writing-paper lightly- 
over it, or draw it to a part of the oven where it will not take too much 
colour. This is now a fashionable mode of icing tarts, and greatly im- 
proves their appearance. 
Bake half an hour. 

A GOOD APPLE TART. 

A pound and a quarter of apples, weighed after they are pared and 
cored, will be sufficient for a small tart, and four ounces more for one 
of moderate size. Lay a border of English puff-paste, or of cream-crust 
round the dish, just dip the apples into water, arrange them very curn- 
pactly in it, higher in the centre than at the sides, and strew amongst 
them from three to four ounces of pounded sugar, or more should they 
be very acid : the grated rind, and the strained juice of half a lemon 
will much improve their flavour. Lay on the cover rolled thin, and ice 
it or not at pleasure. Send the tart to a moderately brisk oven for 
about half an hour. This may be converted into the old-fashioned 
creamed apple tart, by cutting out the cover while it is still quite hot, 
leaving only about an inch-wide border of paste round the edge, and 
pouring over the apples when they have become cold, from half to three 
quarters of a pint of rich boiled custard. The cover divided into trian- 
gular sippets, was formerly stuck round the inside of the tart, but orna- 
mental leaves of pale puff-paste have a better effect. Well-drained 
whipped cream may be substituted for the custard, and piled high, and 
lightly over the fruit. 

BARBERRY TART. 

Barberries, with half their weight of fine brown sugar, when they are 
thoroughly ripe, and with two ounces more when they are not quite so, 
make an admirable tart. For one of moderate size, put into a dish bor- 
dered with paste, three quarters of a pound of barberries stripped from 
their stalks, and six ounces of sugar in alternate layers ; pour over them 
three tablespoonsful of water, put on the cover, and bake the tart for 
naif an hour. Another way of making it is, to line a shallow tin pan 
with very thin crust, to mix the fruit and sugar well together with a 
spoon, before they are laid in, and to put bars of paste across instead of 
a cover ; or it may be baked without either* 

ALMOND PASTE. 

For a single dish of pastry, blanch seven ounces of fine sweet almonds 
and one of bitter ;| throw them into cold water as they are done, and 
let them remain in it for an hour or two ; then wipe, and pound them 
to the finest paste, moistening them occasionally with a few drops of 
cold water, to prevent their oiling ; next, add to, and mix thoroughly 
with them, seven ounces of highly-refined, dried, and sifted sugar ;"put 
them into a small preserving-pan, or enamelled stewpan, and stir them 
over a clear and very gentle fire until they are so dry as not to adhere 

* The French make fneir fruit-tarts generally thus, in la rtre shallow pans. Plums, 
split and stoned (or if small kinds, left entire), cherries and currants freed from the 
stalks, and various other fruits, all rolled in plenty of susrar, are baked in the uncov- 
ered crust; or this is baked by itself, and then filled afterwards with fruit previously 
stewed tender. 

\ When these are objected to, use half a pound of the sweet almonds. 



204 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XVI. 

to the finger when touched ; turn the paste immediately into an earthen 
pan or jar, and when cold it will be ready for use. 

Sweet almonds, 7 ozs. ; bitter almonds, 1 oz. ; cold water, 1 table- 
spoonful ; sugar, 7 ozs. 

Obs. — The pan in which the paste is dried should by no means be 
placed upon the fire, but high above it on a bar or trevet : should it be 
allowed by accident to harden too much, it must be sprinkled plentifully 
with water, broken up quite small, and worked, as it warms, with a 
strong wooden spoon to a smooth paste again. We have found this 
method perfectly successful ; but, if time will permit, it should be mois- 
tened some hours before it is again set over the fire. 

TARTLETS OF ALMOND PASTE. 

Butter slightly the smallest-sized patty-pans, and line them with the 
almond-paste rolled as thin as possible; cut it with a sharp knife close 
to their edges, and bake or ratlier dry the tartlets slowly at the mouth 
of a very cool oven. If at all coloured, they should be only of the 
palest brown ; but they will become perfectly crisp without losing their 
whiteness if left lor some hours in a very gently-heated stove or oven. 
They should be taken from the pans when two thirds done, and laid, 
reversed, upon a sheet of paper placed on a dish or board, before they 
are put back into the oven. At the instant of serving, fill them with 
bright-coloured whipped cream, or with peach or apricot jam ; if the 
preserve be used, lay over it a small star or other ornament cut from 
the same paste, and dried with the tartlets. Sifted sugar, instead of 
flour, must be dredged upon the board and roller in using almond paste. 
Leaves and flowers formed of it, and dried gradually until perfectly 
crisp, will keep for a long time in a tin box or canister, and they form 
elegant decorations for pastry. When a fluted cutter the size of the 
patty-pans is at hand, it will be an improvement to cut out the paste 
with it, and then to press it lightly into them, as it is rather apt to 
break when pared off with a knife. To colour it, prepared cochineal, 
or spinach-green, must be added to it in the mortar. 

mincemeat; {Author 's Receipt.) 
To one pound of an unsalted ox-tongue, boiled tender and cut free 
from the rind, add two pounds of fine stoned raisins, two of beef kidney- 
suet, two pounds and a half of currants well cleaned and dried, two of 
good apples, two and a half of fine Lisbon sugar, from half to a whole 
pound of candied peel according to the taste, the grated rinds of two 
large lemons, and two more boiled quite tender, and chopped up entire- 
ly, with the exception of the pips, two small nutmegs, half an ounce 
of salt, a large teaspoonful of pounded mace, rather more of ginger in 
powder, half a pint of brandy, and as much good sherry or Madeira. 
Mince these ingredients separately, and mix the others all well before 
the brandy and'the wine are added ; press the whole into a jar or jars, 
and keep it closely covered. It should be stered for a few days before 
it is used, and will remain good for many weeks. Some persons like a 
slight flavouring of cloves in addition to the other spices; others add 
the juice of two or three lemons, and a larger quantity of brandy. The 
inside of a tender and well-roasted sirloin of beef will answer quite a3 
well as the tong-ue. 



CHAP XVI.] FINE PASTRY. 205 

Of a fresh-boiled ox-tongue, or inside of roasted sirloin, 1 lb. ; stoned 
raisins and minced apples, each 2 lbs. ; currants and fine Lisbon sugar, 
each 2h lbs. ; candied orange, lemon or citron rind, 8 to 16 ozs. ; boiled 
lemons, 2 large ; rinds of two others, grated ; salt, | oz. ; nutmegs, 2 
small ; pounded mace, 1 large teaspoonful, and rather more of ginger ; 
good sherry or Madeira, \ pint; brandy, h pint. 

Obs. — The lemons will be sufficiently boiled in from one hour to one 
and a quarter. 

SUPERLATIVE MINCEMEAT. 

Take four large lemons, with their weight of golden pippins pared 
and cored, of jar-raisins, currants, candied citron and orange-rind, and 
the finest suet, and a fourth part more of pounded sugar. Boil the 
lemons tender, chop them small, but be careful first to extract all the 
pips; add them to the other ingredients, after all have been prepared 
with great nicety, and mix the whole well with from three to four 
glasses of good brandy. Apportion salt and spice by the preceding re- 
ceipt. We think that the weight of one lemon, in meat, improves this 
mixture ; or, in lieu of it, a small quantity of crushed macaroons added 
just before it is baked. 

MINCE PIES. (ENTREMETS.) 

Butter some tin pattypans well, and line them evenly with fine pufT- 
paste rolled thin ; fill them with mincemeat, moisten the edges of the 
covers, which should be nearly a quarter of an inch ihick, close the pies 
carefully, trim off the superfluous paste, make a small aperture in the 
centre of the crust with a fork or the point of a knife, ice the pies with 
cold water and sifted sugar (see page 250), or not, at pleasure, and bake 
them half an hour in a well-heated but not fierce oven : lay a paper 
over them when they are partially done, should they appear likely to 
take too much colour. 

| hour. 

MINCE PIES ROYAL. (ENTREMETS.) 

Add to half a pound of good mincemeat an ounce and a half of 
pounded sugar, the grated rind and the strained juice of a large lemon, 
one ounce of clarified butter, and the yolks of four eggs; beat these 
well together, and half fill, or rather more, with the mixture, some pat- 
typans lined with fine paste ; put them into a moderate oven, and when 
the insides are just set, ice them thickly with the whites of the eggs 
beaten to snow, and mixed quickly at the moment with four heaped 
tablespoonsful of pounded sugar ; set them immediately into the oven 
again, and bake them of a fine light brown. 

Mincemeat, £ lb.; sugar, 1£ oz. ; rind and juice, 1 large lemon; 
butter, 1 oz. ; yolks, 4 eggs. Icing: whites, 4 eggs; sugar, 4 table- 
spoonsful. 

THE MONITOR'S TART, OR TOURTE A LA JUDD. 

Put into a German enamelled stewpan, or into a delicately clean 
saucepan, three quarters of a pound of well-flavoured apples, weighed 
after they are pared and cored ; add to them from three to four ounces 
of pounded sugar, an ounce and a half of fresh butter, cut small, and 
half a teaspoonful of pounded cinnamon, or the lightly grated rind of a 
small lemon. Let them stand over, or by the side of a gentle fire until 



266 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XVI. 

they begin to soften, and toss them now and then to mingle the whole 
well, but do not stir them with a spoon ; they should all remain un- 
brokeu and rather firm. Turn them into a dish, and let them become 
cold. Divide three quarters of a pound of good light crust into two 
equal portions; roll out one quite thin and round, flour an oven-leaf 
and lay it on, as the tart cannot so well be moved after it is made ; 
place the apples upon it in the form of a dome, but leave a clear space 
of an inch or more round the edge ; moisten this with white of egg, 
and press the remaining half of the paste (which should be rolled out 
to the same size, and laid carefully over the apples) closely upon it: 
they should be well secured, that the syrup from the fruit may not burst 
through. Whisk the white of an egg to a froth, brush it over the 
tart with a small bunch of feathers, sift sugar thickly over, and then 
strew upon it some almonds blanched and roughly chopped ; bake the 
tart in a moderate oven from thirty-five to forty-five minutes. It may 
be filled with peaches, or apricots, half-stewed, like the apples, or with 
cherries merely rolled in fine sugar ; or with the pastry cream of 
page 267. 

Light paste, ^ to £ lb. ; apples, 12 ozs. ; butter, l£ oz. ; sugar, 4 ozs.; 
glazing of egg and sugar; almonds, \ oz. : 35 to 45 minutes. 

PUDDING PIES. (ENTREMETS.) 

This form of pastry (or its name at least) is, we believe, peculiar to 
the county of Kent, where it is made in abundance, and eaten by all 
classes of people during Lent. Boil for fifteen minutes three ounces of 
ground rice* in a pint and a half of new milk, and when taken from 
the fire stir into it three ounces of butter and four of sugar ; add to these 
six well-beaten eggs, a grain or two of salt, and a flavouring of nutmeg 
or lemon-rind at pleasure. When the mixture is nearly cold, line some 
large pattypans or some saucers with thin puff paste, fill them with it 
three parts full, strew the tops thickly with currants which have been 
cleaned and dried, and bake the pudding-pies from fifteen lo twenty 
minutes in a gentle oven. 

Milk, 1^ pint ; ground rice, 3 ozs. : 15 minutes. Butter, 3 ozs. ; sugar, 
-i lb. ; nutmeg or lemon-rind ; eggs, 6 ; currants, 4 to 6 ozs. : 15 to 20 
minutes. 

pudding pies ; (a commoner kind.) 

One quart of new milk, five ounces of ground rice, butter, one ounce 
and a half (or more), four ounces of sugar, half a small nutmeg grated, 
a pinch of salt, four large eggs, and three ounces of currants. 

cocoa-nut cheese-cakes, (entremets.) {Jamaica Receipt.) 
Break carefully the shell of the nut, that the liquid it contains may 
not escape, f Take out the kernel, wash it in cold water, pare thinly 
off the dark skin, and grate the nut on a delicately clean bread-grater; 
put it, with its weight of pounded sugar, and its own milk, if not sour, 
or if it be, a couple of spoonsful or rather more of water, into a silver or 
block-tin saucepan, or a very small copper stewpan perfectly tinned, 
and keep it gently stirred over a quite clear fire until it is tender: it 
will sometimes require an hour's stewing to make it so. When a little 
cooled, add to the nut, and beat well with it, some eggs properly whisked 

* Or rice-flour. f Tnis > s oest secured by boring the shell before it is broken 



CHAP. XVI.] FINE PASTRY/. 267 

and strained, and the grated rind of half a lemon. Line some pattypans 
with line paste, put in the mixture, and bake the cheese-cakes from thir- 
teen to fifteen minutes. 

Grat>d cocoa-nut, 6 ozs. ; sugar, 6 ozs. ; the milk of the nut, or of 
water, 2 large tablespoonsful : £ to 1 hour. Eggs, 5 ; lemon-rind, \ of 
1: 13 ^o 15 minutes. 

Ob*. — We have found the cheese-cakes made with these proportions 
very excellent indeed, but should the mixture be considered too sweet, 
another egg or two can be added, and a little brandy also. 

j kmon cheese-cakes, (entremets.) (Christ-Church-College 
Receipt.) 

Rasp the rind of a large lemon with four ounces of fine sugar, then 
crush, and mix it with the yolks of three eggs, and half the quantity of 
whites, well whisked ; beat these together thoroughly ; add to them 
four tablespoonsful of cream, a quarter of a pound of oiled butter, the 
strained juice of the lemon, — which must be stirred quickly in by de- 
grees, — and a little orange-flower brandy. Line some pattypans with 
thin puff-paste, half fill them with the mixture, and bake them thirty 
minutes in a moderate oven. 

Sugar, 4 ozs. ; rind and juice, 1 large lemon ; butter, 4 ozs. ; cream, 
4 tablespoonsful ; orange-flower brandy, 1 tablespoonful : bake £ hour. 

COMMON LEMON TARTLETS. 

Beat four eggs until they are exceedingly light, add to them gradually 
four ounces of pounded sugar, and whisk these together for five minutes ; 
strew lightly in, if it be at hand, a dessertspooriful of potato-flour, if not, 
of common flour well dried and sifted ; then throw into the mixture, by 
slow degrees, three ounces of good butter, which should be dissolved, 
but only just luke-warm ; beat the whole well, then stir briskly in the 
strained juice and the grated rind of one lemon and a half. Line some 
pattypans with fine puff-paste rolled very thin, fill them two thirds full, 
and bake the tartlets about twenty minutes, in a moderate oven. 

Eggs, 4 ; sugar 4 ozs. ; potato-flour, or common flour, 1 dessertspoon- 
ful; butter, 3 ozs.; juice and rind of \h full-sized lemon: baked 15 to 
20 minutes. 

CREME PATISSIERE, OR PASTRY CREAM. 

To one ounce of fine flour add, very gradually, the beaten yolks of 
three fresh eggs ; stir to them briskly, and in small portions at first, 
three-quarters of a pint of boiling cream, or of cream and new milk 
mixed; then turn the whole into a clean stewpan, and stir it over a 
very gentle fire until it is quite thick, take it off, and stir it well up and 
round ; replace it over the fire, and let it just simmer from six to eight 
minutes; pour it into a basin, and add to it immediately a couple of 
ounces of pounded sugar, one and a half of fresli butter, cut small, or 
clarified, and a spoonful of the store-mixture of page 120, or a little 
sugar which has been rubbed on the rind of a lemon. The cream is 
rich enough for common use without further addition ; but an ounce and 
a half of ratifias, crushed almost to powder with a paste-roller improves 
it much, and they should be mixed with it for the receipt which follows. 

Flour, 1 oz. ; yolks of eggs, 3 ; boiling cream, or milk and cream 
mixed, | pint: just simmered, 6 to 8 minutes. Butter, 1^ oz. ; sugar, 
2 ozs. ; little store-flavouring, or rasped lemon-rind; ratifias, 1^ oz. 



268 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XVI. 

Obs. — This is an excellent preparation, which may be used for tart- 
lets, cannelons, and other forms of pastry, with extremely good effect. 

SMALL VOLS-AU-VENTS, A LA HOWITT. (ENTREMETS.) 

Make some small vols-au-vents by the directions of page 261, either 
in the usual way, or with the rings of paste placed upon the rounds. 
Ice the edges as soon as they are taken from the oven, by sifting fine 
sugar thickly on them, and then holding a salamander or heated shovel 
over them, until it melts and forms a sort of pale barley-sugar glaze. 
Have ready, and quite hot, some creme patissiere, made as above ; fill 
the vols-au-vents with it, and send them to table instantly. 

PASTRY SANDWICHES. 

Divide equally in two, and roll off square and as thin as possible, some 
rich puff-crust;* lay one half on a buttered tin, or copper oven-leaf, and 
spread it lightly with fine currant, strawberry, or raspberry jelly ; lay 
the remaining half closely over, pressing it a little with the rolling-pin 
after the edges are well cemented together ; then mark it into divisions, 
and bake it from fifteen to twenty minutes in a moderate oven. 

FANCHONNETTES. (ENTREMETS.) 

Roll out very thin and square some fine puff-paste, lay it on a tin or 
copper oven-leaf, and cover it equally to within something less than an 
inch of the edge with peach or apricot jam ; roll a second bit of paste to 
the same size, and lay it carefully over the other, having first moistened 
the edges with beaten egg, or water ; press them together securely, that 
the preserve may not escape ; pass a paste-brush or small bunch of 
feathers dipped in water, over the top, sift sugar thickly on it, then with 
the back of a knife, mark the paste into divisions of uniform size, bake 
it in a well-heated but not fierce oven for twenty minutes, or rather 
more, and cut it while it is still hot, where it is marked. The fanchon- 
nettes should be about three inches in length and two in width. In 
order to lay the second crust over the preserve without disturbing it, 
wind it lightly round the paste-roller, and in untwisting it, let it fall 
gently over the other part. 

This is not the form of pasty called by the French fanchonnettes. 

Fine puff-paste, 1 lb. ; apricot or peach-jam, 4 to 6 ozs. : baked 20 to 
25 minutes. 

CURRANT-JELLY TARTLETS, OR CUSTARDS. 

Put four tablespoonsful of the best currant-jelly into a basin, and stir 
to it gradually twelve spoonsful of beaten egg; if the preserve be rich 
and sweet, no sugar will be required. Line some pans with paste rolled 
very thin, fill them with the custard, and bake them for about ten 
minutes.f 

RAMEKINS A L'UDE, OR SEPTON FANCIES. 

Roll out, rather thin, from six to eight ounces of fine cream-crust, or 
feuilletage (see page 250); take nearly or quite half its weight of 
grated Parmesan, or something less of dry white cheese ; sprinkle it 
equally over the paste, fold it together, roll it out very lightly twice, and 

* Almond paste is sometimes substituted for tliis. 

♦Strawberry or raspberry jelly will answer admirably for these. 



CHAP. XVII.] BOILED PUDDINGS. 369 

continue this until the cheese and crust are well mixed. Cut ihe rame- 
kins with a small paste-cutter; wash them with yolk of egg mixed with 
a little milk, and bake them about fifteen minutes. Serve them very 
hot. 

Cream-crust, or feuilletage, 6 ozs. ; Parmesan, 3 ozs. ; or English 
cheese, 2 J ozs. : 15 minutes. 



CHAPTER XVII. 
BOILED PUDDINGS 

GENERAL DIRECTIONS. 



All the ingredients for puddings should be fresh and of good quality. 
It is a false economy to use for them such as have been too long stored, 
as the slightest degree of mustiness or taint in any one of the articles 
of which they are composed will spoil all that are combined with it. 
Eggs should always be broken separately into a cup before they are 
thrown together in the same basin, as a single very bad one will occa- 
sion the loss of many when this precaution is neglected. They should 
also be cleared from the specks with scrupulous attention, either with 
the point of a small three-pronged fork, while they are in the cup, or 
by straining the whole through a fine hair-sieve after they are beaten. 
The perfect sweetness of suet and milk should be especially attended to, 
before they are mixed into a pudding, as nothing can be more offensive 
than the first when it is over-kept, nor worse in its effect than the curd- 
ling of the milk, which is the certain result of its being ever so slightly 
soured. 

Currants should be cleaned, and raisins stoned with exceeding care ; 
almonds and spices very finely pounded, and the rinds of oranges or 
lemons rasped or grated lightly off, that the bitter part of the skin may 
be avoided, when they are used for this, or for any other class of dishes; 
if pared, they should be cut as thin as possible. 

Custard-puddings, to have a good appearance, must be simmered only, 
but without ceasing ; for if boiled in a quick and careless manner, the 
surface, instead of being smooth and velvety, will be full of holes, or 
honey-combed, as it is called, and the whey will flow from it and min- 
gle with the sauce. A thickly-buttered sheet of writing-paper should. 
be laid between the custard-mixture and the cloth, before it is tied 
over, or the lid of the mould is closed upon it : and the mould itself, or 
the basin in which it is boiled, and which should always be quite full, 
must likewise be well buttered ; and after it is lifted from the water the 
pudding should be left in it for quite five minutes before it is dished, to 
prevent its breaking or spreading about. 

Batter is much lighter when boiled in a cloth, and allowed fu 1 ! room 
Xn swell, than when confined in a mould : it should be well beaten the 
instant before it is poured into it, and put into the water immediately 



270 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XVII. 

after it is securely tied. The cloth should be moist and thickly floured, 
and the pudding should be sent to table as expeditiously as possible 
after it is done, as it will quickly become heavy. This applies equally 
to all puddings made with paste, which are rendered uneatable by any 
delay in serving them after they are ready : they should be opened a 
little at the top as soon as they are taken from the boiler or stewpan. 

Plum-puddings, which it is now customary to boil in moulds, are both 
lighter and less dry, when closely tied in stout cloths well buttered and 
floured, especially when they are made in part with bread ; but when 
this is done, care should be taken not to allow them to burn to the bot- 
tom of the pan in which they are cooked ; and it is a good plan to lay a 
plate or dish under them, by way of precaution against this mischance : 
it will not then so much matter whether they be kept floating or not. 
It is thought better to mix these entirely (except the liquid portion of 
them) the day before they are boiled, and it is perhaps an advantage 
when they are of large size to do so, but it is not really necessary for 
small or common ones. 

A very little salt improves all sweet puddings, by taking off the in- 
sipidity, and bringing out the full flavour of the other ingredients, but 
its presence should not be in the slightest degree perceptible. When 
brandy, wine, or lemon-juice is added to them it should be stirred in 
briskly, and by degrees, quite at last, as it would be likely otherwise to 
curdle, the milk or eggs. 

Many persons prefer their puddings steamed ; but when this is not 
done, they should be dropped into plenty of boiling water, and be kept 
well covered with it until they are ready to serve; and the boiling 
should never be allowed to cease for an instant, for they soon become 
heavy if it be interrupted. 

Pudding and dumpling cloths should not only be laid into plenty of 
water as soon as they are taken off, and washed afterwards, as we shall 
direct, but it is essential to their perfect sweetness that they should be 
well and quickly dried (in the open air if possible), then folded and kept 
in a clean drawer. We have known them left wet by a careless ser- 
vant, until when brought forward for use, they were as offensive almost 
as meat that had been too long kept. To prevent their ever imparting 
an unpleasant flavour when used, they should be washed in a ley made 
as follows; but when from any circumstance this cannot be done, and 
soap is used for them, they should be rinsed, and soaked in abundance 
of water, which should be changed several times. 

A LIE, OR LEY, FOR WASHING rUDDING-CLOTHS. 

To a pint of wood-ashes pour three quarts of boiling water, and either 
wash the cloths in the mixture without straining it, or give them two 
or three minutes boil in it first, then let the whole cool together; wash 
the cloths perfectly clean, and rinse them in abundance of water 
changing it several times: this both takes the grease off, and renders 
them very sweet. Two ounces of soda dissolved in a gallon of water 
will answer almost as well, providing the rinsing afterwards be care- 
fully attended to. 

TO CLEAN CURRANTS FOR PUDDINGS OR CAKES. 

Put them into a cullender, strew a handful of flour over them, and 
rub them with the hands to separate the lumps, and to detach the stalks; 



CHAP. XVII.] BOILED PUDDINGS. 271 

work them round in the cullender, and shake it well, when the small 
stalks and stones will fall through it. Next pour plenty of cold water 
over the currants, drain, and spread them on a soft cloth, press it over 
them to absorb the moisture, and then lay them on a very clean oven- 
tin, or a large dish, and dry them very gradually (or they will become 
hard), either in a cool oven, or before the fire, taking care in the latter 
case that they are not placed sufficiently near it for the ashes to fall 
amongst them. When they are perfectly dry, clear them entirely from 
the remaining stalks, and from every stone that may be amongst them. 
The best mode of detecting these is to lay the fruit at the far end of a 
large white dish, or sheet of paper, and to pass it lightly, and in very 
small portions, with the fingers, towards oneself, examining it closely as 
this is done. 

TO MIX BATTER FOR PUDDINGS. 

Put the flour and salt into a bowl, and stir them together: whisk the 
eggs thoroughly, strain them through a fine hair-sieve, and add them 
very gradually to the flour ; for if too much liquid be poured to it at 
once it will be full of lumps, and it is easy, with care, to keep the bat- 
ter perfectly smooth. Beat it well and lightly, with the back of 3 
strong wooden spoon, and after the eggs are added, thin it with milk to 
a proper consistency. The whites of the eggs beaten separately to a 
solid froth, and stirred gently into the mixture the instant before it is 
tied up for boiling, or before it is put into the oven to be baked, will 
render it remarkably light. When fruit is added to the batter, it must 
be made thicker than when it is served plain, or it will sink to the bot- 
tom of the pudding. Batter should never stick to the knife when it is 
sent to table ; it will do this both when a sufficient number of eggs are 
not mixed with it, and when it is not enough cooked. About four eggs 
to the half-pound of flour will make it firm enough to cut smoothly. 

SUET-CRUST, FOR MEAT OR FRUIT PUDDINGS. 

Clear off the skin from some fresh beef kidney-suet, and with a sharp 
knife slice it thin, free it entirely from fibre, and mince it very fine: 
six ounces thus prepared will be found quite sufficient for a pound ot 
flour. Mix them well together, add half a teaspoonful of salt for meat 
puddings, and a third as much for fruit ones, and sufficient cold water 
to make the whole into a very firm paste ; work it smooth, and roll it 
out of equal thickness when it is used. The weight of suet should be 
taken after it is minced. This crust is so much lighter, and more whole- 
some than that which is made with butter, that we cannot refrain from 
recommending it in preference to our readers. Some cooks merely slice 
the suet in thin shavings, mix it with the flour, and beat the crust with 
a paste roller, until the flour and suet are perfectly incorporated. 

Flour, 2 lbs. ; suet, 12 ozs. ; salt, 1 teaspoonful ; water, 1 pint. 

BUTTER CRUST FOR PUDDINGS. 

When suet is disliked for crust, butter must supply its place, but there 
must be no intermixture of lard in paste which is to be boiled. Eight 
ounces to the pound of flour will render it sufficiently rich for most eat- 
ers, and less will generally be preferred ; rich crust of this kind being 
more indigestible by far than that which is baked. The butter may be 
lightly broken into the flour before the water is added, or it may be laid 



272 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XVII. 

on, and rolled into the paste as for puff-crust. A small portion of salt 
must be added to it always, and for a meat pudding the same proportion 
as directed in the preceding- receipt. For kitchen, or for quite common 
family puddings, butter and clarified dripping- are used sometimes in 
equal proportions. From three to four ounces of each will be sufficient 
for the pound and quarter of flour. 

Flour, 1 lb. ; butter, 8 ozs. ; salt, for fruit puddings, ^ saltspoonful ; 
for meat puddings, \ teaspoonful. 

SMALL BEEF-STEAK PUDDING. 

Make into a very firm, smooth paste, one pound of flour, six ounces 
of beef-suet, finely minced, half a teaspoonful of salt, and half a pint of 
cold water. Line with this a basin which holds a pint and a half. Sea- 
son a pound of tender steak, free from bone and skin, with half an ounce 
of salt and half a teaspoonful of pepper well mixed together; lay it in 
the crust, pour in a quarter-pint of water, roll out the cover, close the 
pudding carefully, tie a floured cloth over, and boil it three hours and a 
half. We give this receipt as an exact guide for the proportions of 
meat-puddings in general. 

Flour, 1 lb. ; suet, 6 ozs. ; salt, \ teaspoonful ; water, \ pint ; rump- 
steak, 1 lb.; salt, \ oz. ; pepper, \ teaspoonful; water, \ pint: 3^ 
hours. 

RUTH PINCH'S BEEF-STEAK PUDDING. 

To make Ruth Pinch's celebrated pudding (known also as beef-steak 
pudding a la Dickens), substitute six ounces of butter for the suet in 
this receipt, and moisten the paste with the well-beaten yolks of four 
eggs, or with three whole ones, mixed with a little water; butter the 
basin very thickly before the crust is laid in, as the pudding is to be 
turned oat of it for table. In all else, proceed exactly as above. 

SUPERLATIVE BEEF-PUDDING. 

Take a line woodcock (or half a dozen rice-birds) that is ready for the 
spit, and put it into the middle of a large beef-pudding, laying the meat 
under, over, and round it ; finish it as usual, and boil it four hours or 
more : the fine flavour of the bird will pervade the whole contents of 
the pudding. 

MUTTON PUDDING. 

Mutton freed perfectly from fat, and mixed with two or three sliced 
kidneys, makes an excellent pudding. The meat may be sprinkled 
with fine herbs as it is laid into the crust. This will require rather less 
boiling than the preceding puddings, but it is made in precisely the 
same way. 

PARTRIDGE PUDDING. 

Skin a couple of well-kept partridges and cut them down into joints: 
line a deep basin with suet crust, observing the directions given in the 
preceding receipts; lay in the birds, which should be rather highly sea- 
soned with pepper or cayenne, and moderately with salt ; pour in water 
for the gravy, close the pudding with care, and boil it from three hours 
to three and a half. The true flavour of the game is admirably pre- 
served by this mode of cooking. When mushrooms are plentiful, put a 
layer of buttons, or small flaps, cleaned as for pickling, alternately with 



CHAP. XVII.] BOILED PUDDING. 273 

a layer of partridge, in filling the pudding, which will then be most 
excellent eating : the crust may be left untouched, and merely emptied 
of its contents, 'where it is objected to ; or its place may be supplied 
with a richer one made of butter. A seasoning of pounded mace or 
nutmeg can be used at discretion. Puddings of veal, chickens, and 
young rabbits, may all be made by this receipt, or with the addition of 
oysters, which we have already noticed. 

COMMON BATTER PUDDING. 

Beat four eggs thoroughly, mix with them half a pint of milk, and 
pass them through a sieve, add them by degrees to half a pound of flour, 
and when the batter is perfectly smooth, thin it with another half pint 
of milk. Shake out a wet pudding-cloth, flour it well, pour the batter 
in, leave it room to swell, tie it securely, and put it immediately into 
plenty of fast-boiling water. An hour and ten minutes will boil it. 
Send it to table the instant it is dished, with wine sauce, a hot compote 
of fruit, or raspberry vinegar : this last makes a delicious pudding sauce. 
Unless the liquid be added very gradually to the flour, and the mixture 
be well stirred and beaten as each portion is poured to it, the batter will 
not be smooth : to render it very light, a portion of the whites of the 
eggs, or the whole of them, should be whisked to a froth and stirred 
into it just before it is put into the cloth. 

Flour, \ lb.; eggs, 4; salt, f teaspoonful; milk, 1 pint'. 1 hour and 
10 minutes. 

Obs. — Modern taste is in favour of puddings boiled in moulds, but, as 
we have already stated, they are seldom or ever so light as those which 
are tied in cloths only. Where appearance is the first consideration, 
we would recommend the use of the moulds, of course. 

ANOTHER BATTER PUDDING. 

Mix the yolks of three eggs smoothly with three heaped tablespoons- 
ful of flour, thin the batter with new milk until it is of the consistency 
of cream, w T hisk the whites of eggs apart, stir them into the batter, and 
boil the pudding in a floured cloth or buttered basin for an hour. Before 
it is served, cut the top quickly into large dice, half through the pud- 
ding, pour over it a small jarful of fine currant, raspberry, or strawberry 
jelly, and send it to table without delay. 

Flour, 3 tablespoonsful ; eggs, 3 ; salt, \ teaspoonful ; milk, from \ to 
a whole pint : 1 hour. 

Obs. — For a very large pudding, double the quantity of ingredients 
and the time of boiling wall be required. 

BATTER FRUIT PUDDING. 

Butter thickly a basin which holds a pint and a half, and fill it nearly 
to the brim with good boiling apples pared, cored, and quartered ; pour 
over them a batter made with four tablespoonsful of flour, two large or 
three small eggs, and half a pint of milk. Tie a buttered and floured 
cloth over the basin, which ought to be quite full, and boil the pudding 
for an hour and a quarter. Turn it into a hot dish when done, and 
strew sugar thickly Over it : this, if added to the batter at first, renders 
it heavy. Morella cherries make a very superior pudding of this kind ; 
and green gooseberries, damsons, and various other fruits, answer for it 
extremely well : the time of boiling it must be varied according to their 
quality and its size. 

IT 



274 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XVII. 

For a pint and a half mould or basin filled to the brim with apples or 
other fruit; flour, 4 tablespoon sful; eggs, 2 large or three small ; milk, 
i pint: li hour. 

Obs. — Apples cored, halved, and mixed with a good batter, make an 
excellent baked pudding, as well as red currants, cherries, and plums 
of different sorts. 

ANOTHER SUET PUDDING. 

Make into a somewhat lithe, but smooth paste, half a pound of fine 
stale bread-crumbs, three quarters of a pound of flour, from ten to twelve 
ounces of beef-suet, chopped extremely small, a large half-teaspoonful 
of salt, and rather less of pepper, with two eggs and a little milk. Boil 
it two hours and a quarter. 

A CHEAP SUET PUDDING. 

With a pound of flour mix well an equal weight of good potatoes 
boiled and grated (or prepared by Captain Kater's receipt, page 230), a 
quarter pound of suet, and a ^mall teaspoonful of salt. Make these into 
a stiff batter, with milk, and boil the pudding one hour in a well-floured 
cloth. 

APPLE, CURRANT, CHERRY, OR OTHER FRESH FRUIT PUDDING. 

Make a paste as for a beaf-steak pudding, either with suet or butter; 
lay into a basin a well-floured cloth, which bas been dipped into hot 
water, wrung dry, and shaken out; roll the paste thin, press it evenly 
into the basin upon the cloth, fill it with apples, pared, cored, and quar- 
tered, or with any other fruit ; put on the cover, taking care to moisten 
the edges of the paste, to press them well together, and fold them over ; 
gather up the ends of the cloth, and tie it firmly close to the pudding, 
which should then be dropped into plenty of fast boiling water. When 
it is done, lift it out by twisting a strong fork into the corner of the 
cloth, turn it gently into the dish in which it is to be served, and cut 
immediately a small round or square from the top, or the pudding will 
quickly become heavy; send it to table without the slightest delay, 
accompanied by pounded, and by good Lisbon sugar, as many persons 
prefer the latter, from its imparting a more mellowed flavour to the 
fruit. A small slice of fresh butter, and some finely grated nutmeg, are 
usually considered improvements to an apple pudding ; the juice, and 
the grated rind of a lemon may be added with good effect, when the 
fruit is laid into the crust, especially in spring, when the apples gene- 
rally will have become insipid in their flavour. When puddings are 
preferred boiled in moulds or basins, these must be thickly buttered 
before the paste is laid into them, and the puddings must be turned from 
them gently, that they may not burst. 

Currant, gooseberry, or cherry pudding, 1 to 1^ hour. Greengage, 
damson, mussel, or other plum, 1 to 1^ hour. Apple pudding, from 1 
to 2 hours, according to its size, and the time of year. 

Obs. — If made of mellow fruit, an apple pudding will require only so 
much boiling as may be needed for the crust. 

A COMMON APPLE PUDDING. 

Make a light crust with one pound of flour and six ounces of very 
finely minced beef-suet, roll it thin, and fill it with one pound and a 
quarter of good boiling apples; add the grated rind and strained juice 



CHAP. XVII.] BOILED PUDDINGS. 275 

of a small lemon, tie it in a cloth, and boil it one hour and twenty mi- 
nutes before Christmas, and from twenty to thirty minutes longer after 
Christmas. A small slice of fresh butter, stirred into it when it is 
sweetened, will, to many tastes, be an acceptable addition ; grated nut- 
meg, or a little cinnamon in fine powder, may be substituted for the 
lemon-rind when either is preferred. To convert this into a richer pud- 
ding, use half a pound of butter for the crust, and add to the apples a 
spoonful or two of orange or quince marmalade. 

Crust: flour, 1 lb.; suet, 6 ozs. Fruit, pared and cored, 1^ lb.; 
juice and rind of 1 small lemon (or some nutmeg or cinnamon in 
powder). 

Richer pudding : flour, 1 lb. ; butter, | lb. ; in addition co fruit, 1 or 
2 tablespoonsful of orange or quince marmalade. 

THE PUBLISHER'S PUDDING. 

This pudding can scarcely be made too rich. First blanch, and then 
beat to the smoothest possible paste, six ounces of fresh sweet almonds, 
and a dozen bitter ones; pour very gradually to them, in the mortar, 
three quarters of a pint of boiling cream ; then turn them into a cloth, 
and wring it from them again with strong expression. Heat a full half 
pint of it afresh, and pour it, as soon as it boils, upon four ounces of fine 
bread-crumbs, set a plate over, and leave them to become nearly cold ; 
then mix thoroughly with them four ounces of macaroons, crushed tole- 
rably small ; five of finely-minced beef-suet, five of marrow, cleared 
very carefully from fibre, and from the splinters of bone which are some- 
times found in it, and shred, not very small, two ounces of flour, six of 
pounded sugar, four of dried cherries, four of the best Muscatel raisins, 
weighed after they are stoned, half a pound of candied citron, or of 
citron and orange-rind mixed, a quarter saltspoonful of salt, half a nut- 
meg, the yolks only of seven full-sized eggs, the grated rind of a large 
lemon, and last of all, a glass of the best Cognac brandy, which must be 
stirred briskly in by slow degrees. Pour the mixture into a thickly 
buttered mould or basin, which contains a full quart, fill it to the brim, 
lay a sheet of buttered writing-paper over, then a well-floured cloth, tie 
them securely, and boil the pudding for four hours and a quarter ; let it 
stand for a couple of minutes before it is turned out; dish it carefully, 
and serve it with the German pudding sauce of page 112. 

Jordan almonds, 6 ozs. ; bitter almonds, 12 ; cream, | pint ; bread- 
crumbs, 4 ozs.; cream wrung from almonds, ^ pint; crushed maca- 
roons, 4 ozs. ; flour, 2 ozs. ; beef-suet, 5 ozs. ; marrow, 5 ozs. ; dried 
cherries, 4 ozs. ; stoned Muscatel raisins, 4 ozs. ; pounded sugar, 6 ozs. ; 
candied citron (or citron and orange-rind mixed), ^ lb. ; pinch of salt; 
^ nutmeg; grated rind 1 lemon ; yolks of eggs, 7; best cognac, 1 wine- 
glassful : boiled in mould or basin, 4} hours. 

Obs. — This pudding, which, if well made, is very light as well as 
rich, will be sufficiently good for most tastes without the almonds, 
when they are omitted, the boiling cream must be poured at once tr 
the bread-crumbs. 

small custard puddinc ; (Aldeburgh White Lion Receipt.) 

Dissolve in half a pint of new milk a dessertspoonful of pounded sugar 
and pour it to three well-beaten eggs; strain the mixture into a but 



270 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XVII. 

tered basin, which should be full ; lay a half sheet of buttered writing 
paper, and then a floured cloth over it, and tie them tightly on ; boil 
the pudding gently for twenty-five minutes, and let it stand four or five 
more before it is turned out, that it may not spread in the dish. Serve 
it with wine sauce. 

New milk, § pint; sugar, 1 dessertspoonful; fresh eggs, 3: 25 
minutes. 

COMMON CUSTARD PUDDING. 

Whisk three egsrs well, put thern into a pint basin, and add to them 
sufficient milk to fill it; then strain, flavour, and sweeten it with fine 
sugar; boil the pudding very softly for an exact half hour, let it stand a 
few minutes, dish, and serve it with sugar sifted over, and sweet sauce 
in a tureen, or send stewed gooseberries, currants, or cherries to table 
with it. A small quantity of lemon-brandy, or of ratafia can be added, 
to give it flavour, when it is made, or the sugar with which it is sweet- 
ened may be rasped on a lemon or an orange, then crushed and dis- 
solved in the milk ; from an ounce and a half to two ounces will be 
sufficient for general taste. 

GERMAN PUDDING, AND SAUCE. 

Stew, until very tender and dry, three ounces of whole rice in a pint 
and a quarter of milk ; when a little cooled, mix with it three ounces 
of beef-suet, finely chopped, two ounces and a half of sugar, an ounce 
of candied orange or lemon-rind, six ounces of sultana raisins, and three 
large eggs well beaten and strained. Boil the pudding in a buttered 
basin, or in a well-floured cloth, for two hours and a quarter, and serve 
it with the following sauce: — Dissolve an ounce and a half of sugar 
broken small in two glasses of sherry, or of any other white wine, and 
stir them, when quite hot, to the beaten yolks of three fresh eggs; then 
stir the sauce in a small saucepan held high above the fire until it re- 
sembles custard, but by no means allow it to boil, or it will instantly 
curdle; pour it over the pudding, or, if preferred, send it to table in a 
tureen. We think a full teaspoonful of lemon-juice added to the wine 
an improvement to this sauce, which is excellent; and we can recom- 
mend the pudding also to our readers. 

Milk, 1£ pint; rice, 3 ozs. : 1 hour, or more. Suet, 3 ozs. ; sugar, 
2h ozs. ; candied peel, 1 oz. ; sultana raisins, 6 ozs. ; eggs, 3 large: 2£ 
hours. Sauce: sherry, 2 glasses; sugar, 1^ oz. ; yolks of eggs, 3; lit- 
tle lemon-juice. 

We have already, in a previous part of the volume, directed that the 
German sauce should be milled to a fine froth, and poured upon the 
pudding with which it is served : when this is not done, the quantity 
should be increased. 

miss bremer's pudding. 

Blanch, dry, and beat to the smoothest possible paste, half a pound 
of fresh Jordan almonds and five or six bitter ones, and moisten them 
as they are done with a few drops of water, or a little white of egg, to 
prevent their oiling. Add to them in very small portions at first, or 
they will be lumpy, the yolks of seven fresh eggs, and the whites of 
two well beaten ; then throw in gradually four ounces of pounded and 
sifted sugar, and whisk the mixture thoroughly until it looks very light ; 



CHAP. XVII.] BOILED PUDDINGS. 277 

next, strew in, continuing- the whisking-, four ounces of fine bread- 
crumbs, and the grated rind of a lemon; and last of all, add four ounces 
of just-liquid butter, which must, by no means, be heated more than 
enough to dissolve it, and which must be poured in by slow degrees, 
and beaten thoroughly to the other ingredients, until there is no ap- 
pearance of it left. Butter thickly a pint and a half mould, shake fine 
bread-crumbs thickly and equally over it, half fill it very gently with 
the pudding-mixture, and place lightly upon this a layer of apricot- 
jam ; put the remainder of the pudding carefully upon it, lay a buttered 
paper over the mould, then close it, or should there be no cover, tie a 
cloth securely round it, and boil the pudding a full hour. Serve it with 
German, or common sweet wine sauce. 

Jordan, or sweet almonds, ^ lb. ; bitter ones, 5 or 6 ; yolks of 7 eggs, 
whites of 2; pounded sugar, 4 ozs. ; bread-crumbs, 4 ozs. ; lemon-rind, 
1 ; butter, 4 ozs. ; apricot-marmalade, 1 jarful : full hour. 

VERY GOOD RAISIN PUDDING. 

To three quarters of a pound of flour add four ounces of fine crumbs 
of bread, one pound of beef-suet, a pound and six ounces of raisins, 
weighed after they are stoned, a quarter-teaspoonful of salt, rather more 
of ginger, half a nutmeg, an ounce and a half of candied peel, and 
four large or five small eggs, beaten, strained, and mixed with a cupful 
of milk, or as much more as will make the whole of the consistency of 
a very thick batter. Pour the mixture into a well-floured cloth of close 
texture, which has previously been dipped into hot water, wrung, and 
shaken out. Boil the pudding in plenty of water for four hours and a 
naif. It may be served with very sweet wine, or punch-sauce ; but if 
made as we have directed, will be much lighter than if sugar be mixed 
with the other ingredients before it is boiled ; and we have found it 
generally preferred to a richer plum-pudding. 

. Flour, ^ lb. ; bread crumbs, 4 ozs. ; beef-suet, 1 lb. ; stoned raisins, 1 
lb. 6 ozs. ; candied peel, H oz. ; ^ nutmeg; eggs, 4 large, or 5 small ; 
little salt and ginger : 4 A hours. 

THE ELEGANT ECONOMIST'S PUDDING. 

Butter thickly a plain mould or basin, and line it entirely with slices 
of cold plum or raisin pudding, cut so as to join closely and neatly to- 
gether ; fill it quite with a good custard, lay, first a buttered paper, and 
then a floured cloth over it, tie them securely, and boil the pudding 
gently for an hour ; let it stand for ten minutes after it is taken up 
before it is turned out of the mould. This is a more tasteful mode of 
serving the remains of a plum-pudding than the usual one of broiling 
them in slices, or converting them into fritters. The German sauce', 
well milled or frothed, is generally much relished with sweet boiled- 
puddings, and adds greatly to their good appearance ; but common wine, 
or punch-sauce, may be sent to table with the above quite as appro- 
priately. 

Mould or basin holding 1| pint, lined with thin slices of plum-pud- 
ding ; ^ pint new milk boiled gently 5 minutes with grain of salt ; 5 
bitter almonds, bruised ; sugar in lumps, 2h ozs. ; thin rind of \ lemon, 
strained and mixed directly with 4 large well-beaten eggs; poured into 
mould while just warm ; boiled gently 1 hour. 



278 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XVII. 

PUDDING A LA SCOONES. 

Take of apples finely minced, and of currants, six ounces each ; of 
suet, chopped small, sultana raisins, picked from the stalks, and sugar, 
four ounces each, with three ounces of fine bread-crumbs, the grated 
rind, and the strained juice of a small lemon, three well-beaten eggs, 
and two spoonsful of brandy. Mix these ingredients perfectly, and boil 
the pudding for two hours in a buttered basin ; sift sugar over it when 
it is sent to table, and serve wine or punch sauce apart. 

Minced apples and currants, each, 6 ozs. ; suet, sultana raisins, and 
sugar, each, 4 ozs. ; bread-crumbs, 3 ozs. ; lemon, 1 ; eggs, 3; brandy, 
2 spoonsful : 2 hours. 

COTTAGE CHRISTMAS PUDDING. 

A pound and a quarter of flour, fourteen ounces of suet, a pound and 
a quarter of stoned raisins, four ounces of currants, five of sugar, a quar- 
ter-pound of potatoes smoothly mashed, half a nutmeg, a quarter-tea- 
spoonful of ginger, the same of salt, and of cloves in powder: mix these 
ingredients thoroughly, add four well-beaten eggs with a quarter-pint 
of milk, tie the pudding in a well-floured cloth, and boil it for four 
hours. 

Flour, lj lb. ; suet, 14 ozs. ; raisins stoned, 20 ozs. ; currants, 4 ozs. ; 
sugar, 5 ozs. ; potatoes, £ lb. ; | nutmeg ; ginger, salt, cloves, £ tea- 
spoonful each ; eggs, 4 ; milk, | pint : 4 hours. 

SMALL LIGHT PLUM PUDDING. 

Put half a pint of fine oread crumbs into a basin, and pour on them a 
quarter-pint of boiling milk ; put a plate over, and let them soak for half 
an hour; then mix with them half a pint of suet chopped extremely 
small, rather more of stoned raisins, three teaspoonsful of sugar, one of 
flour, three eggs, a tiny pinch of salt, and sufficient grated lemon-peel or 
nutmeg to flavour it lightly. Tie the pudding in a well-floured cloth, 
and boil it for two hours. 

Bread-crumbs, ^ pint; milk, I pint; suet, J pint; raisins, nearly^ 
pint; sugar, 3 teaspoonful, and 1 of flour; eggs, 3; little salt nutmeg; 
2 hours. 

ANOTHER PUDDING, LIGHT AND WHOLESOME.* 

With three ounces of the crumb of a stale loaf finely grated and 
soaked in a quarter-pint of boiling milk, mix six ounces of suet minced 
very small, one ounce of dry bread-crumbs, ten ounces of stoned raisins, 
a little salt, the grated rind of a china-orange, and three eggs, leaving 
out one white. Boil the pudding for two hours, and serve it with very 
sweet sauce ; put no sugar in it. 

vegetable plum pudding. (Cheap and good.) 
Mix well together one pound of smoothly-mashed potatoes, half a 
pound of carrots boiled quite tender, and beaten to a paste, one pound 
of flour, one of currants, and one of raisins (full weight after they are 
stoned), three quarters of a pound of sugar, eight ounces of suet, one 
nutmeg, and a quarter-teaspoonful of salt. Put the pudding into a well- 
floured cloth, tie it closely, and boil it for four hours. The correspond- 

*Both this, and the preceding pudding, will be found very delicate, and well suited 
to invalids. 



CHAP. XVII.] BOILED PUDDINGS. 279 

ent to whom we are indebted for this receipt says, that the cost of 
the ingredients does not exceed half a crown, and that the pudding- is of 
sufficient size for a party of sixteen persons. We can vouch for its 
excellence, but as it is rather apt to break when turned out of the cloth, 
a couple of eggs would perhaps improve it. Sweetmeats, brandy, and 
spices, can be added at pleasure. 

JVlashed potatoes, 1 lb. ; carrots, 8 ozs. ; flour, 1 lb. ; suet, § lb. ; sugar, 
| lb. ; currants and raisins, 1 lb. each ; nutmeg, 1 ; little salt : 4 hours. 

AN EXCELLENT SMALL MINCEMEAT PUDDING. 

Pour on an ounce of bread-crumbs, sufficient boiling milk to soak 
them well ; when they are nearly cold drain as much of it from them as 
you can, and mix them thoroughly witli half a pound of mincemeat, a 
dessertspoonful of brandy, and three eggs beaten and strained. Boil 
the pudding for two hours in a well-buttered basin, which should be full, 
and serve it with sauce made with a little melted butter, half a glass of 
white wine, a tablespoonful of brandy, half as much lemon-juice, and 
sufficient sugar to make it tolerably sweet. 

Bread-crumbs, 1 oz. ; mincemeat, ^ lb. ; brandy, dessertspoonful ; 
eggs, 3 : 2 hours. 

THE AUTHOR'S CHRISTMAS PUDDING. 

To three ounces of flour, and the same weight of fine, lightly-grated 
bread-crumbs, add six of beef kidney-suet, chopped small, six of raisins 
weighed after they are stoned, six of well cleaned currants, four ounces 
of minced apples, five of sugar, two of candied orange-rind, half a tea- 
spoonful of nutmeg mixed with pounded mace, a very little salt, a small 
glass of brandy, and three whole eggs. Mix and beat these ingredi- 
ents well together, tie them tightly in a thickly floured cloth, and boil 
them for three hours and a half We can recommend this as a remark- 
ably light small rich pudding : it may be served with German, wine, or 
punch sauce. 

Flour, 3 ozs. ; bread-crumbs, 3 czs. ; suet, stoned raisins, and cur- 
rants, each, 6 ozs. ; minced apples, 4 ozs. ; sugar, 5 ozs. ; candied peel, 
2 ozs.; spice, | teaspoonful; salt, few grains: brandy, small wineglass- 
full ; eggs, 3 : 3^ hours. 

ROLLED PUDDING. 

Roll out thin a bit of light puff paste, or a good suet crust, and spread 
equally over it to within an inch of the edge, any kind of fruit jam. 
Orange marmalade and mincemeat make excellent varieties of this 
pudding, and a deep layer of fine brown sugar, flavoured with the grated 
rind and strained juice of one very large, or of two small lemons, an- 
swers for it extremely well. Roll it up carefully, pinch the paste toge- 
ther at the ends, fold a cloth round, secure it well at the ends, and boil 
the pudding from one to two hours, according to its size and the nature 
of the ingredients. Haifa pound of flour made into a paste with suet 
or butter, and covered with preserve, will be quite sufficiently boiled in 
an hour and a quarter. 

BREAD PUDDING. 

Sweeten a pint of new milk with three ounces of fine sugar, throw 
in a few grains of salt, and pour it boiling on half a pound of fine, and 
lightly-grated bread-crumbs ; add an ounce of fresh butter, and cover 



280 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XVII. 

them with a plate ; let them remain for half an hour or more, and then 
stir to them four large well-whisked eggs, and a flavouring of nutmeg, 
or of lemon-rind ; pour the mixture into a thickly-buttered mould or 
basin, which holds a pint and a half, and which ought to be quite full ; 
tie a paper and a cloth tightly over, and boil the pudding exactly an 
hour and ten minutes. This is quite a plain receipt, but by omitting 
two ounces of the bread, and adding more butter, one egg, a small glass 
of brandy, the grated rind of a lemon, and as much sugar as will sweeten 
the whole richly, a very excellent pudding will be obtained ; candied 
orange-peel also has a good effect when sliced thinly into it; and half 
a pound of currants is generally considered a further improvement. 

New milk, 1 pint; sugar, 3 ozs. ; salt, few grains; bread-crumbs, ^ 
lb. ; eggs, 4 (5, if very small) ; nutmeg or lemon-rind at pleasure : 1 
hour and 10 minutes. 

Or: milk, 1 pint; bread-crumbs, 6 ozs. ; butter, 2 to 3 ozs. ; sugar, 4 
ozs.; eggs, 5; brandy, small glassful; rind, 1 lemon. Further addi- 
tions at choice : candied peel, 1^ oz. ; currants, i lb. 

BROWN BREAD PUDDING. 

To half a pound of stale brown bread, finely and lightly grated, add 
an equal weight of suet, chopped small, and of currants cleaned and 
dried, with half a saltspoonful of salt, three ounces of sugar, the third 
of a small nutmeg grated, two ounces of candied peel, five well-beaten 
eggs, and a glass of brandy. Mix these ingredients thoroughly, and 
boil the pudding in a cloth for three hours and a half. Send wine sauce 
to table with it. The grated rind of a large lemon may be added with 
good effect. 

Brown bread, suet, and currants, each 8 ozs. ; sugar, 3 ozs. ; candied 
peel, 2 ozs. ; salt, ^ saltspoonful ; A of small nutmeg; eggs, 5; brandy, 
1 wineglassful ; 3^ hours. 

A GOOD BOILED RICE PUDDING. 

Swell gradually,* and boil until quite soft and thick, four ounces and 
a half of whole rice in a pint and a half of new milk; sweeten them 
with from three to four ounces of sugar, broken small, and stir to them, 
while they are still quite hot, the grated rind of half a large lemon, four 
or five bitter almonds, pounded to a paste, and four large well-whisked 
eggs ; let the mixture cool, and then pour it into a thickly buttered 
basin, or mould, which should be quite full ; tie a buttered paper and a 
floured cloth over it, and boil the pudding exactly an hour; let it stand 
for two or three minutes before it is turned out, and serve it with sweet 
sauce, fruit syrup, or a compote of fresh fruit. An ounce and a half of 
candied orange-rind will improve it much, and a couple of ounces of 
butter may be added to enrich it, when the receipt, without is considered 
too simple. It is excellent when made with milk highly flavoured with 
cocoanut (see Chapter XX). 

Whole rice, 4^ ozs. ; new milk (or cocoa-nut-flavoured milk), 1-| 
pint ; sugar, 3 to 4 ozs. ; salt, a few grains; bitter almonds, 4 to 6 ; rind 
of A lemon ; eggs, 4 : boiled 1 hour. 

* That is to say, put the rice into the milk while cold, heat it slouly, and let it sim- 
mer onJy until it is done. 



CHAP. XVII.] BOILED PUDDINGS. 281 

CHEAP RICE PUDDING. 

Wash six ounces of rice, mix it with three quarters of a pound of lai- 
sins, tie them in a well-floured cloth, giving them plenty of room to 
swell ; boil them exactly an hour and three quarters, and serve the pud- 
ding with very sweet sauce: this is a nice dish for the nursery. A 
pound of apples pared, cored, and quartered, will also make a very 
wholesome pudding, mixed with the rice, and boiled from an hour and 
a quarter to an hour and a half. 

Rice, 6 ozs. ; raisins, \ lb. : 2 hours. Or, rice, 6 ozs. ; apples, 1 lb. : 
\\ to \\ hour. 

tomata dumplings, or puddings ; {an American Receipt.) 
" In the manner of composition, mode of cooking, and saucing, the 
good housewife must proceed in the same way as she would for an apple 
dumpling, with this exception, care must be taken in paring the tomata 
not to extract the seed, nor break the meat in the operation of skinning 
it. We have eaten tomatas raw without anything; — cut up with pep- 
per, salt, vinegar, and mustard ; — fried in butter and in lard ; — broiled 
and basted with butter; — stewed with and without bread, with cream 
and with butter ; — and, with a clear conscience, we can say, we like 
them in every way they have ever been fixed for the palate ; but of 
all the modes of dressing them, known to us, we prefer them when 
cooked in dumplings, for to us it appears that the steaming they receive 
in their dough-envelope increases in a very high degree that delicate 
spicy flavour which, even in their uncooked state, makes them such 
decided favourites with the epicure." 

Obs. — It is possible that the tomata, which is, we know, abundantly 
grown and served in a great variety of forms in America, may there, 
either from a difference of climate, or from some advantages of culture, 
be produced in greater perfection than with us, and possess really " the 
delicate spicy flavour" attributed to it in our receipt, but which we can- 
not say we have ever yet discovered here ; nor have we put its excel- 
lence for puddings to the proof, though some of our readers may like to 
do so. 

FASHIONABLE APPLE DUMPLINGS. 

These are boiled in small knitted or closely-netted cloths (the former 
have, we think, the prettiest effect), which give quite an ornamental 
appearance to an otherwise homely dish. Take out the cores without 
dividing the apples, which should be large, and of a good boiling sort, 
and fill the cavity with orange or lemon marmalade, enclose them in a 
good crust rolled thin, draw the cloths round them, tie them closely and 
.boil them for three quarters of an hour. Lemon dumplings may be 
boiled in the same way. 

| to 1 hour, if the apples be not of the best boiling kind. 

ORANGE SNOW-BALLS. 

Take out the unhusked grains, and wash w T ell half a pound of rice; 
put it into plenty of water, and boil it rather quickly for ten minutes; 
drain and let it cooL Pare four large, or five small oranges, and clear 
from them entirely the thick white inner skin ; spread the rice, in as 
many equal portions as there are oranges, upon some pudding or 
dumpling-cloths ; tie the fruit separately in these, and boil the snow- 



282 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XVII 

balls for an hour and a half; turn them carefully on to a dish, and strew 
plenty of sifted sugar over them. 
Rice, 8 ozs. ; oranges, 5 : \\ hour. 

APPLE SNOW-BALLS. 

Pare and core some large pudding-apples, without dividing them, 
prepare the rice as in the foregoing receipt, enclose them in it, and boil 
them for an hour : ten minutes less will be sufficient should the fruit be 
but of moderate size. An agreeable addition to them is a slice of fresh 
butter, mixed with as much sugar as can be smoothly blended with it, 
and a flavouring of powdered cinnamon, or of nutmeg : this must be 
sent to table apart from them, not in the dish. 

LIGHT CURRANT DUMPLINGS. 

For each dumpling take three tablespoonsful of flour, two of finely- 
minced suet, and three of currants, a slight pinch of salt, and as much 
milk or water as will make a thick batter of the ingredients. Tie the 
dumplings in well-floured cloths, and boil them for a full hour : they may 
be served with very sweet wine-sauce. 

LEMON DUMPLINGS. 

Mix, with ten ounces of fine bread-crumbs, half a pound of beef-suet, 
chopped extremely small, one large tablespoonful of flour, the grated 
rinds of two small lemons, or of a very large one, four ounces of pounded 
sugar, three large, or four small eggs beaten and strained, and last of 
all the juice of the lemons, also strained. Divide these into four equal 
portions, tie them in well-floured cloths, and boil them an hour. The 
dumplings will be extremely light and delicate ; if wished very sweet 
more sugar must be added to them. 

SWEET BOILED PATTIES. (GOOD.) 

Mix into a very smooth paste, three ounces of finely-minced suet, 
with eight of flour, and a slight pinch of salt; divide it into fourteen 
balls of equal size, roll them out quite thin and round, moisten the 
edges, put a little preserve into each, close the patties very securely to 
prevent its escape, throw them into a pan of boiling water, and in from 
ten to twelve minutes lift them out, and serve them instantly. Butter- 
crust may be used for them instead of suet, but it will not be so light. 

Flour, 8 ozs. ; suet, 3 ozs. ; little salt ; divided into fourteen portions : 
boil 10 to 12 minutes. 

BOILED RICE TO BE SERVED WITH STEWED FRUITS, PRESERVES, OR 
RASPBERRY VINEGAR. 

Take out the discoloured grains from half a pound of good rice ; and* 
wash it in several waters ; tie it very loosely in a pudding-cloth and 
boil it for three-quarters of an hour ; it will then be quite solid, and 
resemble a pudding in appearance. Sufficient room must be given to 
allow the grain to swell to its full size, or it will be hard ; but too much 
space will render the whole watery. With a little experience the cook 
will easily ascertain the exact degree to be allowed for it. Four ounces 
of rice will require quite half an hour's boiling ; a little more or less of 
time will sometimes be needed, from the difference of quality in the 
grain. 

Carolina rice, ^ lb., boiled | hour ; 4 ozs. rice, $ hour. 



CHAT. XVIII.] BAKED PUDDINGS. 283 



CHAPTER XVIII. 
BAKED PUDDINGS. 

INTRODUCTORY REMARKS. 

We have little to add here to the remarks which will be found at the 
commencement of the preceding Chapter, as they will apply equally to 
the preparation of these and of boiled puddings. 

All of the custard kind, whether made of eggs and milk only, or of 
sago, arrow-root, rice, ground or in grain, vermicelli, &c, require a 
very gentle oven, and are spoiled by fast-baking. Those made of bat- 
ter, on the contrary, should be put into one sufficiently brisk to raise 
them quickly, but without scorching them. Such as contain suet and 
raisins must have a well-heated, but not a fierce oven ; for as they must 
remain long in it to be thoroughly done, unless carefully managed, they 
will either be much too highly coloured, or too dry. 

By whisking to a solid froth the whites of the eggs used for any pud- 
ding, and stirring them softly into it at the instant of placing it in the 
oven, it will be rendered exceedingly light, and will rise very high in 
the dish ; but as it will partake then of the nature of a souffle, it must 
be despatched with great expedition to table from the oven, or it will 
become flat before it is served. 

When a pudding is sufficiently browned on the surface (that is to say, 
of a fine equal amber-colour) before it is baked through, a sheet of writ- 
ing paper should be laid over it, but not before it is set : when quite firm 
in the centre, it will be done. 

Potato, batter, plum, and every other kind of pudding indeed, which 
is sufficiently solid to allow of it, should be turned reversed on to a clean 
hot dish from the one in which it is baked, and strewed with sifted sugar, 
before it is sent to table. 

Minute directions for the preparation and management of each par- 
ticular variety of pudding will be found in the receipt for it. 

THE PRINTER'S PUDDING. 

Grate very lightly six ounces of the crumb of a stale loaf, and put it 
into a deep dish. Dissolve in a quart of cold new milk four ounces of 
good Lisbon sugar; add it to five large, well-whisked eggs; strain, and 
mix them with the bread-crumbs ; stir in two ounces of a fresh finely- 
grated cocoa-nut; add a flavouring of nutmeg or of lemon-rind, and the 
slightest pinch of salt; let the pudding stand for a couple of hours to 
soak the bread; and bake it in a gentle oven for three quarters of an 
hour: it is excellent if carefully made, and not too quickly baked. 
When the cocoa-nut is not at hand, an ounce of butter just dissolved, 
should be poured over the dish before the crumbs are put into it; and 
the rind of an entire lemon may be used to give it flavour; but the 
cocoa-nut imparts a peculiar richness when it is good and fresh. 

Bread-crumbs, 6, ozs. ; new milk, 1 quart ; sugar, 4 ozs. ; eggs, 5 ; 
cocoa-nut, 2 ozs. ; (or rind, 1 large lemon, and 1 oz. butter) slightest 
pinch of salt: to stand 2 hours. Baked in gentle oven full f hour? 

Obs.— When a very sweet pudding is liked, the proportion of sugar 
may be increased. 



284 MODERN COOKERY. fcHAP. XVIII. 

ALMOND PUDDING. 

On two ounces of fine white bread-crumbs pour a pint of boiling 
cream, and let them remain until nearly cold, then mix them very gra- 
dually with half a pound of sweet and six bitter almonds pounded to the 
smoothest paste, with a little orange-flower water, or, when this is not 
at hand, with a few drops of spring water, just to prevent their oiling ; 
stir to them by degrees the well-beaten yolks of seven and the whites 
of three eggs, six ounces of sifted sugar, and four of clarified butter ; 
turn the mixture into a very clean stewpan, and stir it without ceasing 
over a slow fire until it becomes thick, but on no account allow it to 
boil. When it is tolerably cool add a glass of brandy, or half a one of 
noyeau, pour the pudding into a dish lined with very thin puff paste, 
and bake it half an hour in a moderate oven. 

Bread-crumbs, 2 ozs. ; cream, 1 pint; pounded almonds, ^ lb.; bitter 
almonds, 6 ; yolks of 7, whites of 3 eggs ; sugar, 6 ozs. ; butter, 4 ozs. ; 
brandy, 1 wineglassful, or J glass of noyeau : \ hour, moderate oven. 

AN EXCELLENT LEMON PUDDING. 

Beat well together four ounces of fresh butter, creamed, and eight of 
sifted sugar ; to these add gradually the yolks of six and the whites of 
two eggs, with the grated rind and the strained juice of one large 
lemon : — this last must be added by slow degrees, and stirred briskly to 
the other ingredients. Bake the pudding in a dish lined with very thin 
puff-paste for three-quarters of an hour, in a slow oven. 

Butter, 4 ozs.; sugar, ^ lb. ; yolks of 6, whites of 2 eggs; large 
lemon, 1 : ^ hour, slow oven. 

ANOTHER LEMON PUDDING; (good.) 

Stir over a slow fire until they boil, four ounces and a half of butter 
with seven ounces of pounded sugar, then pour them into a dish and let 
them remain until cold, or nearly so. Mix very smoothly a large des- 
sertspoonful of flour with six eggs that have been whisked and strained ; 
add these gradually to the sugar and butter, with the grated rinds and 
the juice of two moderate-sized lemons; put a border or a lining of 
puff-paste to the pudding, and bake it for an hour in a gentle oven. 

Butter, 4 h ozs. ; sugar, 7 ozs. ; flour, 1 large dessertspoonful ; eggs, 
6 ; lemons, 2 : 1 hour, gentle oven. 

06.?. — The proportion of butter in these puddings is less than is com- 
monly used for them, but a larger quantity renders them so unwhole- 
somely rich that they are usually preferred with less. When a very 
powerful flavour of the fruit is liked, an additional lemon may be used 
in either of these receipts. The rinds may be rasped on part of the 
sugar, instead of being grated. A couple of sponge-biscuits soaked in 
cream, then pressed dry, and very finely bruised, can be substituted for 
the flour. 

LEMON SUET-PUDDING. 

To eight ounces of finely-grated bread-crumbs, add six of fresh beef 
kidney-suet, free from skin, and minced very small, three and a half of 
pounded sugar, six ounces of currants, the grated rind and the strained 
juice of a large lemon, and four full-sized or five small well-beaten 
eggs; pour these ingredients into a thickly-buttered pan, and bake 
the pudding for an hour in a brisk oven, but draw it towards the mouth 



CHAP. XVIII.] BAKED PUDDINGS. 285 

when it is of a fine brown colour. Turn it from the dish before it is 
served, and strew sifted sugar over it or not, at pleasure : two ounces 
more of suet can be added when a larger proportion is liked. The 
pudding- is very good without the currants. 

Bread-crumbs, 8 ozs. ; beef-suet, 6 ozs. ; pounded sugar, 3J ozs. ; 
lemon, 1 large ,- currants, 6 ozs. ; eggs, 4 large, or 5 small : 1 hour, 
brisk oven. 

BAKEWELL PUDDING. 

This pudding is famous not only in Derbyshire, but in several othei 
English counties, where it is usually served on all holiday-occasions. 
Line a shallow tart-dish with quite an inch-deep layer of several kinds 
of good preserves mixed together, and intermingle with them from two 
to three ounces of candied citron or orange-rind. Beat well the yolks 
of ten eggs, and add to them gradually half a pound of sifted sugar ; 
when they are well mixed, pour in by degrees half a pound of good 
clarified butter, and a little ratafia or any other flavour that may be 
preferred ; fill the dish two-thirds full with this mixture, and bake the 
pudding for nearly an hour in a moderate oven. Half the quantity will 
be sufficient for a small dish. 

Mixed preserves, lh to 2 lbs. ; yolks of eggs, 10; sugar, § lb. ; but- 
ter, i lb. ; ratafia, lemon-brandy, or other flavouring to the taste : baked, 
moderate oven, ^ to 1 hour. 

Obs. — This is a rich and expensive, but not a very refined pudding. 
A variation of it, known in the south as an Alderman's Pudding, is, we 
think, superior to it. It is made without the candied peel, and with a 
layer of apricot-jam only, six ounces of butter, six of sugar, the yolks 
of six, and the whites of two eggs. 

THE ELEGANT ECONOMIST'S PUDDING. 

We have already given a receipt for an exceedingly good boiled pud- 
ding bearing this title, but we think the baked one answers even bet- 
ter, and it is made with rather more facility. Butter a deep tart-dish 
well, cut the slices of plum-pudding to join exactly in lining it, and 
press them against it lightly to make them adhere, as without this pre- 
caution they are apt to float off; pour in as much custard (previously 
thickened and left to become cold), or any other sweet pudding mixture 
as will fill the dish almost to the brim ; cover the top with thin slices 
of the plum pudding, and bake it in a slow oven from thirty minutes to 
a full hour, according to the quantity and quality of the contents. One 
pint of new milk poured boiling on an ounce and a half of tous les mois, 
smoothly mixed with a quarter pint of cold milk, makes with the addi- 
tion of four ounces of sugar, four small eggs, a little lemon-grate, and 
two or three bitter almonds, or a few drops of ratafia, an excellent pud- 
ding of this kind ; it should be baked nearly three quarters of an hour 
in a quite slack oven. Two ounces and a half of arrow-root may be 
used in lieu of the tous les mois, when this last is not procurable. We 
would especially recommend for trial the ingredients of the lemon- 
pudding of page 284, (second receipt), with the plum-pudding crust, as 
likely to make a very superior variety of this dish ; we have not had it 
tested, but think it could scarcely fail. It must be well, though slowly 
baked. 



286 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XVIII. 

RICH BREAD AND BUTTER PUDDING. 

Give a good flavour of lemon-rind and bitter almonds, or of cinna- 
mon, if preferred, to a pint of new milk, and when it has simmered a 
sufficient time for this, strain and mix it with a quarter-pint of rich 
cream; sweeten it with four ounces of sugar in lumps, and stir while 
still hot to five well-beaten eggs ; throw in a few grains of salt, and 
move the mixture briskly with a spoon as a glass of brandy is added to 
it. Have ready in a thickly-buttered dish three layers of thin bread 
and butter cut from a half-quartern loaf, with four ounces of currants, 
and one and a half of finely shred candied peel, strewed between and 
over them ; pour the eggs and milk on them by degrees, letting the 
bread ausorb one portion before another is added : it should soak for a 
couple of hours before the pudding is taken to the oven, which should 
be a moderate one. Half an hour will bake it. It is very good when 
made with new milk only ; and some persons use no more than a pint 
of liquid in all, but part of the whites of the eggs may then be omitted. 
Cream may be substituted for the entire quantity of milk at pleasure. 

New milk, 1 pint; rind of small lemon, and 6 bitter almonds bruised 
(or \ drachm of cinnamon) : simmered 10 to 20 minutes. Cream, \ 
pint ; sugar, 4 ozs. ; eggs, 6 ; brandy, 1 wineglassful. Bread and but- 
ter, 3 layers; currants, 4 ozs.; candied orange or lemon-rind, 1^ oz. : 
to stand 2 hours, and to be baked 30 minutes in a moderate oven. 

COMMON BREAD AND BUTTER PUDDING. 

Sweeten a pint and a half of milk with four ounces of Lisbon sugar; 
stir it to four large well-beaten eggs, or to five small ones, grate half a 
nutmeg to them, and pour the mixture into a dish which holds nearly 
three pints, and which is filled almost to the brim with layers of bread 
and butter, between which three ounces of currants have been strewed. 
Lemon-grate, or orange-flower water can be added to this pudding in- 
stead of nutmeg, when preferred. From three quarters of an hour to 
an hour will bake it. 

Milk, 1^ pint; Lisbon sugar, 4 ozs.; eggs, 4 large, or 5 small; \ 
small nutmeg ; currants, 3 ozs. : baked | to 1 hour. 

A GOOD BAKED BREAD PUDDING. 

Pour, quite boiling, on six ounces (or three quarters of a pint) of fine 
bread-crumbs and one ounce of butter, a pint of new milk, cover them 
closely, and let them stand until the bread is well soaked ; then stir to 
them three ounces of sugar, five eggs, leaving out two of the whites, 
two ounces of candied orange-rind, sliced thin, and a flavouring of nut- 
meg ; when the mixture is nearly or quite cold pour it into a dish, and 
place lightly over the top the whites of three eggs beaten to a firm 
froth, and mixed at the instant with three large tablespoon sful of sifted 
sugar. Bake the pudding half an hour in a moderate oven. The icing 
may be omitted, and an ounce and a half of butter, just warmed, put 
into the dish before the pudding, and plenty of sugar, sifted over it just 
as it is sent to the oven. 

Bread, 6 ozs. ; butter, 1 oz. ; milk, 1 pint ; sugar, 3 ozs. ; eggs, 5 
yolks, 3 whites ; candied orange-rind, 2 ozs. ; little nutmeg. Icing, 3 
whites of eggs ; sugar, 3 tablespoonsful : baked, \ hour. 

ANOTHER BAKED BREAD PUDDING. 

Add to a pint of new milk a quarter-pint of good cream, and pour 



CHAP. XVIII.] BAKED PUDDINGS. 287 

them boiling on eight ounces of bread-crumbs, and three of fresh but- 
ter; when these have stood half an hour covered with a plate, stir to 
them four ounces of sugar, six ounces of currants, one and a half of 
candied orange or citron, and five eggs. 

SUTHERLAND OR CASTLE PUDDINGS. 

Take an equal weight of eggs in the shell, of good butter, of fine 
dry flour, and of sifted sugar. First, whisk the eggs for ten minutes, 
or until they appear extremely light; then throw in the sugar by 
degrees, and continue the whisking for four or five minutes ; next, 
strew in the flour, also gradually, and when it appears smoothly blended 
with the other ingredients, pour the butter to them in small portions, 
each of which should be beaten in until there is no appearance of it 
left. It should previously be just liquefied with the least possible degree 
of heat ; this may be effected by putting it into a well-warmed sauce- 
pan, and shaking it round until it is dissolved. A grain or two of salt 
should be thrown in with the flour ; and the rind of half a fine lemon 
rasped on sugar, or grated, if more convenient, or some pounded mace, 
or the store-flavouring of page 120, can be added at choice. Pour the 
mixture, directly it is ready, into well-buttered cups, and bake the pud- 
dings from twenty to twenty-five minutes. When cold, they resemble 
good pound-cakes, and may be served as such. Wine sauce should be 
sent to table with them. 

Eggs, 4; their weight in flour, sugar, and butter; little salt; flavour- 
ing of pounded mace or lemon-rind. 

Obs. — Three eggs are sufficient for a small dish of these puddings. 
They may be varied with an ounce or two of candied citron ; or with a 
spoonful of brandy, or a little orange flower water. The mode we have 
given of making them will be found perfectly successful if our direc- 
tions be followed with exactness. In a slack oven they will not be too 
much baked in half an hour. 

Madeleine puddings; (to be served cold.) 
Take the same ingredients as for the Sutherland pudddings, but cla- 
rify an additional ounce of butter; skim, and then fill some round tin 
pattypans with it almost to the brim, pour it from one to the other until 
all have received a sufficient coating to prevent the puddings from ad- 
hering to them, and leave half a teaspoon ful in each ; mix the remainder 
with the eggs, sugar, and flour, beat the whole up very lightly, fill the 
pans about two thirds full, and put them directly into a rather brisk 
oven, but draw them towards the mouth of it when they are sufficiently 
coloured ; from fifteen to eighteen minutes will bake them. Turn them 
out, and drain them on a sheet of paper. When they are quite cold, 
with the point of the knife take out a portion of the tops, hollow the 
puddings a little, and fill them with rich apricot-jam, well mixed with 
half its weight of pounded almonds, of which two in every ounce should 
be bitter ones. 

A FRENCH RICE PUDDING, OR GATEAU DE RIZ. 

Swell gently in a quart of new milk, or in equal parts of milk and 
cream, seven ounces of the best Carolina rice, which has been cleared 
of the discoloured grains, and washed and drained; when it is tolerably 
tender, add to it three ounces of frosh butter, and five of sugar roughly 



288 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XVII2. 

powdered, a few grains of salt, and the lightly grated rind of a fine 
lemon, and simmer the whole until the rice is swollen to the utmost ; 
then take it from the fire, let it cool a little, and stir to it quickly, and 
by degrees, the well-beaten yolks of six full-sized eggs. Pour into a 
small copper stewpan* a couple of ounces of clarified butter, and incline 
it in such a manner that it may receive an equal coating - in every part ; 
then turn it upside down for an instant, to drain off the superfluous but- 
ter; next, throw in some exceedingly fine light crumbs of stale bread, 
and shake them entirely over it, turn out those which do not adhere, 
and with a small brush or feather sprinkle more clarified butter slightly 
on those which line the pan. ■ Whisk quickly the whites of the eggs to 
snow, stir them gently to the rice, and pour the mixture softly into the 
stewpan, that the bread-crumbs may not be displaced ; put it immedi- 
ately into a moderate oven, and let it remain in a full hour. It will 
then, if properly baked, turn out from the mould or pan well browned, 
quite firm, and having the appearance of a cake; but a fierce heat will 
cause it to break, and present an altogether unsightly appearance. In 
a very slack oven, a longer time must be allowed for it. 

New milk, or milk and cream, 1 quart ; Carolina rice, 7 ozs. : ^ hour. 
Fresh butter, 3 ozs. ; sugar, in lumps, 5 ozs. ; rind, 1 large lemon : | to 
1£ hour. Eggs, 6: baked in a moderate oven, 1 hour. 

Obs. — An admirable variety of this gateau is made with cocoa-nut 
flavoured milk, or cream (see Chapter XX.), or with either of these 
poured boiling on six ounces of Jordan almonds, finely pounded, and 
mixed with a dozen of bitter ones, then expressed from them with 
strong pressure; it may likewise be flavoured with vanilla, or with 
candied orange-blossoms, and covered, at the instant it is dished, with 
strawberry, apple, or any other clear jelly. 

A COMMON RICE PUDDING. 

Throw six ounces of rice into plenty of cold water, and boil it gently 
from eight to ten minutes ; drain it well in a sieve or strainer, and put 
it into a clean saucepan with a quart of milk ; let it stew until tender, 
sweeten it with three ounces of sugar, stir to it, gradually, three large, 
or four small eggs, beaten and strained ; add grated nutmeg, lemon- 
rind, or cinnamon, to give it flavour, and bake it one hour in a gentle 
oven. 

Rice, 6 ozs. ; in water, 8 to 10 minutes. Milk, 1 quart: £ to 1 hour. 
Sugar, 3 ozs. ; eggs, 3 large, or 4 small ; flavouring of nutmeg, lemon- 
rind, or cinnamon : bake 1 hour, gentle oven. 

RICHER RICE PUDDING. 

Pick and wash very clean four ounces of whole rice, pour on it a 
pint and a half of new milk, and stew it slowly till quite tender; be- 
fore it is taken from the fire, stir in two ounces of good butter, and three 
of sugar; and when it has cooled a little, add four well-whisked eggs, 
and the grated rind of half a lemon. Bake the pudding in a gentle 
oven from thirty to forty minutes. As rice requires long boiling to ren- 
der it sof'" in milk, it may be partially stewed in water, the quantity of 

* One which holds about five pints is well adapted to the purpose. When this is not 
at hand, a copper cake-mould may be substituted for it. The stewpan must not be 
povered while the gateau is bakiiur. 



CHAP. XVIII.] BAKED PUDDINGS. 289 

milk diminished to a pint, and a little thick sweet cream mixed with it, 
before the other ingredients are added. 

Rice, 4 ozs. ; new milk, 1 £ ; butter, 2 ozs. ; sugar, 3 ozs. ; eggs, 4 ; 
rind of i lemon : 30 to 40 minutes, slow oven. 

RICE-PUDDING MERINGUE. 

Swell gently four ounces of Carolina rice in a pint and a quarter of 
milk or of thin cream ; let it cool a little, and stir to it an ounce and a 
half of butter, three of pounded sugar, a grain or two of salt, the grated 
rind of a small lemon, and the yolks of four large, or of five small eggs. 
Pour the mixture into a well-buttered dish, and lay lightly and equally 
over the top the whites of four eggs, beaten as for sponge-cakes, and 
mixed at the instant with from four to five heaped tablespoonsful of 
sifted sugar. Bake the pudding half an hour in a moderate oven, but 
do not allow the meringue to be too deeply coloured ; it should be of 
clear brown, and very crisp. Serve it directly it is taken from the oven. 

Rice, 4 ozs. ; milk, or cream, 1^ pint; butter, 1^ oz. ; sugar, 3 ozs. ; 
rind, 1 lemon ; yolks of eggs, 4 or 5 ; the whites beaten to snow, and 
mixed with as many tablespoonsful of sifted sugar: baked | hour, 
moderate oven. 

Obs. — A couple of ounces of Jordan almonds, with six bitter ones, 
pounded quite to a paste, will improve this dish, whether mixed with the 
pudding itself, or with the meringue. 

GOOD GROUND RICE PUDDING. 

Mix very smoothly five ounces of flour of rice (or of ground rice, if 
preferred), with half a pint of milk, and pour it into a pint and a half 
more which is boiling fast ; keep it stirred constantly over a gentle fire 
from ten to twelve minutes, and be particularly careful not to let it burn 
to the pan ; add to it before it is taken from the fire, a quarter of a pound 
of good butter, from five to six ounces of sugar, roughly powdered, and 
a half-saltspoonful of salt; turn it into a pan, and stir it for a few 
minutes, to prevent its hardening at the top ; then mix with it, by de- 
grees, but quickly, the yolks of eight eggs, and the whites of only two, 
the grated or rasped rind of a fine lemon, and a glass of brandy. Lay 
a border of rich paste round a buttered dish, pour in the pudding, strain 
a little clarified butter over the top, moisten the paste with a brush, or 
small bunch of feathers dipped in cold water, and sift plenty of sugar on 
it, but less over the pudding itself. Send it to a very gentle oven to be 
baked for three-quarters of an hour. 

Rice-flour (or ground rice), 5 ozs.; new milk, 1 quart: 10 to 12 
minutes. Butter, 4 ozs. ; sugar, 5 to 6 ozs. ; salt, $ saltspoonful ; yolks, 
8 eggs; whites, 2; rind, 1 large lemon; brandy, large wineglassful : f 
hour, slow oven. 

06s. — These proportions are sufficient for a pudding of larger size 
than those served usually at elegant tables ; they will make two small 
ones; or two-thirds of the quantity may be taken for one of moderate 
size. Lemon-brandy, or ratafia, or a portion of each, may be used to 
give it flavour, with good effect ; and it may be enriched, if this be de- 
sired, by adding to the other ingredients from three to four ounces of 
Jordan almonds, finely pounded, and by substituting cream for half of 
the milk. 
18 



290 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XVIII 

COMMON GROUND-RICE PUDDING. 

One pint and a half of milk, three ounces and a half of rice, three 
of Lisbon sugar, one and a half of butter, some nutmeg, or lemon-grate, 
and four eggs, baked slowly for half an hour, or more, if not quite firm. 

POTATO-PUDDING. 

With a pound and a quarter of fine mealy potatoes, boiled very dry, 
and mashed perfectly smooth while hot, mix three ounces of butter, 
five and a half of sugar, five eg-gs, a few grains of salt, and the grated 
rind of a small lemon. Pour the mixture into a well-buttered dish, and 
bake it in a moderate oven for nearly three-quarters of an hour. It 
should be turned out and sent to table with fine sugar sifted over it; or 
for variety, red currant-jelly, or any other preserve may be spread on it 
as soon as it is dished. 

Potatoes, 1 i lb. ; butter, 3 ozs. : sugar, 5| ozs. ; eggs, 5 ; lemon-rind, 
1 ; salt, few grains: 40 to 45 minutes. 

Obs. — When cold, this pudding eats like cake, and may be served as 
such, omitting, of course, the sugar or preserve when it is dished. 

A RICHER POTATO PUDDING. 

Beat well together fourteen ounces of mashed potatoes, four ounces 
of butter, four of fine sugar, five eggs, the grated rind of a small lemon, 
and a slight pinch of salt ; add half a glass of brandy, and pour the 
pudding into a thickly-buttered dish, ornamented with slices of candied 
orange or lemon rind ; pour a little clarified butter on the top, and then 
sift plenty of white sugar over it. 

Potatoes, 14 ozs. ; butter, 4 ozs. ; sugar, 4 ozs. ; eggs, 5 ; lemon-rind, 
1 ; little salt ; brandy, ^ glassful ; candied peel, 1£ to 2 ozs. : 40 
minutes. 

Obs. — The potatoes for these receipts should be lightly and carefully 
mashed, but never pounded in a mortar, as that will convert them into 
a heavy paste. The better plan is to prepare them by Captain Kater's 
receipt (page 230), when they will fall to powder almost of themselves ; 
or they may be grated while hot through a wire-sieve. From a quarter 
to a half pint of cream is, by many cooks, added to potato puddings. 

AN EXCELLENT SPONGE CAKE PUDDING. 

Slice into a well-buttered tart-dish three penny sponge cakes, and 
place on them a couple of ounces of candied orange or lemon-peel cut 
in strips. Whisk thoroughly six eggs, and stir to them boiling a pint 
and a quarter of new milk, in which three ounces of sugar have been 
dissolved ; grate in the rind of a small lemon, and when they are some- 
what cooled, add half a wineglasslul of brandy ; while still warm, pour 
the mixture on to the cakes, and let it remain an hour ; then strain an 
ounce and a half of clarified butter over the top, sift or strew pounded 
sugar rather thickly on it, and bake the pudding for half an hour in a 
moderate oven. 

Sponge cakes, 3; candied peel, 2 ozs.; eggs, 6 ; new milk, 1J pint; 
sugar, 3 ozs. ; lemon-rind, 1 ; brandy, § glass ; butter, 1 oz. ; sifted 
sugar, li oz. : i hour. 

THE DUCHESS'S PUDDING. 

Mix with half a pound of potatoes very smoothly mashed, three quar- 



CHAP. XVIII.] BAKED PUDDINGS. 291 

ters of a pound of mincemeat, the grated rind of half a lemon, a des- 
sertspoonful of sugar, and four large, or five small eggs; pour the whole 
into a well-buttered dish, and put over the top clarified butter and sugar, 
as in the preceding receipt. Bake the pudding tor a full hour and 
twenty minutes. 

Potatoes, h lb.; mincemeat, £ lb.; rind of lemon, h; sugar, 1 des- 
sertspoonful ; eggs, 4 large, or 5 small : 1 hour 20 minutes. 

BAKED APPLE PUDDING, OR CUSTARD. 

Weigh a pound of good boiling apples after they are pared and 
cored, and stew them to a perfectly smooth marmalade, with six ounces 
of sugar, and a spoonful or two of water: stir them often that they may 
not stick to the pan. Mix with them while they are still quite hot, 
three ounces of butter, the grated rind and the strained juice of a lemon, 
and lastly, stir in by degrees the well-beaten yolks of five eggs, and a 
dessertspoonful of flour, or in lieu of the last, three or four Naples' 
biscuits, or macaroons crushed small. Bake the pudding for a full half 
hour in a moderate oven, or longer should it not be quite firm in the 
middle. A little clarified butter poured on the top, with sugar sifted 
over, improves all baked puddings. 

Apples, 1 lb. ; sugar, b' ozs. ; water, 1 cupful ; butter, 3 ozs. ; juice 
and rind, 1 lemon; 5 eggs: A hour, or more. 

Obs. — Many cooks press the apples through a sieve after they are 
boiled, but this is not needful when they are of a good kind, and stewed, 
and beaten smooth. 

A COMMON BAKED APPLE PUDDING. 

Boil a pound and a quarter of apples with half a small cupful of 
water and six ounces of brown sugar ; when they are reduced to a 
smooth pulp, stir to them two ounces of butter, a tablespoonfnl of flour, 
or a handful of fine bread-crumbs, and five well-beaten eggs; grate ir? 
half a nutmeg, or flavour the pudding with pounded cinnamon, and 
bake it nearly three quarters of an hour. More or less of sugar will be 
required for these puddings, according to the time of year, as the fruit 
is much more acid when first gathered than when it has been some 
months stored. 

Apples, li lb. ; water, i small cupful; sugar, 6 ozs. ; butter, 2 ozs. ; 
flour, 1 tablespoonful, or bread-crumbs, 1 handful ; % nutmeg ; eggs, 5 : 
| hour. 

ESSEX PUDDING. (CHEAP AND GOOD.) 

Mix with a quarter of a pound of mashed potatoes, half a pound of 
good boiling apples minced, four ounces of brown sugar, four small eggs 
well beaten and strained, and a little grated lemon-peel or nutmeg. 
Increase the ingredients one half, and add two ounces of butter, should 
a larger and better pudding be desired : about half an hour will 
bake it. 

Potatoes mashed, 4 ozs. ; apples, 8 ozs. ; sugar, 4 ozs. ; eggs, 4 : § 
hour. 

DUTCH CUSTARD, OR BAKED RASPBERRY PUDDING. 

Lay into a tart-dish a border of puff-paste, and a pint and a half of 
fresnly-gathered raspberries, well mixed with three ounces of sugar. 
Whisk thoroughly six large eggs with three ounces more of sugar, and 



292 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XVIII. 

pour it over the fruit : bake the pudding from twenty-five to thirty 
minutes in a moderate oven. 

Break the eggs one at a time into a cup, and with the point of a 
small three-pronged fork take off the specks or germs, before they are 
beaten, as we have directed in page 269. 

Raspberries, 1| pint ; sugar, 6 ozs. ; eggs, 6 : 25 to 30 minutes. 

VERMICELLI PUDDING. 

Drop lightly into a pint and a half of boiling milk four ounces of 
fresh vermicelli, and keep it simmering and stirred gently for ten mi- 
nutes, when it will have become very thick; then mix with it three 
ounces and a half of sugar, two ounces of butter, and a small pinch of 
salt. When the whole is well blended, pour it out ; beat it for a couple 
of minutes to cool it a little; then add by degrees five well-whisked 
eggs, the grated rind of a lemon, and just before it is put into the dish, 
a small glass of brandy : bake it from half to three quarters of an hour. 
Vermicelli varies much in quality, and of some kinds three ounces will 
render the pudding quite firm enough. 

Milk, li pint; vermicelli, 4 ozs. ; 10 minutes. Sugar, 3^ ozs. ; but- 
ter, 2 ozs. ; pinch of salt; eggs, 5; lemond-rind, 1; brandy, 1 wine- 
glassful : 4 to i hour. 

Obs. — This pudding requires, more than many others, a little clari- 
fied butter poured on the top, and sugar sifted over. Candied peel may 
be added to it with good effect; and three or four bitter almonds, 
pounded, may be used to give it flavour instead of lemon-rind. 

SMALL COCOA-NUT PUDDINGS. 

Melt together over a slow fire two ounces of fresh butter cut small, 
and four of pounded sugar ; pour them out when they have boiled for a 
couple of minutes, and let them cool; mix with them two ounces of 
finely-grated cocoa-nut, an ounce of citron shred small, the grated rind 
of half a large lemon, and four eggs : when these have been well beaten 
together, add the strained juice of the half lemon; put the mixture into 
buttered pattypans, or pudding-cups, sift sugar over, and bake them half 
an hour in a moderate oven. This is an excellent and a perfectly new 
receipt ; but in making use of it care should be taken to ascertain that 
the nut be fresh and sweet flavoured, as the slightest degree of rancidity 
will spoil the puddings. They are better hot than cold, though very 
good either way. 

Fresh butter, 2 ozs. ; pounded sugar, J lb. ; cocoa-nut, 2 ozs. ; candied 
citron, 1 oz. ; rind and juice of \ lemon; eggs, 4: \ hour. 

Obs. — The same ingredients may be made into one pudding only, and 
longer baked. 

GOOD YORKSHIRE PUDDING. 

To make a very good and light Yorkshire pudding, take an equd. 
number of eggs and of heaped tablespoonsful of flour, with a teaspoonful 
of salt to six of these. Whisk the eggs well, strain, and mix them 
gradually with the flour, then pour in by degrees as much new milk as 
will reduce the batter to the consistency of rather thin cream. The 
tin which is to receive the pudding must have been placed for some 
time previously under a joint that has been put down to roast: one or 
beef is usually preferred. Beat the batter briskly and lightly, the hv 



CHAP. XVIII.] BAKED FUDD1NGS. 29<{ 

stant before it is poured into the pan, watch it carefully that it may not 
burn, and let the edges have an equal share of the fire. When the 
pudding is quite firm in every part, and well-coloured on the surface, 
turn it to brown the under side. This is best accomplished by first 
dividing it into quarters. In Yorkshire it is made much thinner than 
in the south, roasted generally at an enormous fire, and not turned at 
all : currants there are sometimes added to it. 

Eggs, 6 ; flour, six heaped tablespoonsful, or from 7 to 8 ozs. ; milk, 
nearly or quite, 1 pint ; salt, 1 teaspoonful : 2 hours. 

Obs. — This pudding should be quite an inch thick when it is browned 
on both sides, but only half the depth when roasted in the Yorkshire 
mode. The cook must exercise her discretion a little in mixing the 
batter, as from the variation of weight in flour, and in the size of eggs, 
a little more or less of milk may be required : the whole should be rather 
more liquid than for a boiled pudding. 

COMMON YORKSHIRE PUDDING. 

Half a pound of flour, three eggs (we would recommend a fourth), 
rather more than a pint of milk, and a teaspoonful of salt. 

NORMANDY PUDDING. (GOOD.) 

Boil, until very soft and dry, eight ounces of rice in a pint and a half, 
or rather more, of water,* stir to it two ounces of fresh butter, and three 
of sugar, and simmer it for a few minutes after they are added; then 
pour it out, and let it cool for use. Strip from the stalks as many red 
currants, or morella cherries, as will fill a tart-dish of moderate size, 
and for each pint of the fruit allow from three to four ounces of sugar. 
Line the bottom and sides of a deep dish with part of the rice ; next, 
put in a thick layer of fruit and sugar; then one of rice and one of fruit 
alternately until the dish is full. Sufficient of the rice should be re- 
served to form a rather thick layer at the top : smooth this equally with 
a knife, and send the pudding to a moderate but not very slow oven, for 
half an hour, and more, should it be large. When two thirds baked, it 
may be glazed with yolk of egg, brushed over, and fine sugar sifted on 
it. Morella cherries, with a little additional sugar, make an excellent 
pudding of this kind. 

DAMSON-AND-RICE PUDDING. 

With five ounces of whole rice boiled soft and dry, mix an ounce of 
butter, ten ounces of damson-jam, a teaspoonful of lemon-juice, and five 
eggs. Beat the whole well together, and bake it about half an hour. 

Rice, 5 ozs. ; damson-jam, 10 ozs. ; butter, 1 oz. ; eggs, 5: 5 hour. 

BARBERRY-AND-RICE PUDDING. 

Mix ten ounces of barberries stripped from the stalks, with four ounces 
of whole boiled rice, eight ounces of sugar, a small slice of butter, and 
five large, or six small eggs. 

APPLE-AND-RICE PUDDING. 

Boil together one pound of good pudding-apples, and six ounces of 
sugar, until they are reduced to a smooth pulp ; stir them often to pre- 
vent their burning ; mix with them four ounces of boiled rice, two ounces 



* A quart of milk can be substituted for this ; but with the fruit, water perhaps ar* 
Bwers better. 



294 MODERN OOOKERY [CHAP. XVIII. 

of butter, and five large eggs. Should the apples be very acid, increase 
the quantity of sugar: add lemon rind or juice, at pleasure. These 
puddings are better if mixed while the ingredients are still warm. 

Apples, 1 lb. ; sugar, 6 ozs. ; boiled rice, 4 ozs. ; butter, 2 ozs. ; eggs, 
5 : 30 to 35 minutes. 

COMMON RAISIN PUDDING. 

Beat well together three quarters of a pound of flour, the same quan- 
tity of raisins, six ounces of beef-suet, finely chopped, a small pinch of 
salt, some grated nutmeg, and three eggs which have been thoroughly 
whisked, and mixed with about a quarter-pint of milk, or less than this, 
should the eggs be large. Pour the whole into a buttered dish, and 
bake it an hour and a quarter. For a large pudding, increase the quan- 
tities one half. 

Flour and stoned raisins, each ^ lb. ; suet, 6 ozs. ; salt, small pinch ; 
nutmeg, ^ teaspoonful; eggs, 3; milk, £ pint: 1^ hour. 

A RICHER RAISIN PUDDING. 

Mix and whisk well, and lightly together, a pound of raisins weighed 
after they are stoned, ten ounces of finely minced beef-suet, three quar- 
ters of a pound of flour, a little salt, half a small nutmeg, or the grated 
rind of a lemon, four large eggs, and as much milk as may be needed 
to make the whole into a very thick batter: bake the pudding a few 
minutes longer than the preceding one. The addition of sugar will be 
found no improvement, as it will render it much less light. 

POOR AUTHOR'S PUDDING. 

Flavour a quart of new milk by boiling in it for a few minutes half a 
stick of well-bruised cinnamon, or the thin rind of a small lemon; add a 
few grains of salt, and three ounces of sugar, and turn the whole into a 
deep basin ; when it is quite cold, stir to it three well-beaten eggs, and 
strain the mixture into a pie-dish. Cover the top entirely with slices 
of bread free from crust, and half an inch thick, cut so as to join neatly, 
and buttered on both sides : bake the pudding in a moderate oven for 
about half an hour, or in a Dutch oven before the fire. 

New milk, 1 quart; cinnamon, or lemon-rind; sugar, 3 ozs.; little 
salt ; eggs, 3 ; buttered bread : baked | hour. 

PUDDING A LA PAYSANNE ; (cheap (211(1 good.) 

Fill a deep tart-dish with alternate layers of well-sugared fruit, and 
very thin slices of the crumb of a light stale loaf; let the upper layer be 
of fruit, and should it be of a dry kind, sprinkle over it about a dessert- 
spoonful of water, or a little lemon-juice : raspberries, currants, and cher- 
ries, will not require this. Send the pudding to a somewhat brisk oven 
to be baked for about half an hour. The proportion of sugar used must 
be regulated, of course, by the acidity of the fruit. For a quart of ripe 
greengages, split and stoned, five ounces will be sufficient. Apricots, 
peaches, and nectarines will scarcely require more; but damsons, bu 1 
laces, and various other plums will need a much larger quantity. A 
superior pudding of this kind is made by substituting sponge cake for 
the bread. 

INDIAN PUDDING. 

Put into a deep dish from six to eight ounces of rice which has been 



CHAP. XIX.] SOUFFLES, OMLETS, &C. 295 

washed, and wiped in a dry cloth ; just moisten it with milk, and set it 
into a gentle oven ; add milk to it at intervals, in small quantities, unti. 
the grain is swollen to its full size, and is tender, but very dry ; then 
mix with it two dessertspoonsful of fine sugar, and if it should be at 
hand, four or five tablespoonsful of rich cream. Fill a tart-dish almost 
to the brim with fruit properly sugared, heap the rice equally over it, 
leaving it rough, and bake it in a moderate oven for half an hour, unless 
the fruit should be of a kind to require a longer time ; when very hard, 
it must be half stewed with the sugar before it is put into the dish. The 
rice may be swelled over a very slow fire when more convenient ; and 
the Dutch or American oven will serve quite well to bake the pudding. 

BAKED HASTY PUDDING. 

Take from a pint of new milk sufficient to mix into a thin batter two 
ounces of flour, put the remainder, with a small pinch of salt, into a 
clean saucepan, and when it boils quickly, stir the flour briskly to it; 
keep it stirred over a gentle fire for ten minutes, pour it out, and when 
it has become a little cool, mix with it two ounces of fresh butter, three 
of pounded sugar, the grated rind of a small lemon, four large, or five 
small eggs, and half a glass of brandy, or as much orange-flower water. 
To these half a dozen bitter almonds, pounded to a paste, are sometimes 
added. Bake the pudding half an hour in a gentle oven. 

New milk, 1 pint; flour, 2 ozs. : 10 minutes. Butter, 2 ozs. ; sugar. 
3 ozs. ; eggs, 4 or 5 ; grated rind of lemon ; brandy, or orange-flower 
water, £ wineglassful. 



CHAPTER XIX. 

SOUFFLES, OMLETS, &c. 

OBSERVATIONS ON OMLETS, FRITTERS, &C. 

The composition and nature of a souffle are altogether different, but 
there is no difficulty in making good omlets, pancakes, or fritters, and 
as they may be expeditiously prepared and served, they are often a very- 
convenient resource when, on short notice, an addition is required to a 
dinner. The eggs for all of them should be well and lightly whisked ; 
the lard for frying batter should be extremely pure in flavour, and quite 
hot when the fritters are dropped in ; the batter itself should be smooth 
as cream, and it should be briskly beaten the instant before it is used. 
All fried pastes should be perfectly drained from the fat before they are 
served, and sent to table promptly when they are ready. Eggs may be 
dressed in a multiplicity of ways, but are seldom, in any form, more 
relished than in a well-made and expeditiously served omlet. This may 
be plain, or seasoned with minced herbs, and a very little eschalot, when 
the last is liked, and is then called an " Omlette aux fines herbes ;" or 
it may be mixed with minced ham, or grated cheese; in any case, it 
should be light, thick, full-tasted, and fried only on one side ; if turned 
in the pan, as it frequently is, it will at once be flattened and rendered 
tough. Should the slight rawness which is sometimes found in the 



296 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XIX. 

middle of the inside, when the omlet is made in the French way, be 
objected to, a heated shovel, or a salamander, may be held over it for 
an instant, before it is folded on the dish. The pan for frying it should 
be quite small ; for if it be composed of four or five eggs only, and then 
put into a large one, it will necessarily spread over it and be thin, which 
would render it more like a pancake than an omlet; the only partial 
remedy for this, when a pan of proper size cannot be had, is to raise the 
handle of it high, and to keep the opposite side close down to the fire, 
which will confine the eggs into a smaller space. No gravy should 
ever be poured into the dish with it, and indeed, if properly made, it 
will require none. Lard is preferable to butter for frying batter, as it 
renders it lighter ; but it must not be used for omlets. 

A COMMON OMLET. 

From four to eight very fresh eggs may be used for this, according to 
the sized dish required. Half a dozen will generally be sufficient. 
Break them singly and carefully ; clear them in the way we have 
already pointed out in the introduction to boiled puddings, or when they 
are sufficiently whisked pour them through a sieve, and resume the 
beating until they are very light. Add to them from half to a whole 
teaspoonful of salt, and a seasoning of pepper. Dissolve in a small fry- 
ing pan a couple of ounces of butter, pour in the eggs, and as soon as 
the omlet is well risen and firm throughout, slide it on to a hot dish, 
fold it together like a turnover, and serve it immediately ; from five to 
seven minutes will fry it. 

For other varieties of the omlet, see the observations which precede 
this. 

AN OMLETTE SOUFFLEE. 

Separate, as they are broken, the whites from the yolks of six fine 
fresh eggs ; beat these last thoroughly, first by themselves and then with 
four tablespoonsful of dry, white sifted sugar, and the rind of half a 
lemon grated on a fine grater.* Whisk the whites to a solid froth, and 
just before the omlet is poured into the pan, mix them well, but lightly, 
with the yolks. Put four ounces of fresh butter into a very small deli- 
cately clean omlet, or frying-pan, and as soon as it is all dissolved, add 
the eggs and stir them round, that they may absorb it entirely. When 
the under side is just set, turn the omlet into a well-buttered dish, and 
send it to a tolerably brisk oven. From five to ten minutes will bake 
it; and it must be served the instant it is taken out; carried, indeed, as 
quickly as possible to table from the oven. It will have risen to a great 
height, but will sink and become heavy in a very short space of time: 
if sugar be sifted over it, let it be done with the utmost expedition. 

Eggs, 6 ; sugar, 4 tablespoonsful ; rind, i lemon ; butter, 4 ozs. : 
omlet baked, 5 to 10 minutes. 

Obs. — A large common frying-pan will not answer for omlets: a 
very small one should be kept for them, when there is no regular omlet- 
pan. 

SOUFFLES. 

The admirable lightness and delicacy of a well-made souffle render it 
generally a very favourite dish, and it is now a fashionable one also. It 

* As we have before said, a much more delicate flavour is imparted by rasping the 
lemon-rind on sugar. 



CHAP. XIX.] SOUFFLES, OMLETS, &C. 25)7 

may be greatly varied in its composition, but in all cases must be served 
the very instant it is taken from the oven ; and even in passing to the 
dining-room it should, if possible, be prevented from sinking by a heated 
iron or salamander held above it. A common souffle-pan may be pur- 
chased for a dollar, in England, but those of silver or plated metal are 
of course expensive ; the part in which the souffle is baked is placed 
within the more ornamental dish when it is drawn from the oven. A 
plain, round, shallow cake-mould, with a strip of writing-paper six 
inches high, placed inside the rim, will answer on an emergency to bake 
a souffle in. The following receipt will serve as a guide tor the proper 
mode of making it: the process is always the same whether the prin- 
cipal ingredient be whole rice boiled very tender in milk and pressed 
through a sieve, bread-crumbs soaked as for a pudding and worked 
through a sieve also, arrow-root, potato-flour, or anything else of which 
light puddings in general are made. 

Take from a pint and a half of new milk or of cream sufficient to mix 
four ounces of flour of rice to a perfectly smooth batter; put the 
remainder into a very clean, well-tinned saucepan, and when it boils, 
stir the rice briskly to it ; let it simmer, keeping it stirred all the time, 
for ten minutes, or more should it not be very thick, then mix well with 
it two ounces of fresh butter, one and a half of pounded sugar, and the 
grated rind of a fine lemon (or let the sugar which is used for it be well 
rubbed on the lemon before it is crushed to powder) ; in two or three 
minutes take it from the fire, and beat quickly and carefully to it by 
degrees the yolks of six eggs; whisk the whites to a very firm solid 
froth, and when the pan is buttered, and all else quite ready for the 
oven, stir them gently to the other ingredients; pour the souffle imme- 
diately into the pan and place it in a moderate oven, of which keep the 
door closed for a quarter of an hour at least. When the souffle has 
risen very high, is of a fine colour, and quite done in the centre, which 
it will be in from half to three quarters of an hour, send it instantly to 
table. The exact time for baking it depends so much on the oven that 
it cannot be precisely specified. We have known quite a small one not 
too much baked in forty-five minutes in an iron oven; but generally 
less time will suffice for them : the heat, however, should always be 
moderate. 

New milk or cream, If pint; flour of rice, 4 ozs. ; fresh butter, 2 
ozs. ; pounded sugar, 1£ oz. ; eggs, 6; grain of salt; rind, 1 lemon: 
30 to 45 minutes. 

Obs. 1. — The souffle may be flavoured with vanilla, orange-flowers, 
or aught else that is liked. Chocolate and coffee also may be used for 
it with soaked bread : a very strong infusion of the last, and an ounce 
or two of the other, melted with a little water, are to be added to the 
milk and bread. 

Obs. 2. — A souffle' is commonly served in a dinner of ceremony as a 
remove of the roast, but the better plan for this, as for a fondu, is to 
have it quickly handed round, instead of being placed upon, the table. 

A PONDU. 

Mix to a smooth batter, with a quarter of a pint of new milk, two 
ounces of potato- flour, arrow-root, or tous les mois : pour boiling to them 
three quarters of a pint more of milk, or of cream in preference, stir 



298 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XIX. 

them well together, and then throw in two ounces of butter cut small. 
When this is melted, and well-beaten into the mixture, add the well 
whisked yolks of four large or of live small eggs, half a teaspoonful of 
salt, something less of cayenne, and three ounces of lightly-grated 
cheese, Parmesan or rich old cheese, or equal parts of both. Whisk 
the whites of the eggs to a quite firm and solid froth ; then proceed, as 
for a souffle, to mix and bake the fondu. 
20 minutes. 

KENTISH FRITTERS. 

Beat up the whites of three eggs and the yolks of six with half a 
pound of flour, a cupful of milk, and a large teaspoonful of yeast : put 
the mixture into a jug, cover it, and set it by the fire until the next 
day, then add to the batter two large apples finely chopped, and fry the 
fritters as usual. 

Whites of eggs, 3; yolks, 6; flour, 8 ozs. ; milk, 1 cupful; yeast, 1 
teaspoonful : 24 hours. 

PLAIN COMMON FRITTERS. 

Mix with three well-beaten eggs a quarter-pint of milk, and strain 
them through a fine sieve: add them gradually to three large table- 
spoonsful of flour, and thin the batter with as much more milk as will 
bring it to the consistency of cream ; beat it up thoroughly at the mo- 
ment of using it, that the fritters may be light. Drop it in small por- 
tions from a spouted jug or basin into boiling lard ; when lightly coloured 
on one side, turn thern, drain them well from the lard as they are lifted 
out, and serve them very quickly. They are eaten generally with fine 
sugar, and orange or lemon juice : the first of these may be sifted thickly 
over them after they are dished, the oranges or lemons cut in two, and 
sent to table with them. The lard used for frying them should be fresh 
and pure-flavoured: it renders them more crisp and light than butter, 
and is, therefore, better suited to the purpose. 

Eggs, 3; flour, 3 tablespoon sful ; milk, £ to ^ pint. 

PANCAKES. 

These may be made with the same batter as fritters, if it be suffi- 
ciently thinned with an additional egg or two, or a little milk or cream, 
to spread quickly over the pan : to fry them well, this ought to be small. 
When the batter is ready, heat the pan over a clear fire and rub it with 
butter in every part, then pour in sufficient batter to spread over it 
entirely, and let the pancake be very thin: in this case it will require 
no turning, but otherwise it must be tossed over with a sudden jerk of 
the pan, in which the cook who is not somewhat expert will not always 
succeed ; therefore the safer plan is to make them so thin that they will 
not require this. Keep thern hot before the fire until a sufficient num- 
ber are ready to send to table, then proceed with ,a second supply, as 
they should always be quickly served. Either roll them up and strew 
fine sugar over them, or spread them quickly with preserve, laying 
them one on the other. A richer kind of pancake may be made with a 
pint of cream, or of cream and new milk mixed, five eggs, or their 
yolks only, a couple of ounces of flour, a little pounded cinnamon or 
lemon-rind rasped on sugar and scraped into them, with two ounces 
more of pounded sugar, and two ounces of clarified butter. 

From 4 to 5 minutes. 



CHAP. XIX.] SOUFFLES, OMLETS, &C. 299 

FRITTERS OF CAKE AND PUDDING. 

Cut plain pound, or rice cake into small square slices haJf an inch 
thick ; trim away the crust, fry them slowly a light brown, in a small 
quantity of fresh butter, and spread over them when done a layer of 
apricot-jam, or of any other preserve, and serve them immediately. 
These fritters are improved by being 1 moistened with a little good cream 
before they are fried : they must then be slightly floured. Cold plum- 
pudding- sliced down as thick as the cake, and divided into portions of 
equal size and good form, then dipped into batter, and gently fried, will 
also make an agreeable variety of fritter. 

MINCEMEAT FRITTERS. 

With half a pound of mincemeat mix two ounces of fine bread-crumbs 
(or a tablespoonful of flour), two eggs well beaten, and the strained juice 
of half a small lemon. Mix these well, and drop the fritters with a 
dessertspoon into plenty of very pure lard or fresh butter ; fry them from 
seven to eight minutes, drain them on a napkin or on white blotting 
paper, and send them very hot to table : they should be quite small. 

Mincemeat, ^ lb. ; bread-crumbs, 2 ozs. (or flour, 1 tablespoonful) ; 
eggs, 2; juice of ^ lemon: 7 to 8 minutes. 

Venetian fritters. ( Very good.) 
Pick, wash, and drain three ounces of whole rice, put it into a full 
pint of cold milk, and bring it very slowly to boil; stir it often, and let 
it simmer gently until quite thick and dry. When about three parts 
done, add to it two ounces of pounded sugar, and one of fresh butter, a 
grain of salt, and the grated rind of half a small lemon. Let it cool in 
the saucepan, and when only just warm mix with it thoroughly three 
ounces of currants, four apples, chopped fine, a teaspoonful of flour, and 
three large or four small well-beaten eggs. Drop the mixture in small 
fritters, fry them in butter from five to seven minutes, and let them 
become quite firm on one side before they are turned : do this with a 
slice. Drain them as they are taken up, and sift white sugar over 
them after they are dished. 

Whole rice, 3 ozs.; milk, lpint; sugar, 2 ozs. ; butter, 1 oz. ; grated 
rind of \ lemon ; currants, 3 ozs. ; minced apples, 4 ozs. ; flour, 1 
teaspoonful ; a little salt ; eggs, 3 large or 4 small ; 5 to 7 minutes. 

FRITTERS OF SPRING FRUIT. 

The rhubarb for these should be of a good sort, quickly grown, and 
tender. Pare, cut it into equal lengths, and throw it into the French 
batter of page 113 ; with a fork lift the stalks separately, and put them 
into a pan of boiling lard or butter : in from five to six minutes they 
will be done. Drain them well and dish them on a napkin, or pile them 
high without one, and strew sifted sugar plentifully over them : they 
should be of a very light brown, and quite dry and crisp. The young 
stalks look well when left in their entire length, and only slightly en- 
crusted with the batter, through which they should be merely drawn. 

5 to 6 minutes. 

APPLE, PEACH, APRICOT, OR ORANGE FRITTERS. 

Pare and core without dividing the apples, slice them in rounds the 
full size of the fruit, dip them into the same batter as that directed foi 



300 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XIX. 

the preceding fritters; fry them a pale brown, and let them be very- 
dry. Serve them heaped high upon a folded napkin, and strew sifted 
sugar over them. After having stripped the outer rind from the oranges, 
remove carefully the white inner skin, and in slicing them take out 
the pips ; then dip them into the batter and proceed as for the apple 
fritters. The peaches and apricots should be merely skinned, halved, 
and stoned before they are drawn through the batter, unless they should 
not be fully ripe, when they must first be stewed tender in a thin syrup. 
8 to 12 minutes. 

POTATO FRITTERS. (ENTREMETS.) 

See directions for potato puddings. The same mixture dropped in 
fritters into boiling butter, and fried until firm on both sides, will be 
found very good. 

LEMON FRITTERS. (ENTREMETS.) 

Mix with six ounces of very fine bread-crumbs four of beef suet, 
minced as small as possible, four ounces of pounded sugar, a small table- 
spoonful of flour, four whole eggs, well and lightly whisked, and the 
grated rind of one large or of two small lemons, with half or the whole 
of the juice, at choice ; but before this last is stirred in, add a spoonful 
or two of milk or cream, if needed. Fry the mixture in small fritters 
for five or six minutes. 

CANNELONS. (ENTREMETS.) 

Roll out very thin and evenly some fine puff-paste into a long strip of 
from three to four inches wide, moisten the surface with a feather dipped 
in white of egg, and cut it into bands of nearly two inches wide ; lay 
some apricot or peach marmalade equally along these, and fold the paste 
twice over it, close the ends carefully, and when all are ready slide 
them gently into a pan of boiling lard ; * as soon as they begin to brown, 
raise the pan from the fire that they may not take too much colour be- 
fore the paste is done quite through. Five minutes will fry them. 
Drain them well, and dry them on a soft cloth before the fire ; dish 
them on a napkin, and place one layer crossing another, or merely pile 
them high in the centre. If well made, and served of a light brown 
and very dry, these cannelons are excellent : when lard is objected to 
butter may be used instead, but the paste will then be somewhat less 
light. Only lard of the purest quality will answ T er for the purpose. 

5 minutes. 

CROQUETTES OF RICE. (ENTREMETS.) 

Wipe very clean, in a dry cloth, seven ounces of rice, put it into a 
clean stewpan, and pour on it a quart of new milk ; let it swell gently 
by the side of the fire, and stir it often that it may not stick to the pan, 
nor burn ; when it is about half done, stir to it five ounces of pounded 
sugar, and six bitter almonds beaten extremely fine : the thin rind of 
half a fresh lemon may be added in the first instance. The rice must 
be simmered until it is soft, and very thick and dry ; it should then be 
spread on a dish, and left until cold, when it is to be rolled into small 
balls, which must be dipped into beaten egg, and then covered in every 
part with the finest bread-crumbs. When all are ready, fry them a 

* Cannelons may be either baked or fried: if sent to the oven, they may first be glazed 
with white of egg and sugar. 



CHAP. XIX.] SOUFFLES, OMLETS, &C. 301 

light brown in fresh butter, and dry them well before the fire, upon a 
sieve reversed and covered with a very soft cloth, or with a sheet of 
white blotting-paper. Pile them in a hot dish, and send them to table 
quickly. 

Rice, 7 ozs. ; milk, 1 quart; rind of lemon: J hour. Sugar, 5 ozs. ; 
bitter almonds, 6 : 40 to 60 minutes, or more. Fried, 5 to 7 minutes. 

FINER CROQUETTES OF RICE. (ENTREMETS.) 

Swell the rice in thin cream, or in new milk strongly flavoured 
with cocoa-nut; then add the same ingredients as in the foregoing 
receipt, and when the rice is cold, form it into balls, and with the thumb 
of the right hand hollow them sufficiently to admit in the centre a 
small portion of peach jam, or of apricot marmalade ; close the rice 
well over it; egg, crumb, and fry the croquettes as usual. As, from 
the difference of quality, the same proportions of rice and milk will not 
always produce the same effect, the cook must use her discretion in 
adding, should it be needed, sufficient liquid to soften the rice perfectly : 
but she must bear in mind that if not boiled extremely thick and dry, it 
will be difficult to make it into croquettes. 

RISSOLES. (ENTREE.) 

This is the French name for small fried pastry of various forms, filled 
with meat or fish previously cooked ; they may be made with brioche, or 
with light puff-paste, either of which must be rolled extremely thin. 
Cut it with a small round cutter fluted or plain ; put a little rich mince, 
or good pounded meat, in the centre, and moisten the edges, and press 
them securely together that they may not burst open in the frying. 
The rissoles may be formed like small patties, by laying a second round 
of paste over the meat; or like cannelons ; they may, likewise, be 
brushed with egg, and sprinkled with vermicelli, broken small, or with 
fine crumbs. They are sometimes made in the form of croquettes, the 
paste being gathered round the meat, which must form a ball. 

In frying them, adopt the same plan as for the croquettes, raising the 
pan as soon as the paste is lightly coloured. Serve all these fried dishes 
well drained, and on a napkin. 

From 5 to 7 minutes, or less. 

VERY SAVOURY RISSOLES. (ENTREE.) 

Make the forcemeat No. 1, page 122, sufficiently firm with unbeaten 
yolk of egg, to roll rather thin on a well-floured board ; cut it into very 
small rounds, put a little pounded chicken in the centre of one half, 
moistening the ed^es with water, or white of egg, lay the remaining 
rounds over these, close them securely, and fry them in butter a fine 
light brown ; drain and dry them well, and heap them in the middle of 
a hot dish, upon a napkin folded flat: these rissoles may be egged and 
crumbed before they are fried. 

RISSOLES OF FISH. (ENTREE.) 

Take perfectly cjear from bones and skin, the flesh of any cold fish 
that can be pounded to an exceedingly fine paste ; add to it, when in 
the mortar, from one quarter to a third as much of good butter, and a 
high seasoning of cayenne, with a moderate one of mace and nutmeg. 
To these may be added, at pleasure, a few shrimps, or a little of any of 



:j02 modern cookery. [chap. XIX 

the finer fish sauces, or some lobster-coral. When the whole is well 
beaten and blended together, roll out some good pufi-paste extremely 
thin, and with a small round tin shape, cat out the number of rissoles 
required ; put some of the fish into each of these, moisten the edges 
with white of egg, fold and press them securely together, and when all 
are ready, slip them gently into a pan of boiling lard or butter; fry them 
a pale brown, drain them well, and dry them on white blotting-paper, 
laid upon a sieve, reversed; but do not place them sufficiently near to 
scorch or to colour them. 

TO BOIL PIPE MACCARONI. 

We have found always the continental mode of dressing maccaroni the 
best. English cooks sometimes soak it in milk and water for an hour 
or more, before it is boiled, that the pipes may be swollen to the utmost, 
but this is apt to render it pulpy, though its appearance may be im- 
proved by it. Drop it lightly, and by degrees, into a large pan of fast- 
boiling water, into which a little salt, and a bit of butter the size of a 
walnut, have previously been thrown, and of which the boiling should 
not be stopped by the addition of the maccaroni. In from three quar- 
ters of an hour to an hour this will be sufficiently tender ; it should 
always be perfectly so, as it is otherwise indigestible, though the pipes 
should remain entire. Pour it into a large cullender, and drain the 
water well from it. It should be very softly boiled after the first minute 
or two. 

| to 1 hour. 

RIBBAND MACCARONI. 

This is dressed in precisely the same manner as the pipe maccaroni, 
but requires only from fourteen to sixteen minutes' boiling in water, 
and twenty or more in broth or stock. 

DRESSED MACCARONI. 

Four ounces of pipe maccaroni is sufficient for a small dish, but from 
six to eight should be prepared for a family party where it is liked. 
The common English mode of dressing it is with grated cheese, butter, 
and cream, or milk. French cooks substitute generally a spoonful or 
two of very strong rich jellied gravy for the cream; and the Italians, 
amongst their many other modes of serving it, toss it in rich brown 
gravy, with sufficient grated cheese to flavour the whole strongly ; they 
send it to table also simply laid into a good Espagnole or brown gravy 
(that drawn from the stufato, for example), accompanied by a plate of 
grated cheese. Another, and an easy mode of dressing it is to boil and 
drain it well, and to put it into a deep dish, strewing grated cheese on 
every layer, and adding bits of fresh butter to it. The top, in this case, 
should be covered with a layer of fine bread-crumbs, mixed with grated 
cheese; these should be moistened plentifully with clarified butter, and 
colour given to them in the oven, or before the fire; the crumbs maybe 
omitted, and a layer of cheese substituted for them. An excellent pre- 
paration of maccaroni may be made with any well-flavoured, dry white 
cheese, which can be grated easily, at much less cost than with the Par- 
mesan, which is expensive, and in the country not always procurable 
even ; we think that the rich brown gravy is also a great advantage to 
die dish, which is further improved by a tolerably high seasoning of 



CHAP. XIX.] SOUFFLES, OMLETS, &C. 303 

cayenne. These, however, are innovations on the usual modes of serv- 
ing- it in England. 

After it has been boiled quite tender, drain it well, dissolve from two 
to three ounces of good butter in a clean stewpan, with a few spoonsful 
of rich cream, or of white sauce, lay in part of the maccaroni, strew 
part of the cheese upon it, add the remainder of the maccaroni and the 
cheese, and toss the whole gently until the ingredients are well incor- 
porated, and adhere to the maccaroni, leaving- no liquid perceptible : 
serve it immediately. 

Maccaroni, 6 ozs. ; butter, 3 ozs. ; Parmesan cheese, 6 ozs. ; cream, 
4 tablespoonsful. 

Obs. — If preferred so, cheese may be strewed thickly over the mac- 
caroni after it is dished, and just melted and browned with a salamander. 

MACCARONI A LA REINE. 

This is a very excellent and delicate mode of dressing maccaroni. 
Boil eight ounces in the usual way (see page 302), and by the time it is 
sufficiently tender, dissolve gently ten ounces of any rich, well-flavoured 
white cheese in full three quarters of a pint of good cream ; add a little 
salt, a rather full seasoning of cayenne, from half to a whole saltspoon- 
ful of pounded mace, and a couple of ounces of sweet fresh butter. 
The cheese should, in the first instance, be sliced very thin, and .taken 
quite free of the hard part adjoining the rind ; it should be stirred in the 
cream without intermission until it is entirely dissolved, and the whole 
is perfectly smooth : the maccaroni, previously well-drained, may then 
be tossed gently in it, or after it is dished, the cheese may be poured 
equally over the maccaroni. The whole, in either case, may be thickly 
covered before it is sent to table, with fine crumbs of bread fried of a 
pale gold colour, and dried perfectly, either before the fire or in an oven, 
when such an addition is considered an improvement. As a matter of 
precaution, it is better to boil the cream before the cheese is melted 
in it; rich white sauce, or bechamel, made not very thick, with an 
additional ounce or two of butter, may be used to vary and enrich this 
preparation. If Parmesan cheese* be used for it, it must of course be 
grated. Half the quantity may be served. 

Maccaroni, \ lb. ; cheese, 10 ozs. ; good cream, § pint (or rich white 
sauce) ; butter, 2 ozs. (or more) ; little salt, fine cayenne, and mace. 

FORCED EGGS FOR SALAD. 

Boil six fresh eggs for twelve minutes, and when they are perfectly 
cold, halve them lengthwise, take out the yolks, pound them to a paste 
with a third of their volume of fresh butter; then add a quarter tea- 
spoonful of mace, and as much cayenne as will season the mixture well ; 
beat these together thoroughly, and fill the whites of egg neatly with 
them. A morsel of garlic, not larger than a pea, perfectly blended with the 
other ingredients, would to some tastes greatly improve this preparation. 

Eggs, 6; butter, size of 2 yolks; mace, ^ teaspoonful; cayenne, third 
as much. 

FORCED- EGGS, OR EGGS EN SURPRISE. (ENTREMETS.) 

Boil, and divide, as in the receipt above, half a dozen very fresh eggs; 

* The Parmesan being apt to gather into lumps, instead of mingling smoothly with 
the liquid, hart better be avoided for this dish. 



304 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XX. 

pound the yolks perfectly, first by themselves, then with three ounces 
of good butter, a seasoning of salt, cayenne, and nutmeg, or mace, a 
large teaspoon ful or more of minced parsley, and the yolks of two raw 
eggs. Slice a small bit off the whites to make them stand flat, hollow 
the insides well, fill them smoothly with the yolks, form a small dome 
in the centre of the dish with the remainder of the mixture, and lean 
the eggs against it, placing them regularly round. Set them into a 
gentle oven for ten minutes,* and send them quickly to table. 



CHAPTER XX. 
SWEET DISHES, OR ENTREMETS. 

TO PREPARE CALF'S FEET STOCK.f 

The feet are usually sent in from the butcher's ready to dress, but as 
a matter of economy J or of convenience it is sometimes desirable to 
have them altogether prepared by the cook. Dip them into cold water, 
lay them into a deep pan, and sprinkle equally over them on both sides 
some rosin in fine powder ; pour in as much boiling water as will cover 
them well, and let them remain for a minute or two untouched ; then 
scrape the hair clean from them with the edge of a knife. When this 
is done, wash them very thoroughly both in hot and in cold water ; di- 
vide them at the joint, split the claws, and take away the fat that is 
between them. Should the feet be large, put a gallon of cold water to 
the four, but from a pint to a quart less if they be of moderate size or 
small. Boil them gently down until the flesh has parted entirely from 
the bones, and the liquor is reduced nearly or quite half; strain, and let 
it stand until cold ; remove every particle of fat from the top before it 
is used, and be careful not to take the sediment. 

Calf's feet, (large) 4 ; water, 1 gallon : 6 to 7 hours. 

TO CLARIFY CALF'S FEET STOCK. 

Break up a quart of the stock, put it into a clean stewpan with the 
whites of five large or of six small eggs, two ounces of sugar, and the 
strained juice of a small lemon; place it over a gentle fire, and do not 
stir it after the scum begins to form ; when it has boiled five or six mi- 
nutes, if the liquid part be clear, turn it into a jelly-bag, and pass it 
through a second time should it not be perfectly transparent the first. 
To consumptive patients, and others requiring restoratives, but forbidden 
to take stimulants, the jelly thus prepared is often very acceptable, and 
may be taken with impunity, when it would be highly injurious made 
with wine. More white of egg is required to clarify it than when sugai 
and acid are used in large quantities, as both of these assist the process. 
For blamange omit the lemon-juice, and mix with the clarified stock an 

* Half of one of the raw egg-yolks may be omitted, and a spoonful of rich cream used 
instead ; the esrgs can also he steamed until the insides are firm, by placing them with 
a little good gravy, or white sauce, in a stewpan, and simmering them gently from 
fifteen to twenty minutes. 

t For fuller and better directions for this, see page 160, Chapter IX. 

I They are sold at a much lower price when not cleared from the hair. 



CHAP. XX.] SWEET DISHES. 005 

equal proportion of cream (for an invalid new milk), with the usual 
flavouring-, and weight of sugar; or pour the boiling- stock very gradu- 
ally to some finely pounded almonds, and express it from them as 
directed for Quince Blamange, allowing- from six to eight ounces to the 
pint. 

Stock, 1 quart ; whites of eggs, 5 ; sugar, 2 ozs. ; juice, 1 small lemon : 
5 to 8 minutes. 

TO CLARIFY ISINGLASS. 

The finely-cut purified isinglass, which is now in general use, re- 
quires no clarifying except for clear jellies : for all other dishes it is 
sufficient to dissolve, skim, and pass it through a muslin strainer. 
When two ounces are required for a dish, put two and a half into a 
delicately clean pan, and pour on it a pint of spring water which has 
been gradually mixed with a teaspoonful of beaten white of ego - ; stir 
these thoroughly together, and let them heat slowly by the side of a 
gentle fire, but do not allow the isinglass to stick to the pan. When 
the scum is well risen, which it will be after two or three minutes' sim- 
mering, clear it off, and continue the skimming until no more appears, 
then, should the quantity of liquid be more than is needed, reduce it by 
quick boiling to the proper point, strain it through a thin muslin, and 
set it by for use : it will be perfectly transparent, and may be mixed 
lukewarm with the clear and ready sweetened juice of various fruits, or 
used with the necessary proportion of syrup, for jellies flavoured with 
choice liquors. As the clarifying reduces the strength of the isinglass, — 
or rather as a portion of it is taken up by the white egg-, — an additional 
quarter to each ounce must be allowed for this: if the scum be laid to 
drain on the back of a fine sieve which has been wetted with hot water, 
a little very strong jelly will drip from it. 

Isinglass, 2^ ozs. ; water, 1 pint; beaten white of egg, 1 teaspoonful. 

SPINACH GREEN, FOR COLOURING SWEET DISHES, CONFECTIONARY, 
OR SOUPS. 

Pound quite to a pulp, in a marble or wedgewood mortar, a handful 
or two of young freshly-gathered spinach, then throw it into a hair- 
sieve, and press through all the juice that can be obtained from it; pour 
this into a clean white jar, and place it in a pan of water that is at the 
point of boiling, and which must be allowed to just simmer afterwards; 
in three or four minutes the juice will be poached or set ; take it then 
gently with a spoon, and lay it upon the back of a fine sieve to drain. 
If wanted for immediate use, merely mix it in the mortar with some 
finely-powdered sugar;* but if to be kept as a store, pound it with as 
much as will render the whole tolerably dry, boil it to candy-height 
over a very clear fire, pour it out in cakes, and keep them in a tin 
box or canister. For this last preparation consult the receipt for orange- 
flower candy. 

PREPARED APPLE, OR QUINCE JUICE. 

Pour into a clean earthen pan two quarts of spring water, and throw, 
into it as quickly as they can be pared, cored, and weighed, four pounds 
of nonsuches, pippins, or any other good boiling apples of fine flavour 
When all are done stew them gently until they are well broken, but 

* For soup, dilute it first with a little of the boiling stock, and stir it to the remainder 

19 



306 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XX. 

not reduced quite to pulp; turn them into a jelly-bag or strain the juice 
from them without pressure through a closely-woven cloth, which should 
be gathered over the fruit, and tied, and suspended above a deep pan 
until the juice ceases to drop from it : this, if not very clear, must be 
rendered so before it is used for syrup or jelly, but for all other purposes 
once straining it will be sufficient. Quinces are prepared in the same 
way, and with the same proportions of fruit and watei. but they must 
not be too long boiled, or the juice will become red. We have found it 
answer well to have them simmered until they are perfectly tender, 
and then to leave them with their liquor in a bowl until the following 
day, when the juice will be rich and clear. They should be thrown 
into the water very quickly after they are pared and weighed, as the 
air will soon discolour them. 

Water, 2 quarts; apples, or quinces, 4 lbs. 

cocoa-nut flavoured milk. {For sweet dishes, <$"C.) 
Pare the dark outer rind from a very fresh nut, and grate it on a fine 
and exceedingly clean grater ; to every three ounces pour a quart of 
new milk, and simmer them very soflly for three quarters of an hour, or 
more, that a full flavour of the nut may be imparted to the milk with- 
out its being much reduced; strain it through a fine sieve, or cloth, 
with sufficient pressure to leave the nut almost dry : it may then be used 
for blamange, custards, rice, and other puddings, light cakes and bread. 
To each quart new milk, 3 ozs. grated cocoa-nut: £ to 1 hour. 
Obs. — The milk of the nut, when perfectly sweet and good, may be 
added to the other with advantage. To obtain it, bore one end of the 
shell with a gimlet, and catch the liquid in a cup; and to extricate the 
kernel, break the shell with a hammer : this is better than sawing it 
asunder. 

COMPOTES OF FRUIT. 

We would particularly invite the attention of the reader to these 
wholesome and agreeable preparations of fruit, which are much less 
served at English tables, generally, than they deserve to be. We have 
found them often peculiarly acceptable to persons of delicate habit who 
were forbidden to partake of pastry in any form; and accompanied by a 
dish of boiled rice, they are very preferable for children, as well as for 
invalids, to either tarts or puddings. 

Compote of spring fruit. — (Rhubarb.) Take a pound of the stalks 
after they are pared, and cut them into short lengths , have ready a 
quarter-pint of water boiled gently for ten minutes with five ounces of 
sugar, or with six should the fruit be very acid; put it in, and simmer 
it for about ten minutes. Some kinds will be tender in rather less 
time, some will require more. 

Obs. — Good sugar in lumps should be used generally for these dishes, 
and when they are intended for dessert the syrup should be enriched 
with an additional ounce or two. Lisbon sugar will answer for them 
very well on ordinary occasions, but that which is refined will render 
them much more delicate. 

Compote of green currants. — Spring water half pint; sugar five 
ounces; boiled together ten minutes. One pint of green currants strip- 
ped from the stalks; simmered three to five minutes. 

Compote of green gooselierriea.- — This is an excellent, compote if made 



CHAP. XX.] SWEET DISHES. 307 

with fine sugar, and very good with any kind. Break five ounces into 
small lumps and pour on them halt" a pint of water ; boil these gently for 
ten minutes, and clear off all the scum; then add to them a pint of fresh 
gooseberries freed from the tops and stalks, washed, and well drained. 
Simmer them gently from eight to ten minutes, and serve them hot or 
cold. Increase the quantity tor a large dish. 

Compote of green apricots. — Wipe the down from a pound of quite 
young apricots, and stew them very gently for nearly twenty minutes in 
Kyrup made with eight ounces of sugar and three quarters of a pint of 
water, boiled together the usual time. 

Compote of red currants. — A quarter-pint of water and five ounces 
of sugar : ten minutes. One pint of ready picked currants to be just 
simmered in the syrup from five to six minutes. This receipt will serve 
equally for raspberries, or for a compote of the two fruits mixed toge- 
ther. Either of them will be found an admirable accompaniment to 
batter, custard, bread, ground rice, and various other kinds of puddings, 
as well as to whole rice plainly boiled. 

Compote of cherries. — Simmer five ounces of sugar with half a pint 
of water for ten minutes; throw into the syrup a pound of cherries 
weighed after they are stalked, and let them stew gently for twenty 
minutes ; it is a great improvement to stone the fruit, but a larger 
quantity will then be required for a dish. 

Compote of Morella Cherries. — Boil together for fifteen minutes, five 
ounces of sugar with half a pint of water: add a pound and a quarter 
of ripe Morella cherries, and simmer them very softly from five to seven 
minutes ; this is a delicious compote. 

Compote of Damsons. — Four ounces of sugar and half a pint of 
water to be boiled for ten minutes ; one pound of damsons to be added, 
and simmered gently from ten to twelve minutes. 

Compote of the Magnum Bonum, or other large plums. — Boil six 
ounces of sugar with half a pint of water the usual time ; take the 
stalks from a pound of plums, and simmer them very softly for twenty 
minutes. Increase the proportion of sugar if needed, and regulate the 
time as may be necessary for the different varieties of fruit. 

Compote of hullaces. — The large, or shepherds' bullace, is very good 
stewed, but will require a considerable quantity of sugar to render it 
palatable, unless it be quite ripe. Make a syrup with eight ounces, and 
three-quarters of a pint of water, and boil in it gently from fifteen to 
twenty minutes, a pint and a half of the bullaces freed from their stalks. 

COMPOTE OF PEACHES. 

Pare half a dozen ripe peaches, and stew them very softly from eigh- 
teen to twenty minutes, keeping them often turned in a light syrup, 
made with five ounces of sugar, and half a pint of water boiled together 
for ten minutes. Dish the fruit ; reduce the syrup by quick boiling, 
pour it over the peaches, and serve them hot for a second-course dish, or 
>cold for dessert. They should be quite ripe, and will be found delicious 
dressed thus. A little lemon-juice may be added to the syrup, and the 
blanched kernels of two or three peach or apricot stones. 

Sugar, 5 ozs. ; water, ^ pint: 10 minutes. Peaches, 6: 18 to 20 
minutes. 

Obs. — Nectarines, without being pared, may be dressed in the same 



808 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XX. 

way, but will require to be stewed somewhat longer, unless they be 
perfectly ripe. 

ANOTHER RECEIPT FOR STEWED PEACHES. 

Should the fruit be not perfectly ripe, throw it into boiling' water and 
keep it just simmering, until the skin can be easily stripped off. Have 
ready hall' a pound of fine sugar boiled to a light syrup with three 
quarters of a pint of water; throw in the peaches, let them stew softly 
until quite tender, and tarn them often that they may be equally done ; 
after they are dished, add a little strained lemon-juice to the syrup, and 
reduce it by a few minutes' very quick boiling. The fruit is sometimes 
pared, divided, and stoned, then gently stewed' until it is tender. 

Sugar, 8 ozs. ; water, ^ pint: 10 to 12 minutes. Peaches, 6 or 7; 
lemon-juice, 1 large teaspoonful. 

STEWED BARBERRIES, OR COMPOTE D'EPINE-VINETTE. 

Boil to a thin syrup half a pound of sugar and three quarters of a pint 
of water, skim it well, and throw into it three quarters of a pound of 
barberries stripped from the stalks ; keep them pressed down into the 
syrup, and gently stirred : from five to seven minutes will boil them. 

Sugar, 8 ozs. ; water, f pint : 12 to 15 minutes. Barberries, ^ lb. : 
5 to 7 minutes. 

ANOTHER COMPOTE OF BARBERRIES FOR DESSERT. 

When this fruit is first ripe it requires, from its excessive acidity, 
nearly its weight of sugar to render it palatable; but after hanging 
some time upon the trees it becomes much mellowed in flavour, and 
may be sufficiently sweetened with a smaller proportion. According 
to the state of the fruit then, take for each pound (leaving it in bunches) 
from twelve to sixteen ounces of sugar, and boil it with three quarters 
of a pint of water until it forms a syrup. Throw in the bunches of 
fruit, and simmer them for five or six minutes. If their weight of sugar 
be used, they will become in that time perfectly transparent. As all 
vessels of tin affect the colour of the barberries, they should be boiled in 
a copper stewpan, or in a German enamelled one, which would be far 
better. 

Barberries, 1 lb. ; sugar, 12 to 16 ozs. ; water, f pint: fruit simmered 
in syrup, 5 to 6 minutes. 

GATEAU DE POMMES. 

Boil together for fifteen minutes a pound of well-refined sugar and 
half a pint of water; then add a couple of pounds of nonsuches, or of 
any other finely-flavoured apples which can be boiled easily to a smooth 
pulp, and the juice of a couple of small, or of one very large lemon. 
Stew these gently until the mixture is perfectly free from lumps, then 
boil it quickly, keeping it stirred, without quitting it, until it forms a 
very thick and dry marmalade. A few minutes before it is done add 
the finely grated rinds of a couple of lemons; when it leaves the bottom 
of the preserving-pan visible and dry, press it into moulds of tasteful 
form ; and either store it for winter use, or if wanted for table, serve it 
plain for dessert, or ornament it with spikes of blanched almonds, and 
pour a custard round it for a second-course dish. 

Sugar, lib. ; water, \ pint: 15 minutes. Nonsuches or other apples, 
2 lbs. ; juice, 1 large or 2 small lemons : 2 hours or more. 



CHAP. XX.] SWEET DISHES. 3QQ 

GATEAU OF MIXED FRUITS. (GOOD.) 

Extract the juice from some fresh red currants by simmering them 
very gently for a few minutes over a slow fire; strain it through a 
folded muslin, and to one pound of it 'add a pound and a half of°non- 
?u> ?? °^f freshly g -athered a PP les > pared, and rather deeply cored, 
that the fibrous part of the apple may be avoided. Boil these quite 
slowly until the mixture is perfectly smooth, then, to evaporate part of 
the moisture, let the boiling be quickened. In from twenty-five to 
thirty minutes draw the pan from the fire, and throw in gradually a 
pound and a quarter of sugar in fine powder; mix it well with the fruit 
and when it is dissolved continue the boiling rapidly for twenty minutes 
longer, keeping the mixture constantly stirred ; put it into a mould, and 
store it, when cold, tor winter use, or serve it for dessert, or for the 
second course : in the latter case decorate it with spikes of almonds 
blanched and heap solid whipped cream round it, or pour a custard 
into the dish. For dessert, it may be garnished with dice of the palest 
apple-jelly. F 

Juice of red currants, 1 lb. ; apples (pared and cored), 1* lb.: 25 to 
30 minutes. Sugar, l£ lb. : 20 minutes. 

Obs.—A portion of raspberries, if still in season, may be mixed with 
the currants for this gateau, should their flavour be liked. 

JELLIES. 
calf's feet jelly, (entremets.) 
We hear inexperienced housekeepers frequently complain of the dif- 
ficulty of rendering this jelly perfectly transparent; but, by mixing 
with the other ingredients, while quite cold, the whites, and the crushed 
shells of a sufficient number of eggs, and allowing the head of scum 
which gathers on the jelly to remain undisturbed after it once forms, 
they will scarcely fail to obtain it clear. It should be strained through 
a thick flannel-bag of a conical form (placed before the fire, should the 
weather be at all cold, or the mixture will jelly before it has run 
through), and if not perfectly clear it must be strained again and again 
until it becomes so; though we generally find that once suffices. Mix 
thoroughly m a large stewpan five half-pints of strong calf's-feet stock 
(see page 304,) a full pint of sherry, half a pound of suo-ar, roughly 
powdered, the juice of two fine lemons, the rind of one and a halff cut 
very thin, the whites and shells of four large eggs, and half an ounce of 
isinglass. Let these remain a few minutes off the fire, that the sugai 
may dissolve more easily; then let the jelly be brought to boil oradu- 
ally, and do not stir it after it begins to heat. When it has boiled gen- 
tly sixteen minutes, draw it from the fire, and let it stand a short time 
before it is poured into the jelly-bag, under which a bowl should be 
placed to receive it. When clear and cool, put it into the moulds which 
have been laid for some hours in water : these should always be of 
earthenware in preference to metal. If to be served in glasses, or 
roughed, the jelly will be sufficiently firm without the isinglass, of 
which, however, we recommend a small quantity to be thrown in always 
when the jelly begins to boil, as it facilitates the clearing. 

Calf's feet stock, 2± pints; sugar, 4 lb.; sherry, l°pint; juice of 
lemons, 2 larae,- rind of 1£; whites and shells of eggs, 4 large, or 5 
email: 16 minutes. s 



310 MODERN COOKERY. [cHAP. XX. 

06s. 1. — After all the jelly has dropped through the bag, an exceed- 
ingly agreeable beverage may be obtained by pouring in some boiling 
water ; from one to three half-pints, according to the quantity of jejly 
which has been made. The same plan should be pursued in making 
orange or lemon jelly for an invalid. 

Of) S . 2. — As it is essential to the transparency of calf's-feet jelly of 
ail kinds that the whole of the ingredients should be quite cold when 
they are mixed, and as the stock can only be measured in a liquid state, 
to which it must be reduced by heating, the better plan is, to measure 
it when it is first strained from the feet, and to put apart the exact 
quantity required for a receipt; but when this has not been done, and it 
is necessary to liquefy it, it must be left until quite cold again before it 
is used. 

ANOTHER RECEIPT FOR CALF'S FEET JELLY. 

To four calf's feet, well cleaned and divided, pour a gallon of water, 
and let them stew until it is reduced to rather less than two quarts; or 
if, after the flesh has quite fallen from the bones, the liquor on being 
strained off should exceed that quantity, reduce it by rapid boiling in a 
clean uncovered pan over a very clear fire. When it is perfectly firm 
and cold, take it, clear of fat and sediment, and add to it a bottle of 
sherry, which should be of good quality (for poor, thin wines are not 
well adapted to the purpose), three quarters of a pound of sugar broken 
small, the juice of five large or of six moderate-sized lemons, and the 
whites, with the shells finely crushed, of seven eggs, or of more, 
should they be very small. The rinds of three lemons, pared exceed- 
ingly thin, may be thrown into the jelly a few minutes before it is taken 
from the fire ; or they may be put into the jelly-bag previously to its 
being poured through, when they will impart to it a slight and delicate 
flavour, without deepening its colour much. If it is to be moulded, 
something more than half an ounce of isinglass should be dropped 
lightly in° where the liquid becomes visible through the head of scum, 
when the mixture begins to boil ; for if not sufficiently firm, it will 
break when it is dished. It may be roughed, or served in glasses with- 
out this addition ; and in a liquid state will be found an admirable in- 
gredient for Oxford, or other punch. 

Calf's feet, 4; water, 1 gallon; to be reduced more than half. 
Sherry, 1 bottle; sugar, f lb. (more to taste); juice of 5 large lemons, 
or of six moderate-sized; whites and shells of 7 eggs, or more if small ; 
rinds of lemons, 3 (for moulding, nearly ^ oz. of isinglass) : 15 to 20 
minutes. 

Obs. — An excellent and wholesome jelly for young people may be 
made with good orange or raisin wine, instead of sherry ; to either of 
these the juice of three or four oranges, with a small portion of the 
rind, may be added instead of part of the lemons. 

APPLE calf's feet jelly. 
Pour a quart of prepared apple-juice (see page 305) on a pound of 
fresh apples pared and cored, and simmer them until they are well 
broken ; strain the juice, and let it stand until cold ; then measure, and 
put a pint and a half of it into a stewpan with a quart of calf's feet 
stock (see page 304), nine ounces of sugar broken small, or roughly 
pounded, the Juice of two line lemons, and the thin rinds of one and a 



CHAP. XX.] SWEET DISHES. 311 

half, with the whites and shells of eight eggs. Let it boil gently for 
ten minutes, then strain it through a flannel-bag, and when cool put it 
into moulds. It will be very clear, and firm, and of pleasant flavour. 
Apples of good quality should be used for it, and the quantity of sugar 
must be regulated by the time of year, as the fruit will have lost much 
of its acidity during the latter part of the season. This receipt, which 
is the result of our own experiment, and which we have found very suc- 
cessful, was first tried just after Christinas, with pippins. A little syrup 
of preserved ginger, or a small glass of fine white brandy, would per- 
haps, to some tastes, improve the jelly ; but we give it simply as we 
have had it proved ourselves. 

Prepared apple juice, 1 quart ; fresh apples, 1 lb. : h to | hour. 
Strained juice, \h pint; calf's feet stock, 1 quart; sugar, 9 ozs. ; juice 
of lemons, 2; rind of H; whites and shells of eggs, 8: 10 minutes. 

Obs. — We would recommend the substitution of quinces for apples 
in this receipt as likely to afford a very agreeable variety of the jelly : 
or equal portions of the two fruits might answer well. 

Unless the stock be very stifT, add isinglass to this, as to the calPs 
feet jelly, when it is to be moulded. 

ORANGE CALF'S FEET JELLY. 

To a pint and a half of firm calf's feet stock, put a pint of strained 
China orange-juice, mixed with that of one or two lemons; add to these 
six ounces of sugar, broken small, the very thin rinds of three oranges 
and of one lemon, and the whites of six eggs with half the shells crushed 
small. Stir these gently over a clear fire until the head of scum begins 
to form, but not at all afterwards. Simmer the jelly for ten minutes 
from the first full boil ; take it from the fire, let it stand a little, then 
pour it through a jelby-bag until perfectly clear. This is an original, 
and entirely new receipt, which we can recommend to the reader, the 
jelly being very pale, beautifully transparent, and delicate in flavour: 
it would, we think, be peculiarly acceptable to such invalids as are for- 
bidden to take wine in any form. 

The proportions both of sugar and of lemon-juice must be somewhat 
varied according to the season in which the oranges are used. 

Strong calf's feet stock, \h pint; strained orange-juice, mixed with 
a small portion of lemon-juice, 1 pint; sugar, 6 ozs.; rinds of oranges, 
3 ; of lemon, 1 : 10 minutes. 

Obs. — A small pinch of isinglass thrown into the jelly when it begins 
to boil will much assist to clear it. When the flavour of Seville oranges 
is liked, two or three can be used with the sweet ones. 

ORANGE ISINGLASS JELLY. 

To render this perfectly transparent the juice of the fruit must be 
filtered, and the isinglass clarified ; but it is not usual tc take so much 
trouble for it. Strain as clear as possible, first through a sieve or mus- 
lin, then through a thick cloth or jelly-bag, one quart of orange-juice, 
mixed with as much lemon-juice as will give an agreeable degree of 
acidity. Dissolve two ounces and a half of isinglass in a pint of water, 
skim it well, throw in half a pound of sugar, and a few strips of the 
orange-rind, pour in the orange-juice, stir the whole well together, skim 
it clean without allowing it to boil, strain it through a cloth or through 
a muslin, many times folded, and when nearly cold put it into the 




312 MODERN COOKERY. [ciIAI\ XX. 

moulds.* This jelly is sometimes made without any water, by dis- 
solving the isinglass and sugar in the juice of the fruit. 

Orange-juice, 1 quart; water, 1 pint; isinglass, 2i ozs. ; sugar, -| lb. 

ORANGES FILLED WITH JELLY. 

This is one of the fanciful dishes which make a pretty appearance on 
a supper table, and are acceptable when much variety is desired. Take 

some very fine oranges, and with 
the point of a small knife cut out 
from the top of each a round about 
the size of a shilling ; then with 
the small end of a tea or egg 
spoon, empty them entirely, taking 
great care not to break the rinds. 
Throw these into cold water, and 
make jelly of the juice, which 
must be well pressed from the 
pulp, and strained as clear as pos- 
sible. Colour one half a fine rose 
— colour with prepared cochineal, 
and leave the other very pale ; 
when it is nearly cold, drain and wipe the orange rinds, and fill them 
with alternate strioes of the two jellies ; when they are perfectly cold 
cut them in quarters, and dispose them tastefully in a dish with a few 
light branches of myrtle between them. Calf's feet or any other variety 
of jelly, or different blamanges, may be used at choice to fill the rinds: 
the colours, however, should conlrast as much as possible. 

LEMON CALF'S FEET JELLY. 

Break up a quart of strong calf's feet stock, which should have been 
measured while in a liquid state; let it be quite clear of fat and sedi- 
ment, for which a small additional quantity should be allowed ; add to 
it a not very full half-pint of strained lemon-juice, and ten ounces of 
sugar, broken small (rather more or less according to the state of the 
fruit), the rind of one lemon pared as thin as possible, or from two to 
three when a full flavour of it is liked, and the whites, with part of the 
shells crushed small, of five large or of six small eggs. Proceed as for 
the preceding- jellies, and when the mixture has boiled five minutes 
throw in a small pinch of isinglass ; continue the boiling for five or six 
minutes longer, draw the pan from the fire, let it stand to settle ; then 
turn it into the jelly-bag. We have found it always perfectly clear with 
once passing through ; but should it not be so, pour it in a second time. 

Strong calf's feet stock, 1 quart; strained lemon-juice, short \ pint; 
sugar, 10 ozs. (more or less according to state of fruit) ; rind of from 1 
to 3 large lemons ; whites and part of shells of 5 large or 6 small eggs : 
5 minutes. Pinch of isinglass: 5 minutes longer. 

Obs. — About seven large lemons will produce the half pint of juice. 
This quantity is for one mould only. The jelly will be found almost 
colourless unless much of the rinds be used, and as perfectly transparent 
as clear spring water : it is also very agreeable in flavour. For variety, 

* In Prance, orange-jelly is very commonly served in the halved rinds of the fruit, or 
in little baskets. . 



CHAP. XX.] SWEET DISHES. 313 

part of the juice of the fruit might be omitted, and its place supplied by 
maraschino, or any other rich white liquor of appropriate flavour. 

CONSTANTIA JELLY. 

Infuse in a pint of water for five minutes the rind of half a Seville 
orange, pared extremely thin ; add an ounce of isinglass; and when 
this is dissolved throw in four ounces of good sugar in Jumps; stir well, 
and simmer the whole for a few minutes, then mix with it four large 
wineglassesful of Constantia, and strain the jelly through a fine cloth 
of close texture ; let it settle and cool, then pour it gently from any 
sediment there may be, into a mould which has been laid for an hour or 
two into water. We had this jelly made in the first instance for an 
invalid who was forbidden to take acids, and it proved so agreeable in 
flavour that we can recommend it for the table. The isinglass, with an 
additional quarter ounce, might be clarified, and the sugar and orange- 
rind boiled with it afterwards. 

Water, 1 pint; rind £ Seville orange: 5 minutes. Isinglass, 1 oz. ; 
sugar, 4 ozs. : 5 to 7 minutes. Constantia, 4 large wineglassesful. 

STRAWBERRY ISINGLASS JELLY. 

A great variety of equally elegant and excellent jellies for the table 
may be made with clarified isinglass, clear syrup, and the juice of almost 
any kind of fresh fruit; but as the process of making them is nearly the 
same for all, we shall limit our receipts to one or two, which will serve 
to direct the makers for the rest. Boil together quickly for fifteen mi- 
nutes one pint of water and three quarters of a pound of very good sugar ; 
measure a quart of ripe richly-flavoured strawberries without their 
stalks ; the scarlet answer best from the colour which they give ; on 
these pour the boiling syrup, and let them stand all night. The next 
day clarify two ounces and a half of isinglass in a pint of water, as di- 
rected at the beginning of this chapter; drain the syrup from the straw- 
berries very closely, add to it two or three tablespoonsful of red currant 
juice, and the clear juice of one large or of two small lemons; and 
when the isinglass is nearly cold mix the whole, and put it into moulds. 
The French, who excel in these fruit- jellies, always mix the separate 
ingredients when they are almost cold ; and they also place them over 
ice for an hour or so after they are moulded, which is a great advantage, 
as they then require less isinglass, and are in consequence much more 
delicate. When the fruit abounds, instead of throwing it into the syrup, 
bruise lightly from three to four pints, throw two tablespoonsful of sugar 
over it, and let the juice flow from it for an hour or two; then pour a 
little water over, and use the juice without boiling, which will give a 
jelly of finer flavour than the other. 

Water, 1 pint ; sugar, ^ lb. : 15 minutes. Strawberries, 1 quart ; 
isinglass, 2^ ozs. ; water, 1 pint (white of egg 1 to 2 teaspoonsful) ; 
juice, 1 large or 2 small lemons. 

Obs. — The juice of any fruit mixed with sufficient sugar to sweeten, 
and of isinglass to stiffen it, with as much lemon-juice as will take off 
the insipidity of the flavour, will serve for this kind of jelly. Pine 
apples, peaches, and such other fruits as do not yield much juice, must 
*>e infused in a larger quantity of syrup, which must then be used in 
-leu of it. In this same manner jellies are made with various kinds of 



314 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XX. 

wine and liquors, and with the ingredients for punch as well; but we 
cannot further multiply our receipts for them. 

FANCY JELLIES. 

To give greater transparency of appearance to jelly, it is often made 
in a mould with a cylindrical tube in the centre. The space left in the 
centre is sometimes filled with very light, whipped cream, flavoured 
and coloured so as to eat agreeably with it, and to please the eye as 
well : this may be tastefulTy garnished with preserved, or with fresh 
fruit. Italian jelly is made by half filling a mould of this, or any of 
more convenient shape, and laying round upon it in a chain, as soon as 
it is set, some blamange made rather firm, and cut of equal thickness 
and size with a small round cutter ; the mould is then filled with the 
remainder of the jelly, which must be nearly cold, but not beginning 
to set. Brandied morella cherries, drained very dry, are sometimes 
dropped into moulds of pale jelly ; and fruits, either fresh or preserved, 
are arranged in them with exceedingly good effect when skilfully 
managed ; but this is best accomplished by having a mould for the pur- 
pose, with another of smaller size fixed in it by means of slight wires, 
which hook on to the edge of the outer one. By pouring water into 
this it may easily be detached from the jelly ; the fruit is then to be 
placed in the space left by it, and the whole filled up with more jelly: 
to give the proper effect, it must be recollected that the dish will be 
reversed when sent to table. 

queen mab's pudding ; (an elegant summer dish.) 
Throw into a pint of new milk the thin rind of a small lemon, and 
six or eight bitter almonds, blanched and bruised ; or substitute for 
these half a pod of vanilla, cut small, heat it slowly by the side of the 
fire, and keep it at the point of boiling until it is strongly flavoured, 
then add a small pinch of salt, and three quarters of an ounce of the 
finest isinglaes, or a full ounce should the weather be extremely warm ; 
when this is dissolved, strain the milk through a muslin, and put it into 
a clean saucepan, with four ounces and a half of sugar in lumps, and 
half a pint of rich cream ; give the whole one boil, and then stir it 
briskly and by degrees to the well-beaten yolks of six fresh eggs; next, 
thicken the mixture as a custard, over a gentle fire, but do not hazard 
its curdling; when it is of tolerable consistency, pour it out, and con- 
tinue the stirring until it is half cold, then mix with it an ounce and a 
half of candied citron, cut in small spikes, and a couple of ounces of 
dried cherries, and pour it into a mould rubbed with a drop of oil : 
when turned out it will have the appearance of a pudding. From two 
to three ounces of preserved ginger, well drained and sliced, may be 
substituted for the cherries, and an ounce of pistachio-nuts, blanched 
and split, for the citron ; these will make an elegant variety of the dish, 
and the syrup of the ginger, poured round as sauce, will be a further 
improvement. Currants steamed until tender, and candied orange or 
lemon-rind, are often usr-d instead of the cherries, and the well-sweet- 
ened juice of strawberries, raspberries (white or red), apricots, peaches, 
or syrup ot pine-apple, will make an agreeable sauce; a small quan- 
tity of this last will also give a delicious flavour to the pudding itself, 
when mixed with the other ingredients. Cream may be substituted 
entirely for the milk, when its richness is considered desirable. 



CHAP. XX.] SWEET DISHES. 315 

New milk, 1 pint, ; rind 1 small lemon ; bitter almonds, 6 to 8 (or, 
vanilla, ^ pod) ; salt, few grains ; isinglass, £ oz. (1 oz. in sultry wea- 
ther) ; sugar, k\ oz. ; cream, \ pint ; yolks, 6 eggs ; dried cherries, 2 ozs. ; 
candied citron, 1^ oz. ; (or preserved ginger, 2 to 3 ozs., and the syrup 
as sauce, and 1 oz. of blanched pistachio-nuts; or 4 ozs. currants, 
steamed 20 minutes, and 2 ozs. candied orange-rind). For sauce, 
sweetened juice of strawberries, raspberries, or plums, or pine-apple 
syrup. 

Obs. — The currants should be steamed in an earthen cullender, 
placed over a saucepan of boiling water, and covered with the lid. It 
will be a great improvement to place the pudding over ice for an hour 
before it is served. 

NESSELRODE CREAM. 

Shell and blanch twenty-four fine Spanish chestnuts, and put them 
with three quarters of a pint of water into a small and delicately clean 
saucepan. When they have simmered from six to eight minutes, add to 
them two ounces of fine sugar, and let them stew very gently until they 
are perfectly tender; then drain them from the water, pound them, 
while still warm, to a smooth paste, and press them through the back 
of a fine sieve. While this is being done, dissolve half an ounce of 
isinglass in two or three spoonsful of w 7 ater, and put to it as much cream 
as will, with the small quantity of water used, make half a pint ; two 
ounces of sugar, about the third of a pod of vanilla, cut small, and well 
bruised, and a strip or two of fresh lemon-rind, pared extremely thin. 
Give these a minute's boil, and then keep them quite hot by the side of 
the fire, until a strong flavour of the vanilla is obtained. Now, mix 
gradually with the chestnuts half a pint of rich, unboiled cream, strain 
the other half pint through a fine muslin, and work the whole well to- 
gether until it becomes very thick ; then stir to it a couple of ounces 
of dried cherries, cut into quarters, and two of candied citron, divided 
into very small dice. Press the mixture into a mould which has been 
rubbed with a particle of the purest salad-oil, and in a few hours it will 
be ready for table. The cream should be sufficiently stiff, when the 
fruit is added, to prevent its sinking to the bottom, and both kinds should 
be dry when they are used. 

Chestnuts, large, 24; water, 2. pint; sugar, 2 ozs. ; isinglass, ^ oz. ; 
water, 3 to 4 tablespoonsful; cream, nearly ^ pint; vanilla, ^ of pod ; 
lemon-rind, ^ of 1 large : infuse 20 minutes or more. Unboiled cream, 
^ pint; dried cherries, 2 ozs. ; candied citron, 2 ozs. 

Obs. — When vanilla cannot easily be obtained, a little noyeau may 
be substituted for it, but a full weight of isinglass must then be used. 
This receipt is entirely new, and our directions must be followed with 
exactness, should the reader wish to ensure its success. 

AX EXCELLENT TRIFLE. 

Take equal parts of wine and brandy, about a waneglassful of each, 
or two thirds of good sherry or Madeira, and one of spirit, and soak in 
the mixture tour sponge-biscuits, and half a pound of macaroons; cover 
the bottom of the trifle-dish witn part of these, and pour upon them a 
full pint of rich boiled custard made with three quarters of a pint, or 
rather more, of milk and cream taken in equal portions, and six eo-n-s ; 
and sweetened, flavoured and thickened by the receipt of page :V22 , 
lay the remainder of the soaked cakes upon it, and pile over the whole, 



316 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XX. 

to the depth of two or three inches, the whipped syllabub of page 319, 
previously well drained ; then sweeten and flavour slightly with wine 
only, less than half a pint of thin cream (or of cream and milk mixed) ; 
wash and wipe the whisk, and whip it to the lightest possible froth : 
take it off with a skimmer and heap it gently over the trifle. 

Macaroons, ^ lb. ; wir*e and brandy mixed, ^ pint ; rich boiled cus- 
tard, 1 pint; whipped syllabub (see page 318); light froth to cover the 
whole, short ^ pint of cream and milk mixed ; sugar, dessertspoonful ; 
wine, \ glassful. 

swiss cream, or trifle; {very good.) 

Flavour pleasantly with lemon-rind and cinnamon a pint of rich 
cream, after having taken from it as much as will mix smoothly to a 
thin batter four teaspoonsful of the finest flour ; sweeten it with six 
ounces of well-refined sugar, in lumps ; place it over a clear fire in a 
delicately clean saucepan, and when it boils stir in the flour, and sim- 
mer it for four or five minutes, stirring it gently without ceasing ; then 
pour it out, and when it is quite cold mix with it by degrees the strained 
juice of two moderate-sized and very fresh lemons. Take a quarter of 
a pound of macaroons, cover the bottom of a glass dish with a portion 
of them, pour in a part of the cream, lay the remainder of the maca- 
roons upon it, add the rest of the cream, and ornament it with candied 
citron, sliced thin. It should be made the day before it is wanted for 
table. The requisite flavour may be given to this dish by infusing in 
the cream the very thin rind of a lemon, and part of a stick of cinna- 
mon, slightly bruised, and then straining it before the flour is added ; or, 
these and the sugar may be boiled together, with two or three spoonsful 
of water, to a strongly flavoured syrup, which, after having been passed 
through a muslin strainer, may be stirred into the cream. Some cooks 
boil the cinnamon and the grated rind of a lemon with all the other 
ingredients, but the cream has then to be pressed through a sieve after 
it is made, a process which it is always desirable to avoid. 

Rich cream, 1 pint ; sugar, 6 ozs. ; rind, 1 lemon ; cinnamon, 1 
drachm; flour, 4 teaspoonsful; juice, 2 lemons; macaroons, 4 oss. , 
candied citron, 1 to 2 ozs. 




Chantilly Basket, 
FILLED WITH WHIPPED CREAM AND FRESH STRAWBERRIES. 

Take a mould of any sort that will serve to form the basket on, just 
dip the edge of some macaroons in melted barley sugar, and fasten the*A 



CHAP. XX.] SWEET DISHES. 317 

together with it; take it out of the mould, keep it in a dry place until 
wanted, then fill it high with whipped strawberry cream which has been 
drained on a sieve from the preceding day, and stick very fine ripe 
strawberries over it. It should not be filled until just before it is 
served. 

CREME MERINGUEE. 

Infuse in a pint of new milk the very thin rind of a lemon, with four 
or five bitter almonds bruised. As the quantity should not be reduced, 
it should be kept by the side of the fire until strongly flavoured, and not 
be allowed to boil for more than two or three minutes. Sweeten it with 
three ounces of fine sugar in lumps, and when this is dissolved, strain, 
and mix the milk with half a pint of cream ; then stir the whole gra- 
dually to the well-beaten yolks of six fresh eggs, and thicken it like 
boiled custard. Put it, when cold, into a deep dish, beat to a solid froth 
the whites of six eggs, mix them with five tablespoonsful of pounded 
and sifted sugar, and spread them evenly over the custard, which should 
be set immediately into a moderate oven, baked half an hour, and 
served directly it is taken out. 

New milk, 1 pint; rind of one lemon; bitter almonds, 5; sugar, 3 
ozs. ; cream, | pint ; yolks of eggs, 6 ; frothed whites of eggs, 6 ; 
sifted sugar, 5 tablespoonsful : baked, \ hour. 

Obs. — A layer of apricot, peach, or magnum bonum, marmalade 
placed in the dish before the custard-mixture is poured in will convert 
Xhis into the gentleman commoner's pudding. 

LEMON CREAM, MADE WITHOUT CREAM. 

Pour on the very thin rinds of two fresh lemons, and a pound of fine 
sugar broken small, or roughly powdered, one pint of boiling- water, and 
let them remain an hour; then add the whites of six eggs and the yolks 
of two, previously well beaten together, and the juice of six lemons ; 
mix them thoroughly, strain the whole into a deep jug, set this into a 
pan of boiling water, and stir the cream without quitting it until it is 
well thickened ; pour it out, and continue the stirring at intervals until 
it is nearly cold, when it may be put into the glasses. In cool weather 
this cream will remain good for several days, and it should always be 
made at least twenty-four hours before it is served. 

Lemon-rinds, 2; sugar, 1 lb.; water, 1 pint: 1 hour. Whites of 6 
eggs ; yolks of 2 ; juice of 6 lemons. 

VERY GOOD LEMON CREAMS. 

Pour over the very thin rinds of two moderate-sized but perfectly 
sound fresh lemons, and six ounces of sugar, half a pint of spring water, 
and let them remain six hours; then add the strained juice of the 
lemons, and five fresh eggs well beaten, and also strained ; take out the 
lemon-rind, and stir the mixture without ceasing over a gentle fire until 
it has boiled softly from six to eight minutes: it will not curdle as it 
would did milk supply the place of the water and lemon-juice. The 
creams are, we think, more delicate, tnough not quite so thick, when 
the yolks only of six eggs are used for them. They will keep well for 
nearly a week in really cold weather. 

Rinds of lemons, 2 ; sugar, 6 ozs. (or 8 when a very sweet dish is 
preferred) ; cold water, ^ pint : 6 hours. Juice of lemons, 2 ; eggs, 5 . 
to bp boiled softlv 6 to ft minutps. 



318 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XX. 

Obs. — Lemon creams may, on occasion, be more expeditiously pre- 
pared, by rasping- the rind of the fruit upon the sugar which is used for 
them ; or, by paring- it thin, and boiling it for a few minutes with the 
lemon-juice, sugar, and water, before they are stirred to the eggs. 

FRUIT CREAMS, AND ITALIAN CREAMS. 

These are very quickly and easily made, by mixing with good cream 
a sufficient proportion of the sweetened juice of fresh fruit, or of well- 
made fruit jelly or jam, to flavour it : a few drops of prepared cochineal 
may be added to deepen the colour when it is required for any particular 
purpose. A quarter-pint of strawberry or of raspberry jelly will fully 
flavour a pint of cream: a very little lemon-juice improves almost all 
compositions of this sort. When jam is used it must first be gradually 
mixed with the cream, and then worked through a sieve, to Like out the 
seed or skin of the fruit. All fresh juice, for this purpose, must, of 
course, be cold ; that of strawberries is best obtained by crushing the 
fruit and strewing sugar over it. Peaches, pine-apple, apricots, or nec- 
tarines, may be simmered for a few minutes in a little syrup, and this, 
drained well from them, will serve extremely well to mix with the 
cream when it has become thoroughly cold : the lemon-juice should be 
added to all of these. When the ingredients are well blended, lightly 
whisk or mill them to a froth ; take this off with a skimmer as it rises, 
and lay it upon a fine sieve reversed, to drain, or if it is to be served in 
glasses, fill them with it at once. 

Italian creams are either fruit-flavoured only, or mixed with wine 
like syllabubs, then whisked to a stiff" froth and put into a perforated 
mould, into which a muslin is first laid : or into a small hair-sieve (which 
must also first be lined with the muslin), and left to drain until the fol- 
lowing day, when the cream must be very gently turned out, and dished, 
and garnished as fancy may direct. 

VERY SUPERIOR WHIPPED SYLLABUBS. 

Weigh seven ounces of fine sugar and rasp on it the rinds of two 
fresh sound lemons of good size, then pound or roll it to powder, and put 
it into a bowl with the strained juice of the lemons, two large glasses 
of sherry, and two of brandy ; when the sugar is nearly or quite dis- 
solved add a pint of rich cream, and whisk or mill the mixture well ; 
take oft" the froth as it rises, and put it into glasses. These syllabubs 
will remain good for several days, and should always be made, if possi- 
ble, four and twenty hours before they are wanted for table. The full 
flavour of the lemon-rind is obtained with less trouble than in rasping, 
by paring it very thin indeed, and infusing it for some hours in the 
juice of the fruit. 

Sugar, 7 ozs. ; rind and juice of lemons, 2; sherry, 2 large wine- 
glassesful ; brandy, 2 wineglassesful ; cream, 1 pint. 

Obs. — These proportions are sufficient for two dozens or more of syl- 
labubs : they are often made with almost equal quantities of wine and 
cream, but are certainly neither so good nor so wholesome without a 
portion of brandy. 



«rf»K x?K 




Modern blamaiisje or cake mould. 



CHAP. XX."] SWEET DISHES. 319 

BLAMANGES. 

GOOD COMMON BLAMANGE, OR BLANC MANGER. {Author's Re'.Plpt.) 

Infuse for an hour in a pint and 
three quarters of new milk the 
very thin rind of one small, or of 
half a large lemon and eight bitter 
almonds, blanched and bruised; 
then add two ounces of sugar, or 
rather more for persons who like 
the blamange very sweet, and an 
ounce and a half of isinglass. Boil 
them gently over a clear fire, stir- 
ring them often until this last is dissolved ; take off the scum, stir in 
half a pint of rich cream, and strain the blamange into a bowl : it should 
be moved gently with a spoon until nearly cold to prevent the cream 
from settling on the surface. Before it is moulded, mix with it by de- 
grees a wineglassful of brandy. 

New milk, If pint; rind of lemon, ^ large or whole small 1 ; bitter 
almonds, 8; infuse 1 hour. Sugar, 2 to 3 ozs. ; isinglass, l^oz. : 10 
minutes. Cream, ^ pint; brandy, 1 wineglassful. 

RICHER BLAMANGE. 

A pint of good cream with a pint of new milk, sweetened and fla- 
voured as above, or with a little additional sugar, and the rind of one 
very fresh lemon with the same proportion of isinglass will make very 
good blamange. A couple of ounces of almonds may be pounded and 
mixed with it, but they are not needed with the cream. 

JAUMANGE, OR JAUNE MANGER ; SOMETIMES CALLED DUTCH FLUMMERY. 

Pour on the very thin rind of a large lemon, and half a pound of sugar 
broken small, a pint of water, and keep them stirred over a gentle fire 
until they have simmered for three or four minutes, then leave the 
saucepan by the side of the stove, that the syrup may taste well of the 
lemon. In ten or fifteen minutes afterwards add two ounces of isin- 
glass, and stir the mixture often until this is dissolved, then throw in 
the strained juice of four sound, moderate-sized lemons, and a pint of 
sherry ; mix the whole briskly with the beaten yolks of eight fresh eggs, 
and then pass it through a delicately clean hair-sieve: next thicken it 
in a jar or jug placed in a pan of boiling watefc, turn it into a bowl, and 
when it has become cool, and been allowed to settle for a minute or two, 
pour it into moulds which have been laid in water. Some persons add 
a small glass of brandy to it, and deduct so much from the quantity of 
water. 

Rind of 1 lemon; sugar, 8 ozs.; water, 1 pint: 3 or 4 minutes. 
Isinglass, 2 ozs. ; juice, 4 lemons ; yolks of 8 eggs ; wine, 1 pint ; brandy 
(at pleasure), 1 wineglassful. 

EXTREMELY GOOD STRAWBERRY BLAMANGE. 

Crush slightly, with a silver or a wooden spoon, a quart, measured 
without their stalks, of fresh and richly-flavoured strawberries ; strew 
over them eight ounces of pounded sugar, and let them stand three or 
four hours; then turn them on to a fin* 1 hair-sieve reversed, and press 



320 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XX. 

them through it. Molt over a gentle fire two ounces of the best isinglass 
in a pint of new milk, and sweeten it with four ounces of sugar ; strain it 
through a muslin, and mix it with a pint and a quarter of sweet thick 
cream ; keep these stirred until they are nearly or quite cold, then pour 
them gradually to the strawberries, whisking them briskly together ; 
and last of all throw in, by small portions the strained juice of a fine 
sound lemon. Mould the blamange, and set it in a very cool place for 
twelve hours or more, before it is served. 

Strawberries stalked, 1 quart ; sugar, 8 ozs. ; isinglass, 2 oz. ; new 
milk, 1 pint; sugar, 4 ozs.; cream, 1^ pint; juice, 1 lemon. 

QUINCE BLAMANGE. (Delicious.) 

This, if carefully made, and with ripe quinces, is one of the most 
richly-flavoured preparations of fruit that we have ever tasted ; and the 
receipt, we may venture to say, will be altogether new to the reader. 
Dissolve in a pint of prepared juice of quinces (see page 305), an ounce 
of the best isinglass; next, add ten ounces of sugar, roughly pounded, 
and stir these together gently over a clear fire, from twenty to thirty 
minutes, or until the juice jellies in filling from the spoon. Remove 
the scum carefully, and pour the boiling jelly gradually to half a pint 
of thick cream, stirring them briskly together as they are mixed : they 
must be stirred until very nearly cold, and then poured into a mould 
which has been rubbed in every part with the smallest possible quantity 
of very pure salad oil, or, if more convenient, into one that has been 
dipped into cold water. 

Juice of quinces, 1 pint ; isinglass, 1 oz. : 5 to 10 minutes. Sugar, 
10 ozs. ; 20 to 30 minutes. Cream, ^ pint. 

QUINCE BLAMANGE, WITH ALMOND CREAM. 

When cream is not procurable, which will sometimes happen in the 
depth of winter, almonds, if plentifully used, will afford a very good sub- 
stitute, though the finer blamang-e is made from the foregoing receipt. 
On four ounces of almonds, blanched and beaten to the smoothest paste, 
and moistened in the pounding with a few drops of water, to prevent 
their oiling, pour a pint of boiling quince-juice; stir them together, and 
turn them into a strong cloth, of which let the ends be held and twisted 
different ways by two persons, to express the cream from the almonds, 
put the juice again on the fire, with half a pound of sugar, and when it 
boils, throw in nearly an ounce of fine isinglass ; simmer the whole for 
five minutes, take off the scum, stir the blamange until it is nearly cold, 
then mould it for table. Increase the quantity both of this and of the 
preceding blamange, when a large dish of either is required. 

Quince-juice, 1 pint; almonds, 4 ozs. ; sugar, ^ lb. ; isinglass, nearly 
1 oz. : 5 minutes. 

APRICOT BLAMANGE, OR CREME PARISIENNE. 

Dissolve gently an ounce of fine isinglass in a pint of new milk or ol 
thin cream, and strain it through a folded muslin; put it into a clean 
saucepan, with three ounces of sugar, broken into small lumps, and 
when it boils, stir to it half a pint of rich cream; add it, at first, by 
spoonsful only, to eight ounces of the finest apricot jam, mix them very 
smoothly, and stir the whole until it is nearly cold, that the jam may 
not sink to the bottom of the mould : a tablespoonful of lomon-juico will 
improve the flavour. 



CHAP. XX.] SWEET DISHES. 321 

When cream is scarce, use milk instead, with an additional quarter- 
ounce of isinglass, and enrich it by pouring it boiling on the same pro- 
portion of almonds as for the second quince bla mange (see page 320). 
Cream can in all cases be substituted entirely for the milk, when a very 
rich preparation is desired. Peach jam will answer admirably for this 
receipt ; but none of any kind should be used for it which has not been 
passed through a sieve when made. 

Isinglass, 1 oz. ; new milk, 1 pint ; cream, \ pint ; sugar, 3 ozs. ; 
apricot jam, \ lb. ; lemon-juice, 1 tablespoonful. Or : peach jam, \ lb. ; 
cream, \\ pint. 

BLAMANGE RUBANE, OR, STRIPED BLAMANGE. 

Make in the ordinary way, but a little firmer, one quart or two of 
blamange, according to the number of moulds that are to be filled ; di- 
vide it into three or four equal portions ; add to one, sufficient prepared 
spinach-juice (see page 305), to colour it a full or a pale green; to ano- 
ther, some liquid cochineal or carmine; to a third, should further va- 
riety be desired, a few drops of strong infusion of saffron, or if its peculiar 
flavour be objected to, stir quickly some of the blamange quite boiling 
to the well-beaten yolks of three or four fresh eggs, and thicken it a 
little over a gentle fire with an additional spoonful or two of milk, for 
unless the whole be nearly of the same consistency, it will be liable to 
separate in the unmoulding. Chocolate, first boiled very smooth in a 
small quantity of water, will give an additional colour; and some firm, 
clear isinglass, or calf 's-foot jelly, may be used for an occasional stripe, 
where great variety is desired. The different kinds of blamange should 
be poured into the mould in half-inch depths, when so cool as to be only 
just liquid, and one colour must be perfectly cold before another is added, 
or they will run together, and spoil the appearance of the dish. When 
ice is not procurable, the moulds in warm weather may be set into 
water, mixed with plenty of salt and saltpetre : the insides should be 
rubbed with a drop of very pure salad oil, instead of being laid into fresh 
water, as usual. 

AN APPLE HEDGE-HOG, OR SUEDOISE. 

This dish is formed of apples, pared, cored without being divided, and 
stewed tolerably tender in a light syrup. These are placed in a dish, 
after being well drained, and vkMJW-Mji 

filled with apricot, or any v^nlM^i^ 

other rich marmalade, and 
arranged in two or more lay- 
ers, so as to give, when the 
whole is complete, the form 
shown in the engraving. The 
number required must depend 
on the size of the dish. From 
three to five pounds more must be stewed down into a smooth and dry 
marmalade, and with this all the spaces between them are to be filled 
up, and the whole are to be covered with it; an icing of two eggs, 
beaten to a very solid froth, and mixed with two heaped tablespoonsful 
of sugar, must then be spread evenly over the suedoise, fine sugar sifted 
on this, and spikes of hlanched almonds, cut lengthwise, stuck over the 
entire surface; the dish is then to be placed in a moderate oven untiJ 
20 




322 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XX. 

the almonds are browned, but not too deeply, and the apples are hot 
through. It is not easy to give the required tbrm with less than fifteen 
apples; eight of these may first be simmered in a syrup made with half 
a pint of water and six ounces of sugar, and the remainder may be 
thrown in after these are lifted out. Care must be taken to keep them 
firm. The marmalade should be sweet, and pleasantly flavoured with 
lemon. 

IMPERIAL GOOSEBERRY-FOOL. 

Simmer a pound of green gooseberries which have been freed from 
the buds and stalks, in three-quarters of a pint of water, until they are 
well broken, then strain them, and to half a pound of the juice add half 
a pound of sugar, broken small : boil these together for fifteen minutes. 
Dissolve half an ounce of isinglass in a quarter-pint of rich cream, pour 
them into a basin, and stir them till only lukewarm, then mix them by 
degrees with the sugar and gooseberry-juice, which should also have 
been allowed to cool ; add the strained juice of half a small lemon, and 
mould the mixture, which should stand at least twelve hours, in a cool 
place, before it is turned out. 

These proportions are sufficient for a small mould only, and must be 
doubled for a large one. The dish is too sweet for our own taste, but 
as it has been highly approved by several persons who have tasted it, 
we give the receipt exactly as we had it tried in the first instance : it 
will be found extremely easy to vary it. 

VERY GOOD OLD-FASHIONED BOILED CUSTARD. 

Throw into a pint and a half of new milk, the very thin rind of a 
fresh lemon, and let it infuse for half an hour, then simmer them 
together for a few minutes, and add four ounces and a half of white 
sugar. Beat thoroughly the yolks of fourteen fresh eggs, mix with 
them another half-pint of new milk, stir the boiling milk quickly to 
them, take out the lemon-peel, and turn the custard into a deep jug ; set 
this over the fire in a pan of boiling water, and keep the custard stirred 
gently, but without ceasing, until it begins to thicken ; then move the 
spoon rather more quickly, making it always touch the bottom of the 
jug, until the mixture is brought to the point of boiling, when it must 
be instantly taken from the fire, or it will curdle in a moment. Pour it 
into a bowl, and keep it stirred until nearly cold, then add to it by de- 
grees a wineglassful of good brandy, and two ounces of blanched 
almonds, cut into spikes; or omit these, at pleasure. A few bitter ones, 
bruised, can be boiled in the milk in lieu of lemon-peel, when their fla- 
vour is preferred. 

New milk, 1 quart; rind of 1 lemon; sugar, 4^ ozs. ; yolks of eggs, 
14; salt, ^ saltspoonful. 

RICH BOILED CUSTARD. 

Take a small cupful from a quart of fresh cream, and simmer the 
remainder for a few minutes with four ounces of sugar and the rind of 
a lemon, or give it any other flavour that may be preferred. Beat and 
strain the yolks of eight ews, mix them with the cupful of cream, and 
stir the rest boiling to them: thicken the custard like the preceding 
one. 

Cream, 1 quart; sugar, 4 ozs. ; yolks of eggfi, 8. 



CHAP. XX.] SWEET DISHES. 323 

THE QUEEN'S CUSTARD. 

On the beaten and strained yolks of twelve new-laid eggs pour a 
pint and a half of boiling cream which has been sweetened, with three 
ounces of sugar ; add the smallest pinch of salt, and thicken the custard 
as usual. When nearly cold, flavour it with a glass and a half of no- 
yeau, maraschino, or cuirasseau ; add the sliced almonds or not, at 
pleasure. 

Yolks of eggs, 12; cream, 1^ pint; sugar, 3 ozs. ; little salt; noyeau 
maraschino, or cuirasseau, 1^ wineglassful. 

CURRANT CUSTARD. 

Boil in a pint of clear currant-juice ten ounces of sugar for three 
minutes, take off the scum, and pour the boiling juice on eight well- 
beaten eggs; thicken the custard in a jug set into a pan of water, pour 
it out, stir it till nearly cold, then add to it carefully, and by degrees, 
half a pint of rich cream, and last of all two tiblespoonsful of strained 
lemon-juice. When the currants are very ripe, omit one ounce of the 
sugar. 

White currants and strawberries, cherries, red or white raspberries, 
or a mixture of any of these fruits, may be used for these custards with 
good effect : they are excellent. 

Currant-juice, 1 pint; sugar, 10 ozs.: 3 minutes. Eggs, 8; cream, 
^pint; lemon-juice, 2 tablespoonsful. 

QUINCE OR APPLE CUSTARDS. 

Add to a pint of apple-juice prepared as for jelly, a tablespoonful of 
strained lemon-juice, and from four to six ounces of sugar according to 
the acidity of the fruit; stir these boiling, quickly, and in small por- 
tions, to eight well-beaten eggs, and thicken the custard in a jug placed 
in a pan of boiling water, in the usual manner. A large proportion of 
lemon-juice and a high flavouring of the rind can be given when ap- 
proved. For quince custards, which if well made are excellent, observe 
the same directions as for the apple, but omit the lemon-juice. As we 
have before observed, all custards are much finer when made with the 
yolks only of the eggs, of which the number must be increased nearly 
half, when this is done. 

Prepared apple-juice (see page 305), 1 pint; lemon-juice, 1 table- 
spoonful ; sugar, 4 to 6 ozs.; eggs, 8. Quince custards, same propor- 
tions, but no lemon-juice. 

Obs. — In making lemon-creams the apple-juice may be substituted 
very advantageously for water, without varying the receipt in other 
respects. 

CHOCOLATE CUSTARDS. 

Dissolve gently by the side of the fire an ounce and a half of the 
best chocolate in rather more than a wineglassful of water, and then 
boil it until it is perfectly smooth ; mix with it a pint of milk well fla- 
voured with lemon-peel or vanilla, add two ounces of fine sugar, and 
when the whole boils, stir it to five well-beaten eggs that have been 
strained. Put the custard into a jar or jug, set it into a pan of boiling 
water, and stir it without ceasing until it is thick. Do not put it into 
glasses or a dish till nearly or quite cold. These, as well as all other 
custards, are infinitely finer when made with the yolks only of the eggs, 



334 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XX. 

of whicn the number must then be increased. Two ounces of choco- 
late, a pint of milk, half a pint of cream, two ounces and a half or three 
ounces of sugar, and eight yolks of eggs, will make very superior cus- 
tards of this kind. 

Rasped chocolate, 1^ oz. ; water, 1 large wineglassful : 5 to 8 mi- 
nutes. New milk, 1 pint; eggs, 5; sugar, 2 ozs. Or, chocolate, 2 
ozs. ; water, ± pint; new milk, 1 pint: sugar, 2^ to 3 ozs. ; cream, ^ 
pint; yolks of eggs, 8. 

Ohs. — Either of these may be moulded by dissolving from half to 
three quarters of an ounce of isinglass in the milk. The proportion of 
chocolate can be increased to the taste. 

COMMON BAKED CUSTARD. 

Mix a quart of new milk with eight w 7 ell-beaten eggs, strain the 
mixture through a fine sieve, and sweeten it with from five to eight 
ounces of sugar, according to the taste; add a small pinch of salt, and 
pour the custard into a deep dish with or without a lining or rim of 
paste, grate nutmeg or lemon rind over the top, and bake it in a very 
slow oven from twenty to thirty minutes, or longer, should it not be 
firm in the centre. A custard, if well made, and properly baked, will 
be quite smooth when cut, without the honey-combed appearance which 
a hot oven gives ; and there will be no whey in the dish. 

New milk, 1 quart; eggs, 8; sugar, 5 to 8 ozs.; salt, i salt-spoon- 
ful ; nutmeg or lemon-grate : baked, slow oven, 20 to 30 minutes, or 
more. 

A FINER BAKED CUSTARD. 

Boil together gently, for five minutes, a pint and a half of new milk, 
a few grains of salt, the very thin rind of a lemon, and six ounces of 
loaf sugar; stir these boiling, but very gradually to the well-beaten 
yolks of ten fresh eggs, and the whites of four ; strain the mixture, and 
add to it half a pint of good cream ; let it cool, and then flavour it with 
a few spoonsful of brandy, or a little ratafia ; finish and bake it by the 
directions given for the common custard above ; or pour it into small 
well-buttered cups, and bake it very slowly from ten to twelve minutes. 

FRENCH CUSTARDS. 

To a quart of new milk allow the yolks of twelve fresh eggs, but to 
equal parts of milk and cream of ten only. From six to eight ounces 
of sugar will sweeten the custard sufficiently for general taste, but more 
can be added at will; boil this for a few minutes gently in the milk 
with a grain or two of salt, and stir the mixture briskly to the eggs, as 
soon as it is taken from the fire. Butter a round deep dish, pour in the 
custard, and place it in a pan of water at the point of boiling, taking 
care that it shall not reach to within an inch of the edge ; let it just 
simmer, and no more, from an hour to an hour and a half: w 7 hen quite 
firm in the middle, it will be done. A very few live embers should be 
kept on the lid of the stewpan to prevent the steam falling from it into 
the custard. When none is at hand of a form to allow of this, it is bet- 
ter to use a charcoal fire, and to lay an oven-leaf, or tin, over the pan, 
and the embers in the centre. The small French furnace, shown in 
Chapter XXL, is exceedingly convenient for preparations of this kind ; 
and there is always more or less of difficulty in keeping a coal fire en- 



CHAP. XX.] SWEET DISHES. 325 

tirely free from smoke for any length of time. Serve the custard cold, 
with chopped macaroons, or ratafias, laid thickly round the edge so as 
to form a border an inch deep. A few petals of fresh orange-blossom 
infused in the milk, will give it a most agreeable flavour, very superior 
to that derived from the distilled water. Half a pod of vanilla, cut in 
short lengths, and well bruised, may be used instead of either; but the 
milk should then stand some time by the fire before or after it boils, and 
it must be strained through a muslin before it is added to the eggs, as 
the small seed of the vanilla would probably pass through a sieve. 

New milk, 1 quart; yolks of eggs, 12; sugar, 6 to 8 ozs. Or, new 
milk, 1 pint; cream, 1 pint; yolks of eggs, 10; flavouring of orange- 
flowers or vanilla: simmered in water-bath, 1 to 1^ hour. 

GERMAN PUFFS. 

Pound to a perfectly smooth paste two ounces of sweet almonds and 
six bitter ones; mix with them, by slow degrees, the yolks of six, and 
the whites of three eggs. Dissolve in half a pint of rich cream, four 
ounces of fresh butter, and two of fine sugar ; pour these hot to the 
eggs, stirring them briskly together, and when the mixture has become 
cool, flavour it with half a glass of brandy, or of orange-flower water; 
or, in lieu of either, with a little lemon-brandy. Butter some cups 
thickly, and strew into them a few slices of candied citron, or orange 
rind ; pour in the mixture, and bake the puffs twenty minutes, in a slow 
oven. 

Sweet almonds, 2 ozs.; bitter almonds, 6; eggs, whites, 3, — yolks, 
6; cream, \ pint; butter, 4 ozs. ; sugar, 2 ozs.; brandy, cuirasseau, or 
orange-flower water, £ wineglassful (or little lemon-brandy) : 20 mi- 
nutes, slow oven. 

RASPBERRY PUFFS. 

Roll out thin some fine puff-paste, cut it in rounds or squares of equal 
size, lay some raspberry jam into each, moisten the edges of the paste, 
fold and press them together, and bake the puffs from ten to fifteen mi- 
nutes. Strawberry, or any other jam will serve for them equally well. 

CREAMED TARTLETS. 

Line some pattypans with very fine paste, and put into each a layer 
of apricot jam ; on this pour some thick-boiled custard, or the pastry 
cream of page 267. Whisk the whites of a couple of eggs to a solid 
froth, mix a couple of tablespoonsful of sifted sugar with them, lay this 
icing lightly over the tartlets, and bake them in a gentle oven from 
twenty to thirty minutes, unless they should be very small, when less 
time must be allowed for them. 

AN APPLE CHARLOTTE, OR CHARLOTTE DES POMMES. 

Butter a plain mould (a round or square cake-tin will answer the 
purpose quite well), and line it entirely with thin slices of the crumb 
of a stale loaf, cut so as to fit into it with great exactness, and dipped 
into clarified butter 1 . When this is done, fill the mould to the brim with 
apple marmalade ; cover the top with slices of bread dipped in butter, 
and on these place a dish, a large plate, or the cover of a stewpan with 
a weight upon it. Send the charlotte to a brisk oven for three quarters 
of an hour should it be small, and for an hour if large. Turn it out with 



326 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XX. 

great care, and serve it hot. If baked in a slack oven it will not take 
a proper degree of colour, and it will be liable to break in the dishing. 
The strips of bread must of course join very perfectly, for if any spaces 
were left between them the syrup of the fruit would escape, and de- 
stroy the good appearance of the dish: should there not have been suffi- 
cient marmalade prepared to fill the mould entirely, a jar of quince or 
apricot jam, or of preserved cherries even, may be added to it with 
advantage. The butter should be well drained from the charlotte before 
it is taken from the mould ; and sugar may be sifted thickly over it be- 
fore it is served, or it may be covered with any kind of clear red jelly. 

A more elegant, and we think an easier mode of forming the crust, 
is to line the mould with small rounds of bread stamped out with a 
plain cake, or paste-cutter, then dipped in butter, and placed with the 
edges sufficiently one over the other to hold the fruit securely : the 
strips of bread are sometimes arranged in the same way. 

| to 1 hour, quick oven. 

MARMALADE FOR THE CHARLOTTE. 

Weigh three pounds of good boiling apples, after they have been 
pared, cored, and quartered ; put them into a stewpan with six ounces 
of fresh butter, three quarters of a pound of sugar beaten to powder, 
three quarters of a teaspoonful of pounded cinnamon, and the strained 
juice of a lemon: let these stew over a gentle fire, until they form a 
perfectly smooth and dry marmalade ; keep them often stirred that they 
may not burn, and let them cool before they are put into the crust. This 
quantity is for a moderate-sized charlotte. 

A CHARLOTTE A LA PARISIENNE. 

This dish is sometimes called a Vienna cake ; and it is known also, 
we believe, as a Gateaux de Bordeaux. Cut horizontally into half-inch 
slices a sponge cake, and cover each slice with a different kind of pre- 
serve ; replace them in their original form, and spread equally over the 
cake an icing made with the whites of three eggs, and tour ounces of 
the finest pounded sugar ; sift more sugar over it in every part, and put 
it into a very slack oven to dry. The eggs should be whisked to snow 
before they are used. One kind of preserve, instead of several, can be 
used for this dish ; and a rice or a pound cake may, on an emergency, 
supply the place of the Savoy, or sponge biscuit. 

A GERTRUDE A LA CREME. 

Slice a plain pound or rice cake as for the Charlotte a la Parisienne, 
and take a round out of the centre of each slice with a tin-cutter before 
the preserve is laid on ; replace the whole in its original form, ice the 
outside with a green or rose-coloured icing at pleasure, and dry it in a 
gentle oven ; or decorate it instead with leaves of almond paste, fasten- 
ing them to it with white of egg. Just before it is sent to table, fill it 
with well-drained whipped cream, flavoured as for a trifle, or in any 
other way to the taste. 

pommes au beurre ; (buttered apples. Excellent.) 
Pare six or eight fine apples of a firm kind, but of a good cooking 
sort, and core without piercing them through, or dividing them ; fill the 
cavities with fresh butter, put a quarter-pound moie cut small into a 



CHAP. XX.]] SWEET DISHES. 327 

stewpan just large enough to contain the apples in a single layer, place 
them closely together on it, and stew them as softly as possible, turning 
them occasionally until they are almost sufficiently tender to serve ; then 
strew upon them as much sifted sugar as will sweeten the dish highly, 
and a teaspoonful of pounded cinnamon ; shake these well in and upon 
the fruit, and stew it for a few minutes longer. Lift it out, arrange it 
in a hot dish, put into each apple as much warm apricot jam as it will 
contain, and lay a small quantity on the top ; pour the syrup from the 
pan round, but not on the fruit, and serve it immediately. 

Apples, 6 to 8 ; fresh butter, 4 ozs., just simmered till tender. Sugar, 
6 to 8 ozs. ; cinnamon, 1 teaspoonful : 5 minutes. Apricot jam as 
needed. 

Obs. — Particular care must be taken to keep the apples entire; they 
should rather steam in a gentle heat than boil. It is impossible to 
specify the precise time which will render them sufficiently tender, as 
this must depend greatly on the time of year and the sort of fruit. If 
the stewpan were placed in a very slow oven, the more regular heat of 
it would perhaps be better in its effect than the stewing. 

SUEDOISE OF TEACHES. 

Pare and divide four fine, ripe peaches, and let them just simmer 
from five to eight minutes in a syrup made with the third of a pint of 
water and three ounces of very white sugar, boiled together for fifteen 
minutes ; lift them out carefully into a deep dish, and pour about half 
the syrup over them, and into the remaining- half throw a couple of 
pounds more of quite ripe peaches, and boil them to a perfectly smooth, 
dry pulp, or marmalade, with as much additional sugar, in fine powder, 
as the nature of the fruit may require. Lift the other peaches from the 
syrup, and reduce it by very quick boiling more than half Spread a 
deep layer of the marmalade in a dish, arrange the peaches symmetri- 
cally round it, and fill all the spaces between them with the marma- 
lade ; place the half of a blanched peach-kernel in each, pour the re- 
duced syrup equally over the surface, and border the dish with Italian 
macaroons, or, in lieu of these, with candied citron, sliced very thin, 
and cut into leaves with a small paste-cutter. A little lemon-juice 
brings out the flavour of all preparations of peaches, and may be added 
with good effect to this. When the fruit is scarce, the marmalade 
(which ought to be very white) may be made in part or entirely with 
nonsuches. The better to preserve their form, the peaches are some- 
times merely wiped, and then boiled tolerably tender in the syrup before 
they are pared or split. Half a pint of water, and from five to six 
ounces of sugar must then be allowed for them. If any of those used 
for the marmalade should not be quite ripe, it will be better to pass it 
through a sieve, when partially done, to prevent its being lumpy. 

Large ripe peaches, pared and halved, 4 ; simmered in syrup, 5 to 8 
minutes. Marmalade : peaches (or nonsuches), 2 lbs. ; sugar, ^ to ^ 
lb. : £ to 1 hour, and more : strained lemon-juice, 1 tablespoon fill. Cit 
ron, or macaroons, ^as needed. 

Peaches, if boiled whole in syrup, 15 to 18 minutes. 

Obs. — The number of peaches can, at pleasure, be increased to six 
and three or four of the halves can be piled above the others in the cen- 
tre of the dish. 



328 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XX. 

AROCE DOCE (OR SWEET RICE. A LA PORTUGAISE) 

Wipe thoroughly, in a dry soft cloth, half a pound of the best Caro- 
lina rice, after it has been carefully picked; put to it three pints of new 
milk, and when it has stewed gently for half an hour, add eight ounces 
of sugar, broken into small lumps; let it boil until it is dry and tender, 
and when it is nearly so, stir to it two ounces of blanched and pounded 
almonds. Turn the rice, when done, into shallow dishes, or soup-plates, 
and shake it until the surface is smooth; then sift over it, rather thickly, 
through a muslin, some freshly-powdered cinnamon, which will give it 
the appearance of a baked pudding. Serve it cold. It will remain 
good lor several days. This is quite the best sweet preparation of rice 
that we have ever eaten, and it is a very favourite dish in Portugal, 
whence the receipt was derived. One or two bitter almonds, pounded 
with the sweet ones, might a little improve its flavour, and a few spoons- 
ful of rich cream could occasionally be substituted for a small portion of 
the milk, but it should not be added until the preparation is three 
parts done. 

Rice, 8 ozs. ; milk, 3 pints: 30 minutes. Sugar, 8 ozs. : 1 hour, or 
more. Pounded almonds, 2 ozs. ; cinnamon, 1 teaspoonful. 

Obs. — The rice must be frequently stirred while boiling, particularly 
after it begins to thicken ; and it will be better not to add the entire 
quantity of milk at first, as from a quarter to half a pint less will some- 
times prove sufficient. The grain should be thoroughly tender, but dry 
and unbroken. 

BERMUDA WITCHES. 

Slice equally some rice, pound, or sponge cake, not more than the 
sixth of an inch thick; take oft' the brown edges, and spread one half of 
it with Guava jelly, or, if more convenient, with fine strawberry, rasp- 
berry, or currant jelly of good quality (see Norman receipt, 338) ; on this 
strew thickly some fresh cocoanut grated small, and lightly; press over 
it the remainder of the cake, and trim the whole into good form ; divide 
the slices if large, pile them slopingly in the centre of a dish upon a 
very white napkin folded flat, and garnish or intersperse them with 
small sprigs of myrtle. For very young people a French roll or two, 
and good currant jelly, red or white, will supply a wholesome and inex- 
pensive dish. 

STRENGTHENING BLAMANGE. 

Dissolve in a pint of new milk, half an ounce of isinglass, strain it 
through a muslin, or a fine silk sieve, put it again on the fire with the 
rind of half a small lemon pared very thin, and two ounces of sugar, 
broken small ; let it simmer gently till well flavoured, then take out the 
lemon-peel, and stir the milk to the beaten yolks of three fresh eggs ; 
pour the mixture back into the saucepan, and hold it over the fire, 
keeping it stirred until it begins to thicken ; put it into a deep basin, 
and keep it moved with a whisk or spoon, until it is nearly cold ; pour 
it into moulds which have been laid in water, and set in a cool place 
till firm. 

New milk, 1 pint; isinglass, £ oz. ; lemon-rind, l of 1 : 10 to 15 
minutes. Sugar, 2 ozs. ; yolks of eggs, 3. 



CHAP. XXI.] PRESERVES. 329 

CHAPTER XXL 
P RESERVES. 



Portable French Furnace, with Stewpan and Trevet. 

No. I. Portable French Furnace.— 2. Depth at which the grating is placed.— 3. Stew 
pan. — 4. Trevet. 

INTRODUCTORY REMARKS. 

Frltt for preserving should always be gathered in perfectly dry 
weather ; it should also be free both from the morning and evening dew, 
and as much so as possible from dust. When bottled, it must be 
steamed or baked during the day on which it is gathered, or there will 
be great loss from the bursting of the bottles ; and for jams and jellies it 
cannot be too soon boiled down after it is taken from the trees. 

The small portable French stove, or furnace,* shown above, with the 
trevet and stewpan adapted to it, is exceedingly convenient for all pre- 
parations which require either more than usual attention, or a fire 
entirely free from smoke; as it can be placed on a table in a clear 
light, and the heat can be regulated at pleasure. It has been used for 
all the preserves, of which the receipts are given in this chapter, as 
well as for various dishes contained in the body of the work. There 
should always be a free current of air in the room in which it stands 
when lighted, as charcoal or braise (that is to say, the little embers of 
large well-burned wood, drawn from an oven, and shut immediately 
into a closely-stopped iron or copper vessel to extinguish them) is the 
only fuel suited to it. To kindle either of these, two or three bits must 
be lighted in a common fire, and laid on the top of that in the furnace, 
which should be evenly placed between the grating and the brim, and 
then blown gently with the bellows until the whole is alight : the door 

* Caller! in France, Unforneau Economique. A baking-tin should be placed on the 
table for the furnacf? to stand upon, to guard against danger from the ashes or embers 
falling. American atoves or furnaces may be made in a similar manner. 



330 



MODERN COOKERY. 



CHAP. XXI. 



of the furnace must in the meanwhile be open, and remain so, unless 
the heat should at any time be too fierce for the preserves, when it must 
be closed for a few minutes, to moderate it. To extinguish the fire 




Closed Furnace and Cover. 



Form of Trevet. 



altogether, the cover must be pressed closely on, and the door be quite 
shut: the embers which remain will serve to rekindle it easily, but 
before it is again lighted the grating must be lifted out and all the ashes 
cleared away. It should be set by in a place which is not damp. 

The German enamelled stevvpans, now coming into general use, are, 
from the peculiar nicety of the composition with which they are lined, 
better adapted than any others to pickling and preserving, as they may 
be used without danger for acids; and red fruits, when boiled in them, 
retain the brightness of their colour as well as if copper or bell-metal 
were used for them. The form of the old-fashioned preserving-pan, 
made usually of one or the other of these, is shown above ; but it has 
not, we should say, even the advantage of being of convenient shape; 
for the handles quickly become heated, and the pan, in consequence, 
cannot always be instantaneously raised from the fire when the contents 
threaten to over-boil, or to burn. 

It is desirable to have three or four wooden spoons or spatulas, one 
fine hair-sieve, at the least, one or two large squares of common mus- 
lin, and a strainer, or more of closer texture, kept exclusively for pre- 
parations of fruit, for if used for other purposes, there is the hazard, 
without great care, of their retaining some strong or coarse flavour, 
which they would impart to the preserves. A sieve, for example, 
through which any preparation of onions has been poured, should never, 
on any account, be brought into use for any kind of confectionary, nor 
in making sweet dishes, nor for straining eggs or milk for puddings, 
cakes, or bread. Damp is the great enemy, "not only of preserves and 
pickles, but of numberless other household stores; yet, in many situa- 
tions, it is extremely difficult to exclude it. To keep them in a " dry 
cool place''' (words which occur so frequently both in this book, and in 
most others on the same subject), is more easily directed than done. 
They remain, we find, more entirely free from any danger of moulding, 
when covered with a brandied paper only, and placed on the shelves of 
a tolerably dry store-room ; but they are rather liable to candy when 
thus kept, and we fancy that the flavour of the fruit is somewhat less 
perfectly preserved than when they are quite secured from the air by 



CHAP. XXI.J PRESERVES. 331 

skins stretched over the jars. If left uncovered, the inroads of mice 
upon them must be guarded against, as they will commit great havoc 
in a single night on these sweet stores. When the slightest fermenta- 
tion is perceptible in syrup, it should immediately be boiled for some 
minutes, and well skimmed ; the fruit taken from it should then be 
thrown in, and well scalded also, and the whole, when done, should be 
turned into a very clean dry jar : this kind of preserve should always 
be covered with one or two skins, or with parchment and thick paper. 

A FEW GENERAL RULES AND DIRECTIONS FOR PRESERVING. 

1. Let every thing used for the purpose be delicately clean and dry t 
bottles especially so. 

2. Never place a preserving-pan flat vpon the fire, as this will ren- 
der the preserve liable to burn to, as it is called; that is to say, to ad- 
here closely to the metal, and then to burn ; it should rest always on a 
trevet, or on the lowered bar of the kitchen range. 

3. After the sugar is added to them, stir the preserves gently at first, 
and more quickly towards the end, without quitting them until they are 
done ; this precaution will always prevent the chance of their being 
spoiled. 

4. All preserves should be perfectly cleared from the scum as it 
rises. 

5. Fruit which is to be preserved in syrup must first be blanched or 
boiled gently, until it is sufficiently softened to absorb the sugar; and a 
thin syrup must be poured on it at first, or it will shrivel instead of re- 
maining plump, and becoming clear. Thus, if its weight of sugar is to 
be allowed, and boiled to a syrup with a pint of water to the pound, only 
half the weight must be taken at first, and this must not be boiled with 
the water more than fifteen or twenty minutes at the commencement 
of the process; a part of the remaining sugar must be added every 
time the syrup is reboiled, unless it should be otherwise directed in the 
receipt. 

6. To preserve both the true flavour and the colour of fruit in jams 
and jellies, boil them rapidly until they are well reduced, before the 
sugar is added, and quickly afterwards, but do not allow them to be- 
come so much thickened that the sugar will not dissolve in them easily, 
and throw up its scum. In some seasons, the juice is so much richer 
than in others, that this effect takes place almost before one is aware of 
it; but the drop which adheres to the skimmer, when it is held up, will 
show the state it has reached. 

7. Never use tin, iron, or pewter spoons, or skimmers for preserves, 
as they will convert the colour of red fruit into a dingy purple, and im- 
part, besides, a very unpleasant flavour. 

8. When cheap jams or jellies are required, make them at once 
with loaf-sugar, but use that which is well refined always, for pre- 
serves in general ; it is a false economy, as we have elsewhere observ- 
ed, to purchase an inferior kind, as there is great waste from it in the 
quantity of scum which it throws up, The best has been used for all 
the receipts given here. 

TO EXTRACT THE JUICE OF PLUMS FOR JELLY. 

Take the stalks from the fruit, and throw aside all that is not per- 



332 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XXI. 

fectly sound ; put it into very clean, large stone jars, and give part of 
the harder kinds, such as bullaces and damsons, a gash with a knife as 
they are thrown in ; do this especially in filling the upper part of the 
jars. Tie one or two folds of thick paper over them, and set them for 
the night into an oven from which the bread has been drawn four or 
five hours; or cover them with bladder, instead of paper, place them 
in deep pans of water, and boil them gently from two to three hours, or 
until the fruit is quite soft, and has yielded all the juice it will afford : 
this last is the safer and better mode for jellies of delicate colour. 

TO WEIGH THE JUICE OF FRUIT. 

Put a basin into one scale, and its weight into the other ; add to this 
last the weight which is required of the juice, and pour into the basin 
as much as will balance the scales. It is always better to weigh than 
to measure the juice for preserving, as it can generally be done with 
more exactness. 

GREEN GOOSEBERRY JELLY. 

Wash some freshly-gathered gooseberries very clean, after having 
taken off the tops and stalks, then to each pound, pour three-quarters of 
a pint of spring water, and simmer them until they are well broken; 
turn the whole into a jelly-bag or cloth, and let all the juice drain 
through ; weigh, and boil it rapidly for fifteen minutes. Draw it from 
the fire, and stir into it until entirely dissolved an equal weight of good 
sugar reduced to powder ; boil the jelly from fifteen to twenty minutes 
longer, or until it jellies strongly on the spoon or skimmer; clear it 
perfectly from scum, and pour it into small jars, moulds, or glasses. It 
ought to be very pale and transparent. Preserved fruits just dipped into 
hot water to take off the syrup, then well drained and 'dried, may be 
arranged with good effect in the centre of the gooseberry jelly if the 
glasses be rather less than half filled before they are laid in, and the 
jelly just set : the remainder must be kept liquid to fill them up. The 
sugar may be added to the juice at first, and the preserve boiled from 
twenty-five to thirty-five minutes, but the colour will not then be so 
good. When the fruit abounds the juice may be drawn from it with 
very little water, as directed for apples, page 350, when it will require 
much less boiling. 

Gooseberries, 6 lbs. ; water, 4 pints : 20 to 30 minutes. Juice boiled 
quickly, 15 minutes ; to each pound, 1 lb. sugar : 15 to 20 minutes. 

green gooseberry-jam ; {firm and of good colour.) 
Cut the stalks and tops from the fruit, weigh and bruise it slightly, 
boil it for six or seven minutes, keeping it well turned during the time ; 
then to every three pounds of gooseberries add two and a half of sugar, 
beaten to powder, and boil the preserve quickly for three-quarters of an 
hour. It must be constantly stirred, and carefully cleared from scum. 
Green gooseberries, 6 lbs. : 6 to 7 minutes. Sugar, 5 lbs. : | hour. 

TO DRY GREEN GOOSEBERRIES. 

Take the finest green gooseberries, fully grown, and freshly gathered ; 
cut off the buds, split them across the tops halfway down, and with the 
small end of a tea or of an egg-spoon, scoop out. the seeds. Boil toge- 
ther for fifteen minutes a pound and a half of the finest sugar, and a 
pint of water; skim this syrup thoroughly and throw into it a pound of 



CHAP. XXI.] ( PRESERVES. 333 

the seeded gooseberries; simmer them from five to seven minutes, when 
they ought to be clear and tender ; when they are so lift them out, and 
throw as many more into the syrup ; drain them a little when done, 
spread them singly on dishes, and dry them very gradually in a quite 
cool stove or oven, or in a sunny window. They will keep well in the 
syrup, and may be potted in it, and dried when wanted for use. 

Green gooseberries without the seeds, 2 lbs. ; water, 1 pint; sugar, 
1^ lb. : boiled 15 minutes. Gooseberries simmered, 5 to 7 minutes. 

GREEN GOOSEBERRIES FOR TARTS. 

Fill very clean, dry, wide-necked bottles with gooseberries gathered 
the same day, and before they have attained their full growth. Cork 
them lightly, wrap a little hay round each of them, and set them up to 
their necks in a copper of cold water, which should be brought very 
gradually to boil. Let the fruit be gently simmered until it appears 
shrunken and perfectly scalded ; then take out the bottles, and with the 
contents of one or two fill up the remainder, and use great care not to 
break the fruit in doing this. When all are ready, pour scalding 
water into the bottles and cover the gooseberries entirely with it, or 
they will become mouldy at the top. Cork the bottles well imme- 
diately, and cover the necks with melted rosin ; keep them in a cool 
place ; and when they are used pour off the greater part of the water, 
and add sugar as for the fresh fruit, of which they will have quite the 
flavour and appearance ; and they will be found much more wholesome 
prepared in this manner than if simply baked or steamed in the bottles. 

GREEN GOOSEBERRY SOLID. 

Bruise well, and boil six pounds of fresh green gooseberries for an 
hour and a quarter without sugar, and for half an hour after having 
stirred to them a couple of pounds of good quality, reduced quite to 
powder. Press the preserve into shallow pans or small shapes, and 
un mould it when it is wanted for table. 

Green gooseberries, 6 lbs. : 1 a hour. Sugar, 2 lbs. : \ hour. 

RED GOOSEBERRY JAM. 

The small rough red gooseberry, when fully ripe, is the best for this 
preserve, which may, however, be made of the larger kinds. When 
the buds and stalks have been taken carefully from the fruit, weigh, and 
boil it quickly for three quarters of an hour, keeping it well stirred ; 
then for six pounds of the gooseberries add two and a half of good 
roughly-powdered sugar (or three of fine Lisbon, if only a common pre- 
serve be wanted); boil these together briskly, from twenty to twenty- 
five minutes, and stir the jam well from the bottom of the pan, as it is 
liable to burn if this be neglected. 

Small red gooseberries, 6 lbs.: | hour. Pounded sugar, 2^ lbs, (for 
common jam Lisbon sugar 3 lbs.) : 20 to 25 minutes. 

GOOSEBERRIES DRIED WITHOUT SUGAR. 

Choose them fine .and ripe, spread them separately on large dishes, 
and dry them very gradually by the heat of a gentle oven, or in the sun 
where they will be well protected from dust. If flattened with the 
finger when partially done, tney will preserve a better form, and be 
more quickly dried. 



334 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XXI. 

CHERRY JAM. 

First stone, and then weigh some freshly gathered preserving cher- 
ries ; boil them over a brisk fire for an hour, keeping them almost 
constantly stirred from the bottom of the pan, to which they will other- 
wise be liable to stick and burn. Add half a pound of good sugar roughly 
powdered for each pound of the fruit, and boil the preserve quickly for 
twenty minutes, taking off the scum as it rises. The blanched kernels 
of part of the cherries may be added to the jam five minutes before it is 
taken from the fire. We can recommend this receipt as producing a 
firm preserve of fine colour and flavour, and very far superior to any 
that can be made by the more common method of boiling the fruit and 
sugar together from the beginning. 

Stoned cherries, 6 lbs. : 1 hour. Sugar, 3 lbs. : 20 minutes. 

Obs. — Increase the proportion of sugar, when it is liked, to twelve or 
sixteen ounces, and diminish the boiling a quarter of an hour before it 
is added, and ten minutes after. We have found almost invariably, that 
preserves made by the receipts we have given have been preferred to 
richer ones. 

to dry cherries with sugar ; (a quick and easy method.) 
Stone some fine, sound cherries; weigh and put them into a pre- 
serving-pan, with six ounces of sugar reduced to powder to each pound 
of the fruit: set them over a moderate fire, and simmer them gently for 
nearly or quite twenty minutes; let them remain in the syrup until 
they are a little cooled, then turn them into a sieve, and before they 
are cold lay them singly on dishes, and dry them very gradually, as 
directed for other fruits. When the cherries are quite ripe the stones 
may generally be drawn out with the stalks, by pressing the fruit gently 
at the same time; but when this method fails, they must be extracted 
with a new quill, cut round at the end ; those of the very short-stalked, 
turnip-shaped cherry, which abounds, and is remarkably fine in many 
parts of Normandy, and which we have occasionally met with here, 
though it is not, we believe, very abundant in our markets, are easily 
removed with a large pin, on the point of which the stone may be caught 
at the stalk end, just opposite the seam of the fruit, and drawn out at 
the top, leaving the cherry apparently entire. 

dried cherries ; (superior Receipt.) 
To each pound of cherries, weighed after they are stoned, add eight 
ounces of good sugar, and boil them very softly for ten minutes; pour 
them into a large bowl, or pan, and leave them two days in the syrup ; 
then simmer them again for ten minutes, and set them by for two or 
three days; drain them slightly, and dry them very slowly, as directed 
in the previous receipts. Keep them in tin cases, or canisters, when 
done. These cherries are generally preferred to such as are dried with 
a larger proportion of sugar; but when the taste is in favour of the lat- 
ter, three quarters or a full pound can be allowed to the pound of fruit, 
which may then be potted in the syrup and dried at any time, though 
we think the flavour of the cherries is better preserved when this is 
done within a fortnight of their being boiled. 

Cherries, stoned, 8 lbs.; sugar, 4 lbs.: 10 minutes. Left 2 or 3 
days. Boiled again, 10 minutes; left 2 days; drained and dried. 



CHAP. XXI.] PRESERVES. 335 

CHERRIES DRIED WITHOUT SUGAR. 

These are often more pleasant and refreshing to invalids and travel- 
lers than a sweetened confection of the fruit, their flavour and agreea- 
ble acidity being well preserved when they are simply spread on dishes 
or hamper lids, and slowly dried.* Throw aside the bruised and de- 
cayed fruit, and arrange the remainder singly, and with the stalks up- 
permost on the dishes. 

MORELLA CHERRIES. 

Take off the stalks but do not stone the fruit; weigh and add to it an 
equal quantity of the best sugar reduced quite to powder, strew it over 
the cherries and let them stand for half an hour, then turn them gently 
into a preserving-pan, and simmer them softly from five to seven mi- 
nutes. 

COMMON CHERRY CHEESE. 

Stone the fruit, or if this trouble be objected to, bruise and boil it 
without, until it is sufficiently tender to press through a sieve, which it 
will be in from twenty to thirty minutes. Weigh the pulp in this case, 
and boil it quickly to a dry paste, then stir to it six ounces of sugar for 
the pound of fruit, and when this is dissolved, place the pan again 
over, but not upon, a brisk fire, and stir the preserve without ceasing, 
until it is so dry as not to adhere to the finger when touched ; then 
press it immediately into small moulds or pans, and turn it from them 
when wanted for table. When the cherries have been stoned, a good 
common preserve may be made of them without passing them through 
a sieve, with the addition of five ounces of sugar to the pound of fruit, 
which must be boiled very dry both before and after it is added. 

Other cherries without stoning: 20 to 30 minutes. Passed through 
a sieve. To each pound of pulp (first boiled dry), 6 ozs. sugar. To 
each pound of cherries stoned and boiled to dry paste, 5 ozs. sugar. 

CHERRY PASTE. (FRENCH.) 

Stone the cherries, boil them gently in their own juice for thirty 
minutes ; press the whole through a sieve ; reduce it to a very dry 
paste ; then take it from the fire, and weigh it ; boil an equal propor- 
tion of sugar to the candying point, mix the fruit with it, and stir the 
paste, without intermission, over a moderate fire, until it is again so dry 
as to form a ball round the spoon, and to quit the preserving-pan en- 
tirely ; press it quickly into small moulds, and when it is cold, paper, 
and store it like other preserves. 

STRAWBERRY JAM. 

Strip the stalks from some fine scarlet strawberries, weigh, and boil 
them for thirty-five minutes, keeping them very constantly stirred ; 
throw in eight ounces of good sugar, beaten small, to the pound of 
fruit, mix them well off the fire, then boil the preserve again quickly 
for twenty-five minutes. One pound of white currant-juice added in 
the first instance to four of the strawberries, will greatly improve this 
preserve, which will be quite firm, and sufficiently, but not over sweet. 

Strawberries, 6 lbs.: 35 minutes. Sugar, 3 lbs. : 25 minutes. Or: 



* The dishes on which they are laid should he changed daily. 



336 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XXI. 

strawberries, 4 lbs. ; currant-juice, 1 lb. : 30 to 35 minutes. Sugar, 2$ 
lbs. : 25 minutes. 

Obs. — We do not tbink it needful to give directions with each sepa- 
rate receipt tor skimming the preserve with care, and keeping it con- 
stantly stirred, but neither should in any case be neglected. 

STRAWBERRY JELLY. 

This, when made with fine, full-flavoured, scarlet strawberries, is a 
very delicious preserve, and is by many persons preferred to guava 
jelly, which it greatly resembles. Stalk the fruit, bruise it very 
slightly, and stir it for a few minutes over a gentle fire ; strain it with- 
out pressure, weigh, and boil it quickly for twenty minutes in a Ger- 
man enamelled stewpan, or preserving-pan, if possible, that the colour 
may not be injured ; take it from the fire, and stir into it twelve ounces 
of sugar to the pound of juice ; when this is dissolved, boil it again 
quickly for twenty minutes, clear it perfectly from scum, and pour it 
into jars or glasses. The preserve will be firmer, and require less boil- 
ing, if one-fourth of red or white currant juice be mixed with that of 
the strawberries, but the flavour will not then be quite so perfect. A 
superior jelly to this is made by taking an equal weight of juice and 
sugar, and by boiling the latter to candy-height, before the juice (which 
should previously be boiled five minutes) is added to it ; and when they 
have been stirred together off the fire until this is entirely dissolved, 
boiling the whole quickly from ten to twenty minutes; the time re- 
quired varying very much from the difference which is found in the 
quality of the fruit. 

Fruit, simmered 4 to 5 minutes. Juice of strawberries, 4 lbs. : 20 
minutes. Sugar, 3 lbs. : 20 minutes. Or, juice of strawberries, 4 lbs. : 
5 minutes. Sugar, boiled to candy-height, 4 lbs. : 10 to 20 minutes. 

ANOTHER VERY FINE STRAWBERRY JELLY. 

Express the juice from the fruit through a cloth, strain it clear, weigh, 
and stir to it an equal proportion of the finest sugar, dried and reduced 
to powder; when this is dissolved, place the preserving-pan over a very 
clear fire, and stir the jelly often until it boils; clear it carefully from 
scum, and boil it quickly from fifteen to twenty-five minutes. 

Equal weight of strawberry-juice and sugar: 15 to 25 minutes. 

Obs. — This receipt is for a moderate quantity of the preserve : a very 
small portion will require much less time. 

TO PRESERVE STRAWBERRIES OR RASPBERRIES, FOR CREAMS OR ICES, 
WITHOUT BOILING. 

Let the fruit be gathered in the middle of a warm day, in very dry 
weather; strip it from the stalks directly, weigh it, turn it into a bowl 
or deep pan, and bruise it gently ; mix with an equal weight of fine dry 
sifted sugar, and put it immediately into small, wide-necked bottles"; 
cork these firmly without delay, and tie bladder over the tops. Keep 
them in a cool place, or the fruit will ferment. The mixture should be 
stirred softly, and only just sufficiently to blend the sugar and the fruit. 
The bottles must be perfectly dry, and the bladders, after having been 
cleaned in the usual way, and allowed to become nearly so, should be 
moistened with a little spirit on the side which is to be next to the cork. 



CHAP. XXI.] PRESERVES. 337 

Unless these precautions be observed, there will ne some danger of the 
whole being- spoiled. 

Equal weight of fruit and sugar. 

RASPBERRY JAM. 

Bruise gently, with the back of a wooden spoon, six pounds of ripe 
and freshly-gathered raspberries, and boil them over a brisk fire for 
twenty-five minutes; stir to them half their weight of good sugar, 
roughly powdered, and when it is dissolved, boil the preserve quickly 
for ten minutes, keeping it well stirred and skimmed. When a richer 
jam is wished for, add to the fruit at first its full weight of sugar, and 
boil them together twenty minutes. 

Raspberries, 6 lbs. : 25 minutes. Sugar, 3 lbs. : 10 minutes. 

GOOD RED OR WHITE RASPBERRY JAM. 

Boil quickly, for twenty minutes, four pounds of either red or white 
sound ripe raspberries in a pound and a half of currant-juice of the 
same colour; take the pan from the fire, stir in three pounds of sugar, 
and when it is dissolved, place the pan again over the fire, and con- 
tinue the boiling for ten minutes longer : keep the preserve well skim- 
med and stirred from the beginning. 

Raspberries, 4 lbs. ; currant-juice, 1| lb. : 20 minutes. Sugar, 3 lbs. ; 
10 minutes. 

RASPBERRY JELLY FOR FLAVOURING CREAMS. 

Take the stalks from some quite ripe, and freshly-gathered raspber- 
ries, stir them over the fire until they render their juice freely, then 
strain and weigh it ; or press it from them through a cloth, and then 
strain it clear; in either case boil it for five minutes after it is weighed, 
and for each pound stir in a pound and a quarter of good sugar, reduced 
quite to powder, sifted, and made very hot; boil the preserve quickly 
for five minutes longer, and skim it clean. The jelly thus made will 
sufficiently sweeten the creams without any additional sugar. 

Juice of raspberries, 4 lbs. : 5 minutes. Sugar, made not, 5 lbs. : 5 
minutes. 

ANOTHER RASPBERRRY JELLY. ( Very good.) 

Bruise the fruit a little, and draw the juice from it by four or five 
minutes gently simmering; strain and weigh it, boil it quickly for 
twenty minutes, draw it from the fire, add three-quarters of a pound of 
good sugar for each pound of juice, and when this is dissolved, place the 
pan again on the fire, and boil the preserve fast from twelve to fifteen 
minutes longer; skim it thoroughly, and keep it well stirred. This 
jelly is infinitely improved in colour and in firmness, though not per- 
haps in flavour, by mixing with the raspberry juice one-fourth, or even 
as much as a third of the juice of ripe white currants : the preserve will 
then require rather less boiling. When it jellies in falling from the 
spoon or skimmer, it is done. Nothing of tin or iron should be used in 
making it, as these metals will convert its fine red colour into a dingy 
purple. 

Fruit, simmered 5' to 6 minutes. Juice of raspberries, 4 lbs. : 20 mi- 
nutes. Sugar, 3 lbs. : 12 to 15 minutes. Or, juice of raspberries, 4 
lbs.; juice of white currants, 2 lbs.: 20 minutes. Sugar, 4£ lbs.: 10 
minutes, or less. 
21 



338 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XXI 

GREEN CURRANT JAM. 

For each pound of currants take fourteen ounces of good sugar, in 
fine powder; bruise part of the fruit with a small portion of the sugar, 
and put it first into the preserving-pan, that the juice may flow from it 
sufficiently to prevent the remainder from being burned; it should be 
placed over a very gentle fire, and stirred constantly until it has yielded 
moisture enough for this. All the fruit and sugar may then be added, 
and the whole (well mixed and stirred) boiled from ten to fifteen mi- 
nutes, or until it jellies strongly in falling from the skimmer. Some 
fruit will require less time, and some rather more. 

To each pound of currants, stripped from stalks, 14 ozs. of sugar: 10 
to 15 minutes. 

RED CURRANT JELLY. 

With three parts of line ripe red currants freshly gathered, and 
stripped from the stalks, mix one of white currants; put them into a 
clean preserving-pan, and stir them gently over a clear fire until the 
juice flows from them freely; then turn them into a fine hair-sieve, and 
let them drain well, but without pressure. Pass the juice through a 
folded muslin, or a jelly-bag ; weigh it, and then boil it fast for a quar- 
ter of an hour ; add for each pound, eight ounces of sugar coarsely pow- 
dered, stir this to it off the fire until it is dissolved, give the jelly eight 
minutes more of quick boiling, and pour it out. It will be firm, and of 
excellent colour and flavour. Be sure to clear off the scum as it rises 
both before and after the sugar is put in, or the preserve will not be 
clear. 

Juice of red currants, 3 lbs. ; juice of white currants, 1 lb.: 15 mi- 
nutes. Sugar, 2 lbs. : 8 minutes. 

06s. — An excellent jelly may be made with equal parts of the juice 
of red and of white currants, and of raspberries, with the same propor- 
tion of sugar and degree of boiling as in the foregoing receipt. 

superlative red currant jelly ; (Normayi Receipt.) 
Strip carefully from the stems some quite-ripe currants of the finest 
quality, and mix with them an equal weight of good sugar reduced to 
powder; boil these together quickly for exactly eig^ht minutes, keep 
them stirred all the time, and clear off the scum as it rises; then turn 
the preserve into a very clean sieve, and put into small jars the jelly 
which runs through it, and which will be delicious in flavour, and of 
the brightest colour. It should be carried immediately, when this is 
practicable, to an extremely cool but not a damp place, and left there 
till perfectly cold. The currants which remain in the sieve make an 
excellent jam, particularly if only part of the jelly be taken from them. 
In Normandy, where the fruit is of richer quality than in England, this 
preserve is boiled only one minute, and is both firm and beautifully 
transparent. 

Currants, 3 lbs. ; sugar, 3 lbs. : 8 minutes. 

FRENCH CURRANT JELLY. 

Mix one third of white currants with two of red, and stir them over 
a gentle fire until they render their juice freely, pour it from them, 
strain and weigh it; for every four pounds break three of fine sugar 
into large lump*; }vM dip them into cold water, and when they are 



*:hap. XXI.] PRESERVES. 339 

nearly dissolved boil them to a thick syrup; stir this without ceasing 
until it falls in large thick white masses from the skimmer ; then pour 
in the currant juice immediately, and when the sugar is again dissolved, 
boil the whole quickly for five minutes, clear oft' the scum perfectly, 
pour the jelly into jars or warm glasses, and set it in a cool place. 

Red currants, two thirds; white currants, one third; juice, 4 lbs.; 
sugar boiled to candy height, 3 lbs. ; jelly boiled : 5 minutes. 

Obs. — A flavouring of raspberries is usually given to currant jelly in 
France, the preserve being there never served with any kind of joint, 
as it is with us. 

DELICIOUS RED CURRANT JAM. 

This, which is but an indifferent preserve when made in the usual 
way, will be found a very fine one if the following directions for it be 
observed ; it will be extremely transparent and bright in colour, and 
will retain perfectly the flavour of the fruit. Take the currants at the 
height of their season, the finest that can be had, free from dust, but 
gathered on a dry day ; strip them with great care from the stalks, 
weigh and put them into a preserving-pan with three pounds of the best 
sugar reduced to powder to four pounds of the fruit ; stir them gently 
over a brisk clear fire, and boil them quickly for exactly eight minutes 
from the first full boil. As the jam is apt to rise over the top of the 
pan, it is better not to fill it more than two thirds, and if this precaution 
should not be sufficient to prevent it, it must be lifted from the fire and 
held away for an instant. To many tastes, a still finer jam than this 
(which we find sufficiently sweet) may be made with an equal weight 
of fruit and sugar boiled together for seven minutes. There should be 
great exactness with respect to the time, as both the flavour and the 
brilliant colour of the preserve will be injured by longer boiling. 

Red currants (without stalks), 4 lbs. ; fine sugar, 3 lbs. : boiled 
quickly, 8 minutes. Or, equal weight fruit and sugar: 7 minutes. 

VERY FINE WHITE CURRANT JELLY. 

The fruit for this jelly should be very white, perfectly free from dust, 
and picked carefully from the stalks. To every pound add eighteen 
ounces of double refined sifted sugar, and boil them together quickly for 
six minutes ; throw in the strained juice of a sound fresh lemon, or of 
two, should the quantity of preserve be large ; boil it two minutes 
longer; pour it into a delicately clean sieve, and finish it by the direc- 
tions given for the Norman red currant jelly (page 338). 

White currants, 6 lbs. ; highly refined sugar, 6j lbs. : 6 minutes. 
Juice of 2 moderate-sized lemons : 2 minutes. 

WHITE CURRANT JAM, A BEAUTIFUL PRESERVE. 

Boil together quickly for seven minutes equal quantities of fine white 
currants, picked with the greatest nicety, and of the best sugar pounded 
and passed through a sieve. Stir the preserve gently the whole time, 
and be careful to skim it thoroughly. Just before it is taken from the 
fire, throw in the strained juice of one good lemon to four pounds of the 
fruit. 

White currants, 4 lbs. ; best sugar, 4 lbs. : 7 minutes. Juice, 1 lemon. 

CURRANT PASTE. 

Stalk and heat some red currants as for jelly, pour off three parts ot 



340 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XXI. 

the juice, which can be used for that preserve, and press the remainder, 
with the pulp of the fruit, closely through- a hair-sieve reversed ; boil it 
briskly, keeping it stirred the whole time, until it forms a dry paste ; 
then for each pound (when first weighed) add seven ounces of pounded 
sugar, and boil the whole from twenty-five to thirty minutes longer, 
taking care that it shall not burn. This paste is remarkably pleasant 
and refreshing in cases of fever, and acceptable usually for winter- 
desserts. 

Red currants boiled from 5 to 7 minutes, pressed with one-fourth of 
their juice through a sieve, boiled from 1J t<. 2 hours. To each pound 
add 7 ozs. pounded sugar : 25 to 30 minutes. 

Obs. — Confectioners add the pulp, after it is boiled dry, to an equal 
weight of sugar at the candy height : by making trial of the two 
methods, the reader can decide on the better one. 

BLACK CURRANT JELLY. 

After having extracted the juice of the fruit in the usual way, pro- 
ceed exactly with regard to the time of boiling, and the proportion of 
sugar as in the first receipt for red currant jelly in the present chapter. 
This is a most refreshing and useful preserve in illness ; and in many 
cases no other will supply its place : it may be made with Lisbon sugar 
on occasion. 

NURSERY PRESERVE. 

Take the stones from a couple of pounds of cherries, and boil them 
twenty minutes ; then add to them a pound and a half of raspberries, 
and an equal quantity of red and of white currants, all weighed after 
they have been cleared from their stems. Boil these together briskly 
for twenty minutes; mix with them three pounds and a quarter of com- 
mon sugar, and give the preserve fifteen minutes more of quick boiling. 
A pound and a half of blackberries may be substituted for the cherries; 
but they will not require any stewing before they are added to the other 
fruits. The jam must be well stirred from the beginning, or it will burn 
to the pan. 

Cherries, 2 lbs. : 20 minutes. Raspberries, red currants, and white 
currants, of each 1^ lb. : 20 minutes. Sugar, 3£ lbs. : 15 minutes. 

ANOTHER GOOD COMMON PRESERVE. 

Boil together, in equal or in unequal portions (for this is immaterial), 
any kinds of early fruit, till they can be pressed through a sieve; weigh, 
and then boil the pulp over a brisk fire for half an hour; add half a 
pound of sugar for each pound of fruit, and again boil the preserve 
quickly, keeping it well stirred and skimmed, from fifteen to twenty 
minutes. Cherries, unless they be morellas, must be first stewed ten- 
der apart, as they will require a much longer time to make them so 
than other of the first summer fruits. 

A GOOD MELANGE, OR MIXED PRESERVE. 

Boil for three quarters of an hour, in two pounds of clear red currant, 
juice, one pound of very ripe greengages, weighed after they have been 
pared and stoned; then stir to them one pound and a half of good sugar, 
and boil them quickly again for twenty minutes. If the quantity of pre- 
serve be much increased, the time of boiling it must be so likewise: 
this is always better done before the sugar is added. 



CHAP. XXI.] PRESERVES. 341 

Juice of ripe currants, 2 lbs. ; greengages, pared and stoned, 1 lb. : £ 
hour. Sugar, 1^ lb. : 20 minutes. 

GREENGAGE JAM, OR MARMALADE. 

When the plums are thoroughly ripe, take off the skins, weigh, and 
boil them quickly without sugar for fifty minutes, keeping them well 
stirred ; then to every four pounds add three of good sugar reduced 
quite to powder, boil the preserve from five to eight minutes longer, and 
clear off the scum perfectly before it is poured into the jars. When the 
flesh of the fruit will not separate easily from the stones, weigh and 
throw the plums whole into the preserving-pan, boil them to a pulp, 
pass them through a sieve, and deduct the weight of the stones from 
them when apportioning the sugar to the jam. The Orleans plum may 
be substituted for greengages, in this receipt. 

Greengages, stoned and skinned, 6 lbs. : 50 minutes. Sugar, 4^ lbs. ; 
5 to 8 minutes. 

PRESERVE OF THE MAGNUM BONUM, OR MOGUL PLUM. 

Prepare, weigh, and boil the plums for forty minutes ; stir to them 
half their weight of good sugar beaten fine, and when it is dissolved 
continue the boiling for ten additional minutes, and skim the preserve 
carefully during the time. This is an excellent marmalade, but it may 
be rendered richer by increasing the proportion of sugar. The blanched 
kernels of a portion of the fruit-stones will much improve its flavour, 
but they should be mixed with it only two or three minutes before it is 
taken from the fire. When these plums are not entirely ripe, it is diffi- 
cult to free them from the stones and skins : they should then be boiled 
down and pressed through a sieve, as directed for greengages, in the 
receipt above. 

Mogul plums, skinned and stoned, 6 lbs : 40 minutes. Sugar, 3 lbs. : 
5 to 8 minutes. 

TO DRY OR PRESERVE MOGUL PLUMS IN SYRUP. 

Pare the plums, but do not remove the stalks nor stones; take their 
weight of dry sifted sugar, lay them in a deep dish or bowl, and strew 
it over them ; let them remain thus for a night, then pour them gently 
into a preserving-pan, with all the sugar, heat them slowly, and let 
them just simmer for five minutes; in a couple of days repeat the pro- 
cess, and do so again and again at an interval of two or three days, until 
the fruit is tender and very clear ; put it then into jars, and keep it in 
the syrup, or drain and dry the plums very gradually, as directed for 
other fruit. When they are not sufficiently ripe for the skin to part 
from them easily, they must be covered with spring water, placed over 
a slow fire, and just scalded until it can be stripped off easily. 

MUSSEL PLUM CHEESE AND JELLY. 

Fill large stone jars with the fruit, which should be ripe, dry, and 
sound, set them into an oven from which the bread has been drawn 
several hours, and let them remain all night ; or, if this cannot conve- 
niently be done, place them in pans of water, and boil them gently until 
the plums are tender, and have yielded their juice to the utmost. Pour 
this from them, strain it through a jelly-bag, weigh, and then boil it 
rapidly for twenty-five minutes. Have ready, broken small, tnree 



342 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XXI. 

pounds of sugar for four of the juice, stir them together until it is dis- 
solved, and then continue the boiling quickly for ten minutes longer, 
and be careful to remove all the scum. Pour the preserve into small 
moulds or pans, and turn it out when it is wanted for table; it will be 
very fine, both in colour and in flavour. 

Juice of plums, 4 lbs. : 25 minutes. Sugar, 3 lbs. : 10 minutes. 

The cheese. — Skin and stone the plums from which the juice has 
been poured, and after having weighed, boil them an hour and a quarter 
over a brisk fire, and stir them constantly; then to three pounds of 
fruit add one of sugar, beaten to powder; boil the preserve for another 
half hour, and press it into shallow pans or moulds. 

Plums, 3 lbs. : 1^ hour. Sugar, 1 lb. : 30 minutes. 

to dry apricots; (a quick and easy method.) 
Wipe gently, split, and stone some fine apricots, which are not over- 
ripe ; weigh, and arrange them evenly in a deep dish or bowl, and 
strew in fourteen ounces of sugar, in fine powder, to each pound of 
fruit; on the following day turn the whole carefully into a preservinof- 
pan, let the apricots heat slowly, and simmer them very softly for six 
minutes, or for an instant longer, should they not in that time be quite 
tender. Let them lay in the syrup for a day or two, then drain and 
spread them singly on dishes to dry. 

To each pound apricots, 14 ozs. of sugar: to stand 1 night, to be sim- 
mered from 6 to 8 minutes, and left in syrup 2 or 3 days. 

PEACH JAM, OR MARMALADE. 

The fruit for this preserve, which is a very delicious one, should be 
finely flavoured, and quite ripe, though perfectly sound. Pare, stone, 
weigh, and boil it quickly for three quarters of an hour, and do not fail 
to stir it often during the time ; draw it from the fire, and mix with it 
ten ounces of well-refined sugar, rolled or beaten to powder, for each 
pound of the peaches; clear it carefully from scum, and boil it briskly 
for five minutes ; throw in the strained juice of one or two good lemons ; 
continue the boiling for three minutes only, and pour out the marma- 
lade. Two minutes after the sugar is stirred to the fruit, add the 
blanched' kernels of part of the peaches. 

Peaches, stoned and pared, 4 lbs. : f hour. Sugar, 2J lbs. : 2 min- 
utes. Blanched peach-kernels: 3 minutes. Juice of 2 small lemons: 
3 minutes. 

Obs. — This jam, like most others, is improved by pressing the fruit 
through a sieve after it has been partially boiled. Nothing can be finer 
than its flavour, which would be injured by adding the sugar at first; 
and a larger proportion renders it cloyingly sweet. Nectarines and 
peaches mixed, make an admirable preserve. 

TO PRESERVE, OR TO DRY PEACHES OR NECTARINES. {An easy and 

excellent Receipt.) 
The fruit should be fine, freshly gathered, and fully ripe, but still in 
its perfection. Pare, halve, and weigh it after the stones are removed • 
lay it into a deep dish, and strew over it an equal weight of highly 
refined pounded sugar; let it remain until this is nearly dissolved, then 
Jifl the fruit gently into a preserving-pan, pour the juice and sugar to it 



CHAP. XXI.] PRESERVES. 343 

and heat the whole over a very slow fire ; let it just simmer for ten 
minutes, then turn it softly into a bowl, and let it remain a couple of 
days; repeat the slow-heating- and simmering at intervals of two or 
three days, until the fruit is quite clear, when it may be potted in the 
syrup, or drained from it, and dried upon large clean slates or dishes, or 
upon wire-sieves. The flavour will be excellent. The strained juice 
of a lemon may be added to the syrup, with good effect, towards the 
end of the process, and an additional ounce or two of sugar allowed 
for it 

DAMSON JAM. (VERY GOOD.) 

The fruit for this jam should be freshly gathered and quite ripe. 
Split, stone, weigh, and boil it quickly for forty minutes ; then stir in 
half its weight of good sugar roughly powdered, and when it is dis- 
solved, give the preserve fifteen minutes additional boiling, keeping it 
stirred, and thoroughly skimmed. 

Damsons, stoned, 6 lbs. : 40 minutes. Sugar, 3 lbs. : 15 minutes. 

Obs. — A more refined preserve is made by pressing the fruit through 
a sieve after it is boiled tender; but the jam is excellent without. 

DAMSON JELLY. 

Bake separately in a very slow oven, or boil in a water-bath (see 
page 332), any number of fine ripe damsons, and one third the quantity 
of bullaces, or of any other pale plums, as a portion of their juice will, 
to most tastes, improve, by softening the flavour of the preserve, and 
will render the colour brighter. Pour off the juice clear from the fruit, 
strain and weigh it; boil it quickly without sugar for twenty-five min- 
utes, draw it from the fire, stir into it ten ounces of good sugar for each 
pound of juice, and boil it quickly from six to ten minutes longer, care- 
fully clearing off all the scum. The jelly must be often stirred before 
the sugar is added, and constantly afterwards. 

DAMSON SOLID. (GOOD.) 

Pour the juice from some damsons which have stood for a night in a 
very cool overf, or been stewed in a jar placed in a pan of water ; weigh 
and put it into a preserving-pan with a pound and four ounces of pear- 
mains (or of any other fine boiling apples), pared, cored, and quartered, 
to each pound of the juice ; boil these together, keeping them well 
stirred, from twenty-five to thirty minutes, then add the sugar, and 
when it is nearly dissolved, continue the boiling for ten minutes. This, 
if done with exactness, will give a perfectly smooth and firm preserve, 
which may be moulded in small shapes, and turned out for table. 

To each pound clear damson-juice, 1} lb. pearmains (or other good 
apples), pared and cored : 25 to 30 minutes. Sugar, 14 ozs. : 10 
minutes. 

EXCELLENT DAMSON CHEESE. 

When the fruit has been baked or stewed tender, as directed above, 
drain off the juice, skin and stone the damsons, pour back to them from 
a third to half their juiee, weigh and then boil them over a clear brisk 
fire until they form a qu ; te dry paste; add six ounces of pounded sugar 
for each pound of the plums; stir them off the fire until this is dissolved, 
and boil the preserve again without quitting or ceasing to stir it, until it 
leaves the pan quite dry, and adheres in a mass to the spoon. If it 



344 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XXI. 

should not stick to the fingers when lightly touched, it will be suffi- 
ciently done to keep very long; press it quickly into pans or moulds; 
lay on it a paper dipped in spirit when it is perfectly cold ; tie another 
fold over it, and store it in a dry place. 

Bullace cheese is made in the same manner, and almost any kind of 
plum will make an agreeable preserve of the sort. 

To each pound of fruit, pared, stoned, and mixed with the juice, and 
boiled quite dry, 6' ozs. of pounded sugar : boiled again to a dry paste. 

GRAPE JELLY. 

Strip from their stalks some fine ripe black-cluster grapes, and stir 
them with a wooden spoon over a gentle fire until all have burst, and 
the juice flows freely from them; strain it off without pressure, and pass 
it through a jelly-bag, or through a twice- folded muslin; weigh and 
then boil it rapidly for twenty minutes ; draw it from the fire, stir in it 
till dissolved, fourteen ounces of good sugar, roughly powdered, to each 
pound of juice, and boil the jelly quickly for fifteen minutes longer, 
keeping it constantly stirred, and perfectly well skimmed. It will be 
very clear, and of a beautiful pale rose-colour. 

Juice of black-cluster grapes : 20 minutes. To each pound of juice, 
14 ozs. good sugar : 15 minutes. 

Obs. — We have proved this jelly only with the kind of grape which 
we have named, but there is little doubt that fine purple grapes of any 
sort would answer for it well. 

ENGLISH GUAVA. 

Strip the stalks from a gallon or two of the large kind of bullaces 
called the shepherd's bullace ; give part of them a cut, put them into 
stone jars, and throw into one of them a pound or two of imperatrice 
plums, if they can be obtained ; put the jars into pans of water, and 
boil them as directed at page 332; then drain off the juice, pass it 
through a thick strainer or jelly-bag, and weigh it; boil it quickly from 
fifteen to twenty minutes ; take it from the fire, and stir in it till dis- 
solved, three-quarters of a pound of sugar to the pound of juice; remove 
the scum with care, and boil the preserve again quickly from eight to 
twelve minutes, or longer should it not then jelly firmly on the skim- 
mer. When the fruit is very acid, an equal weight of juice and sugar 
may be mixed together in the first instance, and boiled briskly for about 
twenty minutes. It is impossible to indicate the precise time which 
the jelly will require, so much depends on the quality of the plums, and 
on the degree of boiling previously given to them in the water-bath. 
When properly made, it is remarkably transparent and very firm. It 
should be poured into shallow pans or small moulds, and turned from 
thorn before it is served. When the imperatrice plum cannot be pro- 
cured, any other that will give a pale red colour to the juice will 
answer. The bullaces alone make an admirable preserve; and even 
the commoner kind afford an excellent one. 

Juice of the shepherd's bullace and imperatrice, or other red plum, 
4 lbs. : 15 to 20 minutes. Sugar, 3 lbs. : 8 to 12 minutes. Or juice of 
bullaces and sugar, equal weight: 20 minutes. 

Obs. — After the juice has been poured from the plums they may be 
stoned, pared, weighed, and boiled to a paste ; then six ounces of sugar 



CHAP. XXI.] PRESERVES. 345 

added to the pound, and the boiling continued until the preserve is again 
very dry : a small portion of the juice should be left with the fruit for 
this. 

to dry plums ; {an easy method.') 

Put them into jars, or wide-necked bottles, with half a pound of 
good sugar, rolled or pounded, to twice the weight of fruit; set them 
into a very cool oven for four and five hours ; or if more convenient 
place them, with a little hay between them, in a pan of cold water, and 
boil them gently for rather more than three hours. Leave them in the 
syrup for a few days, and finish them as directed for the drying of other 
fruits. Tie a bladder over the necks of the jars or bottles before they 
are placed in the pan of water, and fasten two or three folds of paper 
over the former, or cork the bottles when the fruit is to be baked. The 
sugar should be put in after the fruit, without being shaken down ; it 
will then dissolve gradually, and be absorbed by it equally. 

To each pound of plums, 8 ounces pounded sugar: baked in cool 
oven 4 or 5 hours, or steamed 3 hours. 

TO BOTTLE FRUIT FOR WINTER USE. 

Gather the fruit in the middle of the day in very dry weather ; strip 
off the stalks, and have in readiness some perfectly clean and dry wide- 
necked bottles ; turn each of these the instant before it is filled, with 
the neck downwards, and hold in it two or three lighted matches ; drop 
in the fruit before the vapour escapes, shake it gently down, press in 
some new corks, dip the necks of the bottles into melted rosin, set them 
at night into an oven from which the bread has been drawn six or seven 
hours at least, and' let them remain until the morning: if the heat be 
too great the bottles will burst. Currants, cherries, damsons, green- 
gages, and various other kinds of plums will remain good for quite 
twelve months when bottled thus if stored in a dry place. 

To steam the fruit, put the bottles into a copper or other vessel up to 
their necks in cold water, with a little hay between and under them; 
light the fire, let the water heat slowly, and keep it at the point of 
gentle simmering until the fruit is sufficiently scalded. Some kinds 
will of course require a much longer time than others. From half to 
three-quarters of an hour will be sufficient for gooseberries, currants, 
and raspberries ; but the appearance of all will best denote their being 
done. When they have sunk almost half the depth of the bottles, and 
the skins are shrivelled, extinguish the fire, but leave them in the 
water until it is quite cold ; then wipe and store the bottles in a dry 
olace. A bit of moistened bladder tied over the corks is better than the 
cosin w T hen the fruit is steamed. 

APPLE JELLY. 

Various kinds of apples may be used successfully to make this jelly, 
out the nonsuch is by many persons preferred to all others for the pur- 
pose. The Ripstone pippin, however, may be used for it with very 
good effect, either solely, or with a mixture of pearmains. Jt is neces- 
sary only that the fruit should be finely flavoured, and that it should 
boil easily to a marmalade. Pare, core, quarter, and weigh it quickly 
that it may not lose its colour, and to each pound pour a pint of cold 
water, and boil it until it is well broken, without being reduced to a 



346 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XXI. 

quite thick pulp, as it would then be difficult to render the juice per- 
fectly clear, which it ought to be. Drain this well from the apples, 
either through a fine sieve or a folded muslin strainer, and pass it after- 
wards through a jelly-bag, or turn the fruit at once into the last of 
these, and pour the liquid through a second time if needful. When it 
appears quite transparent, weigh, and reduce it by quick boiling for 
twenty minutes ; draw it from the fire, add two pounds of sugar, broken 
very small, for three of the decoction, stir it till it is entirely dissolved, 
then place the preserving-pan again over a clear fire, and boil the pre- 
serve quickly for ten minutes, or until it jellies firmly upon the skimmer 
when poured from it ; throw in the strained juice of a small lemon for 
every two pounds of jelly, a couple of minutes before it is taken from 
the fire. 

Apples, 7 lbs. ; water, 7 pints : § to full hour. Juice, 6 lbs. : 20 
minutes quick boiling. Sugar, 4 lbs. : 10 to 15 minutes. Juice, 3 
lemons. 

EXCEEDINGLY FINE APPLE JELLY. 

Pare quickly some highly flavoured juicy apples of any kind, or of 
various kinds together, for this is immaterial ; slice, without dividing 
them ; but first free them from the stalks and eyes, shake out some of 
the pips, and put the apples evenly into very clean large stone jars, just 
dipping an occasional layer into cold water as this is done, the better to 
preserve the colour of the whole. Set the jars into pans of water, and 
boil the fruit slowly until it is quite soft, then turn it into a jelly-bag or 
cloth, and let the juice all drop from it. The quantity which it will 
have yielded will be small, but it will be clear and rich. Weigh and 
boil it for ten minutes, then draw it from the fire, and stir into it, until 
it is entirely dissolved, twelve ounces of good sugar to the pound and 
quarter (or pint) of juice. Place the preserve again over the fire and 
stir it without intermission, except to clear off the scum, until it has 
boiled from eight to ten minutes longer, for otherwise it will jelly on 
the surface with the scum upon it, which it "will then be difficult to re- 
move, as when touched it will break and fall into the preserve. The 
strained juice of one small fresh lemon to the pint of jelly should be 
thrown into it two or three minutes before it is poured out, and the rind 
of one or two cut very thin may be simmered in the juice before the 
sugar is added ; but the pale, delicate colour of the jelly will be injured 
by too much of it, and many persons would altogether prefer the pure 
flavour. 

Juice of apples, 1 quart, or 2£ lbs. : 10 minutes. Sugar, 1^ lb. : 8 to 
10 minutes. Juice, 2 small lemons ; rind of 1 or more, at pleasure. 

Obs. 1. — The quantity of apples required for it renders this a rather 
expensive preserve, where they are not abundant; but it is a remarka- 
oly fine jelly, and turns out from the moulds in perfect shape and very 
firm. It may be served in the second course, or for dessert. It is some- 
times made without paring the apples, or dipping them into the water, 
*nd the colour is then a deep red : we have occasionally had a pint of 
water added to about a gallon and a half of apples, but the jelly was 
not then quite so fine in flavour. 

Ohs. 2. — The best time for making this apple-jelly is from the end 
of November to Christmas. 



CHAI\ XXI.] PRESERVES. 347 

Obs. 3. — Quince-jelly would, without doubt, be very fine made by 
this receipt ; but as the juice of that fruit is richer than that of the 
apple, a little water might be added. Alternate layers of apples and 
quinces would also answer well, we think. 

QUINCE JELLY. 

Pare, quarter, core, and weigh some ripe but quite sound quinces, as 
quickly as possible, and throw them as they are done into part of the 
water in which they are to be boiled, as directed at page 305 ; allow 
one pint of this to each pound of the fruit, and simmer it gently until 
it is a little broken, but not so long as to redden the juice, which ought 
to be very pale. Turn the whole into a jelly-bag, or strain the liquid 
through a fine cloth, and let it drain very closely from it, but without 
the slightest pressure. Weigh the juice, put it into a delicately clean 
preserving-pan, and boil it quickly for twenty minutes; take it from the 
fire and stir into it, until it is entirely dissolved, twelve ounces of sugar 
for each pound of juice, or fourteen ounces if the fruit should be very 
acid, which it will be in the earlier part of the season ; keep it con- 
stantly stirred and thoroughly cleared from scum from ten to twenty 
minutes longer, or until it jellies strongly in falling from the skimmer ; 
then pour it directly into glasses or moulds. If properly made, it will 
be sufficiently firm to turn out of the latter, and it will be beautifully 
transparent, and rich in flavour. It may be made with an equal weight 
of juice and sugar mixed together in the first instance, and boiled from 
twenty to thirty minutes. It is difficult to state the time precisely, be- 
cause from different causes it will vary very much. It should be re- 
duced rapidly to the proper point, as long boiling injures the colour: 
this is always more perfectly preserved by boiling the juice without the 
sugar first. 

To each pound pared and cored quinces, 1 pint water: $ to li hour. 
Juice, boiled 20 minutes. To each pound, 12 ozs. sugar: 10 to 20 mi- 
nutes. Or, juice and sugar equal weight: 20 to 30 minutes. 

QUINCE MARMALADE. 

When to economize the fruit is not an object, pare, core, and quar- 
ter some of the inferior quinces, and boil them in as much water as will 
nearly cover them, until they begin to break; strain the juice from 
them, and for the marmalade put half a pint of it to each pound of fresh 
quinces: in preparing these, be careful to cut out the hard stony parts 
round the cores. Simmer them gently until they are perfectly tender, 
then press them, with the juice, through a coarse sieve ; put them into 
a perfectly clean pan, and boil them until they form almost a dry paste ; 
add for each pound of quinces and the half pint of juice, three quarters 
of a pound of sugar, in fine powder, and boil the marmalade for half an 
hour, stirring it gently without ceasing: it will be very firm ana bngut 
in colour. If made shortly after the fruit is gathered, a little additional 
sugar will be required; and when a richer and less dry marmalade is 
better liked, it must be boiled a shorter time, and an equal weight of 
fruit and sugar must be used. 

Quinces, pared and cored, 4 lbs.; prepared juice, 1 quart: 2 to 3 
hours. Boiled fast to dry, 20 to 40 minutes. Sugar, 3 lbs. : 30 mi- 
nutes. 

Richer marmalade: quinces, 4 lbs. ; juice, 1 quart; sugar, 4 lbs. 



MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XXI. 

QUINCE AND APPLE MARMALADE. 

Boil together, from three quarters of an hour to en hour, two poundi 
of pearmains, or of any other well-flavoured apples, in an equal weight 
o( prepared quince-juice (see page o{^). thou take them from the tiro, 
and mix with them a pound ami a halt* ot* sugar, in tine powder; when 
this is a little dissolved, sot the pan again over a brisk tiro, ami boil the 
preserve for twenty minutes longer, keeping it stirred all the time. 

Prepared quince-juice, 2 lbs. ; apples, 2 lbs. : j to 1 hour. Su^-ar, 1^ 
lb.: "JO minutes. 

QUINCE PASTE. 

If the full flavour of the quinces ho desired, stow them sufficiently 
tender to press through a sieve in the prepared juice of page 305; 

otherwise, in just water enough to about three pails cover them ; when 
they are soil quite through, lift them out, let them cool, and then pass 
them through a sieve; reduce them to a dry paste, over a very clear 
fire, and stir them constantly; then weigh the fruit, and mix it with an 
equal proportion of pounded sugar, or with sugar boiled to candy height 
(we find the effect nearly the same, whichever method bo pursued), and 
stir the paste without intermission until it is again so dry as to quit the 
pan and adhere to the spoon in one large ball; press it into shallow 
pans or dishes; cut it, as seen as cold, into small squares, and, should 
they seem to require it, dry them with a very gentle degree of heat, 
and when they are again cold store them in tin cases with well-dried 
foolscap paper between them ; the paste may be moulded, when more 
convenient, and kept until it is wanted for table in a very dry place. 
In France, where the fruit is admirably confected, the p&te des coigti8 % 
or quince paste, is somewhat less boiled than we have directed, and 
dried afterwards in the sun, or in an extremely o-entle oven, in square 
rims of tin, about an inch and a half deep, placed upon clean plates. 

JELLY OF SIBERIAN CRABS. 

This fruit, makes a jelly ot' beautiful colour, and of pleasant flavour 
also; it may bo stored in small moulds of ornamental shape, and turned 
out for a dessert dish. Take off the stalks, weigh, and wash the crabs; 
then, to each pound and a half, add a pint of water, and boil them gently 
until they are broken, but do not allow them to fall to a pulp. Pour the 
whole into a jelly-bag, and when the juice is quite transparent, weigh 
it, put it into a clean preserving- pan, bod it quickly tor ten minutes, 
take it from the tire, and stir in it, till dissolved, ten ounces of fine sugar, 
roughly powdered, to each pound of the juice : boil the jelly from twelve 
to fifteen minutes, skim it very clean, and pour it into the mould. Should 
the quantity he large, a few additional minutes boiling must be given to 
the juice before the sugar is added. 

To each IS lb. of crabs; water, 1 pint: 12 to 18 minutes. Juice to 
be boiled fast, 10 minutes; sugar, to each pound, 10 ozs. : 12 to 15 
minutes. 

TO PRESERVE BARBERRIES IN BUNCHES. 

Take the finest barberries, without stones, that can be procured, tie 
them together in bunches of four or five sprigs, and tor each half pound 
of the fruit (which is extremely light), boil one pound o[' very good 
sugar in a pint of water for twenty minutes, and clear it well from 



CHAP. XXI.] PRESERVES. 349 

■cum; throw in the fruit, let it beat gently, and then boil from five to 
seven minutes, when it, will be perfectly transparent So long ai any 
snapping noise is heard, the fruit, is not at all done; it, should be pi 
equally down into the syrup until the whole of the berries have burst; 
it should then be turned into jars, which must be covered with skin, or 
with two or three folds of thick paper, as soon as the preserve is per- 
fectly cold. The barberries thus prepared make a beautiful garnish for 
sweet dishes, or for custard pud*.' 

Barberries, tied in bunches, Y\ lb. Sugar, 3 lbs.; water, I $ pint: 
20 minutes. Barberries boiled in .syrup, 5 to 7 minutes. 

BARBERRY JELLY. 

To each pound of barberries, stripped from the stalks, put a pint and 
a half of COld water, and boil thern for fifteen iuinut.es; bruise them with 
the back of a wooden spoon, pour them into a hair-sieve or muslin 
strainer, and pass the juice afterwards through a jelly-bag. When it 
appears perfectly clear, weigh and then boil it fast for ten minutes; 

take it from the fire, and stir into if. a;-, many pounds of sugar in fine 

powder as there were pounds of juice; when tins is dissolved, boil the 
jelly again for ten minutes, skim it carefully, and pour if into jars or 
glasses: if into the latter, warm them previously, or the boiling jelly 
may cause them to break. 

Barberries, IJ lbs.; water, 4£ pints: 15 minutes. Juice alone: 10 
minutes. To each pound of juice 1 lb. of sugar: 10 mum' 

barberry jam. (A good Receipt) 

The barberries for tins preserve should be quite ripe, though they 
should not be allowed to hang until they begin to decay. Strip them 
from the stalks, throw aside SUCfl as are spotted, arid for each pound of 
the fruit allow eighteen ounce- of well-refined sugar; boil tin.-, with 
one pint of water to every four pounds, until it become.-; white, and falls 
in thick masses from the spoon; then throw in the fruit, and keep it 
stirred over a ljri.sk fire for six minutes only; take off the scum, and 
pour it into jar.-; or gla 

Sugar, 4 \ lbs.; water, \\ pint, boiled to candy height Barberries, 
4 lb.-. : mill 

barbers? jam. {Second Receipt.) 

The proceeding is an excellent receipt, but the preserve will be very 
good if eighteen ounces of pounded sugar be mixed and boiled with the 
fruit for ten minutes; and tins is done at a small expense of time and 
trouble. 

Sugar pounded, 2| lbs.; fruit, 2 lbs.: boiled 10 minutes. 

VERY OOMMOI BARBEBRT JAM. 
Weigh the fruit after if has been stripped from the stalks, and boil it 

for ten minutes over a moderate fire, keeping it stirred all the time; 

then add to it an equal weight of good Lisbon sugar, and boil the pre- 
serve for five min 

Barberries, 3 lbs. : 10 minute-. 1. bon sugar, 3 lbs. : 5 minutes. 

Obs. — The .-.mall barberry, without stones, must be used for the fore- 
going receipts, but for those which follow either sort will an- 



350 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XXI. 

SUPERIOR BARBERRY JELLY, AND MARMALADE. 

Strip the fruit from the stems, wash it in spring-water, drain, bruise 
it slightly, and put it into a clean stone jar, with no more liquid than 
the drops which hang about it. Place the jar in a pan of water, and 
steam the fruit until is quite tender: this will be in from thirty minutes 
to an hour. Pour off the clear juice, strain, weigh, and boil it fast from 
five to seven minutes, with eighteen ounces of sugar to every pound. 
For the marmalade, press the barberries through a sieve with a wooden 
spoon, and boil them quickly for the same time, and with the same pro- 
portion of sugar as the jelly. 

Barberries boiled in water-bath until tender ; to each pound of juice, 
1 lb. 2 ozs. sugar : 5 minutes. Pulp of fruit, to each pound, 18 ozs. 
sugar : 5 minutes. 

Obs. — We have always had these preserves made with very ripe 
fruit, and have found them extremely good ; but more sugar may be 
needed to sweeten them sufficiently when the barberries have hung 
less time upon the trees. 

ORANGE MARMALADE. 

Rasp very slightly on a fine and delicately clean grater the rinds of 
some sound Seville oranges; cut them in quarters, and separate the 
flesh from the rinds ; then with the small end of a tea, or egg spoon, 
clear it entirely from the pips, and from the loose inner skin and film. 
Put the rinds into a large quantity of cold water, and change it when 
they have boiled about twenty minutes. As soon as they are perfectly 
tender lift them out, and drain them on a sieve ; slice them thin, and 
add eight ounces of them to each pound of the pulp and juice, with a 
pound and a half of highly-refined sugar in fine powder ; boil the 
marmalade quickly for half an hour, skim it well, and turn it into the 
jars. This marmalade has not a very powerful flavour of the orange- 
rind. When more of this is liked, either leave a portion of the fruit 
unrasped, or mix with the preserve some of the zest which has been 
grated off, allowing for it its weight of sugar. Or proceed thus: allow 
to a dozen Seville oranges two fine juicy lemons, and take the weight 
of the whole in sifted sugar, of excellent quality. With a sharp knife 
cut through the rinds just deep enough to allow them to be stripped off 
in quarters with the end of a spoon, and throw them for a night into 
plenty of cold spring-water ; on the following morning boil them suffi- 
ciently tender to aliow the head of a pin to pierce them easily ; then 
drain them well, let them cool, and scrape out the white part of the 
rind, and cut the remainder into thin chips. In the mean time have the 
pulp of the fruit quite cleared from the pips and film; put it with the 
sugar and chips into a preserving-pan, heat it slowly, then boil it from 
twenty to thirty minutes : it will be very rich, good marmalade. The 
sugar, first broken into large lumps, is sometimes made into a very 
thick syrup, with so much water only as will just dissolve it; the pulp 
and juice are in that case boiled in it quickly for ten minutes before 
the chips are added ; and a part of these are pounded and stirred into 
the preserve with the others. March is the proper month for making 
this preserve, the Seville orange being then in perfection. For lemon 
marmalade proceed exactly in the same manner as for this. The whole 
of the rinds of either fruit are pounded to a paste, and then boiled with 
the pulp, to make what is called transparent marmalade. 



CHAP. XXI.] PRESERVES. 351 

Rinds of Seville oranges, lightly rasped and boiled tender, 2 lbs.; 
pulp and juice, 4 lbs. ; sugar, 6 lbs. : i hour. Or, weight of oranges, 
first taken in sugar, and added, with all the rinds, to the pulp after the 
whole has been properly prepared. 

GENUINE SCOTCH MARMALADE. 

" Take some bitter oranges, and double their weight of sugar ; cut 
the rind of the fruit into quarters and peel it off, and if the marmalade 
be not wanted very thick, take off some of the spongy white skin in- 
side the rind. Cut the chips as thiu as possible, and about half an inch 
long, and divide the pulp into small bits, removing carefully the seeds, 
which may be steeped in part of the water that is to make the marma- 
lade, and which must be in the proportion of a quart to a pound of fruit. 
Put the chips and pulp into a deep earthen dish, and pour the water 
boiling over them; let them remain for twelve or fourteen hours, and 
then turn the whole into the preserving-pan, and boil it until the chips 
are perfectly tender. When they are so, add by degrees the sugar 
(which should be previously pounded), and boil the marmalade until it 
jellies. The water in which the seeds have been steeped, and which 
must be taken from the quantity apportioned to the whole of the pre- 
serve, should be poured into a hair-sieve, and the seeds well worked in 
it with the back of a spoon ; a strong clear jelly will be obtained by 
this means, which must be washed off them by pouring their own liquor 
through the sieve in small portions over them. This must be added to 
the fruit when it is first set on the fire. 

Oranges, 3 lbs. ; water, 3 quarts ; sugar, 6 lbs. 

Obs. — This receipt, which we have not tried ourselves, is guarantied 
as an excellent one by the Scotch lady from whom it was procured. 

ORANGE CONSERVE FOR PUDDINGS. 

Wash and then soak in plenty of spring-water for three days, chang- 
ing it night and morning, half a dozen Seville oranges ; then boil them 
till they are sufficiently tender for the head of a pin to pierce them 
easily ; drain and weigh them, and for each pound take and reduce to 
fine powder two pounds of good sugar. Cut the oranges asunder, and 
remove the pips and the coarse loose skin of the cores ; then beat them, 
with the sugar, in a large mortar, and pick out as this is done any pits 
of fibre or coarse inner skin which cannot be reduced to a paste. When 
the whole forms a smooth conserve, put it into small jars for use, as it 
requires no boiling after the fruit and sugar are mixed : if stored in a 
dry place, it will remain good for two years. Each orange should be 
tied in a thin small cloth or a bit of muslin when it is boiled, and the 
water should be changed once (or even twice when the fine aromatic 
bitter of the rind is altogether objected to), or the fruit may be lifted 
from the water and thrown immediately into another pan containing 
more which is ready boiling. Two tablespoonsful of this conserve, 
with the yolks of five or six eggs, a couple of ounces of sugar, and as 
much clarified butter smoothly mixed and well beaten together, wiL 
make good cheesecakes, or an excellent but not large pudding: the 
same proportion will be found an agreeable addition to a plum-pudding 
also. 

Seville oranges, boiled tender, 2 lbs. ; sugar, 4 lbs. ; beaten together, 
not boiled. 



352 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XXII. 



CHAPTER XXII. 
PICKLES. 

OBSERVATIONS ON PICKLES. 

The first requisite in making- pickles is to have unadulterated vine- 
gar, for all the expense and trouble bestowed upon them is often 
entirely lost in consequence of ingredients being mixed with this which 
soften, and sometimes even partially decompose, the substances im- 
mersed in it. That which is home-made is generally found for all pur- 
poses to answer best, and it may be prepared of almost any degree of 
strength by increasing the ordinary proportion of fruit and sugar, or 
whatever else may be used for it. The refuse of raisin-wine, and 
green gooseberries, may both be converted into excellent vinegar: but 
unless the pickles be quite covered with their liquor, and well protected 
from the air, and from the influence of damp, which is more than any- 
thing destructive of them, the purity of the vinegar will not preserve 
them eatable. We can confidently recommend to the reader the 
rather limited number of receipts which follow, and which might 
easily be multiplied did the size of our volume permit. Pickling is so 
easy a process, however, that when in any degree properly acquired, it 
may be extended to almost every kind of fruit and vegetable success- 
fully. A few of the choicer kinds will nevertheless be found generally 
more acceptable than a greater variety of inferior preparations. Mush- 
rooms, gherkins, walnuts, lemons, eschalots, and peaches, for all of 
which we have g-iven minute directions, will furnish as much choice as 
is commonly required. 

TO PICKLE CHERRIES. 

Leave about an inch of their stalks on some fine, sound cherries, that 
are not over-ripe ; put them into a jar, cover them with cold vinegar, 
and let them stand for three weeks ; pour off two-thirds of the liquor 
and replace it with fresh vinegar ; then, after having drained it 
from the fruit, boil the whole with an ounce of coriander seed, a small 
blade of mace, a few grains of cayenne, or a teaspoonful of white pep- 
percorns, and four bruised cochineals to every quart, all tied loosely in a 
fold of muslin. Let the pickle become quite cold before it is added to 
the cherries : in a month they will be fit for use. The vinegar which 
is poured from the fruit makes a good syrup of itself when boiled with 
a pound of sugar to the pint, but it is improved by having some fresh 
raspberries, cherries, or currants previously infused in it for three or 
four 



TO PICKLE GHERKINS,* OR CUCUMBERS. 

Let the gherkins be gathered on a dry day, before the frost has 
touched them ; take off the blossoms, put them into a stone jar, and pour 
over them sufficient boiling brine to cover them well. The following' 
day take them out, wipe them singly, lay them into a clean stone jar, 

* Small cucumbers. All cucumbers may be pickled in the samn way. 



CHAP. XXII.] PICKLES. 353 

with a dozen bay-leaves over them, and pour upon them the following- 
pickle, when it is boiling fast: as much vinegar as will more than cover 
the gherkins by an inch or two, with an ounce and a quarter of salt, a 
quarter-ounce of black peppercorns, an ounce and a half of ginger 
sliced, or slightly bruised, and two small blades of mace to every quart; 
put a plate over the jar, and leave it lor two days, then drain off the 
vinegar, and heat it afresh : when it boils, throw in the gherkins, and 
keep them just on the point of simmering for two or three minutes ; 
pour the whole back into the jar, put the plate again upon it, and let it 
remain until the pickle is quite cold, when a skin, or two separate folds 
of thick brown paper, must be tied closely over it. The gherkins thus 
pickled are very crisp, and excellent in flavour, and the colour is suffi- 
ciently good to satisfy the prudent housekeeper, to whom the brilliant 
and poisonous green produced by boiling the vinegar in a brass skillet 
(a process constantly recommended in books of cookery) is anything 
but attractive. To satisfy ourselves of the effect produced by the action 
of the acid on the metal, we had a few gherkins thrown into some 
vinegar which was boiling in a brass pan, and nothing could be more 
beautiful than the colour which they almost immediately exhibited. 
We fear this dangerous method is too often resorted to in preparing 
pickles for sale. 

Brine to pour on gherkins; — 6 ozs. salt to each quart water: 24 
hours. Pickle : — to each quart vinegar, salt, l£ oz. ; black peppercorns, 
4- oz. ; ginger, sliced or bruised, 1A oz. ; mace, 2 small blades; bay- 
leaves; 24 to 100 gherkins, more when the flavour is liked: 2 days. 
Gherkins simmered in vinegar, 2 to 3 minutes. 

PICKLES. 

Obs. — The quantity of vinegar required to cover the gherkins will 
be shown by that of the brine : so much depends upon their size, that 
it is impossible to direct the measure exactly. A larger proportion of 
spice can be added at pleasure. 

TO PICKLE NASTURTIUMS. 

These should be gathered quite young, and a portion of the buds, 
when very small, should be mixed with them. Prepare a pickle by 
dissolving an ounce and a half of salt in a quart of pale vinegar, and 
throw in the berries as they become fit, from day to day. They are* 
used instead of capers for sauce, and by some persons are preferred to 
them. When purchased for pickling, put them at once into a jar, and 
cover them well with the vinegar. 

TO PICKLE PEACHES. 

Take, at their full growth, just before they begin to ripen, six large 
or eight moderate-sized peaches; wipe the down from them, and put 
them into brine that will float an egg. In three days let them be taken 
out, and drained on a sieve reversed for several hours. Boil in a quart 
of vinegar for ten minutes two ounces of whole white pepper, two of 
ginger slightly bruised, a teaspoonful of salt, two blades of mace, half a 
pound of mustard-seed, and a half-teaspoon ful of cayenne tied in a bit 
of muslin. Lay the peaches into a jar, and pour the boiling pickle on 
them : in two months they will be fit for use. 

Peaches, 6 or 8 : in brine 3 days. Vinegar, 1 quart ; whole white 
29 



354 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XXII. 

pepper, 2 ozs. ; bruised ginger, 2 ozs. ; salt, 1 teaspoonful ; mace, 2 
blades ; mnstard-seed, h lb. : 10 minutes. 

Obs. — The peaches may be converted into excellent mangoes by cut- 
ting out from the stalk-end of each a round of sufficient size to allow 
the stone to be extracted : this should be done after they are taken from 
the brine. They may be filled with very fresh mustard-seed, previously 
washed in a little vinegar ; to this a small portion of garlic, or bruised 
eschalots, cayenne, horse-radish, chilies (the most appropriate of any), 
or spice of any kind may be added, to the taste. The part cut out must 
be replaced, and secured with a packthread crossed over the fruit. 

TO PICKLE MUSHROOMS. 

Select for this purpose, if they can be procured, the smallest buttons 
of the wild or meadow mushrooms, in preference to those which are 
artificially raised, and let them be as freshly gathered as possible. Cut 
the stems off quite close, and clean them with a bit of new flannel 
slightly moistened, and dipped in fine salt; throw them as they are done 
into plenty of spring-water, mixed with a large spoonful of salt, but drain 
them from it quickly afterwards, and lay them into a soft cloth to dry, 
or the moisture which hangs about them will too much weaken the 
pickle. For each quart of the mushrooms thus prepared, take nearly a 
quart of the palest white wine vinegar (this is far superior to the dis- 
tilled vinegar generally used for the purpose, and the variation in the 
colour of the mushrooms will be very slight), and add to it a heaped 
teaspoonful of salt, half an ounce of whole white pepper, an ounce of 
ginger, sliced or lightly bruised, about the fourth of a saltspoonful of 
cayenne, tied in a small bit of muslin, and two large blades of mace ; 
to these may be added half a small nutmeg, sliced ; but too much spice 
will entirely overpower the fine natural flavour of the mushrooms. 
When the pickle boils, throw them in, and boil them in it over a clear 
fire moderately fast from six to nine minutes, or somewhat longer, should 
they not be very small. When they are much disproportioned in size, 
the larger ones should have two minutes boil before the others are thrown 
into the vinegar. As soon as they are tolerably tender, put them at 
once into small stone jars, or into warm wide-necked bottles, and divide 
the spice equally amongst them. The following day, or as soon as they 
are perfectly cold, secure them from the air with large corks, or tie 
skins and paper over them. They should be stored in a dry plaee, and 
guarded from severe frost. When the colour of the mushrooms is more 
considered than the excellence of the pickle, the distilled vinegar can 
be used tor it. The reader may rely upon this receipt as a really good 
one; we have had it many times proved, and it is altogether our own. 

Mushroom-buttons (without the stems), 2 quarts ; palest white wine 
vinegar, short |- gallon; salt, large dessertspoonful, or 1^ oz. ; white 
peppercorns, 1 oz. ; whole ginger, 2 ozs. ; cayenne, small ^ saltspoon- 
ful ; 1 small nutmeg. 

mushrooms in brine; (for winter use.) (Very good.) 

We have had small mushroom-buttons excellently preserved through 
the winter prepared as follows, and we therefore give the exact pro- 
portions which we had used for them, though the same quantity of brine 
would possibly allow of rather more mushrooms in it. Prepare them 
exactly as for the preceding pickle, and measure them after the stems 



CHAP. XXII.] PICKLES. 355 

are taken off! For each quart, boil together for five minutes two quarts 
of water, with half a pound of common white salt, a small dessertspoon- 
ful of white peppercorns, a couple of blades of mace, and a race of gin- 
ger; take off the scum thoroughly, and throw in the mushrooms; boil 
them gently for about five minutes, then put them into well-warmed, 
wide-necked bottles, and let them become perfectly cold, pour a little 
good salad oil on the top, cork them with new corks, and tie bladder 
over, or cover them with two separate bladders. When wanted for 
use, soak the mushrooms in warm water till the brine is sufficiently 
extracted. 

Mushrooms, 1 quart; water, h gallon; salt, I lb.; peppercorns, 1 
small dessertspoonful; mace, 2 blades; ginger, 1 race: 5 minutes. 
Mushrooms, in brine, 5 minutes. 

TO PICKLE WALNUTS. 

The walnuts for this pickle must be gathered while a pin can pierce 
them easily, for when once the shell can be felt, they have ceased to be 
in a proper state for it. Make sufficient brine to cover them well, with 
six ounces of salt to the gallon of water; take off the scum, which will 
rise to the surface as the salt dissolves, throw in the walnuts, and stir 
them night and morning; change the brine every three days, and if 
they are wanted for immediate eating, leave them in it for twelve days; 
otherwise, drain them from it in nine, spread them on dishes, and let 
them remain exposed to the air until they become black; this will be in 
twelve hours, or less. Make a pickle for them with something more 
than half a gallon of vinegar to the hundred, a teaspoonful of salt, two 
ounces of black pepper, three of bruised ginger, a drachm of mace, and 
from a quarter to half an ounce of cloves (of which some may be stuck 
into three or four small onions), and four ounces of mustard-seed. Boil 
the whole of these together for about five minutes; have the walnuts 
ready in a stone jar, or jars, and pour it on them as it is taken from the 
fire. When the pickle is quite cold, cover the jar securely, and store it 
in a dry place. Keep the walnuts always well covered with the vine- 
gar, and boil that which is added to them. 

Walnuts, 100; in brine made with 12 ozs. salt to 2 quarts water, and 
changed twice or more, 9 or 12 days. Vinegar, full \ gallon ; salt, 1 
teaspoonful ; whole black pepper, 2 ozs. ; ginger, 3 ozs. ; mace, 1 
drachm ; cloves, £ to \ oz. ; small onions, 4 to 6 ; mustard-seed, 4 ozs. : 
5 minutes. 

TO PICKLE BEET-ROOT. 

Boil the beet-root tender by the directions of page 247, and when it 
is quite cold, pare and slice it ; put it into a jar, and cover it with com- 
mon vinegar previously boiled and allowed to become again perfectly 
cold : it will soon be ready for use. It is excellent when merely covered 
with vinegar. A few small onions may be boiled in the pickle for it 
when their flavour is liked. 

To each quart vinegar, salt, 1 teaspoonful ; cayenne tied in musiin, 
§ saltspoonful, or white peppercorns, \ to whole oz. 

PICKLED ESCHALOTS. 

For a quart of s^ady-peeled eschalots, add to the same quantity of the 
oest pale white-wine vinegar, a dessertspoonful of salt, and an ounce of 



356 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XXII. 

whole white pepper; bring- these quickly to a boil, take off the scum, 
throw in the eschalots, simmer them for two minutes only; turn them 
into a clean stone jar, and when they are quite cold, tie a skin, or two 
folds of thick paper over it. 

Eschalots, 1 quart; vinegar, 1 quart; salt, 1 dessertspoonful; whole 
white pepper, 1 oz. 

Obs. — The sooner the eschalots are pickled after they are ripe and 
dry, the better they will be. 

PICKLED ONIONS. 

Take the smallest onions that can be procured, just after they are 
harvested, for they are never in so good a state for the purpose as then ; 
proceed, after having peeled them, exactly as for the eschalots, and 
when they begin to look clear, which will be in three or tour minutes, 
put them into jars, and pour the pickle on them. The vinegar should 
be very pale, and their colour will then be exceedingly well preserved. 
Any favourite spices can be added to it. 

to pickle lemons and limes ; (excellent.) 

Wipe eight fine sound lemons very clean, and make, at equal dis- 
tances, four deep incisions in each, from the stalk to the blossom end, but 
without dividing the fruit; stuff them with as much salt as they will 
contain, lay them into a deep dish, and place them in a sunny window, 
or in some warm place for a week or ten days, keeping them often 
turned and basted with their own liquor ; then rub them with some good 
pale turmeric, and put them with their juice, into a stone jar with a 
small head of garlic, divided into cloves and peeled, and a dozen small 
onions stuck with twice as many cloves. Boil in two quarts of white- 
wine vinegar, half a pound of ginger lightly bruised, two ounces of 
whole black pepper, and half a pound of mustard-seed ; take them from 
the fire and pour them directly on the lemons ; cover the jar with a 
plate, and let them remain till the following day, then add to the pickle 
half a dozen capsicums (red peppers), and tie a skin and a fold of thick 
paper over the jar. 

Large lemons stuffed with salt, 8 : 8 to 10 days. Turmeric, 1 to 2 
ozs. ; ginger, | lb. ; mustard-seed, | lb. ; capsicums, 6 ozs. 

Obs. — The turmeric and garlic may, we think, be omitted from this 
pickle with advantage. It will remain good for seven years if the 
lemons be kept well covered with vinegar; that which is added to them 
should be boiled and then left till cold before it is poured into the jar. 
The lemons will not be fit for table in less than twelve months; but if 
wanted for more immediate use, set them for one night into a cool oven 
after the bread is drawn; they may then be eaten almost directly. 

Limes must have but slight incisions made in the rinds; and they 
will be sufficiently softened in four or five days. Two ounces of salt 
only will be required for half a dozen; and all which remains unmelted 
must, with their juice, be put into the jar with them before the vinegar 
is poured on : this should be mixed with spice and mustard-seed, and be 
boiling when it is added to the limes. 

TO PICKLE BARBERRIES AND SIBERIAN CRABS. 

When wanted fur garnishing only, take the fruit before it is very 
ripe, cut half the length of their stalks from the crabs, and free the 



CHAP. XXIII.] CAKES. 357 

barberries from the leaves, and from any discoloured berries that may be 
amongst them. Put them into stone jars, and cover them well with 
brine, which has been boiled and left to become perfectly cold. Look 
at them occasionally during the winter, and should any scum or mould 
have gathered on the surface, clear it well off, drain the brine closely 
from the fruit, and fill the jars with some that is freshly made. Six 
ounces of salt, and a morsel of alum half the size of a bean to the quart 
of water should be boiled together for ten minutes, and well skimmed, 
both for the first brine, and for any that may be required afterwards. 

To pickle these fruits in vinegar, add the alum to a sufficient quantity 
to cover them, and boil it with a few white peppercorns, which must be 
strained out before it is poured into the jars: it must be quite cold when 
added to the barberries or crabs ; these last should not be ripe when 
they are used, or they will burst in the pickle; they should have 
attained their growth and full colour, but be still hard. 



CHAPTER XXIII. 
CAKES. 




Modem Cake Mould. 



GENERAL REMARKS ON CAKES. 

The ingredients for cakes, as well as for puddings, should all be fresh 
and good, as well as free from damp ; the lightness of many kinds de- 
pends entirely on that given to the eggs by whisking, and by the man- 
ner in which the whole is mixed. A small portion of carbonate of 
soda, which will not be in the slightest degree perceptible to the taste 
after the cake is baked, if thrown in just before the mixture is put into 
the oven, will ensure its rising well. 

To guard against the bitterness so often imparted by yeast when it is 
used for cakes or biscuits, it should be sparingly added, and the sponge 
should be left twice the usual time to rise. This method will be found 



358 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XXIII. 

to answer equally with bread. For example : should a couple of spoons- 
m 1 of yeast be ordered in a receipt, when it is bitter, use but one, and 
l«-t it stand two hours instead of half the time: the fermentation, though 
s-ow, will be quite as perfect as if it were more quickly effected, and 
the cake or loaf thus made will not become dry by any means so soon 
is if a large portion of yeast were mixed with it. 

All light cakes require a rather brisk oven to raise and set them ; 
very large rich ones a well-sustained degree of heat sufficient to bake 
them through; and small sugar-cakes a very slow oven, to prevent 
their taking a deep colour before they are half done : gingerbread too 
should be gently baked, unless it be of the light thick kind. Merin- 
gues, macaroons, and ratafias, will bear a slight degree more of heat 
than these. 

For sponge and savoy cakes the French butter their moulds thickly, 
and shake fine sugar in them until they are equally covered with it : 
the loose sugar must be turned out before they are used. 

To ascertain whether a cake be done, thrust a knife into the centre, 
and should this come out clean draw it from the oven directly; but 
should the paste adhere to it, continue the baking. Several sheets of 
paper are placed usually under large plum-cakes. 

TO BLANCH ALMONDS. 

Put them into a saucepan with plenty of cold water, and heat it slowly ; 
when it is just scalding, turn the almonds into a basin, peel, and throw 
them into cold water as they are done : dry them welt in a soft cloth 
before they are used. If thewater be too hot, it will turn them yellow. 

TO POUND ALMONDS. 

Almonds are more easily pounded, and less liable to become oily, if 
dried a little in a very gentle degree of heat after they are blanched ; left 
for example, in a warm room for two or three days, lightly spread on a 
large dish or tin. They should be sprinkled during the beating with a 
few drops of cold water, or white of egg, or lemon-juice, and poundpd 
to a smooth paste: this is more easily done, we believe, when they are 
first roughly chopped, but we prefer to have them thrown at once into 
the mortar. 
to reduce almonds to a paste. (The quickest and easiest way.) 
Chop them a little on a large and very clean trencher, then with a 
paste-roller (rolling-pin), which ought to be thicker in the middle than 
at the ends, roll them well until no small bits are perceptible amongst 
them. We have found this method answer admirably; but as some of 
the oil is expressed from the almonds by it, and absorbed by the board, 
we would recommend a marble slab for them in preference, when it is 
at hand; and should they be intended for a sweet dish, that some 
pounded sugar should be strewed under them. When a board or 
strong trencher is used, it should be rather higher in the middle than 
at the sides. 

TO COLOUR ALMONDS FOR CAKES, OR PASTRY. 

Blanch, dry, and chop them rather coarsely ; pour a little prepared 
cochineal into the hands, and roll the almonds between them until they 
are equally coloured ; then spread them on a sheet of paper, and place 



CHAP. XXI11.] CAKES. 359 

them in a very gentle degree of heat to dry. Use spinach-juice (see 
page 233) to colour them green, and a strong- infusion of saffron to give 
them a yellow tint. They have a pretty effect when strewed over the 
icing of tarts or cakes, especially the rose-coloured ones, which should 
be rather pale. 

TO PREPARE BUTTER FOR RICH CAKES. 

For all large and very rich cakes the usual directions are, to beat 
the butter to a cream; tut we find that they are quite as light, if not 
more so, when it is cut small and gently melted with just so much 
heat as will dissolve it, and no more. If it be shaken round in a sauce- 
pan previously warmed, and held near the fire for a short time, it will 
soon be liquefied, which is all that is required : it must on no account 
be hot when it is added to the other ingredients, to which it must be 
poured in small portions after they are all mixed, in the way which we 
have minutely described in the receipt for a Madeira cake, and that of 
the Sutherland puddings (Chapter XVIII.) To cream it, drain the 
water well from it, after it is cut, soften it a little btfore the fire should 
it be very hard, and then with the back of a large strong wooden spoon 
beat it until it resembles thick cream. When prepared thus, the sugar 
is added to it first, and then the other ingredients in succession. 

TO WHISK EGGS FOR LIGHT RICH CAKES. 

Break them one by one, and separate the yolks from the whites: this 
is done easily by pouring the yolk from one half of the shell to the 
other, and letting the white drop from it into a basin beneath. With a 
small three-pronged fork take out the specks from each egg as it is 
broken, that none may accidentally escape notice. Whisk the yolks 
until they appear light, and the whites until they are a quite solid froth ; 
while any liquid remains at the bottom of the bowl they are not suffi- 
ciently beaten: when a portion of them, taken up with the whisk, and 
dropped from it, remains standing in points, they are in the proper state 
for use, and should be mixed into the cake directly. 

ORANGE-FLOWER MACAROONS. (DELICIOUS.) 

Have ready two pounds of very dry white sifted sugar. Weigh two 
ounces of the petals of freshly-gathered orange-blossoms after they 
have been picked from the stems : and cut them very small with a pair 
of scissors into the sugar, as they will become discoloured if not mixed 
with it quickly after they are cut. When all are done, add the whites 
of seven eggs, and beat the whole well together till it looks like snow; 
then drop the mixture upon paper without delay, and send the cakes to 
a very cool oven. 

Pounded sugar, 2 lbs. ; orange-blossoms, 2 ozs. ; whites of eggs, 7 : 
20 minutes, or more. 

Obs. — It is almost impossible to state with accuracy the precise time 
required for these cakes, so much depends on the oven : they should be 
very delicately coloured, and yet dried through. 

ALMOND MACAROONS. 

Blanch a pound of fresh Jordan almonds, wipe them dry, and set 
them into a very cool oven to render them perfectly so ; pound them to 
an exceedingly smooth paste, with a little white of egg; then whisk to 



360 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XXIII. 

a firm solid froth the whites of seven eggs, or of eight, should they be 
small; mix with them a pound and a half of the finest sugar; add 
these by degrees to the almonds, whisk the whole up well together, 
and drop the mixture upon wafer-paper, which may be procured at the 
confectioner's: bake them in a moderate oven a very pale brown. It is 
an improvement to the flavour of these cakes to substitute an ounce of 
bitter almonds for one of the sweet: they are sometimes made with an 
equal weight of each ; and another variety of them is obtained by 
gently browning the almonds in a slow oven before they are pounded. 

Jordan almonds blanched, 1 lb. ; sugar, 1£ lb. ; whites of 7 or 8 eggs : 
15 to 20 minutes. 

IMPERIALS. (NOT VERY RICH.) 

Work into a pound of flour six ounces of butter, and mix well with 
them half a pound of sifted sugar, six ounces of currants, two ounces 
of candied orange-peel, the grated rind of a lemon, and four well-beaten 
eggs. Flour a tin lightly, and with a couple of forks place the paste 
upon it in small rough heaps quite two inches apart. Bake them in a 
very gentle oven, from a quarter of an hour to twenty minutes, or until 
they are equally coloured to a pale brown. 

Flour, 1 lb. ; butter, 6 ozs. ; sugar, 8 ozs. ; currants, 6 ozs. ; candied 
peel, 2 ozs. ; rind of 1 lemon ; eggs, 4 : 15 to 20 minutes. 

VERY GOOD SMALL RICH CAKES. 

Beat and mix well together four eggs properly whisked, and half a 
pound of fine sifted sugar; pour to them by degrees a quarter pound of 
clarified butter, as little warmed as possible ; stir lightly in with these 
four ounces of dry sifted flour, beat the mixture for about ten minutes, 
put it into small buttered patty-pans, and bake the cakes a quarter of an 
hour in a moderate oven. They should be flavoured with the rasped or 
grated rind of a small lemon, or with pounded mace or cinnamon. 

Eggs, 4 ; sugar, | lb. ; butter, 4 ozs. ; flour, 4 ozs. ; lemon-rind, mace, 
or cinnamon : baked, 15 minutes. 

ALMOND ROCHER. 

Chop very fine together eight ounces of almonds, blanched, and 
dried, six of candied orange-rind, or of orange and lemon-rind mixed, 
and one ounce of citron ; then add to them two ounces of flour, three 
quarters of a pound of sugar, a small teaspoonful of mace and cinna- 
mon mixed, and the whites of three large eggs; roll the mixture into 
balls about the size of a large marble, and bake them on wafer-paper 
twenty minutes in a moderate oven : they should be quite crisp, but not 
deeply coloured. 

Almonds, 8 ozs. ; candied orange-rind, 6 ozs. ; citron, 1 oz. ; flour, 2- 
ozs. ; sugar, | lb. : mace and cinnamon mixed, 1 teaspoonful ; whites 
or' eggs, 3 large: baked, moderate oven, 20 minutes. 

Obs. — When the flavour is not disliked, it will be found an improve- 
ment to substitute an ounce of bitter almonds for one of the sweet; and 
we prefer the whole of the almonds and candied peel also cut into 
spikes instead of being chopped : the ingredients must then be made 
into a lighter paste, and placed in small heaps on the paper. 

BITTER ALMOND BISCUITS. 

Blanch, and then chop as fine as possible, two ounces of bitter almonds. 



CHAP. XXIII.] CAKES. 361 

and add them to half a pound of flour, half a pound of sifted sugar, and 
two ounces of butter, previously well mixed together. Whisk the 
whites of a couple of eggs to a strong froth, beat them lightly to the 
other ingredients, drop the cakes on a buttered tin, or copper oven-leaf, 
and bake them rather slowly from ten to twelve minutes: they should 
be very small. Should the proportion of bitter almonds be considered 
unhealthful, use half as many, and substitute sweet ones for the re- 
mainder. 

Flour, | lb.; sugar, ^ lb.; butter, 2 ozs. ; bitter almonds, 2 ozs. ; 
whites of eggs, 2: slow oven, 10 to 12 minutes. 

FINE ALMOND CAKE. 

Blanch, dry, and pound to the finest possible paste, eight ounces of 
fresh Jordan almonds, and one ounce of bitter; moisten them with a 
few drops of cold water or white of egg, to prevent their oiling ; then 
mix with them very gradually twelve fresh eggs which have been 
whisked until they are exceedingly light; throw in by degrees one 
pound of fine, dry, sifted sugar, and keep the mixture light by constant 
beating, with a large wooden spoon, as the separate ingredients are 
added. Mix in by degrees three quarters of a pound of dried and sifted 
flour of the best quality; then pour gently from the sediment a pound 
of butter which has been just melted, but not allowed to become hot, 
and beat it very gradually, but very thoroughly, into the cake, letting 
one portion entirely disappear before another is thrown in: add the 
rasped or finely-grated rinds of two sound fresh lemons, fill a thickly- 
buttered mould rather more than half full with the mixture, and bake 
the cake from an hour and a half to two hours in a well-heated oven. 
Lay paper over the top when it is sufficiently coloured, and guard care- 
fully against it being burned. 

Sweet almonds, § lb. ; bitter almonds, 1 oz. ; eggs, 12 ; sugar, 1 lb. , 
flour, | lb. ; butter, 1 lb. ; rinds lemons, 2 : 1^ to 2^"hours. 

Obs. — Three quarters of a pound of almonds may be mixed with this 
cake when so large a portion of them is liked, but an additional ounce 
or two of sugar, and one egg or more, will then be required. 

POUND CAKE. 

Mix, as directed in the foregoing receipt, ten eggs (some cooks take 
a pound in weight of these), one pound of sugar, one of flour, and as 
much of butter. A glass of brandy and a pound of currants may be 
added very gradually just before the cake is put into the oven, with any 
spice that is liked ; and two or three ounces of candied orange or lemon- 
rind, sliced thin, or an ounce of caraway-seeds, may supply the place 
of all. A cake made with half the quantity of the ingredients must be 
baked one hour. 

RICE CAKE. 

Take six eggs, with their weight in fine sugar, and in butter also, 
and half their weight of flour of rice, and half of wheaten flour; make 
the cake as directed for the Madeira or almond cake, but throw in the 
rice after the flour : then add the butter in the usual way, and bake the 
cake about an hour and ten minutes. Give any flavour thai is liked. 
The butter may be altogether omitted. This is a moderate-sized cake. 



362 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XXIII. 

Eggs, in the shell, 6 ; their weight in butter and in sugar ; half as 
much flour of rice, and the same of wheaten flour : 1 hour, 10 minutes. 

WHITE CAKE. 

Beat half a pound of fresh butter to a cream, add to it an equal weight 
of dried and sifted sugar, the yolks and whites of eight eggs, separately- 
whisked, two ounces of candied orange-peel, half a teaspoonful of mace, 
a glass of brandy, one pound of flour strewed in by degrees, and last of 
all a pound and a quarter of currants. Directly it is mixed send the 
cake to a well-heated oven, and bake it for a couple of hours. Four 
ounces of beaten almonds are sometimes added to it. 

Butter, | lb. ; sugar, \ lb. ; eggs, 8 ; mace, \ teaspoonful ; brandy, 1 
wineglassful ; flour, 1 lb.; candied peel, 2 ozs. ; currants, If lb.: 2 
hours. 

A GOOD SPONGE CAKE. 

Rasp on some lumps of well-refined sugar the rind of a fine sound 
lemon, and scrape off the part which has imbibed the essence, or crush 
the plums to powder, and add them to as much more as will make up 
the weight of eight or ten fresh eggs in the shell ; break these one by 
one, and separate the whites from the yolks ; beat the latter in a large 
bowl for ten minutes, then strew in the sugar gradually, and beat them 
well together. In the mean time let the whites be whisked to a quite 
solid froth, add them to the yolks, and when they are well blended sift 
and stir the flour gently to them, but do not beat it into the mixture; 
pour the cake into a well-buttered mould, and bake it an hour and a 
quarter in a moderate oven. 

Rasped rind, 1 large lemon; fresh eggs, 8 or 10; their weight of dry, 
sifted sugar; and half their weight of flour : baked, If hour, moderate 
oven. 

A SMALLER SPONGE CAKE. ( Very good.) 

Five full-sized eggs, the weight of four in sugar, and of nearly three 
in flour, will make an exceedingly good cake : it may be flavoured, like 
the preceding one, with lemon-rind, or with bitter almonds, vanilla, or 
confected orange-blossoms reduced to powder. An hour will bake it 
thoroughly. All the ingredients for sponge cakes should be of good 
quality, and the sugar and flour should be dry ; they should also be 
passed through a fine sieve kept expressly for such purposes. The ex- 
cellence of the whole depends much on the manner in which the eggs 
are whisked ; this should be done as lightly as possible ; but it is a mis- 
take to suppose that they cannot be too long beaten, as after they are 
brought to a state of perfect firmness they are injured by a continuation 
of the whisking, and will at times curdle, or render a cake heavy from 
this cause. 

a sponge cake. (Good and quickly made.) 

Beat together for between twenty and thirty minutes the yolks of 
nine and the whites of five fresh eggs ; then by degrees add three- 
quarters of a pound of sugar, and six and a half of flour. Flavour it 
or not, at choice, with the grated rind of a lemon, and bake it an hour, 
or rather more, in a brisk oven. 

A GOOD MADEIRA CAKE. 

Whisk four fresh eggs until they are as light as possible, then, con- 



CHAP. XXIII.] CAKES. 363 

tinuing still to whisk them, throw in by slow degrees the following in- 
gredients in the order in which they are written : six ounces of dry, 
pounded, and sifted sugar; six of flour, also dried and sifted; four 
ounces of butter just dissolved, but not. heated ; the rind of a fresh 
lemon ; and the instant before the cake is moulded, beat well in the 
third of a teaspoonful of carbonate of soda : bake it an hour in a mode- 
rate oven. In this, as in all compositions of the same nature, observe 
particularly that each portion of butter must be beaten into the mixture 
until no appearance of it remains before the next is added ; and if this 
be done, and the preparation be kept light by constant and light whisk- 
ing, the cake will be as good, if not better, than if the butter were 
creamed. Candied citron can be added to the paste, but it is not 
needed. 

Eggs, 4; sugar, 6 ozs. ; flour, 6 ozs. ; butter, 4 ozs. ; rind of 1 lemon, 
carbonate of soda, i of teaspoonful : 1 hour, moderate oven. 

BANBURY CAKES. 

First, mix well together a pound of currants, cleaned with great 
nicety and dried, a quarter-pound of beef-suet, finely minced, three 
ounces each of candied orange and lemon-rind, shred small, a few 
grains of salt, a full quarter-ounce of pounded cinnamon and nutmeg 
mixed, and four ounces of macaroons or ratafias rolled to powder. Next, 
make a light paste with fourteen ounces of butter to the pound of flour; 
give it an extra turn or two to prevent its rising too much in the oven ; 
roll out one half in a very thin square, and spread the mixed fruit and 
spice equally upon it; moisten the edges, lay on the remaining half of 
the paste, rolled equally thin, press the edges securely together, mark 
the whole with the back of a knife in regular divisions of two inches 
wide and three in length ; bake the pastry in a well-heated oven from 
twenty-five to thirty minutes, and divide it into cakes while it is still 
. warm. They may be served as a second-course dish either hot or cold, 
and may be glazed at pleasure. 

Currants, 1 lb. ; beef-suet, 4 ozs. ; candied orange and lemon-rind 
each, 3 ozs. ; salt, small pinch ; mixed spices, \ oz. ; macaroons or 
ratafias, 4 ozs. : baked 25 to 30 minutes. 

MERINGUES. 

Beat to a very solid froth the whites of six fresh eggs, and have 
ready to mix with them half a pound of the best sugar, well dried and 
sifted. Lay some squares or long strips of writing-paper closely upon 
a board, which ought to be an inch thick to prevent the meringues from 
receiving any colour from the bottom of the oven. When all is readv 
for them, stir the sugar to the beaten eggs, and with a table or dessert- 
spoon lay the mixture on the paper in the form of a half egg; sift sugar 
quickly over, blow off all that does not adhere, and set the meringues 
immediately into a moderate oven : the process must be expeditious, or 
the sugar melting will cause the meringues to spread, instead if re- 
taining their shape. When they are coloured a light brown, and are 
firm to the touch, draw them out, raise them from the paper, and press 
back the insides with a teaspoon, or scoop them out so as to leave space 
enough to admit some whipped cream or preserve, with which they are 
to be filled, when cold, before they are served. Put them again into 
the oven to dry gently, and when they are ready for table fasten them 



364 MODERN COOKER* [CHAP. XXIII. 

together in the shape of a whole egg, and pile them lightly on a napkin 
for the second course. 

Whites of fresh eggs, 6 ; sifted sugar, I lb. 

Obs. — Four ounces of pounded almonds may be mixed with the eggs 
and sugar for these cakes, and any flavour added to them at pleasure. 
If well made, they are remarkably good and elegant in appearance. 
They must be fastened together with a little white of egg. 

THICK, LIGHT GINGERBREAD. 

Crumble down very small eight ounces of butter into a couple of 
pounds of flour, then add to, and mix thoroughly with them, half a 
pound of good brown sugar, two ounces of powdered ginger, and half 
an ounce of good caraway-seeds ; beat gradually to these, first two 
pounds of treacle (molasses), next three well-whisked eggs, and last of 
all half an ounce of carbonate of soda, dissolved in a very small cupful 
of warm water ; stir the whole briskly together, pour the mixture into 
very shallow tins, put it immediately into a moderate oven, and bake it 
for an hour and a half. The gingerbread made thus will be remark- 
ably light and good. For children, part of the spice and butter may be 
omitted. 

Flour, 2 lbs. ; butter, 8 ozs. ; sugar, i lb. ; powdered ginger, 2 lbs. ; 
eggs, 3; carbonate of soda, I oz. ; water, very small cupful : baked 1| 
hour. 

Ois. — We think that something less than the half ounce of soda 
would be sufficient for this gingerbread, for with the whole quantity it 
rises in the oven to three times its height, and is apt to run over the 
tops of the tins even when they are but half filled with it at first. 

GOOD COMMON GINGERBREAD. 

Work very smoothly six ounces of fresh butter (or some that has 
been well washed from the salt, and wrung dry in a cloth) into one 
pound of flour, and mix with them thoroughly an ounce of ginger in 
fine powder, four ounces of brown sugar, and half a teaspoonful of 
beaten cloves and mace. Wet these with three-quarters of a pound, or 
rather more, if needful, of cold treacle ; roll out the paste, cut the cakes 
with a round tin cutter, lay them on a floured or buttered baking tin, 
and put them into a very slow oven. Lemon-grate or candied peel can 
be added, when it is liked. 

Flour, 1 lb. ; butter, 6 ozs. ; sugar, £ lb. ; ginger, 1 oz. ; cloves and 
mace, ^ teaspoonful ; treacle, ^ lb. : ^ to f hour. 

RICHER GINGERBREAD. 

Melt together three-quarters of a pound of treacle and half a pound 
of fresh butter, pour these hot on a pound of flour mixed with half a 
pound of sugar and three quarters of an ounce of ginger. When the 
paste is quite cold, roll it out with as much flour as will prevent its ad- 
hering to the board : bake the cakes in a very gentle oven. 

COCOA-NUT GINGERBREAD. 

Mix well together ten ounces of fine wheaten flour, and six of 
flour of rice (or rice ground to powder), the grated rind of a lemon, 
and three-quarters of an ounce of ginger ; pour nearly boiling upon 
these a pound of treacle, five ounces of fresh butter and five of sugar, 



CHAP. XXIII.] CAKES. 365 

melted together in a saucepan ; beat the mixture, which will be almost 
a batter, with a wooden spoon, and when quite smooth leave it till it is 
perfectly cold, then add to it live ounces of grated cocoa-nut, and when 
it is thoroughly blended with the other ingredients, lay the paste in 
small heaps' upon a buttered tin, and bake them in a very slack oven 
from half to three-quarters of an hour. 

Flour, 10 ozs. ; ground rice, 6 ozs. ; rind of one lemon; ginger, £ 
oz. ; treacle, 1 lb. ; sugar, 5 ozs. ; butter, 5 ozs. ; cocoa-nut, 5 ozs. : \ 
to £ hour. 

CHEAP GINGER BISCUITS. 

Work into quite small crumbs three ounces of good butter, with two 
pounds of flour, then add three ounces of pounded sugar and two of 
ginger, in fine powder, and knead them into a stiff paste, with new 
milk. Roll it thin, cut out the biscuits with a cutter, and bake them in 
a slow oven until they are crisp quite through, but keep them of a palo 
colour. A couple of eggs are sometimes mixed with the milk for them, 
but are no material improvement ; an additional ounce of sugar may be 
used when a sweeter biscuit is liked. To make good ginger cakes, 
increase the butter to six ounces, and the sugar to eight, for each pound 
of flour, and wet the ingredients into a paste with eggs : a little lemon- 
grate will give it an agreeable flavour. 

Biscuits : flour, 2 lbs. ; butter, 3 ozs. ; pounded sugar, 3 ozs. ; ginger, 
2 ozs. 

Cakes: flour, 1 lb. ; butter, 6 ozs. ; sugar, 8 ozs. ; ginger, 1 oz. ; 3 to 
4 eggs ; rind of \ lemon. 

A GOOD SODA CAKE. 

Rub half a pound of good butter into a pound of fine dry flour, and 
work it very small ; mix well with these half a pound of sifted sugar, 
and pour to them first a quarter of a pint of boiling milk, and next three 
well-whisked eggs ; add some grated nutmeg, or fresh lemon-rind, and 
eight ounces of currants; beat the whole well and lightly together, and 
the instant before the cake is moulded and set into the oven, stir to it a 
teaspoonful of carbonate of soda in the finest powder. Bake it from an 
hour to an hour and a quarter, or divide it in two, and allow from half 
to three quarters of an hour for each cake. 

Flour, 1 lb. ; butter, 3 ozs. ; sugar, 8 ozs. ; milk, full quarter-pint ; 
eggs, 3 ; currants, % lb. ; carbonate of soda, 1 teaspoonful ; 1 to H hour. 
Or, divided, ^ to £ hour, moderate oven. 

Obs. — This, if well made, resembles a pound-cake, but is much more 
wholesome. It is very good with two ounces less of butter, and with 
caraway-seeds or candied orange or citron substituted for the currants. 

CINNAMON, OR LEMON CAKES. 

Rub six ounces of good butter into a pound of fine dry flour, and work 
it lightly into crumbs, then add three quarters of a pound of sifted 
sugar, a dessertspoonful of pounded cinnamon (or half as much when 
only a slight flavour is liked), and make these ingredients into a firm 
paste with three eggs, or four, if needed. Roll it, not very thin, and 
cut out the cakes with a tin shape. Bake them in a very gentle oven 
from fifteen to twenty minutes, or longer, should they not be done quite 
through. As soon as they are cold, put them into a clean and dry tin 
canister, a precaution which should be observed with all small sugar 



36G MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XXIII, 

cakes, which ought also to be loosened from the oven-tins while they are 
still warm. 

Flour, 1 lb. ; butter, 6 ozs. ; sugar, £ lb. ; cinnamon, 1 dessertspoonful 
(more or less, to the taste) ; eggs, 3 to 4. 

06s. — Lemon cakes can be made by this receipt by substituting for 
the cinnamon the rasped or grated rinds of two lemons, and the strained 
juice of one, when its acidity is not objected to. More butter, and more 
or less of sugar, can be used at will, both for these and for the cinnamon 
cakes. 

QUEEN CAKES. 

To make these, proceed 'exactly as for Sutherland puddings (see 
Chapter XVII.), but allow ten eggs for the pound of sugar, butter, and 
flour, and when these are all well mixed, throw in half a teaspoonful 
of mace, and a pound of clean dry currants. Bake the cakes in small 
well-buttered tin pans (heart-shaped ones are usual), in a somewhat 
brisk oven, for about twenty minutes. 

A GOOD LIGHT BUN. 

Break quite small three ounces of good butter into a pound and a 
quarter of flour, stir into the middle of these a spoonful and a quarter of 
solid, well-purified yeast, mixed with something more than a quarter- 
pint of warm milk, and leave it to rise before, but not close to the fire, 
for an hour, or longer, should it not then appear extremely light. Add 
to three eggs, properly whisked, a few spoonsful of warm milk, strain 
and beat them to the bun ; next, mix with it six ounces of pale brown 
sugar, six of well-cleaned currants, and the grated rind of a small lemon, 
or some nutmeg, if preferred ; or, in lieu of either, slice into it an ounce 
and a half of candied orange-rind. Let it again rise for an hour, then 
beat it up lightly with a wooden spoon, put it into a buttered pan, and 
bake it in a brisk oven for nearly or quite an hour. An additional ounce 
of butter will improve it. 

Flour, 1-]- lb.; yeast, 1^ tablespoonful : 1 hour, or more. Eggs, 3 ; 
milk, in all not \ pint; sugar, 6 ozs.; currants, 6 ozs.; lemon-grate, 
nutmeg, or candied orange-rind, at pleasure: 1 hour. Baked nearly or 
quite an hour ; brisk oven. 

cocoa-nut biscuit ; (excellent.) 

With a pound of flour mix three ounces of a sound fresh cocoa-nut, 
rasped on a fine grater; make a leaven as for the bun in the foregoing 
receipt, with a large tablespoonful of good yeast, and about the third of 
a pint of warm new milk; let it stand for an hour, then strew over and 
mix well up with it four ounces of pounded sugar; next, dissolve two 
ounces of butter in a very little milk, cool it down with a few spoonsful 
of cold milk if needful, and pour it to a couple of well-whisked eggs; 
with these wet the other ingredients into a very light dough, let it stand 
from three quarters of an hour to an hour, and bake it about the same 
time in a rather quick oven. Two ounces more of sugar, one of butter, 
and two of candied orange-rind, sliced thin, will convert this into a good 
cake, the cocoa-nut imparting great richness as well as flavour to the 
mixture: the proportion of this can also be regulated by the taste, after 
the first trial. 

Flour, 1 lb.; grated cocoa-nut, 3 ozs.; yeast, 1 large tablespoonful; 



CHAP. XXIII.] CAKES. 367 

milk, 5 of pint : 1 hour. Pounded sugar, 4 ozs. ; butter, 2 ozs. ; eggs, 
2; little milk : £ to 1 hour. Or: sugar, 6 ozs. ; bitter, 3 ozs. ; canaied 
orange-rind, 2 ozs. ; baked nearly or quite an hour. 

THREADNEEDLE STREET BISCUITS. 

Mix with a couple of pounds of sifted flour of the very best quality, 
three ounces of good butter, and work it into the smallest possible 
crumbs ; add four ounces of fine, dry, sifted sugar, and make them into 
a firm paste with new milk; beat this forcibly for some minutes with 
the rolling-pin, and when it is extremely smooth roll it the third of an 
inch thick, cut it with a small square cutter, and bake the biscuits in a 
very slow oven until they are crisp to the centre : no part of them should 
remain soft. Haifa teaspoonful of carbonate of soda is said to improve 
them, but we have not put it to the test. Caraway-seeds can be added 
when liked. 

Flour, 2 lbs. ; butter, 3 ozs. ; sugar, 4 ozs. ; new milk, 1 pint, or more : 
biscuits slowly baked till crisp. 

A GALETTE. 

The galette is a favourite cake in France, and may be made rich, and 
comparatively delicate, or quite common, by using more or less butter 
for it, and by augmenting or diminishing the size. Work lightly three 
quarters of a pound of good butter into a pound of flour, add a large 
saltspoonful of salt, and make these into a paste with the yolks of a 
couple of eggs mixed with a small cup of good cream, should it be at 
hand ; if not, with water ; roll this into a complete round, three quar- 
ters of an inch thick ; score it in small diamonds, brush yolk of egg over 
the top, and bake the galette for about half an hour in a tolerably brisk 
oven ; it is usually eaten hot, but is served cold also. An ounce of sifted 
sugar is sometimes added to it. 

A good galette : flour, 1 lb. ; butter, f lb. ; salt, 1 saltspoonful; yolks 
of eggs, 2; cream, small cupful: baked h hour. Common galette: 
flour, 2 lbs. ; butter, | to 1 lb. ; no eggs. 

CORNISH HEAVY CAKE. 

Mix with a pound and a half of flour, ten ounces of well-cleaned cur 
rants, and a small teaspoonful of salt ; make these into a smooth paste 
with clotted cream (any which is very thick will do), roll the cake till 
it is an inch and a quarter in depth, and bake it thoroughly in a quick 
oven, after having scored the top. 

Flour, 1| lb.; currants, 10 ozs.; salt, small teaspoonful; clotted, or 
very thick cream, | to full pint : 35 to 45 minutes, brisk oven. 

FLEED OR FLEAD CAKES. 

These are very much served as a tea-cake at the tables of the supe- 
rior order of Kentish farmers. For the mode of making them, proceed 
as for flead-crust (see Chapter XVI.) ; cut the cakes small with a round 
cutter, and leave them more than half an inch thick; if well made, they 
will rise much in the oven. Bake them in a moderate but not slow oven. 

Flour, 2 lbs. ; fleftd, 1+ lb. ; butter, 6 ozs. : baked 10 to 15 minutes. 

GOOD CAPTAIN'S BISCUITS. 

Make some fine white flour into a smooth paste with new milk ; 
divide it into small balls; roll, and afterwards pull them with the fin- 



3G8 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XXIV. 

gers as thin as possible ; prick them all over, and bake them m a some- 
what brisk oven from ten to twelve minutes. 

THE COLONEL'S BISCUITS. 

Mix a slight pinch of salt with some fine sifted flour; make it into a 
very smooth paste with good cream, and bake the biscuits gently, after 
having prepared them for the oven like those which precede. Store 
them as soon as they are cold in a dry canister, to preserve them crisp : 
they are excellent. 

AUNT CHARLOTTE'S BISCUITS. 

These biscuits, which are very simple and wholesome, may be made 
with the same dough as good white bread, with the addition of from 
half to a whole ounce of butter to the pound kneaded into it after it has 
risen. Break the butter small, spread out the dough a little, knead it 
in well and equally, and leave it for about half an hour; then roll it a 
quarter of an inch thick; prick it well all over; cut out the biscuits; 
and bake them in a moderate oven from ten to fifteen minutes: they 
should be crisp quite through, but not deeply coloured. 

White-bread douarh, 2 lbs. ; butter, 1 to 2 ozs. : to rise h hour. Baked 
in moderate oven 10 to 15 minutes. 

Obs. — To make the biscuits by themselves, proceed as for Bordyke 
bread ; but use new milk for them, and work three ounces of butter 
into two pounds of flour before the yeast is added. 



CHAPTER XXIV. 
CONFECTIONARY. 

TO CLARIFY SUGAR. 



It is an economy to use at once the very best sugar for confectionary 
in general, for when highly refined it needs little or no clarifying, even 
for the most delicate purposes ; and the coarser kinds lose considerable 
weight in the process. Break it into large lumps, and put it into a very 
clean preserving-pan ; measure for each pound a pint of spring water if 
it be intended for syrup, but less than half that quantity for candying 
or making barley-sugar. Beat first apart (but not to a strong froth), 
and afterwards with the water, about half the white of an egg for 
six pounds of sugar, unless it should be very common, when twice as 
much may be used. When they are well mixed, pour them over the 
suijar, and let it stand until it is nearly dissolved; then stir the whole 
thoroughly, and place it over a gentle fire, but do not disturb it after the 
scum begins to gather on the top; let it boil for five minutes, then take 
the pan from the fire, and when it has stood a couple of minutes clear 
off the scum entirely, with a skimmer; set the pan again over the fire, 
and when the sugar begins to boil throw in a little cold water, which 
has been reserved for the purpose from the quantity first measured, and 
repeat the skimming until the syrup is very clear; it may then be 
strained through a muslin, or a thin cloth, and put into a clean pan fo* 
further boiling-. 



CHAP. XXIV. CONFECTIONARY. 369 

For syrup : sugar, 6 lbs. ; water, 3 quarts ; i white of 1 egg. For 
candying, &c. : sugar, 6 lbs. ; water, 2^ pints: 5 to 10 minutes. 

TO BOIL SUGAR FROM SYRUP TO CANDY, OR TO CARAMEL. 

The technicalities by which confectioners distinguish the different 
degrees of sugar-boiling, seem to us calculated rather to puzzle than to 
assist the reader; and we shall, therefore, confine ourselves to. such 
plain English terms as may suffice, we hope, to explain them. After 
having boiled a certain time, the length of which will in a measure 
depend upon the quality of the sugar as well as the quantity of water 
added, it becomes a thin syrup, and it will scarcely form a short thread 
if a drop be pressed between the thumb and finger and they are then 
drawn apart; from five to ten minutes more of rapid boiling will bring 
it to a thick syrup, and when this degree is reached the thread may be 
drawn from one hand to the other at some length without breaking; but 
its appearance in dropping from the skimmer will perhaps best denote 
its being at this point, as it hangs in a sort of string as it falls. After 
this the sugar will soon begin to whiten, and to form large bubbles in 
the pan, when, if it be intended for barley-sugar, or caramel, some 
lemon-juice or other acid must be added to it, to prevent its graining 
or becoming sugar again ; but if wanted to candy, it must be stirred 
without ceasing, until it rises almost to the top of the pan, in one large 
white mass, when it must be used immediately or ladled out into paper 
cases or on to dishes, with the utmost expedition, as it passes in an 
instant almost from this state to one in which it forms a sort of powder, 
which will render it necessary to add water, to stir it until dissolved, 
and to reboil it to the proper point. For barley-sugar likewise it must 
be constantly stirred, and carefully watched after the lemon-juice is 
added. A small quantity should be dropped from time to time into a 
large basin of cold water by those who are inexperienced in the pro- 
cess; when in falling into this it makes a bubbling noise, and if taken 
out immediately after it snaps clean between the teeth without sticking 
to them, it must be poured out instantly : if wanted for sugar-spinning^ 
the pan must be plunged as quickly as possible into a vessel of cold 
water. 

BARLEY-SUGAR. 

Add to three pounds of highly-refined sugar one pint and a quarter 
of spring water, with sufficient white of egg to clarify it in the manner 
directed in the last receipt but one: pour to it, when it begins to whiten 
and to be very thick, a dessertspoonful of the strained juice of a fresh 
lemon; and boil it quickly till it is at the point which we have indi- 
cated above. A few drops of essence of lemon may be added to it, just 
as it is taken from the fire. Pour it on to a marble slab, or on to a 
shallow dish which has been slightly oiled, or rubbed with a morsel of 
fresh butter ; and when it begins to harden at the edges, form it into 
sticks, lozenges, balls, or any other shapes at pleasure. While it is still 
liquid it may be used for various purposes, such as Chantilly baskets, 
palace bonbons, des croques-en-bouches,* cerises au caramel, &c. : for 
these the vessel containing it must be set into a pan of water, and it 

* These are formed of small cakes, roasted chestnuts, and various other things, just 
dipped singly into the barleys uirar, and then arranged in good form and joined in a 
mould, from which th°y are turned out for table. 

23 



370 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XXIV. 

must again be liquefied with a very gentle degree of heat should it cool 
too quickly. As it soon dissolves if exposed to damp, it should be put 
into very dry canisters as soon as it is cold, and these should be kept in 
a dry place. 

Best sugar, 3 lbs. ; water, 1^ pint ; white of egg, £ of 1 ; lemon-juice, 
1 dessertspoonful. 

GINGER CANDY. 

Break a pound of highly-refined sugar into lumps, put it into a pre- 
serving-pan, and pour over it about the third of a pint of spring w T ater : 
let it stand until the sugar is nearly dissolved, then set it over a per- 
fectly clear fire, and boil it until it becomes a thin syrup. Have ready- 
in a large cup a teaspoonful of the very best ginger in powder, mix it 
smoothly and gradually with two or three spoonsful of the syrup, and 
then stir it well into the whole. Watch the mixture carefully, keep it 
stirred, and drop it often from a spoon to ascertain the exact point of 
boiling it has reached. When it begins to fall in Jlakes, throw in the 
freshly-grated rind of a very large lemon, or of two small ones, and 
work the sugar round quickly as it is added. The candy must now be 
stirred constantly until it is done : this will be when it falls in a mass 
from the spoon, and does not sink when placed in a small heap on a 
dish. It must be poured, or laded out, as expeditiously as possible when 
ready, or it will fall quite into powder. If this should happen, a little 
water must be added to it, and it must be reboiled to the proper point. 
The candy, if dropped in cakes upon cold dishes, may be moved off 
without difficulty before it is thoroughly cold, but must not be touched 
while quite hot or it will break. 

Sugar, highly refined, 1 lb.; water, £ of a pint; ginger, 1 teaspoon- 
ful ; rind of 1 large lemon. 

ORANGE-FLOWER CANDY. 

Beat in three quarters of a pint, or rather more, of water, about the 
fourth part of the white of an egg ; and pour it on two pounds of the 
best sugar broken into lumps. When it has stood a little time, place it 
over a very clear fire, and let it boil for a few minutes, then set it on 
one side, until the scum has subsided ; clear it off, and boil the sugar till 
it is very thick, then strew in by degrees three ounces of the petals of 
the orange-blossom, weighed after they are picked from their stems. 
Continue to stir the candy until it rises in one white mass in the pan, 
then pour it into small paper cases, or on to dishes, and follow for it 
precisely the same directions as are given for the ginger-candy in the 
preceding receipt. The orange-flowers will turn brown if thrown too 
soon into the syrup: it should be more than three parts boiled when they 
are added. They must be gathered on the day they are wanted fo: 
use, as they become soon discoloured from keeping. 

Sugar, 2 lbs. ; water, | pint ; ± white of egg ; orange-blossoms, 3 ozs. 

orange-flower candy ; (another Receipt.) 
The French, who are very fond of the delicious flavour of the orange- 
blossom, leave the petals in the candy ; but a more delicate confection, 
to English taste, is made as follows : — Throw the orange-flowers into 
the syrup when it has boiled about ten minutes, and after they have 
simmered in it {or five more, pour the whole out, and leave thein to in- 



CHAP. XXV.] DESSERT DISHES. 371 

fuse until the following day, or even longer, if more convenient; then 
bring the syrup to the point of boiling, strain it from the blossoms 
through a muslin, and finish it by the foregoing receipt. 

PALACE-BONBONS. 

Take some fine fresh candied orange or lemon-peel, take off the sugar 
that adheres to it, cut it into inch-squares, stick these singly on the 
prong of a silver fork, or on osier-twigs, dip them into liquid barley- 
sugar, and place them on a dish rubbed with the smallest possible quan- 
tity of very pure salad oil. When cold, put them into tin boxes or 
canisters well dried, with paper between each layer. 

EVERTON TOFFIE. 

Put into a brass skillet, if at hand, three ounces of very fresh butter, 
and as soon as it is just melted add a pound of brown sugar of moderate 
quality ; keep these stirred gently over a very clear fire for about fifteen 
minutes, or until a little of the mixture, dropped into a basin of cold 
water, breaks clean between the teeth without sticking to them : when 
it is boiled to this point, it must be poured out immediately, or it will 
burn. The grated rind of a lemon, added when the toffie is half done, 
improves it much ; or a small teaspoonful of powdered ginger, moistened 
with a little of the other ingredients, as soon as the sugar is dissolved, 
and then stirred to the whole, will vary it pleasantly to many tastes. 
The real Everton toffie is made, we apprehend, with a much larger 
proportion of butter, but it is the less wholesome on that very account. 
If dropped upon dishes first rubbed with a buttered paper, the toffie when 
cold can be raised from them easily. 

Butter, 3 ozs. ; sugar, 1 lb. : 15 to 18 minutes. 

TOFFIE. (ANOTHER WAY.) 

Boil together a pound of sugar and five ounces of butter for twenty 
minutes; then stir in two ounces of almonds blanched, divided, and tho- 
roughly dried in a slow oven, or before the fire. Let the toffie boil 
after they are added, till it crackles when dropped into cold water, and 
snaps between the teeth without sticking. 

Sugar, 1 lb. ; butter, 5 ozs. ; almonds, 2 ozs. : 20 to 30 minutes. 



CHAPTER XXV. 

DESSERT DISHES, 

MELANGE OF FRUIT. 



Heap a dessert-dish quite high with alternate layers of fine fresh 
strawberries stripped from the stalks, white and red currants, and white 
or red raspberries ; strew each layer plentifully with sifted sugar, and 
just before the dish* is sent to table, pour equally over the top a glass 
and a half of brandy, or, if preferred, the same quantity or rather more 
of white wine, mixed with the strained juice of one small, or of half a 
large lemon. Currants by themselves are excellent prepared in this 



372 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP XXV. 

way, and strawberries also. The fruit should be gently stirred with a 
spoon when it is served. Each variety must be picked with great 
nicety from the stalks. The brandy would, we think, be less to the 
general taste in this country than the wine. 

FRUIT EN CHEMISE, OR PERLE. 

Select for this dish very fine bunches of red and white currants, large 
ripe cherries, and gooseberries of different colours, and strawberries or 
raspberries very freshly gathered. Beat up the white of an egg with 
about half as much cold water, dip the fruit into this mixture, drain it 
on a sieve for an instant, and then roll it in fine sifted sugar until it is 
covered in every part ; give it a gentle shake, and lay it on sheets of 
white paper to dry. In England, thin gum-water is sometimes used, 
we believe, for this dish, instead of the white of egg ; we give, how- 
ever, the French method of preparing it. It will dry gradually in a 
warm room, or a sunny window, in the course of three or four hours. 

PEACH SALAD. 

Pare and slice half a dozen fine ripe peaches, arrange them in a dish, 
strew them with pounded sugar, and pour over them two or three glasses 
of champagne : other wine may be used, but this is best. Persons who 
prefer brandy can substitute it for wine. The quantity of sugar must 
be proportioned to the sweetness of the fruit. 

ORANGE SALAD. 

Take off the outer rinds, and then strip away entirely the white 
inside skin from some fine China oranges ; slice them thin, and remove 
the pips as this is done; strew over them plenty of white sifted sugar, 
and pour on them a glass or more of brandy : when the sugar is dis- 
solved, serve the oranges. In France, ripe pears of superior quality are 
sometimes sliced in with the oranges. Powdered sugar-candy used in- 
stead of sugar, is an improvement in this salad; and the substitution of 
port, sherry, or Madeira for the brandy is often considered so. The first 
may be used without being pared, and a little cuirasseau or any other 
liquor may be added to the brandy ; or this last, when unmixed, may 
be burned after it is poured on the oranges. 

comp6te of oranges; (a Hebrew dish.) 
After having pared and stripped the white inner rind from some fine 
oranges, pull them into quarters, arrange them neatly in a dish, and 
just before they are sent to table pour over them some rich syrup, and 
garnish the whole tastefully with preserved citron cut in thin slices. 
Haifa pint of syrup will be sufficient for a large number of oranges; it 
would be improved, we think, if the rind of one pared very thin were 
infused in it for an hour before it is used. This is one of the receipts 
which, we have not considered it needful to prove. 

ORANGES WARMED. 

Place them in a Dutch oven at a considerable distance from the fire, 
and keep them constantly turned: they should only be just warmed 
through. Fold them in a napkin when done, and send them immedi- 
ately to table. This mode of treating them is said to improve greatly 
the flavour of the oranges. 



,«AP. XXV.] DESSERT DISHES. 373 

NORMANDY PIPPINS. 

To one pound of* the apples, put one quart of water and six ounces 
of sugar; Jet them simmer gently for three hours, or more should they 
not be perfectly tender. A few strips of fresh lemon-peel and a very 
few cloves are by some persons considered agreeable additions to the 
syrup. 

Dried Normandy pippins, 1 lb. ; water, 1 quart ; sugar, 6 ozs. : 3 to 
4 hours. 

Obs. — These pippins, if stewed with care, will be converted into a 
rich confection : they may be served hot in a border of rice, as a second 
course dish. 

STEWED PRUNEAUX DE TOURS, OR TOURS DRIED PLUMS. 

These plums, which resemble in form small dried Norfolk biffins, 
make a delicious comp6te: they are also excellent served dry. In 
France they are stewed till tender in equal parts of water, and of the 
light red wine of the country, with about four ounces of sugar to the 
pound of fruit: when port wine is used for them a smaller "proportion 
of it will suffice. The sugar should not be added in stewing any dried 
fruits until they are at least half-done, as they will not soften by any 
means so easily in syrup as in unsweetened liquid. 

Dried plums, 1 lb. ; water, \ pint, and light claret, ^ pint, or water, 
| pint, and port wine, | pint : 1^ hour. Sugar, 4 ozs. : 1 hour, or more. 

Obs. — Common French plums are stewed in the same way with or 
without wine. A little experience will teach the cook the exact quan- 
tity of liquid and of sugar which they require. 

baked compote of apples. {Our little lady's receipt.) 
Put into a wide jar, with a cover, two quarts of golden pippins, or 
any small apple which resembles them in appearance, pared and cored, 
but without being divided ; strew amongst them some small strips of 
very thin fresh lemon-rind, and throw on them, nearly at the top, half a 
pound of very good sugar, and set the jar, with the cover tied on, for 
some hours, or for a night, into a very slow oven. The apples will be 
extremely good, if not too quickly baked : they should remain entire, 
but be perfectly tender and clear in appearance. Add a little lemon- 
juice when the season is far advanced. 

Apples, 2 quarts ; rind, quite small lemon ; sugar, £ lb. : 1 night in 
slow oven ; or some hours baking in a very gentle one' 

Obs. — These apples may be served hot or cold for a second course 
dish ; or they will answer admirably to fill Gabrielle's pudding. 

TO BAKE PEARS. 

Wipe some large sound iron pears, arrange them on a dish with the 
stalk end upwards, put them into the oven after the bread is drawn, and 
let them remain all night. If well baked, they will be excellent, very 
sweet, and juicy, and much finer in flavour than those which are 
stewed or baked with sugar : the ban chretien pear also is delicious 
baked thus. 

STEWED PEARS. 

Pare, cut in halves, and core a dozen fine iron pears, put them into a 
close-shutting stewpan with some thin strips of lemon-rind, half a pound 



374 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XXVI. 

of sugar, in lumps, as much water as will nearly cover them, and should 
a very bright colour be desired, a dozen grains of cochineal, bruised, 
and tied in a muslin; stew the fruit as gently as possible, from four to 
six hours, or longer, should it not be very tender. The Chaumontel 
pear, which sometimes falls in large quantities before it is ripe, is ex- 
cellent, if first baked until tolerably tender, and then stewed in a thin 
syrup. 

BOIIiFD CHESTNUTS. 

Make a slight incision in the outer skin only of each chestnut, to 
prevent its bursting, and when all are done, throw them into plenty of 
boiling water, with about a dessertspoonful of salt to the half gallon. 
Some chestnuts will require to be boiled nearly or quite an hour, others 
little more than half the time ; the cook should try them occasionally, 
and as soon as they are soft through, drain them, wipe them in a coarse 
cloth, and send them to table quickly in a hot napkin. 

ROASTED CHESTNUTS. 

The best mode of preparing these is to roast them, as in Spain, in a 
coffee-roaster, after having first boiled them from five to seven minutes, 
and wiped them dry. They should not be allowed to cool, and will re- 
quire but from ten to fifteen minutes roasting. They may, when more 
convenient, be finished over the fire as usual, or in a Dutch or common 
oven, but in all cases the previous boiling will be found an improvement. 

Never omit to cut the rind of each nut slightly before it is cooked. 
Serve the chestnuts very hot in a napkin, and send salt to table with 
them. 



CHAPTER XXVI. 

SYRUPS, LIQUEURS, &c. 



STRAWBERRY VINEGAR, OF DELICIOUS FLAVOUR. 

Take the stalks from the fruit, which should be of a highly flavoured 
sort, quite ripe, fresh from the beds, and gathered in dry weather; 
weigh and put it into large glass jars, or wide-necked bottles, and to 
each pound pour about a pint and a half of fine pale white wine vine- 
gar, which will answer the purpose better than the entirely colourless 
kind sold under the name of distilled vinrq-ar, but which is, we believe, 
the pyroligneous acid greatly diluted. Tie a thick paper over them, 
and let the strawberries remain from three to four days; then pour off 
the vinegar and empty them into a jelly-bao\ or suspend them in a cloth 
that all the liquid may drop from them without pressure ; replace them 
with an equal weight of fresh fruit, pour the vinegar upon it, and three 
days afterwards repeat the same process, diminishing a little the propor- 
tion of strawberries, of which the flavour ought ultimately to overpower 
that of the vinegar. In from two to four days drain off the liquid very 
closely, and after having strained it through a linen or a flannel bag, 
weigh it, and mix with it an equal quantity of highly-refined sugar 
roughly powdered ; when this is nearly dissolved, stir the syrup over a 



CHAI\ XXVI.] SYRUPS, LIQUEURS, &C. 375 

very clear fire until it has boiled five minutes, and skim it thoroughly ; 
pour it into a delicately clean stone pitcher, or into large china jugs, 
throw a folded cloth over and let it remain until the morrow ; put it 
into pint or half-pint bottles, and cork them lightly with new velvet 
corks ; for if these be pressed in tightly at first, the bottles would be 
liable to burst : in four or five days they may be closely corked, and 
stored in a dry and cool place. Damp destroys the colour and injures 
the flavour of these fine fruit- vinegars ; of which a spoonful or two in 
a glass of water affords so agreeable a summer beverage, and one 
which, in many cases of illness, is so acceptable to invalids. They 
make also most admirable sauces for common custard, batter, and various 
other simple and sweet light puddings. 

Strawberries (stalked), 4 lbs. ; vinegar, 3 quarts : 3 to 4 days. Vine- 
gar drained and poured on fresh strawberries, 4 lbs. : 3 days. Drained 
again on to fresh fruit, 3 to 4 lbs. : 2 to 4 days. To each pound of the 
vinegar, 1 lb. of highly-refined sugar: boiled 5 minutes. Lightly 
corked, 4 or 5 days. 

Obs. — Where there is a garden the fruit may be thrown into the 
vinegar as it ripens, within an interval of forty-eight hours, instead of 
being all put to infuse at once, and it must then remain in it a propor- 
tionate time : one or two days in addition to that specified will make 
no difference to the preparation. The enamelled German stewpans are 
the best possible vessels to boil it in ; but it may be simmered in a stone 
jar set into a pan of boiling water when there is nothing more appro- 
priate at hand ; though the syrup does not usually keep so well when 
this last method is adopted. 

Raspberries and strawberries mixed will make a vinegar of very 
pleasant flavour; black currants also will afford an exceedingly useful 
syrup of the same kind. 

STRAWBERRY ACID ROYAL. 

Dissolve in a quart of spring water two ounces of citric acid, and 
pour it on as many quite ripe and richly-flavoured strawberries, stripped 
from their stalks, as it will just cover; in twenty-four hours drain the 
liquid closely from the fruit, and pour on it as much more; keep it in a 
cool place, and the next day drain it again entirely from the fruit, and 
boil it gently for three or four minutes, with its weight of very fine 
sugar, which should be dissolved in it before it is placed over the fire. 
It should be boiled, if possible, in an enamelled stewpan. When per- 
fectly cold put it into small dry bottles for use, and store it in a cool 
but not damp place. It is one of the most delicate and deliciously 
flavoured preparations possible, and of beautiful colour. If allowed to 
remain longer than the eight-and-forty hours before it is boiled, a brisk 
fermentation will commence. It must be well secured from the air 
when stored. 

Water, 1 quart ; citric acid, 2 ozs. ; strawberries, 2 to 3 lbs. : 24 
hours. Same quantity of fruit : 24 hours. Equal weight of sugar and 
this liquid : 3 to 4 minutes at the utmost. 

VERY FINE RASPBERRY VINEGAR. 

Fill glass jars, or larg-e wide-necked bottles, with very ripe but per- 
fectly sound, freshly gathered raspberries, freed from their stalks, and 
cover them with pale white wine vinegar : they may be left to infuse 



376 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XXVI. 

from a week to ten days without injury, or the vinegar may be poured 
from them in four and five, when more convenient. After it is drained 
off, turn the fruit into a sieve placed over a deep dish or bowl, as the 
juice will flow slowly from it for many hours; put fresh raspberries into 
the bottles, and pour the vinegar back upon them ; two or three days 
later change the fruit again, and when it has stood the same space of 
time, drain the whole of the vinegar from it, pass it through a jelly-bag, 
or thick linen cloth, and boil it gently for four or five minutes with its 
weight of good sugar roughly powdered, or a pound and a quarter to 
the exact pint, and be very careful to remove the scum entirely, as it 
rises. On the following day bottle the syrup, observing the directions 
which we have given for the strawberry vinegar. When the fruit is 
scarce, it may be changed twice only, and left a few days longer in the 
vinegar. 

Raspberries, 6 lbs. ; vinegar, 9 pints: 7 to 10 days. Vinegar drained 
on to fresh raspberries (6 lbs. of) : 3 to 5 days. Poured again on fresh 
raspberries, 6 lbs. : 3 to 5 days. Boiled 5 minutes with its weight of 
sugar. 

Obs. — When the process of sugar-boiling is well understood, it will 
be found an improvement to boil that which is used for raspberry or 
strawberry vinegar to candy height before the liquid is mixed with it ; 
all the scum may then be removed with a couple of minutes simmering, 
and the flavour of the fruit will be more perfectly preserved. For more 
particular directions as to the mode of proceeding, the chapter on con- 
fectionary may be consulted. 

OXFORD PUNCH. 

Extract the essence from the rinds of three lemons by rubbing them 
with sugar in lumps; put these into a large jug with the peel of two 
Seville oranges and of two lemons cut extremely thin, the juice of four 
Seville oranges and often lemons, and six glasses of calf's feet jelly in 
a liquid state. Stir these well together, pour to them two quarts of 
boiling water, cover the jug closely, and set it near the fire for a quar- 
ter of an hour, then strain the mixture through a sieve into a punch 
bowl or jug, sweeten it with a bottle of capillaire, add half a pint of 
white wine, a pint of French brandy, a pint of Jamaica rum, and a bot- 
tle of orange shrub; stir the punch as the spirits are poured in. If not 
sufficiently sweet, add sugar in small quantities, or a spoonful or two of 
capillaire. 

Rinds of lemons rubbed with sugar, 3 ; thin peel of lemons, 2 ; of 
Seville oranges, 2; juice of 4 Seville oranges, and 10 lemons; calf's 
feet jelly, 6 glasses ; water, 2 quarts : a hour. Capillaire, 1 bottle ; 
white wine, ^ pint; French brandy and Jamaica rum, each 1 pint; 
orange shrub, 1 bottle. 

OXFORD RECEIPT FOR BISHOP. 

" Make several incisions in the rind of a lemon,* stick cloves in 
these, and roast the lemon by a slow fire. Put small but equal quanti- 
ties of cinnamon, cloves, mace, and allspice, with a race of ginger, into 
a saucepan with half a pint of water : let itboil until it is reduced one 
half. Boil one bottle of port wine, burn a portion of the spirit out of it 

* A Seville orange stuck with cloves, to many tastes imparts a finer flavour than 
the lemon. 



CHAP. XXVI.] SYRUPS, LIQUEURS, &C. 377 

by applying a lighted paper to the saucepan. Put the roasted lemons 
and spice into the wine ; stir it up well, and let it stand near the fire 
ten minutes. Rub a few knobs of sugar on the rind of a lemon, put the 
sugar into a bowl or jug, with the juice of half a lemon (not roasted), 
pour the wine into it, grate in some nutmeg, sweeten it to your taste, 
and serve it up with the lemon and spice floating in it." 

to mull wine. {An excellent French receipt.) 
Boil in a vvineglassful and a half of water a quarter of an ounce of 
spice (cinnamon, ginger slightly bruised, and cloves), with three ounces 
of fine sugar, until they form a thick syrup, which must not on any 
account be allowed to burn. Pour in a pint of port wine, and stir it 
gently until it is on the point of boiling only: it should then be served 
immediately. The addition of a strip or two of orange-rind cut ex- 
tremely thin, gives to this beverage the flavour of bishop. In France 
light claret takes the place of port wine in making it, and the better 
kinds of vin du pays are very palatable thus prepared. 

Water, 1^ wineglassful ; spice, £ oz., of which fine cloves, 24, and 
of remainder, rather more ginger than cinnamon ; sugar, 3 ozs. : 15 to 
20 minutes. Port wine or claret, 1 pint ; orange-rind, if used, to be 
boiled with the spice. 

Obs. — Sherry, or very fine raisin or ginger wine, prepared as above, 
and stirred hot to the yolks of four fresh eggs, will be found excellent. 

A BIRTHDAY SYLLABUB. 

Put into a large bowl half a pound of sugar broken small, and pour 
on it the strained juice of a couple of fresh lemons, stir these well to- 
gether, and add to them a pint of port wine, a pint of sherry, and half a 
pint of brandy; grate in a fine nutmeg, place the bowl under the cow, 
and milk it full. In serving it put a portion of the curd into each glass, 
fill it up with whey, and pour a little rich cream on the top. The rind 
of a lemon may be rasped with part of the sugar when the flavour is 
approved, but it is not usually added. 

Juice of lemons, 2; sugar, \ lb. or more; port wine, 1 pint; sherry, 
1 pint; brandy \ pint; nutmeg, 1; milk from the cow, 2 quarts. 

06s. — We can testify to the excellence of this receipt. 

cuirasseau, or curacoa. {An excellent and wholesome liqueur.) 
Stick into the rind of a very fine China orange of rich flavour from 
three to four cloves ; put it into a glass jar, and shower over it half a 
pound of good West Indian sugar, not very brown; pour in a quart of 
French brandy ; tie a couple of bladders over the jar, or stop it with a 
cork fitted to its size, and place it in a sunny window, or any other 
warm place, for a month ; shake it gently round every day to dissolve 
the sugar, or stir it, if needful ; then strain it off, and bottle it. It is 
sometimes filtered ; but the long exposure to the air which this occa- 
sions is better avoided. It is an admirable household stomachic liqueur, 
of which we obtained the receipt abroad, from a friend who had it made 
yearly in considerable quantity. 

1 very fine richly-flavoured China orange, left whole (or two small 
ones), stuck with 3 or 4 cloves ; good pale brown sugar, ^ lb. ; French 
brandy, 1 quart: infuse, 1 month. 



378 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XXVI. 

mint julep. (An American Receipt.) 
" Strip the tender leaves of mint into a tumbler, and add to them as 
much wine, brandy, or any other spirit, as you wish to take. Put some 
pounded ice into a second tumbler; pour this on the mint and brandy, 
and continue to pour the mixture from one tumbler to the other until 
the whole is sufficiently impregnated with the flavour of the mint, 
which is extracted by the particles of the ice coming- into brisk contact 
when changed from one vessel to the other. Now place the glass in a 
larger one, containing pounded ice : on taking it out of which it will be 
covered with frost-work." 

DELICIOUS MILK LEMONADE. 

Dissolve six ounces of loaf sugar in a pint of boiling water, and mix 
with them a quarter-pint of lemon-juice, and the same quantity of sherry ; 
then add three quarters of a pint of cold milk, stir the whole well to- 
gether, and pass it through a jelly-bag till clear. 

EXCELLENT PORTABLE LEMONADE. 

Rasp, with a quarter-pound of sugar, the rind of a very fine juicy 
lemon, reduce it to powder, and pour on it the strained juice of the 
fruit. Press the mixture into a jar, and when wanted for use dissolve 
a tablespoonful of it in a glass of water. It will keep a considerable 
time. If too sweet for the taste of the drinker, a very small portion of 
citric acid may be added when it is taken. 

EXCELLENT BARLEY WATER. (Poor Xurifs Receipt.) 

Wipe very clean, by rolling it in a soft cloth, two tablespoonsful of 
pearl barley ; put it into a quart jug, with a lump or two of sugar, a 
grain or two of salt, and a strip of lemon-peel, cut thin ; fill up the jug 
with boiling water and keep the mixture gently stirred for some min- 
utes; then cover it down, and let it stand till perfectly cold. In twelve 
hours, or less, it will be fit for use; but it is better when made over- 
night. If these directions be followed, the barley-water will be com- 
paratively clear, and very soft and pleasant to drink. A glass of calf's 
feet jelly added to the barley is an infinite improvement; but as lemon- 
rind is often extremely unpalatable to invalids, their taste should be 
consulted before that ingredient is added, as it should be also for the 
degree of sweetness that is desired. After the barley-water has been 
poured off once, the jug may be filled a second time with boiling water, 
and even a third time with advantage. 

raisin wine ; (which, if long kept, really resembles foreign.) 
First boil the water which is to be used for the wine, and let it again 
become perfectly cold ; then put into a sound sweet cask eight pounds 
of fine Malaga raisins for each gallon that is to be used, taking out only 
the quite large stalks ; the fruit and water may be put in alternately 
until the cask Is full, the raisins being well pressed down in it; lay the 
bung lightly over, stir the wine every day or two, and keep it full by 
the addition of water that has, like the first, been boiled, but which 
must always be quite cold when it is used. So soon as the fermentation 
has entirely ceased, which may be in from six to seven weeks, press in 
the bung, and leave the wine untouched for twelve months; draw it off 
then into a clean cask, and fine it, if necessary, with isinglass, tied in a 



CHAP. XXVI.] SYRUPS, LIQUEURS, &C. 379 

muslin and suspended in it. We have not ourselves had this receipt 
tried ; but we have tasted wine made by it which had been five years 
kept, and which so much resembled a rich foreign wine, that we could 
with difficulty believe it was home made. 

To each gallon of water (boiled and left till cold) 8 lbs. of fine 
Malaga raisins ; to stand twelve months ; then to be drawn off and 
fined. 

Obs. — The refuse raisins make admirable vinegar if fresh water be 
poured to them, and the cask placed in the sun. March is the best 
time for making this wine. 

EXCELLENT ELDERBERRY WINE. 

Strip the berries, which should be fresh, and gathered on a dry day, 
clean from the stalks, and measure them into a tub or large earthen 
pan. Pour boiling water on them, in the proportion of two gallons to 
three of berries, press them down into the liquor, cover them closely, 
and let them remain until the following day; then strain the juice from 
the fruit through a sieve or cloth, and, when this is done, squeeze from 
the berries the greater part of the remaining juice, mix it with that 
which was first poured off, measure the wmole, add to it three pounds 
of sugar, three quarters of an ounce of cloves, and one ounce of ginger, 
for every gallon, and boil it twenty minutes, keeping it thoroughly 
skimmed. Put it, when something more than milk-warm, into a per- 
fectly dry and sweet cask (or if but a very small quantity of wine be 
made, into large stone bottles, which answer the purpose quite well), 
fill this entirely, and set the wine directly, with a large spoonful of new 
yeast dropped into the bung-hole, and just stirred round in the liquor, or 
with a small toasted crust thickly spread with yeast.* 

VERY GOOD GINGER WINE. 

Boil together, for half an hour, fourteen quarts of water, twelve 
pounds of sugar, a quarter of a pound of the best ginger bruised, and 
the thin rinds of six large lemons. Put the whole, when milk-warm, into 
a clean dry cask, with the juice of the lemons, and half a pound of sun 
raisins ; add one large spoonful of thick yeast, and stir the wine every 
day for ten days. When it has ceased to ferment, add an ounce of isin- 
glass, and a pint of brandy; bung the wine close, and in two months it 
will be fit to bottle, but must remain longer in the cask should it be too 
sweet. When it can be obtained, substitute for the water in this 
receipt cider fresh from the press, which will give a very superior 
wine. 

Water, 14 quarts; sugar, 12 pounds; lemon-rinds, 6; ginger, ± lb.; 
■J hour. Juice of lemons, 6; raisins, ^ lb. ; yeast, 1 spoonful; isinglass, 
1 oz. ; brandy, 1 pint. 

EXCELLENT ORANGE WINE. 

Take half a chest of Seville oranges, pare off the rinds as thin as 
possible, put two thirds of them into six gallons of water, and let thern 
remain for twenty-four hours. Squeeze the oranges (which ought to 
yield seven or eight quarts of juice) through a sieve into a pan, and as 
they are done throw them into six gallons more of water ; let them 



* In from fourteen to twenty flays this wine will have fermented sufficiently; ia 
»hr :e months it will be ready to drink. 



380 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XXVI. 

be washed well in it with the hands, and then put into another six gal- 
lons of water and left till the following day. For each gallon of wine, 
put into the cask three pounds and a quarter of loaf sugar, and the 
liquor strained clear from the rinds and pulp. Wash these again and 
again, should more liquor be required to fill the cask ; but do not at any- 
time add raw water. Stir the wine daily until the sugar is perfectly 
dissolved, and let it ferment from four to five weeks; add to it two 
bottles of brandy, stop it down, and in twelve months it will be fit to 
bottle. 

Obs. — The excellence of all wine depends so much upon the fermen- 
tation being properly conducted, that unless the mode of regulating 
this be understood by the maker, there will always be great danger of 
failure in the operation. There is, we believe, an excellent work upon 
the subject by Dr. McCulloch, which the reader who needs information 
upon it will do well to consult : our own experience is too slight to 
enable us to multiply our receipts. 

CURRA.NT WINE. 

Gather the currants when dry, extract the juice, either by mashing 
and pressing the fruit, or putting it in a jar, placed in boiling water; 
strain the juice, and for every gallon allow one gallon of water and 
three pounds of sugar. Dissolve the sugar in the water, and take off* 
the scum; let it cool, add it to the currant-juice, and put the mixture 
in a keg, but do not close it tightly till it has ceased fermenting, which 
will not be under a week. In three or four weeks it may be bottled. 
The white of an egg beaten, mixed with a teaspoonful of cream of 
tartar, and stirred into the liquid, makes the wine look clear and 
bright. 

TO CLEAN BOTTLES IN LARGE NUMBERS. 

To do this in the best and quickest maner, rinse such amongst them 
as may particularly require it; put a little hay or a coarse cloth into a 
copper, and arrange them in it as compactly as possible ; cover them 
with cold water, light the fire, and boil them gently for half an hour ; 
take them out, let them cool, rinse them well, and when dry they will 
be ready for use. One or two may be broken in the process, but it is 
considered the most advantageous method of proceeding where they are 
very extensively used. 



CHAP. XXVII.] COFFEE, CHOCOLATE, &C. 



381 



CHAPTER XXVII. 
COFFEE, CHOCOLATE, &c. 

1 




U 3 

TO ROAST COFFEE. 

Persons who drink coffee habitually, and who are particular about 
its flavour and quality, should purchase the best kind in a raw state, 
and have it roasted at home. This can be done in very small quanti- 
ties by means of the inexpensive apparatus shown above ; and the sup- 
ply of charcoal needed for it being- very trifling- indeed. The cylinder 
which contains the coffee should be only half filled, and it should be 
turned rather slowly over the fire, which should never be fierce, until 
a strong- aromatic smell is emitted ; the movement should then be 
quickened, as the grain is in that case quite heated, and it will become 
too highly coloured before it is roasted through, if slowly finished. 
When it is of a fine, light, equal brown, which must be ascertained, 
until some little experience has been acquired, by sliding back the 
door of the cylinder, and looking at it occasionally towards the end of 
the process, spread it quickly upon a large dish, and throw a folded 
cloth over it. Let it remain thus until it is quite cold, then put it into 
canisters or bottles, and exclude the air carefully from it. Mr. Web- 
ster, in his admirable Encyclopaedia of Domestic Economy,* says, "Mr. 
Donovan recommends that, instead of roasting the coffee in an atmo- 
sphere of its own steam, it should first be dried in an iron pan, over a 
very gentle fire, being constantly stirred until the colour becomes yel- 
low ; it is then to be pounded into coarse fragments, by no means too 
fine, each grain being divided into four or five parts only: it is then to 
be transferred to the roaster, and scorched to the proper degree." This 
plan we have not tried, because we have found the other to answer 



* This work contains much useful and valuable information on an infinity of sub- 
jects connected with Domestic economy. 



392 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XXVII. 

quite well ; though Mr. Donovan's might nevertheless prove a very su- 
perior one. 

TO MAKE COFFEE. 

It is more usual at the present day to filter than to boil coffee, but 
many persons still prefer the latter mode. The degree of strength 
which is to be given must of course depend on the taste of those for 
whom it is prepared ; but it should always be good when served to 
strangers, as a preference for weak coffee is very rare, and in a vast 
many instances it would be peculiarly disagreeable to the drinkers, 
more especially so to those who have resided much abroad, where this 
beverage is in general much better prepared than it is here. 

An ounce of the berries, if recently roasted, and ground at the in- 
stant of using them, will make, with the addition of a pint of water, 

two breakfast-cupsful of suffi- 
ciently good coffee for com- 
mon family use. It will be 
stronger if slowly filtered in 
what is called a percolator, or 
coffee-biggin, than if it be 
boiled. Press the powder close- 
ly down, measure the proper 
quantity of water into a com- 
mon coffee-pot, or small ket- 
tle, pour in sufficient to just 
wet the coffee in the first in- 
stance, and then add the re- 
mainder slowly, keeping the 
water boiling all the time. 
Let it run quite through be- 
fore the top of the percolator 
Patent Percolator with Spirit-Lamp. jg ijfl. e( j ff } anc j serve i t verv 

hot with boiling milk or cream, or with both, or with boiling milk and 
cold cream. The proportion of coffee, after the first trial, can easily be 
increased or diminished at will. To make French breakfast-coffee, 
pour only a third as much of water on the powder, fill the cups two- 
thirds with good new boiling milk, then add the coffee, which should be 
very strong. For the cafe noir served after dinner in all French fami- 
lies put less water still (this is the very essence of coffee, of which, 
however, not more than a small cup about two-thirds filled, and highly 
sweetened with sugar in lumps, is generally taken by each person), and 
serve it without cream or milk, or any accompaniment, except white 
sugar-candy in powder, or highly refined sugar in lumps. This is drunk 
immediately after the dinner, in families of moderate rank, generally 
before they leave the table; in more refined life, it is served in the 
drawing-room the instant dinner is ended ; sometimes with liquors after 
it, but not invariably. 

To boil coffee and refine it : put the necessary quantity of water into 
a pot which it will not fill by some inches ; when it boils, stir in the 
coffee ; for unless this is at once moistened, it remains on the top and 
is liable to fly over. Give it one or two strong boils, then raise it from 
the fire, and simmer it for ten minutes only; pour out a large cupful 
twice, hold it high over the coffro-pot and pour it in again, then set it 




CHAP. XXVII.] 



COFFEE, CHOCOLATE, 



&C. 



383 



on the hob for ten minutes longer. It will be perfectly clear, unless 
mismanaged, without any other fining. Should more, however, be 
deemed necessary, a very small pinch of isinglass, or a clean egg-shell, 
with a little of the white adhering to it, is the best that can be used. 
(We cannot recommend the skin of any fish.) If tried, with the same 
proportions by both the methods we have given, the reader will easily 
ascertain that which answers best. Never use mustard to fine coffee 
with. It is a barbarous custom of which we have heard foreigners who 
have been in England vehemently complain ! 

Coffee, 2 ozs. ; water, 1 quart. Filtered ; or boiled 10 minutes ; left 
to clear 10 minutes. 

burnt coffee ; (in France vulgarly called Gloria.') 

Make some coffee as strong and clear as possible, sweeten it in the 
cup with white sugar almost to syrup, then pour brandy on the top 
gently over a spoon, set fire to it with a lighted paper, and when the 
spirit is in part consumed, blow out the flame and drink the gloria quite 
hot. 

to make chocolate ; (French Receipt.) 

An ounce of chocolate, if good, will be suffi- 
cient for one person. Rasp, and then boil it 
from five to ten minutes with about four table- 
spoonsful of water ; when it is extremely smooth 
add nearly a pint of new milk, give it another 
boil, stir it well, or mill it, and serve it directly. 
For water-chocolate use three quarters of a pint 
of water instead of the milk, and send rich hot 
cream to table with it. The taste must decide 
whether it shall be made thicker or thinner. 

Chocolate, 2 ozs. ; water, quarter-pint, or ra- 
ther more; milk, 1; pint: ^ minute. 

Obs. — The general reader will understand 
the use of the chocolate-mill shown in the engraving with the pot; but 
to the uninitiated it may be as well to observe, that it is worked quickly 
round between both hands to give a fine froth to the chocolate. It alsc 
serves in lieu of a whisk for working creams, or jellies, to a froth or 
whip. 

TO MAKE TEA. 

Scald the teapot with boiling water; then put in the tea, allowing 
Ihree teaspoonsful to a pint of water — or for every two persons. Pour 
on the water. It must be boiling hot, and let the tea steep about ten 
minutes. 

Black tea is healthier than green. Hyson and Souchong mixed to- 
gether, half and half, is a pleasanter beverage than either alone, and 
safpr for those who drink strong tea, than to trust themselves wholly 
with green. 




384 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XXVIII. 



CHAPTER XXVIII. 
BREAD. 

TO PURIFY YEAST FOR BREAD OR CAKES. 

The yeast procured from a public brewery is often so extremely bit- 
ter that it can only be rendered fit for use by frequent washings, and 
after these even it should be cautiously employed. Mix it, when first 
brought in, with a large quantity of cold water, and set it by until the 
following morning in a cool pi <;e ; then drain off the water, and stir 
the yeast up well with as much more of fresh ; it must again stand 
several hours before the water can be poured clear from it. By changing 
this daily in winter, and both night and morning in very hot weather, 
the yeast may be preserved fit for use much longer than it would other- 
wise be ; and should it ferment rather less freely after a time, a small 
portion of brown sugar stirred to it before the bread is made will quite 
restore its strength. 

German yeast, imported in a solid state, is now much sold in London, 
and answers, we are told, remarkably well ; but we have not ourselves 
had an opportunity of proving it. 

THE OVEN. 

A brick oven, heated with wood, is far superior to any other for baking 
bread, as well as for most other purposes, the heat of an iron one being 
much less easy to regulate ; but those attached to the kitchen ranges 
are convenient, for the facility they afford at all times of baking in a 
small way. They are, however, we should say, far from economical as 
regards the proportion of fuel required to heat them ; and the same ob- 
jection may be made to the American oven also ; the strong smell, too, 
emitted from the iron ones, and diffused often entirely through a house, 
is peculiarly unpleasant. A brick oven should be well heated with fag- 
got wood, or with a faggot, and two or three solid logs ; and after it is 
cleared, the door should be closely shut for quite half an hour before the 
baking commences; the heat will then be well sustained for a succes- 
sion of bread, pies, cakes, and small pastry. The servant who habitually 
attends at an oven will soon become acquainted with the precise quan- 
tity of fuel which it requires, and all other peculiarities which may be 
connected with it. In general more time must be allowed to bake any 
thing in an iron than in a brick oven. 

TO MAKE BREAD. 

Every cook, and we might almost say, every woman, ought to be 
perfectly acquainted with the mode of making good household bread ; 
and skill in preparing other articles of food is poor compensation for 
ignorance upon thx«3 one essential point. A very slight degree of atten- 
tion, moreover, will enable any person to succeed in it, and there is, 
consequently, small excuse for those who neglect to render themselves 
properly acquainted with the process. 

The best flour will generally be found the cheapest in the end ; it 
should be purchased if possible from a miller who can be depended on 
for supplying it good and unadulterated. Let it be stored always in a 



CHAP. XXVIII.] BREAD. 385 

dry place, as damp is very injurious to it; if kept habitually in a chest, 
this should be entirely emptied at intervals, cleaned with great nicety, 
and not tilled again until it is perfectly dry. The kneading trough tub, 
or pan, with every thing else indeed used for the bread, or for the oven, 
should at all times be kept scrupulously clean. 

The yeast of mild home-brewed beer is the best that can be procured, 
and requires no purifying ; but it should be strained through a hair- 
sieve after it is mixed with a portion of warm milk, or water, before it 
is added to the flour. 

Very rapid fermentation, which is produced by using more than the 
necessary quantity of yeast, is by no means advantageous to the bread, 
which not only becomes dry and stale from it, but is of less sweet and 
pleasant flavour than that which is more slowly fermented. In winter 
it should always be placed near the fire, but never sufficiently so to be- 
come hot ; nor should it ever be allowed to become perfectly cold. Put 
half a bushel (more or less, according to the consumption of the family) 
of flour into the kneading tub or trough, and hollow it well in the mid- 
dle ; dilute a pint of yeast as it is brought from the brewery, or half 
the quantity if it has been washed and rendered solid, with four quarts 
jt more of lukewarm milk or water, or a mixture of the two ; stir into 
it, from the surrounding part, with a wooden spoon, as much flour as 
will make a thick batter ; throw a little over it, and leave this, which is 
called the leaven, to rise before proceeding further. In about an hour 
it will have swollen considerably, and have burst through the coating 
of flour on the top ; then pour in as much more warm liquid as will 
convert the whole, with good kneading, and this should not be spared 
into a firm dough, of which the surface should be entirely free from 
lumps or crumbs. Throw a cloth over, and let it remain until it has 
risen very much a second time, which will be in an hour, or something 
more, if the batch be large. Then work it lightly up, and mould it 
into loaves of from two to three pounds weight ; send them directly to 
a well-heated oven, and bake them from an hour and a half to an hour 
and three quarters. 

Flour, ^ bushel ; salt (when it is liked), 4 to 6 ozs. ; yeast, 1 pint 
unwashed, or ^ pint if purified ; milk, or water, 2 quarts : 1 to 1| hour. 
Additional liquid as needed. 

bordyke bread. (Author's Receipt.) 
Mix with a gallon of flour a large teas-poonful of fine salt, make a 
hollow in the centre, and pour in two tablespoonsful of solid, well- 
purified yeast, gradually diluted with about two pints and a half of 
milk, and work it into a thick batter with the surrounding flour ; dust 
a little on the top, and leave it to rise from an hour to an hour and a 
half; then knead it up with as much more warm skimmed milk as will 
render it quite firm and smooth without being very stiff; let it rise an- 
other hour, and divide it into three loaves ; put them into square tins 
slightly buttered, or into round baking pans, and bake them about an 
hour and a quarter in a well-heated oven. The dough can be formed 
into household loaves if preferred, and sent to the oven in the usual 
way. When a finer and more spongy kind of bread is required for 
immediate eating, substitute new milk for skimmed, dissolve in it about 
an ounce of butter, leave it more liquid when the sponge is set, and let 

24 



386 MODERN COOKERY. [dlAP. XXVIII. 

the whole be lightly kneaded into a lithe dough ; the bread thus made 
will be excellent when new, and for a day or so after it is baked, but it 
will become dry sooner than the other. 

Flour, 1 gallon; salt, 1 teaspoonml ; skimmed milk, 2h pints: to rise 
from 1 to 1^ hour. Additional milk, 1 to 2 pints: to rise 1 hour. 3 
loaves, baked li hour. 

Obs. 1. — A few spoonsful of cream will wonderfully improve either 
of the above receipts, and sweet butter-milk substituted for the other 
will give to the bread the shortness of a cake; we would particularly 
recommend it for trial when it can be procured. 

Obs. 2. — For an invalid, especially when the digestion is impaired, 
butter should be altogether omitted from the bread ; and eggs, which 
are often added to the finer sorts of rolls, are better avoided also. 

Obs. 3. — We must repeat our caution against milk or water of a 
scalding heat being ever mixed with the yeast : it should he warm, 
rather more so than when taken from the cow, but not much. 

BROWN BREAD. 

Make this by any of the foregoing receipts, with meal, as it is called 
(that is to say, the wheat just as it is ground, either separated from the 
coarse bran or not, according to the quality of the bread required), 
instead of flour. It ferments easily, and does not, therefore, require a 
very full proportion of yeast ; and it absorbs more moisture than the 
Hour ; it also retains it longer, if properly baked. The loaves should be 
well soaked in the oven, but not over-dried. 

Obs. — The best bread we ever tasted was made in great part with 
rye-flour : this was in a provincial town in France. 

• POTATO BREAD. 

One pound of good mealy potatoes, steamed or boiled very dry, in the 
ordinary way, or prepared by Captain Kater's receipt (see Chapter 
XV.), and rubbed quite hot, through a coarse sieve, into a couple of 
pounds of flour, with which they should be well mixed, will produce 
excellent bread, which will remain moist much longer than wheaten 
bread made as usual. The yeast should be added immediately after the 
potatoes. An ounce or two of butter, an egg, and some new milk, will 
convert this bread into very superior rolls. 

DYSPEPSIA BREAD. 

This bread is now best known as "Graham bread*' — not that Doctor 
Graham invented or discovered the manner of its preparation, but that 
he has been unwearied and successful in recommending it to the public. 
It is an excellent article of diet for the dyspeptic and the costive; and 
for most persons of sedentary habits would he beneficial. It agrees 
well with children ; and, in short, I think it should be used in every 
family, though not to the exclusion of fine bread. The most difficult 
point in manufacturing this bread, is to obtain good pure meal. It is 
said that much of the bread commonly sold as dyspepsia, is made of the 
bran or middlings, from which the fine flour has been separated; and 
that saw-dust is sometimes mixed with the meal. To be certain that it 
is good, send good, clean wheat to the mill, have it ground rather 
coarsely, and keep the meal in a dry, cool place. Before using it, sift 



CHAP. XXVIII.] BREAD. 387 

it through a common hair-sieve ; this will separate the very coarse and 
harsh particles. 

Take six quarts of this wheat meal, one tea-cup of* good yeast, and 
a half a tea-cup of molasses, mix these with a pint of milk-warm water 
and tea-spoonful of pearlash or salseratus. Make a hole in the flour, 
and stir this mixture in the middle of the meal till it is like batter. 
Then proceed as with fine flour bread. Make the dough when suffi- 
ciently light into four loaves, which will weigh two pounds per loaf 
when baked. It requires a hotter oven than fine flour bread, and must 
bake about an hour and a half. 

RYE AND INDIAN BREAD. 

This is a sweet and nourishing diet, and generally acceptable to 
children. 

It is economical, and when wheat is scarce, is a pretty good substitute 
for dyspepsia bread. 

There are many different proportions of mixing it — some put one- 
third Indian meal with two of rye; others like one-third rye and two 
of Indian ; others prefer it half and half. 

If you use the largest proportion of rye meal, make your dough stiff, 
so that it will mould into loaves ; — when it is two-thirds Indian, it should 
be softer, and baked in deep earthen or tin pans after the following 
rules. 

Take four quarts of sifted Indian meal ; put it into a glazed earthen 
pan, sprinkle over it a tablespoonful of fine salt; pour over it about two 
quarts of boiling water, stir and work it till every part of the meal is 
thoroughly wet; indian meal absorbs a great quantity of water. When 
it is about milk-warm, work in two quarts of rye meal, half a pint of 
lively yeast, mixed with a pint of warm water ; add more warm water 
if needed. Work the mixture well with your hands: it should be stiff, 
but not firm as flour dough. Have ready a large, deep, well-buttered 
pan; put in the dough, and smooth the top by putting your hand in 
warm water, and then patting down the loaf. Set this to rise in a 
warm place in the winter ; in the summer it should not be put by the 
fire. \Vhen it begins to crack on the top, which will usually be in 
about an hour or an hour and a half, put it into a well-heated oven, and 
bake it three or four hours. It is better to let it stand in the oven all 
night, unless the weather is warm. Indian meal requires to be well 
cooked. The loaf will weigh between seven and eight pounds. Pan- 
bread keeps best in large loaves. 

Many use milk in mixing bread ; — in the country, where milk is 
plentiful, it is a good practice, as bread is certainly richer wet with 
sweet milk than with water ; but it will not keep so long in warm 
weather. 

Baking can very well be done in a stove; during the winter this is 
an economical way of cooking — but the stove must be carefully watched 
or there is danger of scorching the bread. 

GENEVA ROLLS. 

Break down very small three ounces of butter into a couple of pounds 
of flour ; add a little salt, and set the sponge with a large tablespoonful 
of solid yeast, mixed with a pint of new milk, and a tablespoonful or 
more of strong saffron water ; let it rise for a full hour, then st ir to a 



388 MODERN COOKERY. £cHAP. XXVIII. 

couple of well-beaten eggs, as much hot milk as will render them luke- 
warm, and wet the rolls with them to a light, lithe dough ; leave it I'rom 
half to three quarters of an hour longer, mould it into small rolls, brush 
them with beaten yolk of egg, and bake them from twenty minutes to 
half an hour. The addition of six ounces of good sugar, three of but- 
ter, half a pound or more of currants, the grated rind of a large lemon, 
and a couple of ounces of candied orange-rind, will convert these into 
excellent buns. When the flavour of the saffron is not liked, omit it 
altogether. Only so much should be used at any time as will give a 
rich colour to the bread. 

Flour, 2 lbs. ; butter, 3 ozs. ; solid yeast 1 large tablespoonful (saffron, 
1 teaspoonful ; water, less than a quarter-pint); new milk, 1 pint: 1 
hour, or more. 2 eggs, more milk: f hour : baked 20 to 30 minutes. 

RUSKS. 

Break very small, six ounces of butter into a couple of pounds of fine 
dry flour, and mix them into a lithe paste, with two tablespoonsful of 
mild beer-yeast, three well-beaten eggs, and nearly half a pint of warm 
new milk. When it has risen to its full height knead it smooth, and 
make it into very small loaves or thick cakes, cut with a round cake- 
cutter ; place them on a floured tm, and let them stand in a warm place, 
to prove, from ten to twenty minutes before they are set into the oven. 
Bake them about a quarter of an hour; divide them while they are still 
warm, and put them into a very slow oven to dry. When they are crisp 
quite through, they are done. Four teaspoonsful of sifted sugar must 
be added when sweetened rusks are preferred. 

Flour, 2 lbs. ; butter, 6 ozs. ; yeast, 2 tablespoonsful ; eggs, 3 ; new 
milk, nearly half a pint ; baked } hour. 

CRUSTS TO SERVE WITH CHEESE. 

Take a half-baked loaf from the oven, and tear it into small rough 
bits with a couple of forks ; lay these on a tin, and put them back into 
the oven for ten minutes. If a light loaf be made for the purpose, with 
a couple of ounces of butter and new milk, they will quite resemble 
rusks. 

GOOD CAPTAINS' BISCUITS. 

Make some fine white flour into a smooth paste with new milk ; 
divide it into small balls; roll, and afterwards pull them with the 
fingers as thin as possible ; prick them all over, and bake them in a 
somewhat brisk oven from eight to twelve minutes. Thin cream may 
be used for them on occasion, instead of milk, or a morsel of butter may 
be worked into the flour ; but they are very good without this last. 

BREAKFAST BATTER-CAKES. 

Take one pint of milk, three eggs, a piece of butter as large as an 
egg, two spoonsful of yeast, and flour enough to make a stiff batter ; bake 
them in tin hoops or on a griddle, let them stand and rise all night, but 
not in a very warm place. 

TEA CAKES. 

Rub into a pound of flour, an ounce of butter, a beaten egg, and hall 
a teaspoonful of salt; wet it with warmed milk; make the paste rather 
stiff, and let it remain before the fire, where it will be kept warm for an 
hour or two; then roll it thin and cut it with the top of a tumbler; bake 
it quicK. 



CHAP. XXVIII.] BREAD CAKES, &C. 



Muffins are baked on a hot iron plate, and not in an oven. Tc ?. 
quarter of a peck of flour add three-quarters of a pint of yeast, four 
ounces of salt, and as much water (or milk) slightly warmed, as is suffi- 
cient to form a dough of rather a soft consistency. Small portions of 
the dough are then put into holes, previously made in a layer of flour 
about two inches thick, placed on a board, and the whole is covered up 
in a blanket, and suffered to stand near a fire, to cause the dough to rise; 
when this is effected, they will each exhibit a semi-globular shape; 
they are then placed on a heated iron plate, and baked; when the bot- 
toms of the muffins begin to acquire a brownish colour, they are turned, 
and baked on the opposite side. 

WHEAT MUFFINS. 

Melt a small piece of butter into a quart of milk, and set it aside 
until cold — beat four eggs very light, and make a batter by adding 
alternately and very gradually a little milk and a little flour, until the 
batter is of the proper consistence, which is quite thin — then add a 
large spoonful of yeast, if you do not use the powders. Bake them 
in muffin-rings on a griddle, and butter them before serving — they must 
be torn asunder to butter, as cutting them open renders them heavy. 

RICE MUFFINS. 

Rice muffins are made in the same manner exactly as rice cakes, 
except that the batter of the former is thinner — that is, to a quart of 
milk and three eggs, you put less rice and less flour. 

RICE CAKES. 

Boil half a pint of rice until quite soft, setting it aside until perfectly 
cool; beat three eggs very light and put them with a pint of wheat flour 
to the rice, making it into a batter with a quart of milk; beat it well, 
and set it to rise with a spoonful of yeast, or use the yeast powders as 
directed in a note at the foot or' this page. Bake on a griddle, and but- 
ter them before sending them to table. 

BUCKWHEAT CAKES. 

To a quart of buckwheat meal put a little Indian meal (say a table- 
spoonful) and a little salt; make them into a batter with cold water, 
taking care to beat it very well, as the excellence of buckwheat cakes 
depends very much on their being well beaten ; then put in a large 
spoonful of good yeast,* and set to rise; when sufficientiy risen, bake 
them a clear brown on a griddle. They are usually buttered before 
being sent to table. 

FLANNEL CAKES. 

Melt a table-spoonful of butter in a quart of milk, and after stirring it 

* Many persons now make use of the yeast powders, and give th.-in a decided pre- 
ference. They certainly possess the advantage of requiring less time, and thereby 
enabling you to make muffins, buckwheat cakes, • &x.— which, set with yeast, require 
some hours in the preparation— at a quarter of an hour's notice. The ingredients are 
the super-carbonate of soda and tartaric acid, to be used in the following manner:— 
A spoonful of soda, and a spoon two thirds full of tartaric acid, are to" be dissolved 
separately in a little water. The soda is to be put into the batter when it is partly 
beaten, taking care that it is perfectly dissolved ; and the acid is to be added ivhen the 
cook is ready to begin baking, as they must not be allowed to stand aft?i the effer- 
vescence takes place. 



390 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XXVIII. 

well, set it away to cool ; then heat four eggs very light, and stir them 
into the milk in turn with half a pound of sifted flour; put in a spoon- 
ful of yeast, and set it aside. These are baked on a griddle like buck- 
wheat cakes, and are always buttered before being sent to table. 



It is impossible to have good light bread, unless you have lively, 
sweet yeast. When common family beer is well brewed and kept in a 
clean cask, the settlings are the best of yeast. If you do not keep beer, 
then make common yeast by the following method. 

Take two quarts of water, one handful of hops, two of wheat bran ; 
boil these together twenty minutes; strain off the water, and while it 
is boiling hot, stir in either wheat or rye flour, till it becomes a thick 
batter; let it stand till it is about blood warm; then add a half pint of 
good smart yeast and a large spoonful of molasses, if you have it, and 
stir the whole well. Set it in a cool place in summer and a warm one 
in winter. When it becomes perfectly light, it is fit for use. If not 
needed immediately, it should, when it becomes cold, be put in a clean 
jug or bottle ; do not fill the vessel, and the cork must be left loose till 
the next morning, when the yeast will have done working. Then cork 
it tightly, and set in a cool place in the ceilar. It will keep ten or 
twelve days. 

MILK YEAST. 

Take one pint of new milk; one teaspoonful of fine salt, and a large 
spoon of flour — stir these well together; set the mixture by the fire, 
and keep it just lukewarm ; it will be fit for use in an hour. Twice the 
quantity of common yeast is necessary; it will not keep long. Bread 
made of this yeast dries very soon; but in the summer it is sometimes 
convenient to make this kind when yeast is needed suddenly. 

Never keep yeast in a tin vessel. If you find the old yeast sour, 
and have not time to prepare new, put in salseratus, a teaspoonful to a 
pint of yeast, when ready to use it. If it foams up lively, it will raise 
tiie bread ; if it does not, never use it. 

HARD YEAST. 

Boil three ounces of hops in six quarts of water, till only two quarts 
remain. Strain it, and stir in while it is boiling hot, wheat or rye 
meal till it is thick as batter. When it is about milk-warm add half a 
pint of good yeast, and let it stand till it is very light, which will pro- 
bably be about three hours. Then work in sifted Indian meal till it is 
stiff dough. Roll it out on a board; cut it in oblong cakes about three 
inches by two. They should be about half an inch thick. Lay these 
cakes on a smooth board, over which a little flour has been dusted; 
prick them with a fork, and set the board in a dry clean chamber or 
store-room, where tffe sun and air may be freely admitted. Turn them 
every day. They will dry in a fortnight unless the weather is damp. 
When the cakes are fully dry, put them into a coarse cotton bag; hang 
it up in a cool, dry place. If rightly prepared these cakes will keep a 
year, and save the trouble of making new yeast every week. 

Two cakes will make yeast sufficient for a peck of flour. Break 
them into a pint of lukewarm water and stir in a large spoonful of flour, 



CHAF. XXVIII.] BREAD, CAKES, &C. 391 

the evening- before you bake. Set the mixture where it can be kept 
moderately warm. In the morning it will be lit for use. 

POTATOE YEAST 

Is made of mealy potatoes boiled thoroughly soft — they are then skin- 
ned and mashed as smooth as possible, when as much hot water should 
be put on them as will make a mash of the consistency of good beer 
yeast. Add to every pound of potatoes two ounces of treacle, and when 
just warm stir in tor every pound of potatoes two large spoonsful of 
yeast. Keep it warm till it has done fermenting, and in twenty-four 
hours it will be fit for use. A pound of potatoes will make nearly a 
quart of yeast, and it is said to be equally as good as brewers' yeast. 

The following is Dr. LettsonCs directions for making another 

Prepared Yeast. 
Thicken two quarts of water with four ounces of flour, boil it for 
half an hour, then sweeten it with three of brown sugar ; when almost 
cold, pour it along with four spoonsful of bakers' yeast into an earthen 
jug, deep enough for the fermentation to go on without running over; 
place it for a day near the fire ; then pour off the thin liquor from the 
top, shake the remainder, and close it up for use, first straining i< 
through a sieve. To preserve it sweet, set it in a cool cellar, or hang 
it some depth in a well. Always keep some of this yeast to make the 
next quantity that is wanted.] 



CHAPTER XXIX. 



AMERICAN MODE OF COOKING INDIAN CORN, PUMP- 
KINS, &c. 

Maize or Indian corn has never been extensively used in Great Bri- 
tain, and the editor has every reason to believe that this has arisen from 
the almost total ignorance of the English people as to the mode of pre- 
paring it for human food. It is, perhaps, the most productive crop that 
can be grown, and its nutritious qualities, when properly prepared, are 
equal to its productiveness. We are satisfied that it may be grown in 
that country, or, at any rate, in the south and eastern parts of it, with 
great advantage ; indeed, the experiment has been tried, and with de- 
cided success. The late Mr. Cobbett grew an average crop of the dwarf 
kind on Barn Elms farm, Surrey, for three or four years. 

INDIAN CAKE, OR BANNOCK. 

This, as prepared in our own country, is cheap and very nice food. 
Take one quart of Indian meal, dressed or sifted, two tablespoonsful of 
treacle or molasses, two teaspoonsful of salt, a bit of" shortening" (but- 
ter or lard) half as big as a hen's egg, stirred together; make it pretty 
moist with scalding water, put it into a well-greased pan, smooth over 
the surface with a spoon, and bake it brown on both sides before a quick 
fire. A little stewed pumpkin, scalded with the meal, improves tie 
cake. Bannock split and dipped in butter makes very nice toast. 



892 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XXIX. 

GREEN INDIAN CORN. 

This is a most delicious vegetable. When used as a vegetable, the 
cobs, or ears, are plucked about the time that the corn has arrived at a 
milky state, or just before it assumes a solid substance. A part of the 
leaves or filaments by which the cob, or ear is surrounded, is taken 
away, and the cobs boiled from twenty to forty minutes, "according to 
its age." When it is done, it is served with cold or melted butter, and 
eaten (after being stripped of its remaining leaves) by taking the two 
ends of the cob in the hands, and biting oft' the corn. The editor can 
bear testimony to its delicious quality. 

INDIAN CORN, OR MAIZE PUDDING, BAKED. 

Scald a quart cf milk (skimmed milk will do), and stir in seven table- 
spoonsful of sifted Indian meal, a teaspoonful of salt, a teacupful of mo- 
lasses or treacle, or coarse moist sugar, and a tablespoon ful of powdered 
ginger or sifted cinnamon : bake three or four hours. If whey is wanted, 
pour in a little cold milk after it is all mixed. 

BOILED MAIZE PUDDING. 

Stir Indian meal and warm milk together "pretty stiff;" a little salt 
and two or three "great spoonsful" of molasses added; also a spoonful 
of ginger, or any other spice that may be preferred. Boil it in a tight- 
covered pan, or in a very thick cloth ; if the water gets in, it will ruin 
it. Leave plenty of room, for Indian meal swells very much. The 
milk with which it is mixed should be merely warmed; if it be scalding 
hot, the pudding will break to pieces. Some chop suet very fine, and 
warm in the milk; others warm thin slices of apple to be stirred into 
the pudding. Water will answer instead of milk. 

PUMPKIN AND SQUASH PIE. 

The usual way of dressing pumpkins in England in a pie is to cut 
them into slices, mixed with apples, and bake them with a top crust 
like ordinary pies. A quite different process is pursued in America, 
and the editor can testify to the immense superiority of the Yankee 
method. In England, the pumpkin is grown for show rather than for 
use; nevertheless, when properly .dressed, it is a very delicious vege- 
table, and a universal favourite with our New England neighbours. 

The following is the American method of making a pumpkin pie : — 
Take out the seeds, and pare the pumpkin or squash; but in taking out 
the seeds do not scrape the inside of the pumpkin; the part nearest the 
seed is the sweetest; then stew the pumpkin, and strain it through a 
sieve or colander. To a quart of milk, for a family pie, three eggs are 
sufficient. Stir in the stewed pumpkin with your milk and beaten-up 
eggs till it is as thick as you can stir round rapidly and easily. If the 
pie is wanted richer make it thinner, and add another egg or two; but 
even one egg to a quart of milk makes "very decent pies." Sweeten 
with molasses or sugar; add two teaspoonsful of salt, two tablespoonsful 
of sifted cinnamon, and one of powdered ginger; but allspice may be 
used, or any other spice that may be preferred. The peel of a lomon 
grated in gives it a pleasant flavour. The more eggs, says our Ame- 
rican authority, the better the pie. Some put one egg to a gill of milk. 
Bake about an hour in deep plates, or shallow dishes, without an upper 
crust, in a warm oven. 



CHAP. XXIX.] INDIAN CORN, PUMPKINS, &C. 393 

There is another method of making- this pie, which we know from 
experience, produces an excellent dish : Take out the seeds, and grate 
the pumpkin till you come to the outside skin. Sweeten the pulp: 
add a little ground allspice, lemon-peel, and lemon-juice ; in short, 
flavour it to your taste. Bake without an upper crust. 

CARROT PIES. 

These pies are made like pumpkin pies. The carrots should he 
boiled very tender, skinned, and sifted. 

AMERICAN CUSTARD PUDDINGS, 

Sufficiently good for common use, may be made by taking five ^ggs 
beaten up and mixed with a quart of milk, sweetened with sugar and 
spiced with cinnamon, allspice, or nutmeg. It is well to boil your milk 
first, and let it get cold before using it. "Boiling milk enriches it so 
much, that boiled skim milk is about as good as new." (We doubt this 
assertion; at any rate, it can only be improved by the evaporation of 
the water.) Bake fifteen or twenty minutes. 

AMERICAN PLUM PUDDING. 

Pound six hard fine biscuits (crackers), soak them for some hours in 
milk sufficient to cover the mass; add three pints of milk, beat up six 
eggs, and mix ; flavour with lemon-brandy, and a whole nutmeg grated ; 
add three-quarters of a pound of stoned raisins, rubbed in flour. Bake 
not quite two hours. 

AMERICAN APPLE PUDDINGS. 

Take your apples, and bore out the core without cutting them in 
two. Fill up the holes with washed rice. Tie up each apple very 
tight, and separately in the corners of a pudding-bag. Boil an hour, or 
an hour and a half, 

BIRD'S NEST PUDDING. 

If you wish to make what is called a bird's nest pudding, prepare 
your custard ; take eight or ten pleasant apples, prepare them and take 
out the core, but leave them whole; set them in a pudding-dish, pour 
your custard over them, and bake about thirty minutes. 

HASTY PUDDING. 

Boil water, a quart, three pints, or two quarts, according to the size 
of your family ; sift your meal, stir five or six spoonsful of it thoroughly 
into a bowl of water; when the water in the kettle boils, pour into it 
the contents of the bowl ; stir it well, and let it boil up thick; put in 
salt to suit your own taste, then stand over the kettle, and sprinkle in 
meal, handful after handful, stirring it very thoroughly all the time, and 
letting it boil between whiles. When it is so thick that you stir it 
with great difficulty, it is about right. It takes half an hour's cooking. 
Eat it with milk or molasses. Either Indian meal or rye meal may be 
used. If the system is in a restricted state, nothing can be better than 
rye hasty pudding and West India molasses. This diet would save 
many a one the horrors of dyspepsia. 

DRY BREAD. 

As far as possible, have bits of bread eaten up before they become 
hard. Spread those that are not eaten, and let them dry, to 6e pounded 



394 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XXIX 

Tor puddings, or soaked for brewis. Brewis is made of crusts and dry 
pieces of bread, soaked a good while in hot milk, mashed up and salted, 
and buttered like toast. 

ANOTHER SORT OF BREWIS. 

The author of Domestic Cookery observes, that a very good meal 
raay be bestowed on poor people in a thing called brewis, which is thus 
made : Cut a very thick upper crust of bread, and put it into the pot 
where salt beef is boiling, and nearly ready ; it will attach some of the 
fat, and when swelled out, will be no unpalatable dish to those who 
rarely taste meat. 

TO PRESERVE CHEESE. 

Cover the cheese carefully with paper, fastened on with paste, so as 
totally to exclude the air. In this way cheese may be kept for years. 

AMERICAN MINCE MEAT. 

Take the good bits of vegetables, and the cold meat left after din- 
ner. Mash your vegetables fine, and chop your meat very fine. Warm 
it with what remains of gravy, or roast-meat dripping. Two or three 
apples, sliced and fried to mix with it, are considered an improvement. 
Some like a little sifted "sage sprinkled in it. After it is warmed, lay 
it upon a large slice of toasted bread. Potatoes should not be used in 
the preparation of American mince meat. 

AMERICAN SOUSE. 

Take pigs' feet, ears, &c. well cleaned, and boil or rather simmer 
them for four or five hours, until they are too tender to be taken out 
with a fork. When taken from the boiling water, it should be put into 
cold water. After it is packed down tight, boil the jelly-like liquor in 
which it was cooked with an equal quantity of vinegar; salt as you 
think fit, and add cloves, allspice, and cinnamon. 

PORK AND BEANS 

Is an economical dish ; but it does not agree with weak stomachs. Put 
a quart of beans into two quarts of cold water, and hang them all night 
over the fire, to swell. In the morning pour off the water, rinse them 
well with two or three waters poured over them in a colander. Take 
a pound of pork, that is not very fat, score the rind, then again place 
the beans just covered with water in the kettle and keep them hot 
over the fire for an hour or two ; then drain off the water, sprinkle a 
little pepper and a teaspoonful of salt over the beans; place them in a 
well-glazed earthen pot, not very wide at the top, put the pork down in 
the beans, till the rind only appears; fill the pot with water till it just 
reaches the top of the beans, put it in a brisk oven and bake three or 
four hours. 

Stewed beans and pork are prepared in the same way, only they are 
kept over the fire, and the pork in them three or four hours instead of 
oeing in the oven. The beans will not be white or pleasant to the taste 
unless they are well soaked and washed — nor are they healthy without 
this process. 



CHAP, XXX.] DIRECTIONS FOR CARVING. 395 

CHAPTER XXX. 
DIRECTIONS FOR CARVING. 

GARNISHING, AND SETTING OUT A TABLE. 

In preparing meat for the table, and in laying out the table, refer- 
ence ought to be had to the carving department — a very onerous one 
to all, and to many a very disagreeable one. The carving-knife of 
course ought to be sharp, and if to be used by a lady, in particular, light 
and handy ; dexterity and address in the manner of using it being more 
required than strength, either in the knife or the carver. When a 
lady presides, a seat sufficiently high for her to have a complete com- 
mand over the joints should be provided, and the dish should be suffi- 
ciently deep and capacious, so as not to endanger the splashing of the 
gravy. It should also be placed as near to the carver as possible, leav- 
ing room for his or her plate. A knife with a long blade is required for 
a large fleshy joint; for ham or bacon a middling sized, sharp-pointed 
one is preferable, and for poultry or game a short knife and sharp- 
pointed is best. Some like this knife a little curved. We do not pre- 
sume to give any directions as respects the serving of the guests ; no 
one it is presumed would take the head of the table not acquainted with 
the common rules of politeness, which principally consist in endeavour- 
ing to please everybody. 

FISH. 

As fish is the first thing to be carved, or served, we shall first speak 
of it. In helping fish, take care not to break the flakes, which in cod 
and fine fresh salmon, and some other sorts, are large. A fish trowel 
is necessary, not to say indispensable, in serving many kinds offish, par- 
ticularly the larger sort. 

TURBOT, &C. 

The trowel is to be carried flatways from the middle of the fish, and 
the carver should bring out as much meat as will lie upon it. The 
thick part is the best, and of course most esteemed. When one side is 
cleared, the bones ought to be taken away — which done, serve the 
under part. The meat on the fins is considered by some a great 
delicacy. Halibuts, plaice, and other large fish, are served in a simi- 
lar way. 

A COD'S HEAD AND SHOULDERS. 

These, perhaps, require more attention in serving than any other. It 
is, too, considered a handsome dish. In carving, introduce the trowel 
along the back, and take off a piece quite down to the bone, taking care 
not to break the flakes. Put in a spoon and take out the sound, a jelly- 
like substance, which lies inside the back-bone. A part of this should 
be served with every slice of fish. The bones and glutinous parts of a 
cod's head are much liked by most people, and are very nourishing. 

SALMON. 

Cut slices along the back-bone, and also along the flank. The flank 
or thin part is the best and richest, and is preferred by all accomplisned 
gourmui?ds. The back is the most solid and thick. The tail of salmon 



396 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XXX 

is not so fine as the other parts. .The head is seldom used. The liver, 
melt, and roe, are generally served, but seldom eaten. 

SOLES. 

These are easily carved. You have only to cut through the middle 
part of the fish, bone and all, and subdivide and serve according to the 
size of fish. The thick parts are best ; the roes when well done are 
very nice. 

MACKEREL. 

The trowel should be carried under the meat, horizontally over the 
back-bone, so as to raise one side of the meat from the bone. Remove 
the bone, and serve the other side of the fish. When fresh, well cleaned, 
and well done, the upper end is considered the best. The roes are 
much liked. 

EELS, WHITING JACK, &C. 

These when intended to be fried, are previously cut in pieces of a 
suitable size for serving. When they are boiled, cut through them in 
the same way as soles. Large jacks will admit of slices being taken 
off with a trowel without the bones. Small fish are served whole. 

AITCH BONE OF BEEF. 

Cut a slice an inch thick all through. Put this by, and serve in 
slices from the remainder. Some persons, however, like outside, and 
others take off a thinner slice before serving, for the sake of economy. 
The rich, delicious, soft fat, which resembles marrow, lies at the back 
of the bone : the firm fat is cut in horizontal slices at the edge of the 
meat. Some prefer one and some the qther. The skewer used to keep 
the meat together when boiling, should be taken out before coming to 
the table, and, if necessary, be replaced by a silver one. 

A ROUND, OR BUTTOCK, AND THICK FLANK OF BEEF. 

These are carved in horizontal slices, that is, in slices from the top. 
Pare and neatly cut all round. Some prefer the silver side. 

A BRISKET OF BEEF. 

This is cut lengthways, right down to the bone. The soft mellow 
fat is found underneath. The upper part is firm, but gristly ; if well 
done, they are equally good to our taste. 

SIRLOIN OF BEEF, 

The glory of the dinner-table, may be commenced carving, either 
by beginning at the end, and cutting slices along the bones, or across 
the middle ; but this latter mode will drain the gravy from the remain- 
der. The inside is very juicy and tender, but the outside is frequently 
preferred. The inside fat is rich and marrowy, and is considered too 
much so by many. The inside of a sirloin is frequently dressed (in 
various ways) separately. 

FILLET OF VEAL 

Is the corresponding part to the round in an ox, and is cut in the 
same way. If the outside brown be not desired, serve the next slice. 
Cut deep into the stuffing, and help a thin slice, as likewise of fat. 
A fillet of veal should be cut very smooth and thin. 



CHAP. XXX.] DIRECTIONS FOR CARVING. 39? 

BREAST OF VEAL 

Answers to the brisket of an ox. It should be cracked lengthways, 
across the middle of the bones, to divide the thick gristly part from the 
ribs. There is a great difference in these parts ; and as some prefer 
the one, and some the other, the best way is to ask to which the prefer- 
ence is to be given. The burr, or sweetmeat, is much liked, and a part 
should be served with each slice. 

NECKS AND LOINS 

Of all sorts of meat, if properly jointed by the butcher, require 
only to be cut through ; but when the joints are too thick for one, cut 
a slice between each, that is, cut one slice without bone, and another 
with. Some prefer one, and some the other. 

calf's head 
Affords a great variety of excellent meat, differing in texture and 
flavour, and therefore requires a judicious and skilful carver properly 
to divide it. Cut slices longways under the eye, taking care that 
the knife goes close to the bone. The throat sweetbread or kernel, 
lies in the fleshy part, at the neck end, which you should help a slice 
of with the other part. The eyes are considered great delicacies by 
some. They should be taken out with the point of your knife, and each 
cut into two. A piece of the palate (which lies under the head), a slice 
of the tongue, with a portion of the brains, should be given to each 
guest. On drawing out the jaw-bone, some delicious lean will be 
found. The heads of oxen, sheep, lambs, &c, are cut in the same way 
as those of calves. 

A LEG OF MUTTON, &C. 

Begin to cut in the midway, between the knuckle and farther 
end. The slices should be thin and deep. If the outside is not 
fat enough, cut some from the fat on the broad end, in slices. Many 
prefer the knuckle, or venison bit, to the middle part; the latter is 
the most juicy, the former, in good, well-done mutton, is gelatinous, 
and delicately tender. There is some good meat on the back of 
the leg, or aitch bone ; this should be cut lengthways. It is, however, 
seldom carved when hot. To cut out the cramp bone, take hold of the 
shank in your left hand, and steadily cut down to the thigh bone; then 
pass the knife under the cramp bone. Legs of lamb and pork are cut 
in the same way. 

A SADDLE OR COLLAR OF MUTTON, 

Sometimes called the chine, should be cut lengthways, in long slices, 
beginning close to the backbone, and thus leaving the ribs bare. The 
fat is taken from the outer ends. The inside of the loin is very tender, 
and in the opinion of some gourmands, is preferred to the upper part. 
It is best, perhaps, to cut the inside lengthways. 

SHOULDER OF MUTTON. 

To carve this joint (which when properly dressed is very fine eating) 
economically for a Very small family, the best way is to cut away the 
underneath part when hot, and if any more is required, to take it from 
the knuckle. This plan leaves all the gravy in the upper part, which 
is very nice when cold. The usual way, however, of carving a shoulder 



398 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XXX. 

of mutton, is to cut slices deep to the bone, in the hollow part. The 
prime part of the fat lies on the outer edge, and is to be cut in thin 
slices. Some good delicate slices of lean may be taken from each siue 
of the ridge of the blade-bone. No slices can be cut across the edge of 
the blade-bone. 

HAUNCH OF VENISON OR MUTTON. 

Cut down to the bone in circular slices at the narrow end, to let out 
the gravy. You may then turn the broad end of the haunch towards 
you ; insert the knife in the middle of the cut, and cut thin deep slices 
lengthways to the broad end of the haunch. The fat of venison is much 
esteemed ; those who help should take care properly to apportion both 
the fat and gravy. 

FORE-QUARTER OF LAMB. 

Separate the shoulder from the scovel, or breast and ribs, by passing 
the knife under it (the shoulder). The shoulder of grass lamb, which 
is generally pretty large, should have a little lemon or Seville orange- 
juice squeezed over it, and be sprinkled with a little pepper and salt, 
and then placed upon another dish. If the lamb be small, it is usual to 
replace the shoulder. The breast, and ribs should be cracked across by 
the butcher, and be divided. Help either from that, the ribs, or 
shoulder, according to choice. 

HAM. 

The most economical way of cutting a ham, which is seldom or never 
eaten at one meal, is to begin to cutTat the knuckle end, and proceed 
onwards. The usual way, however, is to begin at the middle, and cut 
in long slices through the thick fat. By this means you come at once 
to the 'prime, but you let out the gravy. Another plan is to cut a small 
hole on the top of the ham, and with a very sharp knife enlarge the 
hole, by cutting thin circular slices. In this latter way you preserve 
the gravy, and of course keep the meat moist to be eaten when cold. 

TONGUE. 

This much-esteemed relish, which often supplies the place of ham, 
should be cut in thin slices across, beginning at the thick middle part. 
Serve slices of fat and kernel from the root. 

A SUCKING PIG 

Is generally slit down the middle in the kitchen, and the cook 
garnishes the dish with the jaws and ears. Separate a shoulder from 
the carcase on one side, and then do the same thing with the leg. 
Divide the ribs, which are frequently considered the most choice part, 
into two or three helpings, presenting an ear or jaw with them as far as 
they will go, and plenty of sauce. Some persons prefer the leg, because 
not so rich and luscious as the ribs. The neck end between the 
shoulders is also sometimes preferred. The joints may be divided into 
two each, or pieces may be cut from them. 

A FOWL. 

The le^s of a boiled fowl are always bent inwards, and tucked 
into the belly, but before it is put upon the table, the skewers by 
which they are secured ought to be removed. The fowl should be 
laid on the" carver's plate, and the joints as they are cut off placed on 



CHAI\ XXX.] DIRECTIONS FOR CARVING. 399 

the dish. In taking off the wing-, the joint only must be divided with 
the knife, for, by lifting- up the pinion of the wing with the fork, and 
then drawing- it towards the legs, the muscles will separate in a much 
better form than you can effect by cutting with a knife. Next place 
the knife between the leg and body, and cut to the bone; turn the leg 
back with the fork, and the joint will give way, if the fowl' be young 
and well done. The merrythought is taken out when the legs and 
wings are all removed ; the neck bones are taken off by putting in the 
knife, and pressing it under the long broad part of the bone, then lift 
the neck-bone up and break it off from the part that sticks to the breast. 
The breast itself has now to be divided from the carcase, by cutting 
through the tender ribs close to the breast, quite down to the tail ; then 
lay the back upwards, put your knife into the bone half-way from the 
neck to the rump, and on raising the lower end it will readily separate. 
The last thing to be done is to turn the rump from you, and neatly to 
take off the two sidesmen. Each part should be neatly arranged on the 
dish, but it is almost impossible to give effectual written descriptions 
for carving fowls ; the best plan is to observe carefully a good carver, 
and then, by a little practice, you will become perfect. The breast and 
the wings are considered the best parts. 

A PHEASANT. 

Take out the skewers ; fix your fork in the centre of the breast, slice 
it down ; remove the leg by cutting in the sideway direction, then take 
off the wing, taking care to miss the neck-bone. When the legs and 
wings are all taken off, cut off slices of the breast. The merrythought 
is separated by passing the knife under it towards the neck; *he other 
parts are cut as before directed in a fowl. The breast, wmgs, and 
merrythought, are the favourites, particularly the former, but the leg 
hafc a higher flavour. 

PARTRIDGES AND PIGEONS. 

Partridges are carved like fowls, but the breast and wings are not 
often divided, the bird being small. The wing is the prime bit, par- 
ticularly the tip; the other choice parts are the breast and merry- 
thought. Pigeons may be cut in two, either from one end to the other 
of the bird, or across. 

GOOSE OR DUCK. 

Cut off the apron of the goose and pour into the body a large spoon- 
ful of gravy, which should be mixed with the stuffing. Some persons 
put, instead of the gravy, a glass of port-wine, in which a large tea- 
spoonful of mustard has been previously stirred. Cut as many slices 
from the breast as possible, and serve with a portion of the apron to 
each plate. When the breast is all served, and not till then, cut off 
the joints : but observe, the joints of water-fowl are wider spread and 
go farther back than those of land-fowl. 

A TURKEY 

Should not be divided till the breast is disposed of; but if it be 
thought proper ttf divide, the same process must be followed as directed 
in a fowl. The following is the best mode of serving this delicious 
bird : Begin cutting close to the breast-bone, scooping round so as to 
leave the mere pinions. Each slice should carry with it a portion of 
the pudding, or force meat, with which tiie craw is stuffed. 



400 MODERN COOKERY. [CHAP. XXX 

HARE. 

Put the point of the knife under the shoulder, and cut all the way 
down to the rump, on the side of the back-bone. By doing the same 
on the other side, the hare will be divided into three parts. The back 
should be cut into four parts : the shoulder must be taken off in a cir- 
cular line. The pieces as they are cut should be neatly placed on the 
dish ; in helping-, some pudding and gravy should be given to each 
person. The above mode of carving is only applicable to a young 
hare ; when the hare is old, it is not practicable to divide it down, but 
put the knife between the leg and back, and give it a little turn in- 
wards at the joints, which you must endeavour to hit, and then cut, 
and with the fork turn it completely back. When both legs are taken 
off, you will find a fine collop on each side of the back, which back you 
may divide into as many pieces as are necessary. Take off the shoul- 
ders, which some persons are very fond of, and which are called the 
sportsman's pieces ; but the legs and back are considered the prime. 
When all the guests are served, it is usual to take off the head, and by 
putting the knife between the upper and lower jaw, you may divide 
them; then lay the upper flat upon your plate, put the point of the 
knife into the centre, and cut the head into two ; you will thus get at 
the brains, which may be served with the ears and tail to those who 
like them. Some persons direct the carver to serve with slices, as 
much as possible, off the sides of the back-bone, from the shoulder to 
the rump. 

RABBITS 

Are generally cut up in the same way as hares. The back and legs 
are considered the best parts. The back should be cut into two pieces. 



GARNISHES. 



Parsley is the most universal garnish to all kinds of cold meat, 
poultry, fish, butter, cheese, and so forth. Horse-radish is the garnish 
for roast beef, and for fish in general ; for the latter, slices of lemon are 
sometimes laid alternately with heaps of horse-radish. 

Slices of lemon for boiled fowl, turkey, and fish, and for roast veal 
and calf's head. 

Carrot in slices for boiled beef, hot or cold. 

Barberries fresh or preseryed for game. 

Red beet-root sliced for cold meat, boiled beef, and salt fish. 

Fried smelts as garnish for turbot. 

Fried sausages or force meat-balls round roast turkey, capon, or fowl. 

Lobster coral and parsley round boiled fish. 

Fennel for mackerel and salmon, either fresh or pickled. 

Currant jelly for game, also for custard or bread pudding. 

Seville orange in slices for wild ducks, widgeons, teal and so forth. 

Mint, either w T ith or without parsley, for roast lamb, either hot or cold. 

Pickled gherkins, capers, or onions, for some kinds of boiled meat 
and stews. 



CHAP. XXX.] SETTING OUT A TABLE. 401 

SETTING OUT A TABLE. 

A prudent housekeeper, in providing for a family, or for company, 
will endeavonr to secure variety, and avoid extravagance, taking care 
not to have two dishes alike, or nearly alike, such as ducks and pork, 
veal and fowls; and avoiding, when several sorts are required, to have 
such things as cannot be eaten cold, or cannot be warmed or re-cooked. 
There is a great waste occasioned if these principles are overlooked in 
providing for a party. When a table is to be set out, it is usual to 
place nearly the whole provisions at once ; but if comfort is the object, 
it is better to have each dish and its accompanying sauces and vege- 
tables sent in separately, hot from the kitchen. 

For plain family dinners, soup or pudding is placed at the head of 
the table, and meat at the lower end ; vegetables on each side of the 
middle, and sauce boats in the middle. Boiled meat at the top ; roast 
meat at bottom ; soup in the middle ; then the vegetables and sauce 
boats at cross corners of the middle dish. Poultry or mutton at bottom ; 
boiled poultry at top; roast poultry, or game, at bottom ; vegetables and 
sauces so disposed as to give the appearance of the whole table being 
covered without being crowded. 

When there are several courses, the first consists of soups, stews, 
boiled fish, fricassees ; poultry with ham, bacon, tongue, or chine ; and 
roast or boiled meat. 

For second course, birds and game of all sorts, fish fried, pickled, or 
potted ; pigeon pies, patties, brawn, omelets, oysters stewed or scol- 
loped, and lobsters or crabs. Tarts, cheesecakes, and sweet dishes of 
all kinds, are sometimes placed with the second course, but more fre- 
quently form separate courses by themselves. 

The dessert is usually served in another room, which is a great ac- 
commodation both to the servants, who can prepare it at leisure, and to 
the guests in quitting the smell of a hot dinner. A d'oyley, a finger- 
glass, two wine-glasses, a China dessert plate, and silver knife and fork, 
and spoon, to each person. Every variety of fruit, fresh and preserved, 
is admissible ; and biscuits, and pound-cake, with an epergne or stand 
of jellies in the middle. Varieties of wine are generally placed at 
each end. 

The modern practice of dining late has added importance to the 
luncheon, and almost annihilated the supper meal. The following are 
suitable for either : soups, sandwiches of ham, tongue, dried sausage, or 
beef; anchovy, toast or husks ; potted beef, lobster, or cheese ; dried 
salmon, lobsters, crayfish, or oysters, poached eggs ; patties ; pigeon- 
pies ; sausages ; toast with marrow (served on a water-plate), cheese- 
cakes ; puffs, mashed or scolloped potatoes, brocoli ; asparagus, sea- 
kale with toast, creams, jellies, preserved or dried fruits, salad, radishes, 
&c. If a more substantial supper is required, it may consist of fish, 
poultry, game ; slices of cold meat, pies of chickens, pigeons, or game ; 
lamb or mutton chops, cold poultry, broiled with high seasoning, or 
fricasseed ; rations or toasted cheese. 
25 



APPENDIX 



RELATIVE DUTIES OF MISTRESS AND MAID. 

Cooking is neither a mean, nor a simple art. To make the best and 
the most of everything connected with the sustenance of a family, re- 
quires not only industry and experience, but also considerable mental 
capacity, or at any rate, an aptness to learn. 

One of the principal, if not the principal, requisite in a cook, is order 
— that faculty by which a person is enabled to keep all things in their 
proper places. Without order there can be no cleanliness, another 
indispensable requisite in a cook : to be always cleaning, is not to be 
clean. There are some foolish, fussy women, who, with all the disposi- 
tion on earth to be clean, not having order, dirty one thing as fast as 
they clean another. Nor is order an essential requisite, as regards the 
cleanliness of a kitchen, and of kitchen utensils only ; in dressing food, 
without order there can be no good cooking. 

We have said, that the mistress will take a part in a small family in 
the business of cooking. We, perhaps, should have rather said, ought 
to take a part ; for we are sorry to say, that there is too much reason to 
believe, that good housewifery is much neglected in the educating of 
young ladies now-a-days. If a mistress be really not acquainted with 
the general principles of cooking, she ought to do one of two things — 
either to make herself acquainted with them as an humble learner, or 
to keep out of the kitchen altogether; for her ignorant interference 
with a good cook-maid will do no good, but may do a great deal of harm. 
And while on this subject we must give a word of friendly advice to the 
unfortunate cook, who may happen to fall in with an ignorant, irritable 
mistress. Let her take care to refrain from going into a passion with 
her : if the mistress scolds, let the maid be mild; and above all, let her 
not scold again, or answer in an angry or insulting manner. This is a 
hard thing to do, we are aware, particularly where a servant feels her- 
self injured; but if she can do it, she will not only gain the victory 
over her mistress, but she will also feel a consciousness, a happy con- 
sciousness, of having left undone those things which she ought not to 
have done, and of having done those things which she ought to have 
done. But if the tempers and habits of the mistress and maid are 

(402) 



APPENDIX. 403 

incompatible to that good understanding which ought always to subsist 
between the employer and the employed, the best course for the servant 
to do is, to give notice and leave. Let not this, however, be done in 
anger : before giving warning, let her consult her pillow. 

It has been well observed, that it behoves every person to be extremely 
careful whom she takes into her service; to be very minute in investi- 
gating the character she receives, and equally cautious and scrupulously 
just in giving one to others. Were this attended to, many bad people 
would be incapacitated for doing mischief, by abusing the trust reposed 
in them. It may be fairly asserted, that the robbery, or waste, which 
is but a milder epithet for the unfaithfulness of a servant, will be laid 
to the charge of that master or mistress, who knowing, or having well- 
founded suspicions, of such faults, is prevailed upon by false pity, or 
entreaty, to slide him, or her, into another place. There are, however, 
some who are unfortunately capricious, and often refuse to give a cha- 
racter, because they are displeased that a servant leaves their service ; 
but this is unpardonable, and an absolute robbery ; servants having no 
inheritance, and depending on their fair name for employment. To 
refuse countenance to the evil, and to encourage the good servant, are 
actions due to society at large ; and such as are honest, frugal and 
attentive to their duties, should be liberally rewarded, which would 
encourage merit, and inspire servants with zeal to acquit themselves 
well. 

Servants should always recollect that everything is provided for them, 
without care and anxiety on their part. They run no risks, are subject 
to no losses, and under these circumstances, honesty, industry, civility, 
and perseverance, are in the end sure to meet with their reward. 
Servants possessing these qualifications, by the blessing of God, must 
succeed. Servants should be kind and obliging to their fellow-servants; 
but if they are honest themselves, they will not connive at dishonesty 
in others. They who see crimes committed and do not discover them, 
are themselves legally and morally guilty. At the same time, however, 
well recollect, that tittle-tattling and tale-bearing, for the sake of get- 
ting in your mistress's good graces, at the expense of your fellow- 
servants, is, to the last degree, detestable. A sensible mistress will 
always discourage such practices. 

We have known servants imagine, that because their employers are 
kind to them, that because they do not command them to do this or that, 
but rather solicit them, that, therefore, they cannot do without them, 
and instead of repaying their good-nature and humanity by gratitude 
and extra attention, give themselves airs, and become idle and neglect- 
ful. Such conduct cannot be too much condemned, and those servants 
who practise it may depend upon it, that, sooner or later, they will 
have cause to repent. Let it be remembered, that vice as well as virtue 
has its reward, though of a very different character. 

We shall couclude this our friendly advice to young cooks, by an 
extract from the " Cook's Best Friend" by the late Dr. Kitchener. 
Nothing can be done in perfection, which must be done in a hurry, 
(except catching of fleas), — " Therefore," says the Doctor, " if you wish 
the dinner to be sent up to please your master and mistress, and do 
credit to yourself, be punctual; take care, that as soon as the clock 
strikes, the dinner-bell rings. This shows the establishment is orderly 



404 APPENDIX. 

is extremely gratifying to the master and his guests, and is most praise- 
worthy in the attendants. Bat remember you cannot obtain this desir- 
able reputation without good management in every respect; if you 
wish to ensure ease and independence in the latter part of your life, 
you must not be unwilling to pay the price for which only they can be 
obtained, and earn them by a diligent and faithful performance of the 
duties of your station in your young days, in which if you steadily per- 
severe, you may depend upon ultimately receiving the reward your 
services deserve." 

All duties are reciprocal ; and if you hope to receive favour, endea- 
vour to deserve it by showing yourself fond of obliging, and grateful 
when obliged. Such behaviour will win regard, and maintain it ; en- 
force what is right, and excuse what is wrong. 

Quiet, steady perseverance, is the only spring which you can safely 
depend upon infallibly to promote your progress on the road to inde- 
pendence. 

If your employers do not immediately appear to be sensible of your 
endeavours to contribute your utmost to their comfort and interests, be 
not easily discouraged ; persevere, and do all in your power to make 

YOURSELF USEFUL. 

Endeavour to promote the comfort of every individual in the family ; 
let it be manifest that you are desirous to do rather more than is required 
of you, than less than your duty ; they merit little who perform nothing 
more than what would be exacted. If you are desired to help in any 
business that may not strictly belong to your department, undertake it 
cheerfully, patiently and conscientiously. 

The foregoing advice has been written with an honest desire to aug- 
ment the comfort of those in the kitchen, who will soon find, that the 
ever-cheering reflection of having done their duty to the utmost of their 
ability, is in itself, with a Christian spirit, a never-failing source of 
comfort in all circumstances and situations, and that 
" Virtue is its own reward." 



WHAT MUST ALWAYS BE DONE, AND WHAT MUST 
NEVER BE DONE. 

1. Keep yourself clean and tidy ; let your hands, in particular, be 
always clean whenever it is practicable. After a dirty job, always 
wash them. A cleanly cook must wash her hands many times in the 
course of the day, and will require three or four aprons appropriated to 
the work upon which she is employed. Your hair must never be 
blowsy, nor your cap dirty. 

2. Keep apart things that would injure each other, or destroy their 
flavour. 

3. Keep every cloth, saucepan and all other utensils to their proper 
use, and when done with, put them in their proper places. 

4. Keep every copper stewpan and saucepan bright without, and 
perfectly clean within, and take care that they are always well 
tinned. Keep all your dish-covers well dried, and polished; and to 



APPENDIX. 405 

effect this, it will be necessary to wash them in scalding water as 
soon as removed from the table, and when these things are done let 
them be hung up in their proper places. 

5. The gridiron, frying-pan, spit, dripping-pan, &c, must be per- 
fectly cleaned of grease and dried before they are put in their proper 
places. 

6. Attention should be paid to things that do not meet the sight in 
the way that tins and copper vessels do. Let, for instance, the pud- 
ding-cloth, the dish-cloth, and the dish-tub, be always kept perfectly 
clean. To these may be added, the sieve, the cullender, the jelly-bag, 
&c, which ought always to be washed as soon after they are used as 
may be practicable. 

7. Scour your rolling-pin and paste-board as soon after using as pos- 
sible, but without soap, or any gritty substance, such as sand or brick- 
dust ; put them away perfectly dry. 

8. Scour your pickle and preserve-jars after they are emptied ; dry 
them and put them away in a dry place. 

9. Wipe your bread and cheese-pan out daily with a dry cloth, and 
scald them once a week. Scald your salt-pan when out of use, and 
dry it thoroughly. Scour the lid well by which it is covered when in 
use. 

10. Mind and put all things in their proper places, and then you will 
easily find them when they are wanted. 

11. You must not poke things out of sight instead of cleaning them, 
and such things as onions, garlic, &.c, must not be cut with the same 
knife as is used in cutting meat, bread, butter, &c. Milk must not be 
put in a vessel used for greasy purposes, nor must clear liquids, such as 
water, &c., be put into vessels, which have been used for milk, and not 
washed ; in short, no vessel must be used for any purpose for which it 
is not appropriated. 

12. You must not suffer any kind of food to become cold in any metal 
vessel, not even in well-tinned iron saucepans, &c., for they will im- 
part a more or less unpleasant flavour to it. Above all things you must 
not let liquid food, or indeed any other, remain in brass or copper ves- 
sels after it is cooked. The rust of copper or brass is absolutely poi- 
sonous, and this will be always produced by moisture and exposure to 
the air, The deaths of many persons have been occasioned by the 
cook not attending to this rule. 

13. You must not throw away the fat which, when cold, accumulates 
on the top of liquors in which fresh or salt meat has been boiled; in 
short, you ought not to waste fat of any description, or any thing else, 
that may be turned to account; such as marrow-bones, or any other 
clean bones from which food may be extracted in the way of soup, 
broth, or stock, or in any other way : for if such food will not suit your 
table, it will suit the table of the poor. Remember, " Wilful waste 
makes woful want." 

14. A very essential requisite in a cook is punctuality : therefore rise 
early; and get your orders from your mistress as early as possible, 
and make your arrangements accordingly. What can be prepared be- 
fore the business of roasting and boiling commences should always be 
prepared. 

15. Do not do your dirty work at a dresser set apart for cleanly pre 



406 APPENDIX. 

parations. Take care to have plenty of kitchen cloths, and mark them 
so as a duster may not be mistaken for a pudding-cloth, or a knife-cloth 
for a towel. 

16. Keep your spit, if you use one, always free from rust and dust, 
and your vertical jack clean. Never draw up your jack with a weight 
upon it. 

17. Never employ, even if permitted to do so, any knives, spoons, 
dishes, cups, or any other articles in the kitchen, which are used in the 
dining room. Spoons are sure to get scratched, and a knife used for 
preparing an onion, takes up its flavour, which two or three cleanings 
will not entirely take away. 

18. Take great care to prevent all preparations which are delicate 
in their nature, such as custards, blancmange, dressed milks, &c, &c, 
from burning, to which they are very liable. The surest way to effec- 
tually hinder this is to boil them as the carpenter heats his glue, that 
is, by having an outside vessel filled with water. 

19. You ought not to do any thing by halves. What you do, do 
well. If you clean, clean thoroughly, having nothing to do with the 
" slut's wipe," and the " lick and a promise." 

20. And last, though not least, be teachable : be always desirous to 
learn — never be ashamed to ask for information, lest you should appear 
to be ignorant ; for be assured, the most ignorant are too frequently the 
most self-opinionated and most conceited ; while those who are really 
well informed, think humbly of themselves, and regret that they know 
so little. 



INDEX. 



Alderman's pudding, 285 
Almond, cake, 361 

biscuits, bitter, 360 

cream, for blamange, 320 

macaroons, 359 

paste, 263 

paste, sandwiches of, 268 

paste, tartlets of, 264 

pudding, 284 

rocher, 360 
Almonds to blanch, 358 

in cheesecakes, 267 

to pound, 358 

to reduce to paste, the quickest and easiest 
way, 358 
American mode of cooking Indian corn, pump- I 

kins, &c. 391 
American plum pudding, 393 

custard, 393 

apple, 393 

mincemeat, 394 
Anchovies, fried in batter, 83 
Apple cake, 262 

calf 's-feet jelly, 309 

Charlotte, or Charlotte de Pommes, 325 

marmalade for, 326 

custards, 323 

dumplings, fashionable, 281 

fritters, 299 

hedgehog, or Suedoise, 321 
Jelly, 345 

jelly, exceedingly fine, 346 
juice, prepared, 305 

pudding, 274 

pudding, small common, 274 

sauce, boiled, 108 

baked, 109 

sauce, brown, 109 

soup, 48 

snowballs, 282 

tart, 263 

creamed tart, 263 

compote of, 373 
Apples, baked compote of, (our little ady'a re- 
ceipt), 373 

buttered, or Pommes au beurre, 326 
Apricots, compote of green, 307 

to dry, a quick and easy method, 342 
Apricot blamange, 320 

fritters, 299 
Artichokes, to boil, 240 

to remove the chokes from, 240 
Jerusalem, 246 
to fry, 247 

excellent sauce of, 110 
Asparagus, to boil. 234 
to serve cold, 234 
points, dressed like peas, 234 
Aspic, or clear savoury jelly, 91 
Aroce Doce, or sweet rice a la Portugaise. 328 
Arrow-root, to thicken sauces with, 84 
to thicken soup with, 39 

Bacon, to boil, 195 

broiled or fried, 195 

Cobbet.'s receipt for, 190 

dressed rashers of, 196 

French, for larding. 192 

lardoons of. 139 

to pickle cheeks of, 192 

genuine Yorkshire receipt for curing, 141 
Bain-marie, use of, 92 



Baked apple-pudding, or custard. 291 

apple-pudding, a common, 291 

compote of apples, 373 

minced beef, 159 

round of spiced beef, 153 

beet-root, 247, 248 

brend-puddings, 279 

calf's feet, and head, 137 

custard, 324, 325 

haddocks, 74 

ham, 195 

hasty pudding, 295 

joints, with potatoes, 137 

mackerel, 72 

marrow bones, 159 

mullet, 75 

pike, 77 

potatoes, 230 

salmon, 64, 137 

soles, halibut and carp, 70 

soup, 137 

sucking-pig, 188 

whitings, a la Francaise, 71 

shad, 76 
Baking, directions for, 137 
Banbury cakes, 365 
Barberries in bunches, to pickle, 356 
to preserve, 348 
stewed, for dessert, 308 
Barberry jam, a good receipt for, 349 
jam, second receipt for. 349 
jam, very common, 349 
jelly, 349 

superior jelly and marmalade, 350 
and rice pudding, 293 
tart, 263 
Barley-sugar, 369 

water, poor Xury's receipt, 378 
Batter, French, for frying meat and vegetables, 
&c, 113 
cods sounds fried in, 68 
Batter, spring fruit, fried in, 299 

to mix for puddings, 271 
Bechamel, 93 

common, 94 
Beans, French, to boil, 236 
and pork. 394 
a la Francaise, 236 
another excellent receipt for, 236 
Windsor, to boil, 237 
Beef, a la mode, 148 
breslaw of, 158 
cake of, very good, 146 
to choose, 142 
minced collops of, 155 
savoury minced collops of, 156 
Scotch minced collops of, 156 
divisions of, 142 
Dutch or hung, 152 
fillet of, braised, 144 
fillet of, roast, 144 
hashed, French receipt for, 159 
cold, common hash of, 158 
cold, excellent hash of, 157 
collared, 153 
another recpipt for, 153 
Norman hash of, 158 
heart, to roast, 157 
kidney, to dress, 157 
round, buttock, &<\, to carve, 398 
brisket of, to carve, 39"J 
sirloin of, to carve, 396 

(4071 



408 



INDEX 



Beef, aitch bone of, 396 , 

marrow- bones, to boil, 159 

marrowbones, baked, 159 

palates, Entree, 150 

palates, Neapolitan mode, 151 

Hamburg pickle for, 152 
another, 152 

roll, or canellon de bcevf. Entree, 155 

round of, miniature, 155 

round of, to salt and boil, 151 

round of, spiced, 153 

round of, roast, 113 

rump of, to roast, 143 

rump of, to stew, 149 

common receipt for salting, 153 

shin of, to stew, 148 

shin of, for stock, 85 

sirloin of, to roast, 143 

sirloin of, stewed, 119 

spiced, good and wholesome, 154 

steak, roast, 144 

steak, stewed, 146 

steak, stewed in its own gravy, 146 

steaks, best and most tender, 142 

steaks, broiled, 144 

steaks, broiled, sauces appropriate to, 144 

steaks, tried, 146 

steaks, a la Francaise, 145 

steaks, a la Francaise, another receipt 
tor, 145 

steak, pie, 256 

steak puddings, 272 

good English stew of, 147 

German stew, 147 

Welsh stew of, 147 

tongue potted, 227 

tongues, various modes of curing, 156, 157 

tongues, to dress, 157 

tongues, Suffolk receipt for, 157 
Beet-root, to bake, 248 

to boil, 247 

to stew, 248 
Bengal currie, 222 

Bermuda witches, 328 
Birthday syllabub, 377 
Bird's nest pudding, 393 
Biscuits, almond, 360 

Aunt Charlotte's, 368 

Captain's, 388 

Colonel's, 368 

ginger, cheap, 365 

cocoa-nut, 366 
Bishop, Oxford receipt for, 376 
Black fish, to boil, 69 
Blamange, or blanc manger, apricot, 320 

author's receipt, 319 

calf's feet, to make, 304 

quince, delicious, 390 

quince, with almond cream, 320 

rich, 313 

rubane, or striped, 321 

strawberry, extremely good, 319 

strengthening, 328 
Blanc, a, 130 

Blanch, to, meat, vegetables, &c. 140 
Blanquette, of sucking pig, 189 

of veal or lamb with mushrooms, 173 
Boiled calf's head, 161 

chestnuts, 374 

custard, 322 

eels, German receipt, lb 

fowls, 206 

leeks, 234 

rice, to serve with stewed fruit, &.c. 282. 

rice-pudding, 280 

turnip-radishes, 233 

breast of veal, 166 

fillet of veal, 165 

knuckle of veal, 167 

loin of veal, 165 

winter squash, 240 

sturgeon, 70 

rock -fish, 69 

black-fish, 69 

sea- bass, 69 

halibut, 69 



Boiled onions, 249 

Boiling, general directions for, 129 

Bone to, calf 's head for brawn, 164 

calf's head, 162 

calf's head for mock turtle soup, 49 

a fowl or turkey without opening it, 200 

a fowl or turkey without opening it, an- 
other mode, 200 

fowls, for fricasses. curries, and pie*, 201 

a leg of mutton, 177 

a loin of mutton for pies, 257 

a shoulder of veal or mutton, 166 

Boning, general directions for, 140 
Bon-bons, palace, 371 
Bottled fruits, 329 

gooseberries, 345 

tomatas, or tomata-catsup, 117 
Bottles, to clean, in large numbers, 380 
Boulettes, 232 
Bouilli, 41 

French receipt for hashed, 159 
Bouillon, 41 
Brain cakes, 126 

calf's, added to soup, 50 
Braised fillet of beef, 144 
Braising, directions for, 138 
Brandy, lemon, for flavouring sweet dishes, 120 
Brawn, calf's head, Author's receipt, 164 

Tonbridge, 196 
Bread, to make, 384 

dyspepsia, 386 

rye and Indian, 387 

dry, 393 

Bordyke receipt for, 385 

brown, 386 

crumbs, fried, 114 

crumbs, to prepare for frying fish, 114 

to fry for garnishing, 114 

to fry for soups, 40 

partridges, served with, 208 

potato, 386 

puddings, 279, 286 

and butter pudding, 28G 

sauce, 97 

sauce with onion, 97 

to purify yeast for, 384 

Brewer's, 394 

another sort, 394 
Rrezolles, 169 
Broccoli, 240 
Brioche paste, 253 
Broth, beef, 41 

veal, or mutton, 59 
Broiled, beef-steak, 144 

bacon, 195 

cutlets, mutton, 181 

cutlets, pork, 190 

fowl, 206 

oysters, 83 

mackerel, 135 

salmon, 64 

whitings, 135 

shad, 76 
Broiling, general directions for, 135 
Browned, flour for thickening soups and 

sauces, 1 14 
Browning, with salamander, 141 
Brown, rich, English i:ravy, 87 

gravy, common, 89 

caper-sauce, 11)6 

mushroom sauce, 107 

onion-sauce, 109 

rabbit soup, 51 
Buckwheat cakes, 389 
Bullaces, jelly of, 343 

stewed or compote of, 307 
Bun, a good light, 361 
Burnt coffee, or glnria, 383 
Buttered apples, 326 
Butter, burnt, 95 

clarified, for storing and for immediate 
use, 95 

creamed, and otherwise prepared for 
cakes, 359 

lobster, 79 

melted, good common, 94 



INDEX. 



409 



Butter, melted, French, 95 
melted, rich, 114 
melted, rich, without flour, 95 
melted, and parsley, 105 
melted, white, 95 
loin of lamb, slewed in, 185 



Cabbage, to boil, 243 

stewed, 244 

red, to siew (Flemish receipt), 248 
Cafe voir, 3f2 
Cake, fine almond, 361 

apple, 262 

beef or mutton, 146 

Cornish, heavy, 367 

thick, light gingerbread, 364 

a good Madeira, 362 

pound, 361 

rice, 361 

sausage-meat, paine de pore frais, 197 

a good sponge, 362 

another sponge, good, and quickly made, 
362 

a smaller sponge, 362 

a good soda, 365 

veal, good, Bordyke receipt for, 168 

white, 362 
Cakes. Banbury, 363 

cinnamon, or lemon, 365 

flead, or fleed, 367 

cocoa-nut gingerbread, 364 

common gingerbread, 365 

meringues, 363 

richer gingerbread, 364 

queen, 366 

very good small rich, 360 

soda, 365 

batter, breakfast, 388 

tea, 388 

buckwheat, 389 

flannel, 389 

to prepare butter for rich, 359 

to whisk eggs for light rich, 359 
Calf's head, to carve. 397 

a laMattre a" Hotel, 163 

boiled, 161 

boned and rolled, 162 

brown, 164 

to clear the hair from, 160 

hashed, 162 

a cheap hash of, 162 

prepared, the cook's receipt, 162 

soup, 50 

The Warder's way, 161 
Calf's feet jelly. 309 

jelly, in barley-water, 378 

to prepare for stock, 304 

stewed, 172 

stock, 304 

to clarify, 304 
Calf's-footin bouillon, 41 
Calf 's-liver. fried, 172 

roast, 173 

sweetbreads, 171 
Candy, ginger, 370 

orange flower, 370 

orange-flower, another receipt, 370 
Canellon delimit/, 155 

Canellons, filled with apricot or peach marma- 
lade. 300 
Caper sauce, 106 

for fish, 106 
Capillaire in punch, 376 
Caramel, to boil sugar to, 369 
Carrots, au bcurre. 2-46 

to boil, 245 

sweet, for seqpnd course, 246 
Carrot, soup, common, 47 

pies, 393 
Carving, directions for, 395 
Catsup, the cook's, or compound, 116 

mushroom, 115 

mushroom, double, 116 

lemon, 117 



Catsup, pontac, for fish, 117 

tomata, 117 

walnut, 116 
Cauliflowers, to boil, 239 

French receipt for, 240 

served with fowls, 207 
Cayenne vinegar, 119 
Celery, boiled, 248 

sauce. 111 
Celery, stewed, 248 
Chantilly baskets, 310 
Charlotte de pommes, or apple Charlotte, 325 

o la Parisienne, 326 
Cheese, with maccaroni, 302 

with maccaroni, a la Heine, 303 

to serve with white and maccaroni 
soup, 44 

to preserve, 394 
Cheese-cakes, cocoa-nut (Jamaica receipt,) 266 

lemon (the Christ Church College receipt.) 
267 
Cherries, compote of Kentish, 307 

compote of morella, 307 

dried with sugar, 334 

dried without, 335 

dried, superior receipt, 334 
Cherry cheese, 335 

jam. 334 

pasle, 335 

pudding, 274 
Chestnuts, boiled, 374 

roasted, 374 
Chicken, broiled, 207 

cutlets, 208 

fried, a la Malabar, 208 

pie, (common), 256 

modern pie, 255 
Chickens, boiled. 206 

fricaseed, 207 
China chilo, of, mutton, 182 
Chocolate, custard, 323 

to make, 383 
Chops, lamb or mutton, broiled 181 

mutton, stewed in their own gravy (good), 
181 

pork, 190 
Chowder, to make, 68 
Christopher North s own sauce for many meats, 

102 
Cocoa-nut biscuit, 366 

cheesecakes, 266 

milk, flavoured with, for sweet dishes, 306 

puddings, 292 
Cod-fish, to boil, 66 

slices of, fried, 67 

stewed, 67 

stewed in brown gravy, 67 
Cod's soumls, to boil, 68 

to fry in baiter, 68 

head and shouldeis. to carve, 395 
Coffee, to boil, 381 

breakfast. French, 382 

buint, 383 

to filter, 382 

to refine, 382 

strona. clear, to serve after dinner, caHed 
cafe voir, 382 

to roast, 381 
Cold, calf's head to dress. 162, 163 

fowls, ditto, 209, 210 

leg of mutton, ditto, 179 

viaitre a" hotel, sauce, 100 . 

meat, excellent sauces to serve with, 101 104 

salmon, to dress, 66 

turbot, ditto, 6-1 
Collops minced, 156 

saute pan for trying, 136 

Scotch, 191 
Compote, of green apricots, 307 

of bullaces, 307 

of currants, 307 

of green currants, 306 

of cherries, 307 

of damsons, 307 

of green gooseberries, 306 

of magnum bonum, or other large plums, 307 



410 



INDEX. 



Compote of oranges, 373 

apples (our lady's receipts), 373 
of peaches, 307 
of spring fruit, 306 
Conjurer a, its uses, 135 
Confectionary, 368 
Consommee, 86 
Constantia jelly, 313 
Corn, Indian, 391 

Indian, green, 392 
Cottage Christmas pudding, 278 
Crabs, Siberian, jelly of, 348 
Cray-fish, to boil, 79 
Cream, Chantilly basket filied with, 316 
crust, 252 

lemon, made without cream, 317 
Nesselrode, 315 

sauce for fish, 98 
in soups, 45, 47, 48 
Creams, lemon, 317 

fruit, 318 p 

Italian, 318 n 

Meringuee, 317 

Patissiere, 267 
Croquettes uf rice, 300 

filled with preserve, 301 
Crust, butter, for puddings, 271 

cream, 252 

flead, 252 
French, for hot or cold meat pies, 252 
rich short, for tarts, 253 

common suet for pies, 253 

very superior ditto, for pies, 253 

suet, for puddings, 271 
Crusts, to serve with cheese, 388 
Cucumber vinegar, 118 

a la creme, 238 

a la Poulette, 238 

dressed, 237 

fried, 238 

6tewed, 237 
Curiasseau, or curacoa, 379 
Currants, to clean for puddings and caices. 269 

green, stewed 306 

red, stewed, 307 

red. stewed, served with sweet puddings, 
_ 276 . 

Currant, custard, 323 

dumplings, 282 

Jam. green, 338 

jam, red, delicious, 339 

jam, 339 

jelly, French, 338 

jelly, superlative red, 338 

jelly, white, very fine, 339 

ditto, tartlets, 268 

paste, 339 

pudding, 274 

wine, 380 
Curried eggs, 224 

gravy, 225 

maccaroni, 224 

oysters, 225 

sweetbreads, 224 

Currie, Mr. Amott's, 222 

a Bengal, 222 

to boil rice for, 54, 55 

common Indian, 223 
Curries, remarks on. 222 

Selim's (Capt. White's), 224 
Custard, baked, 324 

the Queen's, 323 

veal, 261 
Custards, boiled, 322 

boiled, rich, 322 

chocolate, 323 

French, 324 

American, pudding. 393 
Cutlets of fowls, partridges, or pigeons, 208 

lamb, in their own gravy, stewed, 181 

Iamb, or mutton, with Soubise sauce, 185 

mutton broiled, 18? 

of cold mutton, 183 

mutton, in their own gravy, stewed, 181 

pork, 190 

veal, a U Francaise, 170 



Cutlets of veal, a la mode de Landres, or Lon 
don fashion, 171 
veal, fried, 170 
of Bweatbreads, 171 
epare-rib, to roast, 190 

Damson, cheese, 343 

jam. 343 

jelly, 343 

solid, 343 

pudding, 293 
Dried apples, to stew, 373 

cherries, with sugar, 334 

cherries, without sugar, 333 

gooseberries, without sugar, 335 

mushrooms, 120 

plums (Pruneaux de Tours), to stew, 373 
Dry, to, apricots, a quick and easy method, 342 

Mogul plums, 341 

Eeaches or nectarines, 342 
read, 393 
Ducks, to roast, 211 

to carve, 399 

stuffing for, No. 9, 125 

wild, to roast, 219 
Dumplings, apple (fashionable), 281 

currant, light, 282 

lemon, 282 

tomata, American, 281 
Dutch, or hung beef, 152 

custard, 291 

flummery, 319 

Eels, whiting jack, to carve, 399 

boiled, German receipt, 78 

Cornish receipt, 78 

to fry, 78 
Egg balls, 126 

sauce, for calf's head, 96 

sauce, common, 96 

sauce, good, 96 
Eggs, curried, 224 

forced, for salad, 303 

to whisk, for cakes, &c. 
Elderbeny wine, 379 

Elegant, the Economist's pudding, 277, 285 
English, brown gravy, 87 

oyster patties. 260 

puff paste, 252 
Entremets, apple charlottes, 325 

apple calf's feet jelly, 310 

apricot blamange, 319 

asparagus points, dressed like peas, 234 

apple cake, or German tart, 262 

a good apple tart, 253 

apple, peach, &c, fritters, 299 

barberry tart, 263 

blanc manger, 319 

boiled custards, 322 

Bermuda witches, 328 

cocoa-nut cheese cakes, 266 

cannelons, 300 

cocoa-nut flavoured milk, 306 

constantia jelly, 313 

croquettes of rice, 301 

calf's feet jelly, 309 

compotes of fruit, 306 

creme meringuee, 317 

chocolate custard, 323 

common lemon tartlets, 267 

custards, 268 

fritters of cake and pudding, 299 

fanchonnettes, 268 

French beans, 236 

green peas, French fashion, 235 

tried potatoes, 231 

French custards, 324 

finer do. 301 

fancy jellies, 314 

forced eggs, 303 

fruit creams, 318 

gateau de pomme, 308 

green peas with cream, 235 

German puffs, 325 

hedgehog, 321 

isinglass jelly, 311 



INDEX. 



411 



Entremets, lemon sandwiches, 268 

imperial gooseberry fool, 322 

Kentish fritters, 298 

jaune manger, 319 

lemon fritrers, 300 

lemon calf's feet jelly, 312 

marmalade for the charlotte, 326 

mince pies, 265 

Nesselrode cream, 315 

an omlette soufflee, 296 

of peaches. 307 

orange calf's feet jelly, 311 

of mixed fruits, 309 

potato fritters, 300 

prepared apple juice, 305 

pommes au berre, 326 

potaio boulettes, 232 

pudding pies, 266 

pastry sandwiches, 268 

pancakes, 298 

queen's custard, 323 

quince blamange, 320 

small vol-au-venis a la Howitt, 268 

sweet carrots, 246 

spinach, French receipt, 233 

suedoise of peaches, 327 

scooped potatoes, 231 

strawberry blamanae, 319 

striped blamanse, 321 

stewed barberries, 308 

strawberry isinglass jelly, 313 

Swiss cream, 316 

turnips in white sauce, 245 

to fry Jerusalem artichokes, 247 

tart, with royal icing, 262 

tartlets of almond paste, 264 

the monitor's tart, 265 

a vol-au-vent of fruit, 259 
a la creme, 259 

whipped syll;ibubs, 318 

fricandeau of veal, 168 

mutton kidney, French fashion, 184 

stewed leg of lamb, with white sauce, 
185 

loin of lamb stewed in butter, 185 

lamb or mutton cutlets, with Soubise 
sauce, 185 

veal collops, French fashion, 170 

veal cutlets, London fashion, 171 
Entrees, sweetbreads, simply stewed, 171 

sweetbread cutlets, 171 

blanquette of veal, 173 

sucking pig, en blanquettes, 189 

fowl a la carlsfort, 206 

fricasseed fowls or chicken, 207 

cutlets of fowls, 208 

fried chickens a la Malabar. 208 

hashed fowl, 209 

minced fowl, 209 

stewed duck, 211 

a vol-au-vent, 258 

oyster patties, 260 

good chicken pattie3, 260 

veal custard, 261 
rissoles, 301 

very savoury rissoles, 301 

rissoles of fish, 301 
Epicurean sauce, 118 
Eschalots, to pickle, 355 

to serve with venison, 214 
Eschalot sauce, mild, 110 

vinegar, 119 

wine. 119 
Espagnole, or Spanish sauce, 88 

Fanchonnettes, 268 

Fancy jellies, 314 

Fennel sauce, 104 

Ftxdlletage, or fine puff paste. 250 

Fillets of mackerel, boiled, 73 

in wine, 74 

of mackerel, 74 

of halibut, &c, 69 
Fillet of mutton, 179 

of veal, boiled, 165 

of veal, roast, 164 



Fish, to carve, 395 

boiled, to render firm, 63 

brine, for boiling, 62 

to choose, 60 

to clean, 61 

to keep, 62 

to keep bot for table. 63 

to sweeten when tainted, 62 

salt, to boil, 68 

salt, a la maitre d'holel, 68 

salt, in potato-pasty, 254 
Flead, or fleed crust, 252 
Flannel cakes, 389 
Flavouring, for sweet disees, 120 

lemon brandy for sweet dishes, 120 
Flounders, to boil, and fry, 74 
Flour, browned for thickening soups, &c. 114 
Flour of potatoes, fecule de pommes de terre 
121 

of rice, 121 
Fondu, a, 297 
Forced eggs, or eggs en surprise, 303 

eggs, for salad, 303 
Forcemeats, general remarks on, 122 

balls for mock turtle, No. 10, 125 

Mr. Cooke's, for geese or ducks, No. 9, 
125 

good common, for veal, turkeys, &.c, No. 
1, 122 

another good common. No. 2, 123 

French, an excellent. No. 14, 127 

French, called Quenelles, No. 15, 127 

mushroom, No. 7, 124 

oyster, No. 5, 124 

oyster, finer, No. 6, 124 

for raised, and other cold pies, No. 16, 128 

common suel, No. 4, 123 

superior suet, No. 3, 123 
Fowl, a, 200 

to broil, 207 

a la Carlsfort, 206 

fried, a la Malabar, 208 

hashed, 209 

minced, French receipt, 209 

roast, French receipt, 209 

to roast a, 205 

scallops of, au bechamel, 210 

to carve, 398 

a la mayonnaise, 210 

to bone, 200 

boiled, 206 

cutlets of, 208 

fricasseed, 297 

cold, en friture, 210 

ditto, grillade of, 210 

ditto, the housekeeper's receipt, 210 
French batter, for frying, fruit, vegetables, &c 
113 

melted butter, 94 

crust, for hot or cold pies, 252 
French receipt for boiling a ham, 194 

maitre d'hotel sauce, 99, 100 

rice pudding, 287 

parti idges. 218 

semoulma pudding, 287 

salad, 239 

salad dressing, 103 

thickening, or roux, 92 

beans, a la Francaise, 236 

beans, an excellent receipt for, 236 
French beans, to boil, 236 
Fricandeau of veal, 168 
Fried anchovies in batter, 83 

bread-crumbs, 114 

bread-crumbs for garnishing, 114 

canellons, 300 

codfish, slices of, 67 

mackerel, 72 

parsneps, 246 

potatoes, 231 

fried sturgeon, 71 

trout, 77 

onions, 249 
Fritters, apple or apricot, 299 
cake, 299 

Kentish, 298 



412 



INDEX. 



Fritters, lemon, 300 

mincemeat, very good, 299 

orange, 300 

plain, common, 298 

plum-pudding, 299 

potatoe, 300 

of spring i'ruit (rhubarb), 299 

Venetian, 299 
Fruit, to bottle lor winter use, 329 

creams, 318 

tart, with royal icing, 262 

en chemise, or perle, 372 
Frying, general directions tor, 136 

Galantine of chicken, 200 

Galette, 367 

Game, to choose, 212 

directions for keeping, 213 
Garlic, 11 ; 

vinegar, recommended in sauces, 102 

garnishes, 400 

garnishing and setting out a table, 395 
Gateau of mixed fruits, 309 

de pommes, 308 

de riz, or French rice pudding, 287 
Geneva rolls, 387 
German puff's, 325 

pudding, 276 

pudding sauce, delicious, 112 
Gherkins, to pickle, 352 
Cmger biscuits, 365 

bread, 364 

candy, 370 

wine, excellent, 379 
Glaze, to, pastry, 250 

to make, 90 
Glazing, directions for, 139 
Goose, to roast, 204 

to carve, 399 

to roast a green, 205 

to deprive of its strong odour, 204 
Gooseberries, to bottle, 315 

dried, without sugar, 333 
Gooseberry jam, 333 

pudding, 274 

sauce for mackerel, 105 
Grape jelly, 344 
Gravies, to heighten the colour and flavour of, 

. « 

introductory remarks on, 83 

shin of beef stock for, 85 
Gravy, good beef or veal, English receipt, 87 

common brown, 89 

rich brown, 87 

cheap, for a fowl, 88 

another cheap, 89 

curried, 225 

Espagnole, highly-flavoured, 88 

for a goose, 89 

in haste, 88 

orange, fur wild fowl, 89 

veal, rich, deep-coloured, 86 

veal, rich, pale, or consommee, 85 

for venison, 87 

sweet sauce, or gravy, for venison, 88 

soup, or stock, clear, pale, 42 

soup, another receipt for, 43 
Green game jam, 341 

goose, to roast, 205 

mint sauce, 106 

mint vinegar, 118 . 

peas, a la Francaise, 235 

peas, to boil, 235 

peas, with cream, 235 

peas-soup, cheap, 56 

peas, excellent, 55 

peas, without meat, 55 
Ground rice puddings, 290 

in pudding pies, 266 
Grouse, salmi of, 219 
Guava, English, 344 

strawberry jelly, which resembles, 336 
Guinea-Iowl, to roast, 206 

Haddocks, baked, 74 
to boil, 74 



Halibut, to boil, 69 
Ham, to bake a, 195 

to carve, 398 

to boil a, 194 

to boil a, a French receipt, 194 

potted, 226 
Hams, Bordyke receipt for, 193 

to pickle, 192 

superior to Westphalia, 193 

genuine Yorkshire receipt for, 191 
Hamburgh pickle, for hams, beef, and tongues, 
152 

another, for hams, beef, and tongues, 152 
Hare, to choose, 212 

to carve, 400 

to roast, 215 

lard yeast, .190 
Harncots blancs, '247 
Harrico, Norman, 169 
Hashed buuillt, 159 

calf's head, 162 

fowl, 209 

venison, 215 
Hash, a, of cold beef or mutton, excellent, 157 

common, of cold beef or mutton, 158 

cheap, of calf 's head, 162 

Norman, 158 
Hasty pudding, 393 
Haunch of mutton, to roast, 176 

of venison, to roast, 213 

Icing, for tarts, &c, 250 
Imperatrice plums, to dry, 345 

very fine marmalade of, 327 
Imperial gooseberry fool, 322 
Imperials, 360 
Indian corn, American mode of cooking, 391 

cake, or bannock, 391 

corn, green, 392 

currie, common, 223 

pudding, 294 

coin, or maize pudding, baked, 392 

boiled maize pudding, 392 
Irish stew, 183 
Isinglass to clarify, 305 

jelly, orange, 312 

strawberry, and other cherries, 313 
Italian creams, 318 

jellies, 314 

modes of dressing maccaroni, 302 

pork cheese, 196 

Jam, barberry, 349 

cherry, 334 

currant, green, 338 

currant, red, delicious, 339 

currant, white, a beautiful preserve, 339 

gooseberry, red, 333 

green goosebeny, 332 

of mixed fruits, 309 

of Mogul plums, 341 

peach, or nectarine, 342 

raspberry, 337 

raspberry, very good, red or white, 337 

strawberry, 335 
Jaumange, or jaune manger, called also Dutch 

flummery, 3l9 
Jellies, calf's leet stock for, 304 

to clarify calf's feet stock for, 304 

to clarify isingiass tor, 305 

meat for pies and sauces, 90 

cheaper meat, 90 
Jelly, apple, 3l5 

apple, exceedingly fine, 346 

apple, calf's feet, 310 

barberry, 349 

calf's feet, 309 

calf's feet, another receipt for, 310 

lemon, calf's feet, 312 

orange, calf's feet, 3U 

orange isinglass, 311 

Constantia, 313 

black currant, 340 

currant, red, 338 

currant, red, French, 338 

red currant superlative, Norman receipt 
3J8 



INDEX. 



413 



Jelly, currant, white, very fine, 33 ( J 
damson, 343 
green gooseberry, 332 

Rater's, receipt for boiling potatoes, 230 
Kentish, receipt tor cutting up and curing a 
pig, 142 
fritters, 298 
Kidneys, mutton, a la Francaise, 183 
Kidney, beef, to dress, 157 

Lady's, the, sauce for fish, 99 
Lamb, cutleis, 186 

leg of, with white sauce, 185 

roast loin of, l£5 

loin of, stewed in butter, 185 

to roast a quarter of, 184 

roast saddle of, 185 

sauce for, 185 

tore quarter, to carve, 398 
Lard, to melt, 187 

to preserve unmelted, for many months, 187 

to, a pheasant, 140 
Larding, general directions for, 139 
Lardmg-pins, 139 
Lardoons, 139 
Leeks, to boil, 234 
Lemonade, delicious, milk, 378 

excellent, portable, 378 
Lemon cakes, 365 

cheesecakes, 267 

dumplings. 282 

fritters, 300 

jelly, calf's feet, 312 

pickle, or catsup, 117 

pudding, an excellent, 284 

pudding, another receipt for, 284 

suet, pudding, 284 

tartlets, 267 _ 
Lemons, boiled in mincemeat, 265 

to pickle, 356 
Lettuces, in mayonnaise of fowls, 210 

stewed, 234 

in salads, 239 
Limes, to pickle, 356 

Lie, or ley, for washing pudding cloths, 270 
Liver, calf's fried, 172 

to roast, 172 
Lobster, to boil, 79 

slewed, 79 

cold, 79 

butter, 79 

fricasseed, or au bechamel, 79 

potied, 228 

sauce, common, 98 

sauce, good, 98 

Macaroons, almond, 359 

orange-flower, delicious. 359 
Maccaroni, ribbon, to boil, 302 

pipe, to boil, 302 

a la Heine, 303 

dressed, various ways, 302 

with gravy, 302 

soup, 44 
Mackarel, to carve, 396 

to bake, 72 

to boil, 71 

broiled whole, 73 

fillets of, boiled, 73 

fillets of, broiled or fried, 72 

fillets of, stewed in wine, 74 

fried, French receipt, 72 
Madeira cake. 362 

Madeleine puddings, to serve cold, 287 
Magnum bonum plumbs, to dry, or preserve, 

341 
Maitre d' hotel, sauce, cold, 99 

sauce, French, 99 

sauce, sharp, Enelifh rereipt for, 98 
Mandrang, or mandram, West Indian receipt, 
237 

another receipt for, 237 
Marmalade, apple, for Charlotte, 325 

barberry, 349 

orange, 350 

orange, genuine Scotch receipt for, 351 



Marmalade, peach, 342 

quince, 347 

quince and apple, 348 

Scotch, 351 
Marrow bones, baked, 159 

to boil. 159 

clarified, to keep, 159 

vegetable, to dress in various ways, 240 
Mashed carrots, 246 

parsneps, see turnips, 245 

potatoes, 231 

potatoes, crust of, for pasty, 254 

turnips, an excellent receipt for, 244 
Mayonnaise, a delicious sauce to serve with 

cold meat, &c 104 
Meat, .jellies for, pies, 90 

pie's, crust for, 252, 253 

puddings, 272 

rolls, 260 
Melange of fruit for dessert, 371 
Melon, to serve with meat, 238 
Mehed butter, 94, 95 
Milk, cocoa-nut flavoured, for sweet dishes, 306 

milk yeast, 390 

lemonade, delicious. 378 
Mild eschalot sauce, 110 

mustard. 113 
Minced, collops, 156 

fowl, 209 

veal, 174 

veal, with oysters, 174 
Mincemeat, Auihor's receipt, 264 

superlative, 265 

fritters, 299 

pudding. 279 

American, 394 
Mince pies, 265 

royal, 265 
Miniature round of beef, 155 
Mintjulep, 378 

sauce, 106 
Miss Bremer's pudding, 276 
Mock, brawn. 196 

venison, 178 
Modern chicken pie, 255 

potato pasty, 254 
Monitor's tart, 265 
Moor game, to roast and hash, 219 
Mould for French pies, or casseroles of rice. 

250 
Muffins, 389 

wheat, 389 

rice, 389 
Mull, to, wine, an excellent receipt, French, 

Mullagatawny soup, 53 
Mullet, grey, to boil, 75 

red, to bake, broil, or roast, 75 
Mushroom catsup, 115 

catsup, double, 116 

forcemeat, 124 

powder, 120 

sauce, brown, 108 • 

sauce, another, 107 

sauce, white. 107 
„ toast, or croute auz champignons, 243 
Mushroom*, au beurre, 242 

dried, 120 

with partridges, 217 

in pigeon pie, 256 
Mushrooms, pickled, in brine for winter use,, 
3d4 

to pickle, 354 

potted, delicious, 243 
Mussel-plums, preserves of, 341 
Mustard, to make, 113 

Tartar, 113 

horseradish vinegar for ditto, 119 
Mutton, broth, 59 

to choose, 175 

cutlets, with Soubise sauce, 185 

cutlets, to broil, 184 

cutlets, stewed in their own gravy, 181 

fillet of, 179 

haunch of, to roast, 176 

kidneys a la lYancaise, 183 

kidneys, broiled, 184 



414 



INDEX 



Mutton, kidneys, Oxford receipt for, 184 
leg of, to boil, an excellent receipt, 179 
leg of, boned and forced, 177 
leg of, 397 
leg of, roast, 177 

leg of, roast, superior receipt for, 177 
leg of, cold roast, 179 
loin of, roast, 180 
loin of, stewed like venison, 180 
pie. common, 257 
saddle of. to roast, 176 
shoulder of, to bake with potatoes, 113 
shoulder of, to roast. 180 
shoulder of, forced, 181 
shoulder of, spiced, 180 
shoulder of, to carve, 397 
haunch of, to carve, 398 
a good family stew of, 182 
stock for soup, 46 
saddle or collar of, to carve, 397 

Nasturtiums, to pickle, 353 
Neck and loins, to carve, 397 
Nesselrode cream, 315 

sauce, 95 
Norman harricot, 169 
Normandy pippins, 373 
Nouillcs, to make, 40 

Old-fashioned boiled custard, 322 
Omlette aux fines herbes, 296 

soufflee, 296 
Omlets, observations on, 295 
Omlet, common, 296 
Onion sauce, brown, 109 

sauce, brown, another receipt for, 110 

sauce, white, 109 

and sage sluffing for ducks and geese, 125 

rich white sauce of, or Soubise. 110 
Onions, to pickle, 356 
Onions, stewed, 249 

to boil, 249 

to fry. 249 
Orange- baskets for jelly, 312 

calf's feet jelly, 311 

conserve, 351 

fritters, 299 

gravy, 89 

isinglass jelly, 311 

marmalade, 350 

salad, 372 

snowballs, 281 

wine, 379 

compote of, 372 

warmed, 372 
Orange -flower, candy, 370 

Oranges, compote of, a Hebrew dish, 372 

filled with jelly, in stripes, 312 

warmed, 372 
Oven, for baking bread, 384 
Oxford receipt for Bishop, 376 

punch, 376 
Ox-tail, stewed, 151 

soup, 58 
Ox-tongue, to pickle, 152 

potted, 227 
Oyster forcemeat, No. 5, 124 

patties, 260 

sauce, common, 99 

sauce, good, 98 

sausages, 82 

soup, white, or a la Reine, 51 

curried, 225 

to feed, 80 
Oysters, to fry, 82 

scalloped, a la Reine. 82 

to scallop, 81 

to stew, 81 

another mode, 81 

broiled. 83 

au gratin, 12 

Pain de pore frais, or sausage-meat cake, 197 
Pain de veau, Bordyke receipt, 168 
Palace bnnbons, 3 7 1 
Palotes, beef, to dress, 150 
Panada, 128 



Pancakes, 298 
Parsley and butter, 105 

to crisp, 112 

fried, 112 
Parsley-green for colouring sauces, 112 
Parsneps to boil, 246 

fried, 246 
Partridges, to carve, 399 

gravy. 88, 89 
Partridges, broiled, 218 

broiled, French receipt, 218 

potted. 226 

pudding, 272 

soup, 53 

boiled, 219 

with mushrooms, 217 

to roast, 216 

salmi, or rich hash of, 219 
Paste, almond. 263 

brioche, 253 

cherry, French, 335 

currant, 339 

very good light, 251 
English puffs, 252 

fine puff", or feuilletage, 250 

quince, 348 
Pastry, icing for, 250 

general remarks on, 250 

sandwiches, 268 
Pasty, potato, 254 

varieties of, 255 
Pate Brisee, or French crust for hot or cold 

pies, 252 
Patties a la Cardinal, 260 

good chicken, 260 

oyster, 260 

sweet boiled, 282 

tartlets, small vols-au-vents, to make, 261 
Peach, fritters, 299 

jam, or marmalade, 342 

mangoes, 354 
Peaches, compote of, 307 

to dry, an easy and excellent receipt, 342 

to pickle, 353 

stewed, receipt for, 308 

Suedoise of, 327 

vol-au-vent of, 259 
Pears, baked, 373 

stewed. 373 
Peas, green, to boil, 235 

with cream, 235 
Peas soup, common, 57 

without meat, 58 

rich, 57 
Perch, to boil, 77 

to fry, 78 
Pheasant, to carve, 399 

salmi of, 219 

soup, 52 
Pickle, for beef, tongues, and hams, 152 
Pickle to, barberries, 356 

beet-root, 355 

cherries, 352 

eschalots, 355 

gherkins, 352 

limes, 356 

lemons, 356 

mushrooms in brine, 354 

mushrooms, an excellent receipt, 354 

nasturtiums, 353 

onions, 356 

peaches and peach mangoes, 354 

pork, 152 

walnuts, 355 

Siberian crabs, 356 
Pickles, where to be procured good, 352 

general remarks on, 352 
Pie, beef-steak, 256 

a common chicken, 256 

a modern chicken, 255 

pumpkin and squash, 392 

carrot, 393 

mutton, common, 257 

pigeon, 256 
Pies, good crust for, 252 

suet, -crust for, 253 

meat jelly for, 90 



INDEX. 



4ii 



Pies, mince, 265 

mince royal, 265 

pudding, 266 

raised, 257 
Pigeons, to carve, 399 

to boil, 212 

to roast, 212 

to stew, 212 

served with cresses, for second course, 212 
Pig, divisions of, 186 

to bake a sucking, 188 

sucking, en blanquette, 189 

sucking, to carve, 398 

to roast a sucking, 188 

a la Tartare 189 
Pig's cheeks, to pickle, 193 

feet and ears, in brawn, 196 
Pike, to bake, 77 

Pintail, or Sea Pheasant, to roast, 220 
Pippins, Normandy, to stew, 373 
Piquante, sauce. 101 
Plaice, to boil, 74 

to fry, 75 
Plum-puddings, 278, 279 
Plums, compote of, 307 
Poelee. 130 

Pommes au beurre, 326 
Pontac catsup, 117 
Poor author's pudding, 294 
Poor man's sauce, 102 
Pork, to choose, 186 

cutlets of, to broil or fry, 190 

spare ribs, to roast, 190 

Italian cheese of, 196 

observations on, 186 

to pickle, 152, 197 

to roast, 189 

to roast a saddle of, 190 

sausages of, 197, 198 

and beans, 394 
Portable, lemonade, 378 
Pot-au-Feu. or stock pot, 41 

fowls, &c, boiled in, 41 
Potato-balls, English, 232 

bouleties, guod, 232 

bread, 386 

fritters, 300 

flour, or fecule de pommes de terre, 121 

pasty, modern, 254 

puddings, 290, 291 

rissoles, French, 232 

soup, 48 

yeast, 391 
Potatoes, a la crcme, 233 

a la maitre d' hotel, 232 

to boil, genuine Irish receipt, 229 

to boil, another way, 230 

to boil (Captain Rater's receipt), 230 

fried, 231 

mashed, and moulded in various ways, 231 

new, in butter, 230 

new, to boil, 230 

to roast, or bake, 230 

scooped, 231 
Potted chicken, partridge, or pheasant, 227 

ham, 226 

lobster, 228 

meats, various. 226 

mushrooms, 228 

ox tongue, 227 
Poultry, to bone, 200 

to choose, 199 

observations on keeping, 199 

to lard, 140 
Powder, mushroom, 120 

of savoury herbs, 121 
Prepared apple or quince juice, 305 
Prepared calf's head, the cook's receipt, 162 
Preserve a, fine, of red currants, :«9 

delicious, of white currants, 339 

another good melange, or mixed, 340 
Preserve, nursery, 340 

to, the flavour and colour of fruit, jams 
and jellies, 331 J ' 

Preserves. French portable furnace and stew- 
pan, convenient for making, 329 



Preserves, general rules and directions for, 330 
Pruneaux de Tours, or compote of dried 

plums, 373 
Pudding, a la Paysanne, 294 

baked, almond, 284 

apple, or custard, 291 

common apple, 291 

apple and rice, 293 

Bakewell, 285 

barberry and rice, 293 

good bread, 286 

rich bread and butter, 286 

common bread and butter, 286 

damson and rice, 293 

the Duchess's, 291 

the elegant economist's, 285 

Essex, cheap and good, 291 

good ground rice, 289 

a common ground rice, 290 

hasty, 295 

Indian, 294 

lemon, 284 

an excellent lemon, 284 

lemon-suet, 284 

Normandy, 293 

Coor author's, 294 
aked, potato, 290 
a richer potato, 290 
the printers', 283 
the publishers' 275 
a common raisin, 294 
a richer raisin, 294 
raspberry, or Dutch custard, 291 
a common rice, 288 
a French rice, or Gateau de riz, 287 
rice, meringue, 289 
richer rice, 288 
bird's nest, 393 
hasty, 393 
sponge cake, 290 
vermicelli, 292 
common Yorkshire. 293 
good Yorkshire, 292 
boiled, a la Scoones, apple, cherry, currant 

or any other fresh fruit, 274 
a common apple, 274 
the author's Christmas, 279 
common batter, 273 
another batter, 273 
batter and fruit, 273 
small beefsteak, 272 
Ruth Pinch's, or beef-steak pudding, a I* 

Dickens, 272 
superlative beefsteak, 272 
bread, 279 
brown bread, 280 
Bremer's, Miss, 276 
cottage Christmas, 278 
common custard, 276 
small custard, 275 
the elegant economist's, 277 
German pudding and sauce, 276 
lngoldsby Christmas puddings, 278 
boiled, an excellent small mincemeat, 279 
mutton, 272 
partridge, 272 
small light plum, 278 
another small light plum, 278 
vegetable plum, 278 
a very good raisin, 277 
a cheap rice, 281 
a good rice, 280 
rolled, 279 
a cheap suet, 274 
another suet, 274 
tomata, 281 

Puddings, general directions for, baked, 28S 
to mix batter for, 271 
general directions for boiled, 269 
butter crust for, 271 
cloths for, to wash, 270 
suet-crust, for, 271 
to clean currants for, 270 
Indian corn, or maize, baked, 392 
boiled maize, 392 
custard, American, 393 



416 



INDEX 



Pudding, plum, American, 393 

apple, " 393 

email cocoa-nut, 292 

Madeleine, to serve cold, 287 

Sutherland, or castle, 287 
Pudding-pies, 266 

a common receipt for, 266 
Puff-paste, canellons of, 300 
Puffs, German, 325 

raspberry, or other fruit, 235 
Punch. Oxford, 376 
Pumpkins, 391 
Pumpkin and squash pie, 392 

sauce for sweet puddings, 111 
Puree of artichokes, 110 

tine, of onions, or Soubise sauce, 110 

of tomatas, 242 

of turnips, 110 

of vegetable marrow, 110 

Quenelles, or French forcemeat, 127 
Queen cakes, 366 
Queen's custard, 323 
Queen Mab's pudding, 314 
Quince blamange, 320 

blamange, with almond cream, 320 

custards, 323 

je"y. 347 

juice, prepared, 305 

marmalade, 347 

paste, 348 

Rabbits, to carve, 400 

to boil, 216 

to fry, 216 

to roast, 216 

soup, brown, 51 
Radishes, turnip, to boil, 233 
Raisin puddings, 277, 294 

wine, which resembles foreign, 378 
Ramekins a V Ude, 2ti8 
Raspberries, to preserve for creams or ices, 

without boiling, 336 
Raspberry jam. 337 

jam, red or white, 337 

jelly, for flavouring creams, 337 

jelly, another good, 337 

vinegar, very fine, 375 
Red cabbage, to stew, 248 
Rhubarb, or spring fruit, compote of, 306 
Rice, to boil for curries, or mullagatawny 

soup, 54, 55 
Rice boiled, to serve with stewed fruits, &c, 282 

cake, 361, 389 

croquettes of, 301 

muffins, 389 

puddings, 281. 288. 289,290 

soup, 45 

soup, white, 46 
Rice, sweet, a la Portugaise, 328 

flour, to make, 121 
Rice flour soup, 46 

flour, to thicken soups with, 39 
Rissoles, 301 

offish, 301 

very savoury, 301 
Roasting, general directions for, 131 

slow method of, 132 
Roast beef, see Chapter VIII. 

chestnuts, 374 

game, see Chapter XIII. 

lamb, see Chapter X. 

mutton, see Chapter X. 

potatoes, 231 

pork, see Chapter XI. 

poultry, see Chapter XII. 

veal, see Chapter IX. 
Rolled, calf's head. 162 

shoulder of mutton, 180, 181 

shoulder of veal, 166 

ribs of beef, 153 

sir'oin of beef, 149 
Roll beef, or canellon de bmuf, 155 
Rolls, Geneva, 387 
Roux, or French thickening brown, 92 

white. 93 
Rusks, 388 



Sago soup, 45 
Salad, to dress. 239 

French, 239 

orange, 372 

peach. 372 

Suffolk, 239 

Yorkshire ploughman's, 239 

dressings, and sauces, 102, 103 

Salamander to brown with, 141 
Salmi of moor fowl, pheasants or partridges, 

219 
Salmon, to carve, 395 

to bake, 64, 137 

to boil, 65 

to broil. 64 

crimped, 65 

a la St. Marcel, 66 

to roast, 138 

Rock-fish to boil, 69 
Salt fish, to boil, 68 

a la maitre d' hotel, 68 

to, beef, in various ways, 151, 152 

to, limes and lemons, for pickling, 356 
Sauce, baked apple, 109 

boiled apple. 108 

brown apple, 109 

artichoke, 110 

asparagus, for lamb cutlets, 105 

bechamel, 93 

another common bechamel, 94 

bread, 97 

bread, with onion, 97 

caper, 106 

brown caper, 106 

caper for fish, 106 

celery. Ill 

Christopher North's own, for many meat*, 
102 

cream, for fish, 99 

common cucumber, 106 

another common cucumber, 107 

white cucumber, 107 

Dutch, 96 

common egg, 96 

egg, for calf's head, 96 

very good egg, 96 

epicurean, 118 

mild eschalot, 110 

espagnole, 88 

fennel. 104 

fricassee, 97 

Genevese, or sauce Genevoise, 101 

German, for fricassees, 93 

gooseberry, for mackerel, 105 

horse-radish, excellent, to serve hot or cold, 
with roast beef. 101 

hot horse-radish, 102 

the lady's, for fish. 100 

common lobster, 98 

good lobster, 98 

mayonnaise, very fine, to serve with cold 
meat, fish, or vegetables, 104 

maitre d' hotel, or steward's sauce, 100 

sharp maitre d'hotel, 99 

green mint for roast lamb, 106 

brown mushroom, 108 

another mushroom, 107 

white mushroom, 107 

Norfolk, 95 

brown onion, 109 

another brown onion, 110 

white onion, 109 

common oyster. 99 

good oyster, 98 

piquante, 101 

poor man's, 102 

common pudding, 112 

delicious, German pudding, 112 

punch, for sweet puddings, 111 

sweet pudding sauce, 111 

the Rajah's, 114 

Robert, 101 

common sorrel, 105 

Soubise, French receipt, 110 

Spanish, 88 

common tomata, 108 

a finer tomata, 108 



INDEX. 



417 



Sauce lournee, or thickened pale gravy, 93 

excellent turnip, 110 

very common white, 96 

English white, 96 
Saucisses a Tail, or garlic-flavourod sausages, 

as .^®® 

Saucisses aux truffes, or truffled sausages, 199 
Sausage-meat, cake of, 197 
in chicken pie, 255 
to make, 197, 198 
boned turkey filled with, 203 
Sausages, boiled, 198 

and chestnuts, an excellent dish, 198 
Scotch marmalade, 3£1 
Sea-pheasant, or pintail, to roast, 219 
Sea-bass, to boil, 69 
Sefton a, or veal custard, 261 
Sefton fancies, 268 
Shad. Touraine fashion, 76 

to take a, 76 

to broil a, 76 
Sippets, a la Reine, 40 

fried, 40 
Sirloin of beef, to roast, 143 

stewed, 149 
Smelts, small birds to roast, 218 

to fry, 75 
Snipes, to roast, 220 
Soda cake, 365 
Soles, baked, or au plat, 70 

to carve, 396 

to choose, 60 

fillets of, 69 

stewed in cream, 70 
Sorrel sauce, 105 
Souffle-pan, 295 

rice, 297 
Souffles, 296 
Sounds, cods', to boil, 68 

to fry in batter, 68 
coup, apple, 48 

good calf's head, not expensive, £0 

common carrot, 47 

gravy, clear, pale, 42 

another gravy, 43 

cheap, clear, gravy, 44 

pigeon, 52 

in haste, 59 

macaroni, 44 

. mock turtle, or calf's head, 49 

milk with vermicelli, 59 

rnullagatawny, «3 

mutton stock for soups, 46 

oxtail, 58 

white oyster, or oyster-soup a la Reine 51 

veal, 48 

partridge, S3 

common peas, 57 

peas, without meat, 58 

rich peas, 57 

a cheap green peas, 56 

an excellent green peas, 55 

green peas, without meat, 55 

pheasant, 52 

potage aux nouilla, or taillerinc soup, 45 

potato, 48 

brown rabbit soup, 61 

rice, 45 

rice flour, 46 

white rice, 45 

eago, 45 

semoulina, or soup a la Semoule, 43 

a cheap and good stew, 59 

tapioca, 45 

eommon turnip, 47 

a quickly made turnip, 47 

vermicelli, or potage au vermicelle, 44 

Westerfield white, 48 
Soups, introductory remarks on, 37 

to fry bread to serve with, 40 

nouillcs to serve in, 40 

to thicken, 39 

vegetable vermicelli for, 40 

souce, American. 394 
Spanish sauce, or Espagnole, 84 
Spiced beef, 153. 154 

26 



Spinach, common English modes, 233 
French receipt tor, 233 
green, for colouring sweet dishes. &c, 305 
Steaks, beef, 144 

Steaming, general directions for, 133 
Slewed, beef-steak, 146. 147 

beef-steak, in its own gravy, 146 
beet-root, 248 
cabbage, 248 
calf's feet, 172 
celery, 249 
cod fish, 67 
cucumber, 237 
iamb cutleU. 185 

leg of lamb with white sauce, 185 
lettuces, 234 

oin of lamb, in butter, 185 
lobsters, 80 
mackerel, in wine, 73 
fillets of mackerel, in wine, excellent, 74 
mutton cutlets, in their own gravy, 181 
loin of mutton, 180 
onions, 249 
oxtails, 151 
oysters, 81 
tonatas, 241 
trout, 73 

turnips in butter, 245 
turnips in gravy, 245 
lfiin of veal, 165 
sirloin of beef, 149 
shoulder of veal, 166 
shoulder of venison, 214 
soles in cream, 70 
Slew, a good English, 147 
a good family. 182 
a German, 147 
an Irish, 183 
Spring stew of veal. 169 
a Welsh, 147 » 

to, shin of beef, 148 
a rump of beef, 149 
sturgeon, 71 
Stewing, general directions for, 135 
Stock, clear pale. 42 
for white soup, 46 
mutton, for soups. 46 
shin of besf, for gravies, 85 
veal, for white soups, 42 
Store sauces, remarks on, 115 

flavouring, for puddings, cakes, and sweet 
dishes, 120 
Strawberries, to preserve, for flavouring creams. 

fcc, 336 
Strawberry, acid royal, 375 
jam, 335 
jelly, 336 
isinglass jelly, 313 
tartlets, 574 

vinegar, of delicious flavour, 374 
Stuffing for geese and ducks, No. 8, 125 

Cook's stuffing for geese and ducks. No. 9, 
125 
Sturgeon, to boil, 70 
to rosst, 70 
to stew, 71 
to fry, 71 
Squash, winter, to boil, 240 
Suedoise of peaches. 327 
Sugar, to boil, from syrup to caramel, 369 
to clarify. 368 
barley, 369 
Sweetbreads, to dress. 171 
a la maitred'hotel, 171 
cutlets of, 171 
roasted, 171 
Syllabub, a birthday, 377 
Syllabubs, superior whipped, 318 

Table, garnishing and setting out, 395, 400 
Tamarinds, acid, iu curries, 221 
Tapioca soup, 45 
Tart, barberry, 2t53 
Tartlets, of almond paste, 264 

to make, 261 

strawberry, 374 



418 



INDEX 



Tartlets, creamed, 325 
Tarts, to ice, 250 
Tea, to make, 383 

cakes, 388 
Tench, to fry, 78 
Terrapins, to cook, 80 
Toasting, directions for, 141 
TofHe, Everton, 371 

another way, 371 
Tomata catsup, 117 

sauces, 108 
Tomatas, forced, 241 

puree of, 242 

roast, 241 

en salade, 241 

stewed, 241 
Tongue, to boil, 157 

to cut in slices, 398 
Tourte meringue, or tart with royal icing, 262 
Trifle, an excellent, 315 

Swiss, very good, 316 
Trout, to stew, a good common receipt, 76 

in wine, 76 

to fry, 77 
Turbot, to carve, 395 

to boil, 63 

a la creme, 64 
Turkey, to carve, 399 

to boil, 202 

boned and forced, 203 

to bone, 200 

a la Flamande, 204 

to roast, 201 
Turnip radishes, to boil, 233 

soup, 47 
Turnips, to boil, 244 

to mash, 244 

stewed in butter, 245 

in gravy, 245 

in white sauce, 245 

Vanilla in cream, pudding, &c, 315 
Veal, breast of, boiled, 166 

breast of, roast, 166 

cakes, 168 

to choose, 160 

cutlets, 170 

cutlets, a la Francaise, 170 

cutlets, a la mode dc Londrcs, or London 
fashion, 171 

Doiled fillet of, 165 

roast fillet of, 164 

fricandeau of, 168 

boiled knuckle of, 167 

knuckle of, en ragout, 167 

knuckle of, with rice and green peas, 168 

boiled loin of, 165 

roast loin of, 165 

stewed loin olj 165 

minced, 174 

fillet of, to carve, 396 

breast of, to carve, 397 

minced with oysters, 174 



Veal, to bone a shoulder of, 166 

stewed shoulder of, 166 

spring stew of, 169 

Sydney, 174 
Vegetable marrow, to boil, fry, mash, &c. 

vermicelli, for soups. 40 
Vegetables, brine for boiling, 229 

to clear from insects, 229 

to keep fresh, 228 

general remarks on, 228 
Veloute, 94 
Venetian fritters, 299 
Venison, to choose, 212 

to hash, 214 

to keep, 213 

mock, 178 

to roast a haunch of, 213 

sauces for, 87, 88 

to stew a shoulder of. 214 

haunch of, to carve, 398 
Vermicelli pudding, 292 

soup, or potage au vermicelle, 44 
Vinegar, cayenne, 119 

celery, 119 

cucumber, 118 

eschalot, or garlic, 119 

horse-radish, 119 

green mint, 118 

raspberry, very fine, 375 

strawberry, 374 
Vol-au-vents, a, 258 

of fruit, 259 
Vols-au-vents, small, a la Howiit, 268 

small, to make, 261 
Vol-au-vent, a la creme, 259 

paste for, 253 

Walnut catsup, 116, 117 

Wheat muffins, 389 

Whitings, baked, a la Francaise, 71 

to boil, 71 
Wild ducks, to roast, 219 

pigeons, 218 
Wine, currant, 3P0 

elderberry, 379 

eschalot, 1 19 

ginger, 379 

to mull, an excellent receipt, 377 

orange, 379 

raisin, which resembles foreign, 378 
Woodcocks to roast, 220 

Yeast. 390 

milk, 390 

hard. 390 

potatoe, 391 

prepared, Dr. Leltsom's, 391 

to purify, for bread or cakes, 384 
Yorkshire ploughman's salad, 239 

pudding, 292, 293 

Zest, the doctor's, 121 



THE END. 




A BOOK FOR EVERY FAMILY IN THE UNION 



THE 



RELIGIOUS DENOMINATIONS 

IN THE 

UNITED STATES; 

THEIK HISTORY, DOCTRINE, GOVERNMENT AND STATISTICS ; WITH 

A PRELIMINARY SKETCH OF JUDAISM, PAGANISM, 

AND MOHAMMEDANISM. 

By REV. JOSEPH BELCHER, D.D. 

HONORARY MEMBER OF THE HISTORICAL SOCIETIES OF PENNSYLVANIA AND WISCONSIN, 

AUTHOR OF "WILLIAM CAREY, A BIOGRAPHY," ETC., ETC., AND "EDITOR 

OF THE COMPLETE WORKS OF ANDREW FULLER," 

"WORKS OF ROBERT HALL," ETC., ETC 



Standing on the broad foundation of universal Brotherhood, this 
volume gives the History and Present Condition of some Fifty dif- 
ferent Sects, pointing oat the peculiar doctrines of each, and giving 
all a fair, impartial, and reliable hearing. The Publications of each 
Denomination have been its authorities ; and where these have 
failed to be fully satisfactory, the information sought for has been 
gained by direct correspondence with some of its prominent mem- 
bers. Its Statistical Tables are very full and complete ; while the 
vast amount of information it contains, renders it invaluable to 
the student as a book of reference or research. A warm and genial 
spirit pervades the work throughout ; which, with its short and 
pithy memoirs and numerous illustrative anecdotes, will tend to 
ensure it an eager welcome to many a family circle. 

It is in one royal octavo volume of 1024 pages, printed in a clear 
and open type, is illustrated with nearly two hundred Engravings, 
and will be furnished in various styles of binding to suit every taste. 

On the following p£ge we have annexed a. few out of many 
notices received, all of wnich show a high appreciation of its 
merits. 

(i) 



A BOOK FOR EVERY FAMILY IN THE UNION. 



BELCHER'S RELIGIOUS DENOMINATIONS.— "It embodies a vast 
amount of information relative to the Origin, History, and Missionary Opera- 
tions of the different Religious Denominations in this Country, presented in a 
remarkably interesting and attractive manner. With respect to Binding, 
Paper, and Typography, the Book may be regarded as a model — a Beautiful, 
Substantial, and Attractive Volume." — Bev. John Bowling, D.D., Author of 
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is good. It contains an immense amount of very desirable information. The 
Author is an able and reliable Writer." — J. H. Mills, President Oxford Female 
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of Religious Denominations by Belcher, and regard it as containing a large 
amount of valuable information." — Rev. W. E. Booth, of the Methodist Church, 
Talbot County, Ga. 

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learning and marked ability, Dr. Belcher adds that precious quality, an 
abounding charity toward all his brethren of the human race, which effectu- 
ally prevents his indulging in a captious or acrimonious treatment of their 
respective Creeds. He allows the different Sects to expound their own Tenets 
and give their reasons for adopting them, and treats every man as a Friend 
and Brother." — North American. 



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of American Christianity that Professors of the several Denominations know 
too little of the faith and doings of those not within their own pale. Such a 
book as this serves to contribute much desirable information to meet that 
need." — Recorder and Register. 



BELCHER'S RELIGIOUS DENOMINATIONS.— "Judging from the 
work, it would be difficult to say what are the Religious Views of the Editor, 
so fairly, so dispassionately, so charitably, has he treated each and every Sect. 
It is plain that a noble love for Truth has animated the Writer." — City Rem. 

BELCHER'S RELIGIOUS DENOMINATIONS.— " In narrative and bio- 
graphical sketches, the Author ranks with the best writers of our Country. 
In the volume before \is, he gives well-written sketches of the Rise and 
Progress of the Denominations in this Country, a statement of their leading 
Tenets, and of their Numbers, Institutions, etc., relieved by many historical 
and personal incidents of a highly interesting Character." — Christian Observer. 



BELCHER'S RELIGIOUS DENOMINATIONS.— "So far as concerns 
Independence of Vision, there can be no question, as Dr. Belcher surveys 
each Sect with the same dispassionate impartiality. So far as concerns Style, 
it gives us much pleasure to say, that the work throughout is written with 
both precision and ease." — Episcojml Becorder. 



For single copies of the Book, or for terms to Agents, with other 
information, apply to or address, 



(ii) 



JOHN E. POTTER, Publisher, 

No. 617 Sansom Street, Philadelphia, Pa. 



A COMPANION TO THE FAMILY BIBLE. 



THE LIFE 

OP 

Our Lord and Saviour Jesus Christ, 

FROM 

His Incarnation to His Ascension into Heaven, 

By Rev. JOHN FLEETWOOD, D.D. 

TO WHICH ARE ADDED 

The Iiives of the Holy Apostles and Evangelists, a History of 
the Jews, and an Essay on the Evidences of the Bihlej 

THE WHOLE CAREFULLY REVISED 

By Rev. JOSEPH BELCHER, D.D. 



An examination of the earlier English and Scotch editions of this 
valuable and popular work, led to a knowledge of the fact that 
even the most expensive of the American reprints, as well as those 
most largely circulated, were exceedingly imperfect. Whole pages, 
and frequently many in succession, were found to be altogether 
omitted. Thus, for no other purpose than to reduce the number of 
pages in the volume, omissions were made of much that was impor- 
tant to meet the objections of infidelity, and to silence the enemies 
of Christ. This edition has been thoroughly revised by the late 
Rev. Dr. Belcher, and with the omitted passages restored, and the 
manifold mistakes of successive printers corrected, the Publisher 
has the pleasure of placing before the public the most correct edition 

in existence of this truly great work. 

(iii) 



A COMPANION TO THE FAMILY BIBLE. 



" The life of Jesus Christ is the philosophy of true religion. It 
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It is perfect excellence personified, that the mind of inan may grasp 
it and be changed into the same image. It is unlike all others — 
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perfect example to be imitated by all, it also affords to the sanctified 
scholar a lesson of untiring and unending interest. Does he admire 
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man. Is he enamored with the beauties of style ? Nowhere can he 
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— let him go with Jesus among those who had converted the Temple 
into a den of thieves; fortitude — let him follow the Man of Sorrows 
into the Garden, or stand by him on the Cross ; condescension — let 
him dine with him at the table of the Publican and witness his 
marked attention to little children ; or humility — let him stand by 
and behold him wash his disciples' feet. The inspired writers have 
given us his life in detached descriptions. Dr. Fleetwood has ar- 
ranged these into one harmonious whole, with such comments, ex- 
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ble to the scholar as to 'him who knows no more, but knows his 
Bible true.' If the attentive reader finds any occasion for regret, 
it will only be when the last page meets his eye." 

It is printed in a clear and open type, in one Royal Octavo Volume, 
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or with fine Steel Plates, engraved expressly for the work, from de- 
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binding at prices ranging from $2.00 to $5.00. 

Address all Orders to 

JOHN E. POTTER, Publisher, 

No. 617 Sansom Street, Philadelphia, Pa. 
(iv) 



THE PEOPLE'S GREAT BOOK. 



EVERYBODY'S LAWYER 



COUNSELLOR IN BUSINESS 

By FRANK CROSBY, Esq., 

MEMBER OF THE PHILADELPHIA BAR. 



IT TELLS YOU How to draw up Partnership Papers, Bonds and Mort- 
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also what constitutes Libel and Slander, and the law as 
to Marriage, Dower, the Wife's Right in Property, 
Divorce and Alimony. 

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as a guide for the business transactions of every-day life. Read the Notices 
of the Press on the following page. 

(?) 



THE PEOPLE'S GREAT BOOK. 



EVERYBODY'S LAWYER AND COUNSELLOR IN BUSINESS.— « It 
embodies in some 401) pages the facts of a whole law library, admirably con« 
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EVERYBODY'S LAWYER AND COUNSELLOR IN BUSINESS.— "The 
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EVERYBODY'S LAWYER AND COUNSELLOR IN BUSINESS.— " The 
sale, we are credibly informed, has reached over 10,000 copies a month, and 
the demand for it is rapidly increasing. No man or woman in the country, 
no matter what their business or profession, or sphere of life, ought to be with- 
out it." — Evening Reporter. 

It contains 384 pages, printed in a clear and open type, and will be 
sent by mail, neatly bound and postage paid, to Every Farmer, Every 
Mechanic, Every Man of Business, and Everybody in Every State, on 
receipt of §1.00 ; or in law style of binding, at $1.25. Address all 
orders to 

JOHN E. POTTER, Publisher, 

No. 617 Sansom Street, Philadelphia, Pa. 
(vi) 



WHAT EVERYBODY WANTS. 



THE FAMILY DOCTOR; 



CONTAINING 



SIMPLE REMEDIES, EASILY OBTAINED, FOR THE 
CURE OF DISEASE IN ALL FORMS. 



PROFESSOR HENRY S. TAYLOR, M.D 



IT TELLS YOU How to attend upon the sick and how to cook for them ; 
how to prepare Drinks, Poultices, etc., and how to guard 
against Infection from Contagous Diseases ; also of the 
Symptoms of Fever and Ague, and Bilious, Yellow, 
Typhus, Scarlet, and other Fevers, with the best and 
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toms of Croup, Cholera Infantum, Colic, Diarrhoea, 
Worms, Scalled Head, Ringworm, Chicken Pox, etc., with 
the best and simplest mode of treatment ; also of Teething, 
Convulsions, Vaccination, Whooping Cough, Measles, &c. 

IT TELLS YOU The Symptoms of Influenza, Consumption, Dyspepsia, 
Asthma, Dropsy, Gout, Rheumatism, Lumbago, Erysip- 
elas, Cholera Morbus, Malignant Cholera, Small Pox, 
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Liver, and gives the best and simplest remedies for their 
cure. 

IT TELLS YOU The symptoms of Pleurisy, Mumps, Neuralgia, Apoplexy, 
Paralysis, the various diseases of the Throat, Teeth, 
Ear and Eye, Epilepsy, Jaundice, Piles, Rupture, Dis- 
eases of the Heart, Hemorrhage, Venereal Diseases, and 
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for their cure. 

IT TELLS YOU The best and simplest treatment for Wounds, Broken Bones, 
and Dislocations, Sprains, Lockjaw, Fever Sores, White 
Swellings, Ulcers, Whitlows, Boils, Scurvy, Burns, and 
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The work is written in plain language, free from medical terms, so as to be 
easily understood, and is specially adapted to family and individual use. Al- 
ways at hand and ready to serve you, its simple recipes may soon save you 
much suffering and many times the cost of the book. Read the notices of 

the Press on the following page. 

(vii) 



WHAT EVEEYBODY WANTS. 



THE FAMILY DOCTOR.—" It will be a treasure of wisdom, health, and 
economy to every family that shall purchase and use it." — Philadelphia 
Family Magazine. 



THE FAMILY DOCTOR.— "A very excellent specimen of a very excellent 
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THE FAMILY DOCTOR.— " The reader will find many excellent pre- 
scriptions and sound admonitions in this volume." — Godey's Lady's Book. 



THE FAMILY DOCTOR.— "The general directions in the commencement 
of the volume respecting the preservation of health, are very judicious and 
valuable." — Presbyterian Banner. 



THE FAMILY DOCTOR.—" A very useful book, which can be studied 
with advantage." — Philadelphia Ledger. 



THE FAMILY DOCTOR.— "The descriptions of disease are clear, and 
not rendered difficult by technical terms. It will be useful in every family, 
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It contains 308 pages, printed in a clear and open type ; is illus- 
trated with appropriate engravings, and will lbe forwarded to any 
address, neatly bound, and postage paid, on receipt of $1.00. 

Address all orders to 

JOHN E. POTTKR, Publisher, 

No. 617 Sansom Street, Philadelphia, Pa, 

(viii) 



Should be Read by every Citizen of the United States 

NICARAGUA: 

PAST, PKESENT AND FUTURE; 

A DESCRIPTION OF ITS 

INHABITANTS, CUSTOMS, MINES, MINERALS, EARLY HISTORY, 

MODERN FILIBUSTERISM, PROPOSED INTER-OCEANIC 

CANAL, AND MANIFEST DESTINY. 

By PETER F. STOUT, Esq., 

Late United States Vice-Consul. 



With a New and Improved Map of tlie Country, appropriately- 
Colored. 



With a population sufficient to rouse her from the lethargy of the Past, with 
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baneful, leprous curse, prowls through her realm; and Religion, in the ab- 
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worthy of attentive perusal; and we feel satisfied that the time thus spent 
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Times. 

It is printed on beautiful paper, in a clear and open type, is neatly 
bound in clotb, and wifi be forwarded to any address, postage paid, 
on receipt of $1.25. Address all orders to 

JOHN E. POTTER, Publisher, 

No. 617 Sansom Street, Philadelphia, Pa. 



THE 

EARLY DAYS OF CALIFORNIA. 

EMBRACING 

WHAT I SAW AND HEARD THERE, 

WITH SCENES IN THE PACIFIC. 
By Col. J. T. FAENHAM. 

Illustrated 12mo. Cloth. Extra, $1.00 



AFFECTION'S GIFT 

FOB 

THE LOVING AND THE LOVED. 

POEMS. 

By JOHN COLE HAGEN. 

Illustrated 12mo. Cloth, Gilt, $1 00 



THE 

A TOKEN OF LOVE. 

Illustrated 12mo. Cloth, Extra, $1 00 

Address all Orders to 

JOHN E. POTTER, Publisher, 
AUG 3 9 19^7 X<K G1T Sansom Street, Philadelphia, Pa. 



